If you were a wealthy or middle-class woman living in British America around the time of the Revolution, you probably owned a pair of calamanco shoes. Like sneakers or black pumps today, calamancos were the everyday footwear of early American life: practical clothing items that can reveal a great deal about the day-to-day lives — and aspirations — of their owners.

But first, what was calamanco, this special item coveted by women of wealth and women of the middling sort? Calamanco (also spelled callimanco, calimanco, or calamink) is a worsted wool textile finished with a glossy, glazed surface created by forcing the cloth through hot rollers. Historians trace the earliest usage of the term back to the late 16th century. Some, from the Late Latin word , referring to a felt cap or skullcap.