AUTOMATIC STREET LIGHT

Code:E121 Price(INR):5650.00/-
Here we introduces an intelligent power saving equipment,
an Automatic Street Light, that can be installed at stadium, public parks, road junctions, bus stands, railway stations
etc. Here the microcontroller captures data from LDR, IR sensor and PIR sensor to understand the situations and
provide exact control. It is a very good power saver it is turned ON at required time only after that it will be switched
OFF automatically.
An LDR is used here as the ambient light detector, if the light intensity of the place goes down, the two sets
of lights are switched ON. The first set of lighting are turned OFF automatically in the morning when LDR detects
sufficient light and can be placed at railway station, bus stand etc. The second set of the lightings are controlled by
the MCU for a predefined time period and after that it is turned OFF by the controller. An RTC is used to get a time
based operation for lamps. These lightings can be used for parks, gardens etc.
PIR sensor and IR sensor with LDR are used for the control of the third set of lightings. PIR, Passive Infra
Red sensor detects the live human body and IR sensor for detecting the person count. This light is activated i n DIM
mode when PIR detects the presence of human being as well as LDR detect darkness and it becomes in BRIGHT
mode when the number of passengers in the area is much high. When no change has been detected from the PIR
output, the MCU keeps the light in OFF state so that electrical energy should not be wasted when nobody is around.
The popular microcontroller PIC16F877A used here as MCU. RTC DS 1307 is used for time based
management of lights. An LCD display is used to display the status of the system. A control key pad is provided for
entering of preset time values and a switch is provided for manual operation.
http://www.invadetechnologies.com/project_more.php?id=121
Step 1: PART LIST:



HARDWARE:
I'll start of by giving you guys a part list. The box and the screws are not
necessary for this project, but I'll add them to the list.

PART LIST:
1x Prototyping board (Roughly 1" by 1") or bread board.
1x 9v Connector
1x LM324 Quad Op-Amp IC
1x LM78L05 Mini 5v Regulator
1x PIC10F222 Micro controller
1x Electret microphone
1x 5v Relay SPDT or SPST
1x 2N2222 NPN Transistor
2x 0.1uF Ceramic capacitors
1x 1N4001 Diode
1x 100k Ohm Multi-Turn Potentiometer
1x 100k Ohm 1/4W resistor
2x 10k Ohm 1/4W resistor
1x 3k Ohm 1/4W resistor
1x 7k Ohm 1/4W resistor
1x 1k Ohm 1/4W resistor
1x Project Box

Step 2: THE POWER SUPPLY



THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR:
This step is a short one. We're going to talk about the power supply circuit.
We only need a 9v battery to properly drive this circuit. We can use 7VDC and
up. The 78L05 5V regulator is used here because this is a low-power device,
and we need not use a big LM7805 when we have so little space to begin with.

The 78L05 has three pins:
1) 5V-Out
2) Ground
3) Voltage-In (7VDC+)

We need only a 0.1uf ceramic decoupling capacitor between the 5v-Out line, and
ground to rid the circuit of any unwanted high frequency interference that may
come along. However, since we are using a battery, this capacitor is really
optional. Good practice, more like. If you are using an AC-DC wall wart, it is
suggested you place a 100uf electrolytic capacitor between the Voltage-In pin,
and the ground line to protect against any surges on the line, and to smooth the
DC going in to the regulator.

Step 3: THE SIGNAL AMPLIFIER AND COMPARATOR



STAGE#1: The Microphone and the Amplifier
As you can see from the picture below, we have an electret microphone
connected to the ground line, and to one end of a 10k resistor. The other end of
the resistor is tied to the 5v line. when an audio sound is sensed by the
micrpphone, it changes that audio signal into a voltage that emulates the tone
picked up. We can use that noise, but first we have to condition it. To rid
ourselves of the DC component, we AC-couple the signal using a coupling
capacitor. This signal will be extremely small, so we must first amplify it. We are
going to do that using a handy-dandy LM324 quad op-amp IC. This chip has 4x
on-board op-amps. We are only going to use two of them. Go here for the data
sheet:http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM124.pdf

The pull-down resistor to the right of the coupling capacitor is necessary for the
operation of the non-inverting amplifier stage to work. In fact, all components in
the below diagram are crutial. The way a non-inverting op-amp works, is it takes
two values RA, which is the 1k resistor connected to the (-) input and ground,
and RF (100k potentiometer), which is the feedback resistor, which is connected
between the (-) input, and the output, and creates a voltage gain factor. The
voltage gain factor (AV) is a multiplier. Once we determine the AV, we multiply
the voltage at the input by the AV, and we have our output voltage. The 100k pot
is used to vary the voltage gain. This will either increase the sensitivity or
decrease the sensitivity of the circuit. The equation for AV = RF/RA in a non-
inverting amplifier circuit.

Example#1
RF = 100k
RA = 1k
Vin= 0.010v
AV = RF/RA
AV = 100
Vout = Vin * AV
Vout = 1v (Gain of 100)

Example2:
RF = 1k
RA = 1k
Vin= 0.010v
AV = RF/RA
AV = 1
Vout = Vin * AV
Vout = 0.010v (No gain)

STAGE#2 The Comparator:
The standarad MCU does not like to work with sine waves, or any odd shaped
wave. That is, unless you are using the ADC, which we are not. We want to turn
our now amplified waveform into a 0-5VDC square wave that can be used by the
PIC10F222. What are are going to emply here is the comparator circuit. A
comparator does exactly as you'd think. It compares voltages. If the voltage at
the (-) input is higher than the voltage at the (+) input, then the output will be
0v. If the voltage at the (+) input is higher than the voltage at the (-) input, then
the output will be 5v.

We have a resistor voltage divider network at the negative (-) input. This
will keep a constant 1.5v at the negative input. When a loud sound is generated
and amplified to a voltage higher than 1.5v, then the output will go from 0-5v until
the voltage at the (+) falls below 1.5v. We only need for the output of the
comparator to be high for a micro second or so, so don't worry too much about
the time duration of the output of the comparator being high.

You can change the resistor network around to make the reference voltage at
the negative input (-) higher or lower using this formula:

R1 is the resistor tied to the 5v line, while R2 is the resistor tied to ground.
V(-) = [VCC / (R1+R2)] *R2
V(-) = [5v / (7000+3000)] x 3000
V(-) = 1.5v


Step 4: THE BRAIN AND THE THE RELAY SWITCH



THE BRAIN (PIC10F222):
Ah the good ol' archiac PIC10F222. This chip has an on-board internal oscillator,
which exterminates any necessary external driving hardware, such as a crystal
oscllator. We really only need 5v, Ground, the output of the comparator, and an
I/O port dedicaated to controlling the driving of the relay. So we are only using 4
out of the 8 pins. Read the software section to see how the chip is interpretting
the comparator information, and how the algorithm is set up.

PIN-OUT:
Pin#2 = VCC (5v)
Pin#4 = GPIO,1 (Programmed as an input)
Pin#5 = GPIO,0 (Programmed as an output)
Pin#7 = Ground

The Relay Switch:
In order to drive our 5v relay using the output of a PIC, we have to set up a driver
circuit, which in this case is a simple NPN transistor, and a diode. The diode
does nothing to drive the relay, but it acts to protect the relay coil from
surges. Any coil such as this should always be protected by a diode. The
1N4004 is as good as any. The base of the transistor is protected by a 10k ohm
resistor. You want to make sure that you are using this, or else you will over-
drive your transistor. When GPIO,0 outputs 5v (high or set), then the base of the
NPN transistor is activated, allowing 5v to pass through the internal coil of the
relay, and thereby creating a magnetic field that toggles the internal
switch. When GPIO,0 is cleared (0v), then the transistor is deactivated, and the
path from 5v to ground along the coil stops dead. The magnetic flield then
collapses, and the relay swiitches back to default state. In other words, if you
used the configuation below, you have 5v at the common wiper of the SPDT
(Single pull double throw) relay. In default setting, the wiper is connected to the
NC (Normally connected) pin of the relay. when the relay is activated, the wiper
connects to the NO (Normally open) pin of the relay, and power is applied to the
LED. When the relay is deactivated, the wiper re-connects to the NC pin, and
the path from 5v to the LED is broken.


Step 5: SOFTWARE



THE PROGRAM:
I have done my best to comment out this program as best as I could. You should
be able to follow along. It is no masterpiece, but again, I was working with an
inferior instruction set. You can download the .ASM code and use it with your
PIC ICD2 programmer puck, as seen in the image. I am also happy to answer
any questions you may have relating to the software!

The ASM code can be downloaded
here:http://www.electroniclessons.com/10F222TMPO.ASM



********************************************************************************************
*
MAIN CODE 0x000
MOVWF OSCCAL ; update register with factory cal value


INITIALIZE
MOVLW B'0010' ; GPIO1=COMPARATOR IN - GPIO0-RELAY ACTIVATE
TRIS GPIO ; INITIALIZE
CLRF ADCON0 ; ADC DISABLE
CLRF GPIO ; CLEAR OUTPUTS
MOVLW B'00001000'
OPTION ; ENABLE GPIO2 AS A DIGITAL PORT

SCAN1:
BTFSS GPIO,1 ; CHECK TO SEE IF LOUD NOISE (CLAP IS DETECTED)
GOTO SCAN1 ; IF NOT, SCAN AGAIN (LOOP)
ENSURE:
BTFSC GPIO,1 ; HAS THE WAVEFORM GONE FROM HIGH TO LOW?
GOTO ENSURE ; IF NOT, CHECK AGAIN (LOOP). IF SO, GOTO NEXT
INSTRUCTION
CALL LOOP1 ; DELAY
COUNTDOWN: ; COUNTDOWN ROUTINE
MOVLW 0XFF ; LOAD REFERENCE VALUE
MOVWF TEMP5 ; LOAD TIMING REGISTER#1 WITH REFERENCE
VALUE ABOVE
MOVLW 0XFF ; LOAD REFERENCE VALUE
MOVWF TEMP6 ; LOAD TIMING REGISTER#2 WITH REFERENCE
VALUE
COUNTDOWN2: ; ACTUAL DOUNTDOWN ROUTINE
BTFSC GPIO,1 ; CHECK TO SEE IF LOUD NOISE IS APPARENT.
GOTO RELAYACTIVATE ; IF YES, ACTIVATE RELAY (TOGGLE)
DECFSZ TEMP5 ; IF NOT, DECREMENT COUNTER#1 IF REG=0,
SKIP NEXT STEP
GOTO COUNTDOWN2 ; GO BACK AND LOOK AGAIN FOR SECOND
LOUD NOISE
MOVLW 0XFF ; LOAD TIMING REGISTER#1 WITH FULL VALUE
AGAIN
MOVWF TEMP5 ; LOAD
DECFSZ TEMP6 ; DECREMENT T-REGISTER#2
GOTO COUNTDOWN2 ; IF TIMING REGISTER#2 IS NOT Z, DO SECOND
SCAN AGAIN
GOTO SCAN1 ; IF TIMING REGISTER#2 WAS 0, GO BACK TO
START

RELAYACTIVATE:
BSF GPIO,0 ; ACTIVATE RELAY
CALL LOOP1 ; SERIES OF 3 DELAYS
CALL LOOP1
CALL LOOP1
; THIS NEXT SEQUENCE IS JUST A MIMICK OF THE FIRST SEQUENCE,
ONLY WE ARE
; WAITING TO TOGGLE THE RELAY BACK TO ITS ORIGINAL POTISION.
; I HAVE ADDED IN A SHORT DELAY AT THE BEGINNING, DENOTED BY ***
SCAN2:
CALL LOOP1 ; *** SERIES OF 3 DELAYS
CALL LOOP1
CALL LOOP1
BTFSS GPIO,1
GOTO SCAN2
ENSURE2:
BTFSC GPIO,1
GOTO ENSURE2
CALL LOOP1
COUNTDOWN3:
MOVLW 0XFF
MOVWF TEMP5
MOVLW 0XFF
MOVWF TEMP6
COUNTDOWN4:
BTFSC GPIO,1
GOTO RELAYDEACTIVATE
DECFSZ TEMP5
GOTO COUNTDOWN4
MOVLW 0XFF
MOVWF TEMP5
DECFSZ TEMP6
GOTO COUNTDOWN4
GOTO SCAN2

RELAYDEACTIVATE:
BCF GPIO,0 ; DEACTIVATE RELAY
RESET ; RESET PROGRAM

LOOP1:
;THE LOOP ROUTINE WORKS LIKE THIS. WE LOAD TIMING REGISTER
TEMP1/2 WITH 8-BIT
VALUES, AND IT WORKS TO ESSENTIALLY COUNT DOWN THE FIRST
REGISTER, AND
WHEN THE FIRST REGISTER IS 0, THE PROGRAM DECREMENTS THE
SECOND TIMING REGISTER (TEMP2). AT THIS POINT, THIS KEEPS ON
DOING THE SAME THING UNTIL TEMP2 REGISTER VALUE = 0, AT WHICH
POINT, THE DELAY ENDS, AND WE GO BACK TO THE PROGRAM.
MOVLW 0X00
MOVWF TEMP1
MOVLW 0XF0
MOVWF TEMP2

LOOP2:
DECFSZ TEMP1
GOTO LOOP2
DECFSZ TEMP2
GOTO LOOP2
RETURN
Step 6: THE CONCLUSIONS!



THE CONCLUSIONS:
I didn't think that this project would be so simple, but I ended up designing it as I
built it. The hardware took about two to three hours, and the software took less
than an hour. Some slight modificaitons had to be made along the way, but over
all, the entire project was put together in one night. If I had a more recent PIC to
work with, the program would have been MUCH more efficient. However, the
program works perfectly.

I've build clap-on, clap-off circuits before, but never one like this. I hope that if
you liked it, you'll vote for it = )

DON'T WANT TO USE SOFTWARE?
Try this on for size. Create the exact same power supply circuit (You can use a
7805 if you want), the same microphone circuit, and the same
amplifier/comparator circuit. Buy a 555 timer, and a TTL JK flip flop such as the
74LS76 or the 74LS109A (My favorite).

1) Configure the 555 timer as a monostable multivibrator with a delay of about
100-500ms.

2) Configure the JK flip-flop so that is works in toggle mode.

3) Place a POR (POWER-ON-RESET) on the flip-flop IC so that it will start in a
known state.
If you don't know about POR circuits, google one. It is a circuit that essentially
clears a digital device for a short period on power on, so that the output will start
in a known state. Sometimes, decoupling caps don't do the trick, and the start-up
spike on power-on will mess with the chip function.

4) The signal coming from the comparator will be a square wave, but it will be a
frequency, rather than straight DC. We need to turn this square frequency
10101010101 into a single pulse 01111111110. This is done using a monstable
multivibrator. A 555 timer will do, and the data sheet will show you how. The
monostable circuit, when triggered will offer a single pulse. This single pulse will
be ideal for acting as a trigger to toggle our JK flip-flop. It will require a timing RC
network, comprised of a single resistor and single capacitor.

5) If you don't know about JK flip-flops, they can be configured to act many
different ways, You have to set it up into toggle mode. This can be done by
looking at the data sheet. It will show you a configuration set-up for toggle
mode. it doesn't require any external hardware, except some wires.

The single pulse from the monostable will trigger the flip-flop, which will act
to toggle it's output. The output can be connected to a relay driver exactly like
the one seen in STEP#4. That is a single clap-on, single clap-off circuit. If you
have any questions, I am happy to help..
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Clap-Clap-on-Clap-Clap-Off-switch-/