And in the start of the Rimsky-Korsakov on Thursday — this movement marked “maestoso,” or majestically — the huge brass statements burst out with saber-rattling strength but little majesty.

Kogan certainly made an excitingly cogent case for it, pressing the tempos forward urgently, letting it get wild and woolly in the right convulsive spots, with all heroic flags waving in the final Maestoso section.

But rather than the heavy-handed monumentality favored by so many accounts several decades ago — which exaggerate the “majestic” in the composer’s directive “un poco maestoso” — Morlot elicited a revelatory transparency of texture in the first movement.

In fact, Ms. Ercolani and Mr. Maestoso, who host three to four meals a week through Feastly, are considering making it their full-time job.

There is a sudden pause, and in the succeeding maestoso episode the second voice is heard—Nature's Hymn: Der pr�cht'ge Ocean ...