Cooley

INTRODUCTION

It was the land—a blackjack and post oak forest teeming with game, dotted with artesian springs—that enticed people to settle in what today is Southlake.

The Spanish cut their way through it in the 1600s, and theirs were the earliest written descriptions of the Cross Timbers, or what they called monte grande—a mix of prairie, savanna, and dense woodland shaped like a dagger that stretched from Central Texas into Kansas. Native Americans had long lived and skirmished with each other here. It was like struggling through forests of cast iron, wrote author Washington Irving in 1832, after he encountered the forest north of the Red River while traveling.

Republic of Texas president Sam Houston had long sought peaceful approaches to setting boundaries between the increasing number of white settlers and the Native Americans, including the establishment of trading posts such as Coffee’s Station, built on the Red River. He also pursued treaties, one of which made the Eastern Cross Timbers the demarcation line between Native Americans and white settlers. In 1843, while waiting for various tribes to arrive for treaty talks, Houston and his entourage camped for one month at Grape Vine Springs, present-day Coppell, where they hunted for buffalo. When the chiefs failed to show up, the meeting was rescheduled; a treaty was eventually signed at Bird’s Fort, an early settlement of present-day Arlington.

By the 1860s, there were lots of things around here for settlers to fight—illness, insects, hardship, Comanche Indians, and starting in 1861, the Yankees. Confederate companies were formed in Denton, Dallas, and other towns; and while Northern sentiment prevailed in a few North Texas towns, the men from this area joined the Confederate army and rode east to fight. Many who returned raised families and were buried years later in local cemeteries. Yankees from the North—and even from Southern states such as Tennessee—who came to Texas after the war are buried there, too.

In the economically depressed years after the Civil War, many families and friends trekked to this part of Texas, buying farms carved from the original grants given to the Missouri colonists and establishing scattered churches, schools, and farms. Families made do with what they could grow, and if there was anything left over, a farmer could take it to nearby Grapevine to trade for coffee, sewing needles, or other supplies. Animal pelts also could be traded for supplies.

To get his crops to market in Fort Worth or Dallas, a farmer loaded his wagon and drove to town, arriving late in the evening. He would stable his horses and sleep under the wagon until the market opened early the next day. After selling his crops, he might shop for a few supplies and then head back home.

The Cotton Belt Railroad, running through Grapevine by 1888, expanded markets for his crops. Trucks replaced wagons. If he could afford a truck, a farmer and his sons would only need half a day to deliver their hogs for slaughter in Fort Worth. Tenant farming and sharecropping became more common. R. E. Smith, whose family roots go back to the 1870s in Southlake, described the sharecropper’s life in the early 1900s: Bill Willey was a farmer and worked for [his cousin] Joe on the [Cotton Belt] railroad. Bill’s family was referred to as ‘sand lappers’ because they lived on the sandy land in the Cross Timbers section west of Grapevine, and they were very ‘hard scrabble’ subsistence farmers. Smith explained that Bill’s family would get up early to reach the Grapevine Prairie by dawn, children included. They would chop the cotton in the spring, which meant taking a hoe to the rows and weeding and thinning the plants. They’d pick the cotton in the fall and load it in wagons. Smith recalls being thrown into a tall, board-sided wagon full of fluffy cotton and riding in it all the way to the gin in Grapevine.

Area farmers would sometimes have good harvests, but that could mean a larger supply and lower prices. Some negotiated higher prices from processors by joining cooperatives and pooling their harvests. New kinds of farming equipment were replacing the trusted mule- and horse-drawn plows. But despite these improvements, farmers were feeling the pinch of a failing economy by the end of the 1920s. Hardest hit was cotton. In 1932, the price fell from 17¢ a pound to less than 6¢.

The intersection of Highway 114 and Dove Road was the site of the 1934 Easter Sunday shooting of two highway patrol officers by Bonnie and Clyde or members of their gang. E. B. Wheeler and H. D. Murphy had stopped for what they thought were motorists in need of assistance. One of the officers was about to be married, and his bereaved bride-to-be wore her wedding clothes to his funeral. A monument now stands near where they were murdered.

Whether it was the good schools or Southlake’s proximity to Dallas–Fort Worth Airport, people liked what they saw when they came to Southlake, and they wanted it to stay that way. Former councilman Ralph Evans called it the I’m-in-the-boat, pull-up-the-rope mentality. City leaders planned for the future, created master plans that included bike paths and plenty of parks, and held developers accountable for what their city would look like. Whatever the reasons for Southlake’s success through good times and bad, the area rich with heritage has endured.

One

THIS WAS THE WEST 1840–1860

When white settlers from Platte County, Missouri, began arriving in the area in the mid-1840s, they established farms, built log homes, and organized the first church in Tarrant County—Lonesome Dove Baptist