I.A.

Critical Defect List

Critical Defect List:

I. Workmanship Damage:
A. Needle cuts, needle chews, or feed abrasion adversely affecting
appearance or likely to reduce durability.
B. Part caught in an unrelated job, which if pulled or cut loose in order to
properly function is likely to cause a hole or seriously affect appearance.
C. Extremely loose stitch tension characterized by loose loops on bottom or
top thread, or grinning which very seriously affects the appearance or is
likely to cause seam failure.
D. Tight stitch tension which causes the stitches to break when normal strain
is applied to either the seam or the stitching.
E. Stitches per inch less than the number specified on a major stress seam
(ex. Crotch, fly, seat, waistband) by more than three inches.
F. Incorrect fabric or mixed fabric codes used in the body or component
parts.
G. Direction or face of fabric different, adversely affecting the appearance.
H. Holes where a yarn has bursted and cannot be repaired resulting in fraying
and premature failure adversely affecting appearance.
I. Mending, darning, or patching the outside of a garment, or more than 1/8”
diameter or length in any conspicuous place on the inside of the garment.
J. Fullness in garment panels adversely affecting appearance to a very
serious and obvious degree. (Ex. Mixing different sizes)
K. Uneven collar band set resulting in obvious tilted and imbalanced collar.

II. Appearance Defects:

A. Folded or pressed with wrinkles or creases which seriously affect
appearance.
B. More than a single crease evident on nigh part of the leg.
C. Twisted legs.
D. Spots, stains, dirt, or soil on any part of the garment; that adversely affect
appearance visible from 4 feet. A spot 2” from the bottom of an open pant
or on the tail of a shirt in not a critical defect.

III. Repairs and Re-Sews:

A. Re-sews improperly made which adversely affect either the appearance,
durability, or fit of this garment.
B. Ripped- back stitching not cleanly removed before re-sewing and/ or
spliced stitching not superimposed on the original stitching, and/ or
spliced stitching not overlapping original stitching by at least ¼” or three
stitches, at the start or finish of a re-sew or repair.

IV. Cleanliness:
A. Visible attached threads (strings) totaling more than 6”, or a single thread
measuring longer than ½”.
I.A. Critical Defect List

B. Foreign objects, such as needles, wire staples etc embedded in the fabric.
V. Permanent Labels or Tickets:
A. Any size information on the garment is incorrect.
B. Care instructions not printed clearly, omitted, incorrect, blotted out,
changed or cut off in total or in part.
C. Ticket or label attachment insecure.
D. Ticket or label replacement, where the original ticket or label has not been
completely removed prior to replacement.

VI. Material Defects:

A. Any weakening defect; a slub or broken fill yarn.
B. Any unsightly defect visible at a distance of four feet from the garments.
C. Any visible obvious attempt to “color” a slub or thick yarn that affects the
appearance of the garment that is visible from a four feet distance away
from the garment.

VII. Shade Parts:

A. Any outside part obviously shaded when viewed from a distance of four
feet/
B. A shaded are from curing visible from four feet.

VIII. Components and Assembly:

Any component part or assembly operation omitted or incomplete, to include belt
loops, pleats, and label sew/ heat seal.

IX. Stitching/ Seams:

A. Any skipped stitch, cut, broken, raveled, or incomplete stitches.
B. Any raw edge or open seams.
C. Any missing, insecure, or incomplete bartack, or tack not serving the
intended purpose.
D. Both plies are not securely caught or raw over edge of a safety stitch seam.
E. Run- off stitches.
F. Seam and/ or stitch type not specified.
G. Buttonholes not securely caught in fabric, omitted, too small for button,
not cut open completely, misplaced, or containing skipped, cut, or broken
stitches
H. Buttons missing, insecure, broken, or misplaced by more than ¼”
vertically or 1/16” horizontally.
I. Hook or eye not securely attached, damaged, or misaligned causing
distortion.
J. Spliced or cut belt loop.
K. More than 1 ½” open, or more than three skipped stitches, on a blind stitch
bottom hem.
I.A. Critical Defect List

L. Hip pocket high or low more than ½” pocket to pocket from seam or
crooked more than ¼” from side to side on the same pocket.

M. Waistband uneven high or low by more than ¼” (difference between right

and left.
N. Left and right bands differing in width by more that 3/16.
O. Thread not as specified or mixed on a garment.
P. Uneven leg length: more than ¾” variation between the right and left leg.

X. Perma Crease (Creaseset):

A. Creaset bead must be centered in both the front and the back crease
(+/- 1/32” tolerance)
B. Creaset bead should start 2” above the unfinished leg bottom. (+/- ½
tolerance)
C. Creaset bead should finish at a point parallel to base of fly. (+/- ½”
tolerance)
D. Bead should finish at top of rear crease, approximately at the crotch point
(+/- ½” tolerance)
E. No glue should stray off crease onto panels.
F. Bead must be continuous with no breaks in the fillet.
G. Bead width: 3/32 (+/- 1/32” tolerance)