I never tire of the spiky seafood fritters arranged around corn salsa or sauteed trout strewn with pecans in a raftered dining room that’s a ringer for Clyde’s.

He chose a pallet at last and lay down, but all night long he lay with open eyes there in the raftered hall among the sleep of strangers.

Half a mile up to the raftered ceiling hung with red, dusty drapes or banners all ragged with the years.

Deep inside there was a hollow hall, raftered with dead branch and bramble, and roofed with the first leaves and shoots of spring.

It’s slightly quieter on the mezzanine, where the raftered ceiling is lower and tables are more widely spaced; those next to the railing have an eagle’s eye view of the action below.