Burton revisited some of her own favorite moments in her mentor's saga w/ a lightness: a Victorian jacket reconfigured as a white cotton shirtdress; proportions were lifted w/ a higher waist. Evening dresses fell away beautifully from the torso - one looked like blood-drenched chiffon—evoked a vision of Isabelle Adjani in La Reine Margot, one of McQueen's favorite movies. The tension between hardness/fragility that characterized McQueen's work was sustained in defined shoulders.