097700592066
097700592066
097700592066
INTRODUCTION OF INDUSTRY
Bandhani- tie and dye is the most important traditional handiwork of India.Bandhani is also called Bandhej came originally from the word Bandhan. Bandhani has the unique expression and represents the culture, tradition, and heritage of our country. Such products can be utilitarian, aesthetic, creative, culturally attached, decorative, functional, traditional, religiously and socially symbolic and si significant. gnificant.
The wide variety was evolved over the centuries because of its close links with the religious and social customs of different people people. It is treated as a symbol of married life. life.Bandhani is manufactured manually by the creative and skilled artisa artisans ns whose work is distinguished by their inherent good taste and by the economical use of the raw materials.
The elaborate, rich and colourful embroidery, magnificent mirror work, vibrant colours, beau beautiful tiful designs of bandhanisarees of India have appreciators tors across the globe. globe.More More than 10,000 people are employed in making bandhani bandhani.
EVOLUTION OF BANDHANI
The history of Bandhani or tie and dye can be dated back to pre historic times. Mordant dyed textiles found at Mohenjo-Daro sites, dated 2000 BC prove that there was knowledge of the use of mordant in the art of dyeing to make the colour permeate the fabric. It is possible that resist dyeing was also practiced.
The earliest evidence of the use of Bandhani cloth in India is in the depiction on the walls of Ajanta Caves, which dates from the 6th to 7th century A.D. Here women are shown wearing blouses with clearly discernible simple dotted tie dye patterns. There are also green jackets with such patterns.
Other earliest reference is in BanasHarshacharita or the life of king Harsha (606-648 AD). The poet writes that at the wedding of one of the princes sister, all matrons were skilled in many sorts of textiles patterning, some of which were in the process of being tied (bandhyamana).
Several designs are with the Tribundi pattern (group of three dots) popular in Gujarat upto the 20th century. Another Gujarat text of the 15th century confirms that Mandvi in Kachchh was renowned for its dyeing odhanis even then and in the second quarter of the 16 th century. It is still an important tie and dye centre. The Bandhani technique has come to Kachchh from Sindh and from Kachchh it was introduced to Jamnagar.
The Bandhani work has been exclusivelycarried out by Muslim KhatriCo mmunity of Kutchh. Those MuslimKhatri women are the custodian to thi s art from one generation to another.
So bandhani is manufactured across the world in many countries. It is known by various names in different countries. Different techniques are used by various countries across the world to make the wide range of products for different purposes.
In country like Japan the shibori named tie dye is practiced since last eight century. It includes a number of labour intensive technique where fabric is stitched and then dyeing takes place. Tie dyeing was known in the US by 1909. It uses different shapes, colours, etc.
Tie dye techniques have also been used in West Africa. Were cloth is tie and dyed and then traditionally embroidered in traditional patterns. Thus in different countries different ways of tying and dying takes place.
Mudmee tie-dye is mainly created in Thailand and neighboring part of Laos. It uses different shapes and colors than other types of tie-dye, and the colors are, in general, more subdued. Plangi and tritik are Indonesian words, derived from javanese words, for methods related to tie-dye, and bandhna is a term from India. Ikat is a method of tie-dying the warp or weft before the cloth is woven.
BANDHANI IN INDIA
Bandhani is an ancient art practiced by people mainly of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Jaipur, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer and Jamnagar are among the important centers producing odhnis, saris and turbans in bandhani. Artisans from different region of Kutch in Gujarat, Mandsaur, Indore and Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh, Jaipur, Sikar, and Rajasthan produce exquisite bandhanis.
At present most of the bandhani produced in India is made in Kutch andSaurashtra regions in Gujarat. The different range of patterns, which are made for different communities in Rajasthan, Haryana and Punjab by the Sikar producer.
Another form of tie and die, which is a specialty of Rajasthan, is the lahriya and mothra. Here opposite end of length of the cloth is pulled and rolled together. They are tied and dyed in different colors producing diagonal multi-colored line. When the same process is repeated by using the opposite ends, a check, mothra is created. This is done in Jaipur and Jodhpur. This technique was used generally for turbans made for Rajput in Rajasthan.
Another famous Bandhani technique in North Bihar is to create bold patterns in single colour. The same technique is also used at Madurai in Tamil Nadu for the production of Sungradhisarees. Thus in this way different techniques are used by various countries across in India for different purposes.
BANDHANI IN GUJARAT
The tie-dyed fabrics of Gujarat are perhaps the best produced in India. The Bandhani is an ancient, dyeing technique, which is widely, produced in two regions in Gujarat, namely, Saurashtra and Kachchh. Saurashtra is aregion of western India, located on the Arabian Sea coast of Gujarat state. Saurashtra consist of seven districts namely, Rajkot, Junagadh, Jamanagar, Bhavnagar, Porbander, Amereli and Surendranagar.
In Saurashtra, Jamnagar is the city where the Bandhani is principally produced and in Kachchh region, Bandhani is principally produced across entire Kachchh district.Kachchh is virtually an island, bounded by the Arabian Sea in the west, the gulf of Kachchh in south and southeast and Rann of Kachchh in north and northeast.
The highest intensity of Bandhani dyeing is in Kutch, but some of the best works are from Jamnagar and Saurashtra, on the Southern coast of Gulf of Kutch.
'Bandhani' sarees are easily available in all the bazaars and shopping centers of Jamnagar and here you can also find them brocaded with fine gold thread zaris.This tradition in India of Bandhani print dresses is practiced in Jamnagar, in the state of Gujarat and Rajasthan.
COMMUNITY
Traditionally practiced by Khatri artisans though now other communities are also adapting the profession. The meticulous process of tie and dye though worn by diverse community is created mainly by the Khatri artisans.
The chitarnar or the artist draws the patterns on the fabric, the bandnari or knotter pinches and ties the dots and the Ranganaar or dyer who finally dyes the textile piece. Textiles where more than three to four colors are used, the lightest hue is dyed followed by tying and thereafter dyeing it in brighter color.
COLOUR USED
Varied range of patterns illustrated by white or yellow dots, composed on bright deep red and black background. Red, maroon, pink, yellow, ochre, orange, green, mauve, violet, sky blue, indigo, black, white and many-many more hues.
DYE USED
Vat dyes:
Vat dyes are ancient dyes based on the original natural dye, indigo Cotton, as well as other fibers, can be dyed with vat dyes.It can be done whenever a solid or even shade, i.e., the same color over the entire garment, is wanted. It can be done using almost any dye, including fiber reactive dye, direct dye, acid dye, etc.
Direct dyes:
Also known as hot water dyes, direct dyes can be used with hot water and require no binding or exhausting agents. They are convenient but lack in color fastness and wash fastness. Theyis used on cotton, silk and nylon. The colors of direct dyes are duller than those provided by reactive dyes. They can be found in powder form as well as in the form of a liquid concentrate.
Napthol dyes:
These are two sets of chemicals which, upon reaction, produce a third chemical, essentially colourful in nature. The fabric is dyed with one and later printed with the other. The chemical reaction produces a third colour. Drawback of this process is that there are just a few chemicals available which produce colours upon reaction.
10
Procion dyes:
Procionfiber reactive dyes are specially formulated for cellulose fibers like cotton, linen and rayon. They also work well on silk.They are considered 'cold water'" dyesas for the auxiliary chemicals, all you need are salt and soda ash. Synthrapol is optional but very helpful for rinsing out excess dye.Procionfiber reactive dyes can also be used on protein fibers but different auxiliaries are needed and the dye bath must be simmered.
MOTIFS
Animals like elephant, peacock. Geometric forms. Ladies dancing or playing instrument. Lotus flower called as kanwalphool& leafy patterns as ambadal. Rasmandala done on silk. Saree borders done with matichar patterns. Barahbagh- 12 borders. Bavanbagh- 52 gardens are done in gharcholusarees.
11
12
PROCESS OF BANDHANI
Though simple, tie & die is quite time consuming and tedious process. A single piece of cloth, with intricate bandhej design, takes more than a week to prepare. In this process, each section is carefully dipped in paint and tied again to bring yet another contrast in color. The process starts withLikhai,Bhandhai Bhandhai and Ranghai Ranghai.
1. LIKHAI LIKHAI: The process of Bandhani making starts with drawing the design on the tracing paper. The design is the punched with Needles Needles. A weak dye solution is mixed to mark out complex patterns.
13
Special metal frames are used to print out the tying guides.
14
2. BHANDHAI BHANDHAI: Tying the fabric on the marks with fine thread. thread.Usually Usually the women are assigned to the fine craft of tying while the men prepare the dye. The process is outsourced to females in nearby households. The time taken for tying work depends upon Bandhani designs.
Then the tied fabric is ready to dye. The fabric is wrapped tightly in a plastic foil.
15
Mixing the dye in water and heating to make the dye bath.
16
The dyed fabric is carefully rinsed ready for the second colour.
17
Tying the fabric and binding with polythene to resist the second dye.
After the second dyeing the fabric it is rinsed in cold water. water.After the process of tying and dyeing, the cloth is washed with soft water to remove the color impurities.
18
The ties are not removed until the fabric is sold, to show that it is genuine bandhani.The ties fold Bandhani remains closed till they are sold or at most, they are opened in one corner to show the colour schemes. As long as ties are there, the customer can be sure he is not buying an imitation .
Then, to remove the color knots, the process of hitching is done. Two ends of the cloth material are caught by two persons. It is a little hitched in the open air or in the sunlight so that the knots are automatically removed and the tied parts are free.
The colors that are traditionally used in the process are vibrant with yellow, black, red and green being the predominant ones.
19
20
21
ReseaRch
Comprehensive Case -Study ofBandhani Industry in Jamnagar
22
INTRODUCTION TO RESEARCH
Research is simply the process of arriving as dependable solution to a problem through the planned and systematic collection, analysis and interpretation of data.
Observes
Collection of data
Person
Phenomen
Conclusion
Therefore, research means to observe the phenomenon again and again from different dimensions. The research is a process of which a person observes the phenomena again and again and collects the data on the basis of data he draws some conclusions.
Research is the most important process for advancing knowledge for promoting progress and to enable man to relate lore effectively to his environment, to accomplish his purpose and to resolve his conflicts. Although it is not the only way, it is one of the more effective ways of solving scientific problems. It simply seeks the answer of certain questions which have not been answered so far and whose answers are not available in the literature i.e. human knowledge.
23
Our research aims at studying the Bandhani industry in detail which includes the origin, the current trends and scenario, the printing process, the opportunities and challenges, potential threats to the industry and steps to overcome them. We have made an attempt to visualize the condition of the industry from the view point of all the stakeholders towards the change.
We have conducted environmental analysis with the help of Porters Five Forces Model, Value Chain Analysis, SWOT analysis and Stakeholder Analysis and also primary analysis with the help of graphical data interpretation and hypothesis testing which has helped us to find out the key drivers to change.
24
STATEMENT OF PROBLEM
Bandhani industry, being a very old industry reflecting art, culture, creativity and history of our country faces many challenges in the present scenario. The ever changing fashion and arrival of new and trendy attires have forced the original Bandhani to adapt new designs, new patterns and new colours. The industry has attracted a very little attention of government towards its growth and development. The Bandhani manufacturing units are very small units scattered widely and very less efforts have been made to make them clustered.
This made us do a research work on the challenges of the Bandhani Industry and ways to improve the scenario. This will help us to study and put in practice the management principles.To analysis the unorganized market which can be converted into organized market on a large scale of operation. The main statement of the research is:-
25
RESEARCH OBJECTIVES
With an outlook of the every marketing research, it has been conducted for specific objective. The objectives must also be clearly defined. Therefore, that research gets clear idea about their task. Also after completion of research project the whole project can be evaluated based on the research objective. Thu Thus, s, it is at most important to define the research objective objective.
The purpose of research is to discover answers through the application of scientific procedures. The main aim of research is to find out the truth which is hidden and which has not been discove discovered red as yet. Though each research study has its own specific purpose, we may think of research objectives as falling into number of broad grouping: grouping
Chart: - 2 (Objectives)
26
Primary Objective:-
Secondary Objective:-
27
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
The Hindustan Times 15th April 2008 an article on Bandhani Industry in Gujarat & Jamnagar:Article highlighted the Bandhani work, a popular form of tying and dyeing of pieces of cloth is not only a creative artistic fashion but also an avenue for lucrative business in Gujarat's Jamnagar
District.Introduced 400 years ago in Jamnagar, this ancient art has today achieved worldwide popularity."It is very popular in worldwide. It has different designs, patterns and variety. It is a process in which the fabric in intricate patterns is tied with nails, beads and grains.
This articleis of Bandhani Industry. Bandhani and immediately what comes to mind is bright fabric of immaculate quality and rich history. Now, the spoiler - the brand is in urgent need of being rescued from the clutches of unscrupulous dealers who are peddling low quality products in the name of Bandhani.The fabric is specially tie-dyed by hand. The art of making these cotton and silk clothes of vibrant designs and colours have been passed down through generations. The Sindhis, Muslims and Khatris of Kutch are known to have practiced this art.'It can be a turban, sari, or even dupattas and the material may be cotton or silk. Bandhani refers to particular areas in Jamnagar and Kutch districts where this ancient art was prevailing,'
28
A Study conducted by Mr. R.M. Shanker (The Ahmedabad Textile Industry's Research Association), a research officer of Atira:-
He found that today this fabric runs the risk of losing its identity as the name is being attached to low quality products. The government plans to combat that by attaching a geographical indication (GI) tag to the real thing.
'The union ministry of textiles has in consultation with state governments prepared a list of 5,000 textile items and under the initiative of the United Nations the Bandhani saris and Kutchi shawls could be included for GI registration,' Shanker told IANS.
GI refers to a country or a place that conveys an assurance of quality, antiquity and distinctiveness, Sankar elaborated.However, and GI recognition can take time. It is the stakeholders who have to file the application for GI registration and Atira is only a facilitator.
The government has now realized bogus Bandhani fabric could sound the death knell of the original ones. To save the Bandhani tradition, the commerce ministry had recommended to the World Trade Organisation (WTO) to cover Bandhani in the Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) and GI
A part of the WTO agreement is about IPR. It covers several industries like pharmaceuticals. Called intellectual trading and based on intellectual products comprising know-how, designs and innovations in textiles too are now being covered.In India the textile ministry is doing further research on the 5,000 textile products selected for their antiquity and are working towards preventing misuse of their brand name.
29
A project report on BandhaniTowards a blend of Traditionality and Efficiency by SnehaSumeria&Vaishali Shah (2010) from B. K. school of Management, Ahmedabad
The study was conducted to suggest ways in which Bandhani printing units can be more effective in the face of their challenges, by retaining their unique traditionality and blending modern management practices in their operations. They analyzed different parameters which helped them to try and achieve research objectives. They showed the different ways to improve the scenario which help to put into practice the management principles.
30
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
31
RESEARCH METHOD
Research method is the conceptual structure within which research is conducted; it constitutes the blueprint for the collection, measurement and analysis of data. There are numerous specific designs, which can be classified into four broad categories.
Descriptive Method:
The descriptive method designs enable researchers to describe or present picture of a phenomenon or phenomena under investigation. The methodology involved in such designs is mostly qualitative in nature producing descriptive data, i.e. peoples own written or spoken words and observable behavior.To describe the characteristics of relevant group use of descriptive method is used.
Diagnostic Method:
Diagnostic refers to scientific differentiation among various conditions or phenomena for the purpose of accurately classifying these conditions. The diagnostic research paradigm represents the most typical and simple problem-solving strategy of the helper faced with problems and crisis on the job. Data for diagnosis can be obtained in four major ways: case study method, interview, clinical observation and collaborative diagnosis.
32
Exploratory Method:
The exploratory method represents the earlier stage of science. This significant observation implies that all sciences must have at the beginning had an approach which was purely exploratory. This includes secondary data analysis, experience surveys, focus groups and twostage designs.
Experimental Method:
An Experimental method is intended to demonstrate cause and affect relationship. Such a method can measure degree of change in one variable y when another variable x changes.
Exploratory & Analytical research design has been used as it was the most appropriate amongst other methods. Analytical Research design will help us answer the questions related to who, what, where& How Who who are the various stakeholders? What what is their impact on the industry as a whole? What is the present scenario about the industry and what efforts are needed to improve it? Where where are the efforts needed in the improvement of the present scenario? How How the attributes are influencing or affecting in the industry?
33
SAMPLING DESIGN
A sample design is a definite plan for obtaining a sample from given population. It refers to the technique or the procedure the researcher would adopt in selecting items for the sample. Sample design may well lay down the number of items to be included in the sample i.e. the size of the sample. Sample design is determined before data are collected. There are many sample designs from which a researcher can choose. Some designs are relatively more precisely and easier to apply than others. Researcher must select/ prepare a sample design which should be reliable and appropriate for research study.
It is not possible to study the whole population every time in a research project. The study of whole population requires a lot of time & money. So most of respondents are done by choosing samples from the population. Sample survey involves less cost & can give accurate results if the sampling method is designed properly suitable to the research topic.
SAMPLING METHOD:
For this research purpose, Convenience based on Non-probability sampling has been used.
SAMPLING UNIT:
The sampling unit is the entity to which I have to follow during the whole study. In the context of project study the sampling unit consists of
34
SAMPLING SIZE:
It plays an important role in research. It should be so selected so that the samples are representative of the whole population. In the context of the project study, 20 units (involved in manufacturing) located in Jamnagar has been taken into consideration as it forms the main part our research. The units have been taken on the basis of their size of operation, years in business and size in terms of turnover. The others include the experts, dyers, tiers, agents, members of the association and sales workforce.
SAMPLING UNIVERSE:
The largest entity to be described of which the sample is a part. The universe for this study is Jamnagar City only.
SAMPLING MEDIA:
The media used in the sample study of the research through Questionnaire media method.
35
COLLECTION OF DATA
Data means observations or evidences. The scientific educational research requires the data by means of some standardized research tools or self-designed designed instrument. The task of data collection begins after a research problem has been defined and research design /plan chalked out. t. While deciding about the method of data collection to be used for the study, the researcher should keep in the mind two typeset data viz.
In the he context of the project study, the sources of the data used by me for this project are the both types of s sources.
36
ThePrimary data are generally collected through observation method, interview method, questionnaires and schedule. The Secondary Dataare generally collected through published data like books, magazines, newspapers, reports, journals, internet etc.
Moreover these interviews were useful for entangling the complex topics and produced a higher response rate amongst the interviewees. The semi structured interviews helped us to probe deeper into response given by an interviewee.
The semi structured interview & questionnaire were selected for the primary data collection as it were more appropriate and relevant with regards to our respondent
37
Techniques used in questionnaire: Multiple choice multiple response scale Numerical scale Dichotomous scale Likert scale Ranking scale Data Analysis and Data Interpretation:
We have analyzed the primary data through the observation of the operations of different units which were taken into considerations on different parameters. We have used different management models for data analysis and interpretation as follows. Value Chain analysis Porters Five Force Model Stakeholders Analysis SWOT Analysis.
38
39
40
In most industries, it is rate for a single organization to undertake in inhouse all of the activities from the product design to the delivery of the final product to the final customers. It is this process of specialization within the value network on a set of linked activities.
The quality of a customer durable product like apparels, when it reaches the final purchaser is not influenced by the limited set of activities which are undertaken within the manufacturing company itself but also determine by the he quality from the suppliers .
41
Primary Activities:
Primary activities are directly concerned with the creation or delivery of a product service and can be grouped into five main areas as follows:
1)
Inbound logistics
There are the activities concerned with receiving, storing and distributing the inputs to the product. They include materials handling, stock control, transport, etc. Raw materials are grey cloth, colours-dye and threads are received from various suppliers and stored in the warehouses. There after they are distributed to tiers and dyers.
2)
Operations
It transforms the various inputs into the final product by printed designs, tying and dying. It moves from one craftsmen i.e. from tiers to dyers and then to whole sellers and retailers at appropriate time and quantities. It takes around 1 month to 1 year to complete the process of tying and dying.
3)
It collects stores and distributes the product to customers. It includes warehousing and distribution to the distributors and sometimes directly to customers. Out bound logistics does not require much attention as the industry is supply driven. It becomes difficult strike a balance between supply and demand. As the supply is limited and cannot be increased unless number of employees and hours increase.
42
4)
It provides the means whereby the customers are made aware of the product of service and are able to purchase it. This would include sales administration, advertising, selling and so on. Exhibitions at national and international level have helped in marketing the Bandhani products. However manufactures do not pay much attention to this aspect. They are satisfied with their current levels of operation.
5)
Services
It includes all those activities which enhance or maintain the value of a product or service. Here services like roll polish, mirror work, embroidery work, etc are provided as per the customers wishes. They attend their customers in a very polite and good manner that they lure to buy their products.
Support Activities
Support activities help to improve the effectiveness or efficiency of primary activities. They can be divided into four areas as mentioned below:
1)
Procurement
This refers to the process of acquiring the various resource inputs to the primary activities as such, it occurs in many parts of the organization. Raw material like grey cloth is procured from various sources at the tying stage and colors are purchased at the dying stage.
43
2) Technology development All value activities have a technology even if it is just knowhow. The key technologies are concerned with the product or with processes or with a particular resource. No such technology oriented machines are used here but emphasis is given on innovation and designing new products with blend of different colors.
3) Human Resource Management This is particularly important area which transcends all primary activities. It is concerned with all those activities involved in recruiting, managing, training, developing and rewarding the people within the organization. Agents have played a very important role in managing the tiers and dyers efficiently.
4) Infrastructure It consists of the structures and routines of the organization which are a part of its culture. The systems of planning, finance, quality onto, information management etc is important to an organizations performance in its primary activities.
With respect to the Bandhani Industry the standard model cannot be applied due to absence or negligent role of several activities.
Primary activities such as inbound logistics and operations are important activities with respect to this industry. The role of outbound logistics, marketing, sales and services is relatively low as the industry is supply driven and generally dont need much of warehousing facilities.
44
Moreoverthey also do not enter into much complex channels of distribution. Marketing, sales and services efforts are also not much extended by the manufacturers. He plays within his current capacity. The synchronization of procuring the raw materials and delivering the products to different parties at different stages of tie and dye printing process is of utmost importance.
Support activities such as technology development, firm infrastructure and Human Resource Management are negligently present in industry. As the Bandhani is purely a handicraft industry, the technological development and enhancement would not create much impact on the industry. Moreover Bandhanisarees are tied at different places and then collected at dyeing centers or workshops which does not require much space and other facilities. Only the retail outlets need to be well furnished as to display the products attractively are very low. The entire process is carried out through an agent based systems that collects the tied materials from tiers, sends to dyers and finally makes the available to the manufacturers. These shows all the parties are connected through an intermediary and thus the responsibility of manufacturers of Human Resource Management also is very low.
45
Threat of Substitutes
Competitive Rivalry
46
Porters Five Force Framework was originally developed as a way of assessing the attractiveness of different industries. It helps in identifying the sources of competition in an industry. It helps in understanding the connections between the competitive forces and the key drivers in the macro-environment. In context of the study, we have used the framework for our analysis. As the five forces and their impact on the industry as a whole have been explained as follows:
1)
COMPETITIVE RIVALRY:-
Competitive rivals are the organizations with similar products and services aimed at the same customers group. These competitors try to be in balance, but attempts are made to gain dominance over one another. Here also, some large key players have tried to establish their dominance whereas the smaller have accommodated themselves to these situations, by focusing their activities to avoid the attention of the dominant companies.There no high exit barriers to this industry, so there is a persistence of excess capacity and consequently, increased competition.
Organizations try to differentiate the products by blending different colours, attractive designs, patterns and promotional strategies. Industry growth rates also affect the rivalry.
The Bandhani industry is in its growth stage and also so all the organizations try to achieve their own growth through the growth of the whole market.
47
2)
The threat of entry will depend on the extent to which there are barriers to entry. These are factors that need to be overcome by the new entrants if they are to compete successfully. The capital cost of entry will vary according to the scale. But, the bandhani industry is not so capital intensive. The threat of entrants is very high. This gives them advantage in terms of cost, experience, market shares and customer and supplier loyalty. They have access to supply and distribution channels though direct ownership of the retail outlets.
There are less legislative and government actions. The formation of an active association and grant of GI tag will help to protect the competition. Some of the manufactures are using the e-commerce to develop the market are the international level.
3)
THREAT OF SUBSTITUTE:-
Substitution reduces demand for a particular class of products as customers switch to the alternatives even to the alternatives even to the extent that this class of products or services become obsolete. This depends on whether a substitute provides a higher perceived benefit of value.
There is a product for product substitution. The sarees, dresses of Bandhani are highly substituted by other fabrics, designs and types of textiles. More cheaply imitated printed Bandhani is available which affectsthe image of real Bandhani. The fashion world affects a lot to shape the purchasing behavior of customers but overall the bandhani
48
Industry is an evergreen industry and so variations in designs, colours and fabrics have helped to sustain it over the years.
4)
They are a source of constraints for the strategic freedom of an organization and in influencing the margins and hence the financial attractiveness of that industry.
The suppliers are fragmented. The raw material is obtained from different areas such as Bangalore, Surat, Mumbai, Banaras and Kolkata. While dying colours are procured from Mumbai and Ahmedabad.The supplier power is increased because they have a wide range of customers which reduces their dependence on any one customer. The switching cost from one supplier to another is high, perhaps because an organizations processes are dependent on the specialized products of a supplier products or a supplier. The backward integration neither is generally nor preferred by the unit as it is very costly.
5)
The buyers power is likely to influence the profit potential of different parts of an industry. There is a concentration of buyers because the industry comprises a large number of small operators but the volumes purchased by buyers are low. The customers are more likely to shop around to get the best price and therefore squeeze suppliers.
49
There is no threat of suppliers being acquired by the buyer and/or the buyer setting up in competition with the supplier. The vertical integration generally occurs if satisfactory prices or quality from suppliers is not obtained. But here there are a large number of units which can help in switching over to other units.
Buyers have recently started desiring customized products. They want a touching appeal of fashion in their purchases so they desire more efficient blend of colours, designs, patterns.
50
SWOT ANALYSIS
STRENGTHS
Large, Diversified and potential market. Large product variety and range available to cater to the needs of various segments. Cheap labour rates that result to competitive price. Need low capital investment. Flexible production flexibility. Low barriers to new entry. Easy creation and development of production centers. No need for macro macro-investment. Industry provides potential sources of employment. Products are high value added, and handicrafts have various applications. Potential al source of foreign revenue because of higher exports.
51
WEAKNESSES
Lack of co-ordination between bodies and private players. Inadequate information of current market trends. Lack of skilled labour. Lack of infrastructure and communication facilities. Unawareness about international requirements and market. Still confined to rural areas and small cities. Lack of promotion of products.
OPPORTUNITIES
Rising demand for handicraft products in developed countries such as USA, Canada, Britain, France, Germany, Italy etc. Developing fashion industry requires handicrafts products. Development of domestic and international tourism sector. E-commerce and Internet have emerged as promissory
distribution channels to market and sell the craft products. Large, Potential Domestic and International Market. Product development and Diversification to cater global needs. Emerging Retail Industry and malls provide huge opportunities for the Apparel, Handicraft and other segments of the industry.
52
THREATS
Continuous Quality Improvement is need of the hour as there are different demand patterns all over the world. Increased competition due to cheap and imitated products available. To make balance between price with quality and high demand with supply. Competition in domestic market.
53
STAKEHOLDER ANALYSIS
54
The stakeholders are very important elements of any industry. All the stakeholders need to be taken into consideration by an industry for its overall growth and development. Stakeholders should act in
coordination and with cooperation for smooth and efficient functioning of an industry. Satisfied stakeholders would lead to an industry with dedicated and committed links all through the value chain of an industry. These stakeholders, their contribution, their expectations towards an industry should be studied and analyzed thoroughly so as to satisfy all their needs and avail total support and coordination from all the stakeholders.
We have made an attempt to study and analyze all the stakeholders of Bandhani industry. These stakeholders are wholesalers, retailers, tiers, customers, agents, Government, association community, and financial institution. All of them are taken separately and discussed in detail as follows.
TIERS
Tiers are the laborers who undertake the tying part of tie and dye process. This is the most important part of the process. The finer and minute tying would make the product more elegant and beautiful. The labor cost highly depends on such intricate tying. The tying part is basically done by women residing in rural areas and outskirts of the city. Majority of them earn livelihood through this work. Their payment is done on the basis of kadis (1kadi=4 bhindis). The rate of kadi varies as per the wholesalers. However it is around 50 to 200 for 1000 kadis. There is no minimum wages amount for these ladies. It entirely depends on the work that they carry out. It takes minimum 3 days for a sari with 5000 kadis if worked for 8 hours a day. There is an acute demand for tiers who tie minutely.
55
The kachchhi women are experts in minute tying. There is no direct contact of these women with the wholesalers. An agent is an intermediary between both parties. Bandhani provides a huge amount of employment opportunities for women around the Jamnagar district to earn livelihood at their doorstep without any worries and tensions to move to factory and to undertake the work at their convenient time.
DYERS
Next process after tying comes dyeing. Dyeing is done by dyers in the workshops. The dyeing involves processes such as dyeing, Bleaching, Washing and drying. The dyers are from the khatri community who have specialized the skill through the ages. The art are from the ages. The art has been passed on from generation. The process is carried out in limited areas in the outskirts of the city. Jamnagar is renowned for its colours of Bandhani across the globe due o the combination of two skilled dyers and the suitable climate of Jamnagar.
The maroon color dyed in Jamnagar is incomparable. Gharcholas and other tied saris are sent to Jamnagar for dyeing. The dyers receive their payment on the basis of piece dyed. The rates are around 20 to 500 per piece. Like tiers, dyers too generally do not have direct contact with the wholesalers. Agent acts as an intermediary. The dyers can work for any number of wholesalers. Generally there is no contact between the wholesalers and dyers. Similar to tiers, skilled dyers are also in high demand. Maximum 9 colours can be used on a single piece of cloth. The dyers with their knowledge and experience blend wonderful colours and create myriad colourcombinations on sari enriching their look.
56
WHOLESELLERS
Wholesalers are very important stakeholders. They deal with the agents and allocate work to them who then allocates to the tiers and dyers. The wholesalers sell the ready Bandhani pieces to the retailers. Some of them do direct selling to customers also. The wholesalers give the type of designs and color combinations required on the basis of demand in the market. Wholesalers keep nominal profit margin of around 5% only. Wholesalers also trade the Bandhani of other regions such as kachchhi and Rajasthan. Wholesalers help in keeping the momentum in the market. They also provide the retailers with the credit facility usually of 1-2 months.
RETAILERS
The retailers are in direct contact with the customers. They provide a valuable contribution to the industry by selling the Bandhani products. They cater to the needs and specifications of the customers expectations. They display the Bandhani products in such a way that a customer gets attracted to it. They generally keep a profit margin up to 25%. The retailers have specifically attracted the foreigners and non resident Indians across the globe by their marketing skills. Retailers are widespread throughput Jamnagar and they are increasing the internal competition.
AGENTS
The agents are intermediaries who connect the various tiers & dyers with the manufacturers. They communicate the manufacturers expectations about designs, patterns, and colours to the various tiers & dyers who are wide spread. The agent also deals with the wages and other tiers & dyers. They also search out the excellent skilled and talented tiers & dyers.
57
CUSTOMERS
The customers are the stakeholders for whom the entire industry operates. Today, market has become customer driven. It is of utmost importance to study the customers expectations and to satisfy them. The customers are the most important stakeholder whose satisfaction is strived at. The customers are given the benefits and facilities of customization as all the retailers now provide the facility to cater to the specifications of designs and color combination. The customer has been benefited the most as they are provided with wide variety of quality products at reasonable rates due to the internal competition that prevails among the various retailers in the city.
GOVERNMENT
Inspite of Bandhani being important handicrafts of the nation, it has failed to capture the due attention of the government. Government support to the craftsmen, artisans wholesalers and retailers of the Jamnagar city is minimal. Governmental assistance is not seeked for by the people involved. They rather prefer keeping a safe distance from the government regulations and play within their capacity.
ASSOCIATION
Association is formed of the representatives of each stakeholders group to represent and protect the ideas, beliefs and benefits of each of them. Association of Bandhani industry is very inactive in Jamnagar. However, effective steps have been taken recently to put an active association in place which would also aid in GI tag registration. Contribution of each stakeholder is vital for the associations effective functioning. There is lack of awareness of the benefits as well the functioning.
58
COMMUNITY
Community is the indirect beneficiary of the industry. It provides the people with ample employment opportunities in and around the city. City has various retail outlets and showrooms with adorable collection. The traditional art of Jamnagar is retained since ages and still continues to be a major income earning business for the people. The art is renowned worldwide and has given Jamnagar name and fame in the world map.
FINANCIAL INTITUTIONS
People are not well averse with the financial facilities provided by various financial institutions. They generally do not resort to such financial assistance. The role of financial institution is very minimal. People avail the facility from the cooperative banks located in the city for their working capital requirement. They seek facilities such as cash credit and other short term loans.
59
60
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows that out of 20 respondents 80% are sole proprietorship firm, 20% are partnership firm and none are ltd. Firm. From these it can be said that most units in Jamnagar are mostly sole proprietors rather than partnership.
61
Years of business:
Table no. 2
Interpretation:-
The above chart chartshows units numbers of years in business, Out of 20 respondents between tween 30 to 60 years there are 45% units and more mor than 90 years of business is 5% unit. So it can be said that most units are running smoothly and well established their business in manufacturing of Bandhani.
62
Procuring your raw material: material:Option Surat Bhiwandi Mumbai China Others Response 21% 43% 24% 9% 3%
Table no. 3
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the different places from which manufacturer manufac purchase the raw material. Out of 20 respondents 43% of units procure raw material from Bhiwandi, 24% procure from Mumbai, 21% procure from Surat, 9% procure from China and 3% from others. It can be said that most unit procure from Bhiwandi according to their conveniences.
63
Option YES NO
Table no. 4
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the facility of credit purchase on raw material. mat Out of 20 respondents, 65 65% gets the facility cility of credit purchase and 35% 35 does not get the facility. Units get credit for maximum 90 days on the basis of numbers of years in business & trustworthiness. They also get short term loan for purchase of raw material on credit.
64
Contact for procurement of raw material: material:Option Agent Wholeseller Directly from manufacturer Other Party
Table no. 5
Response onse 16 6 12 3
Interpretation:-
The chart shows that mostly units contact Agents for raw material and secondly units contact for raw mat material, erial, directly from manufacturer. manufactu As agent regularly visits the centres so many firms con contact tact Agents for easy getting raw material. Out of 20 respondents 16 units prefer Agents. A 12 units prefer directly from manufacturer.
65
Options Strongly agree Agree Neither Agree nor disagree Strongly disagree Disagree
Table no. 6
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows quality issues regarding procuring of raw material, out of 20 respondents 45% agree that they are satisfy with quality and only 5% disagree regarding dissatisfaction of quality issue. So it can be said that good quality of raw material reaches to the manufacturers.
66
Response 20 13 5 3 -
Interpretation:-
These chart shows that different types of varieties of Bandhani are been manufacture. Mostly the units manufacture the Dress and Sarees of Bandhani material. Even some units manufacture the shawls, Dupattas and Kurtas but the demand of dress and sarees is more so they manufacture this variety more.
67
Table no. 8
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the number of employees in manufacturing units. Out of 20 respondents 55% units have 25 employees and 10% units have more than 100 employees. Employees are kept according to the work, demand and supply of products. Good wages and incentives are paid to them so they are well satisfied in the industry.
68
Response 1 1 4 2 3 5 4
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows number of colours used in single piece of cloth. Out of respondents 13% of units able use 9 different colours in a single piece of cloth. Organization does this to differentiate by blending different colours. 10% of units also use 10 different colours but the cost of that product would increases as much as colour will be used in the product.
69
Options 10 10-50 50 50-100 100 100-150 150 150-200 200 200-250 >300
Table no. 10
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the number of production done within a month. Out of 20 respondents, 30% manufacture between 50 50-100 no. of products. And 10% manufacture between 200- 250 no. of products. As according to the demand cycle production of bandhani takes place.
70
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the type of dyes used in manufacturing bandhani. Out of 20 respondents 65% use Chemical dyes because easy to use, cheap, quick and good mixing. 20% use Natural dye which is made from plants and 15% use both type of dyes.
71
The technological aid help in making process faster: faster:Options Strongly agree Agree Neither Agree nor disagree Strongly disagree Disagree
Table no. 12
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows that out of 20 respondents 55% units agree for technological aid for making process of d drying rying faster. 20% units disagree because all the work is done manually so no need of any technological chnological development would help them.
72
The he time duration taken by the ti tiers ers for a single piece of cloth:cloth:
Options 0-2 2 days 2-4 4 days 4-6 6 days >7 days
Table no. 13
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the time duration taken by the tiers, time taken is according to the design, pattern etc. So out of 20 respondents, 40% units says that their ti tiers ers take more than 7 days and 5% unit says that their tiers takes 2 days as dependent on size of design duration of time is taken.
73
Satisfaction with firm inventories holding: holding:Options Strongly agree Agree Neither Agree nor disagree Strongly disagree Disagree
Table no. 14
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the units satisfaction level with holding of inventories. Out of 20 respondents, 50% % agree that they are able to maintain inventories. 35 35% % says that they strongly agree of holding ho their inventories properly.
74
Satisfaction with distributors: distributors:Options Strongly agree Agree Neither Agree nor disagree Strongly disagree Disagree
Table no. 15
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the satisfaction level with h distributor. The 70% respondents agree that they are satisfied w with ith the distributors. And only 10% disagree with the satisfaction of distributors. So proper and satisfied response they get from distributors distributors.
75
Type e of channel of distribution use the most: most:Options Direct Selling Wholeseller Agent
Table no. 16
Interpretation:-
The above chart is type of channel of distribution use by the manufacturer. Out of 20 respondents, 40% use agents, 35% use wholesalers & 25% use direct selling. More percent of agents are because they are expert communicators.
76
Table no. 17
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the communication with people. 40% respondents disagree disagreethose they not able to communicate as due to low level of education of tiers and dyers. 30% respondents espondents strongly disagree. 20% respondents neither agree nor disagree.
77
Options Yes No
Table no. 18
Awareness
70% 100% 30% 50% 0% Yes No No Yes
Interpretation:The above represent the awareness about GI tag. Out of 20 respondents 70% of respondents are not aware about the GI tag and only 30% of respondents are aware about GI tag. GI tag means a quality assurance if a certain region so more than 70% are not aware about this.
78
Competitors Pricing Strategy Quantity Color Pattern Design Uniqueness Innovation Others
Basis
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 7 6 5 4 4 0 6 7 7
Interpretation:The above chart represents the base for pricing of products. Some units decided on bases of competitors, some units decided on base of uniqueness, colour, design, pattern. Thus in this way price for the products is dependent on these attributes.
79
3 9 11
Facilities
Price Discounts 13% Credit Facility 48% Timely Delivery 39%
Interpretation:-
The above chart representsthe units avail types of facilities from distributors. The 48% respondents get the facility of credit, 39% of respondents get timely delivery facility and 13% gets price discounts facility. In this way various facility are availed to the units.
80
Local ocal customers are being aware about product: Options Local ads Word of mouth POP Hoarding
Table no. 21
Response 8 6 7 7
Awareness
8 8 6 4 2 0 6 7 7
Local ads
Word of mouth
POP
Hoarding
Interpretation:The above chart represents that local customers are aware about the product. 25% get aware through hoarding, 29% through local ads, and 21% through word of mouth. In this way customers get aware through various ways about the Bandhani products.
81
Options Yes No
Response 16 4
Table no. 22
Website
No, 4
Yes, 16
Interpretation:The above chart representsthe respondents having website. Out of 20 respondents 16 are having website and 4 does not have website. But the respondents having websites does not much contain information regarding bandhani.
82
Options Strongly Agree Agree Neither Agree nor Disagree Strongly Disagree Disagree
Table no. 23
Response 3 11 0 5 2
Employees
12 10 8 6 4 2 0 Strongly Agree Employees 3 Agree 11 Neither Agree Strongly Disagree nor Disagree Disagree 0 5 2
Interpretation: Interpretation:The above chart represents employees feel facilitated to perform their best. Out of respondents, 11 agree that if employees are given facilities and good wages they would ready to do their work at the best. Some respondents disagree because of lack of communication.
83
Employees face any hazards working with chemical &dyes continually all through the day:
Options Yes No
Table no. 24
Hazards
15%
Yes No
85%
Interpretation:The above chart represents any hazards while working with chemicals and dyes. Out of respondents 15% says yes but does not results into much harm. 85% of respondents they believe that a very minimum amount of chemical is used and thus does not result into much harm.
84
Table no. 25
ESI 12%
Facilities
Insurance 23%
Medical 65%
Interpretation:The above chart represents facilities are availed to employees. Out of respondents, 65% of units give e medical facilities, 23% of units give Insurance facilities. And 12% gives ESI scheme facility to their employees to boost their morale.
85
There here is a need of association o ofBandhani Bandhani industry in Jamnagar: Options Yes No Can't say
Table no. 26
Need of association
Can't say 15%
Interpretation:-
The above charts represent the need of association. Out of 20 respondents 50% says yes to have an active association. Only few large manufacturers have realized the importance and taken initiative towards it formation. 35% say no because of lack of support and 15% cant say about to ha have an active association or not
86
Thereis is a need to brand in Bandhani: Options Yes No Can't say Response 55% 45% 0
Table no. 27
0%
Need
Yes 55%
No 45%
Interpretation:-
The above charts represent the need of brand in bandhani. Out of 20 respondents, 55% of respondents say yes they would like to have a specific brand for bandhani like other garment have brand. But 45% ignore to say yes, they dont like have a brand because it itis totally a handicraft and no comparision can be made.
87
Options Yes No
Expand
No 35%
Yes 65%
Interpretation:The above chart represents to expand the outlet, out of 20 respondents 65% of respondents like to expand their units with providing best services and making those loyal customers. 35% say no that they dont like to expand.
88
Table no. 29
Competition
Interpretation:The above charts represent the type of competition faced by the bandhani units. Out of 20 respondents, 55% of units face internal competition that is the players within the region. 45% of units face external competiti tion on that is the players outside the region.
89
Bandhani Industry stands Vis-a Vis compare to other Garment industries: Options Low Medium High
Table no. 30
Comparision
70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0% Series1 Low 5% Medium 65% High 30%
Interpretation:-
The above chart represents bandhani industry stands as compare with other garment industry. 5% of respondents say that it stands at low level, 65 % of respondents says that bandhani industry stands at medium level and 30% says that it stands at high level.
90
Customers ustomers complain about: Options Quality Color Design Pattern Style Price Others
Table no. 31
Response 4 5 3 1 3 9 4
Complain
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9
5 4 3 1 3
Quality
Color
Design
Pattern
Style
Price
Interpretation:-
The above chart represent the customer complains. 36% respo respondents says that customer complain about the price, 20% about colour, 12% about design, 12% style. As because it is totally a manual work according to design, style, price is been decidedso so the lack of knowledge to customers may leads to complains
91
Bandhani i sale meet eet the customers expectations: Options Yes No Can't Say Response 65% 0 35%
Table no. 32
Customer's Expectation
Yes 65% No 0%
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the customers expectations. Out of 20 respondents 65% are able to meet customer expectation because of wide variety and wide range to cater their needs. But it is not easy to complete understand therefore 35% of respondents cant say about a meeting customer expectation.
92
Options Yes No
Customization
No 20%
Yes 80%
Interpretation:-
The above chart shows the customization of products. Out of 20 respondents 80% says yes that they are able to customize the products according to the wants, preferences of customers. And 20 % says no that they are not able to customize the products.
93
Buying Behaviour
Oct-Dec 12% Jan-March 11%
Interpretation:The above chart shows the buying behaviour of consumers. 50% of consumers come for buying in the month of April- June. As the months of summer demand is more for bandhani products. 12% comes for buying in the month of Oct Oct- Dec.
94
HYPOTHESIS
95
FRIEDMAN TEST
The Friedman test developed by M. Friedman in 1937 is a non parametric alternative to the randomized block design. The randomized block design has the same assumptions as other ANOVA procedures: observation is drawn from normally distributed populations. When researcher has ranked data, the Friedman test provides underlies the Friedman test.
These assumptions underlie the Friedman test. 1. The blocks are independent. 2. Observations within each block can be ranked. 3. No interaction is present between blocks can be ranked.
The First step in computing a Friedman test is to convert all raw data to ranks. However, the data in a Friedman test are ranked within each block from smallest (1) to largest (c). Each block contains c ranks, where c is the number of treatment levels. Using these ranks, the Friedman test will test to determine whether it is likely that different treatment levels came from same population.
k = number of columns (often called "treatments") n = number of rows (often called "blocks") Rj = sum of the ranks in column j.
96
FRIEDMAN TESTING
Comparison of years of establishment of business and level of satisfaction in procurement of raw material. HO= Raw material supplier population is equal. H1= At least one supplier population yields larger value than at least one other suppliers Population .
Neither Years of Business Strongly agree Agree agree nor disagree Strongly disagree Disagree
0 3 2 0
3 3 1 1
4 0 1 0
Table no. 35
0 0 1 0
0 1 0 0
Calculation:Strongly Years of Business 1-30 30-60 60-90 >90 Total Rj2 2 3.5 5 2.5 13 169 4 3.5 3 5 15.5 240.25 agree Agree Neither agree nor disagree 5 1.5 3 2.5 12 144 2 1.5 3 2.5 9 81 2 5 1 2.5 1.5 110.25 Strongly disagree Disagree
97
Interpretation:-
Xr2 = 2.45 Degree of freedom - (n-1) = 5-1 = 4 X2 TAB = 9.4877 Xr2 <X2 TAB, thus calculated value is less than tabulated value So Ho is accepted. The above table shows that Raw material supplier population is equal. The comparison of years of establishment of business and satisfaction with procurement of raw material is interpreted. There is a direct relationship between suppliers and years of business. So it can be said that the units are satisfied with their suppliers and no problem with suppliers as years of business increases.
98
HO= Employee population and production are equal H1= At least one employee population yields larger value than at least one other employee Population. No. of employees
Less than 10 Less than 25 Less than 50 More than 100
10-50 2 0 0 0
50-100 2 2 4 0
100-150 0 1 4 0
150-200 0 0 3 0
200-250 0 0 1 1
>300 0 0 0 0
Table no. 36
Calculation:-
No. of employees
Less than 10 Less than 25 Less than 50 More than 100 Total Rj2
200-250 >300 2.5 2.5 3 6 14 196 2.5 2.5 1.5 3 9.5 90.25
99
Interpretation:-
Xr2 = 2.975 Degree of freedom - (n-1) = 6-1 = 5 X2 TAB = 11.7075 Xr2 <X2 TAB, thus calculated value is less than tabulated value So Ho is accepted. The above table shows that Employee population and production are equal. There is direct relationship between employees and production. The number of production increases will also make number of population of employees increases to carry out the production work
100
Comparison of number of colors used and the number of production. HO= No. of colors and production units are equal. H1= At least one color yields larger value than at least one other color.
No. of colors 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
10-50 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0
50-100 0 0 0 0 0 3 0 1 0 3
100-150 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 2 2
Table no. 38
150-200 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1
200-250 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0
>300 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0
10-50 3 3 3 6 3 4 3 3 2 2 32 1024
50-100 3 3 3 3 3 6 3 6 2 6 38 1444
>300 3 3 3 3 3 4 3 3 2 2 31 961
101
Interpretation:-
Xr2 = 12.5857 Degree of freedom - (n-1) = 6-1 = 5 X2 TAB = 11.7075 Xr2 >X2 TAB, thus calculated value is more than tabulated value So Ho is rejected. The above table shows that at least one color yields larger value than at least one other color. Color is used by different production is different. Different color and different numbers of color are used in production of Bandhani.
102
Comparison of year of business & determination of price. HO= Year of business and of price are equal. H1= At least one price yields larger value than at least one other price.
Years
Compe titors
Pricing Strategy
Quality
Color
Pattern
Design
Unique ness
Innova tions
othe r
6 1 0 0
2 1 0 0
2 1 1 0
2 2 0 0
0 4 1 1
3 3 0 0
2 2 2 0
1 1 0 1
0 0 0 0
Table no. 40
Years
Quality
Color
Pattern
Design
others
9 3 3.5 4 24 576
8 6 3.5 4 21.5
5.5 6 9 4 24.5
103
Interpretation:-
Xr2 = 9.958 Degree of freedom - (n-1) = 9-1 = 8 X2 TAB = 15.5073 Xr2 <X2 TAB, thus calculated value is less than tabulated value. So Ho is accepted. The above table shows Year of business and price is equal. The price does not increase as the no. of years of business increases. Price is related to other factors. So there is impossible to reject the null hypothesis.
104
HO= No. of production and buying habit of bandhani are equal. H1= At least one buying habits yields larger value than at least one other buying habits. NO. of production 10-20 50-100 100-150 150-200 200-250 >300
Jan-march 0 0 1 2 0 0
April-June 0 4 4 2 1 0
Table no. 42
July-sep 0 4 2 1 0 0
Oct-Dec 2 1 0 1 1 0
Calculation:NO. of production 10-20 50-100 100-150 150-200 200-250 >300 Total Rj2
105
Interpretation:-
Xr2 = 2.35 Degree of freedom - (n-1) = 4-1 = 3 X2 TAB = 7.8147 Xr2 <X2 TAB, thus calculated value is less than tabulated value. So Ho is accepted. The above table shows No. of production and buying habit of bandhani are equal. It can be said that production increases according to frequency of buying habit of people. So there is a direct relationship between demand of production and buying habits.
106
Comparison of
attributes
of bandhani
and ways
of
differentiation of product. HO= Attributes of bandhani and differentiation of product are equal . H1= At least one way of differentiation yields larger value than at least one otherway of Differentiation.
Rank 1 2 3 4 5
Design 6 3 2 7 1
Price 3 4 9 2 1
Quality 3 4 6 5 2
Color 0 6 3 9 1
Innovation 1 3 6 5 4
Unique ness 6 5 4 2 2
Variety 1 3 2 10 2
Table no. 44
Rank Design 1
Price
Quality
Color
Innovation
Variety
1 7 3 6 2 19 361
2 3 4 5 Total Rj2
107
Interpretation:-
Xr2 = 1.39 Degree of freedom - (n-1) = 7-1 = 6. X2 TAB = 12.5916 Xr2<X2 TAB, thus calculated value is less than tabulated value So Ho is accepted. The above table shows attributes of bandhani and differentiation of product are equal. There is direct relationship between attributes and product differentiation.
108
statisticalhypothesis test in which the sampling distribution of the test statistic is a chi-square distribution when the null hypothesis is true, or any in which this is asymptotically true, meaning that the sampling distribution (if the null hypothesis is true) can be made to approximate a chi-square distribution as closely as desired by making the sample size large enough.
2 =(Oi - Ei)2
Ei
Adapted by Anne F. Maben from "Statistics for the Social Sciences" by Vicki Sharp, The chi-square (I) test is used to determine whether there is a significant difference between the expectedfrequencies and the observed frequencies in one or more categories. Do the number of individuals or objects thatfall in each category differ significantly from the number expect?
If the calculated value of chi- square is less than the table value at a certain level of significance for a given degrees of freedom, we conclude that null hypothesis stands which means that the two attributes are independent and not associated.
If the calculated value of chi-square is greater than its table value, our inference then would be that null hypothesis does not hold good which means the two attributes are associated.
109
Attributes Quality Colour Design Pattern Style Price Others Total Mean
Oi
Ei
(Oi Ei )
(Oi-Ei) EI
(t)
4 5 3 1 3 9 4 29 4.14
Interpretation:The above table shows the chi- square test of attributes toward customers complains. The table value is for 5 degree of freedom @5% level of significance is 12.5916 and the calculated value is10.24223comparing the calculated value & tabulated value of chi square we find that calculated value is less than the tabulated value so null hypothesis is accepted. The result thus supports the hypothesis and it can be concluded that attributes are dependent on customers complain.
110
FINDINGS
Analyzing various units on the basis of various parameters, several findings have been derived as follows:
The general pattern of ownership followed is sole proprietorship firms which are family based.
The units that have been in business for less than 30 years are competing successfully with the units having been in business for more than 30years.
The channel of distribution widely used by the manufactures is a combination of wholesaling and agents.
The incremental level of investment done by majority of the units ranges within 10-20 lacs.
The manufactures are able to procure the raw materials on credit from different suppliers located across the country.
The wholesalers give the facility of credit sales of 1-2 months to the retailers whereas the retail units do not prefer to give credit facility to their customers.
The profit margin of the manufactures wholesalers is around is around 5% while the profit margin of the retailers is around 1525%
Majority of the units have been taking only the cash credit facility to the banks. They do not prefer to take long term loans but rather like to reinvest the profits back into the business.
The internal competition in the city itself is very high while they are not much bothers about competing with other players outside the city.
111
The retailers apart from attending the customers satisfactorily and providing somewhat customized products are not able to differentiate themselves from the general market scenario.
The manufacturers as well as retailers do not seek any technological support for making the process more effective.
Majority of the units do not prefer to seek the governmental aid in any form.
The units are not ready to cooperate in forming an active association in fear of losing their profit margins. They are not ready to devote their time towards the success of the industry as a whole.
The general level of awareness relating to devote their time towards the success of the industry as a whole.
Due to the conservativeness and managerial constraints, they are not willing to expand their business and their future plans are very hazy.
Major raw material procurement is from Bhiwandi and Surat. Manufacturing of dress &Sarees are mostly preferred by most of the manufacturers.
Depending upon the level of production the employees are needed in the bandhani manufacturing i.e. the number of employees are not fixed in this industry if fluctuates as per the need of the production.
GI tag is used so that geography wise branding can be done of the bandhani.
Local advertisements and word of mouth is used as a tool for promotion by the manufacturers of the bandhani industry.
112
Most of the manufacturing has own websites available for providing information.
Most employees are satisfied by their wages and their work. Though mostly chemical dyes are used in this industry it is not hazardous for the health of the employees.
Mostly consumer buy bandhani in the month of April June mostly as demand of this fabric is more in summer season.
113
SUGGESTION
There should be an active association of the manufacturers so that all parties would contribute towards the efficiency of the whole industry. Various trade shows and Fashion shows should be organized to build bandhani as a brand. The manufacturers should try to expand their scale of production, i.e.; manufacturers have to leave their mentality of being satisfied in the current scale of production. The image of bandhani should to be changed; it should be also promoted as fashion garment like other garments. Bandhani is lacking in creating its category like any other textile. Thus, emphasis should be given in creating a separate category. All the manufacturers should try to develop their websites with differentinformations and ideas. A separate website should be created for bandhani i.e. bandhani specific.Bandhani should be promoted as a style statement. Bandhani should be promoted in the DAILY SOAPS and in movies too, to increase its popularity. Bandhani is mostly famous amongst Guajarati, so promotional efforts should try to attract other cultural people also. The manufacturer should provide more wages and facilities to extend the efforts of employees. The manufacturer should increase their capacity and should expand their outlets. They should create a reputed brand of bandhani industry. They should satisfy all the partied involved in manufacturing bandhani
114
LIMITATION OF STUDY
The time constraint is the major limitation of this research study. As no work has been done earlier in this regard so scarcity of data is also there. Only one city i.e. Jamnagar city is considered for undertaking for research. The sample taken for the study is also small i.e. only 20 so an accurate research cannot be done. Conclusion is derived by oneself. The bias on the part of the respondents affects the findings of the study.
115
CONCLUSION
From this research study it can be concluded that different roles played by different stakeholders towards the efficiency of the whole industry. It can be said that the Bandhani industry does not have sufficient modern management techniques to achieve high levels of efficiency. The is an important requirement of using modern techniques. Moreover they can use promotional strategy at international level to attract NRI. Analyzing the industry on different parameters helped us to try and achieve our research objective.
Through analysis it comes to know which attributes at affecting and influencing the bandhani industry. Studying the whole industry, we come to know that Jamnagar is famous for producing the highest quality of Bandhani fabrics, and the Sarees made with this fabric are par excellence in design. People all over the world love using Bandhani fabric of especially of Jamnagar. Bandhani are easily available in all the bazaars and shopping centres of Jamnagar. There are chances of conversion of unorganized market into organized market if the industry starts using modern principles in Bandhani industry.We have provided several suggestions hope that our suggestion would help in giving a new dimension and competitive edge not only to the units at operational, administrative and managerial levels but also to the industry as a whole.
116
APPENDICES
Questionnaire
Questionnaire on Comprehensive case study ofBandhani Industry in Jamnagar N.B.: 1) Please tick () the boxes for your response and leave the others blank. 2) Please rank in the order of preference wherever mentioned. 3) The information collected in the survey will be kept confidential and used only for the research purpose.
Raw material
(1) What is the form of ownership of your firm? ( ) Sole proprietorship ( ) Partnership ( ) Ltd. Co.
(2)
Since how many years you are in the business? ( ) 1 to 30 ( ) 30 to 60 ( ) 60 to 90 ( ) more than 90 From where do you procure your raw material? ( ) Surat ( ) Bhiwandi ( ) Mumbai ( ) China ( ) Others _____________________
(3)
(4)
Do you get the facility of credit purchase on raw material? ( ) Yes ( ) No If yes which Cash credit _____________________________
(5)
Whom do you mostly contact for procurement of raw material? ( ) Agent ( ) Whole seller ( ) other party ( ) Directly from manufactures
(6) Are you satisfy with quality issue in procuring raw material? ( ) Strongly agree ( ) Disagree ( ) Agree ( ) Neither agree nor disagree ( ) Strongly disagree
117
MANUFACTURING (1) What type of variety do you manufacture? ( ) Dress ( ) sarees ( ) Dupattas&Kurtas( ) Shawls ( ) Others____________________________ What is the no. of employees do you have in manufacturing units? ( ) 10 or less ( ) 25 or less ( ) 50or less ( ) more than 100
(2)
(3)
(4)
What is the maximum no. of production of bandhani you manufacture within a month?
150-200
200-250 >300
(5) Mostly which dye you prefer while manufacturing bandhani? ( ) Natural ( ) Chemical ( ) Both
(6) Do you agree that technological aid help you in making process faster? ( ) Strongly agree ( ) Agree ( ) Neither agree nor disagree ( ) Disagree ( ) Strongly disagree
(7) What is the time duration taken by the tiers for a single piece of cloth? ( ) 0-2days ( ) 2-4days ( ) 4-6days ( ) >7days
118
Marketing (1) Are you satisfied with your firm inventories holding? ( ) Strongly agree ( ) Agree ( ) Neither agree nor disagree ( ) strongly disagree ( ) Disagree Are you satisfied with your Distributors? ( ) Strongly agree ( ) Agree ( ) Neither agree nor disagree ( ) strongly disagree ( ) Disagree
(2)
(3)
What type of channel of distribution you use the most? ( ) Direct selling ( ) Wholesaler ( ) Agent
(4) Are you satisfied in communicating with the people of varied level of Mentality& at different stages of process? ( ) Strongly agree ( ) Agree ( ) Neither agree nor disagree
( ) strongly disagree ( ) Disagree (5) Are you aware about the GI tag? ( ) Yes ( ) No
(6)
On what base do you price your product? ( ) Competitors ( ) Pricing strategy ( ) Color ( ) Pattern ( ) Uniqueness ( ) Innovation
(7)
What type of facilities avail from your distributors? ( ) Price discounts ( ) Timely delivery ( ) Credit facility ( ) Others_______________
(8)
How local customers are being aware about your product? ( ) Local ads ( ) Word of mouth ( ) Pop ( ) Hoarding ( ) Others________________________
(9)
What attributes do you focus in bandhani when you choose to differentiate your product?
119
HR (1) Are your employees feeling facilitated to perform their best? ( ) Strongly agree ( ) Agree ( )Neither agree disagree( ) Strongly disagree ( ) Disagree
nor
(2)
Does your employee face any hazards working with chemical & dyes continually all through the day? ( ) Yes ( ) No
(3)
Do you provide and additional facilities to your employees? ( ) Insurance ( ) Medical ( ) ESI
(1)
Do you think there is a need of association of Bandhani industry in Jamnagar? ( ) Yes ( ) No ( ) cant say
(2)
Do you think there is a need of brand in Bandhani? ( ) Yes ( ) No ( ) cant say Do you wish to expand your outlet? ( ) Yes ( ) No
(3)
120
(4)
(5)
Where did Bandhani Industry stands vis- a-viscompare to other Garment industries?
Low
Medium
High
CUSTOMERS
(1)
( ) Design ( ) Price
(2)
Do the Bandhani you usually sale meet the customers expectation? ( ) Yes ( ) No ( ) cant say
(3)
(4)
How frequently consumers come for buying Bandhani? ( ) Jan-march ( ) July-September ( ) April-June ( ) Oct-Dec
121
LIST OF TABLES
Table no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 35 46 Particulars Form of ownership Years of Business Procurement of raw material Facility of credit purchase Contact for procurement Quality issue Type of variety No. of employees No. of colours No. of production Technological aid Time duration Holding inventories Channel of distribution GI tag Base for price Type of facilities Awareness to local customers Attributes to differentiate Own websites Employee facility Employee face any hazards Additional facilities Need of association Need of brand Wish to expand outlet Type of competition Comparision with other garments Customers complain Customers expectation Customize the product Frequency of buying Friedman testing Chi-square testing Pg. no. 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 97 110
122
LIST OF CHARTS
Table no. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 37. Particulars Different places of bandhani Objectives Types of data Value chain analysis Porter five force model Swot analysis Stakeholder analysis Form of ownership Years of Business Procurement of raw material Facility of credit purchase Contact for procurement Quality issue Type of variety No. of employees No. of colours No. of production Technological aid Time duration Holding inventories Channel of distribution GI tag Base for price Type of facilities Awareness to local customers Attributes to differentiate Own websites Employee facility Employee face any hazards Additional facilities Need of association Need of brand Wish to expand outlet Type of competition Comparision with other garments Customers complain Customers expectation Customize the product Frequency of buying
123
Pg. no. 4 26 36 41 46 51 54 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92
BIBLIOGRAPHY
WEBSITES
www.indiaprofile.com BOOKS
Ken Kevin
Making, 4th edition Wiley India Pvt. Ltd. Lane Keller Strategic brand Management 3rd edition,
Pearson education.
Integrated
Advertising,
Promotion,
and
Marketing
124
Kotler
MAGAZINES
125