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    Night Stand: Online Extras

    Uploaded by

    David Tuaine

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Night Stand: Online Extras

    Uploaded by

    David Tuaine
    66 views2 pages

    Original Title

    41 Nightstand

    Copyright

    © Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)

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    PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

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    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    66 views2 pages

    Night Stand: Online Extras

    Uploaded by

    David Tuaine

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 2

    w041_online.

    night stand

    2/6/2005

    4:05 PM

    Page 26

    Online Extras

    Night Stand
    change the style with a cove moulding top and pedestal base
    By simply making a new top and base, you can give the night stand a more classic look. And then, adding a few edge treatments to the base and top will make them stand out to complete the change. I finished both assemblies the same as the case. By the way, the knobs on the drawer and door are also finished this way. BUILT UP TOP . Instead of a single top panel shown in the magazine, I went with a built-up style by adding a frame beneath it, as you can see in the drawing below. The frame is mitred at the front and then has a 12.7mm-radius cove routed into the front and sides, as you can see in detail a. The new top panel is the same size as the original, but instead of a crisp chamfer, I routed a 6.35mm roundover on the bottom edges of the top (except the back edge) to complement the cove moulding below it. On the top edges, simply ease the sharp edges with some sandpaper. When it comes time to attach the new top to the case, youll have to add an additional step. First, the
    507

    cove frame needs to be screwed to the top panel. I drilled oversize holes and used washers and roundhead screws to allow the top to expand and contract, as illustrated in detail a. This assembly can then be screwed to the case.

    482 18
    A

    TOP

    Drill and countersink from below for 8g x 32 c/s woodscrews


    D

    222 476 400

    FRAME FILLER

    90

    90 315 16 25

    25

    a.

    TOP
    A

    6.35 18

    37
    B

    8g x 32 Rh woodscrews with washers (through cove frame into top)

    COVE FRAME FRONT (495 x 90)

    8g x 32 c/s woodscrews
    C

    18

    B C

    6.35 roundover 12.7 cove

    8g x 32 Rh woodscrews with washers (through case top into cove frame)

    8mm-dia. through holes with 25mm-dia. x 6mm-deep counterbore

    COVE FRAME SIDE

    Case top 8g x 32mm Rh woodscrews with washers

    NOTE: Cove frame sides, cove frame front, and frame filler are 18mm-thick hardwood

    FRONT SECTION VIEW

    Australian Woodsmith No. 41 Online Extras

    2005 August Home Publishing

    w041_online.night stand

    2/6/2005

    4:05 PM

    Page 27

    a.
    9 6 1.5

    Case side 8g x 32 c/s woodscrew Case bottom


    I

    Drill and countersink holes from bottom for 8g x 32 c/s woodscrews 50 445
    I

    18

    BASE PANEL (18mm plywood) 453 8g x 32 c/s woodscrews 453

    50

    6.35 roundover

    6
    H F

    BASE SIDE

    FRONT SECTION VIEW


    F

    18
    G

    BASE SIDE

    BASE BACK

    18
    109

    b.
    18

    6
    G

    BASE BACK
    H

    Edge of panel is flush with outside face of back


    I

    127

    CORNER GLUE BLOCK

    109 457

    18
    75
    E H F

    BASE SIDE

    BASE PANEL
    18
    477 25

    BASE FRONT

    TOP VIEW

    BASE SIDE

    75

    MITRED BASE. The base is pretty straight-

    45 NOTE: Base sides, front, and back are18mm-thick hardwood

    forward, as you can see in the drawing at right. It consists of a mitred frame holding a plywood panel that is used to attach the base to the case. There are just a few details on the base that I should mention. First, a roundover is routed along the top edge of the front and sides to create a moulded edge. I left a small shoulder, as you can see in detail a above, to create a

    shadow line. Second, I cut an arch in the front and sides to lighten up the base. Finally, I wanted to beef up the frame joints between the front (E), sides (F) and back (G). So I added an 18mm-square hardwood glue blocks to the inside of all four of the corner joints.

    Before gluing the base frame together, I cut a rebate on the top inside edges of each part (except the back) to hold the 18mm plywood panel, shown in detail b. After drilling and countersinking some mounting holes, the base can be glued and screwed in place from below. W

    Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram


    A B C D E F Top (1) Cove Frame Front (1) Cove Frame Sides (2) Frame Filler (1) Base Front (1) Base Sides (2) 507 x 482 x 18 495 x 90 x 18 476 x 90 x 18 315 x 90 x 18 477 x 127 x 18 457 x 127 x 18 G H I

    Base Back (1) 453 x 109 x 18 Corner Glue Blocks (4) 109 x 18 x 18 Base Panel (1) 453 x 445 x 18 - ply (10) 8g x 32mm Rh Woodscrews w/Washers (12) 8g x 32mm c/s Woodscrews

    2400 x 150 x 25 Cherry


    A A A A H

    2400 x 125 x 25 Cherry


    C C B D G

    1500 x 150 x 25 Cherry


    F F E

    ALSO NEEDED: One 600 x 600 sheet of 18mm cherry plywood

    Australian Woodsmith No. 41 Online Extras

    2004 August Home Publishing

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