Bio-Finishing in Textiles

Submitted By-
Disha Sahu(05)
M.F.Tech(I)
 Textile finishing
• It is a process used in manufacturing of fiber,
fabric or clothing. In order to impart the
required functional properties to the fiber or
fabric, it is customary to subject the material
to different type of physical and chemical
treatments.
• Textile finishing is an important step in entire textile
value chain and suited for innovative process and
product development-
– Textile finishing accounts for about 50% of the added value
of the textile product
– Implementation of innovative finishing techniques,
additives and processes largely expands the application
field of textiles.
– Innovative and eco friendly techniques and additives in
conformity contribute to a sustainable production and
ecological products.
 Application-
• Textile finishing imparts functionalities to textile products that are desired by the
end user-
– Colour and optimal effects
– Easy care
– Water/Oil repellency
– Handfeel: softness, crispness
– Flame-retardancy
– Antistaticity
– Mothproof, anti-dustmite, anti fungi..
– Barrier properties against hazardous fluids and gases
– Water / air (im)permeability
– UV resistance
– Wear resistance
– Sensoring
– Comfort
 Research and development-
• Reduction of the environmental impact
through-
– Eco-friendly finishing techniques-
• Application of enzymes, biopolymers and bio-
degradable auxiliaries
– Recycling and reuse of waste water
– Energy friendly process by-
• Process optimisation
• Efficient combination of different processes.
 Enzymes- Introduction
• Enzymes are proteins. Enzymes consist of long chains of amino
acid, held together by peptide bonds. Some of the best known
enzymes are those found in the digestive tract where pepsin,
trypsin and peptidases breakdown proteins into amino acids,
lipases split fats into glycerol and fatty acids, and amylases
breakdown starch into simples’ sugars.
• Enzymes are basically biocatalysts. Enzymes are capable of
performing these tasks, because they help to catalyze reactions.
this means that by their more presence, and without being
consumed in the process, enzymes can speed up chemicals
process that would otherwise run very slowly, it at all.
 Enzymes properties-
1. Enzymes are specific
2. Enzymes are very efficient catalysts
3. Origin – natural source- Enzymes are present in all
biological systems. They come from natural system and
when they are degraded the amino acid of which they
are made of can be readily absorber back into nature.
4. Enzymes work only on renewable raw
material
 Enzyme treatments of textile
Types of Textile use and effect
enzyme
Celluloses Bio-finishing, bio-polishing, anti pilling, softness,
smoothness,
luster improvement and stone washed effect on denim.
Amylases standard procedure for the removal of starch warps size.
Proteases In household washing agents’ better removal of protein
containing soil or stains. Anti felting of wool, accompanied
by
high loss of weight, tear strength and the typical handle,
degumming of silk with the problem of silk fibroin damage.
Lipases In detergents for the hydrolysis of lipids.
Pettiness Hydrolysis of pectins, for example in cotton preparation and
retting of flex and hemp.
Types of Textile use and effects
enzymes
Catalyses Catalyse the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide, important
before reaction dying or printing of peroxide bleached fabrics
and yarns.
Peroxidases Used as an enzymatic rinse process after reactive dying,
oxidative splitting of hydrolyzed reactive dyes on the fiber and
in the liquor, providing better wet fastness, decolorized waste
water and potentially toxic decomposition compound.
Ligninases Removal of burns and other plant compound from raw wool.
Collagenases Removal of residual skin parts in wool.
Esterases In development polyester finish removal of oligomers.
Esterases In development polyacrylonitrile preparation for better
coloration.
 Bio-Polishing
• Neutral bio polishing gives even and better quality- Most fabrics
containing natural cotton fibers have tiny, loose or protruding yarns
dotted over their surface, giving them a fuzzy texture. With repeated
wearing and washing, these yarns break and their ends become
tangled, resulting in pilling, which can make fairly new garments look
old and worn. Bio-Polishing removes projecting fibers to improve the
texture and appearance of fabrics. This not only creates a smoother
fabric with resistance to pilling, but also improves softness, lustre and
drape. In short, Bio-Polished fabrics look better and last longer.
• Bio-Polishing uses a group of enzymes called cellulases. These
enzymes have the ability to degrade cellulose, the basic structural
building block of plants and the major constituent of other cellulosic
fibers.
• When the enzymes are applied to the fabric,
they partially digest excess and protruding
yarns, loosening them from the fabric. The
resulting fuzz is then removed by high-speed
mechanical agitation of the fabric, for example
in a jet dyer.
 Sensitive cellulases
• However, this process has been hampered by the sensitivity of conventional Bio-
Polishing enzymes to pH. Most cellulases will only operate effectively across a very
narrow, acidic pH range. Even very small differences in pH can alter the
performance and effect of the enzymes.
• All this means that manufacturers must take great care to ensure that the solution
is at the correct pH for the enzyme to work properly and that the pH is uniform
throughout the solution. The processes taking place before Bio-Polishing, for
example bleaching and dyeing, require a high, alkaline pH. Operators must
therefore carefully adjust the pH of the solution by adding acid prior to Bio-
Polishing.
• The time taken to adjust the pH and wait for even circulation can significantly draw
out the Bio-Polishing process.
• Seemingly trivial differences in pH between batches can lead to variability in the
finish of the end product. Worse still, the acidic pH needed for optimum enzyme
performance can reduce the dye retention of the fabric, resulting in colour fading
 A new generation of Bio-Polishing
• Novozymes’ latest product, Cellusoft CR, is an
easy-to-use, fast-acting cellulase specially
developed to improve Bio-Polishing in the
textile industry.
Cellusoft CR advantages over conventional
cellulases used in Bio-Polishing
• It allows Bio-Polishing under neutral conditions.
• It operates across a much wider pH range than the conventional
cellulases used in Bio-Polishing, eliminating the need to adjust the pH
of the solution after dyeing or bleaching, reducing the total time
needed for the Bio-Polishing process.
• As the enzyme can operate optimally over a wider pH range, small
differences in pH do not affect the finish of the final product., Cellusoft
CR ensures consistency of the end product with each and every batch.
• Excellent colour retention properties when used on dyed fabrics.
• It minimises fabric weight loss in Bio-Polishing. And it produces a
visibly smoother fabric with lower lint formation and higher tensile
strength.
 Cost-effective quality in no time
• Bio-Polishing has the potential to give textile manufacturers a clear
edge over their competitors. But up to now many have avoided
Bio-Polishing altogether because of poor repeatability and the
time needed to complete the process. Others only consider using
Bio-Polishing as a remedial measure for fabrics in which pilling is
identified as a problem. With Cellusoft CR, Novozymes offers
textile manufacturers a reliable, cost-effective Bio-Polishing
solution.
• With its broad pH range (pH 5-8), Cellusoft CR can be easily
incorporated into standard protocols to improve the quality of a
multitude of fabrics. And what is more, it can be used in
combination with other enzymatic processesused in fabric
finishing, for example Bio-Scouring, Bleach Clean-Up and desizing.
• “Cellusoft CR is ideal for all textile manufacturers, whether
they are currently using Bio-Polishing or not,” says Han
Kuilderd.
• “Besides the readily visible effects on fabric quality, the
broad pH profile of Cellusoft CR will help manufacturers to
reduce acid consumption, processing times and batch
failures. And this ultimately adds up to cost-savings.”

• Bio-Polishing at neutral and near neutral pH helps to

prevent colour loss in dyed fabrics compared to
conventional acid cellulases.
 Various enzymes playing role in finishing-
Enzyme Description
TEXYME DGS Special proteolytic enzyme for
degumming of silk
TEX BIOSCOUR Multicomponent scour formulation for
scouring cotton fabric
TEXZYME BPL Fungal acid cellulase for premium bio-
polishing
TEXAMYLASE/ TEXAMYLASE Liquid Desizing enzyme based on conventional
bacterial alpha amylase
TEXZYME AC Fungal acid cellulase for bio washing of
denim material
TEXZYME NC Fungal neutral cellulase for premium bio-
abrasion
TEXZYME PK Catalyses decomposition of residual
hydrogen per oxide to oxygen and water.
The product is highly specific for hydrogen
peroxide and will not react with dyestuffs.
Physical properties of naturally coloured
cotton khadi fabric
treated with enzymatic finish

Mechanical properties-
 1.1 Yarn Count (Ne)

• There is an increase in the yarn count of the

enzyme treated samples compared to control
because of warp yarns being relatively coarser
have larger surface area with little protruding
fibres which were removed during the enzyme
treatment and probably make the yarns fine
and smooth.
1.2 Cloth count (Numerical expression)

• There is an increase in cloth count with

increase in treatment time. On enzymatic
treatment the yarns became finer and the wet
treatments resulted into weave compactness,
thus enhancing the number of threads per
unit area. The statistical results revealed that
enzymatic treatment positively influenced the
cloth count.
 1.3 Mass per unit area (g)

• Weight per square meter of the finished fabric

decreased with enzymatic treatment. Loss in
cloth weight increased with increase in
treatment time. Greater weight loss with
increased treatment time is due to the
removal of more surface fibers or fuzz present
on the fabric along with size, during
mechanical agitation of enzyme treatment.
 1.4 Cloth thickness (mm)
• Enzymatic treatment decreased the thickness
of the test samples, which increased with
increase in treatment time. The change is
mainly due to enzymatic hydrolysis of
cellulose especially in the amorphous region.
This hydrolysis removes the protruding fibers
covering the fabric surface, thus reducing the
thickness of enzyme treated test samples.
 1.5 Cloth bending length (cm)

• The bending length is a characteristic property of a fabric

and is dependent upon the energy required to produce a
given bending deformation under its own weight.
• Bending length of the control sample is greater both in
warp and weft ways, however warp-way bending path
was longer than weft-way at control but a trend of
decrease is noticed on enzymatic treatment. This may be
due to softness and smoothness, which made the fabric
more pliable. This in turn reduced bending path on
enzymatic treatment.
 1.6 Cloth crease recovery angle (degree)

• Samples treated with enzyme at different treatment times

shows gradual decrease in crease recovery angles in both
warp and weft directions. This may be because of the effect
of enzyme that imparted softness in the colour linted
cotton by hydrolyzing and removing the surface fibres.
• These values are supported by the values of reduction in
bending path, which in turn reduced the crease recovery
property i.e. lower the bending path, softer the fabric and
lesser the crease recovery angle. From this it is evident that
the fabric is made more pliable and flexible on application
of enzyme finish.
 1.7 Cloth dimensional stability (%)

• The warp-way shrinkage of control was found to be

greater than weft at control may be because of desizing
and relaxation of yarns that lead to shrinkage.
• On the other hand enzyme finished samples showed
slight shrinkage both in warp and weft way as these
samples have already under gone wet treatment during
enzymatic finish hence, there was not much change in
the dimension when tested for shrinkage. Moreover
treatment time did not adversely affect the dimensions
of the enzyme treated samples, which is a positive result.
2. Functional properties
 2.1 Cloth elongation (%)

• There is reduction in elongation (%) when treated with

enzymes. This fall in the percentage value may be because
of hydrolysis of cellulose and removal of protruding
surface fibers. Further, increase in treatment time,
progressively decreased the cloth elongation per cent.
• This may be because at the initial stage hydrolysis of
cellulose involved removal of surface fibers and in the
later stages the enzyme probably attacked the amorphous
region of the cellulose resulting into further reduction in
cloth elongation.
 2.2 Cloth tensile strength (kgf)

• Enzyme treated samples showed decrease in tensile

strength. Enzyme treatment decreased the cloth
elongation, which is directly proportional to tensile
strength. Further, it is also evident that decrease in
warp-way tensile strength was greater in treated
sample for treatment time of 30 minutes and 60
minutes, because warp yarns are coarser than weft and
in principle, coarser yarns have greater surface area
with more hairiness for enzyme hydrolysis, which
resulted into greater strength loss in tensile strength.
 2.3 Cloth tear strength (g)

• The warp way tear strength of the test samples is higher than
their corresponding weft way, may be because weft yarns were
finer than the warp. In principle denser fabrics have lower tear
strength and it holds good.

• Enzyme treated samples did show a trend of decrease in tear

strength both in warp and weft directions. This may probably
because, during enzyme treatment not only the surface
hairiness was reduced but also there was progressive
consolidation of yarns on wet treatment that in turn enhanced
the cloth count. It is true that higher the cloth count lower is the
tear strength.
 2.4 Cloth abrasion resistance (Cycles)
• Failure of abrasion resistance is mainly due to weakening of the structure
caused by mechanical breakdown of individual fibers and which is
substantially the same for all fibers. Only those fibers held firmly by tension
and pressure sustain intensive abrasive action. The physical properties
influencing the cloth abrasion resistance to a greater extent are yarn count
and thickness and to some extent the sizing material that is held mechanically
on the cloth surface.

• Among the test samples,control showed greater resistance to abrasion. This

may be due to the presence of size that formed a thin film on the surface, in
turn added to the cloth thickness thus resulting into better abrasion
resistance, where as enzyme treated naturally colored cotton samples
exhibited relatively low resistance to abrasion may be because of removal of
size during wet treatment, hydrolysis of cellulose, breaking of fibers on
mechanical agitation during finishing process, where in the yarns became
more finer, pliable, thus was loss in thickness.
 2.5 Cloth drapability (%)

• Enzymatic finish improved the drapability of naturally

coloured linted cotton samples. Because enzyme
treatment improved the softness of the khadi
samples which is evident from decrease in bending
length and increase in crease recovery angle.
• This softness improved the drapability of the enzyme
treated samples when compared to control, which
was stiffer with longer bending path because of
presence of sizing material that showed relatively
poor drapability.
 2.6 Cloth pilling (Ratings)

• Pilling is a fabric surface fault characterizes by little ‘pills’

of entangled fiber clinging close to the cloth surface.
Under the influence of rubbing action loose and small
fibers develop into small spherical bundles anchored to
the fabric by a few unbroken fibers. It is clear that enzyme
finished samples showed excellent resistance to pilling.
• This may be because of the small fibers and fuzz present
on the control fabric, which were removed during enzyme
treatment resulting into a fabric with non fuzzy surface,
where as control khadi sample showed moderate pilling
because of fuzziness on the cloth surface.
 Effect of enzymatic finish on physical
properties of naturally coloured cotton
khadi fabric
• Enzymatic treatment increased the yarn count and cloth count of the naturally
colour linted cotton khadi fabric compared to control.
• There was decrease in thickness of the test samples on enzyme treatment.
• Decrease in cloth bending length and crease recovery was noticed in enzyme treated
fabric samples.
• Colour linted cotton khadi samples attained dimensional stability after enzyme
treatment.
• Enzyme treated test sample showed decrease in tear strength. There existed a
negative relation slip between cloth count and tear strength.
• Resistance to abrasion decreased on enzyme treatment in terms of per cent increase
in loss of thickness and mass/unit area.
• Cloth thickness is directly proportional to abrasion resistance.
• Enzyme treated samples showed better drapability compared to control and
naturally colour linted fabric samples with enzymatic finish showed excellent
resistance to pilling.
 References-
• BOOTH, J.E., 1983, Principles of Textile Testing, Edn. 6., CBS Publishers and
Distributors, New Delhi. Pp: 267-300.
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D.P., CHATTARJEE, K.N., BHANDRA, I. AND RUCEERE GEMBER, 1997,
Studies on enzymatic fading. Man-made Textiles in India, 40(1): 452-454..
• GULRAJANI M. L., AMIT DAYAL AND CHAKRABORTY, Kawabata evaluation
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Research, 22: 211-221.
• GULRAJANI M.L., PAROMITA ROY, RITU AGARWAL AND SUBHAS CHAND,
Enzymatic treatment of cotton knits. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile
Research, 23:242-249.
• JHA, V., 2005, The end of Quota Era. Yojana, 49:4-5.KATHIRVELU, S.S.,
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• SINHA, S.K, 1998, Naturally hued cotton-it is not new for khadi.
Proceedings of Workshop on Eco-friendly Cotton, pp: 45-47.SUMAN AND
KHAMBRA, K.
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• THILAGAVATHI, G., RAJENDRA, K. AND JEEVAREKHA, T., 2005, Biosoftening
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• Website: http://www.foxfibre.com/cotton/nicci.html.
• Website: http://www.nodyes@foxfibre.com.