Published 2017

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

FROM THE PENTLANDS LOOKING NORTH AND SOUTH

THE COMPANY OF THE MARJOLAINE

AVIGNON

A LUCID INTERVAL

THE SHORTER CATECHISM

THE LEMNIAN

ATTA'S SONG

SPACE

STOCKS AND STONES

STREAMS OF WATER IN THE SOUTH

THE GIPSY'S SONG TO THE LADY CASSILIS

THE GROVE OF ASHTAROTH

WOOD MAGIC

THE RIDING OF NINEMILEBURN

PLAIN FOLK

THE KINGS OF ORION

BABYLON

THE RIME OF TRUE THOMAS

FROM THE PENTLANDS LOOKING NORTH AND SOUTH

Around my feet the clouds are drawn

In the cold mystery of the dawn;

No breezes cheer, no guests intrude

My mossy, mist-clad solitude;

When sudden down the steeps of sky

Flames a long, lightening wind. On high

The steel-blue arch shines clear, and far,

In the low lands where cattle are,

Towns smoke. And swift, a haze, a gleam,—

The Firth lies like a frozen stream,

Reddening with morn. Tall spires of ships,

Like thorns about the harbour's lips,

Now shake faint canvas, now, asleep,

Their salt, uneasy slumbers keep;

While golden-grey, o'er kirk and wall,

Day wakes in the ancient capital.

Before me lie the lists of strife,

The caravanserai of life,

Whence from the gates the merchants go

On the world's highways; to and fro

Sail laiden ships; and in the street

The lone foot-traveller shakes his feet,

And in some corner by the fire

Tells the old tale of heart's desire.

Thither from alien seas and skies

Comes the far-questioned merchandise:—

Wrought silks of Broussa, Mocha's ware

Brown-tinted, fragrant, and the rare

Thin perfumes that the rose's breath

Has sought, immortal in her death:

Gold, gems, and spice, and haply still

The red rough largess of the hill

Which takes the sun and bears the vines

Among the haunted Apennines.

And he who treads the cobbled street

To-day in the cold North may meet,

Come month, come year, the dusky East,

And share the Caliph's secret feast;

Or in the toil of wind and sun

Bear pilgrim-staff, forlorn, fordone,

Till o'er the steppe, athwart the sand

Gleam the far gates of Samarkand.

The ringing quay, the weathered face

Fair skies, dusk hands, the ocean race

The palm-girt isle, the frosty shore,

Gales and hot suns the wide world o'er

Grey North, red South, and burnished West

The goals of the old tireless quest,

Leap in the smoke, immortal, free,

Where shines yon morning fringe of sea

I turn, and lo! the moorlands high

Lie still and frigid to the sky.

The film of morn is silver-grey

On the young heather, and away,

Dim, distant, set in ribs of hill,

Green glens are shining, stream and mill,

Clachan and kirk and garden-ground,

All silent in the hush profound

Which haunts alone the hills' recess,

The antique home of quietness.

Nor to the folk can piper play

The tune of Hills and Far Away,

For they are with them. Morn can fire

No peaks of weary heart's desire,

Nor the red sunset flame behind

Some ancient ridge of longing mind.

For Arcady is here, around,

In lilt of stream, in the clear sound

Of lark and moorbird, in the bold

Gay glamour of the evening gold,

And so the wheel of seasons moves

To kirk and market, to mild loves

And modest hates, and still the sight

Of brown kind faces, and when night

Draws dark around with age and fear

Theirs is the simple hope to cheer.—

A land of peace where lost romance

And ghostly shine of helm and lance

Still dwell by castled scarp and lea,

And the last homes of chivalry,

And the good fairy folk, my dear,

Who speak for cunning souls to hear,

In crook of glen and bower of hill

Sing of the Happy Ages still.

O Thou to whom man's heart is known,

Grant me my morning orison.

Grant me the rover's path—to see

The dawn arise, the daylight flee,

In the far wastes of sand and sun!

Grant me with venturous heart to run

On the old highway, where in pain

And ecstasy man strives amain,

Conquers his fellows, or, too weak,

Finds the great rest that wanderers seek!

Grant me the joy of wind and brine,

The zest of food, the taste of wine,

The fighter's strength, the echoing strife

The high tumultuous lists of life—

May I ne'er lag, nor hapless fall,

Nor weary at the battle-call!...

But when the even brings surcease,

Grant me the happy moorland peace;

That in my heart's depth ever lie

That ancient land of heath and sky,

Where the old rhymes and stories fall

In kindly, soothing pastoral.

There in the hills grave silence lies,

And Death himself wears friendly guise

There be my lot, my twilight stage,

Dear city of my pilgrimage.

THE COMPANY OF THE MARJOLAINE

"Qu'est-c'qui passe ici si tard,

Compagnons de la Marjolaine,"

—CHANSONS DE FRANCE

...I came down from the mountain and into the pleasing valley of the Adige in as pelting a heat as ever mortal suffered under. The way underfoot was parched and white; I had newly come out of a wilderness of white limestone crags, and a sun of Italy blazed blindingly in an azure Italian sky. You are to suppose, my dear aunt, that I had had enough and something more of my craze for foot-marching. A fortnight ago I had gone to Belluno in a post-chaise, dismissed my fellow to carry my baggage by way of Verona, and with no more than a valise on my back plunged into the fastnesses of those mountains. I had a fancy to see the little sculptured hills which made backgrounds for Gianbellini, and there were rumours of great mountains built wholly of marble which shone like the battlements.

...1 This extract from the unpublished papers of the Manorwater family has seemed to the Editor worth printing for its historical interest. The famous Lady Molly Carteron became Countess of Manorwater by her second marriage. She was a wit and a friend of wits, and her nephew, the Honourable Charles Hervey-Townshend (afterwards our Ambassador at The Hague), addressed to her a series of amusing letters while making, after the fashion of his contemporaries, the Grand Tour of Europe. Three letters, written at various places in the Eastern Alps and despatched from Venice, contain the following short narrative....

of the Celestial City. So at any rate reported young Mr. Wyndham, who had travelled with me from Milan to Venice. I lay the first night at Pieve, where Titian had the fortune to be born, and the landlord at the inn displayed a set of villainous daubs which he swore were the early works of that master. Thence up a toilsome valley I journeyed to the Ampezzan country, valley where indeed I saw my white mountains, but, alas! no longer Celestial. For it rained like Westmorland for five endless days, while I kicked my heels in an inn and turned a canto of Aristo into halting English couplets. By-and-by it cleared, and I headed westward towards Bozen, among the tangle of rocks where the Dwarf King had once his rose-garden. The first night I had no inn but slept in the vile cabin of a forester, who spoke a tongue half Latin, half Dutch, which I failed to master. The next day was a blaze of heat, the mountain-paths lay thick with dust, and I had no wine from sunrise to sunset. Can you wonder that, when the following noon I saw Santa Chiara sleeping in its green circlet of meadows, my thought was only of a deep draught and a cool chamber? I protest that I am a great lover of natural beauty, of rock and cascade, and all the properties of the poet: but the enthusiasm of Rousseau himself would sink from the stars to earth if he had marched since breakfast in a cloud of dust with a throat like the nether millstone.

Yet I had not entered the place before Romance revived. The little town—a mere wayside halting-place on the great mountain-road to the North—had the air of mystery which foretells adventure. Why is it that a dwelling or a countenance catches the fancy with the promise of some strange destiny? I have houses in my mind which I know will some day and somehow be intertwined oddly with my life; and I have faces in memory of which I know nothing—save that I shall undoubtedly cast eyes again upon them. My first glimpses of Santa Chiara gave me this earnest of romance. It was walled and fortified, the streets were narrow pits of shade, old tenements with bent fronts swayed to meet each other. Melons lay drying on flat roofs, and yet now and then would come a high-pitched northern gable. Latin and Teuton met and mingled in the place, and, as Mr. Gibbon has taught us, the offspring of this admixture is something fantastic and unpredictable. I forgot my grievous thirst and my tired feet in admiration and a certain vague expectation of wonders. Here, ran my thought, it is fated, maybe, that romance and I shall at last compass a meeting. Perchance some princess is in need of my arm, or some affair of high policy is afoot in this jumble of old masonry. You will laugh at my folly, but I had an excuse for it. A fortnight in strange mountains disposes a man to look for something at his next encounter with his kind, and the sight of Santa Chiara would have fired the imagination of a judge in Chancery.

I strode happily into the courtyard of the Tre Croci, and presently had my expectation confirmed for I found my fellow,—a faithful rogue I got in Rome on a Cardinal's recommendation,—hot in dispute with a lady's maid. The woman was old, harsh-featured—no Italian clearly, though she spoke fluently in the tongue. She rated my man like a pickpocket, and the dispute was over a room.

The signor will bear me out, said Gianbattista. Was not I sent to Verona with his baggage, and thence to this place of ill manners? Was I not bidden engage for him a suite of apartments? Did I not duly choose these fronting on the gallery, and dispose therein the signor's baggage? And lo! an hour ago I found it all turned into the yard and this woman installed in its place. It is monstrous, unbearable! Is this an inn for travellers, or haply the private mansion of these Magnificences?

My servant speaks truly, I said firmly yet with courtesy, having no mind to spoil adventure by urging rights. He had orders to take these rooms for me, and I know not what higher power can countermand me.

The woman had been staring at me scornfully, for no doubt in my dusty habit I was a figure of small count; but at the sound of my voice she started, and cried out, You are English, signor?

I bowed an admission. Then my mistress shall speak with you, she said, and dived into the inn like an elderly rabbit.

Gianbattista was for sending for the landlord and making a riot in that hostelry; but I stayed him, and bidding him fetch me a flask of white wine, three lemons, and a glass of eau de vie, I sat down peaceably at one of the little tables in the courtyard and prepared for the quenching of my thirst. Presently, as I sat drinking that excellent compound of my own invention, my shoulder was touched, and I turned to find the maid and her mistress. Alas for my hopes of a glorious being, young and lissom and bright with the warm riches of the south! I saw a short, stout little lady, well on the wrong side of thirty. She had plump red cheeks, and fair hair dressed indifferently in the Roman fashion. Two candid blue eyes redeemed her plainness, and a certain grave and gentle dignity. She was notably a gentlewoman, so I got up, doffed my hat, and awaited her commands.

She spoke in Italian. Your pardon, signor, but I fear my good Cristine has done you unwittingly a wrong.

Cristine snorted at this premature plea of guilty, while I hastened to assure the fair apologist that any rooms I might have taken were freely at her service.

I spoke unconsciously in English, and she replied in a halting parody of that tongue. I understand him, she said, but I do not speak him happily. I will discourse, if the signor pleases, in our first speech.

She and her father, it appeared, had come over the Brenner, and arrived that morning at the Tre Croci, where they purposed to lie for some days. He was an old man, very feeble, and much depending upon her constant care. Wherefore it was necessary that the rooms of all the party should adjoin, and there was no suite of the size in the inn save that which I had taken. Would I therefore consent to forgo my right, and place her under an eternal debt?

I agreed most readily, being at all times careless where I sleep, so the bed be clean, or where I eat, so the meal be good. I bade my servant see the landlord and have my belongings carried to other rooms. Madame thanked me sweetly, and would have gone, when a thought detained her.

It is but courteous, she said, that you should know the names of those whom you have befriended. My father is called the Count d'Albani, and I am his only daughter. We travel to Florence, where we have a villa in the environs.

My name, said I, is Hervey-Townshend, an Englishman travelling abroad for his entertainment.

Hervey? she repeated. Are you one of the family of Miladi Hervey?

My worthy aunt, I replied, with a tender recollection of that preposterous woman.

Madame turned to Cristine, and spoke rapidly in a whisper.

My father, sir, she said, addressing me, is an old frail man, little used to the company of strangers; but in former days he has had kindness from members of your house, and it would be a satisfaction to him, I think, to have the privilege of your acquaintance.

She spoke with the air of a vizier who promises a traveller a sight of the Grand Turk. I murmured my gratitude, and hastened after Gianbattista. In an hour I had bathed, rid myself of my beard, and arrayed myself in decent clothing. Then I strolled out to inspect the little city, admired an altar-piece, chaffered with a Jew for a cameo, purchased some small necessaries, and returned early in the afternoon with a noble appetite for dinner.

The Tre Croci had been in happier days a Bishop's lodging, and possessed a dining-hall ceiled with black oak and adorned with frescos. It was used as a general salle a manger for all dwellers in the inn, and there accordingly I sat down to my long-deferred meal. At first there were no other diners, and I had two maids, as well as Gianbattista, to attend on my wants. Presently Madame d'Albani entered, escorted by Cristine and by a tall gaunt serving-man, who seemed no part of the hostelry. The landlord followed, bowing civilly, and the two women seated themselves at the little table at the farther end. Il Signor Conte dines in his room, said Madame to the host, who withdrew to see to that gentleman's needs.

I found my eyes straying often to the little party in the cool twilight of that refectory. The man-servant was so old and battered, and of such a dignity, that he lent a touch of intrigue to the thing. He stood stiffly behind Madame's chair, handing dishes with an air of great reverence—the lackey of a great noble, if I had ever seen the type. Madame never glanced toward me, but conversed sparingly with Cristine, while she pecked delicately at her food. Her name ran in my head with a tantalizing flavour of the familiar. Albani! D'Albani! It was a name not uncommon in the Roman States, but I had never heard it linked to a noble family. And yet I had somehow, somewhere; and in the vain effort at recollection I had almost forgotten my hunger. There was nothing bourgeois in the little lady. The austere servants, the high manner of condescension, spake of a stock used to deference, though, maybe, pitifully decayed in its fortunes. There was a mystery in these quiet folk which tickled my curiosity. Romance after all was not destined to fail me at Santa Chiara.

My doings of the afternoon were of interest to me alone. Suffice it to say that when at nightfall I found Gianbattista the trustee of a letter. It was from Madame, written in a fine thin hand on a delicate paper, and it invited me to wait upon the signor her father, that evening at eight o'clock. What caught my eye was a coronet stamped in a corner. A coronet, I say, but in truth it was a crown, the same as surmounts the Arms Royal of England on the sign-board of a Court tradesman. I marvelled at the ways of foreign heraldry. Either this family of d'Albani had higher pretensions than I had given it credit for, or it employed an unlearned and imaginative stationer. I scribbled a line of acceptance and went to dress.

The hour of eight found me knocking at the Count's door. The grim serving-man admitted me to the pleasant chamber which should have been mine own. A dozen wax candles burned in sconces, and on the table among fruits and the remains of supper stood a handsome candelabra of silver. A small fire of logs had been lit on the hearth, and before it in an armchair sat a strange figure of a man. He seemed not so much old as aged. I should have put him at sixty, but the marks he bore were clearly less those of time than of life. There sprawled before me the relics of noble looks. The fleshy nose, the pendulous cheek, the drooping mouth, had once been cast in looks of manly beauty. Heavy eyebrows above and heavy bags beneath spoiled the effect of a choleric blue eye, which age had not dimmed. The man was gross and yet haggard; it was not the padding of good living which clothed his bones, but a heaviness as of some dropsical malady. I could picture him in health a gaunt loose-limbed being, high-featured and swift and eager. He was dressed wholly in black velvet, with fresh ruffles and wristbands, and he wore heeled shoes with antique silver buckles. It was a figure of an older age which rose to greet me, in one hand a snuff-box and a purple handkerchief, and in the other a book with finger marking place. He made me a great bow as Madame uttered my name, and held out a hand with a kindly smile.

Mr. Hervey-Townshend, he said, we will speak English, if you please. I am fain to hear it again, for 'tis a tongue I love. I make you welcome, sir, for your own sake and for the sake of your kin. How is her honourable ladyship, your aunt? A week ago she sent me a letter.

I answered that she did famously, and wondered what cause of correspondence my worthy aunt could have with wandering nobles of Italy.

He motioned me to a chair between Madame and himself, while a servant set a candle on a shelf behind him. Then he proceeded to catechise me in excellent English, with now and then a phrase of French, as to the doings in my own land. Admirably informed this Italian gentleman proved himself. I defy you to find in Almack's more intelligent gossip. He inquired as to the chances of my Lord North and the mind of my Lord Rockingham. He had my Lord Shelburne's foibles at his fingers' ends. The habits of the Prince, the aims of the their ladyships of Dorset and Buckingham, the extravagance of this noble Duke and that right honourable gentleman were not hid from him. I answered discreetly yet frankly, for there was no ill-breeding in his curiosity. Rather it seemed like the inquiries of