CircassianWorld.

com

Circassian Cuisine

Edited by

Amjad Jaimoukha

Sanjalay Press
Amman-Jordan
2004

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 Introduction

H OSPITALITY has always been one of the distinguishing traits of the

Caucasian highlanders. If not through good will, then the binding
prescriptions of the Xabze ensured the best deal for a guest or visitor to the
North Caucasus. The Circassians were known to go to extremes to ensure
that a guest or wayfarer was properly regaled, and diligently ensure that he
was put up in comfort. According to the saying, 'Hesch'er zheschiysch
yisme, binim ya schisch mex'wzh,' 'If the guest stays for three nights, he
becomes part of the family.'
In the olden days, it was the custom to host one's guests for seven days
and seven nights, a number that held special religious significance. Only
after expiry of this period was the purpose of the visit inquired about. The
episode, "The Story of How the Narts Ravished Lady Satanay," in which
Wezirmes received his guests for a week, affords an example of good
etiquette.
In the 1840s, Shora Nogmov indicated in his book History of the Adigey
People, the special status that hospitality enjoyed among the Adiga.¹ Despite
the wretchedness of those times, engendered by political upheavals and war,
this custom had experienced no degradation in the least. All Circassians,
rich and poor, were equal in holding this institution in the greatest esteem.
The old saying, still current today, "The host is his guest's servant" (bisimir
hesch'em yi 'wexwthebzasch'esch) is indicative of the reverence in which
visitors were held. The host, qweynaq or konak, was not only responsible for
the culinary needs of his guest, also called konak, but was also his protector
and guide. Any injury or offense inflicted on the guest was considered as
directed towards the host or one of his family members - to be avenged in
the extreme according to the strict laws of blood-revenge. In addition, the
host made sure that his guest reached his next destination safe and sound
until he was delivered to the next konak. Only then was the host relieved of
his onerous duties.
Undoubtedly, the difficult terrain and the hostile environment had
something to do with the sanctity of this institution. Entrusting oneself to the
care of a konak was one's surest method of getting about in Circassia. This
strict adherence to the code of hospitality is reminiscent of the heroic times
of ancient Greece, when the bonds of hospitality were considered sacred.²
Although the onus of responsibility lay on the host, the guest was also
expected to follow the dictates of good taste. Human nature being what it is,
this unquestioning generosity was open to abuse by unscrupulous parasites.
In line with the saying, 'Ziy bisim zix'wezhim chits'ix'w xwawich'', 'They
slaughter a mere male-kid for him who changes his original host,' a guest
was bound to knock at the door of the person who received him on his first
visit. Seeking another host was considered a flagrant contravention of
customary law. The new host was bound to receive the errant visitor, but he
indicated his displeasure by slaughtering a mere male-kid for him. Although
this meat is in no way inferior to other kinds of flesh, it is the symbolism
that is important in this regard. There was a redemption price for such a
'misdemeanor' decided by a special village council.
It was incumbent upon the host to seat his visitor in the honorary seat in
the guesthouse (zchant'e), which was located facing the entrance door. The
other partakers were seated according to seniority of age. When the feast

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was ready, the eldest person was seated first then the younger person to his
right, and so on. Toasts were uttered, first by the eldest, and the toast cup
was passed round the table. A young man schhegherit was assigned to wait
on the table, being usually the youngest of the attendants. It was the custom
to present him with a goblet and to pronounce a toast in his honour.
No one was allowed to leave the table before the eldest person
partaking. It had always been a strict custom to serve the guest with various
tasty dishes, which were prepared from the finest victuals in the house.
Dishes were served in succession: when one is finished the next is
presented, and so on until broth was offered. It has always been a strict
custom that the guest be served with various tasty dishes, which were
prepared from the best victuals in the house. One anecdote recounted by L.
Y. Lyule, who visited the Circassians in 1827, tells how his Nartkhuaj host
treated him to 120 dishes!³
Unfortunately, many Circassian dishes have got out of use and
forgotten, not least due to the decimation resulting from the War and
subsequent expulsion of the majority of Circassians from their homeland.
The way the table is laid and food served is described here and as the
work is developed. Many pleasant smelling kinds of sauces were utilized.
The basic ingredients are ground hot red pepper and grated (or pounded)
garlic. These are very nourishing and may also be served separately.
Many condiments are used. Vegetables, onion, garlic, hot and sweet red
peppers, black pepper, savory, parsley, coriander, thyme, and dill. These
herbs are stored for winter. They are first dried in the shade, then they are
ground and sifted (using a coarse-meshed sieve). Thyme is used widely in
the preparation of meat and vegetable dishes.
One peculiarity of Circassian cuisine is that soup, or broth, is served
after the main dish(es), excepting husked millet soup (hentx'wps, see 6.37),
which is offered first.

Hospitality and the Circassian code of chivalry

Hospitality was one prong of the trinity of Circassian chivalry, at the base of
which was an elaborate code of honour, which was not very unlike those of
the ancient Greeks, nor the Mediaeval European knights. It was the principal
component of the Circassian Etiquette. This strict law controlled the life of
the feudal knights and demarcated their rights and duties. The other two
tenets of this law were respect for women and elders and blood-revenge.
As the case in Europe, the code of chivalry has left a deep impression on
modern Circassian society inside and outside the Caucasus. Two canons,
namely respect for the fair sex and elders and hospitality, have more or less
been preserved.
1. Fresh Meat Dishes
(Lisch'em qixasch'ich' shxinighwexer)

First, the way the slaughtered sheep is separated is shown. When the
carcass is opened up, the entrails (liver, kidneys, lungs, heart, intestine,
paunch), are immediately removed in a careful manner and laid out
separately. These are washed thoroughly in cold water, then scalded with
boiling water and completely freed of all mucous membranes using a
scraping-knife, until they turn whitish. The rib cage is removed whole. The
shoulder-blades and legs (blathe), and the loin are cut off. The spine (txi) is
carefully chopped up into small pieces. The head and legs are fried after

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being ritually cleaned. They are thoroughly cleaned first with hot water,
then with cold, until the water running off becomes clean.
Many nourishing and tasty dishes are made from the entrails, like sheep
sausage (zherume), liver sausage (themsch'ighwnibe), liver with sheep's tail
fat, thick pancake with liver and eggs, liver in fat, fried entrails, etc. It is the
custom to present those who have slaughtered and separated the sheep with
the fried pieces of entrails as soon as these are ready. The vertebrae,
sausages, and the head with legs, are cooked by boiling. However, they
must be cooked in separate vessels, never together. Depending on the
number of people, the shoulder blades with the legs, which are chopped into
chunks, are placed with the pieces of spine in the cauldron.

1. Boiled Mutton (Melil gheva)

Boiled mutton (melil gheva) with

ships and p'aste

It is best to use lamb for this dish. The fresh meat is cut to pieces and
placed in a cauldron of salt water just before it comes to the boil. It is then
boiled, with the frothy head being removed as it accumulates. Two chopped
onions (it is better to use a bundle of fresh green onions, if available), a red
pepper and a bunch of coriander is added to give spice to the meat. Just
before the meat is ready, the greens are removed from the broth using a
skimmer. The meat is served first with gravy (ships) and crushed-millet
dumplings (p'aste).

Ships is prepared by adding pounded garlic to the broth, to sour milk, or

to soured cream with sour milk. Red or black pepper may be added to taste.
The ships must be made hot and salty because the p'aste has no salt added to
it. Next, the broth is served. It has become the custom to take the broth with
p'aste and not with bread. It may be also possible to add lepsteipx'e to the
broth as seasoning (see section 6.11 for method of preparation of
lepsteipx'e). These are small pieces of short pastry made from wheat dough
and boiled in fat. They are either added to the broth or served separately.

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 Lepsteipx'e (small pieces of short
pastry boiled in fat)

2. Lamb Boiled in Cream (Shateps-ch'e gheva schinel)

Ingredients: 1 kg fresh and tender lamb meat cut into 20-30 g pieces, 1-1.5
kg fresh cream, 2-3 onions, salt and red pepper to taste.

The fresh cream is poured into a cauldron or a deep frying-pan and

placed on the fire. As it comes to the boil, small onion straws are added. The
mixture is stirred over the fire for 2-3 minutes. The meat pieces are then
placed in a cooking vessel and boiled for 20-30 minutes on a gentle fire. Salt
and red pepper are added to taste. The meat is kept over the fire until it is
completely cooked (during this time, the water in the cream boils away
slowly and the cream melts). The meat is served hot with crushed-millet
dumplings (p'aste). The dish may be garnished with coriander, onions, and
dill.

3. Circassian Goulash (Libzche)

Ingredients: for every 500-600 g of fresh meat, 2-3 onions, 500-600 g

peeled potatoes, 1-2 spoons of wheat flour, salt and red pepper to taste.

This may be prepared with or without potatoes. The meat is cut into
small pieces and placed in a brazier or a casserole. Salt and red pepper are
added, according to taste. The meat is either fried in its own fat, in butter, or
in melted butter, until it is almost ready. Onion is added and fried. Sliced
potatoes are then added. The whole mixture is inundated with water and
covered. It is stewed until it is ready. The dish is served hot. The dish may
be prepared without potatoes. In the meantime, wheat flour is added to the
meat and onions and the whole mixture is stirred. After 2-3 minutes, broth
or soured cream (or both) is poured in, and the mixture is stirred and boiled
for 3-5 minutes. The broth need not be set. The dish is served hot.

4. Meat Goulash (Lits'ik'wlibzche)

Ingredients: for every kg of fresh beef or lamb, 2.5-3 glasses of either

soured cream, cream, or broth, 1 table-spoon of wheat flour, 150-200 g
onions, salt and red pepper to taste.

There are three methods of preparing this dish.

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 The boiled meat is cut into thin slices and then chopped. Onion
straws are fried in a brazier in either butter or melted butter. Ground red
pepper is added to taste. When the onions turn golden, the prepared meat
is added, stirred and fried for 10-15 minutes. Soured cream, or cream, is
poured and salt is added to taste. Broth may be used instead of soured
cream. However, in this case a spoonful of wheat flour is added. The
mixture is fried on a gentle fire, while being stirred. It is then inundated
with broth. The gravy must acquire the consistency of thick soured
cream. Before serving, ground red pepper or pounded garlic is added.
The goulash is eaten with either crushed-millet dumplings (p'aste),
unleavened maize-bread (chirzhin, e mezhaje), or bread (sch'aq'we).

The fresh meat is chopped into very small pieces. Salt is added to
taste. The meat is fried in fat until it nears readiness. Onion straws are
added and fried with the meat. Ground red pepper is added to taste.
Afterwards, either cream or broth is poured in.
The third method only differs in the way the gravy (sauce) is
prepared. Sweet red peppers are pounded well and steeped in either
cream or broth. When the meat is ready, the red pepper sauce is poured
onto it.

5. Shepherd's Lamb (Melix'we li ghezchech'e)

(This dish is presently out of use)

The lamb is skinned very carefully starting from the hind shanks
towards the head. Then it is turned over, with the wool on top. The meat and
entrails are cut into pieces and salted. Chopped onions and red pepper are
added in ample quantities. The meat and pieces of entrails are placed inside
the skin. The holes in the skin are sealed firmly with a metal (iron) wire. A
leather bag (fenzhey) is formed.

The meat is cooked in the following manner. A small hole is dug up in

the ground. Small stones are piled to form a wall some distance off the wall
of the hole. Dry pieces of wood are placed between the two walls and set on
fire. More wood is added until the stones become burning hot. Then the
leather bag (which contains the meat) is placed in the "stone-bin." The hole
is covered with sheet iron. A fierce fire obtains. The meat is cooked for 4-5
hours, after which it is served hot.

6. Sheep Sausage (Zherume)

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 Sheep sausages (Zherume)

The entrails are cleaned thoroughly in cold water and then dipped in
fiercely boiling water for a few minutes. The thin mucous layers are scraped
off until the entrails turn white. They are cut into 20x15 cm pieces. The
intestines between the internal fat and small intestine are prepared and cut
into pieces slightly longer than those of the entrails. The entrails are placed
on the intestine pieces with the clean smooth surface on top. Sliced onions
are added on top (30-40 g for each sausage). Salt, ground black pepper and
savory are added to taste. The whole lot is rolled and tied with white thread
or thin intestine. The sausages are cooked in salt water like meat. When it is
ready, it is served with garlic sauce (ships) and crushed-millet dumplings
(p'aste).

There are other methods of preparing zherume. They may be smoked

and dried under the sun or in the wind. In this case, they keep for a long
time. They may also be boiled for their soup, or fried with or without
potatoes. Boiled or fried zherume are served hot with p'aste.

7. Thin Mutton Sausage (Nek'wlh)

Ingredients: 1 kg fresh meat, 300 g of fat, 2-3 onions, garlic bulb, and
intestine.

At present, very few households prepare this food. Nevertheless, the

method of preparation has not been forgotten.

Despite the name, It has become the custom to use beef for the sausage.
Mutton is used rarely. The meat and fat are chopped up finely (the ratio of
meat to fat is 3:1). They are mixed thoroughly with chopped onions, salt,
pounded garlic and ground red pepper. The mixture is stuffed into the
cleaned intestine pieces, and then the ends are sewn. The sausage is placed
in boiling water for 10-15 minutes and then slightly smoke-cured. Then it is
placed in a clean cloth, wrapped, and stored in a cool dry place. According
to old custom, sausage is a winter food. It is either boiled or fried.

8. Liver Sausage (Themsch'ighwnibe)

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 Liver sausage
(Themsch'ighwnibe)

Either beef or sheep liver may be used, the latter being preferred. The
liver is pounded by a belagh (shovel-like wooden implement used for
stirring when preparing some national dishes), or a mallet until it is as soft
and pliant as dough. The liver must not be minced, as in this case it would
be very tough and lose its special quality. Small rough fibers and thin skin
are removed. Inner fat and onions are chopped finely and added to the liver.
Pounded garlic, ground red pepper and salt are added to taste. All
ingredients are mixed thoroughly. The mixture is used as stuffing for the
meticulously cleaned large intestine. One end is sewn or fastened with a
pointed matchstick, to prevent the stuffing from falling off. The intestine is
stuffed so that its girth does not exceed double its original size. The stuffing
must be uniform throughout the length of the intestine.

The sausage prepared in this way is placed in salt boiling water and
cooked for 1-1.5 hours. As it boils, it is pierced by a sharp object (tip of a
matchstick or prong of fork) in two to three places to prevent the steam from
bursting the sausage. The dish is sliced into pieces and served hot with
garlic sauce and p'aste.

9. Liver with Sheep's Tail Fat (Themsch'ighwre ch'apere zesch'ighwu)

The liver (themsch'ighw) and the sheep's tail fat (ch'ape) are boiled in
salt water. Fresh green onions, a bundle of coriander, and a small red pepper
are added. When it becomes ready, the liver and fat are removed. They are
slightly cooled and then cut into thin pieces. The liver pieces should be 1.5-
2 cm. thick, the fat no more than one.

The dish is served with the fat pieces lying on those of the liver. Garlic
gravy (ships) and crushed-millet dumplings (p'aste) are served as side
dishes. This dish may be either be had hot or cold.

10. Thick Pancake with Liver and Eggs (Themschighwre jedich'ere

zexelhu)

Ingredients; for every kg of liver, 2-3 eggs, 1 cup soured cream, 2-3 onion
bulbs, salt and red pepper to taste.

The liver is pounded with a belagh or a mallet, until the enveloping thin
skin comes off and the small ligaments are removed. The liver mass must
become homogeneous and free of any lumps. Whisked eggs, fried onions,
and salt and ground hot red pepper to taste are added together and mixed.
These are introduced by a spoon into heated-up melted fat in a brazier and
fried, while being turned over. When ready, the flat cakes are placed in
another deep brazier or a casserole. Small onion straws are fried in the first
brazier in the remaining fat. A little red pepper is added. The flat cakes are
replaced in the vessel with the onions and cooked on a gentle fire for 3-4

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minutes. A little soured cream is poured in and the vessel is kept on fire for
a few minutes more.

11. Liver in Fat (Themschighwr schem k'wets'ilhu)

Fresh beef or sheep's liver may be used. The liver is sliced into pieces 3-
5 cm in length, and 1.5-2 cm thick. Each piece is rubbed with salt and mixed
with ground red pepper. The caul (omentum, epiploon, internal fat, fatty
membrane enwrapping the intestines), is laid out on the table and cut into
pieces that would amply wrap up the liver chunks. They are placed in a
heated brazier on a gentle fire, and fried on a moderate fire, being turned
over every now and then, so that both sides are cooked evenly. The dish is
served hot. Boiled potatoes may be had with it.

This dish may also be cooked using slightly boiled liver. The method
differs from the one described above by the way liver is prepared. Ground
red pepper is rubbed on the chunks of liver, which are then dipped in a thick
salt solution (shighwships), and immediately enwrapped by the fat. The
sauce is made using the water in which the liver was boiled.

12. Sheep's Tail Fat Cracklings (Ch'ape libzchaxwe)

The cut fat is placed in a cauldron or an aluminium casserole. Salt is

added and then some water is poured in. The vessel is placed over a fire and
is stirred every now and then. The fat is allowed to melt slowly until the
pieces turn red. The vessel is taken off the fire, and the cracklings are
removed using a skimmer and placed in a deep plate or a large bowl. The
melted fat is poured in an earthenware pot or other crockery. The cracklings
are served with crushed-millet dumplings (p'aste), warm unleavened maize-
bread (mezhaje), or boiled potatoes. The melted fat is nourishing. It is most
suitable to fry meat, potatoes, or dough in. Because of its nice smell, it is
used in preparation of Circassian sweet (heliwe).

13. Fried Sheep's Tail Fat with Honey (Ch'ape ghezchare fore)

The fat is sliced into 30-40 g pieces and boiled in a cauldron or

aluminium casserole until it is reduced to about half its original size. The
melted fat is poured out. The remaining fat is fried to redness and then
removed from the fire. The fat and honey are mixed in equal amounts. The
mixture is placed in an earthenware pot or other tight crockery. This food is
prepared for winter. It may be had with p'aste, miramisa, hot unleavened
maize-bread (mezhaje). Sour cream may be drunk with it.

14. Sheep's Tail Fat with Honey (Ch'ape daghefo)

This is a variety of the preceding dish. Hot melted fat is poured into an
earthenware pot or a casserole with a white inside, and then cooled to 30 °C.
An equal amount of honey is added, and the whole thing is stirred and
mixed thoroughly. It is placed in a cool place to allow it to congeal. This

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food is prepared for winter. It is served with p'aste, miramisa, hot
unleavened maize-bread (mezhaje).

2. Dried and Smoked Meat Dishes

(Li gheghwamre gheghwpts'amre qixasch'ich' shxinighwexer)

Mutton and beef may be either jerked (dry-cured) or smoked. First, the
carcass is split by making incisions with a knife in such a way as to be able
to corn (salt) the meat sufficiently in many parts. The meat is salted to taste
(but enough must be used to prevent it from spoiling). It is left to stand for
3-4 hours to allow the salt to permeate properly. Then the meat is rolled,
laid on a large plate, and placed in a cool place overnight to be corned to the
full. The next morning, it is placed in the sun (in a windy place), and dried
(it is recommended that the meat be enwrapped in gauze to keep off the
flies).
The meat would become tastier and smell nicer, if before drying it is
smoked on a gentle fire for a few hours. Smoke from the stalks of half-dried
(stinging-)nettles bestows on the meat a very pleasant smell. The meat cured
in this manner will keep for a very long time in a fresh place. In the olden
days, the Circassians dry-cured meat to be consumed in autumn, winter and
spring.

1. Meat Roasted on Skewers, Shashlik (Li dzasech'e ghezchawe)

Meat roasted on skewers

(Li dzasech'e ghezchawe)

The meat is cut into 50-75 g pieces, which are pierced onto skewers.
These are turned slowly over embers of gentle heat until they are ready. If
the meat is fatty, it is placed on p'aste dumplings. The meat is served with
miramisa, hot unleavened maize-bread (mezhaje), or boiled potatoes. Garlic
sauce (ships) may be poured over the roasted meat.

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2. Fried Meat (Li teibech'e ghezchawe)

Fried meat with p'aste

(Li teibech'e ghezchawe)

The meat is cut to pieces and placed in a hot frying-pan or a brazier. The
pan is covered. The meat pieces are turned so that both sides are roasted on
a gentle fire. When it is ready, it is served hot with p'aste or boiled potatoes.

3. Fried Meat and Potatoes (Lire ch'ert'ofre zesch'elhu ghezchawe)

Fatty pieces of meat are fried in a pan, as in the preceding entry. When it
is ready, it is placed in a vessel. The hot melted fat left in the pan is used to
fry large slices of potato until they turn red, being turned frequently. Small
amounts of salt and red pepper are added. The pieces of meat are placed on
top of the cooked potatoes. The pan is covered, removed from the fire and
allowed to stand for a while. The dish is served with either p'aste,
unleavened maize-bread (mezhaje), or bread.

4. Fried Meat with Onions (Lim bzchin sch'elhu)

The meat is cut into small pieces and placed in a hot frying-pan or a
brazier. If fatty meat is used, there is no need to add any fat for frying. If the
meat is lean, some melted butter or sheep's tail fat (ch'ape daghe) may be
used. When the meat is ready, large chunks of sliced onions are added with
some red pepper. The meat and onions are fried on a gentle fire, being
turned every so often. The dish is served hot with either p'aste, miramisa,
bread, or unleavened maize-bread (mezhaje).

5. Meat and Beans Broth (Lire jeshre xelhu leps)

Carefully sorted out and washed haricot beans are placed in a vessel.
Hot water is poured in. The vessel is covered and kept to stand overnight,
during which the beans puff up. In the morning, the water is replaced by
cold water and the vessel is placed on the fire. After one hour, the boiling
water is poured out, replaced by cold. As the water comes again to the boil,
the pieces of meat are introduced and the whole thing is boiled until it is

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ready. Fresh green onions and chopped coriander are added. If these are not
available, fried onions and red pepper may be used.

6. Meat and Potato Broth (Lire ch'ert'ofre xelhu leps)

The meat is cut into pieces and placed in a vessel of hot water just as it
comes to the boil. A red pepper and a peeled onion cut in half are added.
When the meat is cooked, large slices of potato are added and the whole
thing is boiled to readiness. The dish is served hot with either bread or
unleavened maize-bread (mezhaje).

7. Smoked Meat Goulash (Lighwpts'a libzche)

This is prepared as Circassian (fresh meat) goulash.

8. Meat and Noodles (Li xelhu x'inch'el)

Ingredients: 1 kg of dried or smoked meat, dough kneaded with an egg and

1.5 glasses of water, 6-8 cloves of garlic for the garlic sauce, salt to taste.

Meat of medium fat content is cut into pieces. These are placed in a
vessel of hot salt water, and are boiled slowly. The noodle dough is prepared
in the meantime. The dough is kneaded with water and eggs. The dough,
which should not be very hard, is rolled thinly and is cut into 2x2 cm
squares. The cooked meat is removed and placed in a white casserole or a
large drinking vessel near a fire. The noodles are added to the boiling broth.
When they are ready, they come up to the surface, from which they are
removed by a skimmer and placed on a plate. The cooked meat is placed on
top of the noodles, and garlic sauce (bzchinixwps) is poured all over the
plate. Garlic sauce is prepared in the following way. The garlic is pounded
with salt in a mortar. An appropriate amount of broth is added and the
mixture is strained.

9. Dried Sheep's Side (Dzazhe gheghwa)

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 Dried sheep's side
(Dzazhe gheghwa)

The side is salted. Cloves of garlic are placed in small holes, which are
pierced in the meat at intervals. The side is left to stand for a few hours. It is
then dried in the sun or in the hearth. The dried side can keep for months.
When required, the desired amount is cut, fried in fat and served hot.

3. Poultry and Egg Dishes

(Jedqazimre jedich'emre qixasch'ich' shxinighwexer)

1. Chicken in Soured Cream Sauce, Jadlibja (Jedlibzche)

Ingredients: for each 600-700 g young chicken (chick), 300 g soured cream,
3/4 cups water, 1 spoon wheat flour, 2-3 onion bulbs (not too large), red
pepper, salt, savory (or thyme), to taste.

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 Chicken in soured cream sauce
(Jedlibzche)

The chick is cleaned and washed thoroughly, and then dismembered to

pieces (but not chopped up). Chopped onion is placed in either a deep
brazier or a cauldron and fried gently in butter or melted butter. Ground red
pepper is added to taste. The chicken pieces are placed in the brazier (or
cauldron), salt is added, and the contents stirred well. The vessel is covered
and placed on a gentle fire. The chicken is cooked to readiness, while being
turned over to prevent the food from burning onto the vessel. Soured cream
is then poured in and the contents are cooked for 7-10 minutes with the
cover removed.
In the meantime, a spoonful of wheat flour is put in water, together with
savory (or thyme), and salt (if there is not enough of it in the sauce). The
mixture is then added to the chicken sauce, which is cooked for a few
minutes more, and then removed from the fire. If rich sauce (ships) is to be
made, there is no need to prepare the flour water (hezhigheps). In this case,
before soured cream is poured in, wheat flour is added and fried a little,
while being stirred. Then the soured cream is added. The sauce is cooked for
a little bit more and then removed from the fire. The dish is served hot with
either pasta, unleavened maize bread (mezhaje), or miramisa. Pounded
garlic is also served either separately or added to the ships.
If a bigger chicken is used, the method differs somewhat. The chicken is
placed in a casserole and a little water is poured in. Salt is added to taste.
The vessel is covered tightly and placed to boil on a gentle fire until the
chicken is ready. In the meantime, the chicken fat melts and is completely
cooked down in the water. Onion is finely chopped and added to the
chicken, together with ground red pepper. The whole lot are fried, while
being stirred, until the onions turn slightly red. Ships is then prepared in the
three mentioned methods.

2. Stuffed Chicken Baked in Dough (Thevim k'wets'ighezchihawe jed)

Ingredients: 1 young chicken (chick), 1 cup rice, 1/2 cup raisins, 5-6
walnuts.

A young chicken must be used for this dish (an old one would be too
hard to cook properly). The poult is washed and cleaned thoroughly, but is
not cut to pieces. Salt is daubed over the whole chicken, which is allowed to
stand for a while. Rice is sorted and washed. It is then inundated with warm
salt water and left to stand for 1-1.5 hours. Walnuts are pounded. Raisins are

14
thoroughly washed and put aside to dry for a while. Then they are fried for
1-2 minutes in melted butter, and removed. The rice, walnuts and raisins are
kneaded together and then stuffed inside the chicken. Very thick dough is
kneaded in water and then rolled out to a thickness of 1-1.5 cm. The chicken
is wrapped in the dough and placed in the oven to bake until it is cooked.
The baked dough is removed before the chicken is served hot. Turkey,
goose and duck may also be prepared in this manner.

3. Broasted Chicken (Jedla)

Broasted chicken (Jedla)

A chicken is cleaned and washed thoroughly, and then dismembered

into pieces. These are added into boiling salted water and cooked. When
they are ready, they are removed by a skimmer, and allowed to dry for a
while. In the meantime, khudir, which is made from wheat flour with eggs,
is prepared. Melted butter is put in a cauldron or a deep brazier, and heated
to seething. The chicken pieces are introduced, one by one. They are fried,
while being turned over, till they become thoroughly heated. They are then
removed and placed on a plate. Each piece is dipped in the khudir, and then
in the heated butter, and so on, till the wheaten crust attains a thickness of 1-
1.5 cm (the pieces are dipped 2-4 times in the khudir). The pieces are placed
on a flat plate and served. The dish may be garnished with various
vegetables and greens.

Method of preparing khudir: a little salt and a spoonful of soured cream are
added to 4-5 eggs, which are then thoroughly whisked. Wheat flour is then
poured in such that the khudir acquires the same consistency as thick soured
cream.

4. Fried Chicken with Onion (Jed ghezcha bzchin sch'elhu)

Ingredients: 500-600 g onions for each chicken, 150-200 g butter.

The chicken is dismembered, and the pieces are washed thoroughly and
placed in a deep brazier. Salt and ground red pepper are added. The cooking
vessel is covered and placed on a gentle fire till the chicken is cooked (all

15
the water must evaporate). If the chicken is not fatty, either butter or melted
butter is added. Chopped onions are introduced, stirred and fried with the
chicken. The onions and chicken must be fried on both sides evenly. This
requires that they must be stirred periodically. The dish is served hot.

5. Boiled Chicken with Garlic (Jed gheva bzchinixw yi ghwsew)

Boiled Chicken with Garlic

(Jed gheva bzchinixw yi ghwsew)

The chicken is either cooked as it is or dismembered at the joints. It is

placed in boiling salt water and cooked. A peeled onion and a small red
pepper are added to the soup. When it is ready, the chicken is taken out.
Each piece is dipped in garlic water. The sauce is made as follows. 5-6
cloves of garlic are pounded with half a spoon of salt. 1.5 cups of soup are
added, and the whole lot are mixed well and strained. The sauce is now
ready. The chicken pieces are placed in a vessel, which is covered and left
to stand for a short time. It is possible to make garlic sauce separately.
Pounded garlic, salt, red pepper and either soured cream, sour milk, or soup,
are mixed together. The dish is served with p'aste. The soup is served
afterwards. The soup is also used to make millet soup (hentx'wps) (see
6.37).

6. Chicken and Noodles (Jedir x'inch'elim xelhu)

Dough Ingredients: 2 eggs, 1.5-2 cups water, flour, salt.

It is best to use a fatty chicken for this dish. The dismembered pieces of
chicken are cooked in water and then removed and put aside. Dough is
kneaded to firmness and then cut into small thin pieces of 2x2 cm. These are
placed in the boiling soup and cooked. When they come up to the surface (a
sign of readiness), they are removed with a skimmer and placed on a plate.
The pieces of chicken are put on top of them. Garlic sauce is prepared by
mixing 1.5 cups of chicken soup taken from the cooking vessel and garlic
(5-6 cloves) pounded with salt (to taste). The sauce is poured onto the
chicken and noodles. The dish is served hot.

7. Chicken with New Potatoes (Jedisch'ere ch'ert'ofisch'ere zesch'elhu)

Ingredients: 1 chick, 8-10 new potatoes (not very large), 250-300 soured
cream, 30 g butter.

16
 The dismembered pieces of a young chicken (chick) are placed in a deep
brazier. New potatoes are washed, peeled and sliced into round pieces or
lobules. They are placed on top of the chicken. Salt, ground red pepper,
savory, small pieces of chopped onion, butter, and 3/4 cups of water are
added. The cooking vessel is covered and placed on a gentle fire until the
chicken is cooked. Soured cream is poured in and the contents are boiled for
a while, then removed from the fire. Chopped fresh green onions and
coriander are added. The dish is served hot.

8. Chicken in Pepper Sauce (Jedlibzche shibzhiy ships sch'etu)

The chicken is prepared in the same method as jadlibja (see 3.1). Onions
and ground hot red pepper are added. The sauce is prepared in the following
way. Husked millet seeds (30-50 g) are carefully washed and cleaned and
placed in warm water for 15-20 minutes. The water is poured out, and the
millet is pounded thoroughly with sweet red pepper (150-200 g) in a mortar.
Water or chicken soup (200-250 g) is poured in, mixed with millet and
strained. This is poured onto the chicken. The cooking vessel is placed on a
gentle fire for 7-10 minutes, while being stirred continuously. The dish is
served hot with pasta or bread.

9. Chicken Fried in a Brazier (Jed teibech'e ghezchawe)

The split chicken is washed and cleaned and either kept whole or cut
into two. Salt and red pepper are added to taste. The chicken is daubed with
soured cream. The chicken is then laid on a flat plate and left to stand for 1-
2 hours, with a heavy object placed on top. Then the chicken is placed in a
brazier with melted fat, and fried on a gentle fire, being turned over to allow
both sides to cook evenly. The dish may be served with a piquant sauce,
mainly garlic sauce.

10. Chicken in Walnut Sauce (Jed de ships sch'etu)

(This dish has fallen into disuse)

The chicken is cleaned and dismembered. The pieces are placed in

slightly-salted water just before it comes to the boil, cooked and then
removed. As soon as the soup trickles down, the chicken pieces are daubed
with garlic pounded with salt (the garlic should be twice the amount of salt).

The sauce is prepared in the following way. Wheat flour is fried in a

little butter (until goldish in colour), and then poured onto a plate. Well-
pounded walnuts are added and mixed with the fried flour. Chicken soup to
the required amount is poured into a casserole or a deep brazier and placed
on the fire. When it comes to the boil, the intensity of the fire is reduced.
The walnut and flour mixture is added. The cooking vessel is kept over the
fire until the soup mix, which is stirred well all the time, acquires the
consistency of soured cream. Salt is added to taste.

17
 Onions are fried in butter separately. When they are ready, they are
wrung out and removed from the frying-pan. Ground hot red pepper is
added to the remaining fat. The fat is poured over the sauce before it is
served. The chicken is either served in the sauce or separately. Pasta or
bread are served with this dish.

11. Boiled Turkey (Gwegwsh gheva)

Boiled turkey
(Gwegwsh gheva)

Ingredients: 4-5 kg turkey, 1-1.5 kg onion (considering the amount of ships

to be made), 2 garlic bulbs, 1/2 liter sour milk, or kefir for every 1/2
pounded garlic heads. Salt and red pepper to taste.

The turkey is cleaned and then carefully dismembered (but not chopped
up) to pieces. These are washed and placed in hot salted water, before it
reaches the boil. The turkey is cooked to readiness, the froth being removed
as it accumulates. A peeled onion bulb and half a red pepper may be added.
When the pieces are ready, they are placed on a plate and daubed with a
solution of garlic and salt.

The solution is prepared in the following way. Garlic is pounded with

salt (1 portion salt to 4-5 of garlic). The garlic is added to 2-3 cups of soup,
which is stirred until the salt dissolves, and then strained. Each turkey piece
is immersed in the solution for a short time (1-2 minutes), and then
removed. When the solution flows down, it is placed in deep vessel
(preferably an enamelled casserole).

When all the pieces have been treated thus, the casserole is placed in a
cool place and left to stand for 1/2 hour. Then a large quantity of onion is
chopped up, and placed in a deep brazier or in a casserole (of 1-1.5 liter
capacity). The soup fat (from the boiled turkey) is collected and poured over
the onion. When the fat floods the onion to about two heights, the brazier is
placed on a gentle fire, and the onion is fried to readiness. Ground red
pepper is added to taste.

Liver is cooked by boiling, removed, and then pounded thoroughly in a

mortar and added to the onion. More soup fat is obtained and poured onto
the onion and liver. The brazier is replaced on a gentle fire and cooked for a
few minutes, while being stirred. It is taken off the fire, and pounded garlic
and salt are added to taste. The sauce is now ready. The turkey may be

18
served either hot or cold, but the sauce must always be served hot. This dish
must be had with pasta. Soup is served last. Lepsteipx'e may also be served
(see section 6.11 for method of preparation of lepsteipx'e). Rice or husked
millet may be added to the soup. Some prefer to pour in soured cream or
milk.

Note: The turkey is first boiled whole, and then dismembered to pieces.
Sauce may also be prepared by adding pounded garlic to soured cream or
sour milk. Salt is added to taste. If liver is not available, the following
alternative may be used instead. An ample quantity of husked millet (20-30
g) is washed and placed in warm water for 30-40 minutes. The water is then
poured out and the millet pounded in a mortar. The millet is then added to
the fried onion (in place of the liver). Then the sauce is prepared in the same
way as liver sauce, which must be made to the same consistency as soured
cream.

12. Stuffed Turkey (Gwegwsh ghezcha)

This is prepared in the same manner as Stuffed chicken baked in dough

(see 3.2).

13. Boiled Goose (Duck) (Qaz, e babisch, gheva)

Ingredients: 1 goose (duck), 1 egg, dough kneaded with one egg and 1.5-2
cups water (1 for duck), garlic and salt to taste.

The goose, or duck, is cleaned and washed thoroughly. It may either be

cooked whole or cut into pieces. It is placed in salt water near boiling point
and cooked. When ready, it is removed and left to dry for a while. It is then
daubed with garlic pounded with salt (1 portion of salt for every 2-3 of
garlic). 3-4 spoons of soup fat are poured off for every person. Salt and
pounded garlic are added to the soup fat, which is then strained. It is served
as sauce with the cooked goose. Pickle is served with the meat as a piquant
relish. Bread, or pasta, is also served. Soup flavoured with noodles is served
afterwards.

Dismembered pieces of poultry are cleaned and washed and cooked as

usual. When ready, they are removed and placed in a deep vessel, which is
then covered. The prepared dough is rolled out thin and cut into 2x2 cm
pieces. These are placed in the soup and cooked till they are ready. They are
scooped out as they come up to the surface and placed on a shallow plate.
Garlic sauce is poured on. The dish is served hot.

14. Goose (Duck) with Noodles (Qaz, e babisch, x'inch'elim xelhu)

Ingredients: 1 goose (duck), dough kneaded with 1-2 eggs and 1.5-2 cups
water (1 for duck), garlic and salt to taste.

Dismembered pieces of poultry are cleaned and washed and cooked to

readiness. When ready, they are removed and placed in a deep vessel, which

19
is then covered. The prepared dough is rolled out thin and cut into 2x2 cm
pieces. These are placed in the boiling soup and cooked till they are ready.
They are scooped out as they come up to the surface and placed on a flat
plate. The pieces of poultry are arranged on top, then garlic sauce is poured
on. The dish is served hot.

15. Baked Goose (Duck) Stuffed with Rice (Qaz, e babisch, ghezcha
prunzh k'wets'ilhu)

Ingredients: 1 goose (duck), 2-2.5 cups rice (1-1.5 for duck), salt and red
pepper to taste.

The goose is cleaned and washed thoroughly, but is not cut to pieces.
The whole poult is rubbed with a mixture of salt and ground red pepper. The
goose is left to stand for about one hour in order to allow the mixture to be
properly absorbed. Rice is sorted and cleaned thoroughly. Then it is poured
into warm salt water (1 spoon salt in 1 liter water). The rice is left to stand
for one hour, after which the water is poured out. The rice is stuffed inside
the goose, which is sewn up and placed in the oven. The dripping fat is
periodically poured onto the goose as it is cooked. It is also possible to cook
the goose by first wrapping it up in dough (see 3.2, 3.12).

16. Pastry Straws, twiglets (Jedich'eripsch)

Ingredients: 10 egg yolks, 120 g soured cream, 4-5 spoons sugar, knife-
tipful of salt, flour.

The yolks are whisked well with the sugar. The flour is mixed with the
beaten yolks and soured cream, and kneaded well. Salt is added in the
process. The dough is cut into 40-50 g pieces, which are rolled into thin
round cakes. These are cut in two. The tips of these semi-circles are stuck
together by nipping. They are placed in a cauldron of seething fat
(sunflower oil, sheep's tail fat, or melted butter may be used), and fried.

17. Eggs Fried in Soured Cream (Jedich'eneqiyzh)

Ingredients: one egg for every 50-75 g soured cream, 400 g soured cream, 1
spoon maize flour or cereal, salt to taste.

The soured cream is poured into a deep brazier. Maize flour or cereal is
added with some salt. The cream is stirred well. The brazier is placed on a
gentle fire, and the contents are cooked for 3-5 minutes, while being stirred
all the time. The desired number of eggs are broken into the cream with the
yolks intact. The vessel is covered, and the eggs are cooked till the white
turns white, as it were. The dish is served hot.

18. Sweet Omelette (Jedich'ezchapx'e 'ef')

20
Ingredients: 10 eggs, 3/4 cup sugar, 1 spoon flour, 2-3 spoons melted butter,
a little salt.

This is one of the most popular dishes. Sugar to taste is poured on a few
eggs, which are then vigorously whisked until thick froth is formed. Butter
is heated in a brazier, in which the eggs are poured. The cooking vessel is
covered and placed in the oven to bake. It may also be placed on a stove and
cooked on a gentle fire. Usually, Circassians have this dish at supper. It is
served hot. This dish may also be prepared without sugar, instead of which
salt is added to taste.

19. Jadichevinsh (Jedich'evinsh, Schheqwtih)

Ingredients: 2-3 eggs, 1/2 cup milk, 1-2 spoons flour.

The eggs are whisked until thick froth is formed, milk is poured in, and
salt is added to taste. The mixture is placed in a heated brazier and fried in
butter.

Jadichevinsh also refers to an omelette made from eggs, soured cream

and cottage cheese.

4. Fish Dishes
(Bdzezchey shxinighwexer)

21
 Despite the abundance of fresh-water fish in the North Caucasus,
Circassian cuisine is not well-known for its fish dishes. Here, two dishes are
described.

1. Fried Fish (Bdzezchey ghezcha)

The fish is scaled, cleaned and salted. It is dragged through wheat flour.
Melted butter or sunflower oil is heated in a frying-pan or a brazier. The fish
is fried, being turned over, until both sides turn red. The dish is served hot.

2. Fried Fish in Soured Cream (Bdzezchey shatech'e ghezchawe)

The fried fish is placed in another brazier, and soured cream is poured in
with some salt. The brazier is placed on a gentle fire for a few minutes and
then removed. It is also possible to stew the fish straight with the soured
cream without frying it first. The fish is served hot.

5. Dairy Product Dishes

1. Cheese (Q'wey)

Two kinds of home cheese are prepared. Rennet juice is used to sour the
milk more quickly. The method of preparation of rennet juice is now
described. The rennet bag is cut out of the slaughtered cattle. It is cleaned
thoroughly in running water. A handful of salt is then introduced into the

22
bag. Also, some salt is daubed on the outside. The bag is then dried in the
sun or in the hearth. When it is dried, it is placed in a vessel of whey, either
wholly or partially. It is kept until it is well tempered. It is best to use a
ceramic vessel with not too wide a neck.

Red cheese and kurt

(q'wey plhizchre qwrtre)

First Method: Fresh milk is heated to about 40 degrees. Rennet juice

is added (1 tablespoon for every liter of milk). It is stirred, covered and
put for a few minutes in a warm place. When whey begins to form and
the curdle starts to separate, it is carefully gathered by hand into one
lump and softly rung out so as not to squash the mass. When it firms up,
it is places on a small board, rung out again until all the whey is
removed. The cheese is either formed into a square or ball, as desired.
Salt is poured on, and it is allowed to stand for 8-10 hours. It is then cut
into 300-350 g pieces. These are placed in a large earthenware pot or in
a vat. Whey is boiled, cooled down, salted and then poured into the pot
or vat. The top of the cheese is covered with clean linen. A heavy object
is placed on top. Sometimes, peeled garlic slices are added to the whey.
Cheese is usually prepared in summer or in the autumn. It becomes
ready in winter, by which time it acquires a pleasant piquancy.

Second Method: Whole milk is brought near the boil. Rennet juice is
slowly introduced by a ladle from the edges. Then the juice is added
every now and then until such a time when a white head stops surfacing.
The thickened white mass is removed with a skimmer, placed in a sieve
and left to dry. It is then placed in a deep vessel. Whey is heated up,
salted, and then poured into the vessel. This is covered up and allowed
to stand for a whole day. The cheese is removed and dried in the hearth.
To make cottage cheese, sour milk or very sour whey is poured into
seething milk. Vinegar may also be used. The resulting thick white mass
is removed with a skimmer.

Associated sayings:
Dzighwiybghw zedei'eme, q'wey ch'adaschhe trach: (If nine mice
pull together, they can uncover the cheese vat) Many hands make light
work.

23
 Dzighwiysche zedeizheme, q'wey ch'adaschhe trach: Many hands
make light work.
Q'weymre mivemre xwedew zeschhsch: (As like as cheese and
stones) As like as chalk and cheese.

2. Soured Cream Sauce with Cheese (Q'weyzchapx'e)

Ingredients: 1 kg soured cream, 150-200 g cheese, an egg, 2 tablespoons

maize flour or cereal, salt to taste.

Fresh new cheese is cut into small pieces or crumbled with the hands.
These are placed in a cauldron or a deep brazier. A whisked egg is added
and mixed by stirring. Soured cream is poured in and the vessel is placed on
a gentle fire. The mixture is continuously stirred to prevent the cheese from
burning onto the cooking vessel. This goes on until the cheese dissolves and
only thin threads remain (with no sediment). At this stage, the soured cream
becomes thin. To make it thicker, maize flour or cereal is strewn in. The
mixture is kept on a gentle fire for 5-6 minutes, stirred continuously, and
then removed from the fire. Salt is only added as it nears readiness. The
cooking vessel is covered and is left standing for a few minutes. If a large
quantity of butter is formed, it is removed as it forms. This butter has a nice
smell and tastes great. The dish is served hot with p'aste.

3. Hominy or Polenta (Zhemikwe)

Ingredients: 1 kg soured cream, 150-200 g cheese, an egg, maize flour or

cereal, salt to taste.

This is made like the preceding dish, but a greater amount of maize flour
or cereal is used, so that the thickness of the mixture becomes like that of
miramisa. This dish may be served hot or cold. When hot, it is placed in a
plate using a trowel, and served with sour cream. If it is served cold, it is
placed on a plate, then cut to pieces as it cools down and sets. It is also
served with sour milk.

4. Fried Cheese (Q'wey ghezcha)

This food is not as frequently prepared as before. There are several
methods of making this dish:

Onions are chopped to small pieces. These are fried in butter or

melted butter in a cooking vessel (e.g.: brazier). Red pepper is strewn
onto the onions to taste. Fresh cheese is crumbled into small lumps by
hand and then placed in the brazier. The mixture is cooked for 5-10
minutes, while being stirred continuously. The dish is served hot.

Fresh cheese is cut into thin slices, which are placed in a brazier and
fried on both sides in butter or melted butter, while being turned over.
The white of egg is whisked well and poured into the vessel. The
mixture is cooked, while being turned over. It is served hot with soured
cream or sour milk.

24
 Fresh cheese is crumbled by hand into small lumps, which are fried
in butter, or melted butter, for a few minutes. The white of egg is
whisked well and is added to the cheese as it is being cooked. When the
cheese is cooked, soured cream is poured in. The dish is served hot.

5. Sour Milk (Shxw)

Milk is boiled in a cauldron and then allowed to cool to 40-45 °C. One
spoon of sour milk is added for every two liters of milk, and the mixture is
carefully stirred. The vessel is wrapped up in order to keep it warm and then
allowed to stand in a warmish place for 1-2 hours. As soon as the milk
ferments, it is placed in a fresh place to cool down, but not to get very cold.
It is best had with unleavened maize bread (chirzhin), miramisa, or warm
lakum.

Associated sayings:
Shxwm xwedew qeghepts'en: 1. To turn somebody round one's
finger; 2. To catch with chaff.

6. Baked Milk (She sch'eghepschtha)

Milk is boiled in the evening (it is best to use buffalo milk). After it
comes to the boil, it is kept on a gentle fire for 30-40 minutes. The milk is
left to stand in a cool place. By the next morning, a thick layer of milk skin
is formed. This is very nice to have with unleavened maize bread (chirzhin,
or mezhaje), or with warm bread. It is served with Kalmyk tea.

Baked milk is prepared for children in the following way. The thick
layer is wound round special small sticks with forked tips and dried a little.
The wound baked milk is then carefully cut off and served.

7. Shkuz (Shxwz)
(This kind of milk preserve has got completely out of use. It used to be
prepared for winter)

Fresh sour milk is poured out into a clean sieve lined with linen, or with
several layers of gauze. It is left to stand for a whole day, allowing for the
whey to be completely strained. The sour milk curds are placed in a ceramic
vessel with a perforated bottom, and a little salt is strewn in. Fresh soured
cream is poured onto the curd layer, another layer of sour milk curds is
placed on top, and so on until the vessel is full. The ratio of curds to soured
cream is 3:1. Melted internal fat or beeswax is poured over, and the vessel is
put in a cool place. The shkuz is cut with a knife. It is had with lakum, or
warm unleavened bread (chirzhin). It may also be spread on bread, or added
to hantkhups (millet soup) (see 6.37), for flavour. Shkuz is a high-calorie
food, and is rich in essential proteins.

8. Bajina (Bejine)

25
 Slightly soured whey is strained and placed in a casserole on a fire. A
small amount of salt is added. When it starts to boil, it is stirred as maize
flour or cereal is slowly poured in. It is cooked well just like miramisa (see
6.23), while being continuously stirred. The dish is served hot with butter.

9. Kurt (Qwrt)

Salt is added to whey, which is boiled on a gentle fire for 1-1.5 hours. It
is strained by using a gauze sieve. The remains are formed into balls. These
are dried in the sun or in a hearth. Kurt, like cheese, is had with hot pasta,
unleavened maize-bread (chirzhin, or mezhaje), or boiled potatoes.

Associate sayings:
Yi zche qwrt zchedelh xwede: (As if his mouth is stuffed with kurt)
(As) Dumb as an oyster, or a fish.

6. Flour, Cereals, and Haricot

Beans Dishes
The most common methods of preparing dough are first described.

a- The dough described in this section is very nutritious and of high quality.
It is tasty and many dishes may be prepared from it: khirshin (x'irshin), pies,
lakum, etc.

Ingredients: 350-400 g milk, 100-125 g butter or margarine, 3 eggs, 3-4

spoons of sugar, some salt, 100 g fresh leaven.

Butter or margarine is added to warm milk. The milk is mixed with fresh
leaven. Eggs, sugar and some salt are whisked well. The whole lot are
brought together, and wheat flour is poured in. The mixture is kneaded with
a wooden spoon or a belagh (shovel-like wooden instrument used for
stirring). The dough is kneaded till it stops sticking to the walls of the
crockery and trowel. The kneaded dough is placed in an enamelled casserole
and loosely covered with a towel and placed in a cool place (it may be put in
the refrigerator). The dough must rise well. In hot weather, and in the
absence of a fridge, the dough may be loosely covered in a cellophane
package and immersed in cold water. The dough is allowed to rise for 40-60
minutes. Flour is spread on the table or board, and the dough is placed on
the flour and kneaded to a soft pulp. It is now ready to be used.

b- This is a quick and handy way of preparing dough. Eggs, with added
sugar and salt, are whisked well. The mixture is poured into sour milk or
kefir. Baking soda is added to vinegar or lemon juice, and the mixture is
poured into the sour milk mix. Flour is then added, and the dough kneaded.
The dough must be kneaded well till it is firm (the test for readiness is
porosity). The dough is used to make lakum, haliva, etc.

26
 There are other ways of making dough. These will be shown as the
relevant dishes are discussed.

1. Lakum (Lequm)

This may be made from any kind of dough. The dough is rolled to a
thickness of no greater than 5 mm, and then cut into pieces of any size. They
are placed in a cauldron of hot fat and fried to readiness, being turned every
now and then.

The next six entries are all haliva (pasty) dishes. This should not be
confused with halva (paste of nuts, sugar and oil).

2. Haliva Stuffed with Entrails (Helive zchenfen delhu)

Ingredients: sheep entrails, 150-200 g fat, 3-4 onions, salt and red pepper to
taste.

The entrails are placed whole in seething water and boiled for 10-15
minutes. They are removed, chopped fat and onions are added, and the
whole mixture is minced. Salt and pepper are added to taste. The stuffing is
then fried in a brazier. The dough is cut into lumps. Each is rolled to the
desired thickness. The minced entrails are placed on top, and the dough is
sealed in a triangular shape. The prepared haliva are fried in a cauldron of
hot fat. The may also be cooked in the oven. Some soured cream is poured
on the cooked haliva, which is served hot.

3. Haliva Stuffed with Cottage Cheese (Helive q'wey lhalhe delhu)

Cottage cheese is well crumpled. The cheese must become crumbly.

Onion chopped to small pieces is mixed with the cheese, and salt and savory
are added to taste. Any kind of dough may be used. However, the one
mentioned here can be made with ease, and is quite dainty. For this, you
must have 150 g of milk, some baking soda, and salt to taste. Soured cream
and eggs are added to the milk, which is whisked vigorously. The dough is
then kneaded with the milk. The haliva are prepared as is shown in
preceding entry. The are fried in a cauldron of hot fat.

4. Haliva Stuffed with Potato (Helive ch'ert'of delhu)

Any kind of dough may be used, except sweetened ones. Boiled potatoes
are vigorously pounded. Onions fried in butter are added to the potatoes in
large amounts. Hot red pepper is also added. The prepared haliva are fried
in a brazier of hot butter. They may also be cooked in the oven. However,
before being placed in the oven, the haliva are smeared with the white of
egg.

27
5. Haliva stuffed with Potato and Cheese (Helive ch'ert'ofre q'weyre
delhu)

Ingredients for the stuffing: 150-200 g cheese (best salted), 1-2 eggs, 50 g
butter.

Pounded boiled potatoes, crumbled cottage cheese, eggs and butter are
thoroughly mixed to make the stuffing. The haliva are prepared as shown
above. They may either be fried in a cauldron of hot fat, or in the oven.

6. Haliva stuffed with Haricot Beans (Heliva jesh delhu)

Ingredients for the stuffing: 1 kg haricot beans, half a cup of sunflower oil,
5-6 medium-size onions, hot red pepper, salt to taste.

The haricot beans are cooked, and then ground. They also may be
mashed. The onions are fried in sunflower oil. The beans and onions are
mixed, and salt and red pepper are added to taste. The stuffing is now ready.
The haliva are prepared as shown above. They may either be fried in hot fat,
or placed to be cooked in the oven.

7. Haliva Stuffed with Pears (Helive q'wzch delhu)

Dough is prepared, with or without leaven. However, it must be

sweetened by adding sugar. The stuffing is prepared by mixing the flour of
dried pears (q'wzch gheghwa) with honey (refer to the section on sweets and
desserts below for details on how to prepare the stuffing). The stuffing must
be firmly sealed. The haliva are fried in a cauldron in hot fat. The may be
served hot or cold.

Associated sayings:
Shighw helive: 1. Pasty with salt fried specially for divination; 2.
(As) Salt as brine. {yiqwch'e shuwighe}

8. Potato and Cheese Pie (Delen ch'ert'ofre q'weyre delhu)

Dough is prepared, with or without leaven. The potatoes are boiled and
then mashed together with some butter. Soured cream is added to make the
stuffing viscid. Finely chopped onions, finely sliced new fresh cheese (or
soaked salted cheese), savory, and salt to taste are added. The dough, which
is rolled to the size of the baking pan, must be 1-1.5 cm thick. It is placed at
the bottom of the pan such that it reaches the rim. The stuffing is added to a
thickness of 2-2.5 cm. The top is covered with dough more thickly rolled.
The edge is carefully tweaked by hand. The top of the pie is cut at some
places with a knife. The pie is baked in the oven. The cooked pie is placed

28
on a large plate and its head is daubed with butter. It is now ready to be
served.

9. Cottage Cheese Pie (Delen q'wey lhalhe delhu)

Ingredients for the stuffing: 1/2 kg cottage cheese, 2-3 onions, 2 eggs,
savory and salt to taste.

Leavened dough is prepared. The cheese is crumpled well by hand. Eggs

and finely chopped onions are mixed with the cheese. Savory and salt are
added to taste. The pie is prepared and cooked as in the preceding entry. It is
served hot.

10. Cottage Cheese and Green Onions Pie (Delen bzchin ts'inere q'wey
lhalhere delhu)

Ingredients for the stuffing: 1/2 kg cottage cheese, 1-2 eggs, 40-50 g butter,
salt to taste.

Any kind of unsweetened dough may be used. Cottage cheese and sliced
fresh green onions are mixed. Eggs, melted butter, and salt to taste are
added. The pie is prepared and cooked as shown above. The dish is served
hot.

11. Lapstaipkha (Lepsteipx'e)

These are small pieces of short pastry made from wheat dough and
boiled in fat. They are either added to broth or served separately.

Ingredients: 1 egg for every 4-5 pieces, 1/2 glass of water, a little salt, flour.

The dough is well kneaded with the eggs and water. It is rolled slightly
thicker than the dough of khinkal (see). The dough is cut lengthwise into 1-
cm strips, which are then sliced into small pieces. The pieces are fried in fat
like lakum (see), and then removed when ready with a skimmer.
Lapstaipkha are either served in broth or on their own.

12. Flaky Bread (Sch'aq'we zeteiwp'esch'ich')

29
 Flaky bread
(Sch'aq'we zeteiwp'esch'ich')

Many methods are used to prepare flaky bread. Here, two methods are
outlined.

a- Egg yolk and the white of egg are whisked separately. They are then put
back together and poured onto the flour. Soured cream, milk and salt are
added. The dough is kneaded well (but it need not become tough). The
dough is separated into 3 pieces, which are rolled thin. Butter or melted
butter is daubed on one of the rolled pieces, which is subsequently covered
by another. This also is smeared with butter and covered with the third. All
three are rolled together and placed spirally in a pan. To fit properly into the
pan, a rolling-pin is applied to the top of the dough. The bread is baked in a
stove or oven. If baked in an oven, the top of the dough is first daubed with
the white of egg.

Ingredients: 5 eggs, 1/2 cup soured cream, 1/2 cup milk, some salt, flour. It
is best to add 50 g of fresh leaven to the dough.

b- In this method, the dough is kneaded with half a liter of milk or water and
one egg. Salt is added to taste.

N.B. If desired, the flaky bread can be sweetened by adding finely ground
sugar on top of the daubed butter.

13. Shalama (Shelame)

Millet flour is kneaded with boiling milk. It is cooled down. Milk

leaven, wheat flour (1/6 the amount of millet flour), and sugar to taste are
added. The dough is kneaded, covered up and stored in a warm place. When
its height increases by a third, it is ready to be cooked. The dough is slowly
pinched off with wet hands into small lumps and these are flattened out into
1-cm thick layers. They are placed in a cauldron of boiling fat and fried,
being turned over on both sides, until their crust becomes pink. It is served
with honey, cheese, tea, milk, and soured cream.

14. Tkhurimbey (Tx'wrimbey)

One portion of sugar is mixed with four portions of butter. Fresh millet
flour or wheat flour is poured in, and the dough is kneaded well. The dough
is formed into small balls (40-50 g each) and fried in a pan until the crust
acquires a pinky hue. It keeps up to a month.

15. Unleavened Maize Bread (Nartixw chirzhin)

Ingredients: 1 kg maize flour, 100-150 g wheat flour, water, salt to taste.

The maize flour is sifted and poured into a large plate. Water is boiled,
and salt is added to taste. The boiling salt water is poured onto the flour. The

30
mixture is stirred with a belagh until it becomes dough. It is slightly
stretched on a pan and cooled down. Then it is mixed and rolled in wheat
flour to add flavour. The dough is left to stand for a couple of hours, but it
must not be allowed to turn sour. The dough is shaped by hand into round or
oval flat cakes, or into long stripes of 1.5-2 cm width. The prepared dough is
placed in a heated pan daubed with fat. The pan is covered and placed on a
stove of gentle fire. The bread is cooked on both sides. Chirzhin may be
served either hot or cold. It is eaten with salted cheese, soured cream, sour
milk, milk, Kalmyk tea (see).

Note: When the dough pieces are placed in the pan, the hand should be
dipped in water to prevent the dough from sticking to it.

16. Leavened Maize Bread (Chirzhin gheteja)

Maize dough is prepared as in the previous entry. When it cools down, it

is kneaded with an equal amount of wheat flour. Yeast diluted in hot water
is added, and the dough is kneaded. The dough is placed in a warm place.
When it rises, it is prepared as indicated in the preceding entry.

17. Maize Lakum (Nartixw leqwm)

Dough is prepared in either of the two preceding methods. The dough is

pinched off and rolled into cakes of any desired size. They are placed in a
cauldron of hot fat and fried to readiness, being turned every now and then.
It is served either hot or cold. It goes well with dairy products.

18. Unleavened Maize Bread (Nartixw mezhaje)

This is very similar to chirzhin (see 6.15). The maize flour is sifted and
poured into a large plate. Water is boiled, and salt is added to taste. The salt
water is poured onto the flour. The mixture is stirred with a belagh until it
becomes dough. It is slightly stretched on a pan and cooled down. Then it is
mixed and rolled in wheat flour to add flavour. The dough is left to stand for
a couple of hours, but it must not be allowed to turn sour. The dough is
shaped by hand into round or oval flat cakes, or into long stripes of 1.5-2 cm
width. The prepared dough is placed properly in a hot pan daubed with fat.
The pan is covered and placed in the oven. It is baked for 40-60 minutes,
depending on the depth of the pan.

Associated sayings:
Disch mezhaje 'ef'sch: (Home-made mezhaje is tasty) Home-cooked
food is best.

19. Maize Rolls (Hetiq)

The maize flour is sifted and poured into a large plate. Water is boiled,
and salt is added to taste. The salt water is poured onto the flour. The
mixture is stirred with a belagh until it becomes dough. It is slightly

31
stretched on a pan and cooled down. Then it is mixed and rolled in wheat
flour to add flavour. The dough is left to stand for a couple of hours, but it
must not be allowed to turn sour. It is then shaped into round cakes, which
are placed in a hot pan daubed with fat. The rolls are baked in the oven for
40-60 minutes.

20. Maize Rolls with Fat (Sche zixelh hetiq)

Ingredients: 1 kg of maize dough, 100 g or more fat, according to taste.

The maize flour is sifted and poured into a large plate. Water is boiled,
and salt is added to taste. The salt water is poured onto the flour. The
mixture is stirred with a belagh until it becomes dough. It is slightly
stretched on a pan and cooled down. Then it is mixed and rolled in wheat
flour to add flavour. The dough is left to stand for a couple of hours, but it
must not be allowed to turn sour. It is kneaded with sheep's (internal) fat, or
with sheep's tail fat cracklings (ch'ape libzchaxwe) (see 1.8). It is then
shaped into round cakes, which are placed in a hot pan daubed with fat. The
rolls are baked in oven for 40-60 minutes.

21. Unleavened Millet Bread (Xw chirzhin)

Ingredients: 700-800 g millet flour, 100 g wheat flour, milk.

Millet flour with some wheat flour and warm milk are kneaded. The
dough is left to stand for 2-3 hours in a warm place. The prepared dough is
placed in a heated pan daubed with fat. The pan is covered and placed on a
stove of gentle fire. The bread is cooked on both sides. Chirzhin may be
served either hot or cold. It is served with salted cheese, soured cream, sour
milk, milk, or Kalmyk tea (see).

22. Unleavened Millet Bread (Xw mezhaje)

The millet flour is sifted and poured into a large plate. Water is boiled,
and salt is added to taste. The salt water is poured onto the flour. The
mixture is stirred with a belagh until it becomes dough. It is slightly
stretched on a pan and cooled down. Then it is mixed and rolled in wheat
flour to add flavour. The dough is left to stand for a couple of hours, but it
must not be allowed to turn sour. The dough is shaped by hand into round
or oval flat cakes, or into long stripes of 1.5-2 cm width. The prepared
dough is placed properly in a hot pan daubed with fat. The pan is covered
and placed in the oven. It is baked for 40-60 minutes, depending on the
depth of the pan.
23. Miramisa (Miramise)

Salted water is boiled to seething in a cauldron or aluminium casserole.

Without removing the casserole from the fire, sifted maize flour is poured in
and mixed and stirred with a belagh (traditional cooking trowel). The
mixture is well kneaded and is cooked for 8-10 minutes. The cooking vessel
is then removed from the fire, and the cooked food is placed on a plate using

32
the belagh. It is now ready to be served. Warm Miramisa is had with butter,
honey, cheese, soured cream, sour milk, milk, and meat dishes. Miramisa is
best served warm. It is similar to hominy or polenta.

24. Hakurt, hakut (Heqwrt, heqwt)

Dried ripe maize seeds are placed in a pan and roasted well (till they
brown), and then allowed to cool down. They are winnowed and ground.
The flour has a nice smell. It keeps in a dry, well aired place for a long time.
It is had with milk and honey. In a deep plate or a drinking vessel, 4-5
spoons of heqwrt are placed, then milk is poured in and the mixture stirred.
With honey, It must be first kneaded well and then cut into pieces and
served with tea.

Associated sayings:
Yi zche heqwt zchedelh xwedesch (nex'ey): (As if his mouth is
crammed with hakurt) 1. (As) Dumb as an oyster, or a fish; 2. (As)
Straight as a poker.

25. Boiled Corn-cobs (Nartixwsch'e gheva)

Fresh and softish corn-cobs (whose milk is still not dry) are peeled and
placed in a casserole. Cold water is added and maize peel is put on top to
make the cobs tastier. The vessel is covered, and the cobs are cooked to
readiness. Salt is strewn on the cobs to taste.

26. Roasted Corn-cobs (Nartixwsch'e ghezcha)

Fresh and softish corn-cobs (whose milk is still not dry) are peeled and
roasted on live coal. They are served hot.

27. Corn Flakes (Nartixw ghep'ench'a)

Wheat bran or millet husks are placed in a cauldron and roasted well
while being stirred. Some hard-dried red maize seeds (these are best), are
poured in and roasted, while continuously being stirred, until they all pop.
The popped seeds come to rest on the millet husks, so they are easily
removed. More maize seeds are added to the vessel and cooked in the same
way. If the cauldron is not large, no more than one cup of maize seeds is
poured at one time.

28. Maize Halama (Nartixw hel'ame)

The maize flour is sifted and poured into a large plate. Water is boiled,
and salt is added to taste. The boiling salt water is poured onto the flour. The
mixture is stirred with a belagh until it becomes dough. It is slightly
stretched on a pan and cooled down. Then it is mixed and rolled in wheat
flour to add flavour. The dough is left to stand for 1-2 hours in a warm

33
place. The dough is shaped by hand into round or oval flat cakes, or into
long stripes of 1.5-2 cm width. These are placed in a cauldron of seething
salt water and cooked. When they are ready, they come up to the surface,
whence they are removed with a skimmer. They are put straight in cold
water and rinsed. Halama may be had with dairy products or meat dishes.
Halama soup may be added to either milk or soured cream and had with
halama.

Associated sayings:
Hel'ame qak'weme, ch'efiy nek'wen(u)sch: 1. (You) Roll my log and
I'll roll yours; 2. (You) Scratch my back and I'll scratch yours; 3. Claw
me and I will claw thee; 4. Ka me, ka thee; 5. Nothing for nothing.
Hel'ame ch'ededze: Chip in broth. {Mihene ziymi'e zigwer}
Hel'amer yi 'ihew qenen: To be left in the basket. {To be left with
empty hands}
Hel'ame gheva wosch'e we: You know nothing.

29. Millet Halama (Xw hel'ame)

Millet flour is kneaded with a small quantity of wheat flour and warm
milk. The dough is allowed to stand for 1-2 hours. The dough is shaped by
hand into round or oval flat cakes, or into long strips of 1.5-2 cm width.
These are placed in a cauldron of seething salt water and cooked. When they
are ready, they come up to the surface, whence they are removed with a
skimmer. They are put straight in cold water and rinsed. Halama may be
had with dairy products or meat dishes. Halama soup may be added to
either milk or soured cream and had with halama.

For associated sayings say preceding entry.

30. Kilish (Qilish)

Maize flour is kneaded well with unsalted water. The dough is shaped
into thin round cakes, which are cooked on live coal of gentle heat, being
turned on both sides. They may also be roasted in a pan.

31. Pasta (P'aste)

In the old days, pasta was the staple food of the Circassians. Many
foods, desserts and beverages used to be made from it. It was used as a
bread. As in the past, pasta made from husked millet is the most wide-
spread kind. It is always served with dairy products and meat dishes instead
of bread. Pasta is easy to prepare.

Water is brought to the boil in a cauldron or an aluminium casserole.

Husked millet is thoroughly cleaned in warm water. The millet is poured
into the water as it starts to boil. It is stirred once, then the intensity of the
fire is reduced. When the millet is cooked, it is kneaded with a belagh
without removing it from the fire. When the pasta stops sticking to the
vessel and the, it is deemed ready trowel. It is placed on a plate and patted to

34
shape. It is necessary that the belagh be moistened every now and then. The
pasta is cut into pieces and served. It may be had either hot or cold. If served
cold, the crust must first be cut off.

Millet is added to water in the ratio 1:3. However, if the millet is old and
stale, it may not absorb all the water. In this case, a small quantity of maize
flour or cereal is added to ensure that the pasta attains the required
consistency.

Hantkhups, or millet soup, may be prepared when pasta is made. This is

the only soup in Circassian cuisine that may be served as the first dish
(usually soup and broth are had last).

Associated sayings and expressions:

P'aste mighwe: Bitter bread.
P'aste mighwe yireigheshx: 1. He is annoying him; 2. He is not
allowing him breathing space.

32. Crumbly Pasta (P'aste lhalhe)

Water is brought to the boil in a cauldron or an aluminium casserole.

Husked millet are thoroughly cleaned in warm water. The millet is poured
into the water as it starts to boil. It is stirred once, then the intensity of the
fire is reduced. The vessel is covered and the millet is cooked. As the cereal
begins to become loose, the lid is removed and the upper layers of the millet
are dried on a gentle fire without stirring. The dried millet is removed with a
skimmer and place on a flat plate. It is allowed to dry for 10-15 minutes. It
is served hot. It is poured in fresh milk, sour milk, or soured cream.

33. Maize Pasta (Nartixw p'aste)

Maize seeds are winnowed, washed thoroughly in running water, and

then poured in boiling water. While being cooked on a gentle fire, they are
kneaded with a belagh. If the need arises, a small quantity of maize flour or
cereal are poured in. When the maize is ready, it is placed on a plate and
patted to shape. It is served with dairy products and meat dishes. The ratio
of maize to water is slightly greater than 1:3. Maize hantkhups may be
prepared in the same way as millet soup (see 6.37). In this case, the relative
amount of water is increased.

34. Sok (Sok)

Millet is fried in a brazier or a small cauldron, being stirred

continuously. It is cooled down and then pounded in a wooden mortar until
the husks are removed. The crushed millet is poured into fresh or boiled
milk, and is allowed to stand for 1-2 hours. This food is eaten cold. Instead
of millet, well-fried husked millet may be used. In this case, milk is poured
into the husked millet, which is cooked on a gentle fire.

35
35. Shopransy (Shopransiy)

Husked millet is thoroughly washed, poured into boiling water and

cooked on a gentle fire. When the seeds become puffy, the millet is removed
with a skimmer and placed in a sieve. It is dried for a while and then poured
into boiling milk. It is cooked to readiness. Either sugar or salt may be
added to taste. The dish is served hot. It is most wholesome for breast-
feeding mothers.

36. Khubala (Xwbela)

Husked millet is thoroughly washed, poured into boiling water and

cooked for a few minutes till the seeds become puffy. These are removed
and placed on a table or a board to cool down. A small quantity of wheat
flour is added to the millet, which is thoroughly mixed by both hands until
the flour covers all the seeds. The millet is then placed in seething milk and
cooked to readiness, at which time the consistency will be neither thick nor
thin. Salt is added to taste. This is a dainty food.

37. Hantkhups, Millet Soup (Hentx'wps)

The Circassians call all cereal soups hantkhups. However, the fastest
prepared is husked millet soup. Water is brought to the boil in a cauldron or
an aluminium casserole. Husked millet are thoroughly cleaned in warm
water. The millet is poured into the water as it starts to boil. In this case, the
water to millet ratio is 4:1. As the millet begins to boil, the soup is removed
from the top of the vessel with a small bowl, leaving enough liquid to cook
the pasta. The soup is placed on a gentle fire. When it is ready, salt is added
to taste. Before it is served, sour milk, soured cream, or both are added. It
may also be had with fresh cheese. In this case, the cheese is sliced into
small pieces and placed in the seething soup after it is removed from the
fire. Hantkhups is served hot. It is not had with bread. it may be taken with
garden or black radishes. Pasta may be also prepared using this method.

38. Haguliva, Boiled Barley (Hegwlive)

Barley is pounded, thoroughly washed and cooked in either water or

milk. After being cooked in water either milk, soured cream, or sour milk is
poured into the barley. Salt is added to taste.

39. Ashira ('eshiri', 'eshire', 'eshri', 'eshre')

Maize is pounded in a mortar, and winnowed till the husks are

completely removed. It is washed thoroughly, and then heated with some
haricot beans. As it nears cooking, a small quantity of rice is added. Other
ingredients may be added according to taste (meat, husked millet, onion,
etc.). However, maize must remain the prevalent ingredient. Before it is
served, milk or soured cream is poured, and salt added to taste. Ashira is
served either hot or cold.

36
The word 'eshiri' is associated with the day of the murder of Imam Hussein,
son of Imam Ali. It is one of the very few influences of Shiism on
Circassian culture. It is used figuratively to denote a heterogeneous mixture.

Associated sayings:
'eshri'er zighevam yirireifizh: 1. You make your bed, now lie in it; 2.
Who breaks, pays; 3. As you brew, so must you drink.

40. Khudir (X'wdir)

Maize flour is poured onto boiling salted water until it acquires the
consistency of soured cream. It is cooked for 8-10 minutes, being stirred
continuously. It is served hot with butter.

Associated sayings:
Gwghw weihinume, x'wdirim dzer 'weisch'ich': An unfortunate man
would be drowned in a teacup.
Nasip ziymi'em yi dzer x'wdirim 'weisch'ich': An unfortunate man
would be drowned in a teacup.

41. Khudirbalatsa (X'wdirbelatse)

The required quantity of sifted wheat flour is strewn on the table. The
flour is sprinkled with cold water and mixed a little (but not kneaded). It is
poured into boiling salted water and cooked for 10 minutes, being stirred
continuously. It must acquire the consistency of soured cream when it is
ready. The dish is served hot with butter. Unfortunately, khudir and
khudirbalatsa are no longer prepared.

42. Sweet Rice Pilaw (Prunzh 'ef')

Ingredients: 500 g rice, 150 g melted butter, sugar and raisins to taste.

Rice is sorted and washed thoroughly. It is placed in salted water for

1/2-1 hours. It is removed, poured into boiling water, cooked for 5-7
minutes, and then removed again.

Butter is melted in a casserole. Sugar and raisins are added together with
the rice. Half a cup of water is sprinkled onto the mixture. The vessel is
covered tightly, and placed on a gentle fire for 25-30 minutes. When it is
ready, the pilaw is served with soured milk.

43. Psihaliva, Dumplings (Psiheliva)

37
 The literal meaning of psihaliva is water pasties (psi water, helive
pasties; see 6.2-7). There are many kinds of fillings used: minced meat,
cottage cheese, potatoes, fruits, strawberries, raspberries, cherries, etc.

44. Meat Dumplings (Psihelive melil delhu)

Ingredients: 500 g mutton, 200-300 g onion, and butter, salt, red pepper, and
coriander to taste.

Mutton is sliced into very small pieces and fried with an ample quantity
of onion. Salt and ground hot red pepper are added to taste. The dumplings
are not made very small. These are placed in boiling salted water and
cooked to readiness. They are removed and put on a plate. Sliced onions are
fried in butter on a gentle fire. When it is ready, red pepper is added. The
fried onions are placed on the dumplings. The dish is ready to be served.
Fresh green onions are also served. Coriander may be added to taste.

45. Chicken Dumplings (Psihelive jedil delhu)

Chicken meat is chopped into small pieces and fried in butter or melted
butter with straw onions and ground hot red pepper. Salt is added to taste.
Dumpling dough is prepared and rolled out. It is cut out into small round
pieces using a glass (liqueur-glass). The chicken meat is placed on the cut
pieces and the edges are sealed. The stuffed pieces are placed in boiling
milk and cooked. When the dumplings come to the surface, they are
removed with a skimmer and placed on a plate. The dish is served hot with
garlic sauce. The sauce is prepared by mixing two equal amounts of soured
cream and sour milk and then adding pounded garlic and salt to taste.

The milk in which the dumplings were cooked is used to make soup.
Cleaned husked millet is placed in boiling water and cooked for 7-10
minutes. It is removed and cooled down. Wheat flour is poured on the millet
and the two are thoroughly mixed until the flour covers all the millet seeds.
The mixture is sifted, poured into the boiling milk and cooked until ready.
Salt is added to taste. According to customs, the order of serving is as
follows. The dumplings are first presented with the garlic sauce and then the
soup is served.

46. Haricot Bean Sauce (Jesh libzche)

Haricot beans are cleaned and washed thoroughly. They are poured into
boiling water and left to stand for 6-8 hours. The water is poured out, and
new water is poured in and boiled. When the beans are ready, they are
removed by a skimmer and mashed or ground. Ground hot red peppers are
strewn on onions fried in butter, or melted butter, in a deep pan. The onions
are added to the mashed beans, which are fried again for some time, while
being stirred. Fresh cheese cut into small pieces is added to the sauce.
Soured cream is poured in, and the sauce is replaced on a gentle fire, while
being stirred all the time. It is kept on fire until all the cheese dissolves. Salt

38
and savory are added to taste. Also, pounded garlic may be added. The dish
is served hot. It is had with either pasta, chirzhin, or bread. The sauce may
also be prepared without cheese. In this case, soured cream is poured in
instead, and the sauce placed on a gentle fire, while being stirred
continuously.

47. Haricot Bean Soup (Jesh leps)

Haricot beans are thoroughly washed, placed in water and allowed to

stand overnight. The next morning, they are cooked in a casseole for 1-1.5
hours, then the water is poured out. Cold water is poured in and the cooking
vessel is placed on fire. Onions are fried with red pepper, and then added
into the casserole, which is kept on fire for another 5-10 minutes. Fresh
green onions and coriander are added. Before being served, soured cream is
poured into the soup.

48. Haricot Bean Soup With Potato (Jesh leps ch'ert'of xelhu)

Haricot beans are washed, placed in water and allowed to stand

overnight. The next morning, it is cooked in a casseole for 1-1.5 hours, then
the water is poured out. Cold water is poured in and the cooking vessel is
placed on the fire. Sliced potatoes are fried with red pepper, and then added
into the casserole, which is kept on the fire for another 5-10 minutes. This
may also be used to make broth.

7. Potato and Gourd Dishes

(Ch'ert'of, qeb shxinighwexer)

1. Fried Potatoes (Ch'ert'of zcherikwey)

The potatoes are cleaned, peeled and sliced into small thin chips. Salt
and red pepper are added to taste. Either sheep's tail fat, melted butter, or
sunflower oil is boiled up in a deep brazier, and the chips are fried, being
turned slowly. As it nears readiness, finely chopped onions are added to the
brazier, which is covered and kept on the fire for 5-10 minutes. Then the
chips are stirred well and fried till they are ready. Onion, coriander and
savory are added.

2. New Potatoes Stewed in Soured Cream (Ch'ert'ofisch'e shatech'e

ghezchawe)

39
 The potatoes are peeled, thoroughly cleaned, and sliced into thin pieces.
The chips are placed in a brazier or casserole. Finely chopped onion,
coriander, ground red pepper, savory, and salt to taste are added. Butter is
then added, and some water is poured in. The vessel is covered and placed
on a gentle fire until the chips are cooked. Then soured cream is poured in
so that it immerses the chips, and is kept on the fire for 5-6 minutes. The
dish is served hot with vegetables. Old potatoes can also be used.

3. Potato Paste (Ch'ert'of p'aste)

The potatoes are peeled, thoroughly cleaned and placed in a casserole.

They are cooked in water. The water is poured out, and the potatoes are
kneaded while they are hot. The mash is removed from the cooking vessel,
placed on a plate and patted into shape. It is served with fried or roasted
meat. It may also be had with sour milk, soured cream, cracklings, or strong
cheese.

4. Potato Stewed in Soured Cream or Broth (Ch'ert'ofim ships sch'etu)

Finely chopped onion is fried in butter. Ground red pepper is added to

taste. The potatoes are peeled, thoroughly cleaned, and sliced into thin
chips. They are added to the pan and fried, being stirred all the time. Some
broth or water is poured in. The pan is covered and kept on the fire until the
contents are ready. Broth or cream is poured in until it immerses the
potatoes. The food is cooked for a few minutes. Salt and red pepper are
added to taste. After being removed from the fire, the dish may be spiced
with pounded garlic.

5. Boiled Gourd (Qeb gheva)

The gourd is sliced into approximately 10x10 cm pieces, and placed in a

casserole with the rind turned upwards. If the skin is hard, the gourd may be
chopped. Water is poured in to reach a third of the height of the vessel,
which is covered and the gourd cooked. When it is ready, it is removed from
the casserole, and then placed on a large plate with the pulpy side upwards.
It is served either hot or cold. It may be had with milk, honey, or soured
cream.

6. Baked Gourd (Qeb ghezcha)

The gourd is sliced into pieces. They are placed in a pan with the skin
turned downwards, and baked in the oven. When it is ready, it is placed on a
large plate with the pulpy side turned upwards. It is served either hot or
cold. It may be had with milk, honey, or soured cream.

7. Gourd Sauce (Qeb ships)

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 It is better to use sweet gourd for this dish instead of round ones. The
gourd is sliced into pieces and cooked in a casserole. When it is ready, the
inside is removed. This is either mashed thoroughly or minced. The pulp is
put in an enamelled casserole, which is covered, placed in a warm room and
kept there overnight. By the next morning, the mash acquires a sourish
smell. Milk is boiled. Some ground hot red pepper is added to the milk. The
milk is then poured onto the gourd mash, which is stirred vigorously. The
pulp is strained. It is poured into a glass vessel or an earthenware (ceramic)
pot, which is placed in a cool place. Gourd sauce is pleasant and nutritious.
It is served as a sauce.

8. Drinks and Beverages

(Yirafxer)

1. Kalmyk Tea (Qalmiq shey)

Water is poured into a casserole. For every liter of cold water, 15-20
grammes of brick-tea (compacted) are added. The water is boiled for 10-15
minutes. The vessel is removed and allowed to stand for a few hours, with
the lid tightly applied. It is best if you boil it in the evening and allow it to
brew until day-break. The tea is then sifted and placed over the fire. For
every liter of tea 1.5 liters of milk are poured in, and the whole mixture is
boiled. If cream is used instead of milk, then for every 3 liters of tea, one
liter of cream is used. Salt and either red or black pepper are added to taste.
The Kalmyk tea is now ready. It is best to have it at breakfast. It is served
with either lekum, bread, or unleavened maize-bread (chirzhin), and
Circassian cheese and butter. It is possible to use the following for the brew:
wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare), dog-rose (Rosa canina), dried cherry
twigs.

2. Makhsima (Maxsime)

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 Makhsima (Maxsime)

This is the Circassian national beverage. It is also called bakhsima

(bax'sime). It is similar to boza, bosa, or bouza. There are many ways of
preparing it. The following method is the oldest.

Ingredients: 1 kg of maize or millet flour for each 100g of wheat flour, 10 g

leaven, sugar as desired (on average 100g per liter of beverage).

Maize or millet dough is vigorously kneaded in unsalted water. If maize

dough is used, then boiling water is added for kneading. For millet dough,
hot water is used. It is then baked like unleavened maize-bread (chirzhin). It
is crumbled as it gets cool, and then placed in a large casserole. Water (2-3
times as much) is then poured in. Wheat flour is then added, and the mixture
is stirred on a gentle fire so as not to get burnt on the vessel, until it becomes
thick (wort). The casserole is removed and cooled down to 40 °C. Leaven is
added, and the concoction is left to stand for a few hours to be allowed to be
imbued and tempered, and to ferment. Boiling water (3-4 times as large as
the wort mixture) is cooled down and then poured in. The whole thing is
then passed through a sieve, and the lees are squeezed out. Slightly roasted
sugar is then added to the sifted makhsima. The liquid is then poured into a
large bottle or an earthenware pot, and allowed to stand for a few days. At
the time, Its strength reaches between 6-8%. However, its strength increases
with time. Sugar is added every now and then.

3. Maramazey (Meremezchey)

This is a kind of makhsima (see preceding entry). It is made from millet

dough. As it becomes ready, wax honey is added. The barrel or pot is sealed
off, and the concoction is fermented for six months to one year.

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 9. Sweets and Desserts
('Ef'ich'exer)

Sweets and desserts ('ef'ich'exer)

1. Haliwa (Heliwe) [Sweet, dessert in Arabic]

Ingredients: 1/2 kg melted butter, millet (or wheat) flour, 1/2 kg sugar, 1
glass of water.

Melted butter is placed in a small cauldron, or a casserole, and melted.

As it begins to seethe, millet flour is poured in and cooked for 10-15
minutes, while being continuously stirred (traditionally with a belagh, a
shovel-like wooden instrument used for stirring). The cauldron is removed,
the contents stirred, and sugar-water is slowly poured and thoroughly mixed
with the flour. The cauldron is replaced on a gentle fire, stirred and cooked
for a few minutes. When the haliwa is ready, it is placed on a large flat
plate, or a special board, its thickness not greater than 4-5 cm. When it
cools, it is sliced into 4x4 cm, or larger, squares. Haliwe can keep up to a
month.

2. Marazey (Merezey)

Plums, cherry-plums, or apples are used to make this dessert. The fruits
are assiduously cleaned and peeled, and then placed in a cauldron. A cup of
water for each kg of fruit is added, and the fruit is boiled for 1-1.5 hours.
The contents are filtered, and the drained liquid is placed over the fire. It is
stirred continuously, as it is boiled for 40-60 minutes. As it starts to set, it is
poured thinly on a plank or plywood and placed under the sun. The plank
and plywood should be daubed with wax or fat oil to prevent sticking. After

43
it is fully dried, the marazey is removed, rolled, placed either in white paper
or cloth, and then stored in a dry place. Marazey is acid. It may be added to
tea. It is also soaked, sweetened with sugar, and used to make pastry
(helive).

3. Nuts with Honey (Dere fore zexelhu)

Walnuts are roasted and then cooled down. They are pounded in a
mortar, but not too finely. They are placed in a vessel, and honey is poured
in until it inundates the pounded nuts. They whole mixture is stirred. This is
a dainty and nutritious dish. It keeps for a long time.

4. Water-melon Honey (X'arbiz fo)

The middle of a ripe water-melon is taken out and vigorously squeezed

by the hands. It is then run through a sieve and the liquid is placed on the
fire. When it comes to the boil, the intensity of the fire is reduced, and it is
simmered until it becomes thick, brown and viscous, similar to the
consistency of fresh honey. This food keeps for a long time. It may be had
in the same way as honey. To make the dish more savoury, 2 spoonfuls of
cream or fresh soured cream are added for every 100 g.

5. Dried Pears (Q'wzch gheghwa)

Sweet, but not overripe, pears are selected for this dainty dish. Each pear
is sliced into 2-4 pieces, depending on the size, and the pips are removed.
They are immersed in salty water for 2-3 minutes, scooped out, rinsed, and
left to be dried on a plank. They are then ground. The flour is mixed with
honey and is used as stuffing for pastry (helive). Also, small honeyed
dumplings may be made and served.

6. Zacharis (Zech'eris)

Zacharis (Zech'eris)

One spoon of vodka, two of sugar, salt, baking soda and 3-4 eggs are
whisked. The flour is poured into a deep plate, and a small hole is made in
the middle. The whisked eggs are poured in and the dough is kneaded (it
must be made softer than khinkal dough). The dough is divided into three
lumps. These are cut lengthwise with the width not exceeding 1/2 cm. Two

44
equal amounts of melted butter and sunflower oil (1/2 kg each) are poured
into a cauldron and boiled fiercely. The dough pieces are fried until they
become slightly red, and then removed with a skimmer. They are placed on
a large flat plate, sugared honey-water is poured on, and the whole lot is
stirred carefully. The mass is then shaped by the wet hand into any desired
form and thickness. When it cools down, it is cut into pieces and served.

How to prepare the sugared honey-water: Half a cup of sugar is added to

200-250 g of honey, and mixed thoroughly with it. The mixture is placed on
a gentle fire until it is ready. To know if it is ready, cold drops of water are
dripped into the honey. If they do not dissolve and get stuck to the fingers,
and if they form into globules, the honey-water is ready.

10. Vegetables
(Xadexech'xer)

Vegetables (Xadexech'xer)

Other dishes not included above

Fowripsch: honey-pie, honey-tart.

Hebive: dish made of barley and raisins.
Helu: unleavened bread shaped like a large flat-cake, baked in the
Caucasus.
Shighwships: strong solution of salt.

General Sayings and Expressions

Associated with Food Stuffs and Eating
(Not included in text above)

Dekwm xwedew qeghepts'en: 1. To turn somebody round one's

finger; 2. To catch with chaff.

45
 Hesch'ap'e k'wewe qiynezham xwedew: The best fish smell when
they are three days old.
Hesch'ap'eriner yemik'wsch: It is unseemly to overstay one's
welcome.
Hesch'e ley schi'eqim: No guest should be regarded as a burden. All
guests are welcome.
Hesch'e sch'ale schi'eqim: All guests must be respected, no matter
how young.
Jedich'e shk'wmp' yi waseqim: (Not worth a rotten egg) Not worth a
bean (or button, curse, damn).
Sch'aq'we 'ihe qwdey qizisch'ech'in qemilezchin: Not to earn salt for
one's porridge. {ziriy qemilezchin zhixwiy'esch}
Shaschher teizishxich'a xwedew (ziywschexwasch): To look like the
cat who swallowed the canary.
Shaschher teixin: Cat the ginger (amer.).
Shemiy seys, shxwmiy seys: 1. To have mixed feelings; 2. Between
the upper and nether millstone; 3. Between Scylla and Charybdis.
Shem yisar shxwm yopsche: (He who was burnt by the milk blows
on the yoghourt) 1. Once bit(ten), twice shy; 2. The scalded cat (or dog)
fears cold water; 3. A burnt child dreads the fire; 4. Burnt bairns dread
the fire (Scottish).
Shibzhiy xwiywden: (To pound hot red pepper for somebody) To cast
salt on somebody's tail.
Shighwp'aste: Bread-and-salt
Shighw six'wa se sitk'wnu: 1. I am not made of salt; 2. I am neither
sugar nor salt.
Shxen sch'ebdzeme, shxinir pschok'we: Eating and scratching wants
just a beginning (Scottish).
Wiy sch'aq'we 'iher psch'enshew mishxin: To earn one's salt.

Glossary
Collected by Amjad Jaimoukha

Ashira: Pounded maize cooked with haricot beans, rice, and other
ingredients. It is mainly prepared for a Shi'i religious feast.
Bakhsima: See makhsima.
Bajina: A dish of cooked Whey and maize flour.
Belagh: Traditional shovel-like wooden instrument for stirring;
wooden trowel.
Boza, Bosa: A drink made of millet-seed fermented and certain
astringents. Also called boosa, booza, bouza.
Chirzhin: Unleavened maize (or millet) bread.

46
 Chischmisch: Raisins.
Haguliva: Pounded Barley boiled in water or milk.
Hakurt: Flour made by grinding roasted maize seeds.
Hakut: See preceding entry.
Halama: Flat maize cakes boiled in water.
Haliva: Fried triangular pasties with mainly cottage cheese or potato
filling.
Hantkhups: Millet soup.
Jadlibja: Chicken in Soured Cream Sauce.
Khinkal: Circassian noodles.
Khubala: Husked millet seeds covered with wheat flour and cooked
in milk.
Khudir: Boiled maize flour.
Khudirbalatsa: Boiled wheat flour.
Kurt: A dairy product similar to cheese.
Lakum: Puffs, buns.
Lepsteipx'e: These are small pieces of short pastry made from
wheat dough and boiled in fat.
Li: Meat.
Makhsima: National Circassian beverage. It is similar to boza. Also
called bakhsima.
Mamalyga: Russian word for hominy or polenta; miramisa.
Mezhaje: Unleavened maize (or millet) bread.
Miramisa: Circassian hominy or polenta.
Pasta: See next item.
P'aste: Pasta, ground-millet dumplings.
Shkuz: Milk preserve.
Ships: 1. Sauce; 2. National sauce.
Shopransy: Husked millet boiled in milk.
Sok: Fried Millet and milk.
Whey: The serum or watery part of milk which remains after the
separation of the curd by coagulation, especially in the manufacture of
cheese.

Adigean Cuisine

Adigean cuisine is mainly prepared with butter. Only desserts are made
using vegetable oil. Dishes are usually served with "garlic salt" (salt grated
with garlic) and coriander. Soft, home-made Adigean cheese is absolutely
essential in the local cuisine. Adigean and Kabardian cuisines are very
closely related.

Koyazh

Ingredients for one serving: 200 g unsmoked Circassian cheese, 30 g butter,

70 g onion, salt and spices to taste.

Fry onion and ground red pepper in butter until they are golden. Add the
cheese and fry for a further 5 minutes. Serve separately or with mamalyga.

47
 Mamalyga

Ingredients: 3 litres water, 500 g maize cereal, 100 g margarine, and salt to
taste.

Pour the maize into salted water and boil until slightly thick, but before
sticking to the spoon. Cut into pieces and serve with meat and dairy dishes.

Koyazh and mamalyga

Meat Broth (Lileps)

Meat broth

Ingredients for one serving: 100 g beef, 5 g garlic, 5 g butter, 40 g onion, a

carrot, 1 g spices.

Slice onions, grate a carrot, and place everything in a frying-pan with

boiling fat. Fry to a rosy colour. Cut boiled meat into small cubes and place
into boiling broth. Add fried vegetables and cook for 10 minutes. When it is
ready, sprinkle garlic, salt, and spices to taste.

Palkao

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 Ingredients: 1 litre milk, 10 eggs, 10 g soda, 1 teaspoon vinegar, 250 g
vegetable oil, and a syrup of 1.5 l water and 3 kg sugar.

Palkao

Knead heavy dough (soak soda in vinegar), divide into two or three equal
parts, roll out and cut into stripes 10 cm wide. Grease the end of the rolling-
pin with vegetable oil, spiral one stripe on it and then slip it off. Drop the
stripe into boiling vegetable oil. Fry it to redness, turning it from side to
side. Scoop it out, dip it in sugar syrup, and place onto an oven pan to cool.

Notes
1. Istoriya adigeiskogo naroda, Shora B. Nogmov, republished:
Nalchik, 1947. [Nogmov’s seminal work was rendered into Circassian:
Adige narodim yi txide. Sh. B. Negwme. Nalchik, 1958. There are also
German and Arabic versions by A. Bergé and S. Al-Mufti, respectively]
2. Iliade, chant no. IX, p. 165.
3. L. Y. Lyule, 'Natukhaevtsy, shapsugi i abadzekhi', in Zapiski
Kavkazskogo otdela IRGO, vol. 4, 1857. [Nartkhuaj, Shapsugh, and
Abzakh. Three of the Circassian tribes]

Bibliography

'Adyge Cuisine', in Passport to the New World, Moscow: Passport

International Ltd., November-December, 1995, p87.
Azamatova (Azemet), M. Z., Adigeiskie blyuda [Adigean Dishes], Maikop,
1971.
---- Adigeiskaya kukhnya [Adigean Cuisine], Maikop, 1979.
Schojen, V. S., Adige shxinxer, Adigskaya kukhnya [Circassian Cuisine],
Nalchik: Kabardino-Balkarskaya Organizatsiya dobrovolnogo
obschestva knigoliubov RSFSR [The Kabardino-Balkarian
Organization of the Voluntary Society of Book Lovers], 1991. [In
Kabardian and Russian. Colour photos]
Hani, Satanay, Al-ma'kulat al-sharkassiyya [Circassian Dishes], Amman:
Al-Jeel al-Jadeed Club, 1989. [Arabic translation of Azamatova's
work, 1979]

49