These Vietnamese-style rolls, from David Tanis, take a tiny bit of dexterity but fall under the kind of easier project cooking that yields big personal triumphs. Once you get the hang of tucking and rolling the rice-paper wrapper, the rest is simple. But, “if, despite your best efforts, your lobster rolls become unruly and fall apart, don’t despair,” he wrote back in 2013. “Just plop the perfectly good remains on a plate, drizzle with the dipping sauce and call it a rice noodle salad.”
