PART I

HUB CITY: SEATTLE

There is so much maritime history in Washington’s largest and most populated city, it could be tempting to limit how far a visitor is willing to explore. However, given the sheer number of fascinating attractions within a day’s short drive, it would be a mistake not to venture a bit farther to see what lies just down the road.

Seattle was, at one time, just another tiny settlement struggling for permanence. The city is named after siʔaɫ, a pivotal leader among the Indigenous Duwamish and Suquamish peoples. However, it was also known as New York, New York Alki (a Chinook Jargon word that translates to by and by) and Duwamps to settlers in the mid-1800s.

When the first non-Native people landed in what is now West Seattle in November 1851, they brought with them just over twenty men, women and children from the Willamette Valley near present-day Portland, Oregon. Though not the first white people to set foot in the area, they were the first permanent non-Indian residents. Today, a historical marker along Alki Avenue SW at the northern end of Sixty-Third Avenue SW denotes the approximate landing site. By late 1852, more settlers began calling the small community home—including Dr. David Maynard, who convinced his new neighbors to name the settlement after Seattle, and Henry Yesler, an industrialist who built the area’s first steam-powered sawmill.

Seattle has endured its share of difficulties throughout history. In 1856, the so-called Battle of Seattle pitted a handful of local tribal warriors against a barrage of artillery from the U.S. Navy sloop Decatur during the Treaty Wars. The twelve-hour conflict was fairly inconsequential, but it frightened many of Seattle’s early residents into permanently relocating. By the time the lumber mills had backfilled their workforce and resumed activity, they were joined by new mining and fishing businesses that also depended on sea transportation.

Labor riots and racial intolerance in the 1880s led to economic depression in the early 1890s, which faded quickly with the Klondike Gold Rush of 1897. Seattle reinvented itself as the Gateway to Alaska, as tens of thousands of gold-hungry prospectors flooded into the city en route to the Yukon gold fields. Entrepreneurs capitalized by selling supplies and services to miners waiting for ships heading north, and soon Seattle’s population swelled from about forty-two thousand in 1890 to nearly half a million people by 1910. Even the Great Seattle Fire of 1899, which leveled over one hundred acres of the city’s business district, did not seem to dissuade residents from evolving their growing community.

Through its bust periods and its boom periods, Seattle has always weathered the storms of time by relying on its maritime resources. In the earliest days, when mining, fishing and timber dominated the economy, those commodities had to be shipped to be profitable, which employed a small army of dockworkers, boat captains and crew. Seattle has also had a steady stream of seafood-related industries, whether catching, processing, canning or distributing the product. These early commercial activities grew the Port of Seattle from its creation in 1913 into the fifth-busiest cargo-moving operation in the country, seeing tens of billions of dollars in commodities imported and exported annually.

The need to traverse western Washington’s unique waterways gave rise to a fleet of transportation vessels so active that they looked to some like a swarm of mosquitoes on the Puget Sound—hence the nickname the Mosquito Fleet. During wartime, Seattle’s shipbuilding industry, led by Robert Moran and the Moran Brothers Shipyard, rivaled that of other major American port cities like Baltimore and San Francisco. And recently, Seattle has become a travel destination for international cruise ships filled with visitors looking to experience the natural beauty and salty wonder of the Pacific Northwest.

Lighthouse enthusiasts will appreciate the impressive selection of historic beacons, such as the West Point Lighthouse (1881), the Alki Point Lighthouse (1913) and the Point Robinson Lighthouse on nearby Maury Island (1884). Seattle also boasts an active U.S. Coast Guard base, which includes the Coast Guard Museum Northwest, home to an impressive collection of lighthouse memorabilia, nautical items, ship models, historical photographs and the area’s largest public collection of Coast Guard patches. Visitors can request a free pass from the sentry at the gate and find the museum on base at Pier 36, 1519 South Alaskan Way.

MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND INDUSTRY

One of the first stops a maritime visitor to Seattle should make is at the Museum of History and Industry (known locally as MOHAI and pronounced MOW-high), 860 North Terry Avenue at the south end of Lake Union. Set in the historic Naval Reserve Building that once housed thousands of sailors training for World War II, the remodeled structure is now home to a modern museum dedicated to collecting and preserving artifacts and stories of the Puget Sound region’s diverse history. In addition to absorbing a thorough education on Seattle’s storied past, visitors can also take in exhibits and programs that highlight the city’s present conditions and offer insight into its future.

Located in the heart of downtown Seattle, South Lake Union Park is the maritime heritage hub of Puget Sound. It is the home of the Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI), Northwest Seaport and its fleet of historic ships (lower right) and the Center for Wooden Boats (lower left). Brian Morris.

Visitors to MOHAI can tour dozens of exhibits to get the complete perspective of Seattle’s maritime and historical evolution, from its Indigenous cultures through the founding of Amazon and Microsoft. One of the most visually impressive maritime exhibits greets patrons in the main hall: an unmissable eleven-thousand-pound, sixty-four-foot-high sculpture named Wawona, after a historic 1897 schooner that holds a special place in the city’s heart. The sculpture is made of over two hundred wood panels salvaged from the ship before it was scrapped in 2009 and is meant to conjure the image of a sailing ship’s hull while invoking the impression of an old-growth tree.

When first launched, Wawona was North America’s largest-ever three-masted schooner at 166 feet long with a 36-foot beam and a full crew of over thirty men. Named after a Native American word for spotted owl, Wawona made Washington its home port beginning in 1914 after spending nearly two decades hauling lumber up and down the Pacific coast. In the 1920s, an Anacortes company purchased the ship and refitted it for cod fishing. Plying the waters off Alaska’s coast and the Bering Sea, Wawona could stay out for up to six months before returning with record-setting numbers of fish. According to HistoryLink.org, the ship set the all-time total catch record by a single vessel in the 1940s: 6,830,400.

During World War II, the military refitted Wawona to haul cargo to remote Alaskan outposts and return with lumber for the aviation industry, but by the time the war ended, technology had outpaced the ship’s usefulness. The schooner, old but not yet historical, sat unused and deteriorating for decades. In the 1960s, a dedicated group of citizens (that later became the Northwest Seaport organization) purchased the ship, intending to convert it into a maritime museum—a noble but complicated pursuit. For another twenty years, Wawona languished in port as supporters tried in vain to raise enough to restore it to a manageable condition. During that time, the ship became a National Historic Site as well as an official Seattle landmark; however, nothing could stop the relentless march of time.

In 2009, despite every last-minute attempt to rescue the aging vessel, Wawona was finally dismantled. Local artist John Grade salvaged parts of the ship to create the nearly five-story lobby sculpture greeting visitors to MOHAI, which is all that remains of the once-proud vestige of Washington’s timber and fishing heritage.

Once part of the Northwest Seaport heritage fleet, the schooner Wawona is shown here carrying a full load of lumber down the Pacific coast to California in 1899. Northwest Seaport.

Following the sculpture from ground to ceiling will surprise visitors with a hidden gem awaiting them on the top floor at MOHAI. The Puget Sound Maritime Historical Society maintains a permanent exhibit there that explores the various water-related activities associated with the city, the Puget Sound and the Pacific Northwest. Patrons can peer into a World War II–era submarine periscope that extends through the roof of the building to get a 360-degree view of the South Lake Union area. Maritime enthusiasts can learn about Seattle’s remarkable shipbuilding history—including the Moran Brothers Company, which built the World War I battleship USS Nebraska—and get an up-close view of the 1885 Fresnel lens that once guided ships through the Strait of Juan de Fuca from the long-gone Smith Island lighthouse just west of Whidbey Island. One of the most entertaining components of the maritime exhibit is a digital interactive table that immerses the participant in the role of a Mosquito Fleet ship captain in a race against another passenger vessel—a friendly competition that was quite common when steamships plied the waters of Puget Sound.

HISTORIC SHIPS WHARF

Perhaps the best place to see one of the last remaining Mosquito Fleet ships is just outside MOHAI along Historic Ships Wharf at the north end of Lake Union Park, home to a half-dozen historically significant vessels. Visitors can stroll along the wharf reading about the histories of these ships and photographing them and even take a tour. In the first slip resides the steamer Virginia V, a National Historic Landmark. Virginia V (known as Virginia Five today, or Virginia Vee to the remaining few who experienced the ship in its heyday) is a century-old Mosquito Fleet steamship constructed from locally sourced old-growth fir. The fifth to carry the Virginia moniker, Vee began servicing the Seattle-Tacoma route in 1922, ferrying thousands of passengers across Puget Sound until 1942. For a time, Virginia V worked on the Columbia River shuttling passengers from Portland to Astoria, Oregon, but the ship struggled to reinvent itself in an increasingly gasoline-powered world.

By 1976, a nonprofit organization called the Steamer Virginia V Foundation formed to purchase and preserve the aging vessel and successfully raised the funds to do so. In 1995, Virginia V began receiving a complete overhaul, which lasted several years. In 2002, the restored and refitted Virginia V returned to service on the Puget Sound as a charter vessel and maritime festival participant, allowing enthusiasts to have one of the most uniquely Northwest experiences available in Washington today.

Floating right beside Virginia V is the tugboat Arthur Foss, more than thirty years older than its Mosquito Fleet neighbor. In fact, it’s the oldest vessel still afloat in the Pacific Northwest. Built in 1889, the same year Washington received statehood, Arthur Foss is one of the founding members of a vast fleet of tugs built by the Foss Launch and Tug Company (known today as Foss Maritime). At one time, its job was to shepherd sailing vessels across the treacherous Columbia River Bar into Astoria. During the Klondike Gold Rush, Arthur Foss towed barges to and from the gold fields in Alaska, and in 1933, it was featured in the film Tugboat Annie, based loosely on the life of Tacoma businesswoman Thea Foss, the company’s founder and namesake.

In 1941, Arthur Foss was one of the last ships to leave Wake Island before the Japanese invasion; another ship in the Foss fleet remained behind and was captured. After the war, Arthur Foss continued its company service until its retirement in 1968. Two years later, Foss Maritime donated the ship to Northwest Seaport, which found more success restoring the tug than it had restoring Wawona. Arthur Foss became a National Historic Landmark in 1989, its centennial year, and is currently open for tours and public enjoyment throughout the year.

Next in the lineup are two unique service vessels that each played a part in the history of western Washington—the fireboat Duwamish, which protected Seattle’s wooden waterfront from 1909 to 1985, and Lightship No. 83 Swiftsure, a floating beacon to help guide maritime vessels where no lighthouses could be built. For ninety-four years, Duwamish was the world’s most powerful fireboat, able to pump 22,800 gallons of water per minute through its nozzles. Just four years after it launched, Duwamish was integral in fighting the Grand Trunk Pacific dock fire on the Seattle waterfront, which leveled the structure in just two hours. The blaze resulted in dozens of injuries and several deaths, but it did not spread to the neighboring Colman dock, thanks to Duwamish’s efforts. Duwamish now serves as a museum ship to tell the story of Seattle’s maritime firefighting history.

Swiftsure, one of the more unique ships to behold, is the oldest of its kind in the United States. Launched in 1904, Lightship No. 83 (as it’s officially known) protected sailors up and down the Pacific coast until 1960 and still retains its original steam engine. Lightships were traditionally named after the station to which they were assigned but were given numerical identifiers in 1867 to make recordkeeping easier. Swiftsure’s last point of service was off the Swiftsure Bank in the Strait of Juan de Fuca between Washington and Vancouver Island, Canada. During its period of service, Lightship No. 83 was known successively as Blunts Reef, San Francisco, Relief and Swiftsure, and it helped rescue hundreds of people from dozens of stranded and sinking ships. It is currently undergoing a massive restoration, courtesy of Northwest Seaport. Both Duwamish and Swiftsure are official Seattle Landmarks as well as National Historic Landmarks.

Rounding out this historical cast of characters is the latest addition to Historic Ships Wharf. The schooner Tordenskjold was built in 1911 in Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood. It spent over a century fishing the North Pacific for halibut, cod, tuna, crab, shrimp and more. Tordenskjold—affectionately called Tordie—retired from service in 2012 and was donated to Northwest Seaport five years