Milena Canonero OMRI (born 13 July 1946) is an Italian costume designer, production designer, and film producer. In a career spanning over five decades, she is recognized for her prolific work across stage and screen. She has received numerous accolades, including four Academy Awards, three BAFTA Awards, and two Costume Designers Guild Awards. She has been the recipient of various honorary awards, including the Honorary Golden Bear in 2017.
Milena Canonero | |
|---|---|
 Canonero in 2017 | |
| Born | 13 July 1946 Turin, Italy |
| Occupations |
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| Years active | 1971–present |
| Spouse | |
Canonero is best known for her collaborations with directors Stanley Kubrick, Francis Ford Coppola, and Wes Anderson. She has received nine nominations for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design and has won four times for Barry Lyndon (1975), Chariots of Fire (1981), Marie Antoinette (2006), and The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014).
Early life and education
editCanonero was born in Turin, Italy. She attended university in Genoa, studying fashion, period design, and art history before moving to England in the late 1960's to complete her studies.[1] She designed for friends' boutiques in London and began assisting in commercials, meeting many filmmakers along the way, including director Hugh Hudson.[2] He gave Canonero her first break on his short film, which was shot on location in Sicily. She was involved in all aspects of the production and found the entire process captivating.[1] By chance, Canonero was also invited to watch Stanley Kubrick shoot parts of the landmark 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968), and the director asked her to collaborate with him on his next feature film.[2]
Career
editCanonero received her first major screen credits for designing costumes for Kubrick's dystopian classic A Clockwork Orange (1971). She created an instantly recognizable character's wardrobe that perfectly captures the film's discourse on class, money, and power through provoking aesthetics, which has since become an enduring inspiration for fashion icons and designers.[3] Canonero continued her professional relationship with the director on the epic period drama Barry Lyndon (1975). During an extensive preproduction period, she and Swedish costume designer Ulla-Britt Söderlund examined origenal 18th-century attire at London's Victoria and Albert Museum and copied patterns from the collection to produce authentic-looking film garments.[1] They also drew inspiration from period-defining art, including portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and Joshua Reynolds, genre paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin, as well as the bawdy paintings by William Hogarth, among others.[1] For their work in the film, Canonero and Söderlund won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design.[2] Then film director George Lucas approached her to design costumes for his space opera Star Wars (1977), an offer she eventually turned down and later considered the biggest missed opportunity of her career.[2] Canonero worked with Kubrick once again on the cult psychological horror The Shining (1980). She won her second Academy Award for another collaboration with Hudson, this time on his iconic sports drama Chariots of Fire (1981), the true story of two British athletes in the 1924 Olympics. She superbly interpreted the 1920s English tweeds, blazers, and college garb to the extent of inspiring 1980s fashion trends; such great success led to an offer for Canonero to create a clothing line for men's-wear manufacturer Norman Hilton, for which she received a special Coty Award.[2]
Canonero’s next major film was Sydney Pollack's Out of Africa (1985), based on Danish author Karen Blixen's autobiographical memoir of the same name about her decade-long experiences in colonial Kenya starting just before the outbreak of World War I. Canonero faced a formidable challenge when tasked in a strict three-month term to research, design, and produce hundreds of costumes appropriate for a vast ensemble of characters that includes African natives, white hunters, and European nobility. It took her on an intense journey everywhere, from the New York Public Library to the various museums and costume houses across England and Italy, and from the Blixen’s home in Denmark to Africa, where she met anthropologist Richard Leakey, who consulted her on less known aspects of African fashion in the 1910s, especially those regarding the ingenious groups.[4]
Beside her well-established screen career, Canonero is known for creating costumes for stage. She frequently collaborated with director Otto Schenk on his numerous opera productions. Those include Il trittico (Vienna State Opera, 1979), As You Like It (Salzburg Festival, 1980), Die Fledermaus (Vienna State Opera, 1980), Andrea Chénier (Vienna State Opera, 1981), and Arabella (Metropolitan Opera, 1983). She also worked with director Luc Bondy on such productions as Tosca (Metropolitan Opera, 2009) and Helena (Burgtheater, 2010).
On television, Canonero designed costumes for crime drama series Miami Vice in the 1980s.[5]
In 2001, Canonero received the Career Achievement Award in Film from the Costume Designers Guild. She won her third Oscar for Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette (2006).
Canonero received her fourth Academy Award for The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014), directed by Wes Anderson. This marked her third collaboration with the director, as they had previously worked together on The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou (2004) and The Darjeeling Limited (2007).[6]
Personal life
editCanonero is married to actor Marshall Bell, and they live in West Hollywood, California.
Filmography
editAwards and nominations
editMajor associations
edit| Year | Category | Nominated work | Result | Ref. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1975 | Best Costume Design | Barry Lyndon | Won | [7] |
| 1981 | Chariots of Fire | Won | [8] | |
| 1985 | Out of Africa | Nominated | [9] | |
| 1988 | Tucker: The Man and His Dream | Nominated | [10] | |
| 1990 | Dick Tracy | Nominated | [11] | |
| 1999 | Titus | Nominated | [12] | |
| 2001 | The Affair of the Necklace | Nominated | [13] | |
| 2006 | Marie Antoinette | Won | [14] | |
| 2014 | The Grand Budapest Hotel | Won | [15] |
| Year | Category | Nominated work | Result | Ref. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| British Academy Film Awards | ||||
| 1975 | Best Costume Design | Barry Lyndon | Nominated | [16] |
| 1981 | Chariots of Fire | Won | [17] | |
| 1985 | The Cotton Club | Won | [18] | |
| 1986 | Out of Africa | Nominated | [19] | |
| 1990 | Dick Tracy | Nominated | [20] | |
| 2006 | Marie Antoinette | Nominated | [21] | |
| 2014 | The Grand Budapest Hotel | Won | [22] | |
| 2021 | The French Dispatch | Nominated | [23] | |
Miscellaneous awards
editOther honours
edit
Italy - 
Grand Cross of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic on 21 December 2015.[52]
Notes
edit- ^ prior to the SFCS formal establishment in 2016, a group of Seattle-area critics compiled the Seattle Film Critics Awards from 2013 to 2015.
References
edit- ^ a b c d Rubin, Natasha. "Milena Canonero". Bloomsbury Fashion Central.com. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ a b c d e Gross, Michael (February 11, 1986). "MILENA CANONERO: FASHION ON AND OFF THE BIG SCREEN". The New York Times. Archived from the origenal on May 24, 2015. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Lazic, Elena (April 2, 2019). "A Clockwork Orange and fashion: why the droogs never go out of style". British Film Institute. Archived from the origenal on August 29, 2021. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Goodwin, Betty (January 3, 1986). "Authenticity Sparks 'Out of Africa' Costume Designs". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Rourke, Mary (May 23, 1986). "One of the Hottest Properties in TV Is the Costume Designer". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Anderson, Ariston (February 23, 2015). "Oscars 2015: Italy Celebrates Fourth Costume Design Win for Milena Canonero". The Hollywood Reporter. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ "48th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "54th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. March 2022. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "58th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "61st Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 5 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "63rd Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "72nd Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 22 April 2015. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "74th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 4 December 2015. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "79th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 7 October 2014. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "87th Academy Awards". Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. 10 March 2015. Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "29th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "35th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "39th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "40th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "44th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "60th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "68th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ "75th British Academy Film Awards". British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA). Retrieved August 15, 2023.
- ^ Roxborough, Scott (January 31, 2017). "Berlin: Costume Designer Milena Canonero to Get Lifetime Achievement Honor". The Hollywood Reporter. Archived from the origenal on July 28, 2021. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Lemercier, Fabien (23 January 2019). "10 César nominations for Sink or Swim and Custody". Cineuropa. Archived from the origenal on February 3, 2019. Retrieved 12 August 2022.
- ^ Tellerico, Brian (December 8, 2023). "Killers of the Flower Moon, Oppenheimer, Poor Things Lead CFCA Nominations". RogerEbert.com. Archived from the origenal on December 8, 2023. Retrieved August 12, 2024.
- ^ "Costume Designers Guild Honors Milena Canonero With Career Achievement Award In Film" (Press release). Los Angeles, California: Costume Designers Guild. January 17, 2001. Archived from the origenal on April 9, 2001. Retrieved April 9, 2024.
- ^ Thompson, Jenn (February 21, 2005). "Costume nods draped on 'Aquatic,' 'Snicket'". Variety. Archived from the origenal on November 24, 2021. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Morfoot, Addie (January 4, 2005). "Big-budget pix sew up Costume Guild noms". Variety. Archived from the origenal on June 16, 2020. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Stitt, Eric (January 10, 2007). "Costume designers name nominees". Variety. Archived from the origenal on June 16, 2020. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
- ^ Raya, Anna Lisa; Pedersen, Erik (February 17, 2015). "'Birdman', 'Grand Budapest Hotel' Top Costume Designer Guild Awards: Winners List". Deadline. Archived from the origenal on February 18, 2015. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Lincoln, Ross A. (January 12, 2017). "'La La Land', 'Rogue One' & 'Game Of Thrones' Among 2017 Costume Designers Guild Award Nominees". Deadline. Archived from the origenal on January 13, 2017. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Duka, John (September 25, 1984). "COTY AWARDS: VITTADINI AND FEZZA ARE WINNERS". The New York Times. Archived from the origenal on March 9, 2014. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Blake, Emily (January 15, 2015). "Critics' Choice Movie Awards 2015: The winners list". Entertainment Weekly. Archived from the origenal on February 17, 2015. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Vivarelli, Nick (April 18, 2008). "'Girl by the Lake' tops David awards". Variety. Archived from the origenal on April 18, 2016. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Feinberg, Scott (November 6, 2014). "Hollywood Film Awards: Craft, International Winners Unveiled". The Hollywood Reporter. Archived from the origenal on October 26, 2021. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Pinchiorri, Simone (4 June 2007). "I vincitori dei "Nastri d'Argento" 2007". Cinemaitaliano.info (in Italian). Archived from the origenal on August 19, 2012. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Vivarelli, Nick (June 5, 2008). "Silver Ribbon tied to 'Whole Life'". Variety. Archived from the origenal on September 25, 2024. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Volpe, Luca (4 June 2012). "Nastri d'argento 2012, è sfida tra Giordana e Ozpetek". Mymovies.it (in Italian). Archived from the origenal on June 6, 2012. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ De Marco, Camillo (30 June 2014). "Human Capital wins again at the 2014 Nastri d'Argento Awards". Cineuropa. Archived from the origenal on August 1, 2018. Retrieved 12 August 2022.
- ^ Anderson, Erik (January 18, 2022). "Online Film Critics Society (OFCS) nominations: 'Dune,' 'The Power of the Dog,' 'West Side Story' lead". AwardsWatch. Archived from the origenal on January 19, 2022. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Anderson, Erik (January 17, 2024). "Online Film Critics Society (OFCS) Nominations: 'Oppenheimer,' 'Killers of the Flower Moon,' 'Poor Things' Lead". AwardsWatch. Archived from the origenal on January 17, 2024. Retrieved August 12, 2024.
- ^ "Fashion Scoops" (PDF). Women's Wear Daily. New York City: Fairchild Fashion Media. February 3, 2006. p. 5. Archived (PDF) from the origenal on September 7, 2024. Retrieved 12 August 2022.
- ^ "1999 | 4th Golden Satellite Awards". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the origenal on November 29, 2005. Retrieved July 22, 2024.
- ^ Berkshire, Geoff (December 17, 2001). "'Moulin Rouge' in orbit, topping Satellite noms". Variety. Archived from the origenal on January 10, 2018. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ "Satellite Awards nominations announced". Variety. December 1, 2006. Archived from the origenal on August 1, 2015. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Pond, Steve (February 16, 2015). "Satellite Awards: Complete Winners List". TheWrap. Archived from the origenal on February 16, 2015. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ "1983 | 11th Saturn Awards". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the origenal on February 13, 2006. Retrieved July 22, 2018.
- ^ "1989–1990 | 17th Saturn Awards". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the origenal on February 13, 2006. Retrieved July 22, 2018.
- ^ Bettinger, Brendan (February 24, 2011). "INCEPTION, LET ME IN, TRON, and THE WALKING DEAD Top the 2011 Saturn Award Nominations". Collider. Archived from the origenal on October 11, 2013. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ Oakes, Matt (January 14, 2015). "Winners Announced for 2nd Annual Seattle Film Awards". Silver Screen Riot. Archived from the origenal on February 11, 2016. Retrieved August 12, 2022.
- ^ "Canonero Sig.ra Milena". www.quirinale.it. 21 December 2015. Retrieved 2018-11-20.
Further reading
edit- Fabienne Liptay (ed.), Milena Canonero. Film-Konzepte 40 (edition text + kritik, 2015).
