Product Specification Coversheet

Style #: HLSH001

Last Updated:

Style Name: Judy

11-May-16

Origin Date: 13-Apr-16

Description: Supportive Athleisure Bra

Developer: Kimberly Fults, Kathleen Kowalsky, Marquois Hood, Molly

Johnson
PLM: Kristen Morris

Gender: Female
Size Range: 32A-42G

Fit Block: Women's 36C Athleisure Bra

Season: Spring/Summer

Line List: TBD

Year: 2017

Status: New

Vendor: TBD
Country of Origin: Bangladesh

Status of Garment
Author

Proto Number

Date Evaluated

Status

Instructions to Vendor

Status

Instructions to Vendor

Approval Proto
Approval 2nd Sample
Approval 3
Salesman Sample
Size Run
Pre-Production
TOP Samples

Status of Trims
Author

Trim Number

Date Evaluated

Packing Instructions
1 fold in half
2 place each folded bra in individual poly bags
3 seal with a HLSH logo sticker

How to Proceed
1 Please send first Prototype
2
3

Judy

Colorups

Kimberly Fults, Kathleen Kowalsky, Marquois Hood, Molly Johnson

Date Created
13-Apr-16

Style #
Development #
Pattern #
Style Name
Description
Season
Size Range
Vendor
Country

HLSH001
N/A
N/A
Judy
Supportive Athleisure Bra
Spring/Summer
32A-42G
TBD
Bangladesh

Revision Date

Revisions

5/11/2016

Tech Design Proj 3 Tech Pack new Colorups

Page 2

Judy

Style Specs

Kristen Morris Design

www.kristendmorris.com
Style #
Development #
Pattern #
Style Name
Description
Season
Size Range
Vendor
Country
Notes

5/11/2016

HLSH001
N/A
N/A
Judy
Supportive Athleisure Bra
Spring/Summer
32A-42G
TBD
Bangladesh

Color Layout
Style Number
Color Code

A
Bodice Front

Blue Eden

B
Bodice Back

Black

C
Topstitching;
Flatlock
stitching
Flatlock
Black

Tech Design Proj 3 Tech Pack new Style Spec

D
Elastic Straps
Elastic Waistband
Black

E
Bra Lining

Pink/Purple Heather

F
Neckline Insert

Black

Date Created
13-Apr-16
G
Women Panel
Insert
Black

Page 3

Judy

Style Specs

Kristen Morris Design

Date Created
13-Apr-16

www.kristendmorris.com
Fabric For
A: Bodice Front

B: Bodice Back

Fabric
Item # 001
94% Rayon 6% Spandex
Moisture Wicking Finish
246 g/m2
Roller Printed - Please review Print specifications separately

Labels/Hantags/Etc

Item # 002
100% Polyester
Moisture Wicking Finish
179 g/m2
Dyed at Fabric Level (Look at example)
Item # 003
95% Polyester 5% Spandex
Moisture Wicking Finish
150 g/m2
Yarn Dyed
Item # 004
99% Polyester 1% Spandex
Moisture Wicking Finish
138 g/m2
Piece Dyed
Item # 005
100% Cotton
No Finish
295 g/m2
Piece Dyed
Labels/Hantags/Etc Placement

Main Hangtag

Right Elastic Band

C: Bra Lining

D: Neckline Insert

E: Woven Panel Insert

Outside Logo
Care Label
Side Label

1/4" up from the bottom and 1/2" right of the CB in the elastic band

Trim
TBD- Source
Size 1 1/4"
Black

Elastic Casing

TBD- Source
Size 5/8"
Black

Sew-On Snaps

TBD- Source
Size 10
Black

Bra Hook and Eyes

TBD- Source
Size 1 1/4"
Black

Channeling

TBD- Source
Size 3/8"
Black

Care on Label
Washing Instructions: Hand Wash Cold, No Bleach, Line Dry, Do Not Iron.

2" up from the bottom and 1/2" right of the CB above the elastic band
Left Back Bodice Above Waistband
1/2" up from the bottom and in the seam of the hook and eye on the right side
Inside Right Back Bodice In the
of the inside back bodice in the waistband
Waistband
1/2" up from the bottom and in the seam of the hook and eye on the right side
Inside Right Back Bodice In
of the inside back bodice in the waistband
Waistband

Inside Label

Inside Right Back Bodice In

Waistband

Content on Label

Bodice Front: 94 % Rayon 6% Spandex, Bodice Back: 100% Polyester, Bra Neckline Insert: 99% Polyester 1%
Spandex, Bra Lining: 95% Polyester 5% Spandex

Revision Date
27-Apr-16
29-Apr-16
2-May-16

Revisions

5/11/2016

Trim For
Elastic Staps
Elastic Waistband

1/2" up from the bottom and in the seam of the hook and eye on the right side
of the inside back bodice in the waistband

Tech Design Proj 3 Tech Pack new Style Spec

Shrinkage Std
Carton Quantity
Carton Size
Packing Method

2% Width x 5% Length
36 pieces/box; 9 kg
Please advise based on quantity
Individually polybagged

Page 4

Judy

Bill of Materials
HLSH001
N/A
N/A
Judy
Supportive Athleisure Bra
Spring/Summer
32A-42G
TBD
Bangladesh

Style #
Development #
Block #
Style Name
Description
Season
Size Range
Vendor
Country

MATERIAL

PLACEMENT

Rayon Spandex Front

Front Bodice

Polyester Back

Back Bodice

Polyester Spandex Lining

Polyester Spandex Neckline Insert

Cotton Inside Side Panel Insert

11-May-16

Spec Date

Inside Bra Lining

Neckline Insert
Inside Side Front
Bodice

DESCRIPTIO
N
94% Rayon
6% Spandex
100%
Polyester

C of O
China

WIDTH
INCHES

CONTENT
94% Rayon
6% Spandex
100%
Polyester

PRICE PER
YD FOB

DUTY/
FREIGHT

58"

$5.20

$0.89

60"

$5.70

$0.96

95% Polyester
China
5% Spandex

95% Polyester
57"
5% Spandex

$4.78

$0.81

99% Polyester
China
1% Spandex

99% Polyester
59"
1% Spandex

$1.40

100% Cotton

100% Cotton

$4.30

Taiwain

China

58"

YIELD

PLACEMENT

DESCRIPTIO
N

SUPPLIER

SIZE

YLD/PIECE

0.5

$7.41

0.75

$5.84

0.25
$0.24

$2.14

0.5
$0.73

$5.23

0.2

UNIT OF
MEASURE

PRICE PER
U.O.M.

PC GMT

$27.21

COST

Main Hangtag

Right Elastic Band

Wearer's Right
TBD
Elastic Band

2" x 3"

each

0.10 1

$1.10

Outside Logo

Left Back Bodice

Above Waistband

Wearer's Left
Back Bodice
Above
Waistband

TBD

1/2" x 1/2"

each

0.05 1

$1.05

Care Label

Inside Right Back

Bodice Above
Waistband

Wearer's
Inside Right
Back Bodice
Above
Waistband

TBD

1/2" x 3/4"

each

0.10 1

$1.10

Size Label

Inside Right Back

Bodice Above
Waistband

Wearer's
Inside Right
Back Bodice
Above
Waistband

TBD

1/4" x 1/4"

each

0.10 1

$1.10

Inside Label

Inside Right Back

Bodice Above
Waistband

TBD

1/2" x 3/4"

each

0.10 1

$1.10

TBD

1 1/4"

each

0.28 2

$2.28

Wearer's
Inside Right
Back Bodice
Above
Waistband
Wearer's
On edges on the
edges on the
back bodice pieces back bodice
pieces

Elastic Straps

Elastic Waistband

On bottom of Bra,
front and back

Wearer's
bottom of Bra, TBD
front and back

1 1/4"

each

0.28 1

$1.28

Elastic Casing

on edges of arm
hole and front
neckline insert

Wearer's
edges of arm
TBD
hole and front
neckline insert

1/4"

each

0.28 1

$1.28

Sew-On Snaps

center back above

elastic waistband of
inside panel insert
and back elastic
strap

Wearer's
center back
above elastic
waistband of
inside panel
insert and
back elastic
strap

TBD

1/4"

each

0.20 1

$1.20

Bra Hook and Eyes

center back
opening on elastic
waistband

Wearer's
center back
opening on
elastic
waistband

TBD

1 1/4"

each

0.40 1

$1.40

Channeling

inside front bodice

above waistband,
below bustline

Wearer's
inside front
bodice above TBD
waistband,
below bustline

1/4"

each

0.15 1

$1.15

Hanger

each

0.50 1

$1.50

Polybag

each

0.28 1

*BOM COMPONENTS ARE SIZE 36C. OTHER SIZES SHOULD GRADE ACCORDINGLY

5/11/2016

MULTI

$6.59

Materials
Cost

TRIM/LABELS/COMPONENTS

COST

MULTI

$1.28
Total Trim
Costs
Total BOM
Cost:

$9.01
$36.22

Tech Design Proj 3 Tech Pack new BOM

Page 5

Judy

Graded Specs

Style #
Development #
Block #
Style Name
Description
Season
Size Range
Vendor
Country

HLSH001
N/A
N/A
Judy
Supportive Athleisure Bra
Spring/Summer
32A-42G
TBD
El Salvador

Spec Date

Code

Point of Measure

TOL. +/-

1
2
3
3a
3b
3c
4
4a
4b
4c
4d
5
5a
5b
5c
5d
6
7
7a
7b

Front Neckline Insert - CF to strap

Front Neckline - CF to strap
Bra Bottom Length
a. CF to CB
b. CB to hook extension
c. CB to eye extension
Bra Width
a. CF - top to bottom edge
b. Center of cup bottom to hem
c. Side - Cup seam to hem
d. CB - top to bottom edge
Bra Top Length
a. Strap to side cup
b. Cup to CB
c. CB to hook extension
d. CB to eye extension
Channeling Width
Shoulder Strap
a. Length
b. Width

32A

34B

Grade
32A

Grade
34B

7
19 1/2
20
14 1/2
39
39 1/2
12 1/2
26 1/2
2 1/2
3
16 1/2

36C

38D

40E

6 1/2
19
19
13 1/2
38 1/2
39
11 1/2
14
2
2 1/2
15 1/2

6 3/4
19 1/4
19 1/2
14
38 3/4
39 1/4
12
14 1/2
2 1/4
2 3/4
16

1/4"
1/4"
1/2"
1/2"
1/4"
1/4"
1/2"
1/2"
1/4"
1/4"
1/2"

6
18
18
12
38
38
10
13
1
2
14

1/4"
1/2"

1/4"

7 1/4
6
2
3/4
6 1/2

7 1/2
6 1/2
2
3/4
6 3/4

7 3/4
7
2
3/4
7

8
7 1/2
2
3/4
7 1/4

8 1/4
8
2
3/4
7 1/2

- 1/4
- 1/2
0
0
- 1/4

- 1/4
- 1/2
0
0
- 1/4

7 3/4
7
2
3/4
7

1/4"
0

10 3/4
1 1/4

11
1 1/4

11 1/4
1 1/4

11 1/2
1 1/4

11 3/4
1 1/4

- 1/4
0

- 1/4
0

11 1/4
1 1/4

0
0

1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2

6
18
18
13
38
38
11
13
1
2
15

1/4
3/4
1/2
1/4
3/4
1/2
3/4
1/4

1/4
1/4
1/2
1/2
1/4
1/4
1/2
1/2
1/4
1/4
1/2

1/4
1/4
1/2
1/2
1/4
1/4
1/2
1/2
1/4
1/4
1/2

Grade
36C
6
19
19
13
38
39
11
14
2
2
15

Grade
38D

Grade
40E

1/4
1/4
1/2
1/2
1/4
1/4
1/2
1/2
1/4
1/4
1/2

1/4
1/4
1/2
1/2
1/4
1/4
1/2

1/2

1/2
1/2
1/2

1/2
1/2

Tech Design Proj 3 Tech Pack new Graded Spec

1/4
1/4
1/2

1/4
1/2
0
0

1/4
1/2
0
0

1/4

1/4

1/4
0

1/4
0

Revision Date
27-Apr-16
29-Apr-16
2-May-16

5/11/2016

12

Page 6

Judy

Point of Measurement

Style #
Development #
Block #
Style Name
Description
Season
Size Range
Vendor
Country

HLSH001
N/A
N/A
Judy
Supportive Athleisure Bra
Spring/Summer
32A-42G
TBD
Bangladesh

Code

Point of Measure

1
2
3
3a
3b
3c
4
4a
4b
4c
4d
5
5a
5b
5c
5d
6
7
7a
7b

Front Neckline Insert - CF to strap

Front Neckline - CF to strap
Bra Bottom Length
a. CF to CB
b. CB to hook extension
c. CB to eye extension
Bra Width
a. CF - top to bottom edge
b. Center of cup bottom to hem
c. Side - Cup seam to hem
d. CB - top to bottom edge
Bra Top Length
a. Strap to side cup
b. Cup to CB
c. CB to hook extension
d. CB to eye extension
Channeling Width
Shoulder Strap
a. Length
b. Width

Judy
Style #
Development #

Seams
HLSH001
N/A

Stitch

#1
Block #

Description
Season
Size Range
Vendor
Country

Seam Name

FSa

Flatlock Seaming
(with 606 stitch)

ISO 4916 #

4.01.01

Seam Allowance in Inches

0"

S.P.I.

16

Thread Type Placement/ Special

Polyester

N/A

#2
Style Name

Seam Type

Judy
Supportive Athleisure Bra
Spring/Summer
32A-42G
TBD
Bangladesh

#3

LSb
SSh (b)

Lap Seaming

2.02.01

1/4"

Polyester

Coverstitch

4.04.01

1/4"

16

Polyester

Waistband and Back

shoulder straps,
shoulder seam
Armhole, neckline,
neckline insert, side
seams, channeling,
woven insert, hook and
eyes, woven panel
insert
Front Bodice Princess
Seam

Change Sheet
Assignement Name
Client Name
Developer Name
Style Name
Description
Size Numerical Bodice
Size Alphanumeric Bodice

Project 3
Judith
Athlesure Group
Athlesure Bra
Active wear bra
Size 6
Medium

Code

Point of Measure

1
2
3
3a
3b
3c
4
4a
4b
4c
4d
5
5a
5b
5c
5d
6
7
7a
7b

Front Neckline Insert - CF to strap

Front Neckline - CF to strap
Bra Bottom Length
a. CF to CB
b. CB to hook extension
c. CB to eye extension
Bra Width
a. CF - top to bottom edge
b. Center of cup bottom to hem
c. Side - Cup seam to hem
d. CB - top to bottom edge
Bra Top Length
a. Strap to side cup
b. Cup to CB
c. CB to hook extension
d. CB to eye extension
Channeling Width
Shoulder Strap
a. Length
b. Width

5/11/2016

Spec Date
Today's Date

Body
Measurements

4-May-16
5/11/2016

TOL. +/1st Proto

6 1/2
19
19
13 1/2
40
39
12
14
2
2 1/2
16

1/4"

7 3/4
7
NA
NA
NA

1/4"
1/2"
0
0
1/4"

12

1/4"
0

NA

1/4"
1/2"
1/2"
1/4"
1/4"
1/2"
1/2"
1/4"
1/4"
1/2"

Change Sheet Project 3 Graded Spec

Findings
1st Proto

NA
14
19"
19"
NA
NA

NA
1
-3
-3

15
11 1/2"
1
NA
14

NA
NA
-1 1/2
-1
1
NA
0

NA
NA
NA
NA
NA

NA
NA
NA
NA
NA

14
1 1/4

-1
0

Findings
2nd Proto 2nd Proto
4 1/2

Final
Proto

Findings
Final Proto

6 1/2
19
19
13 1/2
38 1/2
39
11 1/2
14
2
2 1/2
15 1/2

0
0
0
0

- 1/4
-2
0
0
0

7 3/4
7
2
3/4
7

- 1/2
0
0
0
0

13
1 1/4

-1 3/4
0

11 1/4
1 1/4

-1
0

15
16
11
37
37
13
10
2
1
14

1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2

8
9
2
3/4

4
3
2
1
1
-2
4
0
1
1

1/2
1/2
1/2

1/2

1/2
1/2
0
0
0
0
0

Page 1

Change Sheet
Assignement Name
Client Name
Developer Name
Style Name
Description
Size Numerical Bodice
Size Alphanumeric Bodice

1st Proto Comments

4-May-16
Spec Date
Today's Date 5/11/2016

Project 3
Judith
Athlesure Group
Athlesure Bra
Active wear bra
Size 6
Medium

Details
1
2

The construction quality is good everywhere but waistband. Stitching through elastic is not clean and we are removing it.
Fabric not approved. See details via email.
Remove all gathers from waist. Fabric should be smooth. You will need to stretch the fabric to match the elastic when constructing the waist. We are sending a sample without
gathers for you to review.
Move drawstring to exit through inside of band.
Remove stitching through elastic.
Revise elastic to one with greater stretch and recovery. Also, make sure the elastic has a channel included, so you won't need to stitch through the waistband.
Please submit options for drawstrings. See spec for details.
Rvsd inner waist to be as style 100 fabric.
See spec for added key pocket

3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Fit
1
2

Proto was in size M, made it size S. Then rvsd Front Rise +1, Back Rise -2 as your proto sample. See revisions reflected on spec.
Rvsd Waist Ext to equal Waist Relaxed. All stretch will come from the fabric, not from excess. See revisions reflected on spec.

How to Proceed
1
2

Submit 2nd proto.

Make sure 2nd proto has outside embroidery included.

5/11/2016

Change Sheet Project 3 Cmmts 1st Proto

Page 2

Change Sheet
Assignement Name
Client Name
Developer Name
Style Name
Description
Size Numerical Bodice
Size Alphanumeric Bodice

Project 3
Judith
Athlesure Group
Athlesure Bra
Active wear bra
Size 6
Medium

2nd Proto Comments

4-May-16
Spec Date
Today's Date 11-May-16

Details
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

Body fabric approved as 2nd proto.

Mesh fabric approved as 2nd Proto. Please advise construction and weight.
Revise waist to cut & sew band. Remove seam at top edge. Remove mesh from inside waist.
Revise to an elastic with a channel included, so you won't need to stitch through any part of the waistband.
Drawstring not approved from sample. Please submit the twill tape option you confirmed via scan.
Key Pocket is incorrect style and size. It should be a patch pocket. See pic at right. And revise size to 2 1/2 x 3 3/4.
Change key pocket to mesh.
Reduce size of logo. See revised logo spec.

Fit
1
2
3

See Graded Spec

bring straps in 2"
insert a snap to close bottom elastic

How to Proceed
1
2

Confirm your understanding on the above changes

Submit full size run in 90/10 twill back 290 gm/m2 - black

5/11/2016

Change Sheet Project 3 Cmmts 2nd Proto

Page 3

Change Sheet
Assignement Name
Client Name
Developer Name
Style Name
Description
Size Numerical Bodice
Size Alphanumeric Bodice

Final Proto Comments

Project 3
Judith
Athlesure Group
Athlesure Bra
Active wear bra
Size 6
Medium

Spec Date
Today's Date

4-May-16
11-May-16

Details
1
2

Flatlock thread at straps is loose--resolve

Add a curve to the channeling to follow the bustline

Fit
1
2
3

Tighten the straps 1"

Tighten the armhole 1 12"
See graded spec

How to Proceed
1

Adjust sewing & Fit issues

Create one more prototype

5/11/2016

Change Sheet Project 3 Final Proto

Page 4

Hanging Low Sitting High Athleisure Bra Fitting Images

Prototype 1

Prototype 2

Prototype 3