Contents

16 Favorite Moments

1Strategies for Seeing O‘ahu

2The Best Full-Day Tours

The Best of O‘ahu in Three Days

The Best of O‘ahu in One Week

The Best of O‘ahu in Ten Days

3The Best Special-Interest Tours

Honolulu & O‘ahu with Kids

A Week of O‘ahu History & Culture

Wartime Honolulu

Historic Waikīkī

O‘ahu’s Best Gardens

Honolulu for Art Lovers

Romantic Honolulu & O‘ahu

4The Best of Honolulu & Waikīkī

Historic Chinatown

Walking the Beach of Waikīkī

Historic Honolulu

Kapi‘olani Park

Dining Best Bets

Honolulu & Waikīkī Restaurants A to Z

Lodging Best Bets

Waikīkī Hotels A to Z

Shopping Best Bets

Honolulu & Waikīkī Shopping A to Z

Nightlife & Performing Arts Best Bets

Nightlife & Performing Arts A to Z

5The Best Regional Tours

The North Shore

Where to Stay

Where to Dine

Southern O‘ahu & the Windward Coast

Where to Stay

Where to Dine

6The Best Beaches

Beaches Best Bets

O‘ahu Beaches A to Z

7The Great Outdoors

O‘ahu’s Best Hiking & Camping

O‘ahu’s Best Golf Courses

Adventures on Land

O‘ahu’s Best Snorkeling

Adventures in the Ocean

The Savvy Traveler

Before You Go

Getting There

Fast Facts

Hawai‘i: A Brief History

The Hawaiian Language

Eating in Honolulu

Recommended Reading

Index

Published by:

FrommerMedia LLC

Copyright © 2017 FrommerMedia LLC, New York, NY. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to Support@FrommerMedia.com.

ISBN: 978-1-628-87372-6 (paper); 978-1-628-87373-3(ebk)

Editorial Director: Pauline Frommer

Development Editor: Elizabeth Heath

Production Editor: Kelly Dobbs Henthorne

Photo Editor: Meghan Lamb

Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell

Indexer: Kelly Dobbs Henthorne

Front cover photos, left to right: ©Sorin Colac, ©Malgorzata Litkowska, ©tomas del amo

Back cover photo: ©Allen.G

For information on our other products and services, please go to Frommers.com.

Frommer’s also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.

Manufactured in China

5   4   3   2   1

About This Guide

Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.

Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.

Planning to snorkel with sea turtles along the North Shore or take surfing lessons on Waikīkī Beach? Shopping for fresh flower leis or alohawear in Honolulu’s Chinatown? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience— those finds that turn tourists into travelers.

The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here.

Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at feedback@frommers.com, and we’ll pass them on.

Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.

About the Author

Martha Cheng came to Hawai‘i for a boy and stayed for its food, ocean, and people. She is the former food editor of Honolulu Magazine and now writes feature stories for local and national publications on everything from squash farms in Waimea to fly fishing in Maui. Originally from San Francisco, she’s a former pastry chef, line cook, food truck owner, Peace Corps volunteer, and Google techie. These days, she surfs, eats, and writes.

An Additional Note

Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet 1190.jpg .

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

A Note on Prices

In the Take a Break and Best Bets sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:

Frommers.com

Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 3,600 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include:

•Online updates of our most popular guidebooks

•Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways

•Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends

•Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

An Invitation to the Reader

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Support@FrommerMedia.com.

Waikīkī Beach, with the Diamond Head crater in the background

16 Favorite Moments

Honolulu is filled with so many magical moments: the orange glow as the sun rises behind the outline of Diamond Head, the silvery reflection of the moon on the inky black waters of Waik ī k ī at night, the intoxicating smell of plumeria flowers in the air, the quiet whisper of bamboo dancing in the breeze. I hope this chapter helps you find a few favorite moments of your own.

❶ Seeing Waikīkī offshore. If you think Waikīkī is beautiful, wait until you see it from a boat. I strongly urge you either to take a boat cruise during the day, when it seems as if you can look through the deep, aquamarine waters all the way down to the ocean floor, or for the more romantically inclined, take a sunset cruise and watch the sun go down and the lights of Waikīkī and Honolulu come up. See p 13.

❷ Experiencing a turning point in America’s history: the bombing of Pearl Harbor. I guarantee that you will never forget your reaction when you step on the deck of the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor and look down from the deck into the water at the dark oil oozing like blood from the ship underneath. The horror of December 7, 1941, the day when the 608-foot (185m) Arizona sank in just 9 minutes after being bombed during the Japanese air raid, no longer seems like something from a book—it’s very real. The 1,177 men on board plunged to a fiery death—and the United States went to war. My tip: Absolutely reserve a spot online to avoid a wait. You must wear closed-toe shoes. See p 14.

The USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor

❸ Walking back in history at the Bishop Museum. To get a sense of what Hawai‘i was like before the Europeans landed, head to the Bishop Museum. Don’t think dreary rooms with stuff crowded into cases—think living history: You’ll hear a booming voice break into Hawaiian chant when you enter the Hawaiian Hall and see live performances of traditional hula. Created by a Hawaiian princess in 1899, the Bishop Museum not only is the foremost repository for Hawaiian cultural artifacts but also has a new Science Center, where you can step into the interior of an erupting volcano. See p 21.

Calm, shallow Hanauma Bay is a favorite snorkeling spot.

❹ Kayaking to the Mokes from Kailua Beach. The Windward side is full of gorgeous, white sand beaches, but only Kailua has the Mokulua islands, or the Mokes, as locals call them. I love skimming across the turquoise waters to the twin islands, and then turning back to see the Koolau mountains behind me. And if I’m feeling particularly adventurous, I’ll walk around to the rugged back side of Moku Nui and jump into the deep waters behind. See p 181.

❺ Whale watching from Makapu‘u Point Lighthouse. The short, paved hike to this working lighthouse gives you a clear view of the Windward coast. But even better, during the winter, you’ll see humpback whales cavorting offshore, sending up spouts of water, flipping their tails and fins as if waving hello, and sometimes breaching out of the water, sending up great big geysers when they land. No matter how many times I drive along this coast and see them, I always have to stop and take a look. See p 166.

❻ Snorkeling among the rainbow-colored fish in the warm waters of Hanauma Bay. I love this underwater park, once a volcanic crater, because it’s teeming with tropical fish and bordered by a 2,000-foot (610m) gold-sand beach. Plus, the bay’s shallow water (10 ft/3m in places) is perfect for neophyte snorkelers. Arrive early to beat the crowds—and be aware that the bay is closed Tuesdays, when the fish have the day off. See p 177.

❼ Hiking to the top of Diamond Head for the perfect view of the island. See Waikīkī and Honolulu from the top of Hawai‘i’s most famous landmark. Nearly everyone can handle this 1.4-mile (2.3km) round-trip hike, which goes up to the top of the 750-foot (229m) volcanic cone, where you have a 360-degree view of O‘ahu. Allow an hour for the trip up and back, bring $1 for the entry fee, and don’t forget your camera. See p 165.

❽ Watching the North Shore’s big waves. When monstrous waves—some 30 feet (9.1m) tall—steamroll into Waimea Bay (Nov–Mar), I head out to the North Shore. You can watch the best surfers in the world paddle out to challenge these freight trains—it’s shocking to see how small they appear in the lip of the giant waves. My favorite part is feeling those waves when they break on the shore—the ground actually shakes, and everyone on the beach is covered with salt-spray mist. And this unforgettable experience doesn’t cost you a dime. See p 178.

❾ Buying a lei in Chinatown. I love the cultural sights to see and exotic experiences to be had in Honolulu’s Chinatown. Wander through this several-square-block area with its jumble of Asian shops offering herbs, Chinese groceries, and acupuncture services, where you’ll hear conversations in Tagalog, Vietnamese, and Cantonese tumbling over each other. Be sure to check out the lei sellers on Maunakea Street (near N. Hotel St.)—you’ll be intoxicated by the fragrant perfumes of the puakenikeni, pikake and tuberose flowers, and ginger leis. Even the most simple plumeria lei is a beautiful, perfumed delight, and costs just $5. See p 120.

❿ Basking in the best sunset you’ll ever see. Anyone can stand on the beach and watch the sun set, but my favorite viewing point for saying aloha ‘oe to the sun is on top of a 1,048-foot (320m) hill named after a sweet potato. Actually, it’s more romantic than it sounds. Puu Ualakaa State Park, at the end of Round Hill Drive, translates into rolling sweet potato hill (the name describes how early Hawaiians harvested the crop). This majestic view of the sunset is not to be missed. See p 21.

Exotic perfumes permeate the air in Chinatown’s lei shops.

⓫ Watching the full moon rise over the ocean. You’ve seen the sunset—now look for the full moon rise. I like to head to the Lanikai Pillboxes around dusk on a full moon night. If the skies are clear, you’ll see the moon begin to peek out over the horizon and start its ascent, sending a glimmering beam along the water. See p 29.

⓬ Ordering a shave ice in a tropical flavor you can hardly pronounce. I think you can actually taste the islands by slurping shave ice. It’s not quite a snow cone, but similar: Ice is shaved so that it’s soft and fluffy, and then drenched in a fruit syrup. My favorite spot is the Local Hawai‘i, where the syrups are made with local fruit, such as liliko‘i (passionfruit) and lychee. See p 95.

⓭ Listening to the soothing sounds of Hawaiian music. Just before sunset, I head for the huge banyan tree at the Moana Surfrider’s Banyan Veranda in Waikīkī, order a libation, and sway to live Hawaiian music. Another quintessential sunset oasis is the Halekulani’s House Without a Key, a sophisticated oceanfront lounge with wonderful hula and steel guitar music, a great view of Diamond Head, and the best mai tais on the island. See p 131.

⓮ Discovering the ancient Hawaiian sport of canoe paddling. For something uniquely Hawaiian, find a comfortable spot at Ala Wai Park, next to the canal, and watch hundreds of canoe paddlers recreate this centuries-old sport of taking traditional Hawaiian canoes out to sea. Or try it yourself off Waikīkī Beach. See p 161.

Sweet, fruity shave ice is an O‘ahu tradition.

⓯ Local and Hawaiian food. Poke, raw fish glistening with soy sauce and sesame oil; laulau, pork wrapped in taro leaves and then swaddled in ti leaves and steamed; malasadas, deep-fried dough dusted in sugar: these are some of the only-in-Hawai‘i favorite foods. They tell the story of Hawai‘i’s history, from the native Hawaiians to the plantation laborers brought to work the sugar and pineapple fields. Hawai‘i is a mishmash of cultures, and there’s no better way to experience it than through its food. See p 95.

⓰ Swimming with dolphins. There are few things more magical than jumping into the ocean and seeing dolphins around you, their sleek bodies gracefully sliding through the water in unison, their high-pitched voices carrying through the water. You might see them right below you, beside you, in front of you, when you jump on one of the Wild Side Tours heading out from the Wai‘anae Coast. See p 182. •

Finding Your Way Around, O‘ahu-Style

Mainlanders sometimes find the directions given by locals a bit confusing. You seldom hear the terms east, west, north, and south; instead, islanders refer to directions as either makai (ma-kae), meaning toward the sea, or mauka (mow-kah), toward the mountains. In Honolulu, people use Diamond Head as a direction meaning to the east (in the direction of the world-famous crater called Diamond Head), and Ewa as a direction meaning to the west (toward the town called Ewa, on the other side of Pearl Harbor).

So, if you ask a local for directions, this is what you’re likely to hear: "Drive 2 blocks makai (toward the sea), then turn Diamond Head (east) at the stoplight. Go 1 block, and turn mauka (toward the mountains). It’s on the Ewa (western) side of the street."

Surfboards lined up in the rack on Waikīkī Beach

Strategies for Seeing O‘ahu

O‘ahu may be an island, but it’s a good-sized island, and your vacation time is precious. There really is just one cardinal rule: Relax. Don’t run yourself ragged trying to see absolutely everything—take the time to experience the magic of the island. In this chapter, I offer several suggestions for making the most of your visit.

Rule #1. Go in the off-season.

Not only will you save a bundle, but there will be fewer people, the beaches will be less crowded, and it’ll be easier to get into your favorite restaurants. The off season, September to November and March to May, is also when the weather is at its best (not too hot, not too rainy).

Rule #2. Think about how you want to spend your vacation.

Is this a lie-on-the-beach vacation or a get-up-early-and-go-on-an-adventure-every-day vacation? Or a combination of the two? Whether you are traveling with your sweetie or you’re bringing your family, make sure that everyone gets in on