WORKSHOP MANUAL

JAWA 350/638,639,640
JAWA Moto spol. s r.o. Tnec nad Szavou
2004

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The purpose of this Manual, intended primary for specialized Jawa repair shops, is to
facilitate all jobs connected with repairs of Jawa 350 motorcycles. All the described
dismantling, refitting and adjusting procedures have been elaborated under the assumption,
that the reccomended tools and special jigs and fixtures will be used for them. All
information, illustrations and technical data contained in this manual are based on the latest
knowledge gained in and during manufacture. The Jawa Moto spol. s r.o. reserves the right to
change its products any time without a previous notice. Any changes and or deviations from
the standard version for certain territories will be published in the form of Supplements to this
Manual. It is not permited to reproduce this Workshop manual or its parts in any form
whatsoever without written consent.

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PRE-SALE SERVICE
1.
Unpack the motorcycle, free it from preservation grease, assemble the separately
delivered units and parts of accessories /control of completeness/.
2.
Check engine and frame numbers to be conform with the documentation.
3.
Take out the accumulator charging forming, assemnbly.
4.
Control the oil level in the gearbox refilling.
5.
Control all the functions of electrical accessories.
6.
Basic adjustment of the headlight /page 50 operating instructions/ and vertification of
headlight tilting.
7.
Check ignition spacing between catcher and rotor.
8.
Adjustment of coupling.
9.
Adjustment of brakes. /idle run, dearate front, clearance of stop switch cable/
10.
Filling the machine with min. 1 liter of petrol lubricated 1:50 and starting the
engine. (Motos without Oil-master) By motorcycles with Oil-master filling in oil,
deaerate whole systm, filling in petrol and starting.
11.
Adjusting the idle run on warm engine, retightening of cylinderheads and exhaust
elbows.
12.
Control of bolted connections.
13.
Instructions about attendance of machine and handing over to the customer.
TECHNICAL DATA
DIMENSIONS OF MOTORCYCLE

Length
Width
Height
Clearance
Seat height
Axle base
Min. turn radius

2100 +/- 30 mm
780 +/- 15 mm
1160 +/- 30 mm
120 +/- 10 mm
820+/- 15mm
1370 +/- 25 mm
3,5 +/- 0,4 m

MASS AND LOAD

Proper mass
Running mass
Overall mass
Payload
Nr. of seats
Trailer mass
Sidecar mass

149 +/- 3 kg
162 +/- 3 kg
342 +/- 3 kg
180 kg
2
50 kg overall
172 kg overall

ENGINE

Category
Nr. of cylinders
Cylinder capacity
Bore
Stroke
Compression ratio

two-stroke, air-cooled
2
343,5 ccm
58 mm
65 mm
9,8 + 0,7 :1
- 0,3 :1
5750 / 1 min
17 kW10% -5250/1 min +/- 3%
32 Nm6% - 4750/1 min +/- 5%
Jikov 28-29 CE horizontal
Slide type
multiple-disc in oil bath

CARBURETOR

Max revs.
Max output
Max torque
Class

CLUTCH

Type

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GEARBOX

Type

1.st gear
2.nd gear
3.rd gear
4.th gear

Number of gears
Control
Overall ratio
1 : 14,50
1 : 8,60
1 : 6,10
1 : 4,96

mechanical with gears,

double shaft
4
by foot lever
climbing capacity with full load
41%
20%
14%
9,5 %

primary chain
secondary chain

2 x 9,525 x 4,77 66 links

1 x 12,7 x 7,75 126 links
+1 conect

Front
Stroke
Rear
Stroke
Front shock absorber
Type
Rear shock absorber
Type

telescopic fork, steel spiral

springs
150 mm wheel axle 134 mm
swing arm, spiral springs
80 mm whell axle 90 mm
hydraulic
telescopic in forks arms
hydraulic
telescopic in suspension units

RIMS

Front wheel
Dimensions
Rear wheel
Dimensions

steel, deepened profile

2,15 B x 18
steel, deepened profile
2,15 B x 18

BRAKES

Front
Dimensions
Rear
Dimensions

disc type, hydraulic control

265 mm
drum, mechanic control
165 mm

ELECTRIC OUTFIT

Ignition
Output
Battery
Headlamp

magneto VAPE A67 contactless

12 V, 180 W
lead type, 12 V, 6 Ah
asymmetrical, rectangular,
adjustable
12 V 60/55 W
12 V 4 W BA 9s
sliding type
lever type
group type
headlamp bracket
rear frame

SUSPENSION

Dip switch
Indicators switch
Tail lamp
Indicators location
FUEL AND LUBRICANTS

Fuel tank capacity

Gearbox oil charge
Suspension oil charge
Front
Rear
Front brake

FRAME

Type

17 l, 2,8 l reserve
1+0,1 l
200 ccm per arm
47 ccm per absorber
permanent charge
brake fluid DOT 4 to max.
(upper edge of window)
tubular, double, closed

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LIST OF REPAIR TOOLS FOR TYPE 638, 639, 640

10

11

15

12

14

13

17

18

19

16

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LIST OF REPAIR TOOLS FOR TYPE 638, 639, 640

ITE
TYPE SERIAL NR.
M DESIG.
NR.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19

S-46
S-97
S-63
S-64
S-71
S-72
S-81
S-85
S-86
S-87
S-88
S-90
S-66
S-92
S-93
S-94
S-201
S-203
S-205

9.71.51559.4
9.71.880097
9.71.51589.4
9.71.515590.4
9.71.51577.4
9.71.51576.4
16-19758-4
9.71.52248.4
9.71.52253.4
9.71.52252.4
9.71.52251.4
28-86-763
9.71.51603.3
28-86-765
28-86-766
28-86-814
9.96.55407.3
28-86-767
28-86-725-2

QUAN DESCRIPTION
TITY

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

Feeler gauge for ignition advance adjustment

Drag (for rotor)
Pawl retsiner
Drift, centering bushes
Drift for driving out bearings
Drift for driving home sealing rings
Tubular spaNner steering head
Drag, removing primary sprocket
Drift dia
Mandrel for gudgeon pin preSsing dia. 16 in and out
AuxilIary bush, connecting rod small end
Jig with bolts for separating crankcase halves
AuxilIary clutch plate
Drift
Fork leg extractor
Primar chain adapter
Lever
Pliers
Pressing jig with accessories

List of lubricants recommended for motorcycle JAWA 350

Use of oil
A

type of oil in the Czech rep.

Viscosity Class

gearbox
Mogul Trans 90
temperature over 0C
brake lever pins
Gyrol 90
clutch lever pins
brake cams
Mogul Trans 80W/90 API GL 4
stand pins
bowden cables
Byrol 80W/90

notes

API GL 4
SAE 90
whole year
SAE 80W/90

engine lubrication

B1

lubricated petrol
Mixture ratio 1:60 after running in, 1:50 during running in
For whole year riding use oil of viscosity class SAE 30-40 for two stroke engines and
with classification according to API TS.

B2

Lubrication with Oilmaster system For whole year riding use prediluted or syntetic
oil for two stroke engines according to recommendation of individual oil producers.
For riding in temperatures over 0C can be used oil for two strokes engines of
viscosity class SAE 30-40 and with classification according to API-TC.

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C

Telescopic front fork

accelerator twist grip
Swinging rear arm

Mogul Super 15W/40

Mogul Super stabil
15W/40
energrease LA2
energrease LA2

API SD/CB or
API SF/CC
SAE 15W/40
ISO-L-XBCEB 2
ISO-L-XBCEB 2

D
E

rear sprocket bearings

energrease LA2

ISO-L-XBCEB 2

wheel bearings

energrease LA2

ISO-L-XBCEB 2

secondary chain

special spray e.g. Castrol Mo S2, Gleitmo 582 ..

OPERATING LIQUIDS

TYPE OF LIQUID IN CZ

CLASSIFICATION

Syntol HD 260

DOT 4

brake fluid

Transmission oil
Clutch

Rear suspension
Secondary chain
Wheels and rear suspension bearings
Brakes brake lining
Bowden cables
Battery
Alternator
Ignition spacing - between rotor and catcher
Spark plugs
Front fork oil exchange
Wheels spokes stretching
Brake lever pins, joints, stop switches, accelerator twist grip
Piston, piston rings, transfer ports
Brake plate
Screws, nuts and packings
check as often as necessary
check every 1000 km
check every 2500 km
check every 5000 km
replacement

K
C
S
M
D

V
V K V K V K V
K K K K K K K
K
V
S
***
K K K V K K V
K
K M K
K
M
V
K
K K K M K V M K V
M
M
M
K
K
K
****
K K K K K K
K K K K K K K K V
K
K
S K K K S K S K S
C
V
V
**** V
V V V V V V
K
*
K K K K K K K K
K
K
K K K V K K V
*** K K K K K K K K K

checking, cleaning, adjusting or eventually replacement

cleaning
adjustment
lubrication
decarbonization

After running of:

25 000 km
primary chain replacement
30 000 km
check or exchange of connecting rod bearings, steering head bearings, shaft type gasket rings
with the crankshaft as well as wheel with hub, wear of cylinder (event. re-bore)
50 000 km
complete dismantling of brake system

30000

25000

20000

15000

10000

5000

2500

*
*

Carburettor
Air filter
Steering head

*
**
***
****
V

1500

km

500

Maintenance plan

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List of main bearings and sealing rings

Designation
324 594 043 400
324 163 030 100
324 163 059 566
324 594 049 200
324 232 050 000
324 232 050 003
324 162 069 566
273 521 008 617
273 521 106 807
273 521 006 917
273 521 100 417
324 914 010 452
324 163 020 100
324 162 050 100

name of part
pcs.
needle bearing INA HN (15x22x12) 1
bearing 6303 A
1
bearing 6305 A
1
needle bearing INA BN (16x22x12) 1
bearing 3205
1
bearing 3205 C 3
1
bearing 6206
2
sealing ring (30x52x10)
1
sealing ring (25x52x7)
1
sealing ring (25x62x8)
1
sealing ring (8x16x7)
1
ball ( 6,35)
1+36
bearing 6302 A
2+2
bearing 6205 A
1

positin
engine leftt side
engine leftt side
engine leftt side
engine right side
engine right side
engine right side
ckrankshaft
engine right side
engine right side
engine leftt side
speedometer drive
frame head, clutch release
front and rear wheel
rear wheel sprocket

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Piston grading
Grading
Standard
1. re-bore
2. re-bore
3. re-bore
4. re-bore

A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C

D2
+ 0,000
- 0,010
57,972
57,982
57,992
58,222
58,232
58,242
58,472
58,482
58,492
58,722
58,732
58,742
58,972
58,982
58,992

Cylinder grading
Note: The manufacturer delivers spare cylinders exclusively with the basic /standard bore.
The other dimensions given in the table are guides for cylinder reboring. As it is very difficult
to rebore the cylinders accurately within the tolerance limits of hundredths of millimeters, it is
necessary to check the bore of the rebored cylinder by measuring it at several points, and to
use a piston of grading corresponding to the measured dimension. The grading mark on the
top face of the cylinder has to be changed accordingly.
In the engines (new or rebored) the right-hand and lefthand may be of a different grading class (but not of
different rebore grading). In the case of cylinders with
rebores in between of two grading groups, it is possible
to use a piston of B or C group. With the B piston is
running in quicker, with C piston nocking is likely on
cold engine (after start).

Grading
A
B
C
D

D1
58,01+0,01
58,02+0,01
58,03+0,01
58,04+0,01

Standard
D2
58,01+0,01
58,02+0,01
58,03+0,01
58,04+0,01

D3
58,01+0,02
58,02+0,02
58,03+0,02
58,04+0,02

I.re-bore II.re-bore III.re-bore

+0,25

+0,5

+0,75

IV.re-bore
+1,00

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List of gudgeon-pin bearings

Connecting rod

Gudgeon pin

Red
19,994+19,998

Blue
15,994+15,997
Red
15,997+16,000
Blue
15,994+15,997
Blue
15,997+16,000
Blue
15,994+15,997
Red
15,997+16,000

Blue
19,998+20,002

White
20,002+20,006
Yellow
20,006+20,010

I.
1.1.

Needle roller
2 x 13,8
1,994+1,996
1,993+1,995
1,994+1,996
1,993+1,995
1,996+1,998
1,995+1,997
1,996+1,998
1,995+1,997
1,998+2,000
1,997+1,999
1,998+2,000
1,997+1,999

Clearance
0,005+0,016
0,007+0,018
0,006+0,017
0,008+0,019
0,005+0,016
0,007+0,018
0,006+0,017
0,008+0,019
0,005+0,016
0,007+0,018
0,006+0,017
0,008+0,019

ENGINE

Disassembly and Assembly of the Cylinder Head and Cylinder

Prior to disassembly take out

the carburettor flange, wich is
shared by both cylinders.
Using the box spanner loosen
and remove the eight M10 nuts to be
able to loosen and remove the
cylinder heads. Rotate the engine
until the piston of cylinder which
should be removed is in the bottom
dead center. Take out the cylinder
and cover the ensuing holes to avoid
drain of dirt. For assembly proceed
in opossite sequence. Clean the
cylinder and engine housing seating
surfaces before assembly. Oil the
cleaned cylinder working surface
and put it on the piston. During the
assembly proceed with caution,
check if piston rings sit right in the
joints to protect them from damage.
Fit new sealing under cylinderheads (in case the old is damaged). Screw the head bolts nuts home crosswise

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using the torque spanner at the force

of 17,6 Nm. If the engine is
mounted in the frame, first remove
seat and tank, separate the exhaust
elbows and disconnect the coils,
cables and cable shoes.

1.2.

Pistons demounting and mounting

Since the piston is mounted in the

cageless needle bearing, use special tools for
demounting the piston.
There is a danger that some needles
may fall into the engine internals. This may
result into heavy damage of engine and would
be necessary to dismantle the engine and find
strayed needles. The following procedure is
reccomendable:
Take off the cylinders ( see sect. 1.1),
plug the crankcase holes, remove piston rings
and using suitable plies remove piston pin
locks.
Fit the auxiliary insert S-88 into the
piston opening and the press-out pin in the
auxiliary insert. Push the pin as far as the pin
support surface. Detach the piston from the
piston rod top end and lock the auxilary insert
S-88 (held between the needles in the piston
rod end). And the two original take-up rings to
avoid their falling down.
Prior to proceeding to mounting the
pistons, make sure that all needle rollers (28
units per rod) and the take-up rings are fitted
in the connecting rod top ends. The auxiliary
inserts S-88 must be mounted inside the
rollers. When fitting a piston on the connecting
rod top end, make sure that take-up rings and
rollers do not fall into the engine housing
internals

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Piston must have signing L (left side)

or P (right side) for the corresponding cylinder
and the arrow must be oriented forward to the
exhaust ports. Use the press-out pin S-87 to
push the piston pins. Make sure, that the
lightening holes of the piston pins are oriented
to the engine outside. Lock the piston pins
with lock rings. When mounting new pistons,
check if their identification marks (i.e. A,B,C)
correspond to each cylinder.

Make this check before mounting the

piston rings to be sure that the piston in the
cylinder is not off the axis: fit the piston
(without rings) provisionally on the piston and
turn the crank mechanism with the starting
lever to see if the piston have the identical
clearance on each side when it is in the top
dead end position.
If it leans permanently against one side and,
when pushed off, returns to the original position,
take the cylinder out and bend with caution the
connecting rod with piston to the other side. This
act is called connecting rod angle adjusting.
The truly adjusted connecting rod must have the
identical play on each side.

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1.3.

Primary gear, clutch - dissasebly

CAUTION: First drain oil from the gearbox.

Take off the starting lever (first move it to the
star position) and remove the bolts holding the
left engine cover. After compressing the
springs take off the clutch pins, dismantle the
washers and springs and plates and insert the
securing plate S-66 into the clutch drum.
With barrel spanner nr.19 remove the nut M12
and take off the inner clutch drum.
With barrel spanner nr. 27 loosen the primary
gear nut. Using S-85 puller remove this
primary gear and take it together with the
clutch cage and chain off the shafts.
In most of the cases you may remove the
clutch cage without having to strip the primary
chain wheel, while moving a few times the
clutch cage on the mainshaft and releasing
thus the clutch gear spacer. Grip the released
spacer and pull it out and remove the cage.
1.3.1.

Assembly

Fit the primary chain gear on the clean,

dry crankshaft taper and the washer and spacer
(test the run out rate of the spacer faces before the
assembly) on the mainshaft. Place a steel ruler on
the gear flank against the gears to make sure that
both gears are alligned (admissible tolerance is of
0,5 mm).
The true alignment is important for primary chain
lifetime expectancy and the primary gear noise
rate. To eliminate the deviations (if any) of the
clutch chain gear fit steel shimp of adequate
thickness on the mainshaft between the bearing
and the washer. Test the parallelity and take off
the clutch gear again. Before mounting the
starting gear check the condition of the shaft seal
ring. Mount the starting gear (move the shaft for
the purpose to be in the starting position). Fit the
primary chain on the chain gear crankshaft taper
and crankshaft. Put on the inner clutch drum
(with fitted undamaged lock washer) on the
mainshaft. Fix the carrier with nut and lock the
washer. Screw home the primary chain gear nut
on the crankshaft For the job use the S-66 jig.

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1.4.
Clutch - assembly
Fit the oiled clutch rod with rest in the mainshaft. On the outer drum put one by one the
friction and steel discs. If we change the plates, before the assembly, measure their overall
thickness, wich should be 18,25 +/- 19 mm (5 plates). Put on pressure plate with springs and
washers over them. Compress successively the spring over washes with spanner nr. 10 and
over the washers fix the securing pins. The tightening torque of the M12x1,25 nut holding the
clutch is 35-40 Nm.
1.5

Speedometer drive and sealing

Dismount the primary gear as described under 1.3. Unscrew the M6 bolt
provided on the engine bottom and holding the speedometer drive socket and
take it out of the engine. Unscrew the grub screw from the lug provided on
engine housing inner bottom (the screw drives the speedometer). Using a
stick (preferably an aluminium one) knock the drive casing and the seal ring
into the housing space. For mounting, fit the new 8x16x7 seal ring on the
drive shaft (spring should face the engine internals), and using a suitable pipe
or socket wrench of 15 mm outer diameter tap on the drive to push it through
the housing to its seat as far as the point when groove on the drive surface is
in the line with the thread for the lock screw in the housing. Once a screw is
screwed home, drift it with centre punch

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1.6.

Starter spring
(primary gear dismounted)
Turn the starter shaft to the left and take it
out of its mounting Take off the starter
segment and spring. When remounting the
spring, fit its one end on the segment edge.
Turn the segment to get it in its true position,
with the segment hole centre aligned with the
carrier hole center. The other end of the
spring sits on the enginehousing rear wall. Fit
in the starter shaft (with spring) and turn it to
get it in the starting position.
1.7.

Shaft with carrier

Gearshift pawl
(primary gear dismounted)
Turn the starter shaft and take it
off along with the starter segment and
return spring. Drive out the pin which
holds the clutch-disengagement cam on
the shaft (from the bottom to up) and
remove the cam. Fit the pawl holder S63 between the gate and the pawls and
pull with caution the shifter shaft with
carrier and pawls out of the mounting.
When remounting the set, support the S63 holder against the carrier pawl and fit
the oiled shaft in its mounting. See that
the carrier pin sits truly between the
return springs in the gate. Mount semiautomatic set of the clutch on the engine
right hand flank. Then proceed as
described under .
1.8.

Dismounting the semiautomatic clutch

disengagement set.
Adjusting
Loosen the nut and remove the
brake pedal. Remove the engine cover.
Using the spanner 10 unbolt three bolts
and remove the holder. Also unhook the
clutch bowden. For remounting proceed
in reverse sequence.
Note: After remounting the semiautomatic clutch disengagement set, you
have to adjust it see chap. 1.
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1.9. Adjusting of semi-automatic

clutch disengagement set
Remove the right engine cover
Screw home the clutch cable adjusting bolts
on bowden (make bowden shorter) to loosen
the cable socket on clutch control set.
Adjust the play between the foot clutch
disengagement cam and the disengagement
roller with the clutch disengagement bolt M8
to make them touch. (the play between set
bolt and control pole is 0,1 0,3 mm)
Eliminate the play on the clutch lever on
handlebar by adjusting bowden bolts.

1.10. Rear wheel sprocket

Removing and refitting
Remove the semi-auto clutch
release device. Loosen the clips of the rubber
chain guards and lift off the outer cover of the
secondary sprocket. Unlock the lock washer
under the nut. With the slack secondary chain ,
pull the secondary sprocket with the chain and
inner cover out of its bearings. It is not
necessary to disconnect the chain . Reverse
this procedure to refit it back.
Note:
Be carefull when refitting the secondary
sprocket. It must slide easily on the splines. Do
not drive the sprocket forcefully into the
bearing (inside the crankcase) in spite of its
being secured against normal stressing with a
buttress plate. There is danger of serious
damage to the gear shaft forks and gears of
gearbox.
1.11. Take out the engine from the frame
Take off the saddle, disconnect the battery fuse and take off the spark plugs caps. Detach the
fuel supply hose remove the fuel tank, unscrew the carburettor cap and take off the bowden
with the slide. Remove the M8 nut holding the exhaust bent flanges and turn the bents to the
side, so they would not be in the way. Detach the tachometer drive provided below the engine
and the speedometer. Remove the right engine cover, detach the alternator cables. Dismount
rotor using jig S-97. After screwing off four bolts M6 remove alternator stator. Detach the
cable from the idling gear contact and pull the whole cable bundle out of holder in the engine
case. Detach the bowden cable from the clutch automatic set, unscrew the three bolts and
remove the control set of clutch. Loosen the rear wheel axis and the transmission gear nut.
Loosen the chain tensioner and move the wheel forward to remove the chain.

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Take off the outer cover sprocket, loosen

the gear nut and unscrew with nr.32 socket
spanner. Pull out the sprocket with inner
cover from mounting.
It is not necessary to uncouple the chain.
Remove the right footrest, bolts and pins
holding engine into the frame. Standing on
the right side grip the engine with right
hand by the cylinder and with left hand by
the start lever (see pic.) Lift the engine
slightly to the front, shift it to the right and
take it out of the frame. Avoid damaging
the paint protect frame pipes (e.g. by
rubber tubes).
II.

DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING THE ENGINE HOUSING

2.1. Basic disassembly

Clamp the engine front section between vice jaws
in such a way, that the engine left side is accesible.
Remove the carburettor, primary gear, cylinder heads
and pistons. Drive the rear centring element from the left
side of engine housing to the right side. Take out the
clutch automatic release device and remove M6 bolts
holding two halves of engine housing together. Take the
housing out of the vice and lay it down on the left side.
2.2. Separating two halves of engine
Bolt the S-90 puller in the M6 thread holes in the
housing (see pic). and strip with it uniformly the
right half of the housing from the crank
mechanism bearing. Take care to keep the right
connecting rod in the top dead end position, it has
to pass easily through the central housing slit. If
during the stripping the right half of housing gets
jammed, knock with caution on the rear poart of
housing event. turn a bit shaft of sprocket to keep
stripping procces uniform. After two halves are
separated enough remove the mid insert between
two cylinders to allow free passage of
connecting rod. Finish separating and remove the
right half.

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Suggestion: Use grease (f.ex.PM-NH2, LITOL 24,

CASTROLEASE LH-2 ...) to avoid needles falling out of
countershaft bearings.
2.3. Gearbox shifting, crank mechanism
With the engine in this dismantled condition, it is
possible to repair the gearbox and the gear shift
mechanism. Without pressing the crankshaft mechanism
out of the other crankcase half. During the inspection of
gearbox and gearshifting, remove the shifter fork rod,
the shifter forks, the layshaft and the gears. With soft
mallet tap the mainshaft out of bearing. If it is necessary
to remove the gear shift plate, remove the four, dot
secured countersink screws from the gate, turn the gate
to suitable position and remove it from case
To remove the crankshaft screw the S-85
drag with two M8 screws into the threaded
holes for fastening screws of left half
crankcase cover. Push out the crankshaft out
of left half of case.
Remember: connecting rod must be in its top (T.D.C.)
2.4. Exchange of layshaft needle bearings
After removing locks drive the bearing into the
crankcase with a drift. To facilitate this job, remove the
speedometer drive from left half of engine. Put new
bearings into the crankcase heat case to 80-120C.
After pressing them home, fill them up with grease to
avoid loosing of needles.
2.5. Testing the evenness of seating surfaces
Clean thoroughly the seating surfaces and test
the evenness of the whole engine housing with the steel
ruler. Grind the surfaces plain on a plate if necessary.
Clean the ground surfaces thoroughly of the grinding
paste.
2.6. Exchange of bearings and seal rings of
crankshaft mechanism
Change bearings in case they are noisy or worn
out. Dismantle the engine housing, remove the lock rings
of sealing rings. Heat the case up to 100-120C and using
the drift S-71 drift the bearing into the engine case. Use
drift S-72 to drift out the sealing ring (from inside-out).
Mainshaft bearing drive out similar way.

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Also after unlocking and driving wheel inside the

case. Mounting of all bearing is realised to heated
case (100-120C). Put the bearings into the preheated halfs of engine case, getting them inline
with the machined surface intended for the crank
mechanism flywheel. Push the mainshaft and gear
plus-hub bearing as far as the depth of locking,
wich have to be already in its place. Sealing rings
are mounted in after jointing of case halves.
Lock the mounted mainshaft bearing against
shifting with shims and drift the bolts with centre
punch.
2.6.1. Exchange of sealing rings
The seal rings alone can be replaced while engine is in the frame. However the
primary gear must be dismounted before. Also alternator and chain gear (1.9). Remove the
lock pin and take off the damaged seal ring. Then check the true joint of the spring, oil the
seal rings and drive the latter in place with the S-72 and S-92 jigs.
2.7. Gearbox
For the correct reassembly of gearbox it is
recommended to begin with the crank mechanism
removed from the crankcase halves in order to
ensure the maximum clearance of the layshaft. To
ascertain this clearance, fit the layshaft into
ballbearing together with the 1st. speed gear and
then clamp both crankcase halves together
provisionally with several screws. Move the
layshaft forward and backward to check its axial
clearance which should be in the range from 0
0,6 mm. Then remove the layshaft and locate the
crank mechanism with the centre face plate (if
this plate has been removed) into the left
crankcase half heated up to 100-120C. The
highest temperature has to be around the
crankshaft bearing. Put wooden blocks under the
front and rear part of the crankcase half and insert
the crank mechanism into as fast as possible so
that the lock pin of centre ring fits into the recess
in the crankcase. It is not permitted to drive the
mechanism into the bearing forcefully because
this would result in its uncentering and also in
damaging of bearings. If the crank mechanism
becomes jammed in the baering, drive it out of
the bearing (engine dismantling), reheat the
crankcase and repeat the operation..

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Set the gear shift gate in one of the centre positions

(extreme positions are unsuitable). Then fit the
mainshaft with the spacer and gear locked in the
position with wireformed ring into the bearing in the
left crankcase half. Fit the 16 tooth gear on the shaft
splines with its three claws pointing downward.
Put shifter fork guide pins into the top and the
bottom slots of the gate and fit the top fork into the 16
tooth gear on the mainshaft at the same time. Then
thread the guide rod through the forks so that its
shouldered end points downward. Locate the 24 tooth
gear with its flat side toward the needle bearing, and
place the 16 tooth gear on the bottom shifter fork with
its three claws pointing upward. Join both gears by the
layshaft with the previously fitted on and secured 19
tooth gear. Check gear shifting by turning the gear
shift gate to the individual positions corresponding to
the individual speeds (especialy if a new gear shift
gate is used) in the following manner.
a) Shift the 1st. gear and check whether the
16 tooth gear on the layshaft meshing with
the 1st speed gear (24 teeth) has an axial
clearance of at least 0,2-0,3 mm. Likewise
check that, in this position, there is a
clearance between the shifter fork guide pins
and the end of the gate slots.
b) Shift the neutral between 1st and 2nd gear
and check that the claws of the 16 tooth gear
do not touch the face of 1st speed gear and
also the claws of the 2nd speed (19 teeth)
gear when lifting in the bottom shifter fork.
c) When shifting in fourth gear, the face of
splined mainshaft should protrude 0,1-0,2
mm from the 3rd speed gear (16 teeth). At
the same time check that the shifter fork
guide pins are not abutting against the ends
of the gate slots (see paragraph a).

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2.8.

Joining the housing halves

Heat the right half of engine housing the same

way as the left one. Coat the left housing half sealing
surface with sealing putty. Coat the gearbox shaft end
and the right crank pin with oil. Engage the idling
between the 1st and 2nd gears and move the right
connecting rod in the top position to make it pass easier
through the housing slit. Mount the mid insert in the
housing mid recess. Heat the right housing half along
with all bearings as well as the countershaft needle
bearing well and join it as quickly as possible to the
other half while turning the gear plus hub to get the
gears mate each other. Drive in the rear centring pin.
Bolt tightly the two housing halves together with M6
bolts (start with mod bolts). Tighten the bolts once
more after the housing is cool and clean the housing
vent hole.
Using a pipe of suitable diameter tap on the ball bearing
inner ring to achieve the true position of the balls in the
bearing runway. Lubricate the bearings with engine oil.
Drive on both crankshaft seal rings before mounting
make sure that they are duly joined with each other.
Use S-72 drift for driving operation. Lock the seal rings
to prevent their shifting. Tap down slightly the mid
insert. For the next engine assembly steps clamp the
engine front section in the vice and proceed as decribed
above. Pour the oil into the gearbox as late as possible
to allow the sealing putty -between housing halves- dry
fully.
2.9.

Mounting the engine into the

frame
When mounting the engine in, proceed
in reverse sequence of the disassembly.
Before mounting the clutch disengaging
holder, coat the ball under the adjusting bolt
with grease. Once the engine is mounted in
the bike frame and clutch cable attached,
adjust the clutch release mechanism.

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III.

CRANK MECHANISM DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBLY

3.1.

Crank mechanism dismantling

Using the nr.12 tubular spanner,
unscrew the nuts holding together the two part
face plate and separate two halves of the plate.
Never use a chiesel or a screwdriver for this
operation. Apply a set square on to the
flywheels and make index lines with the scriber
to mark their mutual position. Preferably in 90
from the axis of the crankpins. For pressing the
flywheel apart and for their subsequent pressing
together, you will need a press with a pressure
of about 8-10 tons and a special two part
supporting jig (S-205 pressing jig).
When replacing connecting rods (replace always
the complete rod along with its pins) press out
first the end flywheel, tak off the connecting
rod and press the mid bearing pin out of the
nearest mid flywheel. Press the connecting rod
out of the latter flywheel. If replacing the mid
pin, labyrinth bearings or mid ring, dismount the
crank completely to pieces.
3.2.
Mounting the crank mechanism
a) Press connecting rod pins in the inner flywheels,
whereby the faces of the pins must get in line with the
flywheel outer surface. The pins must face in the precise
perpendicular position the flywheel surface. For this job
use a set square or the guide, which is includet in set of
special tools for work on the crank mechanism.
b) Fit the connecting rod with bearing and distance washer on the left inner flywheel pin.
Attach the outer flywheel, adjust it with the set square and press it in. After having finished
the pressing job, check the gauge lines the crank mechanism was marked with before it was
dismantled (must be in line). Use a copper mallet for the readjustment

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c) Then put the left half of the crank mechanism into

the jig and use the S-204 guiding insert to press in the
centre pin. Fit the bearing Nr. 6206 C 36 (packed with
grease) and the distance ring on the centre pin. Smear
the distance ring with grease and fit on it the labyrinth
packing so that its lower part under the collar is turned
toward the right half of the crank mech. Then press in
the other bearing.
d) Fit the right inner flywheel on the centre pin (the
crankpin is allready pressed in) so that it is turned
through 180. After align it according to the index
lines, press it together with the assembled left side of
the crank mechanism
e) Fit the connecting rod with the bearing and distance ring
on the crankpin of the right flywheel and then reposition the
crank mechanism in the pressing jig, so that the largest
possible area of the crankpin bears against the side of the
press drum. Then locate the right outer flywheel, adjust it in
the perpendicular position on the crankpin according to the
index lines, and press the assembly together.
3.3. Crank mechanism centering
Before the centering the crank mechanism
check that the index lines coincide and that
they are in a single plane. If necessary, tap the
right or left flywheel with copper mallet and
bring it to the required position. Check axial
clearance of the connecting rod according to
the limits given in the table. When centering
the crank mechanism, never tap the flywheels
or crankpins with the iron hammer. Use the S201 lever or the S-203 special pliers only when
it is necessary to spread the flywheels apart.
Following description can be considered as a
basic guide to the centering of the crank
mechanism, because this job has to be done by
experienced and skilled worker. For aligning
the crankmechanism by tapping the flywheels,
the mechanism has to be removed from the
centres of the centering fixture. This fixture
must be in perfect order to ensure that the
measuring results will not be distorted. Here,
also include instructions for removing the
ascertained excentricity deviations exceeding
those recommended by the documentation i.e.
greater that 0,02-0,03 mm.

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Crank shaft mechanism complete dimensions + tolerances

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Pic.1: Flywheel surfaces are not in a single plane (do not coincide).
On the surface of the flywheel, mark with the chalk points where the indicator shows
the maximum value. Take the crank mechanism out of the centres and support the middle
flywheels so that the outside flywheel markings are on the top. Then tap the marked points
with the copper mallet until the desired result is obtained.
Pic.2: Places where indicator shows the maximum value sign with the chalk. In our
case the whole mechanism is bent. Take it out of centres, support one end flywheel in such a
way that the signed places are on top. Hold the opposite end with a hand and tap with copper
mallet on the middle flywheels on marked places. Or you can use plies S-203 to expand the
inner flywheels still clamped in the centres- on opposite side of marking.
Pic.3: Left and right flywheels are closer to each other at the points opposite to the
connecting rod pins. For expanding use plies S-203. Test the crank mechanism clamped
between centres. If the closing is minor, the expanding operation can be done by S-201 lever.
If the end flywheels are closed at the points opposite to the cennecting rod pins, they must be
forced apart. After having removed the crank mechanism from the centres, give the flywheels
blows in the direction of arrow
Pic.4: Left and right flywheels are too opened and must be closed at the points
opposite to the connecting rod pins. Take the crank mechanism out of the clamping and give
the flywheel blows from the side indicated by arrow.
Note: Continue in centering and testing until you achieve the admissible radial run out
of the crank mechanism, wich must be less than 0,02-0,03. After having centered the
crank mechanism test the axial play and mount the cleaned mid ring (face) on.

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IV.
4.1.

CHASSIS

Front wheel remove

Loosen and unscrew the nut of wheel shaft and remove the dust protecting ring. Loosen the
clamping bolt of the wheel and shift out the shaft. Be carefull not to loose the brake pads
when removing the front wheel from the fork. After removing the wheel it is recommendable
to enter between the brake pads a filler of -at least- the same thickness as the brake disc and
secure it against falling out. During assembly watch the brake disc, to get easily slipped
between the brake pads after having removed the filler. Shaft has to be clean and greased a
bit. After slipping the shaft into the wheel, screw and tighten the nut.Push down the front fork
several time and then tighten the wheel axle with the clamping bolt on the left slider.
4.2.

Rear wheel remove

Unscrew the winged nt of therear brake bowden and wheel spindle nut, remove the
washer and pull the spindle out to right side. Than remove the brake reaction link with
the spacer from left side and disengage the wheel from the rear wheel sprocket assembly. Tilt
the bike to the right and take out the wheel with the brake cover with brake shoes. For
refitting the rear wheel, reverse the procedure of its removal. Check the rear brake (wheel has
not to drag) and correct installation of the brake reaction link in the guide on the swing arm.
Wire spoked wheels

Motorcycle with sidecar

Alloy wheels

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4.3.

Secondary chain

Proper care and correct tensioning of

the chain are decisive for its function and
lifetime. It is important for the chain to
have necessary slack in every position of
swing arm. For example the chain must
never be stretched fully, whatever the
position of swing arm. To adjust chain
proceed as following:
a) With a machine standing on main
stand, loosen the nut of rear wheel
spindle and nut of rear wheel sprocket
bush. Then loosen M6 lock nut on
chain tensioner on both sides of
swingarm
b) Then tension or slacken the
chain by gradually turning the
screws of both tensioners by the
same number of turns.
c) The chain is tensioned correctly
if, after releasing the top rubber
chainguard, the chain can be lifted
at least 3 centimeters. This slack
ensures that the chain will never
be fully stretched during the ride
due to the up and down movement
of swingarm. This could shorten
the lifetime of the chain or even
result in damage of bearings
(gearbox sprocket).
d) Than it is also important to allign perfectly both wheels when adjusting chain. To
measure alignment of the wheels, use a suitable adapted lath. A missalignment of the
wheels (not in same track) unfavourably affects the riding characteristics of the machine.
e) After having adjusted the chain and aligned the wheels, first tighten the lock nuts on
tensioners, and than nut of rear wheel sprocket bush and spindle nut. Recheck the tension
of the chain one more and adjust the rear brake and brake light switch.
4.3.1. Renewing secondary chain, without removing fully closed chainguard
The following procedure can be adopted for renewing the secondary chain when you
have another chain of the same length - to be exchanged with
a) Loosen the nuts of rear wheel spindle and sprocket. Than loosen the tensioners and
move the wheel forward as far as possible

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b) Loosen the screw of rear top clamping sleeve of the rubber chain guard, and lift off
the clamping sleeve. Pull the top part of the chainguard out of its mounting at the
guard rear part.
c) Turn the rear wheel until the master chain link (connection) appears in the accesible
area. To prevent falling of the chain left end into the metal cover, put a thin
screwdriver or wire between the chain rollers next to master link. After pressing aside
the rubber guard, secure the same way the right end.
d) Now dissconnect the master link and connect the end of the prepared new chain to
the left end of the original chain.
e) Take away the screwdriver securing the end of original chain, lift the rear wheel and
by carrefully pulling, slip the new chain on both sprockets. Be carefull not to damage
painted or chrome plated parts
Before disconnecting the original chain from the master chain link, secure the ends of
new chain the way described under c) and remove the original chain. Then use a new
chain link to join the ends of the new chain. In case you have removed the chain only
for maintenance purposes, clean it and lubricate as usual, and refit it on the sprockets
as described above, using an auxiliary chain
f) Refit the end of the top chain rubber chainguard into its mounting and secure it with
the clamping sleeve. Tighten the chain well, as described.
g) Adjust the rear brake and brake light switch.
Remember! The clip of master chain link must allways be turned with the cut out to the
direction opposite to the movement of the chain.
4.4.
Steering replacement of bearing on the lower bearer.
(Fuel tank and front wheel removed)
To dismatle the headlamp cover, unscrew the
lever of headlamp tilting, loosen the nuts of
the flasher conduits and unscrew two M5s.
Further, disconnect the switch of the front
brake light and remove the main brake
cylinder incl. mirror and lever. Place these
parts carefully not to damage them later
during the work.
By unscrewing the four bolts from the upper
bearer, dismantle at the same time the
handlebars (let them hang on bowdens) and
instrument board (disconnect electrical wires
and speedo and tacho drives).
For simpler assembly it is better to disconnect
connectors of the ignition switch, the horn and
earthing cable from the upper bearer
Further loosen and remove the upper plugs of the
fork arms loosening at the same time the screws
M10 on th elower bearer clamping the fork arms
that we tak out together with the mudguard.

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After disassembly of the front fork a mudguard, put back the fork plugs to avoid pouiring oil
out of fork. Remove the headlight and indicators and let them hang on cabling or attach them
to the frame in the suitable way. On releasing and screwing out the upper nut of the steering
column (key S-81), take off the upper bearer.
Using the opposite side of the key S-81 loosen the lower nut of the steering column. Hold the
lower bearer in upper position in order that the balls do not fall out from the bearings.
Remove the nuts and take out lower bearer carefully.
In case of an urgent replacement of the steering bearing shells, we use a longer bar to drive
them out. At first, push the bearing shell from the lower bearer by means of sharp chisel on
several spots and carefully take it out.
When reassembling, take care to have the bearing shells of the steering head filled with
prescribed grease and to check if both bearings have 18 balls of dia 1/4 (6,35 mm).
Notice: Reassembly is executed in opposite way, always observe these principles. First
retighten the lower nut of steernig column and than loosen it just enought in order that the
fork moves in bearing without play. Use S-81 for this job. Make sure about it and then secure
the upper nut.
4.5.
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)

Front fork

4.5.1. Removing front fork legs (front fork removed)

Remove the cover of headlight and dismantle the front brake caliper.
Take off front mudguard (2 bolts M6x16, 4 bolts M8x20).
Unscrew plugs of fork arms.
Loosen bolts of lower bearer (M10x65).
Screw the S-93 jig into the fork tube and tap the tube to loosen it from the bearer.

4.5.2. Removing front fork slider and damper, exchange of seal

a) Release the sockets on the collars and strip both as well as the carrier pipes from the slider,
take off the springs.
b) Unscrew by imbus nr.8 screw M10x25 in lower part of slider and remove the slider.
c) Remove the lock, sealing ring and remove the damper.
d) Remove the lock which holds the seal in the top section of the slider and take out the seal
ring. A new seal ring must be employed at each disassembly. The assembly proceeds in the
reverse sequence. Before fitting in the spring, fill the assembled arm with damper oil (4.5.3)
Mount the arm in the bearer, tighten the top plug and then the arm with the M10 bolt provided
in the bottom bearer.
4.5.3. Exchange of front fork oil.
Engine oil SAE 30-40 is used for front fork filling.
Each arm contains 200 cm3 of damping oil. In adition to the damping effect this oil also
lubricates the slider bushes. When oil is changed for first time, we suggest to flush both
absorbers with flushing oil.
a) Perform first exchange of damping oil after 500 km.
b) Then change oil periodically every 5000 km.

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Front fork oil exchange

a) Loosen the drain screw from the fork.
b) For faster draining remove also the top plugs.
c) After all oil is drained out, flush the tube with
flushing oil.
d) Chech sealing washers under the screw heads and
tighten the screws.
e) Fill up both arms with fork oil.
f) Close the fork with top plugs.
4.6. Locking the motorcycle
Turn the handlebar to the right as far as
possible. Put the key into the lock. Turn it
clockwise and at the same time push it in. Turn
the key back and remove it from the lock.
Unlocking is the reverse procedure.
4.7.

Removing the seat

Put the key into the lock, turn it
clockwise and simultaneously pull the lock out
a bit. Lift the saddle in the front for about 1015 cm and pull it out of the motorcycle. Put the
seat back in reverse procedure.
4.8. Rear suspension
To dismantle the rear suspension unit for oil exchange or renewing
the packings, clamp the lower eye of the shock absorber into the vice.
Unscrew the plug (2) with the size 22 spanner, and pull the piston rod
assembly from the shock absorber body. If the piston rod sticks in the
working, tap the cylinder with a soft object to strike it off the guide.
Whenever dismantling the shock absorber, put a new packing and sealing
ring into the cap nut.
4.8.1
Filling by oil and assembly
The suspension unit lower eye is still in the vice. Lace the working
cylinder into the shock absorber body and pour in 0,047 litres of ON-1
damper oil. Carefully slide in the piston rod with the piston into the
cylinder, and screw in and tighten the plug. Then check the correct
function of damper by pulling and pushing the piston rod few times. In
case there is a resistance when pushing down the piston rod, loosen the
plug and operate the piston rod again to exped the air or surplus oil from
the shock absorber. Then retighten the plug. Check if all silentblocks are
undamaged, event. exchange them.

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4.9.

Removing the rear swingarm (without disconnecting secondary chain)

Remove the rear wheel from the rear swing

arm, detach the brake bowden and remove
the rear wheel sprocket with cover while
leaving them hang on the chain. Detach the
rear suspension units and slide them out of
the lower retainers after having loosened the
upper retainers for about 4 turns. Unscrew
the M10 nut on the left side on the brake
pedal shaft and use a soft mallet to drive out
the shaft with the brake pedal to the right
side.
Unlock and unscrew one of the nuts of the
swing arm shaft, drive the shaft out of its
bearing with an aluminium drift and take out
the rear swing arm. After removing the dust
covers, remove the metal-plastic bushes.
Caution! :
These metal-plastic bushes have to be put rough side outwards! The pin of the brake reaction
link must be on the left side and the rear ends of the arm must be lifted above the exhaust
silencer before sliding them in their mountings. Take care that the cover plates and the
packing rings do not fall out.
4.10. Rear brake
Rear brake of motorcycle needs to be adjusted only sometimes, when brake lining is
worn. This is manifested by longer way of brake levers. The brake cam is provided with
brake-lining wear indicator. When the indicator reaches its extreme position, exchange the
brake shoes to ensure safe riding.
4.11. Disc brake Jawa
Front disc brake Jawa is composed of four
main components.
1. Master cylinder with lever, a part of which is a can
for brake fluid and a front brake light switch.
2. A pipe with inlet bolt
3. Caliper of dics brake
4. Brake disc

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Disc brake put into operation (new or after repair)

Tighten all pressure tight joints, pour the brake fluid into the reservoir of main brake
cylinder. By repeatedly pressing the front brake lever pump the fluid into the entire brake
system. (to do it faster you can carefully inject fluid into the brake caliper through the
deareration screw). If you manage to fill the whole systm with brake fluid, you have to
deaerate it in order to obtain a 100% braking effect
Slide a transparent hose over the deaeration screw on caliper and dip its other end into
the glass with brake fluid. Press several time the brake lever and with constant pressure on the
lever, loosen the deaeration screw a bit. Then tighten it again. Repeat this operation as long as
there are bubbles goinig out of brake caliper. Take care to have all the time enough of brake
fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and to have end of hose in brake fluid in the glass.
Operation and the maintenance of the hydraulic disc brake
Check before every ride
Optical check of brake fluid level
and leaking of the fluid from the whole
system. Check function of brake light
switch. If the level of fluid gets under 1/2
of control window, add brake fluid,
maximally to the top of window. This
check is done when bike stands on wheels
with one person in seat.
Check every 2.500 km
Optical check of brake pads wear,
lubrication of brake lever pin.
Check every 5.000 km
Remove the brake pads, check
thickness of the lining. Minimum is 1,5
mm otherwise pads have to be replaced
with new ones.The brake pads are to be
mounted with bevel toward the bigger
diameter of the disc.
Beware! When pads are removed, do not
move with brake lever. You could push
out the piston from the caliper. Brake disc
should have min. 4,5 mm.
Check every 25.000 km or 2 years.
Demounting brake caliper, check parts, exchange of brake fluid, dust and seal rings.
Undertake this work in authorized service, use suggested brake fluid, protect screw joints
against the corrosion.

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Check every 50.000 km or 5 years

Complete dismantling of brake system (master cylinder, caliper). Check functional surfaces,
exchange all rubber parts (sealings, dust rings, connecting hoses). Untertake this work in
authorised service.
Service limits have to be checked every 50.000 km or once after 5 years.
Dismantling of the brake caliper
First properly clean caliper with
denatured alcohol (pads removed).
Remove three imbus bolts and separate
bolth halves of the caliper. Remove the
elastic insert and rubber sealing, then you
can take out both pistons. In case of
damage exchange also both sealing rings.
When completing caliper watch to
adhere following principles:
1.
Smear parts with conservation
and preserving fluid brake producer
uses BREOX fluid. Dip new sealing ring
of piston into this fluid for 1 hour before
mounting in.
2.
Insert the sealing ring into the
groove of the cylinder.
3.
An anti-dust sleeve shall be fitted on the piston into the groove
and the piston shall be carefully slipped into the calipers cylinder
untill its bottom position. In this possition the sleeve can be slipped
into the groove on the outer periphery of the calipers cylinder. Put an
elastic insert piece into the excision in the left half of the caliper,
using a packing ring to seal the surface between both halves. Than
screw both halves together with three imbus bolts. Brake pads insert
into the caliper just before the mounting of front wheel.

1 - cover
2 - bolt M5x14
3 - washer 5,3
4 master cylinder
5 spring
6 front cup
7 front piston
8 rear cup
9 washer
10 lock ring
11 dust ring
12 rear piston
13 - bellow

Dismantling of master cylinder

After discharging brake fluid, unscrewing the connecting hose,
removing the lever and carefull cleaning with denatured alcohol. After removing of dust cover
and lock ring it is easy to pull out all internals.
Assembly of master cylinder is reverse of disassembly, follow these principles.
a) Take care not to interchange sleeves on the pistons and not to damage them during the
assembly.
b) Maintain maximum cleanness, put new rubbers into BREOX fluid for 1 hour.
Maintenance exchange of front brake disc
Exchange the disc when it is worn out or damaged. If there are sharp marks on the surface
exchange the disc. This phenomenon is quite normal. Prior to mounting the disc, 6 shrims are
placed on the screw holes in hub. Into the holes on disc 6 bushes and disc is fixed by M8
bolts.
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4.12

Exchange the ball bearing of

the rear sprocket.
After removing of rear wheel, unscrew with
32 mm spanner the nut of sprocket, which we
remove from the swing arm also with cover.
Detach the sleeves on the rear end of chain
cover, remove two M5 bolts and separate
both halves of the chaincover. Now you can
lift off the sprocket without disconnecting the
chain. Than carefully press or drive out the
spacing bush and proceed to remove the
spacer. The dust cover and the bearing lock
ring from the right side of the sprocket.
Using a suitable tube drive out the bearing
from the side of the driving lug and then
press home the new bearing using a tube with
diametrer of outer bearing ring. Never drive
the bearing over the inner ring this would
amage the bearing. Prior to refitting the dust
covers fill the bearing with grease PM-LA-2.
4.13. Exchange of ballbearings of front and
rear wheel.
Remove the cover of brake drum with brake shoes,
and carefully remove the dust covers from both sides.
Unlock the bearing and from other side drive the bearing
so far as the primary unlocked bearing falls out. Remove
the distance tube and stamped washer of the bearing. The
other bearing drive with the tube back to the other side of
hub.
To refit the bearings proceed as follows:
First put the stamped washer in that side of the
hub where the bearing is secured with a lock
ring with the convex side of the washer turned
inside the hub. Using a suitable tube, press in the
new bearing (apply the tube on outer ring) till it
bears against the washer and secure it with the
respective lock ring. From the other side insert
the distance tube (into the middle of the stamped
washer) and then press home the other bearing.
The bearings and also partly the hub must be
packed with PM-LA2 grease.

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4.14. Removing of fuel tank

Close the fuel cock and detach
the fuel hose. Take off the saddle, side
cases and unscrew the M6 bolts holding
the tank in the rear. After removing the
silentblocks pull up the tank a bit in the
rear part, pull it out to the back.
4.15. Filter box removing
When seat, side cases and fuel tank
are removed, take off the plastic cover
sealing the under-seat- space from dirt.
Detach the connection between carburettor
and filter box. Unscrew the bolt holding
underseatbox and filter box together. Tip the
filterbox forward and carefully remove the
box from the frame.
Air filter - exchange
Air filter is placed in the filter box and is accesible from the right side of the
motorcyle. Remove the seat, side cover and unscrew the bolts M6 from side cover of
filterbox. Remove the cover and take out the old filter. When fitting a new one be sure to sit it
truly, the side cover is also centring element.
4.16. Exhaust silencers exchange

Silencers should be exchanged after 25 000 km.

4.17. Carburettor
Technical data
The carburettor setting is determined according to tests results. Basic adjustment is
done by the factory. Needle position is 1st notch from the top. Idle screw is backed off by 2
turn. Level of fuel in float chamber is 11+/- 1 mm (measured from carburettor body and float
chamber dividing plane at pressure of 1,837 kPa (250 mm fuel column) Used jets are signed
with SOMET-JIKOV flow values.
Typ 640
Main jet
Auxiliary system jet
Auxiliary air jet
Fuel economizer jet (Ekonostat)
Choke jet
Idle jet
Auxiliary idle jet (at idling orifice)
Idle screw
Needle position
Needle valve

100
72
120
50
85
40
80
1 0,5 ot.
1st Notch from top
2

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Legend
1 Sleeve valve, complete
2 Needle valve, 2 complete
3 Idle jet (40)
4 Jet of auxiliary system (72)
5 Main jet (640 - 100)
6 Fuel metering needle
7 Needle securing clip

Carburettor is for better starting equiped with

choke, which is controlled by lever on
carburettor body. The choke is on in its
upper position, off in lower position.

V.

ELECTRICAL EQUIPEMENT

5.1.

List of bulbs
Bulb H4
Bulb
Bulb
Bulb
Bulb
Bulb
Bulb
Bulb
Bulb

12V-60/55W
12V-45/40W
12V-R10W
12V-21W
12V-R5W
12V-4W
12V-2W
12V-2W
12V-2W

Use

Pcs.

Headlamp
Headlamp
Brake light
Indicators
Rear light
Parking light
Control lamp
Speedometer lighting
Rev counter lighting

1
1
1
4
1
1
4
2
2

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Adjustment of headlamp and rear suspension

Load of motorcycle
No load
1 person
2 persons
2 persons + baggage

Position II.
1
1
-

Rear suspension setting

Position III.
2
-

1 headlamp in basic position 1,3%

Position IV.
2

2 headlamp in inclination position

5.2.
Exchange of bulbs in headlight
Take out the headlamp insert, remove the terminal board and then push and rotate the
plastic socket anti-clockwise to disengage it. By pulling it out, you will also release the socket
of the parking light bulb so that it can be removed from the headlamp reflector insert. To
remove the main twin filament bulb, proceed the same way. When reinstalling it, take care
that it fits correctly in the cut outs of the headlamp insert. Likewise the collar of the plastic
socket must fit in the recess of the headlamp insert collar and the flexible contact must touch
the base of parking light bulb.
5.3.

Spark plugs (shoes without resistor)

Make
type
BRISK
NR15C, N15C
CHAMPION
L78
5.4.
Ignition advance adjustment
Ignition advance is adjusted on value
2,5 mm before T.D.C. of piston. When
mounting a sensor, the marking onsensor
capture is positioned against on stator plate.
5.5.
Contactless ignition
The set of contactless ignition contains of
magneto A67-1 (rotor A67R-1, stator A67S1), sensor SO1T, regulator R67 and ignition
coil Z67. High voltage cable outlets from
ignition coil are protected by rubber hood.
The reverse binding (reversal of poles) of battery causes damage on regulator R 67. The
alluminium plate of stator is fixed to crankcase with 3 screws M6x20 cheese head and with
one screw M6x20 steeple head (sensor). The sensor is fixed to sheet holder and is fastened
with screw M6x16 top stator plate. When shifting the sensor, the ignition advance can be
adjusted. The distance between sensor and rotor projection is 0,4-0,5 mm. Use jig S-97 for
driving the rotor. Any change of connection, eventually thickness of wires which doesnt
correspond to the original cables is forbidden.

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Set of source and ignition system Vape (technical description for service purposes)
The set contains :
- electronic switch Z67 - ignition coil with two high voltage outlets for two plugs of two
stroke engine, controlling element of performance which governs primary coil winding
- regulator R67 - electronically controlled semiconduct power - rectifier , which maintains
the central value of direct-current voltage=14 V in electrical network and on battery of 12 V.
The controlling and performance circuit is built in alluminium cover serving as a cooler of
power-rectifier.
- sensor S01 - induct. sensor containing permanent magnet and coil with winding. The
voltage puls induce itself into coil at the moment when projection placed on outer circuit of
rotor jacket is passing the sensor core.
- alternator A67 - alternator is composed of stator and rotor. On stator (star-shaped form) is
placed one black coil (feeding ignition coil Z67) , 10 source coils (serving as chargers of
battery - through regulator R67 - and of lighting of motorcycle. Rotor contains 12 pcs of
permanent magnets, there are two projections on circuit determining together with sensor S01
the moment of spark flashover. The spark is generated twice to one engine revolution always
at the moment when projection is passing the
sensor core.
The mentioned system differs in concept
from existing system Vape type Z04. The coil
Z67 is based on principle of capacity , i.e.
energy for spark is obtained of condenser
discharging. The source of current for this
condenser is one black coil on alternator stator
A67, i.e. not battery 12V. This is the basic
difference when comparing with existing system
Vape Z04 where the energy source was the
battery 12V.
As there is no connection between
ignition coil Z67 and battery 12V (with
exception to the connection through
motorcycle frame), the spark will be generated
even if the battery is not mounted on
motorcycle. As regards the placement of Z67,
there is still valid the requirement of the same
building-up as for former Z04. It means to
place coil into cooling air flow and to move it
maximum away from emitted heat of cylinders
head. The advantage of coil Z67 is the
decreased heating-up when idling engine
revolutions.
Coil Z67 collaborating with rotor A67 does not enable to start up the engine on opposite
side than wished following to marked projection on outer circuit of rotor jacket and input
circuits in coil Z67.
The using of sensor S01 is very similar to that of system Z04. For the correct function it s
obligatory to keep the prescribed space between S01 and projection on rotor. The correct
setting-up oscillates between 0,4 - 0,5 mm. If it is not possible to maintain this spacing, we
chose as priority lower spacing (0,3 mm) than higher one.
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On testing machine it s not recommended to let turn alternator A67 to opposite side than the
engine operation is prescribed, i.e to more than 1.300 engine revolutions/min . During this
working operation the voltage on condenser is getting increased over 400V. When opposite
side of alternator working, the coil Z67 will only run on 2.000 revolut./min. approx.
Controlling on testing machine we can notice when sudden change of revolutions, e.g. from
1.000 rev./min.to the right instantly to 1.000 rev./min. to the left, following situation :
immediately after the changement of revolut.direction, the coil Z67 sparkles even when
opposite (lefthand) run and approx. within 0,5 sec. this effect is disappearing ( the switch
doesn t sparkle). This "memory" effect can be called as normal.
The system of charging the battery and lighting of motorcycle is based on another
principle than the existing one , which is using alternator with rotor excitation through
carbons.
Alternator A67 is using as an energy source the permanent magnets the energy of those is
induced innto coils on stator during rotor revolutions. The outlets (cables) from alternator
A67:
- two wires - one red and one white charging condensor in coil Z67
- two black wires charging the battery 12V via regulator R67 and providing current for
lighting
The voltage induced to coils on stator is always alternating. According to the need it has to be
rectified using regulator R67
The principle of regulation : the load (of battery, lamp) is connected and disconnected to
winding on stator in such a way to keep the middle value of direct-current voltage = 14V on
battery. The over energy from alternator A67 is therefore not utilized that means there is
lower coil heating-up on stator A67.

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Notes to individual components :

Sensor S01
Sensor resistance = 200 +- 20%, measured by direct-current ohmmeter. This value is valid
when environs temperature reaches 20 C. If this motorcycle component is heated over the
named temperature, the resistance will be increased on 250 approx. On the other side when
freezing,, the resistance value is inferior to reach approx. 160.
The measured resistance values (at temperature 20 C) inferior to 150 and superior to
250 indicate the defect (e.g. temporary winding short-circuit, event. winding breakage).
The short-circuited sensor S01 ( resistance < 10 ) represents on outlet weak signal and Z67
cannot generate the spark. The totally open circuit S01 can under some circumstances
generate puls voltage, which synchronizes coil Z67 and generates the spark. In this case it is
possible to increase the starting revolutions by signalization. The increased starting
revolutions can also be caused by partial short-circuit.
Puls voltage generated S01 is increasing together with rotor revolutions and is lowest
when starting-up. Its loss is from these reasons most apparent.
The eventual short-circuit of outlet conductor from sensor S01 on frame doesn t lead
to its dammage.
The switch of the sensor outlet on + battery pole doesn t damage sensor, if this
wrong switching on is repaired within 5minutes approx.. On the contrary the switching on
S01 to alternator circuit (e.g. through short-circuit in motorcycle cables) can cause damage of
this sensor.
In all these cases motorcycle stops, because the spark won t anyway be generated or
it will be on wrong engine cycle place. Being thus wrongly switched on and at the same time
the alternator winding and coil Z67 are connected, too, there is a danger of damaging the coil
Z67.
Summary : no harm for S01 to be short-circuited on frame, but the damage can be caused by
connection to another sources of electrical voltage.
Coil Z67
The source of energy is the charging (black) coil on stator. It is connected by means of
two conductors (red and white). The blue conductor serves to switching off the engine and
can be short-circuited on motorcycle frame only(= coil center Z67). The yellow conductor is
connected to sensor S01.
On high-voltage outlets one can read as far as 35 kV voltage . One spark is always
positive and the second one always negative. One spark is always in advance 2,5 mm in front
of the top dead center and second one always in the engine exhaust phase. After the revolution
of engine of 18 the situation interchanges. The cylinder in "exhaust" is in front of the top
dead center etc. The coil center becomes thus the frame point of Z67.
Diagnosis :
1. The resistance between yellow conductor and frame = 120 ( direct-current)
2.The resistance between blue conductor and frame is very high(> 50 k ). This indication is
informative only and can be influenced by type of testing machine. Practically speaking it is
the information very unreliable for control.
3. The resistance between red and white conductor mutually or against frame is very high,
too (> 40 k ). This information is also very unreliable and the same statement as ad 2) is
valid.
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4. The resistance of secondary winding (measured on Vn outlets) = 6k10%. For first series
(7th month of 1996) the coils with resistance of 7k +- 10%- have been used. The
measurement is in principle direct-current (PU 120 etc.)
Attention !! There cannot be in any case red, white a blue conductors Z67 connected to
battery (even for short period). These conductors cannot be connected to source winding of
alternator (for charging of the battery), neither. This winding on A67 and battery produce high
current (> 5 A) , that usually damages the performance element inside Z67. Subsequently Z67
is definitively out of use.
The big short-circuited currents flowing through coil and its circuits signal different
"burls" on surface of coil casing. This place was affected by local overheating of some part.
When functionning normally, the winding charge in stator is not capable to provide this
damaging performance.
Short-circuit of Vn outlet on frame or short-circuit between Vn outlets mutually do not
menace the coil itself, but the motorcycle stops.
Yellow conductor (from S01) must not be in any case connected
- with charging winding of alternator. Especially under higher revolutions (> 2000
rev./min)
- with winding for headlights and battery charging
The supplied performance will damage quickly (approx.within 10 sec.) the entry parts in Z67.
If there happens to connect yellow conductor to battery, its necessary to disconnect it quickly
( within 5 sec. max.), otherwise the entry parts in Z67 are damaged.
The preceding points show that ( S01 and Z67 being switched on) there is a higher danger
for damaging Z67 than S01 when + battery 12V is getting on connection between S01 and
Z67.
If the engine cannot be switched off by means of blue conductor, one can use from necessity :
a) disconnection of red and white conductors
b) short-circuit of red and white conductors between them
c) short-circuit of yellow conductor on frame
d) disconnection of yellow conductor from S01
All four variants of how to switch off engine can be used when idling only (i.e. up to 2000
rev./min.) with the exception of point d) which can be used even when revolutions exceed
2000 rev./min.
In all the case the frame S01 and frame of coil must be perfectly connected electrically,
otherwise there is a danger of increased starting revolutions , eventually the spark in wrong
advance. If the spark is getting weak its possible that Vn coil is in partial short-circuit. We
shall find it by measuring of secondary winding resistance. (Note : Coil heated in operation
presents resistance of approx. 7k and coil out of operation with environs temperature 20 C
presents resistance of 6 k). Measured resistance bellow 5 k signals partial short-circuit on
coil winding , when winding disconnected (resistance > 20 k) the spark can get weaker.
The other possibility of weakening of the spark is the leakage of red conductor on
frame. This matter is connected with alternator A67, too.

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Alternator A 67
The stator of alternator contains two types of winding.
1. Charging winding for feeding Z67. The resistance of winding = 820 (measured directcurrent). In heated state in operation the resistance will reach 1.000 - 1.200. The voltage
impulses of even 400 V are generating during operation. This winding is providing the
maximum current of approx. 0,2 A. It can be short-circuited without its successive damaging.
The first serie A49 of 1997 presents the resistance of charging coils approx. 1.160 under
temperature 20 C and approx. 1.600 in heated state. The preceding type of stators of
alternator A30 have presented resistance of charging coils of 1.180 +- 10%.
Attention !
Stators A30, A49 and A67 are not in any case interchangeable. The same with rotors A30,
A49 and A67. Rotor A30 doesnt allow to suppress the left-hand engine run.
2. The source winding presents small resistance approx. 0,4 - 0,5. The battery source
winding generates alternating voltage to amplitude 100V. During operation the alternator is
getting warmed up to temperatures near to 100 C. When testing separately from motorcycle it
is necessary always to connect the switch Z67 with charging coils. Not loaded charging
winding provides voltage higher than 1200V under higher revolutions (> 4.000 rev./min).
There is danger of breakdown and dammage of winding.
The core(spider) must be separately connected with motorcycle frame. It is necessary to avoid
the short-circuit on stator core. The windings are insulated even from each other.
If there happens that some of outlet conductors signal the ohmic short-circuit or leakage on
frame, event. short-circuit between windings mutually (black and copper coils), either
decrease of lighting performance and warming of regulator R67 takes place or decrease of
spark performance takes place, because one end of winding for coil Z67 will be framed.
Only 50% of energy will get into Z67. Its very dangerous to connect circuit of charging coils
(black) and source coils (copper) on stator A67. Under higher revolutions (> 2.000 rev./min)
Z67 will be dammaged.
Rotor of alternator contains 12 permanent magnets. Any of two adjoining magnets have
always to have opposite orientation of magnetic field.
Regulator R67
It is monophasic and is connected to source winding on alternator A67 (by means of black
conductors). All needed connections are led through two two-pole and one single-pole
terminal boards.
Two of them (black) represent entries from alternator A67. Both are interchangeable and
equivalent as on A49 as on R30.
Red conductor is connected to + battery pole
White conductor on terminal board is frame. The alluminium cover is conductively connected
to frame by negative pole.
Green-red conductor serves for charging control

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Regulator R67 is warmed up during operation the more the higher performance it is providing
to bulbs and battery. It has to be cooled by air circulation. When motorcycle is on stand,
slight current from battery flows through regulator to frame. This current represents less than
0,5 mA. If the regulator is warmed up, the current is higher (even several mA ). After cooling
of R67, current is decreasing. No need to disconnect battery from regulator when motorcycle
is out of operation.
The most important when in operation is the proper connection of all the resp. parts. The
eventual loss on transitory resistances is influencing intensity of regulated voltage.
The battery cannot be connected with regulator in opposite way. The resulting damage cannot
be repaired. The battery cannot also be changed with some entry terminal connector(from
alternator).
Regulator is set-up on 14,2 to 14,4V with battery charged and without attached" load". If
there are other consumers joint, e.g. 63W (3 x 21W) under 4.000 rev./min., the voltage
decreases to approx.14 V. After warming up R67, the U(REG) is decreasing of about 0,1 to
0,2 V ( saving battery in heated environment).
Regulator R67 allows machine to be in operation even without battery. The output voltage
moves from 12V to 15V according to attached "load" on outlet R67. Most intensive voltage
is registered under lowest "loads"(e.g. 5 W). The "horn" and indicator switches are working
wrongly in such a case The measuring of resistance between individual blades 6,3 on
terminal board , event. against frame can be considered as informative, only. The framed
blade has to have short-circuit on A1 cover R67. Other contacts represent high resistance (50
k and plus). If somewhere the resistance is inferior to 1 k event. if short-circuit appears,
this is the question of defect.
Important values that can be ohmically measured :
1. S01 - resistance = 200 +- 20% under temp. 20 C; direct-current
2. Z67 - resistance of secondary coil = 6 k +- 10% ; direct-current under 20 C
- resistance of yellow conductor against frame = 120
- leakage between secondary coil and other parts Z67 is not permitted
3. A67 - resistance of charging winding = 1.160 +- 10% under 20 C, measured
direct-current
- resistance of current winding = 0,4 to 0,5 under 20 C
- leakage event.short-circuit of
individual windings on stator
core event. between
windings mutually is not
permitted
4. R67 - No resistance can be definitely measured , only the resistance between A1
cover and blade 6,3 mm

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The steps detecting defects in circuit of charging of battery and regulator R67
1. Provided that ignition set is operational
and motorcycle can start
2. Check-up the winding circuit on A67
(0,5 ) by means of ohmmeter
3. Verify that there is not short-circuit of
this winding on frame. Points 2 and 3
execute on disconnected terminal boards of
R67
4. Verify connection of battery pole with regulator R67 pole(frame); check-up ohmically if
the connection really exists
5. If the connections are really O.K. you can connect directly both filaments of auxiliary bulb
40/45W/12V to winding A67 (through disconnected terminal board). This bulb must normally
give light when engine revolutions reach 2.500 rev./min. The alternating voltage moves
around 14 V. If the bulb is alighted , the alternator A67 is O.K. ATTENTION : If the
revolutions exceed the norm the bulb gets burnt
6. If the regulated voltage on battery exceeds 14 V, and all the electrical consumers are
switched off, its R67 which is defected or the battery is discharged
7. If the voltage following point 6 is O.K.and is decreasing to less than 13,3V, under the
revolutions exceeding 3.000 rev./min. with attached "load" of headlight , its either the
battery which is discharged or there is defect on R67 (verified by accumulator).
8. If the battery is O.K. but still discharged = check-up the possibility of short-circuit
somewhere in cables, event. what loads are connected to motorcycle electrical network.
(system overloaded).
9. If all the points 1-8 are O.K. and battery is not yet charged enough , measure what current
is the cause of the discharge through R67, when motorcycle is not running. If current reaches
20 to 30 mA there is defect in regulator
10. Ohmmeter can serve for checking-up R67 if some of the entry phase conductors or +
outlet on battery is not short-circuited on frame or mutually between them. In this case R67 is
defected.
Procedure when detecting defaults in ignition circuit Z67
A. The motorcycle cannot be started-up at all
1. Disconnect Z67 conductors under tank
2. Measure the resistance of winding of charging coils on stator by direct current ohmmeter ;
furtheremore to check-up whether these coils dont have the leakage on machine frame
3. Measure on yellow conductor leading from sensor S01, the correct resistance against
frame,
S01= 200 (sensor placed under right engine cover)
4. Disconnect terminal board at R67 and measure by direct current whether there is not
leakage of charging coils on source winding
Note : Both windings are to be perfectly insulated from each other. If the windings on stator
and resistance S01 are O.K., stator A67 itself is O.K.,too

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5. By ohmmeter verify resistance of yellow conductor against frame (120) at switch Z67 ;
resistance of red and white conductors and blue conductor has to be > 40k - more details
in article conc. Z67
6. Measure Vn coil - resistance = 6k10%
7. Verify whether blue conductor is not by coincidence constantly short-circuited on frame by
fault in cabelling
8. Check-up whether frame S01 is connected to frame Z67
Note : Various bulges and bumps on surface of Z67 signal overheating of Z67. Its necessary
to check-up cabelling and eventual short-circuit into 12V distribution circuit
If all these values are correct and its not still possible to start-up the motorcycle, try on
removing plug if some spark even exists when starting-up
B. There is irregular running of motorcycle or bad start-up
1. Control plugs and cables
2. Measure resistance of Vn coil at Z67
3. Verify circuit S01 (200) and earth
connection between S01 and Z67 by ohmmeter
4. Check-up ohmically the winding of charging coils on
A67 including their eventual leakage on
current winding for headlights
5. Measure by direct current ohmmeter whether red conductor on Z67 is not short-circuited on
frame
6. Verify by compass the polarity of magnet in S01
7. Control if some of wires are not fallen out from rotor A67 . Check-up by means of auxiliary
magnet
changing of magnet polarity in rotor.
8. Check-up the setting up of advance
When analysing the cause we can detect
the default directly in alternator A67 or
in switch Z67, eventually on other place.
The more detailed analysis can be
effected by means of oscilloscope on
testing machine.
5.6. Accumulator 12 V 5Ah (type 12Al)
Description : Accumulator is of closed construction in a container made from transparent
polypropylene. The cover is equipped with 6 battery filler cap with a system of central
deaeration and is made of plast . The outlets are of lead, the same execution with hole 5,5
mm. The outlets are distinguished by indication + and - on cover.
The outlet of deaeration is on the - side of outlet. On the transparent wall of accumumlator
container there is a minimum and maximum level of battery acid indicated by line segments .
Accumulator is supplied in precharged condition. It fulfills Czech state norms SN 36 4316,
SN 364318.and the international ones, too.

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Dimensions of accumulator :
height 130 mm
length 121 mm
width
61 mm
net weight of accumulator
gross weight of filled in accumulator

1,7 kg
2,07 kg

5.6.1. Preparing the battery for operation

Electrolyte filling of accumulator
Adhesive tape placed over the deaeration hole and filler caps is removed and filler caps are
uncapped. Its necessary to fill each cell with electrolyte up to the level of upper mark on
(cover)case. Electrolyte is formed by diluted sulphuric acid according to SN 65 1230norm,
with density of 1,28 g/cm3 and temperature of 25 C. After filling its necessary to let
accumulators plates saturate properly with electrolyte of prescribed density during 20 minutes
without further charging. To check-up and eventually top up the level of electrolyte, to cap
the filler caps, wash off the accumulator, dry up, put on the deaeration tube on outlet of
deaeration and fix the accumulator into motorcycle. The motorcycle has to be immediately
put into operation and go through riding of approx.100 kms.
Charging
The accumulator which is activated after 6 months period from the date of production and
accumulator which is not immediately in operation after being filled with electrolyte, has to
be charged. Likewise accumulator with voltage lower than 12 V and electrolyte with density
lower than 1,26 g/cm3 has to be charged. The accumulator is charged by current of 0,25 - 0,5
A (battery charger) with possibility of air regulation as long as the voltage and density of
electrolyte are not changing any longer.
Note
Charging period depends on state and capacity of accumulator. During the charging its
necessary to follow temperature of accumulator which should not exceed 40 C. After
exceeding the mentioned temperature the accumulator has to be cooled (e.g. by running
water).
When higher density of electrolyte we keep filling up the level by distilled water , only.- The
voltage of fully charged accumulator is 12,6 V, i.e. 2,1 V per cell. From the structural reason
the voltage of individual cells of this type cannot be measured.
When operating the motorcycle the terminal connectors have to be permanently connected
with battery when engine is running. Its not even permissible "trial" disconnecting of
accumulator when engine is running ! We draw also attention to the following situation :
during arc welding the terminal connectors of regulator have always to be disconnected
together with terminal connectors of rectifier (eventually even earth connection eye on
regulator casing).

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Electrical schema of Jawa 350

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VI. OIL PUMP

6.1 Description of lubricating system
Oil pump
Motorcycles equipped with oil pump are from now on greased with fuel mixture but not in
proportion given and mixed beforhand, which is changing subject to revolutions and to travel
of slide valve and oil is taken from separate reservoir.
The used oil pump MIKUNI IM 137-22 is adjusted from producer to basic optimum supplied
quantity of oil for motorcycles JAWA 350 and it cannot be replaced with any other type or
execution without preceding authorization of JAWA MOTO.
The oil pump, powered directly by crankshaft, is placed in left engine cover. The admission to
it can be reached when removing the cap fixed with two bolts. It is fixed to left cover with
two nuts and the sealing is executed with "O" ring No. OS/16 (supplied by MIKUNI).
Oil tank
Oil tank made of transparent plastic material is placed in rear part of underseat space ,
accessible after removing of the seat. It is equipped with filler and withdrawable cap and in
lower part with outlet. The oil tank has the capacity of 1,5 l. In its front part there is mark
indicating minimum oil level.
Oil supply to pump
It is realized by elastic transparent tube. From the reason of assembly this tube is detachable
above the rear engine part.
Oil supply to engine
Oil supply to engine from pump is also realized by elastic transparent tube of smaller profile,
which is connected with check valve "Check No CV-22+/320 " (MIKUNI), placed on upper
part of engine suction branch. This valve prevents from spontaneous oil penetration to suction
branch when engine is in rest.
Oil pump control
Control of oil pump segment and its synchronization with stroke of slide gate oof carburettor
is realized by divided bowden cable. Twist-grip is connected by one bowden with adaptor,
placed on frame under fuel tank. From this adaptor the bowdens of oil pump and of slide gate
of carburettor are leading.
6.2. Preparation of motorcycle
a) Filling of the oil tank with oil for two stroke engines (in inland Mogul TS), incl. feeding
tubes.
b) Unstopping of feeding tube on engine and connection by means of connector with filled
feeding tube from oil tank.
c) Connection of pump bowden with left cover and its cords to operating pump segment acter removing of cover cap.
d) Connection of bowden of carburettor with slide gate

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e) The basic setting of segment for engines 638 (pump type 22) is 15 and is executed as
follows : - insert gauge 638( No.of prod.9.71.87536.4,
width 3,5mm) between segment and attachment stop
- use electric pen to mark new gauge line(B)
(determinating basic setting of oil pump) facing gauge
line on attachment
f) Adjusting of bowden of carburettor . The slide gate has
to be in lowest position
g) When freewheel slide gate position is changed , its
necessary to adjust oil pump bowden following point e)
h) If air vent of oil pump occurs, release the deaeration
screw on face of pump ( above regulating segment) .
After filling the pump with oil tighten the screw and with
slightly increased revolutions we turn over by hand
the segment into maximum position. This procedure
accelerates the deaeration of piping into engine.
Attention ! The oil level has always to be checked-up
after covering 500 kms.
To pic
1 segment
2 attachment

A - original gauge MIKUNI

B - new gauge JAWA

X - space for gauge

6.3. Cleaning out of the oil pipe system

In case of blocked oil pump with filth, its necessary to proceed as follows :
1. Dismantle oil tank from rear part of underseat space of motorcycle. Pour out the oil from
tank and flush the empty tank (spirit, benzine). The original outlet placed in lower part of
tank replace by a new one equipped with sieve (prod.No.451964039013)
2. Flush also the feeding transparent pipe of bigger diameter and proceed following point 2b)
3. Dismantle feeding oil tube to engine from inlet suction branch valve and clean the valve
with compressed air in the direction of oil flow
4. Drain fully the fuel tank and pour in 1 liter of mixture (fuel/oil) 1: 50
5. Cover in a adequate manner the inlet of securing valve, start up the engine and wait until
some 50cm3 of original soiled oil flows out
6. Switch off the engine, loosen securing valve and connect the whole system
7. After refilling the fuel tank and assemby of oil pump on motorcycle, we proceed following
point 2a. Deaerate the oil pump according point 2h.

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CONTENS
Presale service
Technical data
List of special tools
Lubricants
Maintenance plan
List of main bearings and sealing rings
Piston grading
Cylinder grading
List of gudgeon pin bearings

3
3
5
6
7
8
8
9
10

I.
ENGINE
1.1 Removing and refitting cylinder heads and cylinders
1.2. Pistons removing and refitting
1.3. Primary gear, clutch dismantling
1.3.1Reassembly
1.4. Clutch reassembly
1.5. Speedometer drive and sealing
1.6. Kickstarter spring
1.7. Gearshaft with carrier, gear shift pawls
1.8. Removing semi automatic clutch release device
1.9. Adjusting of semi automatic clutch release device
1.10 Secondary sprocket removing and reassembly
1.11 Removing engine from the frame

10
11
13
13
14
14
15
15
15
16
16
16

II.
CRANKCASE DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBLY
2.1. Basic dismantling
2.2. Separating engine halves
2.3. Gearbox shifting, crank mechanism
2.4. Exchange of needle bearing of layshaft
2.5. Check of flatness crankcase joint faces
2.6. Exchange of bearings and sealing rings of crank mechanism
2.6.1.Exchange of sealing rings
2.7. Gearbox
2.8. Joining halves of engine
2.9. Refitting engine into the frame

17
17
18
18
18
18
19
19
21
21

III.
CRANK MECHANISM DISMANTLING AND REFITTING
3.1. Crank mechanism dismantling
3.2. Crank mechanism refitting
3.3. Crank mechanism centering
Crank mechanism tolerances

22
22
23
24

IV.
CHASSIS
4.1. Removing the front wheel
4.2. Removing the rear wheel

26
26
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4.3. Secondary chain

4.3.1.Exchange of secondary chain without removing closed chain guard
4.4. Steering replacement of bearing on the lower bearer.
4.5. Front fork
4.6. Locking of motorcycle
4.7. Removing seat
4.8. Rear suspension
4.9. Rear swingarm
4.10. Rear brake
4.11. Front disc brake
4.12. Exchange of bearings of rear sprocket
4.13. Exchange of bearings of front and rear wheel
4.14. Fuel tank removing
4.15. Removing filterbox/airfilter
4.16. Exhaust silencer
4.17. Carburettor

27
27
28
29
30
30
30
31
31
31
34
34
35
35
35
35

V.
ELECTRICAL EQUIPEMENT
5.1. List of bulbs
5.2. Exchange of bulbs in headlight
5.3. Spark plugs
5.4. Ignition advance adjustment
5.5. Contactless ignition
5.6. Battery 12V 5Ah
5.6.1.Preparing the battery
Electric diagram

36
37
37
37
37
45
46
47

VI.
6.1.
6.2.
6.3.

48
48
49

OIL PUMP
Lubricating system
Preparing of motorcycle
Cleaning of oil system

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WORKSHOP MANUAL
JAWA 350/638,639,640

II. edition 2004

Taking over the text and illustrative information provided in this manual for its further copyright or publishing
is prohibited.
All claims arising from the copyright laws fall axclusively to JAWA Moto.
ISSUED BY:
Commercial Technical Service JAWA Moto spol. s r.o. Tnec nad Szavou, Czech republic.
JAWA Tnec nad Szavou

52