Ireland Planning
Ireland Planning
Ireland Planning
welcome to
Ireland
A small country with a big reputation, helped along by a timeless, age-caressed landscape and a fascinating, friendly people, whose lyrical nature is expressed in the warmth of their welcome.
(left) Evening at the Giants Causeway (p658) (below) Enjoying the craic in the Market Bar (p110), Dublin
Tread Carefully
for you tread on history. Everywhere you go Irelands history presents itself, from the breathtaking monuments of prehistoric Ireland at Br na Binne to the fabulous ruins of Irelands rich monastic past at Glendalough and Clonmacnoise. More recent history is visible in the famine museum in Cobh to the interactive displays of Vinegar Hill in County Wexford. And theres history so young that its still considered the present, best experienced on a black-taxi tour of West Belfast or an examination of Derrys astonishingly colourful political murals.
A Cultural Well
Ireland operates an astonishing cultural surplus. Throughout your travels you will be overwhelmed by the choices on oer a play by one of the theatrical greats in Dublin, a traditional music session in a west-Ireland pub or a rock gig in a Limerick saloon. The Irish summer is awash with all manner of festivals, celebrating everything from owers in bloom to high literature.
T Filte Romhat
(Taw fall-cha row-at) Youre very welcome. Or, more famously, cad mle filte a hundred thousand welcomes. Why a hundred thousand when one is perfectly adequate everywhere else? Irish friendliness is a
tired clich, an over-simplication of a character that is innitely complex, but theres no denying that the Irish are warm and welcoming, if a little reserved at rst. Wherever you meet them the shop, the bar, the bank queue theres a good chance a conversation will be struck up, pleasantries exchanged and, should you be a stranger in town, the oer of a helping hand extended. But, lest you think this is merely an act of unfettered altruism, rest assured that the comfort they seek is actually their own, for the Irish cannot be at ease in the company of those who arent. A hundred thousand welcomes. It seems excessive, but in Ireland, excess is ne, so long as its practised in moderation. Friendly but never fawning.
EXPERIENCES
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Dublin
7 Irelands capital (p54) and largest city by some stretch is the main gateway into the country, but it has enough distractions to keep visitors mesmerised for at least a few days. From worldclass museums and entertainment, superb dining and top-grade hotels, Dublin has all the baubles of a major international metropolis. But the real clinchers are Dubliners themselves, who are friendlier, more easy-going and welcoming than the burghers of virtually any other European capital. And its the home of Guinness. OConnell Bridge and OConnell St, below
The Pub
Every town and hamlet has at least one: no matter where you go, youll nd that the social heart of the country beats loudest in the pub, still the best place to discover what makes the country tick. In suitable surroundings whether a quiet traditional pub with agstone oors and a large peat re or a more modern bar with ashing lights and music take a moment or an evening to listen for that beating heartand drink some decent beer in the process. Pub in Temple Bar, Dublin, above
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Galway City
Traditional Music
Western Europes most vibrant folk music is Irish traditional music (p712), which may have earned worldwide fame thanks to the likes of Riverdance but is best expressed in a more sedate setting, usually an old-fashioned pub. The west of Ireland is particularly musical: from Donegal down to Kerry there are centres of musical excellence, none more so than Doolin (p311) in County Clare, the unocial capital of Irish music. Its unlikely youll be asked to join in, but theres nothing stopping your foot from tapping and your hands from clapping. Playing Celtic music at a cilidh, left
One word to describe Galway city (p384)? Craic! Irelands liveliest city literally hums through the night at music-lled pubs where you can hear three old guys playing spoons and ddles or a hot, young band. Join the locals as they bounce from place to place, never knowing what fun lies ahead but certain of the possibility. Add in local bounty such as the famous oysters and nearby adventure in the Connemara Peninsula and the Aran Islands and the fun never ends. Galway City harbour, below
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Dingle is the name of both the picturesque peninsula (p297) jutting into the Atlantic from County Kerry, strewn with ancient ruins, and its delightful main town (p299), the peninsulas beating heart. Fishing boats unload sh and shellsh that couldnt be any fresher if you caught it yourself, many pubs are untouched since their earlier incarnations as old-fashioned shops, artists sell their creations (including beautiful jewellery with Irish designs) at intriguing boutiques, and toe-tapping trad sessions take place around roaring pub res. Slea Head, Dingle Peninsula, above
Yes, you can visit the country easily enough by car, but Ireland is best explored on foot, whether you opt for a gentle afternoon stroll along a canal towpath or take on the challenge of any of the 31 waymarked long-distance routes. There are coastal walks and mountain hikes; you can explore towns and villages along the way or steer clear of civilisation by traipsing along lonely moorland and across barren bogs. All youll need is a decent pair of boots and, inevitably, a rain jacket. Diamond Hill, Connemara National Park, below
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Soaring up from the green Tipperary pastures, this ancient fortress (p335) takes your breath away at rst sight. The seat of kings and churchmen who ruled over the region for more than a thousand years, it rivalled Tara as a centre of power in Ireland for 400 years. Entered through the 15th-century Hall of the Vicars Choral, its impervious walls guard an awesome enclosure with a complete round tower, a 13th-century Gothic cathedral and the most magnicent 12th-century Romanesque chapel in Ireland. Cathedral, Rock of Cashel, left
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Links Golf
If Scotland is the home of golf, then Ireland is where golf goes on holiday. And the best vacation spots are along the sea, where the countrys collection of seaside links are dotted in a steady string along virtually the entire Irish coastline, each more revealed than carved in the undulating, marram-grass-covered landscapes. Some of the worlds best-known courses share spectacular scenery with lesser-known gems, and each oers the golfer the opportunity to test their skills against the raw materials provided by Mother Nature.
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Cork City
SEAN CAFFREY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES RICHARD CUMMINS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES
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The Republics second city (p223) is second only in terms of size in every other respect it will bear no competition. A tidy, compact city centre is home to an enticing collection of art galleries, museums and most especially places to eat. From cheap cafes to top-end gourmet restaurants, Cork City excels, although its hardly a surprise given the countys exceptional foodie reputation. At the heart of it is the simply wonderful English Market, a covered produce market that is an attraction unto itself. St Fin Barres Cathedral and the River Lee, Cork City, left
Ring of Kerry
Driving around the Ring of Kerry (p284) is an unforgettable experience in itself, but you dont need to limit yourself to the main route. Along this 179km loop around the Iveragh Peninsula there are countless opportunities for detours. Near Killorglin, its a short hop up to the beautiful, littleknown Cromane Peninsula. Between Portmagee and Waterville, you can explore the Skellig Ring. The peninsulas interior oers mesmerising mountain views. And thats just for starters. Wherever your travels take you, remember to charge your camera!
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Kilkenny City
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From its regal castle to its soaring medieval cathedral, Kilkenny (p203) exudes a permanence and culture that have made it an unmissable stop on journeys to the south and west. Its namesake county boasts scores of artisans and craftspeople and you can browse their wares at Kilkennys classy shops and boutiques. Chefs eschew Dublin in order to be close to the source of Kilkennys wonderful produce and you can enjoy the local brewerys namesake brew at scores of delightful pubs. Houses along the River Nore, Kilkenny City, left
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DAMIAN TULLY/ALAMY
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No trip to Northern Ireland is complete without visiting the Republican and Loyalist murals (p584) of Belfasts Falls and Shankhill districts. But for an outsider, the citys bitterly divided society can be hard to get your head around. Without a local guide to provide some background and explanation, the murals can be just so much garish paint. Belfasts black taxi tours are justiably famous because they provide that context, with drivers who are both insightful and darkly humorous without making light of a serious and often tragic situation. Republican murals along Falls Rd, left
ISTOCK
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The Anglo-Normans left an indelible stamp on Ireland, best seen in the countrys collection of handsome homes and impressive castles, built to reect the power, glory and wealth of their respective owners. Although some have fallen into ruin, many have been meticulously maintained, including the superb country piles designed in the Georgian (or Palladian) style, found in pastoral settings around Dublin. Others have been converted from homes to luxury hotels and are memorable overnight experiences. Powerscourt Estate, County Wicklow, left
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It depends on whether youre in a football or hurling stronghold (some, like County Cork, are both) but attending a match of the countys chosen sport (p722) is not just a unique Irish experience but also a key to unlocking local passions and understanding one of the cultural pillars of Ireland. Whether you attend a club football match in County Galway or an intercounty hurling battle between old foes like Kilkenny and Tipperary, you cannot but be swept up in the emotion of it all. Galway v Tipperary Gaelic football match, left
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Derry/Londonderry
History runs deep in Northern Irelands second city (p635). The symbols of the countrys sectarian past are evident, from the 17th-century city walls built to protect Protestant settlers, to the bipartite Republican/Loyalist name, Derry/Londonderry. But the new bridge that spans the River Foyle provides another symbol of an attempt to bridge that divide and to look to the future as a city lled with a restless creative energy, expressed in its powerful murals, vibrant music scene and numerous art galleries, and now nominated as UK City of Culture 2013. Maurice Harrons Hands Across the Divide Peace Monument, Derry/Londonderry, below
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Clare Coast
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Bathed in the golden glow of the late afternoon sun, the iconic Clis of Moher (p368) are but one of the splendours of County Clare. From a boat bobbing below, the towering stone faces have a jaw-dropping dramatic beauty thats enlivened by scores of sea birds, including cute little puns. Down south in Loop Head, pillars of rock towering above the sea have abandoned stone cottages whose very existence is inexplicable. All along the coast are cute little villages like trad-session-lled Ennistymon and the surfer mecca of Lahinch. Clis of Moher, the Burren, above
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Everyone needs a helping hand when they visit a country for the first time. There are phrases to learn, customs to get used to and etiquette to understand. The following section will help demystify Ireland so your first trip goes as smoothly as your fifth.
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Quality rather than quantity should be your goal: instead of a hair-raising race to see everything, pick a handful of destinations and give yourself time to linger. The most memorable experiences in Ireland are often the ones where youre doing very little at all. If youre driving, get off the main roads when you can: some of the countrys most stunning scenery is best enjoyed on secondary or tertiary roads that wind their narrow way through standout photo ops. Make the effort to greet the locals: the best experiences of Ireland are to be had courtesy of the Irish themselves, whose helpfulness, friendliness and fun has not been overexaggerated.
What to Pack
Good walking shoes, as Ireland is best appreciated on foot Raincoat you will undoubtedly need it UK/Ireland electrical adapter A finely honed sense of humour A hollow leg all that beer has to go somewhere
Checklist
Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months past your arrival date Make all necessary bookings (for accommodation, events and travel) Check the airline baggage restrictions Inform your debit-/ credit-card company Arrange for appropriate travel insurance (see p729) Check if you can use your mobile/cell phone (p731)
Etiquette
Although largely informal in their everyday dealings, the Irish do observe some (unspoken) rules of etiquette.
Greetings Shake hands with men, women and children when meeting for the first time and when saying goodbye. Irish expect a firm handshake with eye contact. Female friends are greeted with a single (air) kiss. Conversation Generally friendly but often reserved, the Irish avoid conversations that might embarrass. They are deeply mistrustful of oversharers. Language The Irish speak English quickly and strong accents can often be indecipherable. Dont take offence at indiscriminate bad language; many Irish unconsciously pepper their speech with curse words, which are intended only to be emphatic. Round System The Irish generally take it in turns to buy a round of drinks for the whole group and everyone is expected to take part. The next round should always be bought before the first round is drunk.
Tipping
Hotels One euro per bag is standard; gratuity for cleaning staff completely at your discretion. Pubs Not expected unless table service is provided, then 1/1 for a round of drinks. Restaurants For decent service 10%, up to 15% in more expensive places. Taxis Tip 10% of fare, or rounded up to nearest euro/pound. Toilet Attendants Only loose change, no more than 50c/50p.
Booking Ahead
If youre planning to visit in the high season, the sooner you book your accommodation the better up to two months in advance for Irish-themed MP3 a July visit. Activities should also be booked now cooking courses, playlist organised tours, etc. A month before you travel book your hire car and reserve a table in whatever top-end restaurant you plan to dine in. Now is also the time to make theatre reservations, especially for new productions. Two weeks before you arrive, check attraction opening hours and prices. A week before, get the weather forecast. Then ignore it.
What to Wear
Ireland is a fairly casual destination and you can wear pretty much whatever you like all the time. For fancy dinners, smart casual is all thats required no restaurant will insist on jackets or ties, as wont any theatre or concert hall. Irelands youth have become far more comfortable with their bodies than the generations that preceded them, so summer wear has seen hemlines rise and necklines plunge. Summers, however, are warm but rarely hot, so youll always want something around your legs and shoulders when the inevitable cool sets in. In the end, the factor that will determine your outts the most is the weather, which also means that a light, waterproof jacket should always be close at hand, preferably one that you can fold and keep in a shoulder bag.
Money
ATMs can generally be found throughout Ireland; even in the smallest villages chances are a shop will have one. All ATMs are linked to the main international money systems, so you should have no issue withdrawing money with your banks own card but be sure to check with your bank before you travel. Credit and debit cards can be used almost everywhere except for some rural B&Bs that only accept cash. Make sure bars or restaurants will accept cards before you order some dont. The most popular cards are Visa and MasterCard; American Express is only accepted by the major chains, and virtually no one will accept Diners or JCB. Chip-andPIN is the norm for card transactions only a few places will accept a signature. If you dont want to rely on plastic, banks, post oces and some of the larger hotels will change cash and travellers cheques.
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Literary Corners
Four Nobel laureates for literature are just the highlight of a rich literary tradition. Ireland is one of the English-speaking worlds most notable heavyweights of the written word, a tradition that continues to thrive through contemporary writers and literary festivals.
Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival The storytelling tradition is kept alive by tales tall and long from all over the world (p256) Cirt International Festival of Literature Galway attracts writers from all over the world to its April literary showcase (p395) Dublin Literary Tours No city of comparable size has been more written about or produced as many great authors as the capital, so take one of its many literary tours to nd out more (p94) Listowel Writers Week The Irish literary festival, held in June in the hometown of John B Keane (p317)
Traditional Pubs
Everybodys got their favourite, so picking the best ones is a futile exercise. What can be done, however, is to select a handful that wont disappoint you, especially if youre looking for a traditional pub in the classic mould.
Blakes of the Hollow, Enniskillen Ulsters best pint of Guinness in a Victorian classic (p676) John Bennys, Dingle Stone slab oor, memorabilia on the walls and rocking trad sessions most nights (p306) McCarthys, Fethard A pub, restaurant and undertakers, all in one (p342) Morrisseys, Abbeyleix Halfpub, half-shop, its one of the best drinking establishments on the whole island (p502) Shan Ua Nechtain, Galway One of Irelands best-known traditional pubs (p393) Stags Head, Dublin Beloved by students, auteurs and boozers alike, a Victorian classic with beautiful stained-glass windows (p113) Vaughans Pub, Kilfenora Superb bar with outstanding reputation for traditional music (p376)
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If you likehang-gliding and paragliding, some of the finest airwaves can be found at Mt Leinster (p181) in Carlow, the Great Sugarloaf Mountain (p152) in Wicklow and Benone and Magilligan Beaches (p650) in Derry.
PL AN YOUR TRIP I F YO U L I K E
PL AN YOUR TRIP I F YO U L I K E
Great Views
Irish scenery is among the most spectacular in Europe, with breathtaking views and stunning landscapes throughout the whole country. There are the famous spots, of course, but theyre not alone.
Binevenagh Lake Spectacular view over Lough Foyle, Donegal and the Sperrin Mountains from the cli top at the height of the Bishops Rd (p650) Clew Bay The 365 islands of this County Mayo bay are best viewed from the top of Croagh Patrick (p432) Kilkee Clis Jaw-dropping views of soaring clis that arent the Clis of Moher (p364) Scarri Inn Stunning views of Kenmare Bay and Bantry Bay from the windows of this Kerry restaurant (p294) Poisoned Glen The views down this Donegal valley are breathtaking; the nal touch is the ruined church at the foot of the glen (p480)
A Good Walk
From afternoon ambles to week-long hikes, Ireland oers plenty of opportunities to stretch your legs. You dont have to follow a waymarked way, but there are 31 of them in the country should you prefer a signposted hike.
Ardmore Cli Walk Marvellous 5km walk from an ancient Christian well across sea clis to Ardmore town (p195) Burren Way Any portion of this 123km marked way is rewarding (p370) Causeway Coast Way The best section is the 16.5km hike between Carrick-a-Rede and the Giants Causeway (p662) Doolough Valley History and scenery combine on this route between Leenane and Westport (p430) River Barrow Towpath A beautiful path along the Barrow between Graiguenamanagh in County Kilkenny and St Mullins in County Carlow (p201) Ross Castle A 3km stroll through Killarney National Park (p279)
Traditional Music
Western Europes most vibrant folk music is kept alive by musicians who ply their craft (and are plied with drink) in impromptu and organised sessions in pubs and music houses throughout the country; even the strictly for tourists stu will feature excellent performances.
An Droichead Excellent music sessions at an arts centre dedicated to Irish culture (p599) Leos Tavern Live nightly sessions in summer in a pub owned by Enyas parents (p480) Matt Molloys The Chieftains fe player owns this pub where the live cilidh (session of traditional music and dancing) kick o at 9pm nightly (p436) Miltown Malbay Every pub in this County Clare town features outstanding Irish trad sessions (p365) Tig Cil Galways best trad sessions in the pub whose name means house of music (p393) Marine Bar Wonderful music nightly during summer months at this 200-year-old pub (p193)
Ancient Ruins
Thanks to the pre-Celts, Celts and early Christians, ancient and monastic sites are a feature of the Irish landscape. Thanks to the Vikings and Henry VIII, many of these are ruins, but no less impressive.
Askeaton Evocative 14thcentury ruins of a castle, monastery and a church (p330) Br na Binne Europes most impressive Neolithic burial site (p534) Carrowkeel Megalithic cemetery and majestic views (p453) Clonmacnoise Irelands nest monastic site (p509) Devenish Island Ruins of an Augustinian monastery and near-perfect round tower on the biggest island in Lough Erne (p679) Dn Aengus Stunning Stone Age fort perched perilously on Inishmrs clis (p400) Glendalough Ruins of a oncepowerful monastic city in stunning surroundings (p142)
Bookshops
Irelands long and wonderful relationship with the written word has resulted in some marvellously atmospheric bookshops where you can while away an hour or three and perhaps even pick up a rare copy of your favourite Irish book.
An Caf Litertha This specialist bookstore sells Irish-interest books and theres an idyllic little caf at the back; settle in with a book and a scone (p306). An Cl Ceart Irish-language books, traditional music and other examples of ne Irish culture, including woodwork and other crafts (p647) Cathach Books Dublins best second-hand bookstore specialises in Irish-interest books and some outstanding rst editions, including ones by Irelands literary giants (p123) Charlie Byrnes Rambling rooms hold a treasure trove of new, second-hand and hard-tond books (p394)
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month by month
February
Bad weather makes February the perfect month for indoor activities. Some museums launch new exhibits, and its a good time to visit the major towns and cities.
Top Events
St Patricks Day, March Galway Arts Festival, July Willie Clancy Summer School, July File An Phobail, August All-Ireland Finals, September
outdoor sporting event; 150,000-plus people line the triangular route to cheer on some of the biggest names in motorcycle racing. Held in mid-May.
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3 Fleadh Nua
The third week of May sees the cream of the traditional music crop come to Ennis, County Clare, for one of the countrys most important festivals (www. comhaltas.ie).
PL AN YOUR TRIP M O N T H B Y M O N T H
the parade (attended by 600,000), with gigs and festivities that leave the city with a giant hangover.
Championships
June
The bank holiday at the beginning of the month sees the country spoilt for choice as to what to do. Weekend traffic is getting busier, the weather gets better.
April
The weather is getting better, the flowers are beginning to bloom and the festival season begins anew. Seasonal attractions start to open up around the middle of the month or at Easter.
3 Cat Laughs
Sponsored by Jameson, the islands biggest lm festival (www.jdi.com) runs during the last two weeks of February, oering a mix of local icks, arty international lms and advance releases of mainstream movies.
May
The May Bank Holiday (on the first Monday) sees the first of the busy summer weekends as the Irish take to the roads to enjoy the budding good weather.
March
Spring is in the air, and the whole country is getting ready for arguably the worlds most famous parade. Dublins is the biggest, but every town in Ireland holds one.
Northern Irelands most prestigious rally race known locally as the Circuit (www.circuitoreland. net) sees over 130 competitors throttle and turn through some 550km (342 miles) of Northern Ireland and parts of the Republic over two days at Easter.
Kilkenny gets very, very funny in early June with the countrys premier comedy festival (www. thecatlaughs.com), which draws comedians both known and unknown from the four corners of the globe.
(above) Irish musician playing in a Doolin pub (below) St Patricks Day celebrations
3 Irish Derby
MUSTANG79/REAMSTIME.COM
z St Patricks Day
Ireland erupts into one giant celebration on 17 March (www.stpatricksday. ie), but Dublin throws a ve-day party around
Ireland loves horse racing, and the race they love the most is the Grand National (www.fairyhouse.ie), the showcase of the national hunt season that takes place at Fairyhouse in County Meath on Easter Monday.
One of Europes premier choral festivals (www. corkchoral.ie), with the winners going on to the Fleischmann International Trophy Competition; held over four days from the rst Monday of May.
Wallets are packed and fancy hats donned for the best at-race festival in the country (www.curragh. ie), run during the rst week of the month.
3 Bloomsday
Edwardian dress and breakfast of the inner organs of beast and fowl are but two of the elements of the Dublin festival celebrating 16 June, the day on which Joyces Ulysses takes place; the real highlight is retracing Leopold Blooms daily steps (p99).
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July
There isnt a weekend in the month that a major festival doesnt take place, while visitors to Galway will find that the city is in full swing for the entire month.
artists, this week-long extravaganza (www.killarney summerfest.com) in late July has something for everybody.
z Puck Fair
August
Schools are closed, the sun is shining (or not!) and Ireland is in holiday mood. Seaside towns and tourist centres are at their busiest as the country looks to make the most of its time off.
Irelands quirkiest premise for a festival: crown a goat king and celebrate for three days. Quirky idea, brilliant festival that takes place in Killorglin in midAugust (p285).
The second and fourth Sundays of the month see the nals of the hurling and Gaelic football championships respectively, with 80,000-plus crowds thronging into Dublins Croke Park for the biggest sporting days of the year.
3 All-Ireland Finals
new versions of old work staged in theatres and venues throughout the capital.
from all over the world for the second half of the month; on oer is everything from visual arts to dance.
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z Rose of Tralee
File An Phobail
Music, drama and a host of artistic endeavours are on the menu at the most important arts festival in the country, which sees Galway go merriment mad for the last two weeks of the month (p395).
The name translates simply as the peoples festival and it is just that: Europes largest community arts festival takes place on the Falls Rd in West Belfast over two weeks (p589).
The Irish beauty pageant (www.roseoftralee. ie) sees wannabe Roses plucked from Irish communities throughout the world competing for the ultimate prize. For everyone else, its a big party (p313).
October
The weather starts to turn cold, so its time to move the fun indoors again. The calendar is still packed with activities and distractions, especially over the last weekend of the month.
Opera fans gather in the atmospheric grounds of Johnstown Castle to enjoy Irelands premier festival of opera (www.wexfordopera. com), which eschews the big hits in favour of lesserknown works (p170).
December
Christmas dominates the calendar as the country prepares for the feast with frenzied shopping and after-work drinks with friends and family arrived home from abroad. On Christmas Day nothing is open.
PL AN YOUR TRIP M O N T H B Y M O N T H
PL AN YOUR TRIP M O N T H B Y M O N T H
September
Summer may be over, but September weather can be surprisingly good, so its often the ideal time to enjoy the last vestiges of the sun as the crowds dwindle.
Irelands best-known jazz festival (www.corkjazz festival.com) sees Cork taken over by over a thousand musicians and their multitude of fans during the last weekend of the month.
z Christmas
Irish and international releases make up the program at one of the countrys premier lm festivals, held in early July (p395).
The mother of all Irish music festivals (www.comhaltas. ie; usually at the end of the month) attracts in excess of 250,000 music-lovers and revellers to whichever town is playing host theres some great music amid the drinking.
This is a quiet affair in the countryside, though on 26 December (St Stephens Day) the ancient custom of Wren Boys is re-enacted, most notably in Dingle, County Kerry, when groups of children dress up and go about singing hymns.
Oyster Festival
5 Galway International
Galway kicks o its oyster season with a festival (www. galwayoysterfest.com) celebrating the local catch. Music and beer have been the accompaniment since its inception in 1953.
Irelands answer to Glastonbury is a three-day supergig (www.oxegen.ie) in mid-July at Punchestown Racecourse in County Kildare, featuring some of the big names in rock and pop (p97).
Oxegen
The biggest horse-racing festival west of the Shannon is not just about the horses, its also a celebration of Irish culture, sporting gambles and elaborate hats (p395).
z Killarney Summerfest
Irelands second-most important beauty pageant takes place in Dungloe, County Donegal, at the beginning of the month although its an excuse for a giant party, the young
Upwards of 100 dierent performances take the stage, the street, the bar and the car in the fringe festival (www.fringefest.com) that is unquestionably more innovative than the main theatre festival that follows it.
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Doolin
Irish Sea
# Blasket Islands
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Galway
Cliffs of # Moher
Ring of Kerry
One Week
Ireland Highlights
This tourist trail takes you past some of Irelands most famous attractions and through spectacular countryside. Its only about 300km so you could manage it in three days, but whats the point? Start with a whistle-stop tour of Dublin, including visits to Trinity College and the Book of Kells as well as a sample of Guinness in its hometown. The next day, head west to Galway, from which you should take a drive through stunning, brooding Connemara (which can be driven in a nice loop) before heading southward through the moonlike landscape of the Burren. Take a detour to the Clis of Moher, then head to Ennis, a good spot to enjoy a bit of traditional Irish music. Keep going south through the Connor Pass into County Kerry, stopping for a half-day in Dingle before setting out to visit its peninsula, particularly the views and prehistoric monuments of Slea Head. Continue on to Killarney, which will be the perfect base from which to explore the famous Ring of Kerry, a much-tracked loop around the Iveragh Peninsula. The drive back to Dublin should provide enough time to plan your return visit.
Connor Pass
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# Killarney
AT L A N T I C OCEAN
The Burren
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Ennis
# # Skellig Michael
# DUBLIN _
Beara Peninsula
# Clear Island
Three Weeks
The Islands
St George's Channel
AT L A N T I C OCEAN
Start at the remote, Irish-speaking Tory Island in Donegal, a wonderful bird-watching spot. Joined to the mainland by a bridge, Achill Island, in County Mayo, is renowned for its dramatic clis, water sports and deserted famine village. O the coast of Galway, the three Aran Islands are probably Irelands most visited. The largest, Inishmr, has some ne archaeological remains, including the magical fort of Dn Aengus. The middle island, Inishmaan, favourite of the writer JM Synge, is a pleasure to walk around, with its stone walls and tiny elds. The smallest and least visited, Inisheer, best accessed from Doolin in County Clare, has some wonderful wild walks. Some other very special islands to visit are Europes most westerly. Uninhabited since 1953, the Blasket Islands, o the Kerry coast, oer the chance to spot puns, seals and porpoises. Skellig Michael, o Caherciveen in Kerry, is a Unesco World Heritage site and home to a 7th-century monastery its a breathtaking, spiritual place and a highlight of any trip to Ireland. Ornithologists and orators alike will enjoy Clear Island, o the western coast of Cork, famous for its Manx shearwaters and its lively Storytelling Festival in September.
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Kilkenny #
Whether youve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
# Sligo
Achill # Island
# Carrowkeel
Cork
Itineraries
Giant's Causeway
IRELAND
Three Weeks
Coastal Tour
Start in Dublin then head north to the Neolithic necropolis at Br Na Binne. Continue north to Mellifont Abbey before crossing the border into Northern Ireland and Belfast. Go northwest along the Antrim coast to the Giants Causeway. Continue around the coastline of north Donegal, stopping at Glenveagh National Park. Head south into Sligo and climb the Stone Age passage grave at Carrowkeel for views of Lough Arrow. Make your way to the southwest via Connemara. Wonder at the Burren and check out traditional music in Doolin before crossing into County Kerry and exploring the Dingle Peninsula. Go through Killarney on your way round the Ring of Kerry. Camp in Kenmare and explore the Beara Peninsula, then Irelands second city, Cork. Explore County Waterford from seaside Ardmore. Visit Dungarvan and its castle, and the Waterford Museum of Treasures in Waterford. Go northwards through Thomastown and to St Canices Cathedral in Kilkenny before exploring the citys medieval core. Visit Castletown House in County Kildare, then cut east to Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains National Park. Head back to Dublin.
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# Tory Island #
SCOTLAND
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ENGLAND
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
WALES
St George's Channel
Dunfanaghy #
ATLANTIC OCEAN
# Glencolumbcille
# Slieve League
Westport # Irish Croagh Patrick R IRELAND Sea Leenane # # Kylemore Abbey # Connemara National Park # Roundstone # Clonmacnoise # Galway # Kinvara # Ballyvaughan # Aillwee Caves Kilkenny Thomastown
Cashel
Dingle Peninsula #
One Week
Two Weeks
Tip to Toe
Begin in Northern Irelands second city, Derry, by walking the city walls and exploring the Bogside neighbourhood. On day two, cross into County Donegal and explore the Inishowen Peninsula before spending the night in Dunfanaghy. As you move down Donegals coastline, check out the monastic ruins of Glencolumbcille and the sea clis at Slieve League. Cross into County Sligo and visit the Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery before checking in to your Sligo Town hotel. The next day, treat yourself to a round of golf at the County Sligo Golf Club at Rosses Point or a seaweed bath in Enniscrone. Youll skirt Connemaras eastern edge as you travel southward to Galway, from where you should strike out for Clonmacnoise. From here, move through the heart of the Midlands and head for another monastic gem, Cashel, in County Tipperary. Medieval Kilkenny is only an hour away. Visit the citys stunning castle before exploring nearby Thomastown and Jerpoint Abbey. Using Wexford Town as a base, explore Curracloe Beach and visit Enniscorthy and the excellent National 1798 Rebellion Centre. Or you could chill out and watch the shermen draw in their lines in Kilmore Quay.
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SCOTLAND
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NORTHERN IREAND
ENGLAND
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
WALES
Kilmore Quay
(above) Stone stairway leading to monastic settlement, Skellig Michael (p291) (left) Giants Causeway (p658), County Antrim
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Derry
# BELFAST _
# Lough Erne
Bushmills
Clonmacnoise Glendalough
#
Rock of # Cashel
# Jerpoint
Abbey
10 Days
One Week
Northern Delights
One of the many benets to a more peaceful Northern Ireland has been the ability of the province to showcase its outstanding visitor attractions and superb scenery. Start in Belfast, where you should take a black taxi tour and/or visit the docks on a boat tour, before heading north toward the Antrim coast and the Carricka-Rede Rope Bridge its a short but brave walk across the bridge but the views are worth it. Nearby is the Unesco World Heritage Giants Causeway that shouldnt be missed by any visitor to Northern Ireland and, just beyond it, the fascinating village of Bushmills, home to the famous distillery. Derry City is worth a day walk the citys walls and explore its more recent past in the Bogside and then cross the invisible border into the Republic by visiting the Inishowen Peninsula in Donegal. Back in the North, go southeast to Lough Erne, taking in both White Island and the carved stones of Devenish Island, before heading east to the famed Mourne Mountains, where you can hike along ancient smugglers trails or just admire the fabulous views before heading back to Belfast.
AT L A N T I C OCEAN
Cruachan i
#
Loughcrew
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
# Mourne