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    Memories of a Retired Fell-walker
    Memories of a Retired Fell-walker
    Memories of a Retired Fell-walker
    Ebook96 pages1 hour

    Memories of a Retired Fell-walker

    By Fred Wilson

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    About this ebook

    Memories of a Retired Fell-Walker is a delightful book full of charm, comradeship and nostalgia. Those who walk and love Lakeland fells will enjoy the author’s personal reflections and recollections of many happy hours spent walking in the Lake District on his own, or with friends. This book will also appeal to those who will be enticed to follow the author’s footsteps marvelling at the wonderful scenery. Also, those who can no longer visit the highest mountains can relive past adventures detailed in this book, which are sure to bring back many happy memories.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherMelrose Books
    Release dateAug 17, 2018
    ISBN9781912026333
    Memories of a Retired Fell-walker

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      Book preview

      Memories of a Retired Fell-walker - Fred Wilson

      1.

      South Rake to Dow Crag and the Old Man

      South Rake was the name suggested by the late AW for the Southern Fells. It sprang from the page when I was studying alternative routes up Dow Crag. Always on the lookout for interesting scrambly routes, it seemed a must. It did not disappoint. Bruce was always game for a scramble, so it was with him that I motored north from Wigan on that fine summer’s day.

      From the main car park in Coniston village, the start was up the steep tarmac road leading to the Walna Scar road. I was never one to leave the car at the end of the tarmac. It seemed like cheating somehow. Anyhow, it restricted the return routes. When the tarmac ends, ignore the quarry track to the right (north) and continue south-west on a good track. It’s easy-going, climbing slowly past the miniscule Boo Tarn for a mile from the road end to a crossroad of paths. If you cross over a bridge over the beck, you have missed the turn. Turn right (north-west) heading for Goats Water.

      The scenery soon looks more impressive as you approach the tarn. There’s more quarries on the broad south-west flank of the Old Man to your right, but the eyes will be drawn to the imposing cliffs of Dow Crag on your left. When you stand by Goats Water and stare up at them, you would think there was no way up for the ordinary walker. But there is. But before you move off, get the camera out, with a wide angle lens, for that definitive shot of the crags.

      You will see a track starting from the Dow Crag side of the tarn. Take it to the base of the massive buttresses. Once there, ignore the track to the right. This is the traverse to Goats Hause. Instead, turn left, climbing a stony track across the face of several buttresses and gullies. This is the start of the rake. Follow it as it passes behind an easy buttress on your left, keeping the main crags on your right. There’s no real difficulties, but it is steep and stony underfoot. The rock architecture is truly magnificent. You feel you are on intimate terms with this mighty fortress, and are creeping in on the blind side.

      The Rake brings you out on the ridge just to the south of Dow Crag summit. When Bruce and I emerged, it was much to the amazement of a couple walking the ridge path. They thought we were devils coming up from the bowels of the earth—it must have been our red faces after the climb. Turn right on the ridge and enjoy the airy summit of Dow Crag. It’s exhilarating to peep down the gullies, but take care, it’s a long drop to the tarn. You will be glad of a well-earned rest and to reflect on your ascent. At 2,555ft, it’s just 78ft lower than your next objective, Coniston Old Man, now seen east over Goats Water. Suitably refreshed, take the track north, soon swinging east, to descend 425ft to Goats Hause. You have to start climbing again to gain the broad ridge between Brim Fell and the Old Man. Swing south on the ridge for the easy stroll to the summit, a climb of just over 500ft from the hause. I remember taking Phil, another colleague on his first winter walk, kicking steps up the slopes from Goats Hause. Phil went on to be a real hard man of the hills. You will probably have to fight your way to the trig point through the crowds. It’s a popular spot. Deservedly so, as you will see if you have a clear day. Look for AW’s solitary fell-walker, and go and chat to him. It might be me. I’m always glad of some good conversation.

      The way back takes you past many of man’s scars on this much mutilated mountain. It can never recover. Yet at the same time, it adds an interest it would not otherwise have. We have spent many hours, especially wet ones, exploring old mines and quarries. On the Old Man, you are spoilt for choice. Head SE, then east, past some spoil on your left to the edge of Low Water. The track swings right, down past old quarries, old tunnels, and more spoil heaps into Coppermines Valley itself. The way is steep in places, so take care, or you will end up as another mountain rescue statistic.

      The Paddy End mine was over to the left on the descent, near the outflow from Levers Water. On one visit to this tarn, on a very wild day, we actually saw the waterfall at the outflow going upwards! Below this was the famous Bonsor Level, and where Red Dell Beck swings north, the Red Dell Mine. Copper was the main metal won, but there was also lead, nickel and a little cobalt which was quite rare in the district. In total, the Coniston mines accounted for seventy-five percent of copper mined in the Lake District. The scars are there for all to see.

      The walk returns to Coniston alongside Church Beck with its bubbling cataracts; always worth seeing after heavy rain. You will have had an interesting scramble, good views and industrial archaeology all in the one day.

      Bruce and I did finally reach our first summit of the day, Fleetwith Pike, at 2,126ft, but we did not linger. On a fine day, we would have enjoyed the wonderful views down the entire Buttermere Valley with its two fine lakes. There was lots more to do, so we kept as high as possible, south, then north-west to finally arrive at the Haystacks. I have been there since AW’s passing, alone at Innominate Tarn, and paid my respects. Maybe I will join him one day. Bruce found Haystacks a fascinating place. With all its humps and hollows, it’s only 1,800ft, but it’s all character. The view of Great Gable, as a backcloth to the tarns, is unforgettable, as is that of upper Ennerdale, if only you will walk a few dozen yards to the west from the summit cairn. There’s a tricky bit on the descent to the depression of Scarth Gap, 1,425ft, so please take care. Then more collar work, so you might consider a break before the climb.

      Continuing on a north-west bearing,

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