Dyeing Yarn Naturally
By Ria Burns
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About this ebook
Ria Burns
Ria Burns is a sustainable knitwear designer-maker who specialises in working with local wool and natural dyes. She has created thousands of colour samples and dye recipes, and her research into plants and colour is widely recognised. Ria teaches natural dyeing and machine knitting workshops.
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Dyeing Yarn Naturally - Ria Burns
INTRODUCTION
Natural dyeing is an ancient craft with a rich, global heritage. Before synthetic dyes were invented in the 1800s, dyeing with natural materials was the only way to impart colour onto cloth. Red cloth dyed with madder root was found in Egypt in the tomb of Tutankhamun, and blue pigment obtained from woad leaves has been used since the Neolithic times.
Whilst their use dwindled through industrialisation, interest in natural dyes never went away, with artisans such as Ethel Mairet continuing to champion the art. Describing natural dyes, she said, ‘strong and beautiful colour, such as used to abound in all every day things, is an essential to the full joy of life’ (A Book on Vegetable Dyes, 1916).
In recent years natural dyeing has gained popularity once again as makers, designers and consumers become more curious as to how their clothing and textiles are made, where the materials are sourced and how they are dyed. People are seeking natural, sustainable alternatives and in doing so are returning to the traditional materials and methods while adding a contemporary flair.
The dye samples created in the making of this book – covering a huge range of natural colour.
Yarn is the first ingredient in making woven and knitted cloth, the foundation of making textiles. Whatever your planned use for your dyed yarn, by choosing to dye the yarn yourself naturally you are taking increased ownership of your process and deepening your understanding of, and connection to, your materials while learning a new skill.
WHY NATURAL DYES?
Natural dyes are a sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes. Most synthetic dyes are derived from petrochemicals, a huge pollutant and contributor to global carbon emissions.
Along with the sustainability credentials, the colours from natural dyes have an indescribable richness and depth to them. Colours that would traditionally clash in synthetically dyed yarns, work together harmoniously when dyed with plants.
A conceptual modular knitted piece using wool yarns dyed with weld, coreopsis, indigo and avocado pits.
There is often a misconception that natural dyes are dull, producing beiges and browns. Whilst it is true that you can achieve attractive shades of beige and browns with plants, you can also dye nearly-neon yellows with weld, obnoxious oranges with cosmos, and tropical turquoises with indigo.
Choosing to dye your own yarn rather than buying it pre-dyed adds an extra level to the personal nature of yarn crafting. You will create a beautifully coloured yarn that is uniquely yours for use in your projects.
MY JOURNEY
I am a knitwear designer-maker who specialises in working with local wool and natural dyes. As a sustainable maker it is important for me to work in ways that tread lightly on the planet, which led me to investigate the supply chains of the yarns I was using – the raw materials they were sourced from, how they were processed and how they were dyed.
Machine-knitted cropped wool jumper dyed with eucalyptus, coreopsis, indigo and alder cones.
This research led to me choosing to work to a traceable, local system, adopting the Fibershed mission of ‘local fibres, local dyes and local labour’. I have taken my supply chain into my own hands, sourcing my yarn directly from a local, regenerative farm, and growing natural dye plants in my back garden.
My first forays into natural dyeing were using kitchen waste such as avocado and onion skins, and when I saw the amazing colour of the yarn from the experiments, I was immediately hooked! Since then, there have been several years of obsessive research into plants and colour, thousands of colour samples and dye recipes created and tweaked – which have all culminated in this book. I am delighted to share this passion, knowledge and experience with you.
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
This book is aimed at complete beginners, and is structured as a step-by-step guide, guiding you through the process of dyeing yarn naturally from start to finish. First we will look at sourcing your materials and equipment, then move on to preparing your yarn and the dyeing process. We’ll then investigate a broad range of natural dye plants and the colours that can be achieved through different applications. Starting from the basics we will slowly move onto more advanced skills, so that by the end of the book you will be a confident and competent natural yarn dyer, with the ability to go out and forage/source your own dyes, or perhaps even grow them yourself.
A high summer harvest from the dye garden – dahlia, Coreopsis tinctoria, sulphur cosmos and scabious ‘Black Knight’.
Naturally dyed yarns drying in the dye garden, dyed with cosmos, indigo, avocado pits and weld.
I recommend you read through the book first before undertaking any dyeing. As exciting as it can be to jump in and try a project straight away, poor preparation will produce unsatisfactory results. Natural dyeing is a slow, meditative process that you should embrace – slow down from hectic modern life and enjoy the mindfulness of working with nature! You can then refer back to this book whilst you are working on a project and be guided through the process with confidence.
When referring to natural dyes in this book I am referring to plant-based dyes. There are other categories such as insect, mollusc, fungi and lichen that fit under the umbrella of natural dyes, but they are not included in this book as they generally require different preparation and dyeing methods, and can be rare and tricky to source.
I have made this book to be not only educational, but to be inspiring and spark ideas about how dyeing yarn naturally can transform your textile practice into a more colourful, mindful and sustainable one. Despite practising the craft for many years, the sheer joy I feel every time I see the colour from plants impart itself onto yarn is the same as the first time – and I hope you will feel that too.
CHAPTER 1
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
The first step in dyeing yarn naturally is to gather your materials and equipment. You don’t need to spend a large amount on lots of equipment and buy everything detailed in this chapter straight away, but investing in a few basic supplies will enable you to get started and create your first batch of naturally dyed yarn.
This chapter details everything needed – from yarns and dyes to pots and pH strips, with advice about how to source all of them. Ensure you have everything you need in advance of starting dyeing, so that when you are ready to dye the process will be smooth and uninterrupted. There is a list of suppliers at the back of this book.
FIBRE CHOICE
Selecting your fibre has an impact on how you prepare the yarn for dyeing, and the final dye result. Consider what you would like to make with the dyed yarn, and select a fibre that is suitable for this. You may also want to consider the sustainability impact of your fibre choice – for example, I work with sheep’s wool as it is a readily available, traceable fibre for me as a knitwear designer in the UK.
Fibre is a catch-all term for materials that can be dyed, and can include raw fleece, spun yarn, thread or cloth. In this book we are focusing on dyeing yarn, but the methodologies outlined can easily be applied to other fibre formats.
Plants and yarn are the main ingredients needed for natural yarn dyeing, but you will need to source some other equipment and materials.
The natural base colour of your yarn will impact the end dye result. Bleached white yarns will produce the most vibrant results; however, unbleached, naturally white yarns add depth of colour and heathery tones that complement the natural dye well. Even darker coloured yarns from brown sheep will take dye well – you will be surprised! Working with natural greys, beiges and browns derived from plant or animal fibres can drastically expand your range of colours with just a single dye plant.
The fibres can be split into three categories: protein, cellulose and synthetic.
Protein and cellulose fibres
As a general rule, protein fibres are easier to prepare and dye, and the end