Historical Fashion: Victorian - Early Bustle (1865-1880)

Men's dress developed soberly along previously established lines. The cutaway, frock, and sack coats varied little from previous styles. A slim, vertical silhouette with less padding in the chest and a natural fit in the waist was fashionable. An ever-increasing interest in sports required development of new styles for both participants and spectators. The backward thrust of women's skirts in the late Crinoline period led to the development of the bustle skirt. When viewed from the front, the silhouette was narrow and vertical (especially in the 1880s). In profile, however, the lower half of the figure extended backward dramatically. Heavy drapery and carefully controlled ruffled adorned most versions of the bustle dress, and trains were common. 18th-C. details enjoyed a revival. Wool fabrics dominated menswear, although cotton, linen, and some silk were also used, especially for warmer temperatures or sporting wear. Women's fashions took advantage of a wide variety of fabrics, most of them with substantial heft in order to support and maintain the complicated tailoring and draping.
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Dress | American | The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Plaid wool dress (back), American, 1873-76.
Dámské společenské šaty
Silk and cotton dress, Czech, c 1870s. Museum of Decorative Arts, Prague.
Dress -
Pale blue-green silk taffeta, damask, and sateen dress with cuirasse-style bodice and chenille fringe trim, ca. 1870-1880.
Prints
Three-piece ensemble (bodice, skirt, and sleeveless jacket) of silk taffeta and velvet with fringe trim (front), 1868-70.
Prints
Three-piece ensemble (bodice, skirt, and sleeveless jacket) of silk taffeta and velvet with fringe trim (back), 1868-70.
Online Collections | Kent State University Museum
Dark and light purple silk taffeta day dress (front), American, 1868-1872.
Formal court mourning dress of Empress Elisabeth of Austria, made by Fanni Scheiner, dated after 1877. Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien / Wagenburg und Monturdepot. Photos: (Top): Joshua Greene; (Bottom): Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien. Bodice of black satin trimmed with Chantilly lace and jet bead embroidery, black satin skirt with bustle and train, black lace bonnet and black velvet veil-mask edged with black lace.
Fashion Forward, 3 siècles de mode (1715-2016)
Cashmere dolman-mantle with silk fringe, braid, and bead trim, 1870-1890.
Abito da casa 8
Dress of purple silk taffeta and midnight blue silk velvet, 1877. (Possibly a remodel pieced together from an earlier dress or two?)
In Pretty Finery - 1878-1880, Italy Silk taffeta walking dress by Sartoria Madame Grazini Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti | Facebook
Pink silk taffeta walking dress, by Sartoria Madamn Granzini, Italian, 1878-1880. Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti.