Let's Go Budget Berlin: The Student Travel Guide
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Let's Go Budget Guides are for travelers who want to spend less but have more fun, students with more time than money, and anyone who appreciates a good deal. Let's Go Budget guides are written by Harvard student researchers. And who better than a starving student to figure out how to stretch a budgetand discover what's free and fun along the way?
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Let's Go Budget Berlin - Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.
Contents
Discover Berlin
Planning Your Trip
Maps
Accommodations
Sights
Food
Nightlife
Arts and Culture
Shopping
Excursions
Essentials
Berlin 101
Beyond Tourism
Index
Copyright Page
Quick Reference
Discover Berlin
Budget Berlin
CHEAP EATS
FREEBIES
BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTSEEING ON THE CHEAP
What To Do
COLD WAR KIDS
GLBT BERLIN
BEYOND TOURISM
STUDENT SUPERLATIVES
So you’ve decided to visit Berlin. Congratulations. Your pretentious friends went to Paris. Your haughty friends went to London. And your lost friends went to Belarus. But you decided on Berlin. You’ve probably heard that Berlin is the coolest city in the world, or that it has one of the best clubs in Europe, or that it sleeps when the sun comes up. Well, don’t believe the hype. It’s not the coolest city in the world; it’s several of the coolest cities in the world. It doesn’t have one of the best clubs in Europe; it has 10. To top it off, Berlin never sleeps.
Berlin’s rise began with some normal history, taken to epic heights. King Friedrich II and his identically named progeny ruled from canal-lined boulevards, built palaces like middle-fingers to all the haters, and developed Prussia into an Enlightened European powerhouse, with Berlin at the helm. But after centuries of captaining Europe, Berlin went crazy in the 20th. As the seat of Hitler’s terror, and with WWII drama in its streets, Berlin rebooted in the ’50s, only to become a physical manifestation of Cold War divisions. The Wall rose in ’61, slicing the city and fostering the enmity of a radical student and punk population. Ten years after the Wall crumbled in ’89, the German government decided to relocate from Bonn to Berlin. And from there, Berlin became today’s European champion of cool.
Sorry about your friends.
Budget Berlin
CHEAP EATS
Welcome to the land of Cheap and Awesome. Stick to the inexpensive restaurants and food stands in Friedrichsain, Kreuzberg, and Prenzlauerberg, and you just might save enough to buy a coffee and pretend to be rich in the posh cafes in Charlottenburg, Schöneberg, and Wilmersdorf. And while there’s plenty of wurst and schnitzel to be had for travelers on a budget, Berlin’s ethnic cuisine is some of the tastiest and cheapest on offer. So dive into that falafel, or make your way to the corner Thai or Vietnamese place—you won’t be disappointed, and your wallet will thank you.
MUSTAFA’S: Mustafa’s flavorful dürüm is a little Turkish miracle. At just €4, it’s undoubtedly the best fast food in town.
MONSIEUR VUONG: Vietnamese restaurants are among the most common cheap, sit-down lunch places in Berlin, but Monsieur Vuong beats them all with a constantly changing menu of its own tasty creations.
SCHWARZES CAFE: This 24hr. cafe serves food at any hour, so plan on washing down an omelette with absinthe at 3:34am on a Sunday.
CAFÉ MORGENLAND: The weekend morning brunch buffet (€9.50) has such an extensive selection of breakfast staples that it blows away competing slim hostel breakfast buffets.
FRITTIERSALON: Made to look like a ’50s American diner, this burger joint’s mostly vegetarian menu lists refreshing takes on greasy, meaty German cuisine.
Freebies
BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS
From zany themes to hostel bars to rooftop patios to institutional places that cost next to nothing and impose crazy curfews—you name it, Berlin’s got it.
CIRCUS HOSTEL: All the fun of a circus, minus the creepy clowns. The only thing bigger than the huge, colorful rooms is the extensive breakfast buffet.
PFEFFERBETT: A tremendous brick building with a cathedralsized common room holds chapelsized rooms and a hip and helpful staff.
COMEBACKPACKERS HOSTEL: Refreshing hostel humor, a window-lined common room, and a long outdoor patio overlooking a busy square make this a light and bright hostel experience.
SUNFLOWER HOSTEL: Freaky murals featuring icons in American nerd culture line the way to a comfy bunk in a quiet, spacious, and clean dorm.
JETPAK: Located remotely far to the southwest in the whispering Grünewald, JetPak channels your favorite childhood summer camp memories with a grassy compound filled with fun and games and a main building that feels like a mountain lodge.
SIGHTSEEING ON THE CHEAP
Fortunately for the budget traveler, many of Berlin’s best sights are free to see, if not necessarily to enter or climb. Students will have a particularly easy time of sightseeing on a budget, thanks to the 50% student discount at most sights and museums.
TOPOGRAPHY OF TERROR: This free museum, which opened in May 2010, tracks the origins, development, and deployment of Nazi terror.
TACHELES: This bombed-out department store has become a living, breathing street-art metropolis. Chances are you’ll never again experience anything like it. The best part? It’s completely free.
REICHSTAG: Climb to the Reichstag roof to marvel at the openness
of German government, symbolized by the glass ceiling. A stunning view of the Berlin skyline awaits.
PARK IT: Berlin’s parks (free, of course) are often nothing less than extensive, grassy museums, as some of them, like Volkspark Friedrichshain and Tempelhofer Park, feature impressive historical artifacts among the sunbathers and joggers.
What To Do
COLD WAR KIDS
Berlin’s Cold War history is all around. While you could spend a fortune on entry to certain tourist traps (ahem, Checkpoint Charlie), there are plenty of cheaper options that allow you to get up close and personal with Berlin’s Cold War relics. The Berliner Mauer Dokumentationszentrum covers an entire block in Prenzlauer Berg with a comprehensive collection of all things Wall, including original recordings, telegrams, and photos. The Stasi Museum, the headquarters of East Berlin’s secret police, is now a museum dedicated to Stasi artifacts that is a must for Cold War buffs and fans of The Lives of Others (2006). Last but not least, the massive Soviet Memorial, built by the Soviets in 1945, contains haunting photo exhibits of desolate post-war Berlin and Soviet battlefields.
GLBT BERLIN
Until 1969, homosexuality was outlawed in both East and West Berlin under a law passed by the Nazis. Since then, Berlin has become one of the world’s most GLBT-friendly cities. The Schwules Museum, the world’s only state-funded museum on persecution of homosexuals, showcases fascinating temporary exhibits. Come nightfall, head to Hafen, a landmark for Berlin’s gay community. Stop by if you’re in town on April 30th for a huge party celebrating the Queen of the Netherlands—we’ve heard she always makes an appearance. Alternatively, in a neighborhood dominated by male gay clubs, low-key Begine is a welcome retreat for women with readings and live music.
BEYOND TOURISM
Ready to learn more about Berlin and give back to the community? Take your debating skills to the next level with an internship at The Bundestag, Germany’s national parliament. If you’re looking to volunteer, consider International Cultural Youth Exchange, which places volunteers with a host family and a volunteer job. For more opportunities, see Beyond Tourism.
Student Superlatives
Planning Your Trip
WHEN TO GO
NEIGHBORHOODS
Charlottenburg
Schöneberg and Wilmersdorf
Mitte
Prenzlauer Berg
Friedrichshain
Kreuzberg
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Cheap Date
Walking Tour
Three-Day Weekend: Best Bezirke on a Budget
WHEN TO GO
Tourists visit Berlin year-round. The summer months (May-September) offer the best weather and the highest concentration of tourists. Summer visitors to Berlin can also look forward to beer gardens, cookouts in the park, sprawling flea markets, and floating pubs. The summer is also the most difficult time to find cheap accommodations, but it also brings the most entertainment: bars and clubs will be hopping, many sights and attractions will stay open later, and festivals (many of them free) will be off the Richter. To avoid the crowds, spring and autumn are better bets; spring has calmer and more consistent weather. The winter can be bitterly cold and precipitous in Berlin; if you must visit then, be sure to pack your Mitte-ns.
NEIGHBORHOODS
Charlottenburg
Should you forget that Berlin is an old European capital, venture into Charlottenburg. Originally a separate town founded around the grounds of Friedrich I’s palace, it became an affluent cultural center during the Weimar years and the Berlin Wall era thanks to Anglo-American support. The neighborhood retains its original old-world opulence, from the upscale Beaux-Arts apartments to the shamelessly extravagant Kurfürstendamm, Berlin’s main shopping strip. Ku’damm, as the locals call it, runs from east to west through southern Charlottenburg. It’s home to Europe’s largest department store, KaDeWe, which comprises five massive floors that keep patrons expertly dressed and lavishly fed with gourmet delicacies. Close to central Charlottenburg is the elephantine Bahnhof Zoo, a favorite among families, cute animal enthusiasts, and taxidermists (R.I.P., Knut). Along with the zoo, the Ku’damm, and its never-ending flow of teenagers darting in and out of H and M, is one of the youngest and liveliest areas in Charlottenburg. Other popular sights include the Spree River in the northwest and the absurdly splendiferous Schloß Charlottenburg to the north. Otherwise, the neighborhood’s high rents keep out most young people and students, so the Charlottenburg crowd tends to be old and quiet, and prefers the sidewalk seating of an expensive Ku’Damm restaurant to crazy ragers in one of the area’s few clubs.
Icons
Schöneberg and Wilmersdorf
South of Ku’damm, Schöneberg and Wilmersdorf are primarily quiet residential neighborhoods, remarkable for their world class cafe culture, bistro tables, relaxed diners, and coffee shops spilling onto virtually every cobblestone street. There’s a reason that no Starbucks has popped up in Schöneberg: the coffee here is delicious, cheap, and sometimes made with so much love that a heart appears in the foam. Also, nowhere else in Berlin, and perhaps in all of Germany, is the GLBT community quite as spectacularly ready to party as in the area immediately surrounding Nollendorfplatz. Here, the gay nightlife scene varies from chill to crazy, and the various bars scattered across the northern part of Schöneberg are often packed beyond capacity. To the west lies one of Berlin’s most convenient outdoor getaways: Grunewald rustles with city dwellers trading their daily commute for peaceful strolls with the family dog among the pines. But if you don’t have the time for the 20min. bus or tram ride—or a palm reader once predicted that you would be mauled by dogs in a German forest—then Schöneberg and Wilmersdorf offer a gracious handful of shady parks scattered among their apartment facades where you can sit back in the grass and kick back the cups of joe.
Mitte
True to its name (center
in English), Mitte is without a doubt Berlin’s political, historical, cultural, and tourist-ical center. Boasting the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Jewish Memorial, the Rotes Rathaus, the Victory Column, and the Berliner Dom, Mitte is crawling with tourists wearing the names of other cities on their T-shirts, passing through to get a glimpse of some of the world’s worthiest sights. The area also has Berlin’s best cultural institutions; Museum Island piles some of the world’s most awe-inspiring museums practically on top of each other, with the too-well-preserved-to-be-true Pergamon Museum atop the heap. Some of the world’s most famous performance halls, including the Berlin Philharmonic and the Deutscher Staatsoper, grace this cultural capital with their cultural capital. Then, of course, there’s the forest-like Tiergarten at the center of Mitte, which shelters sunbathers, barbecuers, pensive wanderers, and probably several breeds of magical creatures. The main street cutting through the Tiergarten, Straße des 17 Juni, serves as a popular gathering place where carnivals, markets, protests, and public viewings of the World Cup take precedent over constant traffic.
What’s perhaps most fun about Mitte is tracing the history of Berlin down its streets and through its buildings. One of the most common phrases in relation to every Mitte sight is heavily damaged in WWII,
and constructions and reconstructions are often difficult to distinguish. The Berlin Wall once ran directly through Mitte, and, though the signs of the divide fade with every passing year, there are still many remnants of a more fragmented Berlin, like the DDR-built Fernsehturm, which, for better or worse, is Mitte’s most incessantly visible landmark. One of the longest still-standing stretches of wall deteriorates in the south, an unsightly sign of unsettling recent times.
Mitte in the Middle
But Mitte ain’t just about the capital-S Sights: it also burns brightly from night until morning with some of Berlin’s most prized techno clubs, many of which are named after baked goods for whatever reason (e.g. Cookies). Plus, with shopping centers both ritzy (Friedrichstraße) and intimidatingly hip (Hackescher Markt), Mitte can serve as a pricey place to replace your threads with something more flannel or form-fitting; that way, entry into the sometimes exclusive nightlife options is only a flashy strut away.
Prenzlauer Berg
Like the history of all things trendy, the history of Prenzlauer Berg in the 20th century is reversal after reversal after reversal. When the Wall fell, Prenzlauer Berg was in ruins. Though it had suffered little damage from Allied bombs compared to its neighbors during WWII, its early DDR days were as filled with neglect as Hansel and Gretel: buildings fell into piles of graffitied bread crumbs, and it wasn’t until the ’70s that people started sweeping up the mess. But as any home-owner with a neighbor who doesn’t mow their lawn knows, neglect means lower rents, and lower rents draw students and the younger in years. By the current millennium, Prenzlauer Berg had become the hippest of the hippest, populated by dreadlock-laden grungesters shopping at secondhand clothing stores, tight-jeaned post-teens drinking cheap black coffee from sidewalk cafe tables, and enough flannel to make a lumberjack chuckle. But hip, by definition, never lasts, and as the noughts progressed, Prenzlauer Berg steadily began to gentrify: students became parents, hippies gave way to yuppies, and parks became playgrounds. Today, Prenzlauer Berg is overrun with toddlers and has one of the highest birth rates in the country. Jungle gyms, strollers, and daycares share the streets with the vestiges of a younger, edgier age, like the tiny, pricey fashion and secondhand stores that line Kastanienallee and the countless cafes spilling onto every sidewalk around Helmholtzplatz. Though it’s changed, Prenzlauer Berg hasn’t completely lost its cool: with the best bar scene of any of the neighborhoods, including a wine place where you choose how much to pay, a ping-pong bar, and more vintage sofas than Mad Men, P’Berg can still be pretty unbelievable. One recommendation for maximizing your time here: rent a bike. With