Turkey galantine — a stuffed, boiled, and gelatinized cold confection — was a particular favorite for the upper classes in Victorian England.

Later, at a culinary conference, I watched a demonstration by the French chef Jacques Pépin and realized that my lola was making galantine.

Cold salmon and mayonnaise, cutlets in aspic, galantine of chicken soufflé.

During the siege of Leningrad the Soviet authorities found 2,000 tonnes of mutton guts which they turned into galantine to feed the starving citizens.

My sampling of three entrees included an excellent Portobello mushroom mousse, a rich shrimp and mascarpone grits, and a bland Long Island duck & pistachio galantine.