Desert Magazine 1978 April

PRIL, 1978 $1.
0i
.GAZINE OF THE SOUTHWEST

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WESTERN ART
NOTES PRINTS
MAPS GOLD PANS
GREETING CARDS
AND
A LARGE
ASSORTMENT OF 4
CURRENT AND
OLD BACK ISSUES
MAGAZINE BOOK SHOP

74-425 Highway 111 at Deep Canyon Road Palm Desert, California
WILLIAM and JOY KNYVETT
Co-Publishers/ Editors
GEORGE BRAGA, Art Director

SHARLENE KNYVETT, Art Department
MARY FRANCES STRONG, Field Trip Editor
K L. BOYNTON, Naturalist
IV ARVEL BARRETT, Circulation Manager
Color Separations by
Henry Color Service Volume 41, Number 4 APRIL 1978
Lithographed by
\A olfer Printing Company, Inc.
Available in Microfilm by
Xerox University Microfilms
CONTENTS
F E A TU RES
WILLOW HOLE OASIS-AN ALMOST PARKSITE 8 6/7/ Jennings
THE MYSTERIOUS WALLS OF THE GRAND CANYON 12 Roger Mitchell
CEDAR BREAKS AND THE BRIANHEAD AGATE 16 Mary Frances Strong
WONDERS OF DEATH VALLEY 20 Chuck Gebhardt
NEW WESTERN ARTIST-NORBERTO REYES 24 Dave Wetterberg
HE DREAMED OF TRAILS UNTRAMMELED 28 Jean Crowl
MONITOR'S MORNING STAR LOOP 32 Betty Shannon
THE COVER: RESCUE BY PINE NUTS 36 Ronald M. Lanner

Diamatic photo of Scotty's
C; stle, in Death Valley,
C; I if., through the huge PALM WASH 40 Dick Bloomquist
wi ought iron gates. Photo
b\ George Service, Palm
Desert, California. See re-
laied article on Page 20.
D E P A R T M E N T S
A PEEK IN THE PUBLISHER'S POKE 4 William Knyvett
NEW BOOKS FOR DESERT READERS 6 Book Reviews
TRADING POST 42 Classified Listings
BOOKS OF THE WEST 44 Mail Order Items
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 46 Readers'Comments
CALENDAR OF WESTERN EVENTS 46 Club Activities
EDITORIAL, CIRCULATION AND ADVERTISING OFFICES: 74-425 old addresses with zip codes. DESERT Magazine is published monthly.
Hiohway 111, P. 0. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260. Telephone Second class postage paid at Palm Desert, California and at additional
Ari a Code 714 346-8144. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: United States and pos- mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Contents copyrighted 1978 by
sessions; 1 year, $7.00; 2 years, $13.00; 3 years, $19.00. All other countries DESERT Magazine and permission to reproduce any or all contents must
ade $2.00 U. S. currency for each year. See Subscription Order Form in be secured in writing. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs will not be
thh. issue. Allow five weeks for change of address and send both new and returned unless accompanied by self-addressed, stamped envelope.
Desert/ April 1978
BACK ISSUE
BARGAINS! in the WwdERER
ODDS AND ENDS
Miscellaneous Copies
publisher's iTmps
from 1959 to 1965
Package of 10
yoke
$900 • AST MONTH I mentioned briefly the
J anticipated wildflower display that
I J the winter rains could produce, and
many of our readers asked just what
No selections available areas might be best to visit. A phone call
to the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
VOLUMES FOR YEARS headquarters, in Borrego Springs, Cali- By Slim Barnard
1966*1969*1974 fornia, revealed that they are prepared Ihe tours by the Happy Wandereis con-
tain excellent maps, mileage, history
for a spectacular wildflower explosion of the areas, costs of gasoline consump-
11 issues only which could peak from mid-March to tion, lodging meals, what to wear and
the best time of the year to make the
well into April. trips. A family can plan their trip and
$A00 Two other popular California areas ex-

pecting a rainbow of colors are the Lan-
caster-Palmdale area (being of a higher
determine the exact amount of time and
money required.
Volume Number One covers 52 tours
throughout California's deserts, moun-
elevation, the blooming period will be tains, lakes and seashores. In Volume
later than the lower desert), and Death Number Two, Slim and Henrietta explore
Arizona, Nevada and Old Mexico,, with
Valley. the areas ranging from modern resorts
to ghost towns.
Over in Arizona, the pattern is repeat-
COMPLETE VOLUMES ing itself with Organ Pipe National Mon- When ordering BE SURE to state Volume
One or Volume Two. Both books are large
FOR YEARS ument reporting a massive carpet of format, heavy paperback with 150 pages.
greenery and buds.
1967*1968*1970 A call to the Chamber of Commerce in
S2.95 each
Please add 50c for postage/handling
1971 • 1972* 1973 the area you wish to visit, or Park Head-
Calif, residents add 6% sales tax
and 1975 quarters will assure you of being at the
right spot at the right time. Order from
EACH
ONLY S C O O But color in the Southwest is not limit-
ed to flowers. Take Southern Utah, for
Magazine Book Shop
P. O Box 1318, Palm Desert, Calif 92260
example, and Cedar Breaks National
Monument in particular. Mary Frances
Strong visited this spectacular area last
Lowest Photo Print Prices
fall and found a locale for agate as a Highest Quality
COMPLETE bonus! Jerry Strong captured it on film KODACOLOR FILM
1976 VOLUME for this issue so. we could all enjoy its
DEVELOPED & PRINTED
Standard 12 Jumbo Prints 2.18
beauty. Standard 12 Jumbo Prints and
ONLY And how about that colorful character New Roll of KODACOLOR 3.34
portrayed in the work of Norberto Reyes Kodacolor Neg. Standard reprints 15
$C00 this month. Norberto is a member of the

American Indian & Cowboy Artists Soci-
ety and we are proud to feature him in
SEND FOR PRICE SHEETS
& ENVELOPES. All Photo
Prices are Comparably low
No gimmicks.
DESERT Magazine. Be sure to make a No lies.
note to attend the American Indian & More than 50 years of con-
tinuous photo service guar-
Cowboy Artists Western Art Exhibit anc antees your quality and our
Send check or money order to Sale in San Dimas, California on April integrity.
DESERT MAGAZINE 28, 29 and 30. Sponsored by the Cham- MARKET BASKET PHOTO CO. D.
P. 0. Box 1318 ber of Commerce, it is a " m u s t " show P. O. Box 370, Yuma, Arizona 85364 or
for lovers of fine Western Art. • P. O. Box 2830, San Diego, Calif. 92112
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
Desert/April 1978
GaptttitaSunshitie
A marvelous new book about
John W. Hilton
"The Dean of American Desert Painters"
by
Katherine Ainsworth
Just one of the many beautifully reproduced Hilton paintings included in the book.
The Man Who Captured Sunshine is a biography of a The author, Katherine Ainsworth, makes no apology for the
remarkable, modern day, Renaissance Man — John W. Hilton. "lack of objectivity" in writing this book... she has been a friend
Though John Hilton is best known as the "Dean of American and admirer of John Hilton for over thirty years. Katie's late
Desert Painters," he is also a distinguished botanist, gemologist, husband, Ed Ainsworth, was John Hilton's best friend for almost
and zoologist. Hilton also is a noted writer and linguist, a guitarist as many years. This "labor of love" has resulted in a magnificent
and singer. book about a magnificent man.
The Man Who Captured Sunshine is inspirational... a

TO PLACE ORDER:
book which inspires one to overcome adversity, to achieve
Please send check or money order ($12.95 per copy)
excellence, to strive for a genuine joy of living. The reader will cry,
but more often will find himself/herself enjoying the pleasure of DESERT MAGAZINE BOOK SHOP
hearty laughter, of grand adventure. The significance of this book, P.O. Box 1318
above all else, lies in an impelling force which inspires the reader Palm Desert, California 92260
to live a fuller, more meaningful, more joyous life... to be a doer, a California residents add 6% sales tax, and please enclose
creator, a giver. 50C for postage and handling.
«5 AN ETC PUBLICATION
finally recognition through the help of reports of these excavations, written by
*Books Nellie Coffman is vividly described.

An " u n t o l d " side of General George
Patton is also revealed in the account of
Mr. Barnett, have all been published by
the Museum of Northern Arizona, Flag-
staff. The artifacts recovered became the
for his friendship with Patton. Hilton was

largely responsible for the selection of
bases for the Indians' style of life, as did
the recorded history of the early Spanish
Desert the WWII training grounds near Indio

where Patton trained his forces for the
invasion of North Africa. John, at great
chroniclers when they arrived in the
Southwest. So the locale, the way of life,
their artifacts, are all factual—only the
Traders personal sacrifice, supplied our nation

with calcite used in precision gun sights
during the war.
characters are fictitious during this
period of the mid-1200s. It could be
called a love story. You might think of it
Readers will vicariously experience as an adventure story. Love, hate, trust,
grand adventures with Hilton and his distrust, bravery, fear—all are found in
All books reviewed are available this fast moving story which makes fas-
through the Desert Magazine Book friends in California and Mexico. An
Shop. Please add 50c per total intimate glimpse into the lives of cele- cinating reading amid an authentic set-
order for handling and California ting for a hunter living during this time
residents must include 6% state brities and his life with his cherished
sales tax. wife, Barbara, are told. You will roar when life was cruel, hard and basic.
with laughter at tales of a mummified In- There has been much interest among
dian, a magnetic rock, giant sloths, and educators in the Southwest to make
of roisterous pranks and "mistake Burn- "Crooked Arrow" a textbook in high
• ings." In short, you will thrill to the school and college level classes in an-
grand adventure of a man who really thropology—an easy, clear, delightful,
knows how to live life to the fullest. factual way of exploring and learning
If the fine story telling is not enough, Southwestern archaeology in a new way.
eight of Hilton's finest paintings, repro- Paperback, 152 pages, $4.95.
duced in full color in this book, should
be. Highly recommended reading!
Hardcover, 274 pages, $12.95.
THE M A N W H O
C A P T U R E D SUNSHINE crooked
arrow
If"
By Katherine Ainsworth
Foreword by James Cagney
If you want to read a book that is so en-

tertaining you will not be able to put it HOUSE IN THE SUN
down, then Katherine Ainsworth's "The
Man Who Captured Sunshine" is the By George Olin
answer. It is the engaging biography of THE CROOKED ARROW
John W. Hilton, one of America's fore- By Franklin Barnett Knowledgeable desert devotees know
most desert artists and a man of many
the byline "By George O l i n " insures
accomplishments. In addition to his ar- Civil engineer, Army officer, writer, high quality, accuracy and readability in
tistic talents, he is an accomplished bot- archaeologist are all part of what makes any volume. His previous works covered
anist, gemologist, musicologist and up the life of Franklin Barnett. No mammals of the desert region and gen-
linguist. stranger to Desert readers, Mr. Barnett eral interest knowledge about life in the
Hilton's adventures began early in his authored " D i c t i o n a r y of Prehistoric desert mountains and mesas.
life in China with his missionary parents. Indian Artifacts of the American South- As his earlier efforts, "House in the
There, John began to paint with a west," which has been invaluable since Sun," is distinguished by outstanding
Chinese master. He saw his father 1973 to archaeologists and historians of color photography, most of it from his
nearly killed by a Chinese bandit, and the Southwest, as well as a textbook in own camera.
later saw his father kill a tiger which was many colleges and universities. This book attempts, successfully, to
terrorizing the village where he and his All of the author's experiences and describe the peculiarities of desert life,
family lived. professions came into play with his latest plant and animal, particularly in the so-
Hilton's experiences in the gem book, a factual novel of a prehistoric In- called Sonoran Desert, which covers
business, his close association with the dian hunter of the Southwest. The book, most of the southeastern California,
Pala and Cahuilla Indians, his struggle "Crooked Arrow," is based on three much of Arizona and the Mexican states
as an artist during the Depression, and ruins which the author excavated. The of Sonora and two Baja California-
Desert/ April 1978

Norte and Sur. Olin tells the reader what These two well-packed paperbacks are cellent Norton Allen maps from the back
is distinctive about the Sonoran and what filled with her own photographs, many of issues of Desert Magazine, and the
de;ert characteristics it shares with the them now irreplaceable because their volume is dedicated to the late Randall
other great North American arid zones. subjects, both human and material are Henderson, whom Miss Murbarger re-
'House in the Sun" doesn't explore long gone. calls as the "dean of desert publishers,"
new ground, but rather attempts to ex- "Ghosts of the Adobe Walls" is a col- whose interest and support helped her
plain to the average reader what desert lection of vignettes gleaned during Miss get started.
is all about. Significantly, Olin credits Murbarger's repeated visits to old If, as the writer of this report, you
another desert naturalist with his own in- ranching and mining communities in have to choose between these two fine
sp ration, namely Dr. Edmund C. Jaeger Arizona. For the unitiated, she has head- reprints for your library, you'll be hard
of Riverside, California, who by now at ed each chapter with a small place map put to make an intelligent decision, but
th<; age of 91 ranks as the dean of all showing the location of the sites she is the price is right, so maybe you can buy
de;ert writers. writing about. That's a real help. both, one this month and the other, next
Naturally, because of his own long- "Ghosts" was first published in 1964 time. In either case, which ever one you
t i n e connection with Organ Pipe Nation- and the original, expensive hard cover add to your collection will give you thou-
al Monument in southern Arizona, Olin edition has long been out of print. sands of hours of enjoyable reading,
tends to concentrate his pictures and text This book is an authority in many di- and, if you are more than an armchair
on Arizona areas, but those interested in verse areas, including the famed Colo- type, will lead you into countless byways
Southern California's famed Colorado rado River stern and sidewheeler steam- of the American Southwest where you
Desert will not be short changed. boats, long forgotten Army posts and can savor some of the adventures the
The book is an ideal hiking companion fabulous gold, copper and silver mines. authoress herself had two decades or
foi any desert denizen and also makes a Miss Murbarger acknowledges "bor- more ago.
good coffee table conversation piece due rowing" material from other sources, Both paperback, "Sovereigns of the
to the uniform excellence of the author's which is no crime; all writers do, but few Sage," 342 pages, 70 photographs, eight
handsome color photographs. have the courtesy to say so, or to im- maps; "Ghosts of the Adobe Walls,"
Paperback, 234 pages, $6.00. prove on the original by better writing, 398 pages, 55 photos. Each book priced
as she does. at $7.95
"Sovereigns of the Sage," has a title
reminiscent of the late Zane Grey, but
unlike the famous cowboy-theme author,
her material is not fiction. It is composed Preserve your copies in these
vinyl binders that hold 12
of more than 50 true-life anecdotes, bi- issues. Gold-stamped on the
cover and spine, and dated if
ographies and reports of actual people you desire.
and places, from Utah to the Colorado
ONLY ^ J Postpaid
Desert of southeastern California. The
DESERT MAGAZINE
book is blessed also with a series of ex- Box 1318
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
GHOSTS OF THE ADOBE WALLS

and
SOVEREIGNS OF THE SAGE
NEW TITLES FOR
B\ Nell Murbarger
WINTER 1977 — SPRING 1978
Readers of Desert Magazine can re-
joce! Two of Nell Murbarger's oldtime Dick d'Easum . . . SAWTOOTH TALES . . . paper. . . $6.95
favorites are back in print. Ralph Friedman . . . TRACKING DOWN OREGON . . . paper . . . $5.95
Known to our readers for nigh on to 30
years as "the roving reporter of the Don and Myrtle Holm . . . BOOK OF FOOD DRYING,
desert," Miss Murbarger has long spe- PICKLING AND SMOKE CURING . . . paper. . . $4.95
cialized in human interest stories about Gene Plowden . . . SINGING WHEELS AND
re il people, the residents of those old CIRCUS WAGONS . . . paper . . . $4.95
m'ning camps and ghost towns whose
Sessions S. Wheeler . . . THE BLACK ROCK DESERT . . . paper . . . $4.95
lives are shared vicariously by the arm-
chair reader without any of the hard- Details of these and other titles in our 1977 Color Supplement Catalog.
ships. Unlike many writers of desert Please write for a copy.
th :mes, the Costa Mesa, California,
authoress has a newspaper reporter's The CAXTON PRINTERS, Ltd.
eye for detail, accuracy and the turn of a Box 700
phrase that sets her material ahead of
Caldwell, Idaho 83605
others.
D< sert/April 1978

Lone tree near
eastern edge of the
Willow Hole. Beards
or dead fronds on
most of the isolated
trees are unturned.
Brush in foreground
was washed away
in heavy rains
of midwinter.
WILLOW HOLE OASIS

AN ALMOST PARKSITE
HISTORIC PALM GROVE HIDDEN
ALONG OLD DESERT HIGHWAY
by BILL JENNINGS
Desert/April 1978
UCKED INTO A windswept corner stream much of the winter and alkaline a new landfill to serve the Palm Springs-
T of California's upper Coachella Val-

ley is an unlikely oasis of palm, ar-
rowweed and mesquite, an almost for-
gotten park site known as the Willow
water is available the year-round by dig-
ging just a few feet near the roots of
several of the palm clusters. Several
trees have died in recent years but new
Desert Hot Springs area became appar-
ent in the wake of growing population
and less room in the existing dumpsite.
Desert Hot Springs residents rallied
Hole. ones are emerging to their their place behind Mrs. Evelyn Knudsen, then the
The name might make you think pri- and the total count is little different than head of an organization called the Des-
marily of thickets of the water-guzzling when J. Smeaton Chase visited the place ert Hot Springs Improvement Associa-
desert trees, and you would be par- when he was writing his desert classic, tion. The late Ed Walker, then River-
tially right. It would seem more logical, California Desert Trails, in 1918. The side County parks director, offered to
however, to name the little cienega for other great biographer of the arid re- help by making Willow Hole an adjunct
its clump of 36 palms, in various stages gion of southeastern California, George of the 400-acre parksite he planned at
of maturity and decline, or its soldierly Wharton James, almost certainly passed the north end of the Indio Hills.
ranks of the dusty, gray-green arrow- the Willow Hole in 1906, but his book, Willow Hole had been proposed as a
woed or even the surprising stands of The Wonders of the Colorado Desert, parksite long before, by the late Herb
young mesquite growing on the charred fails to mention his visit. Ecclestone, then a Desert Hot Springs
stumps of their burned-out elders. Willow Hole was proposed as a com- resident and a leader in the old River-
Unlikely as an oasis because Willow munity park in the early 1960s by the side County Association of Chambers of
Hole is surrounded by sand dunes and Desert Hot Springs Park and Recreation Commerce. Neither Ecclestone, the
w ill-cobbled rock hills, four miles south- District. While the funding campaign improvement association or the county
east of Desert Hot Springs, at the junc- failed, it at least accomplished one park agency made much headway, how-
tion of old Highways 60-70-99, now purpose — it prevented Willow Hole be- ever, until a Palm Springs resident, Mrs.
known as Varner Road, and Mountain coming a Riverside County dump! Alberta Wagner, provided funds for a
View Road. That use had been described in the preliminary feasibility survey made by a
The marsh contains a slow-running late 1950s by the county when a need for Riverside architect, Jack Burg.
Old rockhouse cafe

and service station
near the Willow Hole m4t
c long former State and •**
U.S. Highways X
60-70-99 have been
frequently used as
movie sets but are now
rapidly melting into
the landscape. &&
Old rest stop was
abandoned in about
1950 before
Interstate 10
replaced the old
two-lane highway.
Daaert/April 1978 9
r •-
Burg's document, coupled with
spirited support from two Indian or-
ganizations, the Malki Museum of
Morongo Reservation, and the American
Indian Historical Society of San Fran-
cisco, apparently awakened the interest
of the landlord, the U.S. Bureau of Land
Management. But the park never
materialized.
Willow Hole, it turned out, had been a
traditional resting place for the Cahuilla,
the Chemehuevi and possibly the Ser-
rano Indians on their periodic migrations
between the San Corgonio Pass, the
Coachella Valley and the High Desert
beyond. Certainly there remains ample
evidence of this occupation, in litters of
broken potshards, stone tools, grinding
holes and perhaps even the stumps of
old burned mesquite.
In any case, BLM listened, assured
the park district that the land would not
become a cut and cover dumpsite, but
apparently never approved the archi-
tectural design for a park. Now, 10 years
later, the land is still reserved for park
use and may eventually be so desig-
nated on the final version of the BLM
Desert Plan and developed by the fed-
Slope on right [above] is littered with potsherds uncovered during midwinter rains. eral agency. New state laws protect the
Federal and state laws prohibit removal of manmade material without a special per- site also, because of the known abori-
mit. Overall view [below] of Willow Hole, looking toward stormswept Little San ginal land uses and the earlier opposi-
Bernardino Mountains. Area is along branch of San Andreas Fault, which may tion to sale or dump use from the two
account for the abundant, if slightly saline waters that often surface here. Indian organizations.
Willow Hole is also protected by
Mother Nature, wjth inhospitable sur-
roundings and its own windy micro-
climate. Seldom does the wind let up for
more than a few days and as a little extra
protection against private land develop-
ment, the area is astride the desert
branch of the San Andreas Fault.
The county moved the landfill site two
miles to the southeast, where the Edom
Hill dump now serves the upper Coa-
chella Valley — but the proximity of that
site has posed another problem in recent
years.
The entire north end of the Indio Hills,
a sandy subrange of the Little San Ber-
nardinos that flanks the faultline from
Desert Hot Springs southeast to the
Salton Sea, has become an unauthorized
but apparently permitted recreational
area, peopled primarily on weekends by
hordes of motorcyclists, a growing num-
ber of hang glider enthusiasts, plinkers
and plain old picnickers.
On a recent visit, the writer found
Willow Hole pockmarked with target
10 Desert/April 1978
Stay At the clean
and new
with the Monument
Valley KOA
giants. campground.
With individual
trailer hook-ups, a
general store and laundry/shower facilities.
Monument / \
Valley KOA KOA
\JIM m Stay at near-by Goulding's
Lodge & Trading Post. Furnished,
air-conditioned rooms, tamily style
meals and shopping facilities.
Plus daily guided tours into the
heart of Monument Valley. An
adventure you wont want to miss.
Goulding's
Lodge & Tours
For free brochure
and information
write Box 1-D,
Monument Valley,
Utah 84536.
Or call (801)
727-3231.
Willow Hole, looking north toward Desert Hot Springs, showing vehicle tracks Reservations are necessary
for rooms, meals, and tours.
leading toward heart of the marsh. Palms and mesquite appear on banks of canyon.
shooters' leavings, shotgun shells, 'cycle no closer than the shoulders of the old
tracks and old beer cans. Maybe the highway or Mountain View Road. Four- FUN PHOTO TOTE BAG
PERSONAL and PRACTICAL to
EiLM is not permitting its development wheel-drive and dune buggies can pene- own or to give. Send any size
for housing or trash disposal but neither trate a little closer but the " H o l e " itself photo, slide or lithograph - color or
BW. (returned). We'll reproduce
is there any apparent patrol to protect is probably safe from all motor vehicles. it, 8 " x 10" on a Tote Bag of
the wildlife and aboriginal area. Horsemen occasionally visit the area but heavy-duty, natural canvas, 14"
x14". Center snap. Built-in
The nearby rock house service station, presumably have learned the marshy Keyholder. $ n . 5 O each ppd.
areas are akin to quicksand and stay CA residents add 6% tax. Send photo
I )ng an oasis for boiling radiators at the and check or money order today to:
summit of the long grade out of the val- away from the heart of the little natural BOGSIDE PRODUCTS
Box 601, Dept. TK2 Encinitas, CA 92024
park.
I jy, is gradually falling into total ruin, its
stone and block walls marked with graf- Most of the surface aboriginal mater-
fiti, unauthorized trash dumping filling ials have been removed time and again A New Uniquely Designed
the three small buildings. The wooden by pothunters, but each fresh wind or SECURITY WALLET
Stops
ceilings and roofs long ago became rain storm, as occurred repeatedly dur- Pick Pockets 6 Purse Snofchers
campfire fuel and the eerie quality that ing the Christmas-New Year's holiday The Long Sought Protection
Millions Have Sought
made the old place a natural movie set period and into January this year, turns
far several film companies two decades up dozens more artifacts.
ago has been heightened. The initial parksite proposal of 1966 Big Bills
Across the highway, Willow Hole still indicated development for family pic- Valuables
dffers the haven for wildlife it did before nicking, with minimal recreational facili-
the visitors. Bobcat tracks, quail, many ties, might cost as much as a million
Credit Cards
migratory birds and a resident popula- dollars over a 40-year period. p - Passport
tion of lizards, rodents and butterflies Twelve years of inflation, plus the in- ravelers Checks
cittest to the potential the area has as a creasing depredations of casual visitors Genuine Leather
wildlife reserve even today. might well result in a development bill ORDER TODAY
$ 9 . 5 0 plus .50<t h a n d l i n g
Entry into the central marshlands is costing twice that much today, but the
Calif residents add 6% sales rax
difficult, even for motorcyclists, due to million-dollar Willow Hole park still WARREN OF CALIFORNIA
the arrowweed and willow thickets and appears as an inviting prospect. And 40 P.O. Box 3265D, San Diego, Calif. 92103
ordinary passenger cars should approach years from now, who knows? •
desert/ April 1978 11
T
HERE IS A remote and isolated Above and right: Two views
promontory on the south rim of the of the jumbled pieces
Grand Canyon where an archeologi- that at one time formed
cal mystery waits to be unraveled. Here, a five-foot-high wall.
on a massive block of limestone, de-
tached from the canyon's main rim, is
found a strange block wall dating back to
the dawn of antiquity. Who built the only on the side that faces the Coconino
wall? When was it made? What was its Plateau. There is no wall on the edge
purpose? All these questions remain un- that overlooks Grand Canyon proper and
answered. The National Park Service has the Colorado River some 4,000 feet be-
had archeologists look at the site but low. The wall is made out of blocks of
they have come to no firm conclusions. Kaibab limestone which is found every-
Through eons of geologic time a piece where in the vicinity and readily
of Kaibab limestone became separated available. Some of the blocks weigh sev-
from the Coconino Plateau. The split eral hundred pounds and in places they
created an island of rock nearly 100 have been stacked on top of each other
yards long by some 10 to 20 yards wide. three or four rows high. It is difficult to In the center part of the island, where
The distance between this block and the guess how high the wall was originally, the block is the widest, the remains of a
canyon rim is only 40 to 50 yards. The perhaps five feet or more. Judging from half a dozen enclosed walls suggest that
canyon rim is slightly higher than the the rock debris at the bottom of the cliff, building structures were incorporated
block and is at an elevation of approxi- the wall must have been at least par- into the wall. Nearby is a narrow crack
mately 6,000 feet. While there is nothing tially eroded away over the centuries deep in the island which goes down 30
larger than an occasional ephedra bush since it was built. In some places today feet to the base of the island. If the trunk
growing on the block, the vegetation on there is just a basal row of rock per- of a pinyon tree were to be placed in this
the nearby rim is a pinyon-juniper forest. haps a foot or two high, in other places fissure, the slot would be just wide
Today the nearest source of water is a the wall is still three or four feet high. enough for a person to climb through to
spring, some four miles away. One thing is certain, however, the wall is gain access to the top of the island.
The curious rock wall was built along man-made; it is not some geologic oddity There is only one other route to climb to
the length of this "island of rock," but of nature. the top, and it is not very easy.
12
Desert/April 1978
by ROGER MITCHELL
Anyone on top of the island would cer- they would have to do is drop heavy
tainly have the advantage if he were de- rocks on those trying to climb up, or
fending this little " k i n g d o m " from push them away with a long stick. Those
attack. The walls are perpendicular all on the island would be vulnerable only to
the way around. An invader would have spears, arrows, or rocks, launched from
a precarious and exposed climb of only the main plateau rim. Of course, the
sr- two routes. A few defenders could repel

and hold off an army of hundreds. All
block wall faces the main rim and would
shield the defender from these missiles.
An aerial view
shows the huge
stones stacked
right to the edge
of the limestone
promontory
in the vastness of
the Crand Canyon.
t esert/ April 1978 13
For this reason it seems logical to think
RIVERSIDE COUNTY'S LARGEST the wall was built for defensive purposes.
4-WHEEL-DRIVE HEADQUARTERS There are still many questions to be
Accessories for All Makes answered. Was this complex built by the
Anasazi of the Colorado Plateau Country
n Jeep who inhabited parts of the Grand Can-

yon for 2,000 years and later built the
village at Tusayan? Or was it built by the
JOHNSON'S 4WD CENTER, INC Patayan or Cohonina peoples who moved
7590 Cypress [at Van Buren] north onto the Coconino Plateau between
P. O. Box 4277
Riverside, California 92504
700 A.D. and 900 A.D.? If the wall was
Telephone [714)785-1330 indeed a defensive fortification, who
were the invaders and why would they
choose this particular place to make a
stand?
Other than the wall itself, and ruins of
GENUINE several structures, there are few other
DOMESTICATED artifacts to be found on the surface. This
might suggest that the site was not used
GOLDEN CHIA SEEDS
very much, or was not used over a long
(SALVIA COLUMBARIAE)
period of time. Perhaps this is because
there is no water in the immediate
Sufficient (or four 50-foot rows. Complete vicinity. At the base of the island there is
instructions. Packet: $2.00. one small cavity which looks like it might
have once been enclosed with a mud wall
HARRISON DOYLE
P. O. Box 785 forming a rodent-free storage
Vista, California 92083 compartment. Other fissures in the frac-
tured limestone might also have been
used as granaries, but there is no physi-
cal evidence left today to prove this

Tours in or near theory. But if this was a defensive forti-
fication, and if these were granaries,
Canyonlands National Park why would they be situated at the base of
•ISLAND IN THE SKY 'WASHERWOMAN the cliff? There the foodstuffs would not
• WALKING ROCKS 'MONUMENT BASIN be readily accessible to either attacker or
• ARCHES NATIONAL PARK
•ONION CREEK 'HURRAH PASS defender. Either s|de could prevent the
•GEMINI BRIDGES •ROCKHOUNDING other from getting to them. Under a
Half Day, Full Day and Special siege situation the defenders of the is-
Tours at Reasonable Rates land must have made provisions to store
Unlolded, f ram able 16"x22'" stereograph ic map of food and water on top, although the
Canyonlands and Arches National Monuments
and Monumenl Valley length of time they could hold out in
$1.50 each, Postpaid
their stronghold seems very limited.
LIN OTTINGER'S TOURS The evidence seems to suggest that
Moab Rock Shop, 137 N. Main, Moab, Utah 84532 Walking Rocks in Canyonlands the island fortress was built somewhere
Phone [801 ] 259-7312 for Reservations
in the two century span beginning
around 900 A.D. and ending around
COMFORT We carry 1100 A.D. It was during this period that
the best of the Cohonina culture, like their neigh-
HEADQUARTERS! Authentic bors to the west, the Cerbat peoples,
Moccasins Indian Jewelry moved north onto the south rim of the
for the Rugs—Sand Grand Canyon. The Cohonina culture is
Whole Family Paintings- known for its houses associated with
walls which form a patio or courtyard.
Souvenirs Some of these ruins do resemble forts in
Books
appearance, although the Cohoninas
Pottery
Kachinas mourn
194 North Palm Canyon Dr.
were not thought to be war-like, or have
any particular enemies. The archeologi-
cal record does not reveal any evidence
of warfare. It is possible that some Co-
Open Sundays
Palm Springs, CA 325-6425 honina family simply chose this block of
CUT GEMS FOR
FUN & PROFIT
14 GEM TUMBLERS
SHOW IN FREE
C0V1NGT0N CATALOG
21 TRIM SAWS
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UNITS SHOWN IN
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and $1.00 Bonus!
COVINGTON'S [since 1848]
Box 35. Dept. D, Redlands, CA 92373
Author
examines Send for free Book Catalog
mystery Desert Magazine Book Shop
wall. Palm Desert, California 92260
limestone to live on with no particular

thought of defense. The Cohoninas did
enjoy their privacy, choosing to live scat;
tered about, rather than clustered toge-
ther in villages as the Anasazi did. And
even to the Cohonina, the view of the
canyon and the mighty Colorado River
far below must have been every bit as
awe-inspiring and magnificent as it is to
US today. It would certainly be a spec-
tacular place to live, even if it was a bit of
a walk for water.
Nobody is really certain what hap-
pened to the Cohonina people. About w ' 1
Whether you see Lake Powell aboard one of our boats, or yours, you'll never forget this
1150 A.D. they seem to have moved on.
"Grand Canyon with water!' We are National Park Service authorized. . ...
Some think they were displaced by the
• Houseboat & powerboat rentals • Guided boat tours • Restaurants M
Cerbat peoples who slowly expanded
• Accommodations: RV hook-ups & rooms • Fishing guides & charters
eastward. A certain number apparently
• Backcountry four-wheel guided trips • Lake fly-overs • Supplies
moved down into the canyon, particu-
• Boat docking, storage, servicing
larly nearby Havasu Canyon, where their
direct descendants, the Havasupai, still
Please send color brochure and rates on one or more of the following:
live today.
• Hite Marina • Wahweap D Bullfrog
Because these ruins would be sus-
ceptible to complete destruction by van-
dalism, I will not disclose the site. But
1 (801) 6842278
Hanksville UT 84734
Lodge & Marina
(602) 645-2433
Resort & Marina
(801) 684-2233
P.O. Box 1597 • Page AZ 86040 Hanksville UT 84734
this ruin, like many others, awaits the Name
explorer willing to get off the beaten
path, and out of his car. This myster-
ious wall is but one of the many riddles I Address.
City _ State. -Zip- I

m the Southwest which waits to be Phone DM
solved. •
Desert/April 1978 15
CECJAR BREAI<S
by MARY FRANCES STRONG
photos by Jerry Strong
W
HEN THE hot winds of summer This is dependent upon the weather, as
scorch the lowlands and broil the early fall storms frequently close the
desert regions, it is time for a vaca- Monument.
tion in the high country. In Utah, they Jerry and I had been looking forward
call their southwest corner "Color to visiting Cedar Breaks Monument and
Country." Never was a name more the Brianhead Agate locale. We had lin-
appropriate! Rising abruptly from the gered longer in Nevada than planned, so
high plains, nine- to eleven-thousand- it was near the end of October when we
foot peaks reach skyward — their shoul- arrived in Cedar City, Utah. High, thin
ders mantled with fine stands of quaking clouds told of storms in the north and the
aspen, fir, spruce and pine. local weatherman predicted one was due
Though the vegetation adds greatly to to reach Cedar City. Our luck held and
the beauty of the scene, it is the land the next morning clear, blue skies
itself that gives rise to the name "Color greeted us, though high, thin clouds still
Country." Here, tremendous forces of remained on the western horizon. All
erosion have sculptured massive sedi- was " g o " for Cedar Breaks and
mentary deposits into an artistry that is Brianhead.
magnificent to behold. Red, brown, ver- We headed east on Highway 14
million, white and pink are but a few of through the vermillion gates formed by
the multitudinous colors to be seen in the Hurricane Ridge. Cedar Canyon quickly
dazzling array of picturesque geological narrowed and high walls towered far
formations. above us. Just below the road, Coal
Color Country's three National Parks Creek rushed toward the plains. Along
— Capitol Reef, Bryce and Zion — as its banks, the golden leaves of quaking
well as the Glen Canyon National Rec- aspen shimmered in the first rays of the
reation Area — are well known, even to morning sun. We soon passed the Cedar
those who have not yet visited the City Steam Plant. It is located on the site
region. A fifth outstanding area is Cedar of coal deposits, the presence of which
Breaks National Monument. It is lesser led to the original settlement at the can-
known and often by-passed by vacation- yon's mouth. The plant is used to pro-
ers hurrying to see "all the sights" vide additional power at peak demand
possible. time.
No two of these parks are alike. Each A variety of landscapes were enjoyed
has its own unique formations, color and as the highway snaked its way up the
charm. While Cedar Breaks is the small- mountains. We drove through deep can-
est in size, it can take the honors for yons, then out on high mountain shoul-
being the highest with an elevation of ders where the view was endless. Far
10,400 feet at the rim. The travel sea- below, we could often see the road we
son is from early June to late October. had just traveled.
AN<J AGATE
ZL v
V. >t
late the beauty with our eyes.
From the viewpoint, it was a little over
a mile to Markagunt Plateau where scat-
tered patches of snow lay among the
trees. We junctioned with Highway 143
— the Cedar Breaks Road — and fol-
Left: Brianhead
lowed it north. Vegetation began to
Agate will be
change as our altimeter rose to over
found in this
10,000 feet. Open, grassy meadows now
small creek
appeared between stands of Englemann
and along its
Spruce and Alpine Fir.
banks. Just
below the trees, Enroute to the Visitor's Center, Jerry
are large spotted an interesting bird's nest. He
guessed it to be that of a Goshawk and
^ ^ H outcrops of
advised me to keep the old eyes open.
H vein agate.
His guess was confirmed when we
Below: It is fun
sighted one of these beautiful raptors.
to collect in the
Generally, I do not mention such sight-
creek where
ings in order to prevent any possible
the water
nest-robbing or capture of immature
"shows" the
birds for use in falconry. Since they are
colors. The
protected in the Monument, I can share
• •':- chunk jerry is
with you the thrill of seeing one of the
removing proved
elusive, proud birds. The Goshawk ap-
'' to be a beautiful
pears to be diminishing and may soon be
combination of
removed from the list of birds that may
red, yellow and
be taken for use in falconry.
black jasper in
the basic agate. The Visitor Center is open from June
through Labor Day and a Park Ranger is
The 17-mile drive from Cedar City to Prior to the summit, we stopped at on duty daily to answer questions and
the Markagunt Plateau climbs over 4,100 Zion Viewpoint. All one can say to de- suggest places of interest. The center
feet and we found it one of the most scribe the scene is "magnificent — has exhibits explaining the formation of
scenic ever taken. We were too late for breathtaking." Looking south across the colorful escarpment, as well as in-
the glorious aspen color in the higher miles and miles of unspoiled wilderness, formation about the monument's animal
elevations but there was the beauty of the massive rock formations of Zion and plant life.
prime trees and luxuriant undergrowth stand out boldly on the skyline. We en- From the Center at Point Supreme, a
to ad mite. joyed a coffee break and tried to assimi- short walk leads to the rim where, far
below, the picturesque formations are
exposed in all their magnificence. Like a
kaleidoscope, the color and form is ever
changing with varying light and asso-
ciated shadows. Brilliant in the noon-
day sun, this natural amphitheater ap-
pears dark and forboding when storm
clouds gather overhead. The name
"Cedar Breaks" was given the forma-
tion by early Mormon settlers. They re-
ferred to broken country as "breaks"
and mistakenly called the large junipers
"cedars."
A two-mile hike along the Wasatch
Ramparts Trail (it begins at the Center)
will take visitors to Spectra Point and a
stand of Bristlecone Pines at the trail's
end. The oldest tree here is believed to
be about 3,000 years of age.
A short distance east of the Center
there is a very nice campground and pic-
nic area among the pines. The camp-
ground has 30 units (trailers o.k.) and a
CECJAR BREAI<S MARKAGUNT
Al\ld
Cedar Breaks /
Forest
lion County
ndory_
daily fee of $2.00 is charged. Water and and conies (pika) will be seen scamper- below 6,000 feet elevation. You can't
sanitary facilities are provided. The ing on the rocky slopes. Weasels, bad- miss these jaunty, handsome birds with
campground is open from June 15th to gers and coyotes are not uncommon. Oc- light grey bodies and large, white
September 15th. Keep in mind the ele- casionally, a mountain lion will be ob- patches on their black wings and tail.
vation here is 10,400 feet. Take it easy served. Mule deer can generally be seen They are friendly birds and will often be
until you become acclimated. grazing along the rim during early morn- regular guests at your camp table.
Be sure to take the five-mile rim drive ing and late afternoon. A stop at Sunset View will reward you
and stop at all the viewpoints. Each will There are many interesting birds in with a spectacular vista of the amphi-
give you a different perspective of the the Monument — White-throated Swift, theater and an almost endless panorama
Cedar Breaks formation. Watch for the Stellar's Jay, Violet-green Swallow, Blue of the wilderness area to the west. The
Monument's wildlife — there is plenty. Grouse, Golden and Bald Eagles. One, forests appear dense and lush. Not a
You will recognize ground squirrels, Clark's Nutcracker, is truly a bird of the road mars the scene. It is land primeval
chipmunks and red squirrels. Marmots very high country. They are seldom seen Continued on Page 39
WONDERS OF
T WAS A STILL, warmish, late even-
ing in Mid Easter Week at Death Val-
what did you call it?"
"The title was 'Death Valley Oddi-
"What you say is true, sir, but very
few visitors have your insight, and these
! ley National Monument. I had just ties,' a collection of strange sights and changes should be understood to be
conducted a double-feature slide talk at scenes most visitors don't get to see. appreciated. My talk usually passes over
the Stove Pipe Wells Hotel lobby and "That's exactly what we were dis- the causes of change lightly, but the ef-
was enjoying the quiet walk back to my cussing, Chuck," said one dignified- fects are illustrated as they are more real
trailer. For the past several days, rip- looking gentlemen. " M y wife and I have to the visitor; they can be felt, seen, or
ping winds and stinging sands had kept been coming here to Death Valley for heard."
most activities to a minimum, and this over 30 years now, and many of the My last remark seemed to hang there
new stillness was only punctuated by things you showed in the slides were not in the air, empty and unattended, and I
songs and laughter from the crowded the least familiar to u s ! " was concerned that I.might have com-
campground. Small groups of people Having been through this many times mitted some offense to their intelligence.
were lounging on the porches of the before, I politely explained that I had I added, " I n other words, my slides draw
motel units enjoying the sight of the recognized the fact that all visitors did attention to what happens as a result of a
mysterious sand dunes bathed in not spend large amounts of time ex- road change, or a campground closure,
moonbeams. ploring the Valley as I did, and the or perhaps extra heavy fall rains."
Out of the quietness suddenly came, "Death Valley Oddities" talk was one " I n other words, Mr. Gebhardt," said
" O h , Mr. Gebhardt, Mr. Gebhardt - way to share these experiences. the lady who had first called me over to
could you please come talk to us?" "That aspect we understood, young the group, "we were paying attention to
"Yes, ma'am," I replied, and made man, but what we meant were the con- the obvious causes of change, and over-
my way through the parked cars to the trasts of changes you had illustrated; the looking the details of the effects so that
small group of men and women on the changing scene with respect to time, what you illustrated appeared new to us
motel porch. weather, and man. It just seemed to us - right?"
A question came from a lady in the that these were common, if not alto- "Right, ma'am. And if you people
center of the group, " W e were just dis- gether obvious, influences on the could join us tomorrow on a short hike to
cussing your first slide talk tonight — Valley's makeup." Hole-in-the-Rock Spring, we can show
DEATH VALLEY
by
CHUCK
GEBHARDT
A scene in old
Mosaic Canyon
[right] prior to
the last few
years of heavy
rainfall which
filled in areas
such as this with
gravel. The
mysterious
moving rocks of
Racetrack Playa
[opposite page]
leave their trail
l>ut barely scrape
the surface
soil layer.
could count at least five minor lakes
amid the dunes when viewing the scene
from the Grotto Canyon road. In areas of
clay-laden soils, the lake beds are sheets
of cracked and jagged mud blocks.
Where the soil material is predominant-
ly sand with just a trace of clay, the
ground surface has formed into fine curls
of dried mud as delicate as the wood
curls from a well-adjusted carpenter's
plane. To see these areas best, drive a
short distance up the Grotto Canyon road
to look down upon the dunes and the
sites where lakes once stood.
Changes to accommodations and ser-
vices in general throughout the Monu-
ment have been few except for gasoline
and food prices. The campgrounds in the
Furnace Creek and Stove Pipe Wells
areas have been enlarged and improved
slightly in the past few years, but during
the peak visitor periods, these changes
are hardly discernible. Speaking of peak
O/d Harmony Borax Works site, the first successful borax operation in Death Valley. visitor periods, the energy crisis of late
you in real life what you have seen on the coming and outgoing traffic for two days, 1973 and early 1974 greatly reduced vis-
slides." but also brought about premature itor population in the Valley overall. Due
The entire group indicated an excited blooming of plants in lower canyons dur- to a record visitation over the Easter
interest in seeing first-hand some of the ing the month of November. This 1977- Week period, the 1973 population
"Oddities" that had been shown at the 1978 winter has already appeared to topped 600,000 for the first time in Park
slide talk and, following belated intro- break the California drought in most history. By the end of 1974, the num-
ductions, we finally bid each other parts of the state, and the spring visitor ber dropped to 384,000. Evidently, this
goodnight. to Death Valley this season will be the was a temporary slowdown and the mag-
Rarely are changes of any'sort subtle recipient of an outstanding flower show. netism of Death Valley won out. The
and undetectable in Death Valley. For A fringe benefit of good snows in the recent visitor population statistics in-
example, if you have not been to the surrounding mountain areas is the in- dicate the figure to be back over the
Valley since prior to the fall of 1976, the creased water table level allowing 600,000 mark, so we should all be pre-
boardwalk surrounding Salt Creek will blooms to remain on the plants a little pared to get back fn line for gas, food,
be a new experience. The primary pur- longer than normal. and Scotty's Castle tickets! By the way,
pose of the wooden walkway was to pre- The only permanent road closure that in case you hadn't heard, the service
vent further extension of the waters into comes to mind is the Trail Canyon Road station at Furnace Creek Ranch has
separate tributaries. People traffic over — once upon a time the most beautiful switched from Arco to Chevron.
the years, back and forth across the offroad adventure in the Monument. For The Park Service at Death Valley has
creek banks, caused many new paths for several years, heavy rains accompanied undergone somewhat of an organiza-
the water which in turn threatened to by severe runoff from the upper canyon tional facelifting resulting in divisions
reduce the main creek level. Since this is drove all manner of debris down-canyon for the various functions they perform.
one of the homes of the Desert Pupfish, to create a monstrous alluvial fan of Of most benefit to the visitor was the
their survival was dependent on the rubble. A couple of years ago, a hardy formation of the Interpretive Division.
water level and that survival was being group of offroad drivers from the Cali- From this talented group of Service em-
jeopardized. The boardwalk now directs fornia Association of 4WD Clubs cut a ployees emanates the walks and talks
the foot traffic along the best parts of the road in almost 10 miles before rain, snow conducted throughout the Monument.
creek, and permits the visitor to view the and time forced a halt. The scars of the Even though their schedule of events
pupfish without any hazard to their al- canyon debris can easily be seen from from years past was impressive, the lat-
ready tenuous existence. the main highway, and Trail Canyon re- est schedules appear to have more in-
The above-average rainfall in the mains closed to this day. depth walks and talks which are care-
past two years (three to four inches) has Should you venture in and around the fully planned and interestingly executed.
created some new washes, expanded sand dunes east of Stove Pipe Wells Knowing of these changes, whether
larger washes into minor canyons, and Village, you will see the effects of the man-made or natural, is of little conse-
resulted in spectacular spring flower rains of the past couple of years in the quence to the visitor unless they can be
displays. The summer rains of 1976 were scars of lakes. Following a particularly experienced first-hand. Regardless of
heavy enough to close the Park to in- heavy downpour in September, one your age, sex, or size, take advantage of
I Good things \W
are happening at...
DcathValley
Junction
Stay at the historic
AMARGOSA HOTEL
This lovely 50-year-old hotel is

being restored. 20 rooms open
year 'round. All carpeted. All
beautifully furnished. Electric
heat and air conditioning. Make
the Amargosa Hotel your head-
quarters while in the Death
Valley area.
Telephone Death Valley Junc-
tion #1 for information or reser-
vations.
Visit Marta Becket's famous

AMARGOSA OPERA HOUSE.
You've read about this beautiful
A late afternoon stroll on the boardwalk along the west side of Salt Creek. and unique attraction in Desert
the many opportunities to accompany a Desolation is replaced with beauty as and National Geographic. See
Park Ranger or myself on a brief ex- the sand dunes spread their shadows Marta Becket's program of
dance-mimes. See her fabulous
ploration of an historical site, a natural across Mesquite Flat, and their con-
murals inside the Opera House.
phenomenon, or a colorful panorama. tours appear to alter and exaggerate
Performances Friday, Saturday
T hen, and only then, you will witness . . . with each five degree rise of the sun. The and Monday Through April.
The first rays of the morning sun wash neighboring field of arrowweed shocks Saturdays only in May, Septem-
the western side of the Panamints with cast lengthy shadows towards the dunes ber. 8:15; doors open at 7:45.
strong tones of pink and red. Far out on while their opposite sides are drenched Telephone Death Valley Junc-
the Devil's Golfcourse, the salt pinnacles in pink light. tion #8 for reservations. Tours
begin to glisten and sparkle like a field of Soon, the morning must move on to be welcomed.
grotesquely-shaped diamonds. The si- replaced by the harsh light of mid-
l<?nce is gently nudged by the sunrise day. There is little of real beauty at this
symphony of the salt crystals — faintly time except for remote canyons and
at first light — but clearer and more de- mountain retreats where such beauty is The General Store, Filling Sta-
finitive as the sun's gradual rising sends timeless and enjoyed by the dedicated tion and Pottery Shop are open.
warmer rays for the crystals to absorb. lovers of Death Valley. As midday gives RV Park coming. Space avail-
able for development.
A rainbow of color dances across the in to late afternoon, one seeks the won-
Salt Creek Hills when the sun reflects its ders of colors in the eastern Valley be-
beauty off the surface of the moving jeweled by the red light of the waning
waters of Salt Creek. The prominent sun. For further information about
DEATH VALLEY JUNCTION
spike of Manly Beacon rises above the These are the wonders of Death Valley
please write:
still-darkened Badlands much like a change. There is much more here to fill
Death Valley Junction, Inc.
golden finger pointing up at the softly your every hour today while tomorrow P.O. Box 675
colored morning clouds, dressed now in stands by awaiting your presence and Death Valley Junction,
pastel shades. Red Cathedral has justi- attention. Rise early to follow the sun; California 92328
fied its naming as the eastern wall turns see, touch, smell, and hear everything
a brilliant red and its sculptured surface within your range, and Death Valley will
ciccented by shadows. be yours forever! •
[ esert/April 1978 23
WESTERN ART
New
Western
Artist
AICA
by D. A. WETTERBERG
"Loving Care"
oil,
30"x40"
Norberto A. Reyes,
AICA
I B HE PAINTINGS are enchanting scenes of the Southwest; old

fl leather boots, sweat-stained felt hats, faces of Indians, old miners
4 and ranch hands. The artist stands among them, smiling as he
talks.
"They see my long black hair, the shape of my eyes, my
cheekbones, and they ask very seriously what tribe I am f r o m . "
Norberto Reyes is not an Indian, nor a cowboy, either. His heritage is
Filipino, but he proudly refers to himself as "an American artist—an
artist who loves to paint the West."
His love for Western themes started an older boy he read intensely about complicated by the United States quota
when he was a boy in the Philippines. Western lore in the library of the United system for immigrants to the United
His parents filled his entire childhood States Information Service. States. Reyes had fine credentials as a
with plans to live in the United States After a taste of success as an artist in successful artist, architect, television
someday. His dreams turned to visions the Philippines (today his paintings hang director and production designer. But
of the deserts and the sagebrush of in the Manila Museum of Art), he began these were openings filled many times
Arizona, California and Nevada, of his plan to come to the United States, in over by United States citizens. The only
cowboys and Indians. Western fantasies his words, " t o partake of what is good in open avenue to the United States was as
were played out on grandpa's farm amid America, to expand, to grow." a tourist. So, with ten dollars in his
a natural setting of horses and cows. As Carrying out the plan became pocket and 15 days on a tourist pass,
Reyes arrived at Los Angeles
International Airport in 1967,
determined to stay.
He managed a series of legal delays
for his return to the Philippines and
filled them with furious energy. This
energy, a firm dedication to purpose,
and unflagging hope overcame each
obstacle. During this period he painted
for various tastes: seascapes, snow
scenes, barns, animals, children, old
people, nudes. Art galleries noticed
Reyes' work and featured it. Famous
collectors-Cornell Wilde, Baron Hilton,
Dennis Weaver—bought his canvasses.
Good fortune reached a peak with two
paintings which became instantly
famous. In 1968 his portrait of Martin
Luther King won first prize over the
entries of hundreds of other established
Left: - artists in the Southern Christian
"Indian Study' Leadership Conference's Memorial
Charcoal, Contest. In 1969 his portrait honoring
16"x20" Apollo astronauts Collins, Aldren and
Armstrong became nationally popular. It
Below: was displayed in major cities throughout
"Ranch Hand" the United States, shown on television,
Oil, in newspapers and in magazines.
16"x24" Secure in his United States
26
cii izenship, granted in 1973, Reyes now
points at his studio in Canoga Park,
California. His Hawaiian wife resembles
an Indian princess. His handsome little
boy and his sprightly baby girl color and
sketch alongside Dad as he works. They
appear, often as Indian children, in
dozens of sketches and paintings
th roughout the house.
His new, hard-earned reputation as a
Y\ estern artist charms him, and he is
gi ateful for the popularity of his Western
pointings. These themes are his
fascination, and he devotes himself
entirely to them. Hitching posts, horses,
corrals are done with subtleties of light
and detail which bring out their magic,
their strength, their beauty.
Last year Norberto Reyes celebrated
his tenth year in the United States by
winning seven awards in Western Art Right:
shows, among them the Gold Medal, "Through
AICA competition; First Prize, May Art the Barn
Festival, Chriswood Gallery, Temecula, Door"
C ilifornia; and First Prize and Best of Oil,
SI iow, FFP Western Art Exhibit. 30"x40"
His paintings can be seen at the
coming American Indian and Cowboy Below:
Artists Society's annual art exhibition in "First
Sin Dimas, California, April 28, 29 and Born"
30, as well as the Desert Magazine Art Oil,
Gallery in Palm Desert. • 24"x36"
27
DREAMECJ
TRAIIS
UINTRAMMEIECI
byJEANCROWL
Jim London, ?—1968.
These lines from Jim London's poem,

When grub is on the boards, me lad, You're heading out into the space Runty's Advice to Others, caught my
The diamond hitch is thrown. All filled with rock and sand, eye, and prompted me to decipher pages
You walk around it, check it up, A kind of heavenly hell on earth - of cramped scribblings on the back of old
Then it's time to get you goin'l The prospector's promised land. topo maps, and charts from the Cali-
fornia Division of Mines. To me his
poems well express the philosophy of a
vanished species, the single-blanket
prospector of the American West. Jim,
who died in 1968, was one of the last of
that breed.
I started out with a very different plan
for writing this story — but Jim sort of
painted his own picture. When we first
met him, he was an elderly, wiry little
man; frail in appearance, erect in
carriage. Steel-rimmed spectacles
perched on his nose, and an old base-
28
Desert/April 1978
t all cap on his long, sparse grey hair. He his needs by prevailing on someone to Self-educated, his formal education
wore a neat beard, and pretty scruffy accept a service or product that was ended with second grade. He was an ex-
clothes. First impression was not im- really neither needed nor wanted, in extremely fine mineralogist, an excellent
posing, but the smile in his eyes and his change for funds he needed. Sometime lapidarist and a mighty fine conver-
soft-spoken manner made it clear that after the Valerie Jean era, he drifted sationalist. He read everyone's old
here was a gentleman. He was a mild north to Twentynine Palms. It was there, magazines and newspapers. One of my
man, never profane, never noisy; but 22 years ago, that we "acquired" J im as early memories of Jim is seeing him fre-
rever, never meek! an elderly handyman-dependent; in- quently at the local greasy spoon, nurs-
Jim first saw the western desert as a heriting him, as it were, from another ing an hour's old cup of coffee and
child, traveling with his peddler father, small businessman. Our adoptive rela- studying intently a borrowed high school
whom he described as a tinker. They tra- tionship developed in the same fashion chemistry or physics text.
\ eled the mining camps from Tonopah, that people acquire cats. He adopted us! When we first knew J im he was living
(loldfield and Rhyolite to the Dale min- We were one more in the long succession in his old truck, sleeping in it wherever
ing district east of Twentynine Palms, of his adopted families. his day ended. But the Law came to '29
j'nd on to Barstow and San Bernardino To give Jim due credit, he worked about the same time we did, and J im was
for merchandise. willingly in exchange for money re- terrified of being picked up as a vagrant.
In the '30s, Jim was one of a small ceived. Of course, by the time we met Could he please park his truck behind
Croup of desert dwellers who congre- him the work was usually "made" work; our veterinary hospital and live in it
jated at Valerie Jean, in the Coachella totally unneeded by the sponsor, a kind there? He'd be glad to act as night
u watchman for our hospital and home —
alley. At that time he was eking out a of privately operated WPA leaf-raking
living selling desert agates and jaspers project, to give Jim some light work to in an era when no one in '29 ever locked
polished by gasoline-powered lapidary justify the handouts he accepted as his their doors!
iquipment and a primitive tumbler. The due. Well, of course he could. But then
lumbler was two old tires, filled with He might well have been the author of came the problem of this rather dirty,
: tones and abrasives, rotated by a gas "Please, Uncle Sam, I'd rather do it disreputable old man hanging around
engine. He sold the results to ranchers myself!" No government pension for the place. So matters progressed to
and homesteaders, who had no idea Jim! To apply for that would be where the shower in the hospital be-
lhat the rocks Jim picked up on their accepting charity. Occasional hesitant came Jim's. Cast-off and barely-used
land could be so pretty! Apparently he suggestions that he apply for a pension clothing became his, and he taught me
: old enough to keep body and soul to- were met with righteous indignation. mineralogy and lapidary skills. For
gether and pay for an occasional pros- However, accepting gifts of money, years, 1 would check Jim's statements
pecting trip. lodging, cigarettes and other amenities against authoritative books; he was al-
Even then, the pattern seemed to be of life from his friends did not seem like ways right and usually easier to under-
et; in packrat fashion, Jim would meet charity to Jim. stand than the books.
Original draft for

London's poetry was
written on old
mining reports.
ORNAMENTAL Once Jim even got a job! In the late relaxed. He had been positively poised
'50s, he was hired as a watchman for the for flight from the moment he sent in the
vti/L movie company making a Disney film in application. Later, when the job was
Unique lawn decora-
the Joshua Tree National Monument. He over, he willingly accepted unemploy-
tion. Adds rustic charm. almost didn't take that job. He had to ment pay. He had enjoyed the job and
4% ft., 8 ft., and 10 ft. have a Social Security card, and not only could feel he had earned that benefit.
sizes. Boxed. Send 50c
in coin or stamps for was that government interference with As a long-time desert dweller, who
colorful literature to: his independence, but something else understood and loved his environment,
ORNAMENTAL surfaced. He confided to the friend he he had worried about the confined wild
AUTHENTIC, BUILT TO WINDMILL SALES
SCALE. TURNS IN was adopting at the time that he could animals who made up the movie cast.
SLIGHTEST BREEZE.
ALL STtll CONSTRUCTION. 10336 DeSoto Avenue
Chatsworth, Cal. 91311 But he approved and appreciated the
213-341-2672 manner in which they were pensioned
off. Jim was instructed to remain at the
IN HIS STEPS
site for at least six months, continuing to
Colorado By Jim London
Holes he dug in the mountains,

feed the coyotes, kit foxes, rabbits,
snakes and others who had played their
roles in the movie; but to leave their pen
River Some shallow, some narrow and

deep.
doors open. Only when a month had
passed without any coming back for
their food could Jim consider his job
Ghost
Blisters were most of his findings,
completed.
Little of ore worth a keep.
While living on the movie set, J im had
developed an interest in painting. With a
Towns
By Stanley W. Paher
Cold that chills to the marrow —
Not zero, not even a freeze —
But the kind that jells the thinking,
That stiffens the ankles and knees.
steady income, he bought painting sup-
plies and equipment, and set out to be an
artist. He returned to living in his truck
in our back yard and attempted to sell his
paintings, some of which were
He has seen the joys of the desert,
appealing. A number of '29ers still own a
Enjoyed the pleasures of night,
"Calcite" painting (his chosen nom de
Reveled in warmth of sunshine,
plume), silent testimony to J im's friends
Knew the gods of his desert were
helping him out again.
right.
But sales were not too good in '29.
There were too many professional artists
He lone-wolfed life in its living,
in the area. So J im decided to try his luck
Yet he had no hermit's degree.
selling along the highway. He hit the
He wished no crowds around him;
road, setting up along U.S. 66 in the
The lone wolf alone is free.
Cadiz area, traveling much as he had
years before. He was far too old to go
Now come the years in their closing;
back to living in his truck, and he
The skeletal remains of abandoned mines No regrets for the wins, or the loss
worried!
and towns in the Cerbat Mountains and Of a lifetime spent in the seeking.
other barren ranges in western Arizona And indeed, old age and "soft living"
along the Colorado River are visited by No word of bearing a cross.
at the movie set made J im realize that he
the author. Lavishly illustrated with rare
old photos. Large format. Standard could no longer go on that way. The old
A man whose steps you now follow,
edition is $2.95. age of the truck had a bit to do with that
But follow in high powered cars.
decision, too.
Beautiful 91/2x12% hardcover edition He dreamed of trails untrammeled.
contains 15 four-color reproductions of So — back to our hospital at Pill Hill.
You dream of a highway to Mars.
etchings by noted Roy Purcell. $9.95 Jim well knew we had a five-acre home-
stead with a tiny cabin on it. After a few
Limited autographed Collector's Edition
includes (in addition to the 15 reproduc- never go into San Bernardino. He had days of hints too broad to be ignored, we
tions) a numbered and signed original done "something" years before, and if offered the cabin (pretty primitive hous-
etching by Roy Purcell. This volume is the authorities ever caught him, he ing, but housing) to Jim for his tempor-
hard bound and inserted in a handsome,
gold-embossed slip jacket. $60.00. would go to prison. He also admitted ary use. Temporary turned out to be the
that London was "not exactly" his real last 11 years of his life. He spent those
Please add 50c for postage/handling name. years painting and, finally, writing his
Calif, residents please add 6%state sales tax poems, while a succession of friends con-
He was finally prevailed upon to apply
Order from for the Social Security card. He applied tinued to provide most of his basic
as G.C. London, and knocked about 10 needs, from flu shots to cast-off brushes
Magazine Book Shop years off his real age on the application. and half-used oil paints.
P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California92260 When the card arrived, Jim visibly After his death in the winter of 1968-
1569, when we cleaned out the cabin — more graciously." And true to his packrat philosophy, he
its contents mostly Desert Magazine, But, somehow, I think Jim understood always gave something in exchange for
Ai izona Highways, and California Divi- and was pretty satisfied with his life as what he received. Looking back, I incline
sion of Mines publications — we found he lived it. He never surrendered his to J im's belief: Since in so many ways he
h i . poems. Among them Old Runty, precious independence until his final gave us more than we gave him, there
cl<arly autobiographical, caught at our ambulance ride to the county hospital. was, truly, no charity involved. •
hearts the most:
2ND ANNUAL
lagged and dirty describes him,
Frayed with the living of years.
, \n independent dependent
Immune to your praise or your jeers, American Indian & Cowboy Artists
.'•uch is the outward appearance,
Such is the shield that he built:
A shield that leaves him defenseless—
WESTERN ART
Your barbs all sink in to the hilt. EXHIBITION & SALE
It's hard to think he was younger, Displayed in the San Dimas Civic Center
A boy that once must have been,
i :njoying the joys of the joyous, APRIL
Not knowing the meaning of mean. Lyle V. Ball
i -lis youth was spent in the searching,

Seeking for minerals in rock.
28293O
Sponsored by the
Bill Bender
Parker Boyiddle
Easy Cheyno
Andy Dagosta
Austin Deuel
Martin Grelie
living his life to the desert, Roy Hampton
And hearing old Lady Luck talk. SAN DIMAS William Hoffman
Steve Hubbell
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 3 Theron Imlay

James R. Johnson
U Wayne Justus
i-lis findings were very meager Open to the Public Charles S. La Monk
Richard Lutrell
Ken Mansker
In copper and silver and gold. Artists Reception and Awards Juan H. Martinez
Lloyd Mitchell
/et his living of life was freedom, Banquet By Invitation Richard A. Myer
JackOsmer
Jimi Reyes
A wealth that seldom is sold. Mail request for Norberto Reyes
Hank Rlchter
He made the rush to the Klondike, Information and Reservations to: Floyd S.Tomlln
David Villasenor
Surrendered to bugs that bite, San Dimas Chamber of Commerce Joseph Waano-Gano
Joseph WhiteCloud
flushed to the hills of Goldfield Box 175, San Dimas, California 91773 Plus Guest Artists
And the calling of Rhyolite. Phone (714) 599-1102
fook part in the booms of the

boomtowns
And the booms took part of him.
He pulled himself up the ladder
And fell well over the rim. New revised editions of MEXICO Guide
ilroken and hungry and weary, and BAJA CALIFORNIA Guide by Cliff
A grin on his face to the sun; Cross. All-n w, enlarged and updated.
A hundred ventures and failures; MEXICO Guide contains 210 maps, 675
The goal, the winning of one. photos; BAJA Guide includes new
Transpeninsula Highway and gas avail-
he song now comes to its ending, able in Mexico; 60 maps, 450 photos.
Old eyes still seeking the hills. $4.95 each.
'"he find is yours for the taking —
His profit, the prospector's thrills.
NOW
IN
Reading that poem, a local art dealer STOCK
who had helped Jim a great deal said,
w t h tears in her eyes, " I t makes me feel
Order from
badly about the time I told him I
wouldn't handle his paintings."
Magazine
A lot of us wept a bit about our "inde-
pendent dependent," and shared a few
Box 1318, Palm Desert, CA 92260
guilt feelings. " W e should have done
Calif, residents please add 6%state sales tax
more," or " W e should have done it
D .sert/April 1978
S
TATE ROUTE 89 over Monitor Pass
wasn't built for those in a hurry. It
packs a lot of climbing and an even
steeper descent into 17 kinky miles. But
it is uncrowded and passes through some
of California's most rugged, unspoiled
scenery.
Completed in 1954, the Monitor Pass
route closed a gap in California's high-
way system. It provided a direct link be-
tween Markleeville, the tiny hamlet that
serves as Alpine County's seat of gov-
ernment, with Bridgeport, the only
slightly larger seat of Mono County,
without the necessity of traveling out of
the state. Weather providing, that is.
For Alpine County is aptly named. This
is high country with the actual pass at
8,314 feet. Winter comes early and fre-
quently lingers until late spring.
But once the snow has melted a mass-
ive carpet of wildflowers tints the hill-
sides and meadows. Lavender larkspur,
sunny yellow buttercups, and wild
onions, shading from a delicate pink to
creamy white, are but a few of the many
species which mingle in a palette of
rainbow colors.
Although the highway offers a good
glimpse at nature's spectacular dis-
play, the show off the road is even
better. To reach the back country you
can take either the Morning Star or the
Leviathan Road. Both are dirt roads
which join together north of the highway
to form a loop drive through Toiyabe
National Forest lands. In addition to
scenery and wildflowers, the loop winds
through some of Alpine County's color- cent of Monitor Canyon. During the first famous ironclad ship which had been vic-
ful mineralized mountains and past the few miles the highway closely parallels torious in the Civil War battle of Hamp-
sites of early day mining operations. the waters of Monitor Creek. The Morn- ton Roads.
Both roads are graded from time to ing Star Road takes off from the high- The camp thrived during the 60s and
time, but it is advisable to check on cur- way approximately two miles up the can- 70s, its economy bolstered by activity in
rent conditions at the Markleeville Ran- yon and is indicated by a Forest Service the Monitor-Mogul mining districts.
ger Station. One stretch of the Morning sign. Communications to the outside world
Star Road is especially rough and rocky, This spot was also the location of the were established via a telegraph line
and at times not recommended for ordi- once bustling mining camp of Monitor, from Genoa, Nevada, and for a while
nary passenger vehicles. Even our Jeep although it now teases the imagination to there was a daily stage line, again
once bogged down in a snowdrift, pre- picture a two-story hotel, a saloon, a weather permitting. The editor of its
venting us from making the entire loop newspaper office, and a dozen or so weekly newspaper, the Monitor Argus,
during a 4th of July outing. other buildings squeezed into the narrow boasted that Monitor was the best be-
Six miles south of Markleeville, State confines of Monitor Canyon. Established haved town in the state, his opinion
Route 89 turns east and begins its as- in 1862, the town was named for the based on the fact that there had been no
honor of its new benefactor. Two hotels
were still standing in 1920, but during
the ensuing years practically all evi-
dence of Monitor has disappeared.
Several miles from the site of Monitor,
on a steep hillside above the Morning
Star Road, a frozen cascade of brightly
colored tailings marks the location of the
by Mogul District's richest mine, the Morn-
ing Star. A weathered structure that
BETTY
once housed the blacksmith shop stands
SHANNON
in front of the tunnel entrance.
Work began on the Morning Star in
1863. Initially it was developed by a 225-
foot shaft and the 1,200-foot tunnel.
However, the ore deposit, which yielded
copper, silver, and a little gold, like
other deposits in the district, was diffi-
cult and expensive to work. Some of the
richest ore was shipped half way around
the world to Swansea, Wales for pro-
cessing, and in spite of the high cost of
transportation this tactic proved profit-
able to the Morning Star's owners for
several seasons. The Morning Star has
been credited with a total production of
$600,000 during the first quarter century
that it was worked.
However, it and adjacent properties
have continued to attract attention peri-
A frozen cascade odically up to the present time. Ore
of brightly colored from the nearby Alpine Mine was sent to
tailings marks the Panama-Pacific Exposition in San
one of Alpine Francisco in 1915 where it assayed over
County's richest $100 a ton in gold and silver. A new tun-
mines, the nel had been driven on the Morning Star
Morning Star. claim in 1914 and additional tunnel work
was done there in the 1920s. Curtz Con-
fights, no fires, no horse races, and no proved to be of a low grade. Although solidated, which owned the claims on
drunks during a 4th of July celebration. lumber was readily at hand and there Morning Star Hill at that time, erected
Indeed, a unique achievement for a fron- was plenty of water power to drive the several new buildings, including a bunk
tier mining camp! stamps, drills, concentrators, and hoist- house for 35 men, an office, and a mill of
After 25 years of development, un- ing works, the abundance of these re- 50 tons capacity. A company owned
resolved difficulties with ore reduction sources barely compensated for the power plant on the east fork of the
and red ink on the books caused most metallurgical problems with the ore, the Carson River provided power for the
mining operations to grind to a halt. Al- arctic winters, and the rugged landscape. mining and milling operations.
though gold and silver had been found Monitor's population drifted away A few years back we camped over-
throughout both districts, much of it oc- during the 1880s and the post office night at the Morning Star. It turned out
curred in a complex copper arsenic ore closed in 1888. A decade later, however, to be a delightful spot to enjoy the won-
which defied traditional milling a Dr. Loope, representing a group of ders of nature. Hummingbirds hovered
methods. eastern investors, brought new money to at arm's length, drinking the nectar of
With the exception of several proper- Monitor Canyon. The town was revita- Sierra Forget-me-nots. At sunset we
ties most of the ore discoveries had also lized briefly, and renamed Loope in watched a huge buck browse in the mea-
Desert/ April 1978 33

Left: A swallowtail
butterfly sips nectar
from a Snow Plant.
Right: The ore car
trestle and tailings
dump at the
dow below. With the onset of dusk a
Morning Star Mine.
Poorwill swooped down from the hillside
Below: The Morning
above, hungrily scooping up the mosqui-
Star's blacksmith shop.
toes which buzzed above our heads. And
long after the stars had appeared the munities. The open slopes are typical of forested areas. One of the west's most
flying insect trap continued to serenade the Nevadan or Great Basin biotic zone unusual and probably its most dramatic
us with its soft "Poor-will-o" call. But where sagebrush is the predominant plant, the saprophytic Snow Plant
since that memorable summer evening plant. But for a few brief weeks the drab pushes up through the humus of the
there has been a renewed interest in the hillsides are transformed into a million forest floor much like a stalk of
minerals still within Morning Star Hill dots of brilliant color by masses of sul- asparagus. But there the resemblance
and several years ago a new No Tres- phur flowers, Indian paintbrush, Sego ends. The all scarlet plant produces no
passing sign appeared on the property. lilies, and at least a half dozen other chlorophyll, but lives entirely on de-
Beyond the mine the road climbs species. caying matter. Since its numbers are
sharply and within the brief course of Groundsel, Western wallflower, and relatively limited and it is so easy to spot
five or six miles it meanders through a the leathery wild peony are a few of the among its somber forest surroundings, it
patchwork of three distinct plant com- neighbors found in the shadows of the is protected from picking and wanton de-
struction by a state law.
Wild iris, pungent wild onions, butter-
cups, and shooting stars are among the
flowers which compete for every inch of
growing space along several small
streams and in the meadows. On one trip
over the Morning Star Road I counted 27
different species of wildflowers in
bloom, all within several yards of the
road.
At the junction of the Morning Star
Road with the Leviathan Road a right
turn will take you back to the highway.
That's a distance of about three miles. A
left turn leads to the Leviathan Mine. A
sign indicates that the road to the mine is
a private road, but on our most recent
outing the road was open to the public.
The Leviathan Mine was first worked
as a copper mine in the 1860s. A little
gold was also recovered from the copper
ore. Two tunnels, one 600 feet, the other
1,000 feet in length, marked the initial
development of the mine.
34 Desert/ April 1978
Have you any idea
how much America's
colleges mean to you?
It was college-based research tomorrow's problems: Energy. Trans-
and college-trained minds that portation. Health. City planning.
gave us electronic computers, tele- International relations.
vision, spacecraft. That conquered But only if you help. America's
polio, smallpox, diphtheria. That colleges are in deep financial trouble.
developed new strains of rice and They cannot train minds for
wheat to help < tomorrow unless you
feed the world's make it possible now.
hungry. % So give them a hand.
And it will be v* The help you give today
today's college-trained will make tomorrow's
minds that will solve world a better one.
Make America smarter.

In 1931, after years of lying idle, the
Lrviathan was reopened. Only this time
Give to the college of your choice.
interest in the mine shifted to its
Council lor Financial Aid to Education, me ( E < E»T!I A Public Service ol This Magazine
d( posits of sulphur. The Leviathan Sul- 680 Filth Avenue New York NY 10019 A l l Cexncil & The Advertising Council
p mr Company extracted moderate

amounts of the yellow mineral during
1"33 and 1934. In 1952 Anaconda Cop-
pi r Company acquired the property. A
y< ar later the big copper company be-
gan mining in earnest, converting to an
0|>en pit operation. The sulphur was
trucked to Anaconda's plant at nearby
Y ;rington, Nevada, where it was used in
the manufacture of sulphuric acid need-
ed for the treatment of low-grade copper
oies.
Once again the Leviathan is silent, a
g gantic, gaping wound in the earth.
P ^rhaps, in time, the scar will heal. But
fcr now its ocher walls are barren and
sterile, the devastation a mute contrast
tc the living forest on the rim above.
The Morning Star loop drive offers a
delightful opportunity to enjoy several
h'>urs in the back country. For a longer
slay there are some good, but unim-
p oved campsites in the wooded areas.
The wildflowers are usually at their best
the last week in J une or the first week in
July. But should you miss the flowers,
N lother Nature puts on another spectac-
ular show in the fall. Stands of quaking
a: pen wind up the season with a last
glorious blaze of color. Then the Monitor
P iss country goes to sleep for the long,
Icng winter. • SVRS , H?S GrOOO ON SKIES . QUT, HOW
4BOVT HIS W/1.0 MOONS ? '*
D< sert/April 1978
Rescue
by
Pine
Nuts by RONALD M. LANNER
M A S T WOODLANDS of low pines and In his book, Naufragios y Comentarios Escalante's journal, led into western
w junipers are scattered across the Cabeza de Vaca later told of the Indians Colorado, across Utah, and (in abandon-
| mountains and mesas of the Ameri- of southern New Mexico: ment of their original plan) south and
can Southwest. The pines are called east into Arizona and back to Santa Fe.
pinon pines, because of their large They ate prickly-pear fruits
and pine nuts: there are in that On September 4, 1776, the explorers
edible seeds or nuts, pinones in Spanish. country small pine trees and their accepted chokecherries and pinon nuts
The common pine of the southern Rock- cones are like little eggs, but the from three Ute women and a child. Later
ies and the Colorado Plateau is known to nuts are better than those of Castile they met other Indians gathering pine
botanists as Pinus edulis, or the pinon. because they have very thin shells."
nuts along the edge of the Great Basin in
Further west in the Great Basin is found The Castilian pine nuts that Cebeza de Utah, but the friars had little interest in
Pinus monophylla, the singleleaf pinon. Vaca mentions came from the Italian these tribes and repeatedly inquired
Pinon nuts are large — up to a half inch stone pine, a tree of southern Europe. about other tribes that grew corn for
in length — and soft-shelled. They are They are a rich protein source and a de- their subsistence. Corn-planters were
tasty and nutritious, and were an im- licious confection of Mediterranean cui- considered more civilized and thus more
portant source of food to the Indians for sines, but their shells are extremely easily converted to the Faith.
thousands of years before the arrival of thick and cannot be cracked in the teeth. But by mid-October the Spaniards
the white man. When the Spanish adventurers came were low on food and were suffering dis-
But these nutritious pine nuts have upon the nut-gathering Indians, they comfort from the cold. They had to con-
also played a part in the history of white were hungry and exhausted, and at least centrate on salvation of the body as well
exploration in the West, and may have one historian has credited the avail- as the soul. On the nineteenth, Indians,
saved the lives of some prominent early ability of pine nuts with their very who called themselves the Yabuincariris,
travelers. survival. brought the hungry aliens many bags of
The first Europeans to taste the nut of Almost two and a half centuries later, pine nuts as well as grass seeds and
the pinon pine were also the first white another party of Spaniards was nour- cactus fruits. Even this good luck had its
visitors to the Southwest. They were ished by the nuts of Pinus edulis. In 1776 costs, if we can credit Escalante's diag-
Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca and his the Franciscans Fray Francisco Atanasio nosis, for a few days later Lorenzo Oli-
three companions, who from 1528 to Dominguez and Fray Silvestre Velez de vares, having become uncontrollably
1536 wandered westwards across the Escalante struck north from Santa Fe in thirsty from eating too many pine nuts,
continent from their shipwreck on the search of a safe route to the California stayed out of camp all one night in
Gulf of Mexico. missions. Their route, as described in search of water, causing his companions
Pinon-juniper woodlands
commonly clothe the slopes of
Nevada's Mountain ranges.
frying pans on and gave them the

best supper we could. Captain Bart-
leson, who when we started from
Missouri was a portly man, was re-
duced to half his former girth. He
said, "Boys, if ever I get back to
Missouri I will never leave that
country. I would gladly eat out of
the troughs with my hogs."
History does not record whether Cap-
tain Bartleson ever got his wish, but if he
did, he had pine nuts to thank for the
opportunity.
The most dramatic rescue attributed
to pine nuts occurred in the mountainous
area of northern California.
Winter came early to the Sierra Neva-
"much worry." tober 7 he was found by a column of da in 1846. On October 28 of that year,
By October 23, the party was sick from Spanish soldiers under Captain Fran- five feet of snow was hindering the climb
grass seed and weak from hunger, but cisco Amangual. The soldiers were not a of a beleaguered group of California-
w is able to buy a few days' supply of search party. They were exploring a bound emigrants — the Donner-Reed
pine nuts from local Indians. Escalante's route from San Antonio, Texas, to Santa party. Already weak from hunger and
journal for October 29, written while he Fe, and came upon the boy purely by plagued by deaths, these pioneers were
w is camped on the Colorado River, chance. soon to be halted by the early storms and
poignantly expresses the plight of his Pine nuts have not saved Spaniards forced into winter quarters at Donner
party: only, but Anglos further north as well. Lake. The tragic story of this band has
The history of the settlement of Cali- often been told, but historians have
Not knowing when we might failed to emphasize that the ultimate
leave this place, and having con- fornia might well be very different if not
sumed all the flesh of the first for the nut of the singleleaf pinon, Pinus rescue of the survivors — more than 40
horse, and the pinon nuts and other monophylla. Here are the words of John men, women, and children — was by the
things we had purchased, we or- Bidwell, who led the first emigrant grace of a half-a-cup of pine nuts.
dered another horse killed.
wagon train to California in 1840: On December 16, 1846, 15 of the
Eventually, partly on the strength they party, calling themselves the "Forlorn
We were now camped on Walker
derived from further supplies of pine Hope," made a desperate final attempt
River, at the very eastern base of
nuts, Escalante's party arrived safely the Sierra Nevadas, and had only to cross the Sierra for help from the
bi'ck in Santa Fe. two oxen left . . . Looking back on California settlements. Carrying only six
Their familiarity with pine nuts stood the plains we saw something days' supply of food they blundered
the Spaniards in good stead, as shown coming . . . To make a long story through the deep drifts on improvised
short, it was the eight men who had
al .o by the experience of Juan Cristo- snowshoes until they came upon an In-
left us nine days before. They had
bal, a boy of 10 or 12, in 1808. Juan's gone farther south than we, and had dian village on the tenth of January.
village in New Mexico had been attacked come to a lake, probably Carson Several of them had perished on the
b> Apaches, and the boy taken captive. Lake, and there had found Indians, way. For a week they rested under the
For a month he lived as a prisoner, but who supplied them plentifully with care of the friendly Indians. But even a
fish and pine nuts . . . The men had week's rest and their diet of acorn bread
We s finally able to make his escape. It
eaten heartily of fish and pine nuts
We s early October. For almost a week he and had got something akin to cho- brought scant improvement to men and
wandered furtively through the wood- lera morbus. We ran out to meet women half-dead of hunger and
la ids, subsisting on ripe pinons. On Oc- them and shook hands, and put our exposure. The leader of the Forlorn
Disert/April 1978 37
Hope, William H. Eddy, was sickened by dian guides. He covered 18 miles that
WORLD'S acorn bread and unable to keep it down. day to reach the cabin of Colonel H.D.
SMALLEST PENNY Years later Eliza P. Donner Houghton Richey, and for six of those miles the
told how Eddy gained back his strength trail was marked with his blood. A relief
World's smallest Penny, 2-side on January 17, 1847: party was immediately formed which
replica (»/4" dia.) Shiny Lincoln next day rescued the six surviving mem-
. . . the chief with much dif-
Penny. Solid Copper. $1.00. bers of the Forlorn Hope. A later relief
ficulty procured for Mr. Eddy, a gill
of pine nuts which the latter found party penetrated the snows of Donner
MINI-PENNY so nutritious that the following Lake the following month. The success of
morning, on resuming travel, he the rescue efforts can be attributed to
Box 19531 was able to walk without support.
Indianapolis, Indiana 46219 the nutritive value of a handful of pine
After leaving the village, Eddy alone nuts. The Donner party may have been
of the party was able to continue with In- saved by the nuts of local digger
pines [Pinus sabiniana), or of singleleaf
pinon traded from the nearby Washo.
Why didn't these hard-pressed emi-
GOKDON'S grants collect pinon nuts along their

route through Nevada? During the
height of the pinon season they passed
Mineral Pilot Peak, the Ruby Mountains, Battle
5555 Atlantic Ave., Long Beach, Calif. 90805 Mountain, and the Humboldts. On Oc-
Phone (213) 428-6496 tober 19 they were at Wadsworth, at the
Open Monday thru Friday, 9 to 5:30—Saturday 9 to 5
foot of the Virginia Range. At any of
Headquarters for: these places they could have gathered a
stock of pinon nuts that would have seen
• Lapidary Supplies • Jewelry Making • Rockhound Supplies
them through the winter, but they did
• Silver & Gold Casting Machines • Cut Stones • Rough Rock
not try. Their journals never mention
Write for FREE ALL NEW GEM SHOPPER
pinons. Were they ignorant of the value
of pine nuts, despite the experiences of
earlier travelers? Did their hostility to
the Indians they encountered along their
346-8113 route discourage the Indians from offer-
ing pinons in trade, as they had done
with Bartleson and Fremont? We can
MOTOR only speculate on their failure to live off
LODGE the bounty of the nut pines.
75-188 Highway 111, Indian Wells, California 92260 What about today? In this era of ultra-
processed, plastic-wrapped, hydrogen-
ated, homogenized and synthesized
foods, is there a place for wild nuts
gathered from, the cones of little desert
pines? Can the Indian's staff of life still
save westerners in extremis?
Kelly Warren would say yes, with
emphasis. Kelly was a 14-year-old deer
hunter who got lost on the San Carlos In-
dian Reservation in Arizona. It was the
fall of 1974. For four days he wandered
in the woodlands, like J uan Cristobal 166
years before. And, like Juan Cristobal,
he lived on the pinon nuts he was able to
shake from the cones until he was re-
First Phase of Our Remodeling united — not with the Spanish cavalry —
but with his parents.
Program Now Completed So the hungry traveler who happens to
be in the Southwestern woodlands
THE DESERT'S during the nut season can join 400 years'
MOST FAMOUS BISTRO good company when he tastes the fruit of
the pine. Raw or roasted, it can be a
346-2314 life-safer. •
3{
CEDAR BREAKS bonus at Cedar Breaks — beautiful
TREASURE HUNTERS
Continued from Page 19 Brianhead agate. The locale is less than
— PROSPECTORS —
a mile from the Monument's northern
Metal-Mineral Detectors
boundary. (See map.) The agate occurs
DREDGES
- much as it was over a century ago on the " w h i t i s h " hills and slopes as float DRY WASHERS MAPS
when exploration of the region began as well as in veins. BOOKS TOOLS ASSAY KIT
and Mormons settled Parowan and Never was a collecting area easier to SLUICE BOXES MINERAL LIGHTS
LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT
C idar City. reach or good material easier to obtain. Send 25c for catalog to:
The Wheeler-Powell Surveys of 1872, Park on the left just before crossing a
AURORA
directed attention to the colorful, geolo- small creek. In the creek and along its 6286 BEACH Bl VD.
gic formation now known as Cedar banks, colorful jasp-agate is waiting to BUENA PARK, CALIF. 90620
Beaks. Extensive topographic records be collected. The basic agate is clear to [714] 521-6321
oi the region were made along with de- milky white and it contains inclusions of COE PROSPECTOR SUPPLY
9264 KATELLA
tailed reports on wildlife, flora and geo- jasper in varying shades of red, purple,
ANAHEIM, CALIF. 92804
logical observations. In 1905, the region black, yellow, pink, white and brown. [714] 995-1703
btcame part of the Dixie National Forest Patterns include moss and picture types.
and, on August 22, 1933, Cedar Breaks Large chunks of material will be found
b< came a National Monument. It is now weathering out of the white hill about Visit our Pioneer Date Garden
piotected and will remain a place of 300 feet northeast of the creek. Actually, Growers of Rare & Unusual
b< auty for all to enjoy. agate can be found on most of the Varieties of Dates
Under discussion at the present time whitish ground throughout the region
is a proposal to declare 75 percent but the best material occurs in the lo- Say It with Dates
(4 830 acres) of the Monument a Wilder- cales indicated on the map. from
n<-ss Area. A final environmental state- Creek collecting is fun as the
ment has been completed by the Na- specimens are "washed" and the colors
tional Park Service. Land already de- easy to see. The white ground is a clay
v< loped for visitor use and the rim area
w l l not be affected. The geological na-
and very soft and slippery when wet. It
will stick to your boots until your height
DATE GARDENS
Write for Brochure
t i r e of the Monument and its location has been raised a couple of inches!
P.O. BOX 757 • THERMAL, CALIFORNIA 92272
make it a good candidate for a wilder- This locale is outside of the Monument
n<ss designation. This would prevent but within the Dixie National Forest. The
any future development or commercial area was not posted and there was no
u; e of its still pristine grandeur.
PARADISE LODGE
indication of any claim. Collecting is for
To really enjoy and "see the Breaks"
yc u will need to walk the easy trails and
hobby use only. Please limit the amount
of material you collect. We were quite
Travel Trailer
visit all the points of interest. This can- impressed by the lack of litter in this & Camper Park
not be done in just one day. Yet, Park area and hope our readers will do their COMPLETE HOOKUPS
R inger Kevin Mansor told us most visi- part to keep it this way. 15 MILES NORTH OF BISHOP
tors do make Cedar Breaks a one-day We found the magnificent scenery at ON LOWER ROCK CREEK
t r p and seldom stay overnight. Un- Cedar Breaks more than rewarding. The • Fishing at your Campsite
fortunately, vacationers try to "cram too rainbow of color and form is ever chang- • Overniters Welcome
much" into their trip and only have fleet- ing, as sun and clouds spotlight the • Daily, Weekly, Monthly Rates
ing glimpses of the places they visit. amphitheater in varying light and • Restaurant & Cocktail Bar
shadow. Along the trails, the quiet hush • Housekeeping Cottages
Stay and relax a while at uncrowded
• Hiking - Nature Trails
G'dar Breaks where there is unlimited of the forest was soothing to the soul,
• Storage Area - Low Rates
b< auty to behold. Enjoy the magnificent while the occasional chatter of "little • Secluded Area
scenery from Sunset View and Chess- animals" and pleasant sounds of the
birds let us know we were among MILES TO . . .
m in Ridge Overlook. Park at Alpine Pleasant Valley
Pond Picnic Area and hike the easy trail friends. Reservoir 3
Tom's Place 8
tc the little lake. Leaflets for a Our fall trip to Cedar Breaks had been
Crowley Lake 12
self-guided tour are available here. You a first but others will follow. We must Mammoth 25
can expect the wildflowers to be bloom- see the golden aspen groves in all their How To Get There
ing along the trail during July and glory; and what about the summer wild- Drive North of Bishop
on Hwy. 395 for 12
A igust. View the Cedar Breaks amphi- flowers? Cedar Breaks can easily cast a miles - take Lower
Rock Creek Road at
theater from North View — it is un- spell on those of us who love the wild, foot of Sherwin
usually colorful in the late afternoon. unspoiled beauty of the land. We can grade - then 3 miles
- Paradise Lodge.
You can also drive to the top of Brian- rejoice that, due to careful management
For Reservations, write, phone or drop in:
h« ad Peak (11,305 el.) for an aerial view by the National Park Service, our pro-
of the entire region. PARADISE LODGE
geny will find Cedar Breaks a quiet re-
Route 2, Bishop, California 935 14
Rock collectors will find an added fuge for man. • Phone (Area Code 714) 387 2370
De eit/April 1978 39
NO. 17 IN A SERIES ON
CALIFORNIA PALM OASES
fitlm Ulftslt
by DICK BLOOMQUIST
Two of the nine living

Washington/as found in
or near Palm Wash today.
These trees are at
P
ROM TRAVERTINE PALMS our trail the mouth of a tributary
swings southward, rounding the arroyo three miles up
Santa Rosas and entering an austere Palm Wash from the
but bewitching sector of the desert — Highway 86 bridge.
the Borrego Badlands. Viewed from the
paved highway, the Badlands appear the Salton Sea, these barren sedimen- stand the first two Washingtonias.
d solate and uninviting. Lying south of tary hills veined with sandy arroyos and Water sometimes surfaces in a shallow
the Santa Rosa Mountains and west of deep barrancas form one of the driest hole between the trees. One night in
and roughest regions within the Colo- 1962, while camped at this oasis, I awoke
rado Desert. Yet this country holds great to find a desert mouse looking over at me
fascination for the hiker and Jeeper, for from inside one of my shoes, which I had
within its borders are found fossils, con- placed on the ground a few feet from my
cretions, calcite and gypsum crystals, bedroll. Even today, when I think of the
petrified wood, the shoreline of old Lake Palm Wash country, this is the first in-
Cahuilla, Indian trails and campsites, cident that comes to mind. Four Palm
the lore of Pegleg Smith's lost black hills Spring lies out of sight behind a ridge
of gold, remote springs and tinajas (na- less than one mile southeast of this
tural tanks or rock basins containing point.
water), and several palm oases. Palm Concretions, those peculiar sandstone
Wash, Four Palm Spring, Lone Palm, formations scattered over much of the
Seventeen Palms, Five Palms, Una Badlands, litter the ground near the
Palma — these are the places where palms. Dumbells, donuts, sausages, and
we'll pause on our Badlands ramble. animals such as long-necked geese and
Palm Wash courses through the Bor- coiled rattlesnakes are among the many
rego Badlands from west to east, dis- forms concretions may assume. In some
charging its infrequent storm waters into places the land casts up rounded shapes
the Salton Sea. Only nine Washing- ranging from marble-size to huge
tonias now grow in or near the arroyo. In' spheres larger than pumpkins, whereas
the 1930s the total was nearly 30, but in other areas "abstract" configurations
there is less moisture today and the oasis are the rule.
is dying. Several dead trunks — some Three-quarters of a mile beyond the
prone, two still erect — can be seen in first palms, one dead trunk survives
the main watercourse and a short dis- along the right side of the arroyo. This
tance south of it. tree was still alive in 1962 when I first ex-
Three miles up sandy Palm Wash, and plored Palm Wash. Off to the southwest
a few yards to the left in a tributary, along a pole line stand four living Wash-
40 Desert/ April 1978
ing tonias, one a stoop-shouldered veter-
an South of this tree, and to the left of
th< pole line road, the old Truckhaven
Tr iM (impassable here) climbs the mesa.
Bcrrego homesteader A . A . ( " D o c " )
Desert Photography
Be ity pushed this route through the
Badlands between Borrego Valley and
Tr1 ickhaven near the Salton Sea in 1929. Many of the beautiful
iJeturning to Palm Wash and continu- scenes you have admired
irif upstream, we come to a seventh on the pages and covers
livng Washingtonia, the only one grow- of Desert Magazine are
in| in the arroyo itself. This weather- now available as large,
be iten sentinel, with three feet of its full color photographs to
routs exposed by erosion, is one and one- hang in your home or
ha'f miles west of the first group of office. These are
custom-made
photographic prints,
Mileage Log ranging in size from
0.0 Junction of State Highway 86 and 20x24 inches to 30x40
Imperial County Road S22 (Borrego- inches, individually
Salton Seaway) on west side of
Salton Sea. Drive north toward Indio
ordered to match the
on 86. color emphasis of your
2.1 Highway bridge #58-46 over Palm decor.
Wash. Turn left (west) up thfi wash.
Four-wheel-drive normally re- For full particulars,
quired.
5.3 First palms (two) in tributary on please write
left. Elevation roughly 150 feet
above sea level. George W. Service '
6.0 One standing dead palm trunk in Photography
the main wash. Four living Wash-
ingtonias grow a short distance to Post Office Box 1404
the southwest along a pole line. Palm Desert, CA 92260
6.8 One living palm in wash. There are
two other palms one-half mile north
of this point.
7.2 Tributary arroyo comes in on left.
One standing dead trunk is located
a few yards up this watercourse.
p;<lms. Two other veteran trees are lo-

POTTERY TREASURES
c.'ted about one-half mile to the north
The Splendor of Southwest
b yond a low ridge.
Indian Art.
An upper cluster once graced Palm
V> ash, also. Several dead trunks, one of Photography by Jerry Jacka,
Text by Spencer Gill.
them still standing, can be seen near the
rrouth of a small tributary which en- Masterpieces of Maria and POTTERY TREASURES
Nampeyo, creations of
ters the main watercourse from the left
contemporary potterymakers
four-tenths of a mile above the last living and treasures from prehistoric
tree. villages and centuries-old
Despite the fact that Palm Wash is be- pueblos. 85 inspiring
coming a ghost oasis, this region is still photographs in rich color.
oie of exceptional interest. Fragments of
p ;trif ied wood are sometimes found near
tlie arroyo, and concretions abound al-
fVost everywhere. To the west, within
$9.95
tl e Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, are
Please add 50c
Sheep Tank — a tinaja frequented by for postage/handling
b'ghorn sheep — and the now-
abandoned calcite claims where calcite Calif, residents please add
c ystals were mined for gunsights during 6% state sales tax
World War II. All this, and more, lies
within the "Badlands" of Borrego, a
g )od land of mystery and silence and
eichanted distance. •
Desert Magazine BookShopP.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260
D isert/April 1978 41
• BOOKS-MAGAZINES GEMS • REAL ESTATE
IIVE LONGER. How to feel healthier and live ROCKS, 60 tons, 15 kinds including 5 tons Mexi- SCENIC OCOTILLO CALIFORNIA. Lots, Homes
linger. Learn the secrets of a long life. Report can onyx, coral, obsidian, etc. Property being and Acreage in the Beautiful West Desert of
tells how the body's aging process can be slowed sold. Dick Blomgren, Box 13, Wofford Heights, Imperial County. Bell Realty—1147 Imperial
ci >wn. Shows you how to remain healthy and California93285. 714-379-8397 Hwy., Ocotillo, California 92259.
mentally alert at 80 . . . 90 . . . even 100 years of
i i t . Booklet MO-S51, send $1.50 to Thrifty
Needs and Gifts, 4322 Clifton, El Paso, Texas SHAMROCK ROCK SHOP, 593 West La Ca- BIG PROFITS! New Report tells you how, where
7'I9O3. dena Dr., Riverside, California 92501. Parallel to to buy land. Send $1.50. Gemini Cottage, 430
Riverside Freeway. Phone 686-3956. Come in West 34th, New York, N.Y. 10001.
and browse; jewelry mountings, chains, sup-
F1OCK CREATIONS for Fun and Profit. Book plies, minerals, slabs, rough material, equip-
has color photos and instructions. Colorful little ment, black lights, metal detectors, maps, rock 40 ACRES, scenic high desert, Mid Hills, N. of
figures from ordinary rocks. Have fun and make and bottle books. Mitchell Caverns, San Bernardino County, $300
money! $2.95 plus 30c shipping. The Owls per acre. (714)987-1805.
F rost, 1 Corral Lane, Space 17, Ashland, Ore-
Q i 97520. Dealer inquiries invited. JOJOBA PLANTS' MAY BE THE Gem of the
Desert. See Miscellaneous Column. SAN FELIPE HILLS—For Sale. We have large
parcels in the area described by Mr. Bill Jen-
COLD PROSPECTORS NEWS (magazine). Join nings in his article "San Felipe Hills Tell a Tale
tie- fun for profit. Send for free copy. G.P.N., of Black Gold," in the January issue of this ma-
P O. Box 507, Bonsall, California 92033. Include • MAPS gazine. $300/acre, terms. Some with oil and
2'.c postage. mineral rights. Pon & Co., (since 1891), P. O.
Box 1987, La Jolla, Calif. 92038. 714-454-8801.
OLD STATE, RAILROAD, COUNTY MAPS.
DESERT MAGAZINES. First issue, Nov. 37 to 70-110 years old. All States. Stamp for catalog.
S pt. 73. 12 years in binders. All perfect. Northern Map, Dept. DM, Eagle River, Wise.
$ 00.00. H. E. Cook, 35447 Avenue E, Yucaipa, 54521. • SEEDS & PLANTS
C .lifornia92399. 714-797-4428.
JOJOBA plantation planning. Seedlings, infor-
WESTERN BOOKS. Nice selection, both adult mation. Send $1.50 for packet 10-15 nuts and in-
and childrens. Send for free listing. Rod Smith,
• MINING structions for growing, prepaid. Natures Nur-
Western Image, Box3418, Reno, Nevada89505. sery, 213 E. Merced, Avenal, Calif. 93204.
ASSAYS—Gold and Silver $9.00. High quality

"ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MAGAZINES" 1946 spectrographic analysis for 65 metals $7.50.
thru 1972 complete (324). Make reasonable Free price list. Reed Engineering, 2166 College • TREASURE FINDERS
olfer. Don Waters, 1177 Third #6, Chula Vista, Ave., Costa Mesa, California 92627.
California 92011.
INSTANT RICHES—Explore ghost towns. Find
buried treasure, coins, relics, antiques, and
"DESERT MAGAZINES," 100diff., $24.00; 200 • PROSPECTING more. Goldak—the finest "Metal and Treasure
dlff., $45.00. 1968 on back. Don Waters, 1177 Locators since 1933." Send for free catalog.
Third #6, Chula Vista, California 92011. Goldak, Dept. D, 626 Sonora Avenue, Glendale,
LEARN GOLD PANNING from 38 years of ex- California 91201.
perience. Packet of black sand and generous
sample of gold and instructions, $2.00. Also TREASURE—Locate quarter mile away with ul-
• BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES small jagged desert nuggets $1.00 to $12.00 trasensitive locator — brochure free. Box 13441-
sizes. Prospector Jack Ward, Box 380, Sandia BUC, Tampa, Florida 33611.
HOW I MADE over $7,000 in 4 weekends; you Park, N.M. 87047.
can, too. No capital outlay. Full detailed Instruc-
tions $1.00. Yellowhan, P. O. Box 13164, St.
P' tersburg, Florida 33733. DRYWASHERS! GOLD CONCENTRATORS!
Guaranteed to recover minerals, gold. A hobby MISCELLANEOUS
that pays for itself! Write to: Nick's Nugget, P.
J( JOBA NUT—A new commercial desert crop. O. Box 1081, Fontana, Calif. 92335. (714)
Si a Miscellaneous Column. 822-2846. EUREKA! Sales letter so powerful it produces
orders fast! For copy, two quarters taped
stamped, addressed business envelope. Fan-
BEAUTIFUL CALIFORNIA Feather River gold ning, 803D Revere Village, Centerville, Ohio
nuggets. Among the world's finest grade. $3.00 45459.
CARTOON INSTRUCTION to $700.00 sizes. Send for price list. Prospector
Jack Ward, Box 380, Sandia Park, New Mexico
87047. HOW TO
": II) CARTOONS, ILLUSTRATIONS." Laughs
giiiorel Professional cartoonist's earn money PLACE YOUR AD
now instruction, advice! Four different 8V2" x COLLECTING JOJOBA Nuts can be rewarding. Mail your copy and first-insertion remittance
11 ' books $3.95. Postpaid first class. K. O. See Miscellaneous Column. to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine, Palm
Harris, P. O. Box 1567, Portland, Oregon 97207. Desert, Calif. 92260. Classified rates are 25c
per word, $5.00 minimum per insertion.
• REAL ESTATE Deadline for Classified Ads is 10th of second
• EQUIPMENT month preceding cover date.
PRECISION LAPIDARY Abrasive Compounds WIDOW MUST SACRIFICE raw land in Es-
fo tumbling, polishing and grinding. Send for calante Valley, Utah. Terms. 3,000 acres. Some
fne catalogue and price list. MDC Industries, oil and geothermal leases. Mrs. Loll (801)
40 West Glenwood Avenue, Philadelphia, PA. 277-4240. 4034 Solar Circle, Holladay, Utah
19140. Dealer Inquiries invited. 84117.
• MISCELLANEOUS ROADMAP TO CALIFORNIA'S PIONEER
BE'.LEW MEMORIAL ARTHRITIS Medical
Cli lie, D.H.S., Calif. Practice limited to the
Be lew Vaccine Method of treating arthritis.
De ert sun and climate. Phone 714-329-8723.
Write P. O. Box 305, D.H.S., California 92240.
MAPS!
DESERT OVERVIEW MAPS. Using
graphic maps as basic underlays, are two ex-
topo-
TOWNS, GHOST TOWNS AND MINING
CAMPS. Compiled by Varna Enterprises, 38" x
25" and scaled Southern California on one side
and Northern California on the other. Contains
detailed location of place names, many of which
are not on regular maps. $3.50.
ROADMAP TO CALIFORNIA'S LOST MINES

cellently detailed maps for back country explor-
PERSONALIZED LIFETIME GIFTS under ers of the Mojave and Colorado Deserts. Maps AND BURIED TREASURES. Compiled by
$1C .00. Send Stamped Envelope for brochure. show highways, gravel roads, Jeep trails, plus Varna Enterprises, 38" x 25" and scaled. South-
Paiis Mountain Press, 7631 Low, Huntington historic routes and sites, old wells, which are not ern California on one side and Northern Cali-
Be ich, California 92647. on modern-day maps, plus ghost towns, Indian fornia on the other. Contains detailed location of
sites, etc. Mojave Desert Overview covers from place names, many of which are not on regular
U.S. 395 at Little Lake to Boulder City, Nevada, maps. $4.00.
KE NO—LEARN how to compute 'way' and to Parker Dam to Victorville. Colorado Desert
'combination' tickets. Make your own game for Overview covers from the Mexican border to
ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK
les'. than $1.00. Send SASE for details. Mosby's, TOPOGRAPHIC MAPS. A set of 7 maps cover-
Joshua Tree National Monument to Banning to
Bo 336, Trona, California93562. ing the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, 8 V j " x
the Arizona side of the Colorado River. Be
1 1 ' " format, bound. $5.50.
certain to state which map when ordering. $3.00
each. JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL MONUMENT UP-
W ANTED: ALUMINUM advertising or political
MAP OF PIONEER TRAILS. Compiled by Varna DATED TOPOGRAPHIC MAPS. A set of 12
sewing thimbles. Give condition, wording and Enterprises, this is their new large map on maps covering the Joshua Tree National Monu-
prl se. J. C. Steen, 2368 Hartline Dr., Dallas, pioneer trails blazed from 1541 through 1867 in ment, 82"x11" format, spiral bound. $7.95.
Te ;as 75228. )k
ie western United States. Superimposed in red
on biack and white, 37" x 45". $4.00. Order maps today from
Ml GAVITAMINS FOR ARTHRITIS. Try For-
mula " N " with Vitamin B-3. Three Week Supply
$8 54 postpaid. R.A.F., 2411 Calle Linares,
Santa Barbara, California 93109. Desert Magazine Book Shop
P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert. California 92260
SP'KES($5 Each Postpaid) from the famous Please add 50c for postage/ handling Calif, residents please add 6% state sales tax
Ccoper River & Northwestern Railroad com-
pleted in 1911 and operating until 1939 hauling
on from the Kennlcott Mine near McCarthy,
Al iil a. Dell Wilson, Copper Center, Alaska REPLACEABLE SUBSCRIPTION FORM April 1978
99 73.
LJ Check here if you
M \KE MONEY playing poker. Expert reveals wish this issue replaced.
in! ide secrets. Learn how to become a constant
winner. Only $1.50. James March, 8035 South P. O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260
Sti wart, Chicago, Illinois 60620.
ENTER A NEW SUBSCRIPTION [] RENEW MY PRESENT SUBSCRIPTION
JCJOBA, JOJOBA, JOJOBA. Plant the wonder

sh ub of the desert. May become basis for liquid NAME
solar farms. Produces 50% oil nut. $1.00 for
se ids and information package. Electro-Mart-,
11 .00 Washington Blvd., Los Angeles, Calif. ADDRESS
90 I66.
i I SfcND GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO:
NAME
ADDRESS
Sign Gift Card: "From
i I SEND GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO:
NAME
ADDRESS
Preserve your copies in these
vinyl binders that hold 12
issues. Gold-stamped on the
cover and spine, and dated if Sign Gift Card: "From
you desire.
One Year $7.00
PAYMENT ENCLOSED BILL ME LATER
Two Years 13.00
ONLY Postpaid (Or 2 One Years)
[] ALSO SEND DESERT'S 12-ISSUE
DESERT MAGAZINE Three Years 19.00 HANDSOME BROWN VINYL BINDER FOR
Box 1318 (Or Three One Years) $4.50 (Includes tax and postage)
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 Foreign'subscribers add $2.00/year postage. Date Binder(s) with Year(s) [3 Undated
D -sert/April 1978 43
Send orders to
Box 1318
Palm Desert, California 92260
I OST MINES AND BURIED TREASURES OF GREENWATER, "GREATEST COPPER CAMP A NATURALIST'S DEATH VALLEY by Dr. Ed-
(HE WEST, Bibliography and Place Names— ON EARTH," by Harold O. Weight. Contem- mund C. Jaeger. In this revised third edition,
I i in Kansas West to California, Oregon, Wash- porary with the great Bullfrog District gold days Dr. Jaeger covers and uncovers some of the
ington and Mexico, by Thomas Probert. A fan- was this phenomenal camp at the edge of Death mysteries of this once humid, and now arid
I istic aid for the modern-day treasure hunter, Valley. Its discovery, meteoric rise, stock pro- trough. He tells of the Indian's of Death Valley,
this bibliography identifies treasure hoards and motion, its sudden death. Told by men who were the mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians,
mining claims by whatever name, and by what- there. Includes story of nearby Furnace. Paper- fishes, insects, trees, wild flowers and fossils.
( rer mischance. A wonderful research tool. back, 36 pages, 16 historic and modern photos, Paperback, 66 pages, $2.00.
Hardcover, 593 pages, $27.50. map. $1.00.
DESERT WILDLIFE by Edmund C. Jaeger is a GHOST TOWNS OF THE NORTHWEST by

I ARTHQUAKE COUNTRY by Robert lacopi. Norman Weis. The ghost-town country of the
New, revised edition brings maps and descrip- series of intimate and authentic sketches depict-
ing the lives of native animals of our South- Pacific Northwest, including trips to many little-
tive text up to date as nearly as practicable. Well known areas, is explored in this first-hand fact-
i i itrated, the book separates fact from fiction western deserts, from mammals to birds and
reptiles, as well as many of the lesser desert ual and interesting book. Excellent photogra-
and shows where faults are located, what to do phy, maps, Hardcover, 319 pages. $9.95.
in the event of an earthquake, past history and denizens such as land snails, scorpions, mille-
what to expect in the future. Large format, slick pedes and common insects. Paperback, well il-
lustrated, 308 pages, $2.95. MINES OF THE MOJAVE by Ron and Peggy
f iperback, 160 pages, revised edition is now
Miller covers the numerous mining districts run-
3 I.95. ning across the upper Mojave Desert from Tropi-
co, west of the town of Mojave, to Mountain
HISTORICAL ATLAS OF CALIFORNIA by War-
Pass, a little west of the Nevada border. Paper-
run A. Beck and Ynez D. Haase. Extensive docu-
back, 67 pages, $2.50.
r entation and pertinent detail make this atlas a
v iluable aid to the student, scholar and every-
one interested in the Golden State. 101 excellent MINES OF JULIAN by Helen Ellsberg. Facts
r aps present information on the major faults, and lore of the bygone mining days when Julian,
E irly Spanish explorations, Mexican land in Southern California, is reported to have pro-
j ants, routes to gold fields, the Butterfield and duced some seven million dollars of bullion.
F' my Express routes, CCC camps, World War II Paperback, well illustrated, $1.95.
I stallations, etc. Hardcover, extensive index,
I" i ily recommended, $9.95. THE CAHUILLA INDIANS OF THE COLORA-
DO DESERT: ETHNOHISTORY AND PREHIS-
THE SEA OF CORTEZ, The Gulf of California, TORY. Ballena Press Anthropological Papers
.... No. 3. Part I: Early Observations on the Cultural
B jit, and Mexico's Mainland Coast by Ray
C nnon and the Sunset Editors. A rich and color- Geography of Coachella Valley by Philip J.
ful text acquaints the traveler and outdoorsman AMERICAN INDIAN FOOD AND LORE by Car- Wilke and Harry W. Lawton, is an analysis of
W'th the history, people, climate and travel op- olyn Neithammer. The original Indian plants Cahuilla oral tradition of ancestral occupation at
p rtunities of this exciting wonderland.'Each of used for foods, medicinal purposes, shelter, Lake Cahuilla and the transition from lakeside to
the 12 regions that make up the Gulf of clothing, etc., are described in detail in this fas- desert adaptation around 400 years ago, and an
C lifornia is covered in a separate chapter with a cinating book. Common and scientific names, analysis of early ethnohistoric records prior to
special section on how to catch "Cortez fishes." plus descriptions of each plant and unusual the mid-1850s. Part II: Aboriginal Occupation at
L rge format, hardcover, 272 pages. $14.95. recipes. Large format, profusely illus., 191 Tahquitz Canyon: Ethnohistory and Archaeology
pages, $4.95. by Philip J. Wilke, Thomas F. King and Stphen
B i !K COUNTRY ROADS AND TRAILS, SAN Hammond, reconstructs Cahuilla settlement
DiEGO COUNTY by Jerry Set ad. Concentrating NEVADA OFFICIAL BICENTENNIAL BOOK adaptation at Tahquitz Canyon, near Palm
o the mountains and desert of So. California's edited by Stanley W. Paher. Many hours of Springs. Paperback, references, 13 figures, 73
Sin Diego County, there are trips to Palomar reading enjoyment for ghost towners and city pages, $4.95.
Mountains, the Julian area, the Cuyamaca dwellers alike. Over 200 authors are represented,
Mountains, the Laguna Mountains, and the including Nell Murbarger, Harold Weight and MEXICO'S WEST COAST BEACHES by Al and
fi 2 a Borrego Desert. Trips reachable by car, Stanley Paher who have been contributors to Mildred Fischer is an up-to-date guide covering
bi ycle or on foot. Paperback, 96 pages, illus- Desert Magazine. Chapters on agriculture, min- the El Golfo de Santa Clara to the end of the
ti tted with maps and photographs, $3.95. ing, banking and industry and transportation af- highway at Manzanillo. Excellent reference for
ford a cross-section on the Silver State. 247 the out-of-the-way beaches, in addition to the
GUIDE FOR INSULATOR COLLECTORS by original stories, 430 illustrations, maps, 528 popular resorts such as Mazatlan and Puerto
Ji i:<i C. Tlbbltts. This is the third and final book pages. Large format, hardcover, $15.00. Vallarta. Although traveling by motorhome, the
O! insulators by veteran bottle collector John Fischers also give suggetions for air, auto, ferry
Tibbitts. This third book has a revised price list CACTUS AND SUCCULENTS by the Editors of and train travel as well. Paperback, well illus-
and index to insulators described in the previous Sunset. This book gives growing requirements trated, 138 pages, $3.00.
tvvo volumes. However, each volume describes for over 150 varieties of these exotic, easy-to-
ir lulators not shown in the other books, so for a grow plants. They adapt to dry, warm tempera- HOPI KACHINA DOLLS [With a Key to Their
ci nplete roundup of all insulators, all three vol- tures, require little water, are fairly resistant to Identification!, by Harold S. Colton. Kachina
u les are needed. Books are paperback, averag- insects, and can withstand poor care for weeks. dolls are neither toys nor idols, but aids to teach-
ir ] 120 pages, illus., $3.00 each. Please state Many have unusual shapes, sizes and spiny ing religion and tradition. This is a definitive
V HICH VOLUME when ordering. bristles, along with colorful flowers. Large work on the subject, describing the meaning, the
format, many beautiful color photos, 80 pages, making and the principal features of 166 vari-
100 DESERT WILDFLOWERS by Natt Dodge. $2.95. eties of Kachina dolls. Line drawings of each va-
E.ch flower is illustrated with a 4-color photo- riety, plus color and b/w photos make it a com-
g i|ih and described in detail, where found, GHOST TOWNS OF THE WEST by Lambert plete guide to learn more of the richness of
b ioming period, etc. Habitats from sea level to Florin. This popular hard-back series is now American Indian culture. Paperback, 150 pages
4 iCO feet. Slick paperback, 64 pages, $2.00. available in paperback volumes. Rearranged $4.50. '
state by state, lavishly illustrated, handy to take
1 0 ROADSIDE WILDFLOWERS by Natt along while traveling. Please state which volume LAS VEGAS [As It Began — As It Grew] by
Dodge. A companion book and with the same when ordering —all priced at $3.95 each. Stanley W. Paher. Here is the first general his-
fc mat as 100 Desert Wlldflowers, this book lists Arizona; California; Colorado/Utah; Nevada; tory of early Las Vegas ever to be published. The
11 0 flowers found from 4,000 to 7,00-foot lev- Oregon. author was born and raised there in what, to
el . Also has 4-color photographs. Slick paper- many is considered a town synonymous with
b, * , 64 pages, $2.00. A LIGHT-HEARTED LOOK AT THE DESERT lavish gambling and unabashed night life. New-
by Chuck Waggin. A delightfully written and il- comers to the area, and even natives them-
SAN BERNARDINO MOUNTAIN TRAILS by lustrated book on desert animals which will be selves will be surprised by the facts they did not
John W. Robinson. Easy one-day and more rug- appreciated by both children and adults. The know about their town. Western Americana
g d hiking trips into the historic mountains. The sketches are excellent and, although factual, de- book lovers will appreciate tl e usefulness of this
1' ) hiking trails are described in detail and II- scriptions make the animals seem like human book. You don't have to gamble on this one!
lu .tiated so you will not get lost. Heavy paper- beings. Large format, heavy quality paper, 94 Hardcover, large format, loaded with historical
fa ck, 257 pages, $5.95. pages, $2.25. photos, 180 pages, $12.50.
4.
Desert/April 1978
Please add 50c per total order
for Handling/Postage
Calif, add 6% state sales tax
GOI DFIELD BOOM TOWN OF NEVADA by THE LIVES OF DESERT ANIMALS IN JOSHUA NEVADA GHOST TOWNS AND MINING
Stanley W. Paher. Nevada's greatest gold stam- TREE NATIONAL MONUMENT by Alden H. CAMPS by Stanley W. Paher. Covering all of
ped , Goldfield, prospered from 1903 until 1918. Miller and Robert C. Stebbins. An indispensable Nevada's 17 counties, Paher has documented
The author summarizes those boom days with a source and guide for everyone with an interest in 575 mining camps, many of which have been
fast moving text augmented by a careful selec- the desert life of Southern California. In addition erased from the earth. The book contains the
tion of unpublished historic photographs which to the actual faunal analysis of 141 resident greatest and most complete collection of historic
she / the crowds, the businesses, the ore and the animals of the desert, there are 149 illustrations photographs of Nevada ever published. This,
fanrvus Gans-Nelson fight of 1906. A map of the including 74 photographs, 58 black and white coupled with his excellent writing and map,
town in 1908 is bordered by contemporary ad- drawings, 9 maps and 8 color plates. Hardcover, creates a book of lasting value. Large format,
verl sements. Another map shows points of in- 452 pages, $28.50. 700 photographs, hardcover, 492 pages, $17.50.
tercut in the Goldfield area. Paperback, $1.95.
WESTERN GEM HUNTERS ATLAS by Cy
CHUCK WAGON COOKIN' by Stella Hughes. Johnson and son. A helpful book of detailed
THI COLORFUL BIJTTERFIELD OVERLAND Recipes collected straight from the source—cow-
STr GE by Richard Pourade and Marjorle Reed. maps showing gem and mineral locations, from
boy cooks. Contains Mexican recipes, instruc- California to the Dakotas and British Columbia
WH i 21 stagecoach paintings by Miss Reed, the tions for deep-pit barbecue and the art of using
tex concentrates on the Fort Yuma to San Fran- to Texas. Markings note private claims, gem
Dutch ovens for cooking everything from sour- claims (fee charged) and rock and gem locations.
cisc ) run of the tough Butterfield route. Album dough biscuits to Son-of-Gun stew. Paperback,
fori iat, heavy art paper, $6.50. Also suggested reading for more detail on areas
170 pages, $4.95. included and other rich areas not included in this
publication. Paperback, maps galore, collector's
WE LLS FARGO, The Legend byDale Robertson. library, 79 pages, $4.00.
In his own personal narrative style, without de-
par rg from known tact, Dale has recreated the
We is Fargo legend. Entertaining reading in ad- INDIAN JEWELRY MAKING by Oscar T. Bran-
dition to excellent illustrations by Roy Purcell. son. This book is intended as a step-by-step
Paj itback, 154 pages, $4.95. how-to-do-it method of making jewelry. An in-
triguing all-color publication that is an asset to
the consumer as well as to the producer of Indian
THi: OREGON DESERT by E.R. Jackrnan and jewelry today because it provides the basic
R./i. Long. Filled with both facts and anecdotes, knowledge of how jewelry is made so one can
this is the only book on the little but fascinating judge if it is well made and basically good de-
des irts of Oregon. Anyone who reads this book sign. Paperback, large format, $7.95.
wil want to visit the areas — or wish they could.
Ha li over, illustrated, 407 pages, $9.95.
WILD BROTHERS OF THE INDIANS by Alice
Wesche. Beautifully illustrated story for chil-
CALIFORNIA GEM TRAILS by Darold J. dren about the Mimbres potters of New Mexico.
He ry. This completely revised fourth edition is TURQUOISE, The Gem of the Centuries by Included are instructions for drawing the
the most authoritative guide for collectors of Oscar T. Branson. The most complete and lav- distinctive designs of the Mimbrenos which
roci s, gemstones, minerals and fossils. Profuse- ishly illustrated all color book on turquoise. adults, too, will want to use for their crafts.
ly illustrated with maps and contains excellent Identifies 43 localities, treated and stablized Large format, paperback, $4.95.
des Tiptive text. Paperback, $3.00. material, gives brief history of the gem and de-
tails the individual techniques of the Southwest
PH )TO ALBUM OF YESTERDAY'S SOUTH- Indian Tribes. Heavy paperback, large format, THE CREATIVE OJO BOOK by Diane Thomas,
W! ST compiled by Charles Shelton. Early days 68 pages, $7.95. Instructions for making the colorful yarn talis-
phi to col lection dating from 1860s to 1910 shows mans originally made by Pueblo and Mexican
prc pectors, miners, cowboys, desperados and Indians. Included are directions for wall-hung
TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF MEXICO: In ojos, necklaces, mobiles and gift-wrap tie-ons.
ore nary people. 195 photos, hardcover, fine gift Baja California and Around the Sea of Cortes,
itei i, $12.50. Well illustrated with 4-color photographs, 52
1825, 1826, 1827 and 1828, by Lt. R. W. H. pages, paperback, $2.95.
Hardy, R.N. An oldie but a goodie, an alltime
Bll OS OF THE SOUTHWESTERN DESERTS classic for the library of any Baja buff, written as
by uisse Thomas Smith. Thirty-one of the most a journal by one of the first non-Spanish visitors BAJA CALIFORNIA GUIDEBOOK by Walt
cor monly sighted birds of the Southwest are de- to this wild region. A faithful reprint with all the Wheelock and Howard E. Gulick, formerly
scriDed and illustrated in 4-color artist drawings. flavor of the original 150-year-old English edi- Gerhard and Gulick's Lower California Guide-
He ivy paperback, 68 page, $3.95. tion. Hardy supplied many of the place names book. This totally revised fifth edition is up-to-
still used in this area. Hardcover, an excellent the-minute for the Transpeninsular paved high-
20 MULE TEAM DAYS IN DEATH VALLEYby map, 558 pages, $20.00. way, with new detailed mileages and descriptive
Ha old O. Weight. Specialists and critics praise text. Corrections and additions are shown for the
thr account of the great borax wagons of the many side roads. ORV routes, trails and little-
EXPLORING DEATH VALLEY, Third Edition, known byways to desert, mountain, beach and
181 )s, the drivers and mules, the trail to by Ruth Kirk. A completely revised and
Mi'iave. Story of Borax Smith, Wm. T. Coleman, bay recesses. Folding route maps are color and
up-to-date comprehensive guide to the wonders newly revised for current accuracy. Indispens-
De ith Valley pioneers, Harmony Borax Works. of Death Valley National Monument. Details on
Fir t-hand stories. Includes reprint of Henry G. able reference guide, hardcover, $10.50.
where to go by car, by jeep and on foot, what
Ha vks" Report on Death Valley 1883. Paper- times of day are best, possible side trips. Illus-
ba< K, 48 pages, 33 historic and modern photos, THE NORTH AMERICAN DESERTS by Ed-
trated with maps and photos, 96 pages, paper- mund C. Jaeger. A long-time authority on all
m£ i. 5th ed. $1.00. back, $3.45. phases of desert areas and life. Dr. Jaeger's
Ht ..DORADOS, GHOSTS AND CAMPS OF RAILROADS OF ARIZONA VOL. I by David F. book on the North American Deserts should be
THE OLD SOUTHWESTby Norman D. Wels. Myrlck. More than 30 railroads of Southern Ari- carried wherever you travel. It not only de-
Thr: author takes you on a 7,000-mile tour of the scribes each of the individual desert areas, but
zona are presented, together with 542 nostalgic has illustrated sections on desert insects, rep-
Ol' Southwest, visiting some 67 ghost towns and illustrations, 55 special maps and an Index. A
ab ndoned mining camps, one never before tiles, birds, mammals and plants. 315 pages,
valuable travel guide and a reliable historical illustrated, photographs, line drawings and
me itioned in written history. 285 excellent reference. Large format, hardcover, 477 pages,
ph tos. Hardcover, 320 pages, $9.95. maps. Hardcover, $7.95.
$19.50.
THE ETHNO-BOTANY OF THE COAHUILLA CAMP AND CAMINO IN LOWER CALIFOR- WM. B. ROOD & RANCHO DE LOS YUMAS by
INI HANS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA by NIA: Explorations and Adventures on the Baja; Harold and Lucile Weight. For the first time the
Oi 'id Prescott Barrows. Although basically a 1908-1910, by Arthur W. North. A handsome three adventurous lives of this man from Illinois
stu iy of plants used by the Cahuilla Indians, new edition of an old favorite of many Baja Cali- are correlated. He was a Death Valley 49er Jay-
Bai rows' fascinating work is rich in material of fornia travelers, with new illustrations and all of
inl rest to the historian, anthropolgist, botanist, hawker; he mined in California and ranched
the author's original photographs. A classic south of Tucson; became a legendary figure
ge grapher and lay reader. Special Introductory account of land and sea travels in a raw territory
Mi-terlal by Harry W. Lawton, Lowell John Bean after his stand-off of a circle of Apaches. He
written after travels 70 years ago. Modern finally built his adobe on the huge Colorado
an William Bright. Paperback, 129 pages, writers use North as a starting place. Hardcover,
$5 )5. River ranch. Photos, maps, portrait. Paperback,
130 photographs, 346 pages, $20.00. $1.50.
De ert/Aprll 1976 45
"Letters Calendar of "Events
to the This column is a public service and there is no
charge for listing your event or meeting—so take
APRIL 15 & 16, Northside Gem and Hobby
Club's Annual Show. Demonstrations, ex-
"Editor
advantage of the space by sending in your an-
nouncement. We must receive the information hibits. Wendell High School Gymnasium,
at least three months prior to the event. Wendell, Idaho. Chairwoman: Mary Morlan,
826 Oregon St., Cooding, Idaho 83330.
Letters requesting answers must APRIL 1, Third Annual Revival of the Peg-
include stamped self-addressed envelope leg Liars Contest, Pegleg Monument, Borre- APRIL 28-30, 24th Annual Fast Camel Cruise.
go, Valley, California. 7:30 P.M. Free admis- For information write P. O. Box 526, Indio,
sion. Contestant's entry fee, 10 rocks. Calif. 92201. 714-347-9210 or 714-398-5773.
Liked the February Issue . . .
APRIL 8 & 9, Amador County Gem and Min- APRIL 29 & 30, Desert Gem Roundup of An-
I have been a faithful subscriber to Desert eral Society's 13th Annual "Cold Dust telope Valley. Annual Spring Show sponsored
Magazine since 1970, and I have truly enjoy- Days," County Fairgrounds in Plymouth, by Antelope Valley and Palmdale Gem and
d "every" issue. I have just finished reading Calif. Displays, dealers, demonstrations, Mineral Clubs. Fair Center Hall, A. V. Fair-
(he February issue, and feel it is the "best" field trips. Plenty of camping space right on grounds, corner of Division St. and Ave. " I , "
ever. the grounds with limited electrical hook-ups. Lancaster, Calif. Dealer spaces filled. Parking
The 16-page supplement on the Living and admission free. Field Trips 9 A M daily.
I )esert Reserve is better than excellent. I APRIL 8 & 9, Paradise Gem & Mineral Club's
have not been down to the Palm Desert area 24th Annual Show, "Paradise of Gems." Ve- May 6 & 7. Delvers Gem and Mineral Soci-
for three years. This issue made me realize terans Memorial Hall, Skyway at Elliot Road, ety's 28th Annual Show. Cerritos College
how much I miss the desert. Paradise, Calif. Dealer space filled. Chair- Student Center, 11110 Alondra Blvd., Nor-
There are truly some fine things going on in man: Cliff Kerns, P. O. Box 692, Paradise, walk, California.
>our area. (I have saved every issue since Calif. 95969.
MAY 6 & 7, 18th Annual Flower Show of the
1970.)
APRIL 8 & 9, the Waco Gem & Mineral Yucca Valley Garden Club, Yucca Valley
MARKDEVINCENZI,
Club's 18th Annual Show, Waco Convention Community Center, 57090 29 Palms High-
So. San Francisco, California.
Center, 201 Washington Ave., Waco, Texas way, Yucca Valley, California.
76701.
That February issue of Desert is the one
MAY 6 & 7, Canyon City Lapidary Society, El
ve been waiting for. I have tried to explain
Monte Gem and Mineral Club, Inc., La Puen-
to my folks back East just what the desert is Indian Artifact Identified? . . . te Gem and Mineral Club, "Million $ Gem
,ind why I love it, but never could really
Show." Building 22, Los Angeles County
c onvey my thoughts in words. This issue says In reference to Mary Frances Strong's Fairgrounds, Pomona, California.
il all. Do you have copies I can obtain to send article, "Valley of Little Smokes," in the Fe-
hack East? bruary issue, and the unidentified article of
MAY 13 & 14, Searchers Gem and Mineral
MRS. RALPH SCOTT, Indian make in the photo on page 45, I am
Society, Inc., 19th Annual Show, "Searchers
Needles, California. wondering if it could be the remains of a rab-
Gem Roundup." Retail Clerks Auditorium,
bit skin blanket. I have never seen one, but
8550 Stanton Ave., Buena Park, California.
i ditor's Note: Copies of this issue may be ob- have heard, and actually have read about
Free admission and parking.
i. lined by writing to our office at P. O. Box them. I have a 1950 California State book
1118, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260. Please in- written by Irmgard Richards, entitled "Early
MAY 20 & 21, Yucaipa Valley Gem & Mineral
< lude $1.00 per issue. California" in which is the following:
Society's 13th annual show, "The Rock-
" I n making a blanket of rabbit skins, an hound's Delight in ' 7 8 , " Yucaipa Valley Com-
Indian cuts skins in narrow strips. All the munity Center, First Street & Avenue B, Yu-
Mohave Rattlesnake... strips had to be cut with a strong knife. He caipa, Calif. Free admission and parking.
fastened the strips together to make one long
The article on the Mohave Rattlesnake strip. Two poles were stuck in the ground MAY 20 & 21, Norwalk Rockhounds's 14th
' Male Combat Dance" in the February issue about four feet apart. The long strip of rabbit annual Gem and Mineral Show for 1978,
i of particular interest to us. skin was passed around one pole and then Masonic Lodge, 12345 Rosecrans, Norwalk,
In March, 1976 we were camped just above around the other, back and forth. Then the' Calif. Free parking and admission.
frown's Crossing near Lake Alamo State worker took cords and wove them in and out
Park in Mohave County, Arizona. M y of the furry strips from top to bottom, close
MAY 20 & 21, May Festival of Gems sponsor-
v\ife,Edith, and I were walking some distance together. In this way he made a warm strong
ed by the Clendale Lapidary and Gem Soci-
fiom the campsite when we came upon two blanket. It was hard work to make such a
ety, Glendale Civic Auditorium, 1401 N. Ver-
rattlesnakes performing the same rite as de- blanket. All the strips had to be cut with a
dugo Rd., Glendale, Calif. Admission 50c;
scribed in the article. stone knife. The strips had to be sewed toge-
parking free.
We watched them for about five minutes ther with a bone awl. The cords had to be
vihen they sensed our presence and turned to knotted into the fur strips. It took a long time
I ok at us. Then they started to glide away. At to make such a blanket." MAY 20 & 21, World of Gems presented by
that time we called them Western Diamond- This may not be of any help, and I have no Berkeley Gem & Mineral Society, Contra
tuck snakes, but after reading the article and idea how much of the quoted school book is Costa College Student Activities Bldg., San
seeing the photo, we are not sure. They more than supposition, but the fact that Pablo, Calif. Admission, adults $1.00;
probably were the Mohave Rattlesnake "Early California" is a text book and the list children (6-12) 25c. Free parking.
version. of references is very long leads me to believe
Did we have a camera with us? Nope! the above description must be accurate. MAY 25, "Symphony in Flowers," sponsored
F.C.WILSON, MRS.LENORAP.CILKEY, by the Reno- Sparks Garden Clubs, Centen-
Dolan Springs, Arizona. Corcoran, California. nial Coliseum, Reno, Nv. Admission free.
EXPLORING OLD CALIFORNIA AND DAJA
Mil (
Qreat Heading from :
Copley Books, La Jolla, Calif. •;V;: ii.-yA iAJ.H;OBA"M
•
The Cave Paintings of Baja California

A dazzling report on a vast array of the great murals of The King's Highway in Baja California
an unknown people, filled with pages and pages of full Retracing the ancient Mission Road for the first time in
color reproductions. A handsome book written by Harry 100 years. A fascinating report of exploration in search
Crosby. List price $18.50. for the trail of the padres in neighboring Baja
California. Beautifully illustrated with photographs,
sketches, maps. Cloth. 182 pages. List price $14.50
h.n%aC9nperstb Desert
Anza Conquers The Desert

A vivid portrayal of Captain Juan Bautista de Anza's
conquest of the Great Desert—an arid wasteland that
had impeded the northern advance of the Spanish
Empire for 200 years. List price $12.50. Our Historic Desert
The beauty, lore and history of America's largest state
park — the Anza-Borrego Desert. Manificent photo-
graphs . . . many in full-page color . . . trails and
sketches. A thoughtful gift for those who love the desert.
List price $10.50.
ORDER TODAY FROM
Desert Magazine
The Colorful Butterfield Overland Stage
A story in art and text on how the West was first linked
Book Shop
to the East. This book depicts the California section, by Box 1318,
far the most colorful of the entire route. A new and Palm Desert, California 92260
revised edition of the popular book of the famed
paintings by Marjorie Reed Creese which are accompa-
nied by a text for each illustration. List price $6.50.
Calif, residents add 6% state sales tax
3 GREAT BOOKS! TURQUOISE, The Gem
INDIAN of the Centuries
Beautiful illustrations in
INDIAN JEWELRY accurate color can help you
identify the turquoise in
JEWELRY MAKING
For the first time Indian MAKING your jewelry. Pictures of
turquoise from 43 localities
jewelry makers, whether
from U.S. and around the
experienced or novice, have
world. A must for anyone
at their disposal a full-color
possessing even one piece
photographic essay of basic
of turquoise.
Indian designs. The book
utilizes a sequential, step-
by-step approach for the FETISHES And Carvings
craftsman. In addition to of the Southwest
basic designs, a short pic- A vivid pictorial account of
torial history of Indian jew- the use and beliefs associ-
elry making as well as ated with fetishes and the
modern day techniques and history of popular fetish
tools are presented. Valu- necklaces since prehistoric
able information on how to times. This book presents
set up a work bench, gauge the wide range of fetishes
wire, know the weight of and carvings from several
silver, etc. Southwestern Indian tribes
as well as the outstanding
64 PAGES OsowT BRANSON works of several known
ALL COLOR fetish carvers.
$795 V EACH
plus 50 cents handling
Calif, res. add

6% sales tax
64 PAGES 64 PAGES
ALL COLOR ALL COLOR
ORDER FROM
Desert Magazine Book Shop

P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260

Desert Magazine 1978 April

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PRIL, 1978 $1.

.GAZINE OF THE SOUTHWEST

MAGAZINE BOOK SHOP

GEORGE BRAGA, Art Director

WILLOW HOLE OASIS-AN ALMOST PARKSITE 8 6/7/ Jennings

THE MYSTERIOUS WALLS OF THE GRAND CANYON 12 Roger Mitchell

CEDAR BREAKS AND THE BRIANHEAD AGATE 16 Mary Frances Strong

WONDERS OF DEATH VALLEY 20 Chuck Gebhardt

NEW WESTERN ARTIST-NORBERTO REYES 24 Dave Wetterberg

HE DREAMED OF TRAILS UNTRAMMELED 28 Jean Crowl

MONITOR'S MORNING STAR LOOP 32 Betty Shannon

THE COVER: RESCUE BY PINE NUTS 36 Ronald M. Lanner

A PEEK IN THE PUBLISHER'S POKE 4 William Knyvett

NEW BOOKS FOR DESERT READERS 6 Book Reviews

TRADING POST 42 Classified Listings

BOOKS OF THE WEST 44 Mail Order Items

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 46 Readers'Comments

CALENDAR OF WESTERN EVENTS 46 Club Activities

$A00 Two other popular California areas ex-

$C00 this month. Norberto is a member of the

The Man Who Captured Sunshine is inspirational... a

*Books Nellie Coffman is vividly described.

for his friendship with Patton. Hilton was

Desert the WWII training grounds near Indio

Traders personal sacrifice, supplied our nation

If you want to read a book that is so en-

Desert/ April 1978

GHOSTS OF THE ADOBE WALLS

D< sert/April 1978

WILLOW HOLE OASIS

T of California's upper Coachella Val-

Old rockhouse cafe

sr- two routes. A few defenders could repel

n Jeep who inhabited parts of the Grand Can-

cal evidence left today to prove this

Send for FREE CATALOG

limestone to live on with no particular

City _ State. -Zip- I

This lovely 50-year-old hotel is

Visit Marta Becket's famous

I B HE PAINTINGS are enchanting scenes of the Southwest; old

Jim London, ?—1968.

These lines from Jim London's poem,

Original draft for

Colorado By Jim London

Holes he dug in the mountains,

River Some shallow, some narrow and

i -lis youth was spent in the searching,

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 3 Theron Imlay

And the calling of Rhyolite. Phone (714) 599-1102

fook part in the booms of the

Desert/ April 1978 33

Make America smarter.

p mr Company extracted moderate

frying pans on and gave them the

GOKDON'S grants collect pinon nuts along their

Two of the nine living

p;<lms. Two other veteran trees are lo-

ASSAYS—Gold and Silver $9.00. High quality