Water Car Pro

By: Oliver South of WaterCarPro.com

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

This Guide Is For Your PERSONAL USE ONLY.

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

Introduction
Since the beginning of time humans have been looking for energy sources to heat our homes, cook our food, run our machines, and even to send men to the moon. Our ancestors who lived in caves got emphysema from breathing the smoke of open fires used in confined spaces. We have known since the beginning that while energy sources make our lives easier they come at a cost. For centuries the cost was fire and lung diseases from the inhaled smoke. As we progressed as a species we learned how to build dams and use gravity in combination with the natural flow of water to produce energy for our machines. However, this introduced the problem of flooding as a by product of our energy production. Then we split the atom and added radiation and radioactive by products to the list of our pollution sources. It seems that since the beginning of time we have been trying to find a cheap clean form of energy. Water has been used as a source of energy for centuries in steam engines and in gravity fed water wheels and hydroelectric dams. Now thanks to improvements in technology, we have a portable and economic way to use water to run our cars. With soaring gas prices and the fact that petroleum is becoming scarcer world wide, inventors and even governments have been diligently searching for alternative methods of powering our cars which are a major source of air pollution. Converting to water based systems as a primary or secondary power source will not only save you money at the gas pump but will also help to clean up our environment. Much of the pollution we have today is a direct by product of energy production and transportation. Waters atomic formula is H2O which means it contains 2 hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. Most people have done water electrolysis as a lab experiment in their chemistry class in either high school or college. You simply pass an electric current through the water to

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

separate the hydrogen and oxygen atoms, producing two gases. Scientists have known how to do this for more than a century. However, until recent years, it took more energy to separate the atoms than could be gotten from burning the separated gases. So for many years the electrolysis of water was an interesting but impractical source of energy. Eventually a low voltage system using specific pulse frequencies that can be powered by a cars battery was developed. Finally a system to create a practical alternative energy source from water electrolysis existed. Hydrogen is being used as a supplemental or alternative fuel in many of the new hybrid vehicles available in the market today. The biggest problem with their system is that it requires a hydrogen tank on the car. Hydrogen is a highly flammable gas that can either catch on fire or explode. The Hindenburg dirigible that exploded in 1937 in Lakehurst, NJ is the most famous example of what can happen if hydrogen gas that is trapped in an enclosed space catches on fire. This book discusses the technology necessary to build your own conversion system. They are called conversion systems because you dont have to modify the original system. You are adding something new and integrating it into the existing system. That means if you change your mind, you can simply go back to the old way by removing what you added. There are some do it yourself blueprints, pre-made components and ready made conversion kits available, but until a neutral third party organization does comparison tests, you will need to do extensive research on its effectiveness before purchasing one. The best know kit comes from the Hydrogen Garage and costs around $1,000 with shipping and comes with complete installation instructions. However, by using the information is this book, you can build your own system for less.

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

All of the systems produce what is called Browns Gas to be used a fuel in the internal combustion engine. Browns Gas can only be produced in a common ducted electrolyzer. The most efficient common ducted electrolyzer design is series cell made up of parallel plates. By not separating the released hydrogen and oxygen gases efficiency is improved because immediately after electrolysis separates the hydrogen and oxygen gas from the water molecule, their energy state is significantly higher. That means the newly separated gases produce more energy than if they had been pumped separately to be mixed in the engine. Browns Gas requires high pressure containers for storage which makes it unsuitable for use as a distribution product. Browns Gas must be consumed immediately after production. It is an on-demand Hydrogen Fuel that is only produced as needed. That fact is why the oil companies are trying to suppress this technology. They cant bottle and sell it.

How Much Money Can You Save?

It depends on what kind of mileage your car currently gets. Cars that have already been converted can get anywhere from a 25% to a 50% increase in gas mileage. But if you have an average car you get approximately 20 MPG. The table below shows you what your potential saving would be if you got a 25%, a 40% or a 50% increase in miles per gallon when gas is $3.50 per gallon.

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

Obviously, you can save money. If your purchased a kit and paid someone to install it for you, which will probably cost you about $2,000$1,000 for the kit and $500 to $1,000 to have it installed. If you build the system yourself, it will cost between $100 and $500. So if you drive 30,000 miles a year, your savings from the cost of gas would pay for the system in a year or less. Converting to other alternative systems can take 5 to 15 years to recoup your investment. If you purchase a new hybrid vehicle, the difference between a standard model and the hybrid model for the exact same vehicle can take more than 20 years before your recoup the cost. In other words, it will take longer than you will probably own the car.

A Real Working Model

Hydrogen has been used as a fuel source for aircrafts since the beginning of the 19th century. The first airplane fueled from liquid hydrogen was a B-57 twin-engine jet bomber engineered by Daniel Brewer at Lockheed Corporation. The B-57 flew for two years, burning hydrogen during flights for as long as eighteen minutes. They ran into aerodynamic problems with where to store the fuel tanks for the liquid hydrogen and the ides was abandoned. NASA has also fueled their spacecrafts with hydrogen.

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

In the 1950s, engineer Roger Billings converted a Model A Ford truck to run on hydrogen. In 1970, Billings joined the Clean Air Race sponsored by the California and Minnesota Institutes of Technology. Later, Billings and his staff converted many other cars to use hydrogen fuel, including a Winnebago, Recreational Vehicle. During the 1960s and 1970s, Billings and the Perris Group made the most successful attempts to power a car on hydrogen fuel. In more recent times, Herman P. Anderson built water powered cars. Anderson consulted with NASA and the US Air Force on some Top Secret Projects such as the first US satellite in space, the SR-71 Blackbird, the Stealth Fighter/Bomber and Starwars. Herman worked with Dr. Wernher von Braun testing hydrogen powered rocket engines. He also worked with engineers at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory, JPL, and Cal Tech. While in the Air Force during WWII, Herman served as a fighter pilot, a flight instructor and bombardier trainer. He was certified in and flew 23 different airplanes during this period A Ford LTD he converted to run on either hydrogen or gasoline is on display in the Water Fuel Museum in Lexington, KY. He injects a hydrogen water mist into the air cleaner using an LP regulator and air cleaner assembly that is used on propane vehicles. The butterfly in the carb, as in an LP system, now serves as the intake air control. He got 38 miles per gallon of water. Anderson used heavy water, two custom coils and extremely high voltage (70,000 volts) in his system. This kind of voltage required shielding because it emits radiation somewhat greater than a microwave oven. The state of Tennessee allowed Anderson to drive his car because of his expertise with the technology. His vehicles prove that the technology does work. However, a different technology was needed before it could be used by the average person. Fortunately that has been successfully developed. The picture below shows Herman Anderson with his Chevy Caviler that could run solely on water.

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

Most scientists agree that eventually we will run our cars on hydrogen since it is an abundant fuel. The debate centers on how to use that hydrogen, where to get it and who will make the profit from providing it to the consumer. The Oil companies are already planning to convert gas stations into hydrogen pumping stations. That means that they will be supporting any technological developments that use a hydrogen fuel cell or fuel tank on the vehicle. That also mean that they will do everything that their multi Billion dollar revenues can to prevent any inventions that dont require them to provide the hydrogen. Many inventors have been paid fortunes by the oil companies for their patents and then the technology was suppressed. Other inventors that wouldnt sell their patents have mysteriously died. The simple fact is that a cheap, clean fuel supply has the potential to bankrupt the economy, at least initially. In the meantime, you can use the technology to save money on your transportation costs. There are several hydrogen systems available from many different inventors that all have different capabilities. However, all of them can improve your gas mileage. This book will cover only one of the systems that is designed to use the hydrogen generated as a booster fuel for you car. What that means is that the car will still be running on gasoline but will be using less of it.

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

The Water Hybrid System

In 1918, Charles Frasier patented the first hydrogen/oxygen generator and found they work best with low grade fuels such as gasoline or diesel fuel. In fact there are over 240 patents for carburetors and fuel injection systems that can get over 100 miles per gallon on record with the United States Patent Office. Most people believe that the reason they have not been fully researched and used on todays cars is that the oil companies dont want them to be developed and are using part of their huge $25 Billion per year in profits to buy patents and otherwise suppress the development of more fuel efficient vehicles. It took government mandates before the auto manufacturers began producing more fuel efficient and environmentally friendly cars. Water electrolysis is simply a method of causing the atoms in a water molecule to separate into their individual components which are hydrogen gas and oxygen gas. Basically the system takes the 12 volts available from your automobiles battery and sends it to the two electrodes in the hydrogen/ oxygen generator to vibrate the water molecules which produces heat until it raises the water in it to the boiling point (212 degrees Fahrenheit or 100 degrees centigrade) which converts the water to gas. At that point the hydrogen gas is pulled to the negative cathode rod and the oxygen is pulled to the positive anode rod. You can use plain tap water to supply the necessary electrolytes to kick start the process or use distilled water and add a commercial electrolyte such as potassium hydroxide. The combination of the hydrogen and oxygen gases when added to the combustion chamber of you car engine burn cleanly and increase the combustions energy output which in turn increases you miles per gallon. The system also has the effect of reducing most of the noxious emissions in your exhaust as well as slowing the carbon buildup in the engine.

Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

A Crash Course on Basic Mechanics

The following is a break down of information to help familiarize yourself with the basic mechanical elements you will be dealing with as you attach the system components. If you are already and experienced mechanic, this break down will most likely be unnecessary, however if you are either unfamiliar, or brand new, to mechanics this should help you understand what you are doing well enough that there is little chance of mistake. The first thing that you should look at is making sure you have the proper tools. Having the right tools on hand will save both time and aggravation.

A complete socket set of both metric and American Standard sizes A (inch) ratchet. A 3/8 ratchet. A ratchet A Phillips head screwdriver. A flat head screwdriver. (It is a good idea to have a variety of screwdriver sizes and lengths as some places can be tricky to reach with a basic screwdriver) A Drill with a full compliment of bits for drilling various holes to make places to attach fasteners for the various components. A rubber Mallet (preferably a two pound mallet, but a lighter or heavier one will be fine) Electrical tape (preferably automotive grade or better)

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Water Car Pro

Once you have assembled the tools get familiar with them. Handle them a bit and learn the feel of them. This may seem kind of silly, but having some familiarity with the tools you plan to use will help when you begin working on placing the components in the engine compartment.

Knowing your engine

To someone who is uninitiated in their workings an engine can seem a very intimidating thing. However with some basic knowledge of what makes up an engine, and the other parts that are often found under a hood, you do not have to feel as though you are a stranger exploring an alien landscape. While it is true virtually every engine is different, they all function in pretty much the same way, and thus share some similarity in design. With some basic knowledge you can feel confident that you are putting the various components you will build in the best place for your particular engine placement and hood space. SOME IMPORTANT TERMS TO REMEMBER: Perhaps one of the best ways to get to know an engine is to familiarize yourself with what various parts of the engine, and the compartment that it rests in are called. In this description we will take a back (the parts closest to the windshield) to front (the parts closest to the grill view. Firewall: Beginning in the back you have the firewall. This is a piece of steel that is designed to block a great deal of the heat the engine produces from flowing into the driver and passenger areas. In almost all cases the firewall extends from the top of the engine compartment all the way to the bottom where it is bent to make room for the transmission or transaxle assembly. Windshield fluid Container: This small box is generally located near the back of the engine and is pretty easy to find because it contains bright blue liquid. Engine: This is pretty self explanatory, but it is a good thing to know if you dont. The engine is the largest object you will find under the hood. If it is a

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Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

carbureted engine you will be able to find it by locating the drum type air filter located at the top of the engine. If the engine is fuel injected your will be able to find the engine by locating the fuel rail, or air intake. Throttle Assembly: The throttle assembly is generally located very close to the intake system of the car (both carbureted and fuel injection). It is easiest to find by having someone inside the care pump the gas (with the car off) and watching for the cables that move. When you find the cables that move, follow them to the point they go beyond the firewall and to the point that they connect to the engine, this whole thing can be considered the throttle assembly. Fuse Box: Your car may actually have the fuse box located under the dashboard. However, when they are placed in the engine compartment they are generally found in-between the air filter and firewall. They are pretty easy to find as they are generally clearly marked. Air Filter: In a carbureted engine, the air filter is generally held inside the drum shaped part of the carburetor. In a fuel injected system, the air filter is generally located along the edge of the engine compartment near the front. It is easily discernable because it is a large plastic box with several clamps along its edge. Also a large hose runs from the Air Filter box to the intake on the engine. Coolant box: This box is where the anti freeze and coolant are held to act as an overflow dump. These are generally found on the opposite side of the engine compartment from the air filter. They are generally a light yellow in color and marked fairly well as a coolant container. Battery: Almost always installed toward the front of the engine, the batter is easy to find as it is generally rectangular with two large wires connected to it. One wire will generally be colored black (to represent a negative electrical charge) and the other wire will be generally colored red (to represent a positive electrical charge). It is important to disconnect the negative battery cable any time you plan to conduct automotive repair as an accidental crossing of current can cause the car to start and move on its own. Other oddities: On occasion a manufacturer will experiment with putting something normally stored somewhere else in the engine compartment. If for some reason you find something you are unfamiliar with, this is okay. The main idea here is to be aware of how your engine is set up and to be

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Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

able to determine the best spot for the components once they have been built. Now that you have some basic familiarity with your engine and its various accessories, it is time to take a look at it to find the best place to mount the various components you will be creating. At this point open the hood and secure it to stay open. The first thing to figure out is if the engine is placed into the engine compartment straight or transversely. The easiest way to do this is to look at where the belts are placed. If the belts are on the front of the engine, then the engine is considered to be placed in the compartment straight. If the belts are located on the side of the engine, then the engine is considered to be transversely mounted. The reason this is important is because this will help to determine the best place to set your components. In transversely mounted engines the best place to install accessory components is either toward the front or rear of the engine compartment. If you choose to install towards the front of the engine be aware of where the battery is located. Because Batteries can be volatile at times, it is best to place your components on the opposite side of the battery. If you are choosing to place the components toward the rear, the best place is probably near the windshield fluid box. This will require less work when mounting the components, but if the room is not there, going to the other side works just as well. In An engine that has been placed into the compartment straight, the best place to find room is almost always along the side of the engine compartment. The good news is that generally there is more room to work. The bad news is that you will probably have to create your own clamps and brackets. Again take notice of the battery and if at all possible install the components away from the battery

Necessary System Components

You can either build all of your components or purchase some or all of them ready made. The system requires the following components: Electrolysis module to separate the hydrogen and oxygen

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Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

Electrolysis control module provides the correct pulse frequencies to the electrolysis module Water tank usually a tank with at least .5 gallon capacity A self priming pump water pump with a minimum 65 PSI rating, preferably 75 PSI or higher Bracket and mounting hardware for all of the devices Two check valves Flame arrestor optional but highly recommended Dashboard air/fuel monitor optional with a carburetor but highly recommended for fuel injection vehicles. Also its nice to have the ability to monitor the systems performance Hoses for the liquids and gases Electrical wire and connectors Water tank Water pump The figure below shows the basic system structure.

Electrolysis Control Module

Air Flow Monitor

Hydrogen/ Oxygen Generator Water Tank Water Pump

Legend
Battery

Electrical Connection Liquid or Gases

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Water Car Pro

Water Car Pro

Before you begin to build the system, you must measure the space available in your engine compartment and decide where each piece of the system will be mounted before you begin construction.

Hydrogen / Oxygen Generator

The basic unit is a cylindrical jar made of high temperature resistant materials such as CPVC which is sold in most plumbing supply or building supply stores. This material is also easy to work with if you have basic carpentry skills. Inside the hydrogen/oxygen generator housing you will put a basic induction coil and two cylindrical electrodes that are used to generate both the hydrogen and oxygen gases. The electrodes can be made from stainless steel. The electrolysis control module generates a signal to control the electrodes. The picture on the left below shows the logical diagram of the hydrogen/oxygen generator and the picture on the right shows an actual housing built using multiple electrodes. In the logical diagram the components perform the following functions: Pressure gauge optional but a good idea for safety and can be purchased at any hardware store. This will also allow you to diagnose any pressure problems easily should they begin to occur. Pressure release valve also optional but highly recommended for safety and can be purchased at any hardware store. Slosh guard optional but prevents water from splashing up onto electrical components can be made of CPVC or any other high heat resistant material. Coil an iron core wrapped with Teflon coated copper wire permanently glued in place that is used to generate alternating magnetic fields to excite the water molecules so the atoms separate Electrodes act as collectors for the gases where hydrogen is collected by the negative electrode (cathode) and oxygen is collected by the positive electrode (anode). Can be made of stainless steel rods or tubing. IT uses stainless collector plates suspended between the rods.

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Water Car Pro

Water inlet the source of the water used can be either a metal or high heat resistant PCVP fitting Electrode connectors these can be connected either at the top or bottom of the unit. Unlike the logical diagram, most are connected through the top of the cylinder Drain drain plug to allow the unit to be flushed made of high heat resistant CPVC NOTE: While several of these components are optional for the actual conversion to run correctly, it is very important to realize these should still be included as they are designed to increase the safety of the vehicle. After all saving money on gas does you no good if in the process you cause yourself injury.

The picture at the right above is of an actual constructed unit that uses multiple collector plates attached to both of the electrodes. This unit was made from CPVC pipe and completely homemade. Using clear pipe

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Water Car Pro

makes maintenance a lot easier since you can see the condition of the collector plates when you periodically drain the system.

Generator Coil
The generator coil is a magnetic inductive coil that creates a magnetic field when the pulse from the control module activates it. As soon as the pulse stops the magnetic fields collapses and reverses polarity. Then another pulse is applied, etc. This constant reversing of the magnetic field causes the water molecules to vibrate which will cause the atoms to separate and become gas. The water starts to bubble as the gases seek to escape.

Water Tank
Any high heat resistant plastic container with at least a half a gallon capacity will work. You will want to install a water level sensor in the tank so that the tank does not run dry and damage the pump and the hydrogen/ oxygen generator. If you dont want to install a water level sensor, you can use a tank with a clear strip on the side so you can easily monitor the water levels. It is also a good idea to install a vent hose in the cap that drains to the ground to prevent spills or sloshing on electrical components

Water Pump
You should get a self priming pump with a minimum rating of 65 PSI, preferably higher because it will have to overcome the 65 PSI maximum gas pressure that some cars produce as well as activate the check valve installed on the generator housing. A pump with a rating higher than 75 PSI is recommended.

Electrolysis Control Module

This is the control circuit for the entire system. There will be separate circuits (that can be built on the same circuit board or separate boards) to control the pulse signal generator, the magnetic induction
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Water Car Pro

coil, the electrodes, the monitoring sensors, the water tank pump, water level sensor and connections to the battery.

Square Wave Pulse Signal Generator

You want to build an electronic circuit that can output a square wave and vary the ratio of the square wave from 8 KHz to 260 KHz. The circuit drawn below can accomplish this function. You should be able to purchase all of the parts needed at radio shack on any store that sells electronic components. As you can see on the schematic, there are connections to the power switch, throttle adjuster potentiometer, pulse width potentiometer, electrodes and ground.

You can control the output frequency by adjusting the dip switches shown at the bottom. You will need an oscilloscope to test and see what frequencies each dip switch combination produces. To build the circuit you will need the following materials which should be available at radio shack: Two 12-Position Male Interlocking Connectors

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Water Car Pro

Two 12-Position Female Interlocking Connectors One Universal Component Board as shown below

One PC Board Kit (should include all necessary chemical solutions) One board Enclosure 8 x 6 x 3 Individual components listed on the circuit diagram Using the schematic shown above build the circuit Enclose the circuit board in the enclosure leaving the wires needed for connection to the systems outside the enclosure, battery lead, ground wire and the two wires to the electrodes. Use different colored wire so you will know which one is positive and which one is negative. You may need to drill holes to route the wires depending on what kind of enclosure you purchased

All of the circuits described in this book can be built on a single board and put into a single enclosure or built separately. Personally I prefer building them on separate boards and putting them in separate enclosures then mounting them together which means you will have to fabricate mounting brackets for the circuit boxes. If you do not know how to build circuits, you can probably find a hobbyist or even a technical school in your area that will be willing to help you build the circuits. Ready made circuits are also available on the internet.

Magnetic Field Generation Coil Circuit

Electromagnetic induction was discovered by Michael Faraday in 1831. Faraday found that if a conductor "cuts across" lines of magnetic force, or if magnetic lines of force cut across a conductor, a voltage, or EMF, is induced into the conductor. The reverse is also true. Current passed through wire wrapped around a ferrite (iron) core create a magnetic field while
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Water Car Pro

the current is flowing and for a short time after it stops. By using a pulse instead of a steady voltage, it is possible to cause the magnetic to alternate from positive to negative. The operating frequency for the magnetic induction coil is between 15 and 25 KHz. Basically this circuit creates an alternating magnetic field that causes the water molecules to vibrate until the atoms begin to separate from the water molecule. You can regulate the amount of hydrogen gas by adjusting the pulse width and amplitude using the potentiometers in the circuit.
15-20 KHz coil

12 VDC 4 7 6 3 10k 2N3055 8 1N4007

10k

0.1uf

1 uf

10k 2 NE555 CD4059A 3 Ground

Coil Construction You can probably purchase a coil meeting the specifications. Unless you are experienced in building coils, I recommend you purchase one or pay someone with experience to build it. However, if you want to build your own or you cant find the right size, use the following steps as a guide to building one. The necessary materials are: One iron (ferrite) toroid coil core 3.5 inches outside diameter by 2 inches inside diameter that is inch thick. Teflon coated 4d copper magnet wire approximately 500 feet Teflon etching solution

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Water Car Pro

Heat Shrink tubing (available at most automotive and hardware stores.) Hand wrap the copper wire around the core. Do not overlap on the wire on the first layer. Tape the end and brush the coil with epoxy. Let dry and repeat brushing each completed layer with epoxy until you only have a foot of wire left. It will take approximately 2,000 loops. When finished coat the coil in a few thin layers of CPVC cement After that is completely dry, soak the coil in FleuroEtch following the directions on the package, rinse in isopropyl or methyl alcohol, wash in warm soapy water and let air dry. You are doing this so glue will stick to the coil effectively and permanently. When the coil is completed, you can cut the wires to 4-6 inch lengths and use the Shrink Wrap to protect the protruding wires. This will also help prevent shorts from occurring while electricity is flowing.

System Monitor Circuit (Optional)

While optional, the dashboard sensor module is a good idea since it can warn you if any problems with your system develop. It connects to the generator pressure gauge (if installed), a cylinder head temperature gage (if installed), the water tank level sensor (if installed), and a generator water level sensor (if installed). This will allow a dummy light to flash should a problem occur letting you know that something is wrong. While generally if the conversion was installed correctly it will not have any problem, it is still a good idea to give yourself as many ways to monitor what is going on inside your engine as possible.

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Water Car Pro

Build the circuit according to the schematic show above and put it in an enclosure that can be mounted in (if there is room) or under the dash board. When the sensors indicate a low level the LED will light. The pressure gauge and temperature gauge should show the value either digitally or on a dial depending on what kind of gauges you buy.

Fuel Mixture Monitor

You really should install a fuel mixture monitor to monitor the fuel mixtures being run by your car. This type of sensor is also known as an E.G.O. (exhaust, gas, oxygen) monitor. Kits for this monitor are readily available for under $20 which is only a few more dollars than the individual parts. I recommend you buy one of the kits because you can use it as a tuning tool because they come with a small potentiometer so you can adjust the mixture if you want. This sensor will help you monitor the control module. They usually have 10 LEDs to show mixtures rich, lean and normal. The circuit connects to the oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust manifold. The picture below is an example of a one of these kits after it is built. You will need an enclosure and mounting brackets. Of course you could just piggyback

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it on the system monitor enclosure and mount them together. However this could cause a problem of accidental shorting so if you do piggyback them use some foam in between.

Follow the installation and connection instructions that come with the kit to connect the circuit.

Electrodes
Stainless steel is the best material to make the electrodes form. Since your housing should be between 10 and 18 inches in height. Some people make the electrodes from stainless switch plates available in any hardware store. See the picture below:

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Water Car Pro

You can use 1/4" SS steel threaded rod and SS 1/4" nuts & washers with 1/4" rubber grommets for insulators. The grommets can be made from any high heat resistant rubber tubing of the correct inner diameter. Stainless steel switch plates are drilled for 1/4" thread on one side and the opposite side is a 1/2" hole with a rubber grommet in the 1/2" hole, use 1/4" hose pieces to help space the plates to keep them from touching. If the collector plates touch you will get a electric short which could fry your electronic circuits. The top Stainless Steel 304 grade rod is the positive anode and the lower threaded rod is the negative cathode. The plates used in the picture are 7 stainless steel switch plates and went (-+-+-+-). Using one more cathode will produce more hydrogen than oxygen. You get a 2:1 ratio between the hydrogen and oxygen. The connectors from the tubes can go either through the top or the bottom of the hydrogen /

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oxygen generator housing. Most people tend to put them through the top even though my logical diagram shows them going through the bottom. The switch plates will need to be replaced every six to twelve months because of corrosion. All of the materials should cost less than $50. If you can find 316 grade stainless steel plates they will last a lot longer between replacements. The picture below shows the electrodes made from 316 perforated steel switch plates and clearly shows the proper way to assemble them.

Construction The following steps will serve as a guide for building the electrodes (refer to the picture above): Measure the proper length of each connecting rod for both the anode and cathode.

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Thread both ends of the rod unless you are using threaded rods (which can be found at most hardware stores, or made by using a tap and dye set) Thread the cathode rod through the bottom of the plates from the left being sure to place a rubber bushing which works best if made from high heat resistant rubber tubing of the proper inside diameter to slide snuggly over the rods. Snugly means that some effort is needed to slide the rubber over the rod, but not so tight that tearing of the rubber occurs. If you use a threaded rod like the one shown above lock the plates into position by tightening the nuts on both sides. The best way to do this is to run the base nut (the nut that will act as the back) up to the elbow (or bend) in the rod. Then place a back nut on the upper rod at about the same point. Once you have assembled the plates and rubber bushings slowly tighten the four nuts one quarter turn at a time. This will ensure an even amount of pressure is exerted along the entire electrode housing. Repeat this process for the anode rod.

Generator Housing
The easiest way to make a hydrogen / oxygen generator housing is to buy a clear water filter housing like the one shown below which should cost between $20 and $30 dollars.

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Water Car Pro

The housing already has a threaded top and connections for the water inlet. Just make sure that whatever you buy can withstand temperatures of at least 230 degrees Fahrenheit, higher if available. In this case you do not have to make the housing but will need to follow all of the other steps listed below to prepare the water filter housing to work as a hydrogen/oxygen generator.

However, if you prefer you can build the housing yourself using the following materials: CPVC schedule 80, 4 inch diameter pipe 10 to 18 inches CPVC schedule 80, 2 inch pipe for the water connector a couple of CPVC schedule 80, 4 inch straight couplings one 4 inch CPVC schedule 80, 4 inch cap One CPVC schedule 80, 4 inch threaded cap One 1/8 thick 24 x 48, CPVC One 1 diameter, 6 length, CPVC One pint can of CPVC cement or marine epoxy

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One 8 ounce can of pipe joint compound

Construction

The follow steps will guide you in building your own housing: Buy the 4 inch pipe with one end already threaded to match the threaded 4 inch pipe cap if possible. Use a miter box to cut the pipe to the correct length. Sand the edges smooth. Drill the proper size holes for your connectors: electrode rods, connector to the engine, pressure release valve and gauge if you plan to install one, etc in the top threaded cap Follow the directions on the cement container and cement the cap to the bottom of the pipe. Use high quality epoxy cement like J-B WELD which can be purchased at any hardware store. You can glue the tubing to the cap directly as shown below or you can bolt a tube fitting to the cap and seal it with the epoxy. Make sure you seal the tubing to the fitting if you use one.

See the two nuts on the top of the blue cap with rods protruding. They are what secure the electrode rods to the cap. The induction coil will be bolted above them. You will need to fabricate brackets to connect the housing to the car. Put it in the engine compartment if at all possible.

Magnetic Induction Coil

For the most efficient operation, the magnetic inductor should be placed approximately inch above the electrode ends. Make brackets

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that have holes drilled so the can be placed between the end cap and the nuts holding the electrode rods to hold the coil Use nylon shims to maintain the correct distance and provide electrical insulation. Install the induction coil. You can place another end cap over the coil to protect it if desired.

Check Valve
You will need to install a one way check valve between the hydrogen/oxygen generator and the carburetor or fuel injection to prevent blow back from the fuel lines as shown below. The check valve should be mounted after the optional flame arrester. The setup shown below does not have a flame arrester installed.

Flame Arrestor (Optional)

Cut a 3 inch piece of 1.5 inch CPVC tubing. Drill the correct sized hole for the hose connectors and then epoxy the connectors to the end caps. When the pipe is stuffed with steel wool, glue on the other end cap and install in the line from the hydrogen/oxygen generator to the engine check valve.

Water Tank Water Level Switch (Optional)

The water level switch is basically a float that has a mercury switch in it that will open if the water level gets too low. You will need to follow

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the instructions that came with the switch. Drill a hole through the cap on the water tank and run the wire through them.

Water Tank Over Flow Tube

Drill a second hole for the over flow tube in the water tank cap then either epoxy the tube directly to the cap or epoxy a tube connector to the cap. Attach a tube long enough to fall below the engine so any overflow water is drained to the pavement and not on any part of the engine compartment.

Fuel Pump Connector

Drill a hole in the bottom or side of the water tank and epoxy a hose connector that is the same diameter as the one on the self priming water pump you are installing.

Water Pump
You will need to buy the correct sized hoses and clamps, etc. needed to connect the fuel pump to the water tank and to the hydrogen/oxygen generator. System Assembly You should have already decided on the best location to mount all of the components before you began to construct them. Recheck to see that everything will fit before you begin the actual assembly.

Hydrogen/Oxygen Generator Assembly

Cut the electrode rods Sticking out of the cap to inch, file flat and deburr the edges. Use either pipe joint compound or heat resistant Teflon tape on all threaded connections to prevent leakage

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Do not apply excessive torque when assembling. You can easily damage the threads in PVC by over tightening. A good rule of thumb is to finger tighten first and then give the nut one and one quarter turn. Install all of the hose fittings and other connectors if you havent already done that when you were building the components. Use sealant, epoxy or joint compound to seal everything that has the potential for leaking. After everything has dried, visually inspect it and test whether anything leaks. Fix any problems you discover Screw the end cap into place. Mount the generator in the engine compartment

Water Tank
You will need to fabricate brackets to hold the water tank somewhere inside the engine compartment. In most vehicles there is usually enough room near the window washer tank to mount the water tank. You may be able to find brackets for an antifreeze overflow tank or a window washer tank in an automotive store that will work with your water tank. If not you will have to make the bracket. The easiest way to make a bracket is to take an easily bendable piece of metal such as aluminum or light gauge stainless steel and cut one length about the length of the water tank, and make another length of steel about twice the length of the water tank. First take the shorter length of metal and bend it around the water tank until you are about half way around. Next bend out both ends of the length to fit flush with where you plan to mount the tank. Now take the length you have just bent and drill a hole in the center. Next take the longer length place the top where you drilled the hole and run the length down the center of the water tank. When you reach the bottom of the water tank, bend the length of metal along its bottom and then again back up towards its top.

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Now drill a hole in the second length of metal to match the other hole you have drilled, run a bolt and nut through the hole and tighten until both lengths of metal are secure. This should allow for the water tank to slide in and be held firm. NOTE: If you have experience with and access to an arc welder, instead of using a drill and nuts, you can easily use the arc welder to weld the two pieces of metal together. Once the Water tank fits into the bracket as you would like place the bracket agains the area you plan to mount the bracket. Now take a drill and drill a whole through each end of the tapered length of metal that acts as the top of the bracket. Once you have the holes you can either drill new holes in the engine compartment, or make use of existing holes. If you are going ot make use of existing holes, be sure to place a washer in between any other parts that may contact with the water tank.

Water Pump
You will need a mounting bracket for the water pump as well. Again you may be able to find brackets that will work in an automotive parts store. Mount the pump in a location where you do not have to run extremely long tubing from the water tank or to the hydrogen/oxygen generator. Ideally you will mount it on the firewall somewhere in between the water tank and the hydrogen/oxygen generator. If the water pump does not have an internal check valve, you need to install one between it and the hydrogen/oxygen generator. This mount can be made in much the same way as the mount was made for the water tank. If you want you might even be able to combine the two into a single bracket. Just measure your steel lengths to be of the appropriate length and height and you should be just fine.

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Fuel Injector or Carburetor Adapter

You will need to contact an expert on gasoline engine conversions and tell them what engine you have and explain that the water-hybrid is designed to switch back and forth between hydrogen and gasoline fuels. There are several online forums where you may be able to find someone who knows what you need to know. In particular ask if it is possible to install a Beam-Garretson Adapter. Once you have the proper adapter. Connect the line from the hydrogen/oxygen generator to the flame arrestor and then to the one way check valve and finally to the carburetor or fuel injector adapter. While it would be nice if a long drawn out text explanation could cover this part, there are several variables that need to be accounted for when making this conversion. While the goal of this guide is to allow you to make the conversion alone, there are some things that are honestly best left to those who have experience. With that said, most people with the knowledge you are looking for will be more than happy to simply supervise your work, this allows you the feeling and experience, while making sure you are not compromising your safety beyond and unreasonable degree.

Throttle Assembly
Do not buy cheap potentiometers. They dont last that long and will usually cause problems. Get a precision potentiometer, series 578, 100k and a one foot length of CPVC rod that is inches in diameter. The following steps are a general guide for installing the throttle assembly since there are hundreds of possible linkages in use on different car models: Find a good location for installing the sleeve and arm assembly and potentiometer mounting bracket. Make a bracket for the potentiometer

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Cut approximately a 1.5 inch length of the inch CPVC rod. Measure the diameter of your throttle linkage Drill a hole of that diameter lengthwise in the rod Cut the rod in half length wise and sand smooth Cut a sleeve arm from 1/8 CPVC sheet. Drill a hole for the throttle assembly in one end of the arm about a from the end and bevel each end of the hole about 1/16 deep. Epoxy the mating surfaces of the arm and sleeve. When dry sand smooth Position the shaft of the 100K throttle potentiometer at the midpoint of its range of rotation. Using a marking pen, mark an alignment line between the shaft and bushing at the point shown below

Use a #41 drill bit to drill a hole in the shaft at a point in line with the shaft alignment mark, and 3/16 in from the shaft end. Cut a 6 length of 3/32 stainless steel welding rod. Temporarily install the potentiometer into the mounting bracket. Slide the welding rod into the shaft hole. Align the shaft and busing marks and rotate the pot body so that the rod points directly upward (parallel with the front edge of the

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bracket). Place a mark at the point where the anti-rotation pin contacts the bracket. Remove the potentiometer and rod from the bracket. As shown above, cut a curved 3/32 wide slot extending from each side of the marked point. Temporarily install the p potentiometer onto the bracket and check that the anti-rotation pin fits into the slot and does not bind in the slot as the potentiometer body is rotated. File or sand as needed until it rotates freely. Attach the potentiometer to the bracket with the furnished nut and lock washer. Put the rod into the shaft hole. Rotate the potentiometer body to align the rod parallel with the front edge of the bracket and firmly tighten the mounting nut. Flush the hole with acetone Apply a thin layer of epoxy to one end of the rod and insert it into the shaft hole, allowing it to extend about 1/8 beyond the end of the hole. Epoxy the shaft into place and let dry for at least 24 hours.

Electrical Hookup
Install crimp on connectors on the electrode and coil connections. Connect the control circuit switch and monitor circuits which you mounted on or under the dashboard. Using the circuit diagrams connect the switch wires as indicated. Triple check to make sure everything is properly connected. Use an ohmmeter to test for shorts and opens before applying power. Turn the switch on If there are no obvious problems, touch the electrical components to make certain that nothing is overheating. Turn the switch off and take the car for a test drive to make sure everything is working fine. Connect the water pump to power

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Fill the tank Following the manufacturers instructions, set the carburetor or fuel injection adapter for hydrogen operation. Let the car idle until the engine warm up. Turn the generator switch on. Gas pressure should be between 12 psi and 62 psi. Take it for a test drive. This picture below is of an installed system. As you can see the hydrogen/oxygen generator is installed on the firewall right next to the water tank.

Maintenance You basically can fill the water tank with tap water and just go. However, you need to flush the water tank periodically at least once a month. Every few months use something like CLR to remove the mineral deposits on the generator parts. The exact procedure will depend on how you constructed the hydrogen/oxygen generator. If you installed a drain plug, just attach a host to it and let the water drain out with the pump on until it runs clear.

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If you used a water pump housing, you will need to remove the generator from its bracket and unscrew the bottom part of the housing as shown below. Then you can empty the container and flush it with a garden hose. The water is red because of the rust from the collector plates which is why they need to be replaced every six to twelve months.

Cold Weather
You can either create a rechargeable battery operated heating circuit to keep your water from freezing or add isopropyl alcohol to the water tank. I havent actually designed the circuit but you could use a water temperature sensor in both the water tank and the generator that will turn on the heater when the water temperature reaches 33.9 degrees. You can use a small heating element like the ones used to warm a single cup of coffee or make your own out of a stainless steel rod. You want the heater to maintain the 34 degree temperature so I would design it to turn off at 35 degrees. I would probably use a 12 volt moped or small motorcycle battery to power the two heaters. That

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way the heater battery can be recharged by the engine when it is running. If you add alcohol to the water, you may need to adjust the frequency of the pulse by either adjusting the potentiometer or resetting the dip switches if you gas mileage goes down. If you installed the air fuel monitoring sensors I recommended you can use that to tweak performance as well.

Diesel Engines
The simple answer is yes, all of the systems described in this book can be used with diesel engines. One inventor claims to have converted a John Deer diesel engine. They show results from a dynamometer test performed at Perdue University in 2007. The engine experienced a 15% increase in work performed over its entire operating range. The increase was an average of 30% in the normal operating ranges for throttle setting and engine RPMs. These tests were done on a mechanical pump injection system.

An independent trucker tried one of the systems on his tractor trailer with a Detroit Diesel engine and experienced a 20% increase in mileage with a hydrogen generator alone. There are a dozen companies in North America that market a hydrogen only device for diesel vehicles that are claimed to achieve 8-15% increase in efficiency at the cost of between $6000 and $15,000.

Kits and Other Systems

Currently there are no kits available for the hydrogen hybrid system. However there was an announcement that one is being developed. Some of the types of systems available are: HHO/ Browns Gas Generator this system consisting of a hydrogen/oxygen generator that uses distilled water and baking soda as a catalyst and injects the gas into the carburetor or air intake valves. The picture below shows a kit available for around $1000. The wire strippers are no longer included..

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Or you can just purchase the hydrogen/oxygen generator pictured below for around $300.

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Water Vapor Boosting System this system creates a hydrogen rich water vapor and injects it into the air fuel mixture. It is not particularly efficient and its inventor claims it will boost gas mileage by about 10%. Charged Water System this is a system using two generators, one using distilled water and baking soda and the other using tap water and hydrogen peroxide, a water pump and a battery charger. The inventor claims a 40-50% boost in gas mileage. Steam Injection System this system uses exhaust manifold heat to boil water which is then injected into the inlet manifold. The idea behind this method is that the steam will mix with the cooler air and fuel mixture and will condense into a dense fine water vapor cloud before entering the cylinders where the condensing steam creates heat which helps to vaporize the liquid fuel droplets. The picture below is a diagram of a stem injection system. No kits are available yet for this system.

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The Future of Hydrogen

We are moving towards a hydrogen economy and it is clear that the United States has adopted hydrogen as the alternative fuel to replace petroleum. Using clean hydrogen to power homes or business facilities would completely eliminate our dependence on oil and improve the current state of our environment. Politicians are planning for the switch to hydrogen as a fuel for internal combustion vehicles. Unfortunately, they are only planning for the oil companys version of the future of hydrogen. They envision a future where the oil companies own the refueling stations and get to control the cost of the fuel. For example, Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger of California has proposed the 2010 initiative, a plan to establish at least one hydrogen refueling station every twenty-five miles along California's major highways. He has also vowed to convert his Hummer to use gaseous hydrogen as well. Currently, there are few refueling stations in

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California. These stations have been constructed for demonstration purposes rather than for commercial use. The governor of California has expressed a desire to commercialize these refueling stations. Canada has recently invested 215 million dollars in their hydrogen economy. Alan Rock, Minister of Industry, and Herb Dhaliwal, Minister of Natural Resources, are interested in building refueling stations from British Columbia to their border shared with Washington. Development will hopefully continue south and connect with California.

Patents and Papers

This are a list of the patents granted by the United States Patent Office for using water as a fuel by using a hydrogen/oxygen generator. Stan Meyer's water-splitter patent 4,936,961. This patent provides the details of how Stan was able to break water into hydrogen and oxygen gasses while using very little electrical power in a resonant circuit. Stan Meyer's water-splitter patent application WO 92/07861. This shows the circuitry used by Stan to hold his water-splitter cell automatically on it's resonant point at all times. Christopher Eccles' water-splitter patent 2,324,307. This details a cell which works on electrical pulses like Stan Meyer's but which has the electrodes outside the electrolysis cell. Stan Meyer's car-conversion patent 4,389,981. This shows a method of using hydrogen/oxygen gas mix injected into a vehicle engine as fuel to replace fossil fuels. Stan Meyer's water-injector spark-plug 1991 patent application 2,067,735. This shows a method of using water injected into a vehicle engine as fuel to replace fossil fuels.

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Stan Meyer's gas-burner patent 4,421,474. This shows how Stan used hydrogen/oxygen gas mix in burners to provide heating. Henry Puharich's water-splitter patent 4,394,230. This shows how Henry splits water into hydrogen and oxygen gasses using less power than is obtained by burning the gasses afterwards. It also covers his theories on how water can be split in an article written by him. Shigeta Hasebe's high-efficiency electrolyzer patent 4,105,528. This shows how to undertake electrolysis of water with at least 10 times the gas output of Farady's perceived maximum output. This simple cell should be able to double the actual measured outputs of the cell used to obtain the patent. Charles Garrett's hydrogen-carburetor patent 2,006,676. Charles claimed that he could run a car directly on water alone using this method where the air is drawn up through the electrolyte in his cell. Archie Blue's electrolysis bubbler patent 4,124,463. Archie's cell operates very much like that of Charles Garrett, where air is drawn up through the electrolyte to dislodge the gas bubbles which have been formed by the electrolysis process. Ruggero Santilli's Underwater Arc Gas Generator patent 6,183,604. This patent shows a method of continuous hydrogen production through the use of a long-life electrode underwater arc system. Stanley Meyer's patent on his water-splitting spark-plug device 5,149,407. This patent shows how Stan was able to run an engine through water injection directly into the engine cylinders and how the water was charged before injection.

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Xogen's Water-Splitting Patent 6,126,794. This shows another version of Stan Meyers water-splitting cell, produced by his brother in law Stephen Chambers. Juan Aguero's Hydrogen/Steam Patent Application EP0,405,919. This patent application describes a high efficiency method of converting water into hydrogen and oxygen gasses to be used a fuel for an engine. Stephen Horvath's Hydrogen Car Patent 3,980,053. This patent shows a method for water electrolysis which it is claimed is able to power an engine. It shows the construction parts for adapting an existing car. The November 2005 US Patent Application 2005/0246059 A1 from Stephen Meyer (brother of the late Stan Meyer), providing important information on the process of water-splitting. US Tax Advantages If you use your vehicle for business you can deduct all of the cost of converting your vehicle to a water powered car. For individuals, the federal tax code specifically states that only certain new vehicles can receive a tax credit for hybrid vehicles and most of those credits are being phased out as more of the hybrids have been sold. However, some states off a tax deduction so you need to check what is available in your state.

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DISCLAIMER
All of the material in this book is provided as information only. No warranty with respect to the content and/or data provided or its suitability or applicability to any specific purpose. All data is provided As-Is, As Available without warranty of any kind.

References
Brownsgas.com C. Michael Holler, The Dromedary Newsletter Carl Cella, A Water Fueled Car Nexus Magazine, Oct-Nov 1996. Free-energy-info.co.uk George Wiseman, The Gas-Saver and HyCo Series Hydrogenboost.com Hydrogengarage.com Peter Lindemann, Where in the World is All the Free Energy. Stanley Meyer, Method for Production of a Fuel Gas Stephen Chambers, Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or Parahydrogen Stephen Chambers, Prototype Vapor Fuel System. William S. Power, The Hydrostar

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This Guide Is For Your PERSONAL USE ONLY.

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