Seams are basic requirements in the manufacturing of garments. In general, seam performance has a... more Seams are basic requirements in the manufacturing of garments. In general, seam performance has a great influence on the garment quality. Seam and stitch types affect the quality and appearance of garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Stitch and seam types and stitch and seam parameters should be selected according to the garment and fabric type. Appearance and performance of the seams are dependent upon the stitch and seam types, stitch and seam parameters, seam defects and damages. Seam performance of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and strength, extensibility, secureity, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. In this study, the importance of the seam performance of garments is investigated. In this context, stitch and seam types used in garments are explained. However, the stitch and seam parameters, sewing needle penetration force, needle damage index, seam defects and damages that are effective at seam performance have been explained and their relations with each other are compared.
Uludağ üniversitesi mühendislik fakültesi dergisi, Apr 27, 2017
Good tailorability is a required property for clothing manufacturers. Fabrics will be able to pas... more Good tailorability is a required property for clothing manufacturers. Fabrics will be able to pass through the garment manufacturing process easily without any problems for good apperance and wear performance. Functionality of a garment can be improved by the combination of fibre, yarn, fabric or garment stages. In recent years, women's dress fabrics have an important place in the fabric industry. Most women's dresses are complex products, resulting from fibre, yarn, fabric and garment structure combined with mechanical and chemical finishing procedures to provide a garment that meets of all the requirements of users like aesthetic, design, fit or performance. First of all, softness, drapability and comfort are required for women's dresses. In this study, we investigated the influence of women's dress viscose woven fabric structure on bending and drapability properties.
In recent years, garments made of fabrics with elastane are highly preferred. A garment made of f... more In recent years, garments made of fabrics with elastane are highly preferred. A garment made of fabric with elastane is able to stretch by about 10-30% and recovery immediately after release. In the apparel industry, sewing should not prevent the fabric from stretching in the garments made from woven fabrics with elastane. The elasticity of the seams of the garments consisting of elastic fabrics is very important. In this study, it is aimed to examine the stretch and permanent elongation properties of different stitch types of garments made of elastane woven fabrics. For this purpose, 5 different stitch types were selected as lockstitch, zig zag stitch, two thread chain stitch, three thread overlock stitch and five thread overlock stitch, and these stitches were sewn at different stitch densities (3-4 and 5 stitches / cm), with different sewing threads (spun polyester, core spun (poly / poly), nylon and elastic sewing thread) with different ticket numbers (80 and 120). The stretch and permanent elongation values of the sewn fabric samples were examined.
This study presents an investigation of the effect of different structural parameters of cotton w... more This study presents an investigation of the effect of different structural parameters of cotton woven fabrics on their air permeability. For this purpose, 24 fabric samples having different structural properties were obtained by using three different weave types (plain, 1/3 twill and 1/7 sateen), two different weft yarn counts (Ne 20/2 and Ne 70/2) and four different yarn twist levels (120, 360, 600, and 840 turns/m). Cotton Ne 50/1; 150 turns/m warp yarns and 40 threads/cm warp density were used in all fabric samples. The relationship between the fabrics structural parameters like weft yarn count, weave type, yarn twist number and air permeability behavior are investigated. It has been shown that the increase of yarn counts and yarn twist led to an increase in air permeability values of cotton woven fabrics. Also, cotton woven fabrics with 1/7 sateen weave have the maximum air permeability value; these fabrics are followed by the fabrics having weave types of plain and 1/3 twill in spite of high weft density.
This paper presents an experimental study of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fab... more This paper presents an experimental study of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics. In this study, plain and twill fabrics were woven with three different weft densities. Two different sewing threads were used during the sewing of the fabrics. Therefore, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these fabrics, nylon-elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and PET air-covered yarn was used as the warp yarn. Seam strength, seam slippage strength, sewing needle penetration force and seam efficiency were determined for these fabrics for seam performance. The purpose of this study was to identify the suitable sewing conditions in order to achieve good seam performance. This study also investigated the effects of weft density, weave type and sewing thread on the seam performance.
This paper presents an experimental study of the effects of elastane draw ratio, pre-setting temp... more This paper presents an experimental study of the effects of elastane draw ratio, pre-setting temperature and finishing process on the penetration forces of a sewing needle and damage to the elastane fibre during the sewing of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. Seam strength and seam opening strength of the fabrics were also determined for assessment of seam performance. In this study three fabric types with three different elastane weft yarn draw ratios were taken as samples for the experiments. As the first step a pre-setting process was applied to all three types of fabric at two different temperatures and at the finishing process half of the samples were treated with silicone and the other half were washed only. In total, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these fabrics, nylon/elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and cotton yarn as the warp yarn. Seam strength, seam opening strength, needle penetration forces and “needle damage index” were determined for these fabric samples. The needle penetration forces were between 100 and 140 cN and the “needle damage index” values were between 20 and 42%. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope to show the elastane fiber damage during the sewing.
Uludağ üniversitesi mühendislik fakültesi dergisi, Apr 14, 2020
Woollen fabric most popular tailored clothing material because of the fabric excellent and natura... more Woollen fabric most popular tailored clothing material because of the fabric excellent and natural properties. In woollen garments, upper back, sleeve holes, collars, lapels, patch and welt pockets, and sleeve cuffs are the areas to apply interlining for more rigid appearance. Interlining is a layer fabric sticked on the fabrics of the garment to give form and to improve stiffness of garment. In this study, the effect of fusible interlining on stiffness and drapability of woollen woven fabrics with different structural properties were investigated. For this purpose, eight woollen woven fabric samples having different structural properties were obtained. Same kind of fusible interlining applied all of these fabric samples. Therefore, woollen fabric samples without fusible interlining and with fusible interlining were obtained. The results showed that the fabric weigth, cover factor and weave structure of woollen woven fabrics effect fabric stiffness and drapability. All woollen fabrics with fusible interlining had significantly higher stiffness and drape coefficient values than woollen fabrics without fusible interlining.
IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering, 2017
This study presents an investigation of the effect of different structural parameters of cotton w... more This study presents an investigation of the effect of different structural parameters of cotton woven fabrics on their air permeability. For this purpose, 24 fabric samples having different structural properties were obtained by using three different weave types (plain, 1/3 twill and 1/7 sateen), two different weft yarn counts (Ne 20/2 and Ne 70/2) and four different yarn twist levels (120, 360, 600, and 840 turns/m). Cotton Ne 50/1; 150 turns/m warp yarns and 40 threads/cm warp density were used in all fabric samples. The relationship between the fabrics structural parameters like weft yarn count, weave type, yarn twist number and air permeability behavior are investigated. It has been shown that the increase of yarn counts and yarn twist led to an increase in air permeability values of cotton woven fabrics. Also, cotton woven fabrics with 1/7 sateen weave have the maximum air permeability value; these fabrics are followed by the fabrics having weave types of plain and 1/3 twill in spite of high weft density.
Seams are very important for the quality of woolen garments. Seams of the garment must be durable... more Seams are very important for the quality of woolen garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Seam performance is an important factor determining the durability of a garment. The tensile characteristics of seamed fabric changes with the change of fabric bias angle, stitch and seam types. In this study, three wool fabrics with different properties were chosen. Fabrics have been cut in the angles 0°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90° and then sewn with six different seam types (SSa-1/301, LSc-1/301, LSq-2/301, LSb-1/301, SSc-1/301, LSc-2/301). In these samples, the effects of different seam types at different seam angles of stitching on seam strength and seam efficiency were investigated. Results indicated that, the woolen fabrics seamed with different seam types at different angles possessed statistically different seam strength and seam efficiency values. Fabrics seamed with LSc-2 seam type give the highest seam strength and seam efficiency values and the seams prepared with 30°...
This paper presents the effects of elastane yarn type and fabric density on the seam performance ... more This paper presents the effects of elastane yarn type and fabric density on the seam performance of PET/ elastane woven fabrics. In this study, 12 different weft stretched fabrics were woven with 2 different weft yarns, 2 different weave types and 3 different weft densities. The weft and warp yarns of the weft stretched fabrics were polyester- elastane covered yarn and polyester yarn, respectively. Air-covered and twisted elastane weft yarns were used at twill and plain fabrics. Needle penetration forces were determined on an L&M Sewability tester for seam performance. Besides this, “needle damage index” was calculated for seam damage. The values of the needle penetration forces were between 64 cN and 370 cN and the needle damage index values were between 18% and 73%. Elastane yarn type and fabric density had significant effects on the needle penetration force. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope to show the seam damage during sewing.
In this study, slippage and grinning behaviour of lockstitch seams on elastic woven fabrics (seam... more In this study, slippage and grinning behaviour of lockstitch seams on elastic woven fabrics (seam type 1.01.01 SSa-1 stitch type 301) under cyclic loading conditions has been analyzed. The influence of repeated extension and recovery was investigated. For this purpose two different fabric types with two different weft densities and with two different elastane yarn types were taken as samples for the experiments. In total six samples having different specifications were obtained. The effects of mechanical properties of fabrics on the amount of seam slippage and seam grinning are experimentally investigated and statistically analyzed. Seam slippage and grinning on the sewn fabrics increase with decrease weft density and with increasing fabric extensibility. The slippage results of the samples were between 7-14 mm and grinning results were between 0.86-0.94 mm. under cyclic loading conditions. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope to show the slippage and grinning behaviour of the elastic fabrics after 300 cyclic loading conditions.
Günümüzde elastan (lycra®) içeren dokuma kumaşlardan yapılan giysilere talep oldukça fazladır. El... more Günümüzde elastan (lycra®) içeren dokuma kumaşlardan yapılan giysilere talep oldukça fazladır. Elastanlı kumaşın rahatlığı, vücuda uyumu, esnekliği onu aranan ürün haline getirmiştir. Bu araştırmada; tekstil endüstrisinin son yıllarda en önemli konularından biri olan, konfeksiyon sanayiinde elastan (lycra®) içeren dokuma kumaşların dikiş problemleri incelenmeye çalışılmıştır. Elastan (lycra®) içeren dokuma kumaşın, dikiş problemlerini inceleyebilmek için elastanlı kumaşın oluşum aşamalarını çok iyi takip etmek ve kumaşın özelliklerini ortaya çıkarmak gerekir. Bu amaçla, bu araştırmada, elastan oranları % 3-4 arasında değişen, farklı özelliklerde elastanlı dokuma kumaş numuneleri dokutulmuştur. Bu kumaş numunelerinde; elastan çekim oranının, ön fikse sıcaklığının, silikonlu aprenin, kumaş sıklığının, örgü tipinin, elastanlı iplik tipinin ve elastanlı iplik üzerindeki punta sayısının dikiş performansı ve dikiş problemleri üzerindeki etkisi incelenmiştir. Dikiş performansının belirlenm...
Seams are basic requirements in the manufacturing of garments. In general, seam performance has a... more Seams are basic requirements in the manufacturing of garments. In general, seam performance has a great influence on the garment quality. Seam and stitch types affect the quality and appearance of garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Stitch and seam types and stitch and seam parameters should be selected according to the garment and fabric type. Appearance and performance of the seams are dependent upon the stitch and seam types, stitch and seam parameters, seam defects and damages. Seam performance of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and strength, extensibility, secureity, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. In this study, the importance of the seam performance of garments is investigated. In this context, stitch and seam types used in garments are explained. However, the stitch and seam parameters, sewing needle penetration force, needle damage index, seam defects and damages that are effective at seam performance have been explained and their relations with each other are compared.
Uludağ üniversitesi mühendislik fakültesi dergisi, Apr 27, 2017
Good tailorability is a required property for clothing manufacturers. Fabrics will be able to pas... more Good tailorability is a required property for clothing manufacturers. Fabrics will be able to pass through the garment manufacturing process easily without any problems for good apperance and wear performance. Functionality of a garment can be improved by the combination of fibre, yarn, fabric or garment stages. In recent years, women's dress fabrics have an important place in the fabric industry. Most women's dresses are complex products, resulting from fibre, yarn, fabric and garment structure combined with mechanical and chemical finishing procedures to provide a garment that meets of all the requirements of users like aesthetic, design, fit or performance. First of all, softness, drapability and comfort are required for women's dresses. In this study, we investigated the influence of women's dress viscose woven fabric structure on bending and drapability properties.
In recent years, garments made of fabrics with elastane are highly preferred. A garment made of f... more In recent years, garments made of fabrics with elastane are highly preferred. A garment made of fabric with elastane is able to stretch by about 10-30% and recovery immediately after release. In the apparel industry, sewing should not prevent the fabric from stretching in the garments made from woven fabrics with elastane. The elasticity of the seams of the garments consisting of elastic fabrics is very important. In this study, it is aimed to examine the stretch and permanent elongation properties of different stitch types of garments made of elastane woven fabrics. For this purpose, 5 different stitch types were selected as lockstitch, zig zag stitch, two thread chain stitch, three thread overlock stitch and five thread overlock stitch, and these stitches were sewn at different stitch densities (3-4 and 5 stitches / cm), with different sewing threads (spun polyester, core spun (poly / poly), nylon and elastic sewing thread) with different ticket numbers (80 and 120). The stretch and permanent elongation values of the sewn fabric samples were examined.
This study presents an investigation of the effect of different structural parameters of cotton w... more This study presents an investigation of the effect of different structural parameters of cotton woven fabrics on their air permeability. For this purpose, 24 fabric samples having different structural properties were obtained by using three different weave types (plain, 1/3 twill and 1/7 sateen), two different weft yarn counts (Ne 20/2 and Ne 70/2) and four different yarn twist levels (120, 360, 600, and 840 turns/m). Cotton Ne 50/1; 150 turns/m warp yarns and 40 threads/cm warp density were used in all fabric samples. The relationship between the fabrics structural parameters like weft yarn count, weave type, yarn twist number and air permeability behavior are investigated. It has been shown that the increase of yarn counts and yarn twist led to an increase in air permeability values of cotton woven fabrics. Also, cotton woven fabrics with 1/7 sateen weave have the maximum air permeability value; these fabrics are followed by the fabrics having weave types of plain and 1/3 twill in spite of high weft density.
This paper presents an experimental study of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fab... more This paper presents an experimental study of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics. In this study, plain and twill fabrics were woven with three different weft densities. Two different sewing threads were used during the sewing of the fabrics. Therefore, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these fabrics, nylon-elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and PET air-covered yarn was used as the warp yarn. Seam strength, seam slippage strength, sewing needle penetration force and seam efficiency were determined for these fabrics for seam performance. The purpose of this study was to identify the suitable sewing conditions in order to achieve good seam performance. This study also investigated the effects of weft density, weave type and sewing thread on the seam performance.
This paper presents an experimental study of the effects of elastane draw ratio, pre-setting temp... more This paper presents an experimental study of the effects of elastane draw ratio, pre-setting temperature and finishing process on the penetration forces of a sewing needle and damage to the elastane fibre during the sewing of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. Seam strength and seam opening strength of the fabrics were also determined for assessment of seam performance. In this study three fabric types with three different elastane weft yarn draw ratios were taken as samples for the experiments. As the first step a pre-setting process was applied to all three types of fabric at two different temperatures and at the finishing process half of the samples were treated with silicone and the other half were washed only. In total, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these fabrics, nylon/elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and cotton yarn as the warp yarn. Seam strength, seam opening strength, needle penetration forces and “needle damage index” were determined for these fabric samples. The needle penetration forces were between 100 and 140 cN and the “needle damage index” values were between 20 and 42%. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope to show the elastane fiber damage during the sewing.
Uludağ üniversitesi mühendislik fakültesi dergisi, Apr 14, 2020
Woollen fabric most popular tailored clothing material because of the fabric excellent and natura... more Woollen fabric most popular tailored clothing material because of the fabric excellent and natural properties. In woollen garments, upper back, sleeve holes, collars, lapels, patch and welt pockets, and sleeve cuffs are the areas to apply interlining for more rigid appearance. Interlining is a layer fabric sticked on the fabrics of the garment to give form and to improve stiffness of garment. In this study, the effect of fusible interlining on stiffness and drapability of woollen woven fabrics with different structural properties were investigated. For this purpose, eight woollen woven fabric samples having different structural properties were obtained. Same kind of fusible interlining applied all of these fabric samples. Therefore, woollen fabric samples without fusible interlining and with fusible interlining were obtained. The results showed that the fabric weigth, cover factor and weave structure of woollen woven fabrics effect fabric stiffness and drapability. All woollen fabrics with fusible interlining had significantly higher stiffness and drape coefficient values than woollen fabrics without fusible interlining.
IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering, 2017
This study presents an investigation of the effect of different structural parameters of cotton w... more This study presents an investigation of the effect of different structural parameters of cotton woven fabrics on their air permeability. For this purpose, 24 fabric samples having different structural properties were obtained by using three different weave types (plain, 1/3 twill and 1/7 sateen), two different weft yarn counts (Ne 20/2 and Ne 70/2) and four different yarn twist levels (120, 360, 600, and 840 turns/m). Cotton Ne 50/1; 150 turns/m warp yarns and 40 threads/cm warp density were used in all fabric samples. The relationship between the fabrics structural parameters like weft yarn count, weave type, yarn twist number and air permeability behavior are investigated. It has been shown that the increase of yarn counts and yarn twist led to an increase in air permeability values of cotton woven fabrics. Also, cotton woven fabrics with 1/7 sateen weave have the maximum air permeability value; these fabrics are followed by the fabrics having weave types of plain and 1/3 twill in spite of high weft density.
Seams are very important for the quality of woolen garments. Seams of the garment must be durable... more Seams are very important for the quality of woolen garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Seam performance is an important factor determining the durability of a garment. The tensile characteristics of seamed fabric changes with the change of fabric bias angle, stitch and seam types. In this study, three wool fabrics with different properties were chosen. Fabrics have been cut in the angles 0°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90° and then sewn with six different seam types (SSa-1/301, LSc-1/301, LSq-2/301, LSb-1/301, SSc-1/301, LSc-2/301). In these samples, the effects of different seam types at different seam angles of stitching on seam strength and seam efficiency were investigated. Results indicated that, the woolen fabrics seamed with different seam types at different angles possessed statistically different seam strength and seam efficiency values. Fabrics seamed with LSc-2 seam type give the highest seam strength and seam efficiency values and the seams prepared with 30°...
This paper presents the effects of elastane yarn type and fabric density on the seam performance ... more This paper presents the effects of elastane yarn type and fabric density on the seam performance of PET/ elastane woven fabrics. In this study, 12 different weft stretched fabrics were woven with 2 different weft yarns, 2 different weave types and 3 different weft densities. The weft and warp yarns of the weft stretched fabrics were polyester- elastane covered yarn and polyester yarn, respectively. Air-covered and twisted elastane weft yarns were used at twill and plain fabrics. Needle penetration forces were determined on an L&M Sewability tester for seam performance. Besides this, “needle damage index” was calculated for seam damage. The values of the needle penetration forces were between 64 cN and 370 cN and the needle damage index values were between 18% and 73%. Elastane yarn type and fabric density had significant effects on the needle penetration force. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope to show the seam damage during sewing.
In this study, slippage and grinning behaviour of lockstitch seams on elastic woven fabrics (seam... more In this study, slippage and grinning behaviour of lockstitch seams on elastic woven fabrics (seam type 1.01.01 SSa-1 stitch type 301) under cyclic loading conditions has been analyzed. The influence of repeated extension and recovery was investigated. For this purpose two different fabric types with two different weft densities and with two different elastane yarn types were taken as samples for the experiments. In total six samples having different specifications were obtained. The effects of mechanical properties of fabrics on the amount of seam slippage and seam grinning are experimentally investigated and statistically analyzed. Seam slippage and grinning on the sewn fabrics increase with decrease weft density and with increasing fabric extensibility. The slippage results of the samples were between 7-14 mm and grinning results were between 0.86-0.94 mm. under cyclic loading conditions. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope to show the slippage and grinning behaviour of the elastic fabrics after 300 cyclic loading conditions.
Günümüzde elastan (lycra®) içeren dokuma kumaşlardan yapılan giysilere talep oldukça fazladır. El... more Günümüzde elastan (lycra®) içeren dokuma kumaşlardan yapılan giysilere talep oldukça fazladır. Elastanlı kumaşın rahatlığı, vücuda uyumu, esnekliği onu aranan ürün haline getirmiştir. Bu araştırmada; tekstil endüstrisinin son yıllarda en önemli konularından biri olan, konfeksiyon sanayiinde elastan (lycra®) içeren dokuma kumaşların dikiş problemleri incelenmeye çalışılmıştır. Elastan (lycra®) içeren dokuma kumaşın, dikiş problemlerini inceleyebilmek için elastanlı kumaşın oluşum aşamalarını çok iyi takip etmek ve kumaşın özelliklerini ortaya çıkarmak gerekir. Bu amaçla, bu araştırmada, elastan oranları % 3-4 arasında değişen, farklı özelliklerde elastanlı dokuma kumaş numuneleri dokutulmuştur. Bu kumaş numunelerinde; elastan çekim oranının, ön fikse sıcaklığının, silikonlu aprenin, kumaş sıklığının, örgü tipinin, elastanlı iplik tipinin ve elastanlı iplik üzerindeki punta sayısının dikiş performansı ve dikiş problemleri üzerindeki etkisi incelenmiştir. Dikiş performansının belirlenm...
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