Romantic Escapes in the Caribbean

Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Hunter Publishing, Inc.

Introduction

Geography

Getting Started

Vacation Options

Budget Getaways

Quick Getaways

Mega Resorts

Where to Stay

Prices

All-Inclusive Resorts

Bed & Breakfasts and Small Inns

Villas

How Long to Stay?

When to Go

Seasonal Pricing

Climate

Festivals

Caribbean Cuisine

Unique Island Dishes

Activities

Tennis

Windsurfing

Sailing

Shopping

Beaches

Adventures

Get Set to Get Wet

Sightseeing

Nightlife

Casinos

Music

Just Doing Nothing

Travel Information

What to Pack

Getting to the Islands

Caribbean Air Carriers

Air-Land Packages

Island-Hopping

Cruises

Travel Agents

Entry Requirements

Obtaining a Passport

Vacation Options

Budget Getaways

Quick Getaways

Mega Resorts

Where to Stay

Prices

All-Inclusive Resorts

Bed & Breakfasts and Small Inns

Villas

How Long to Stay?

Caribbean Embassies & Consulates

Customs

Vacation Options

Budget Getaways

Quick Getaways

Mega Resorts

Where to Stay

Prices

All-Inclusive Resorts

Bed & Breakfasts and Small Inns

Villas

How Long to Stay?

Life

Dress

Patois

Taxis

Potential Problems

Crime

Drugs

Food & Drink

Sunburn

Insects

Manchineel Trees

Marine Dangers

Heat Dangers

Time Zones

Currency

Island Romance

Weddings

Destination Weddings

Two Top Wedding Packages

Other Wedding Packages

Wedding Requirements

Romantic Sites intheCaribbean

The Islands

Anguilla

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Antigua & Barbuda

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Antigua

Barbuda

Tables for Two

Antigua

Barbuda

Romantic Activities

Beaches

Underwater Delights

Island Sights & Museums

Shopping

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Aruba

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Nightlife

Just the Facts

The Bahamas

Geography

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Nassau-New Providence Island

Grand Bahama Island

Harbour Island

Tables for Two

Nassau-New Providence Island

Romantic Activities

Paradise Island

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Barbados

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Bermuda

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Island Sights & Museums

Shopping

Just the Facts

British Virgin Islands

Festivals

Tortola

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Virgin Gorda

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Peter Island

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Cayman Islands

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Grand Cayman

Little Cayman

Cayman Brac

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Grand Cayman

Little Cayman

Cayman Brac

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Curaçao

Geography

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Dominican Republic

Geography

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Jamaica

The People

Geography

Festivals

Jamaican Jargon

Sweet Dreams

Montego Bay

Negril

Ocho Rios

Outlying Ocho Rios Areas

Port Antonio

Tables for Two

Montego Bay

Negril

Ocho Rios

Port Antonio

Romantic Activities

Golf

Underwater Delights

Ocho Rios Sights

Montego Bay Sights

Negril Sights

Port Antonio Sights

Shopping

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Puerto Rico

Geography

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Island Sights & Museums

Natural Attractions

Golf

Shopping

Nightlife

Just the Facts

St. Barts

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Beaches

Shopping

Just the Facts

St. Kitts & Nevis

Geography

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

St. Kitts

Nevis

Tables for Two

St. Kitts

Nevis

Romantic Activities

Island Sights & Museums

Beaches

Underwater Delights

Other Activities

Nightlife

Just the Facts

St. Lucia

Geography

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Island Sights

Underwater Delights

Beaches

Shopping

Nightlife

Just the Facts

St. Martin - SintMaarten 

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

French St. Martin

Dutch Sint Maarten

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Boat Racing

Shopping

Nightlife

Just the Facts

Trinidad & Tobago

Geography

Festivals

Sweet Dreams

Trinidad

Tobago

Tables for Two

Trinidad

Tobago

Romantic Activities

Island Sights

Water Delights

US Virgin Islands

Geography

Festivals

St. Croix

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Shopping

Nightlife

Just the Facts

St. John

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Nightlife

Just the Facts

St. Thomas

Sweet Dreams

Tables for Two

Romantic Activities

Just the Facts

Appendix

Caribbean Tourist Boards

US Passport Offices

Embassies & Consulates

French Government Tourist Offices

Introduction

Before we start examining the individual islands, lets look at the region as a whole. The Caribbean spans an area that stretches over 2,000 miles east to west and 1,000 miles north to south, starting just off the coast of Florida and reaching down to the coast of South America. This part of the world is blessed with year-round sunshine, with water warmed by Caribbean currents and shores cooled by gentle trade winds. Winter and summer temperatures differ by only a few degrees.

Geography

The islands arch out like a cracking whip, with the largest islands to the west and the small islands to the east, curving on down to South America and ending with a snap back to the west at the ABC islands: Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao. The whole formation of islands is referred to as the Antilles, usually divided into the Greater Antilles and the Lesser Antilles. The Greater Antilles, as the name suggests, are the Caribbeans largest islands: Cuba, Hispaniola (an island shared by the Dominican Republic and Haiti), Jamaica, and Puerto Rico. The term Lesser Antilles encompasses the other islands. Often, the area is just divided up into the Eastern and Western Caribbean. The Eastern islands are the same as the Lesser Antilles; the Western Caribbean is the Greater Antilles and the Cayman Islands. The multiple names given to this region is your first hint at the diversity the Caribbean boasts. In researching and writing this book, we traveled to the Caribbean every few weeks and many friends asked us, Are you getting bored visiting the same area again and again? Besides the fact that it would be pretty tough to tire of perfect weather, postcard-pretty scenes, and a sea as clear as glass, the Caribbean holds an endless fascination for us, and hopefully for you, because it offers so many different types of experiences. Although every one of these countries is an island surrounded by the Caribbean Sea, they differ in many ways. The political structures range from crown colonies to independent nations. Some islands span hundreds of square miles; others can be covered by bicycle in a single afternoon. Languages vary as well; English, Spanish, French, Dutch, and even a beautiful mélange of languages called Papiamento greet visitors, though youll find that English is spoken in just about every resort area. Although technically not part of the Caribbean, the Bahamas share its azure waters and perpetual summer. Bermuda is also beyond the Caribbeans reaches, though it, too, offers a romantic island atmosphere.

How Do You Say....

The Caribbean contains a few tongue twisters. So you can sound like a local, here's how to say some of the toughest: 

Anguilla    an-GWIL-a 

Antigua    an-TEE-ga 

Barbuda    bar-BOO-da  

Nevis    NEE-vis 

Saba    SAH-buh 

Statia    STAY-sha 

St. Barths    St. Barts 

St. Croix    St. Kroy 

St. Lucia    St. LOU-sha

Getting Started

Okay, it's time to make some decisions. Which island will you choose? It's a question that only the two of you can answer, based on your own personal tastes. Do you want high-rise luxury or Robinson Crusoe-type seclusion? Glitzy dinner shows or evening serenades from tiny tree frogs? Days spent shopping, snorkeling, scuba diving, or just sunning on a sandy beach? When friends ask us for help in selecting a destination, we advise them to first identify their preferences. We sometimes like the bustling atmosphere of busy islands like Jamaica, St. Thomas, or Puerto Rico; other times we long for the serenity of St. Kitts, Nevis, or Virgin Gorda. To help you make this major decision, begin by asking yourself these questions:

Is our budget a major factor in our choice?

Will this be a quick three- or four-day getaway or a leisurely vacation of a week or more?

Do we enjoy casino gambling and shows?

Are we looking for luxurious accommodations?

Would we prefer the convenience of an all-inclusive resort?

Do we want to rent a car and explore on our own?

What activities are most important to us? Snorkeling? Scuba? Tennis? Windsurfing? Sailing? Hiking? Shopping?

Do we want a lush, tropical environment?

Do we want white sand beaches? Nude beaches?

Do we want the simplicity of remaining on US turf or would we rather experience a different culture?

Sit down together and consider your answers. Then take a look at your choices. 

Vacation Options

Budget Getaways

Theres no good way to put this, but you'll find out soon enough that a trip to the Caribbean isn't cheap. Even if you select a budget hotel, transportation to the islands is a big expense that you just can't avoid. However, some islands are less expensive than others. These destinations are high volume, bringing in commercial and charter flights on a daily basis. This may mean more crowds, but your airfare will probably be cheaper than flights to more secluded islands.

Some destinations offer packages that include air, hotel, and ground transportation for one affordable price. Jamaica, Puerto Rico, the US Virgin Islands, the Bahamas, and the Dominican Republic offer these kinds of deals.

Charter airline companies serve most of these islands as well. For more information on low-cost carriers, see Travel Information.

Quick Getaways

If you're planning a three- or four-day retreat, make the most of your visit by minimizing travel time. These islands are the easiest jumps from the US: the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos, Cayman Islands, Puerto Rico, and Jamaica (if you stay in the Montego Bay area; Negril and Ocho Rios are nearly two hours from the airport, Port Antonio is even farther). From the UK, you'll find the best connections to Barbados, Antigua, and Bermuda.

Mega Resorts

Twenty-four-hour room service, full-treatment spas, and satellite TV arent commonplace throughout the Caribbean. However, the two of you can be pampered at full-service properties in Puerto Rico, Aruba, the Bahamas, Jamaica, Barbados and St. Lucia in hotels that offer more than the comforts of home.

Where to Stay

Whatever you're looking for in the way of accommodations - high-rise hotel, seaside bungalow, bed-and-breakfast inn, small traditional hotel, or private villa - you'll find it in the Caribbean. Just as varied as the type of accommodations available is the range of prices at these properties. Everything from budget motels with spartan furnishings to private islands that attract royalty and Hollywood types is available. This guidebook covers things in-between, places where the everyday vacationing couple can enjoy safety and comfort in surroundings where romance can flourish. The resorts, hotels, and villas featured on these pages offer all levels of activity. Some have round-the-clock fun and evening theme parties; others point the way for guests to find their own entertainment. Some are located on the beach; others up the mountains with spectacular views. Some are full-service properties with everything from beauty salons to jewelry shops to a half-dozen bars and restaurants located right on property; others are simple accommodations where the guests enjoy dinner in former greathouses built over 200 years ago.

Choosing a Caribbean accommodation is more important than selecting a hotel at other destinations. A Caribbean hotel, unlike a property in a downtown US city, for example, becomes your home away from home. This is not just where you spend your nights, but also a good portion of your days, languishing on the beach, lying beneath towering palms, and luxuriating in a warm sea. What form will your paradise take? White sandy beaches? Rugged limestone cliffs perched above baby blue water? Mountainside vistas? A resort with daily activities and a pulsating nightlife? A historic inn furnished with Caribbean antiques? Or a quiet getaway where the only footprints are your own? The choice is yours.

Prices

Hotel prices vary drastically between high and low season and also by view. Garden-view rooms are generally the least expensive, followed by ocean-view, then oceanfront. Suites are the priciest accommodations, with rates that can be more than double that of a standard room. Rather than provide specific prices, which come and go as quickly as a hibiscus blossom, we've given price ranges for accommodations. These rates reflect high winter season for a standard room for two adults for one night (expect prices to be as much as 40% lower during the off season); prices are in US dollars. You'll find a price scale at the beginning of each Sweet Dreams section for each island.

All-Inclusive Resorts

As the name suggests, all-inclusive means that all activities, meals, drinks, airport transfers, and tips are included in the price. This policy means that you're free to try anything you like without worrying about spending your vacation budget for the next five years. Ever been curious about windsurfing? Take a lesson. Want to know how to reggae dance? Throw off your shoes and jump in line. Wonder how those brightly colored drinks with the funny umbrellas taste? Belly up to the bar. You're free to try it all. Some folks don't like all-inclusives because of the concern (not unfounded) that once you've paid for the whole package you'll be unlikely to leave the property to sample local restaurants and explore the island. The all-inclusive confinement is, however, up to the individual couple. Perhaps your goal for this trip is to languish away the mornings in bed (this is, after all, a guide for lovers), roll out to the beach, grab a rum punch in one hand and your partners hand in the other, and sit there until the sun slowly sinks into the sea. An all-inclusive is just right for you. You won't have to worry about taxis or rental cars or dinner reservations. Or maybe the two of you want to try it all: scuba diving, sailing, windsurfing, golf, or tennis. An all-inclusive is just the ticket for you as well. The one-price-pays-all policy will be a better deal than paying for individual lessons. Who else should check out an all-inclusive? Those who are:

On a tight budget. You'll know how much to put aside for the entire vacation before you ever buy your ticket. Once you arrive, live like a king and you never have to count how much money's left or how high the tallys going on your credit card. All-inclusives, like other hotels, come in a varied price range.

Traveling with the kids. You can still have a romantic trip thanks to all-inclusive resorts with childrens' programs. The kids will have fun doing age-appropriate activities, making new friends, and learning about a new culture, while the two of you enjoy a romantic respite.

Receiving the trip as a gift. All-inclusive resort vacations are increasingly popular as wedding gifts. They permit the gift-giver to pay for the trip up front and for honeymooners to enjoy themselves without feeling like they're running up a huge tab for parents or in-laws.

Getting married on your honeymoon. Several all-inclusives offer free weddings; all offer various wedding packages. You'll find experienced wedding planners at these resorts who can simplify paperwork and make your wedding a special, hassle-free day.

We love all-inclusive resorts, but we are careful to balance a stay there with island tours or visits to off-property restaurants so as not to miss island culture. Even with these extra expenditures, we've found most of these resorts to be economical choices. In selecting an all-inclusive, read through the offerings carefully. Are all drinks included or just wine with dinner? Are tips included? Airport transfers? Watersports but not motorized sports? Scuba diving? Know what features are important to the two of you and see if those are included in the package price. Jamaica is the king of the all-inclusive, but you'll find them on several other islands, especially Aruba, Barbados, St. Lucia, Antigua, the Bahamas, and the Turks and Caicos.

Bed & Breakfasts and Small Inns

If you're looking for peace and quiet, B&Bs and small inns offer good getaways and a chance to immerse yourself in more of the local atmosphere. These small inns, many built around historic greathouses on former plantations, are intimate properties that host only a handful of guests at a time. Here, the two of you will be part of just a small group and you'll get to know each other as you would aboard a small cruise. Often, the owners of the inn reside right on property, so you'll receive personal attention. Our favorite inns make us feel like were guests of the family returning for another stay. We enjoy chatting with other guests, usually experienced travelers, and with the owners, who give us an insight into island life. Over the years, we've shared dinner conversations with hoteliers about hurricanes, gardening, local dining specialties, sports, and island life in general. It has given us a perspective on these destinations that we would never have received at a larger property. Ask plenty of questions before booking a stay in a B&B or small inn. These properties may offer limited services and be more restrictive than a traditional hotel. 

Be sure to ask: 

Is smoking permitted indoors?

Are children allowed as guests?

Is breakfast served at one time or as guests wander in?

Are intimate tables available or are meals served family style? 

Are special dietary considerations met?

Is there a minimum stay?

Does a remote location necessitate a rental car?

Villas

For some couples, the idea of real romance is a private villa, without other guests. Just the two of you - alone, except for the occasional visit by a cook or maid who is there to meet your special requests, introduce you to island cuisine, and make you feel pampered in what really is your home away from home. St. John, St. Thomas, Jamaica, and Barbados are especially popular islands for villa rentals. Villas vary in price, services, and level of luxury. Before you make a commitment, check:

Cleaning service. Many villas offer cleaning service before your arrival and after your departure; additional cleaning can be arranged for a surcharge. At other properties, you may have daily maid service.

Groceries. Ask if you might send a deposit for groceries and have a cook stock up before your arrival. Finding a refrigerator and cabinets ready with your favorites can be comforting after a long flight.

Cook service. Many villas can arrange for cook service as you choose: three meals a day, dinner only, or just one special meal. In Jamaica, villas typically include cook service.

Check your options. Don't assume your villa is air conditioned; ever-present trade winds make this an optional feature. If it's more of a necessity than an option to you, inquire.

Car rental. Many villas are located away from the resort areas. See if you should rent a car to avoid pricey taxi rides for long hauls.

Minimum stay. Unlike hotel minimums of three nights, villas often require a minimum seven-night rental.

Many resorts also offer villa rentals. These homes are located on the resort property and guests enjoy the security and services of the resort while at the same time having the space and facilities of a villa home. Some resorts that include villa homes are Peter Island, Four Seasons Nevis, Jumby Bay, and Bitter End Yacht Club in the British Virgin Islands.

How Long to Stay?

Package vacations usually come in three- , four- , and seven-night lengths, with the option to add extra nights if you like. If you're setting up your own vacation, then the sky (okay, your budget) is the limit. All but the smallest islands have daily air service, so you can usually schedule arrival and departure whenever you like. We've found that three-night trips are just a little too short, even for a quick getaway. Three nights sounds like it should also include four days, but you have to be realistic. Usually your arrival day will be lost; departing from Texas we arrive in the Caribbean no earlier than mid-afternoon and sometimes much later than that. If you're arriving from the West Coast, expect a full travel day. You'll probably miss both dinner and the evening show and just be ready to roll into bed after you check in. The departure day is also lost. With a two-hour international flight check-in, you often need to leave for the airport just after breakfast. So, on a three-night, four-day package, expect two full days of vacation: the days between your arrival and your departure. We've done it, but it's not relaxing and can, especially if you've never been to the island before, be very frustrating. If you do consider a three-night package, re-read the Quick Getaways section,just prior for the list of the easiest destinations to reach from the US. If budget is a major factor or if you need to hurry back to the kids, we suggest a four-night trip. You'll have a little time to relax and, although it's not as glorious as a week-long stay, you'll start to get into the island groove and state of mind. On a week-long trip you'll have a chance to really relax and take some day-trips around the island. Two-week trips are the epitome of luxury. They're usually enjoyed by Europeans rather than Americans, who generally have shorter vacations than their trans-Atlantic neighbors. If you're lucky enough to afford, both in time and money, a long getaway, you might think about island-hopping.

TIP: If you will be arriving very late, consider staying the first night at an inexpensive hotel close to the airport. A business hotel, without the amenities of a resort, will look fine if you're coming in just in time to hit the sack. The next morning, get up and take a taxi to your resort hotel. You'll arrive early and have all day to enjoy the resort and feel like you're really getting your money's worth. You may have to store your luggage until your room is ready, but most resorts have changing facilities so you can go ahead and hit the beach.

When to Go

Seasonal Pricing

Room rates are at their highest from mid-December through mid-April (and at all-time highs during the holiday weeks), and generally fall about 40-50% during low season. Resorts that seem out of reach in the winter months may be right in your price range during the summer. Of course, into any scene a little rain must fall, and in the Caribbean that means low season. Low season covers the summer and early fall months, for two reasons. First, these are the warmest months in the Northeast US, the area of the country that often flees to the sunny Caribbean during the chilly winter months, so demand is down. Second, this is hurricane season.

Climate

Mention the Caribbean and weather in the same sentence, and one concern quickly arises: hurricanes. These deadly storms are a threat officially from June through November, although the greatest danger is during the later months, basically August through October. (September is the worst.) Keep in mind, however, that the Caribbean is a large region. We've been in the Western Caribbean when storms were picking up force in the eastern reaches and never felt a gust of wind or saw a wave over ankle high. To minimize the chances of a hurricane ruining or postponing your trip, plan a vacation outside the hurricane season or outside the hurricane zone. In the far southern reaches, the islands of Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao (also known as the ABC islands) and Trinidad and Tobago are below the hurricane zone and are safer bets during the summer and fall months. Except for the hurricane season, weather in the Caribbean is a wonderfully monotonous topic. (In Papiamento, the language of the Dutch islands, there is no word for weather. It's almost always perfect, so why waste a word?) In the summer, days peak in the low 90s, with lows in the 70s. In the winter, temperatures run about 5 to 10 degrees cooler. The sea remains warm enough for comfortable swimming year-round. (Note: The Bahamas are technically not part of the Caribbean, and you'll find the temperatures here are slightly cooler.) If budget is not your prime consideration, then when's the best time to go to the Caribbean? Any time!

Festivals

Whatever time you visit the Caribbean, chances are good that an island festival of some sort will be in progress, offering you the chance to take part in local celebrations of life. Carnival is the biggest bash in the islands and is held in January in Trinidad, April in St. Thomas, and February in St. Martin. When it comes to Carnival, no island's festivities can beat Trinidad's pulsating party, perhaps second only to Rio de Janeiro's celebration. Held the Monday and Tuesday prior to Ash Wednesday, this pre-Lenten party is preceded by weeks of parties, balls, competitions, and calypso shows. J'Ouvert, Carnival Monday, starts at two in the morning as Trinidadians take to the streets in costume. Grab your mate and practice Carnival dances: chipping (a slow shuffle down the street), jumping up (you can picture that one), and wining (a pelvic dance that would put Elvis to shame). Soca music pulsates from giant trucks while people playing steel pans deliver traditional calypso sounds. The two of you can jump in and shuffle along as the whole parade gyrates down the street.

Caribbean Cuisine

For most couples, dining is an important part of their trip. Its a chance to further delve into a culture, to learn more about the bounty of the land and the sea.

A richly diverse region, the Caribbean is filled with a full menu of offerings that reflect the many cultures that settled this area. From East Indian rotis served throughout Trinidad and Tobago, to Dutch keshi yena served on Aruba, Curaçao, and St. Maarten, the islands are a cornucopia of cultures and cuisines. One thing island cuisines have in common is attention to flavor. Dishes are rich with tastes and are often spicy. Some dishes trace their origin back to when the Arawak Indians first barbecued meats. Later, distinctive seasonings were developed by Africans, who came to the islands as slaves. A century later, Chinese and East Indian influences made their way to the Caribbean, when indentured laborers who replaced slaves after emancipation also brought their own culinary talents. Today curried dishes grace nearly every menu, using local meats such as goat, chicken, and seafood.

Unique Island Dishes

Breakfast 

Ackee and saltfish, the national dish of Jamaica. Ackee is a small fruit that is harvested only when it bursts and reveals its black seeds; before that time the fruit is poisonous. Once cooked, it resembles and tastes much like scrambled eggs.

Johnnycakes and boiled fish are morning dishes in the Bahamas. 

Soups

Pepperpot, a spicy stew in Jamaica. 

Asopao, a chicken and rice soup in Puerto Rico. 

Stoba di cabrito (goat stew) in Curaçao. 

Entrées 

Fried fish. 

Stewed lamb with pan bati (pancake) on Dutch islands. 

Keshi yena, a hollowed wheel of Edam cheese filled with meat and baked to combine flavors served on Dutch islands.

Conch (pronounced Konk), a shellfish served chopped, battered and fried in conch fritters. 

Grouper, a large fish caught in the waters just offshore; appears on every menu. 

Flying fish. This fish, often fried, is a favorite in