One item on the menu, the hamburger steak plate, has been served for as long as Mr. Osborn can remember.

In 1887 a New York lodging house advertised “a bowl of coffee, hamburger steak and bread” for 10 cents.

The food arrives, and it is not pasta and veal pounded thin, but creamed chicken over biscuits, and hamburger steak and gravy with peas and rolls and mashed potatoes.

He loved Earl’s hamburger steak, the Korean chicken, the teriyaki beef.

Beyond the the fried chicken, Fiorellas’ familiar menu has things like fried oyster and shrimp, a hamburger steak, veal parmesan, liver with onions and meatballs in a candy-sweet red sauce.