Nutraceuticals and Cosmeceuticals

HAIR CARE PREPARATIONS

(Shampoos)
Types of Hair

Lanugo hair

Develops on an unborn baby.

It begins to grow about three months after the baby's conception.
The hairs are fine and soft, and they grow all over the baby's body.
They grow at the same rate >>> hairs are the same length.
Normally they are shed about four weeks before the baby is due to be born.
Some prematurely born babies are still covered with these hairs.

Vellus Hair

Short hairs, only a centimetre or two long, and contain little or no pigment.
The follicles that produce them do not have oil glands (often called sebaceous
glands)

Terminal Hair

Long hairs that grow on the head and in many people on the body, arms and legs too.

Produced by follicles with sebaceous glands.

Balding people >>> the hairs in these follicles gradually become thinner and shorter
until they look like vellus hairs.

Hair Structure

Hair is composed of strong structural protein called keratin (protein that makes up the nails
and the outer layer of skin)

Each strand of hair consists of three layers.

An innermost layer or medulla which is only present in large thick hairs.

The middle layer known as the cortex >>> provides strength and both the color and
the texture of hair.

The outermost layer is known as the cuticle >>> thin and colorless and serves as a
protector of the cortex.

Hair root

Below the surface of the skin is the hair root >>> enclosed within a hair follicle.

At the base of the hair follicle is the dermal papilla.

The dermal papilla is feed by the bloodstream which carries nourishment to produce
new hair.

Important to hair growth >>> contains receptors for male hormones and androgens.

Androgens regulate hair growth and in scalp hair >>> may cause the hair follicle to
get progressively smaller >>> hairs become finer in individuals who are genetically
predisposed to this type of hair loss.

Surfactants In Shampoo

Surfactants are compound with dual affinity >>> They are both lipophilic and hydrophilic.

They are lipophilic by their hydrocarbon (mostly 12-14 carbon) fatty chain >>> links to
greasy/fatty soil

The hydrophilic polar head group at the end of the chain makes them soluble in water

Surfactants are divided into four main categories according to their polar head type:
anionics, cationics, amphoterics, and nonionics

Anionic Surfactants

Anionic surfactants most commonly used are the alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates
>>>> derived from the sulfation of fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylene analogs.

They are available as sodium, ammonium, monoethanolamine, or tri-ethanolamine salts

They exhibit remarkable cleaning and foaming properties.

Highly water-soluble >>> enable the formulation of clear shampoos

Other types of anionics that may be used are olefin sulfonates and paraffin sulfonates

More expensive, more sophisticated, fine surfactants whose foaming and cleaning
properties are a little less efficient but are milder and more suitable for sensitive hair and
scalp: >>>alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alkyl isethionates, alkyl
sarcosinates, acyl methyltaurates and acyl peptides
Cationic surfactants

The polar head of cationics has a positive charge

Cationics show high-affinity for hair fiber >>> impart softness and ease of combing while
reducing flyaway.

The cosmetic characteristics of cationic surfactants and their beneficial effect on hair
surface condition >>> appropriate for the care of damaged hair.

Cationics are poor cleansing and lathering surfactants

They may give rise to some redeposition of grease onto the hair shaft.

Lack of compatibility with anionic surfactants further limits their potential in shampoo
formulations.

Cationics are combined with nonionic surfactants to specific shampoos designed for dyed,
bleached, or very dry hair.

Their use is widespread in conditioners, as the basic components.

Amphoteric surfactants
Amphoterics bear both an anionic and a cationic group:

They behave as cationics at lower pH values and as anionics at higher pH values >>>> they
exhibit properties between those of anionics and cationics.

Amphoterics complex with anionics >>> reducing the latters tendency to adsorb onto
proteins.

Having moderate foaming and cleaning properties, amphoterics are generally combined
with other surfactants in the formulation of mild shampoos

The most often used amphoterics are betaines, sulfobetaines, imidazolinium derivatives
(eg, Miranol C2M) and alkylaminoacids (eg, Deriphats)

Nonionic surfactants

In contrast to other surfactants >>> nonionics have no polar head and no electric charge
>>> therefore compatible with all other categories of surfactant.

They are generally considered the mildest of all surfactants.

They have good dispersing, emulsifying and detergent properties, but their use has been
restricted due to poor foaming capacity.

They serve more as auxiliary cleaning agents.

Highly tolerated by the skin >>> used in the development of very mild shampoos combined
with alkyl ether sulfates or amphoterics.

The most commonly used nonionics are polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols and
polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters (eg, Tweens), and alkyl
polyglucosides (ie, sugar derivatives with grafted fatty chains)

Natural surfactants

Natural surfactants consist mainly of saponins, which are found in various plant species e.g
soap bark, soapwort, sarsaparilla and ivy.

The hydrophilic component is a sugar, which makes them similar to nonionics.

Their lipophilic moiety, either a steroid or a triterpene, often bears an acidic or basic group.

E.g: soap bark >>> lipophilic moiety is quillaic acid.

These saponins make a very good lather but have low cleansing properties.

High concentrations are needed to yield sufficient detergency.

At these concentrations, saponins are harsh and may results in unfavorable cosmetic
characteristics.

Therefore, natural surfactants are generally combined with or supplemented by synthetic

surfactants to ensure good cleansing and satisfactory cosmetic qualities.

Formulating a shampoo

Need to develop a cleansing system >>> not selective, not too detersive >>>> well suited
to scalp and hair while having cosmetic benefits >>>> GREAT CHALLENGE

>> To beautify, cleanse, or specifically treat the hair, >>> even the simplest shampoo
formulation has to be composed of a variety of ingredients.

Basic Shampoo Formulation

A shampoo comprises a mixture of several surfactants >>> a single surfactant can seldom
adequately ensure all the aspects of the process.

Common ingredient(s) are; foam stabilizer(s) or softener(s) or both; texture and pH

modulator(s); opacifier(s) or pearlescent(s); chelating agent(s); preservative(s); and
perfume and colorant(s).

Conditioning Additives

These are intended to impart softness and gloss, to reduce flyaway, and to enhance
disentangling facility.

They are particularly useful in shampoos for dry and damaged hair giving major effect on
the feel, appearance, manageability, and aesthetic and cosmetic qualities of hair after
shampooing.

They are mostly fatty ingredients: fatty alcohols, lanolin derivatives, vegetable or mineral
oils or waxes, lecithins, essential fatty acid and derivatives, hydrolyzed proteins (keratin,
collagen, silk,wheat, soya), and quaternized (cationic) derivatives, silicones, and cationic
polymers.

Antioxidants, sunscreens, vitamins, and panthenol are also used.

Use of cationic polymers and silicones as conditioner >>> a breakthrough in the approach
to conditioning hair.

Cationic surfactants are the preferred agents for smoothing and softening the hair shaft, for
reducing friction when combing hair, and for neutralizing static electricity. >>> But they
are not compatible with anionic surfactants, which are the major cleansing agents used in
shampoos.

Cationic polymers differ from cationic surfactants >>> the cationic ends are not attached
to a fatty (hydrocarbon) chain but are part of a macromolecular structure either grafted onto
the bone of the polymeric chain or components of the bone

These polymers leave a continuous smoothing film on hair, >>> protect fragile or damaged
hair from external harm.

A number of cationic polymers are available: derivatives of cellulose, starch, guar gum,
chitin, silicones, polyamines and various synthetic copolymers.

Anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers are also used to contribute consistency,
bounce, and body to hair.

Silicones are another source of multiform materials that are being increasingly used by
cosmeticians to provide specific benefits to hair condition and care.

Because of their low surface energy, silicones, though often high in viscosity, are
characterised by a lubricant with nonwaxy feel.

They have high spreading coefficients and are readily spread over the surface of hair,
including the distal ends >>> forming a thin, uniform, hydrophobic film that increases
luster and gloss.

The lubricant nature of the film reduces interfiber friction, resulting in less need for
combing force >>> less damage during grooming >>> Each hair becomes lighter, freer, and
more elastic

Silicones are adaptable polymers: their polysiloxane backbone >>> may be varied by
modification of the molecular weight or attachment of different functional groups to yield
anything from a fluid to a very viscous oil or wax >>>> to confer various properties and to
meet the various needs of different hair types

Foam Stabilisers

Foam is an attribute highly prized by consumers.

Psychologically it is associated with the cleaning effect, but it is also an indicator that the
cleansing job has been achieved

Foaming properties include the onset of the lather; its volume; its softness, texture, and
stability; and its removal by rinsing.

These properties are brought about mostly by the addition of alkanolamides or some
amphoteric polymers

Thickeners

Texture and richness are provided by natural gums (karaya, tragacanth), cellulose
hydrocolIoids (hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, or carboxymethyl celluloses), and
carboxyvinylic polymers (eg, Carbopol).

Viscosity is controlled by salts such as sodium or ammonium chloride and hexylene glycol.

Pearlescents or opacifiers

These are added to change the appearance of shampoos

They also play a softening role.

Long-chain fatty alcohols, sulfates, or ethylene glycol and magnesium distearates are used
primarily. E.g : Glycol distearate

Chelating agents

These are intended to trap traces of metal salts in order to prevent the formation of
insoluble complexes or salts as well as the catalytic degradation of fragrance or colorants.

EDTA salts are used mostly.

Preservatives/Fragrance/Colour

Preservatives are intended to inhibit bacteriologic contamination on storage and until the
end of use. E.g : 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane (Bronidox)

Fragrance/ colour give each shampoo an individual identity and add to its attractiveness.

Special care ingredients

These are aimed at modifying unesthetic events, such as dandruff or greasy hair.

Most often based on pyridinethione salts, piroctone olamine, sulfur-containing compounds,

tars, and essential oils.

Types of shampoo

Shampoos may be marketed as clear or opaque liquids, liquid creams, gels, mousses, or
powders (dry shampoos).

Most shampoos are offered in liquid form >>> enables easy spreading on a wet scalp while
they rapidly generate generous foam over the whole head

Cream shampoos are an enriched form of liquid shampoos, thickener and pearlescent >>>
intended to convey the concept of the more intensive conditioning they are designed to
provide.

They are often packaged in jars or tubes.

Mousse shampoos are a sophisticated presentation of liquid shampoo as an aerosol that has
the advantage of delivering shampoo with a very soft feeling when applied.

Dry shampoo

Dry shampoos are very different.

They do not contain surfactants and do not require the use of water.

They perform rapid cleaning to refresh the look, lightness and volume of hair between
washings.

The action takes less time than that of a wet shampoo because it does not necessitate
rinsing, drying, and styling - an important consideration for people with dense hair.

Dry shampoos usually are powders available in aerosol form and containing absorbent
materials (rice or corn starch) to take up sebum and abrasive materials to shift soil and
alkaline agents (borax, sodium carbonate).

They are removed by brushing.

This is a superficial transient cleaning, used as an interim measure before the next water
shampoo.

Ordinary Shampoo

This type of shampoo is commonly used by families and is economically priced.

Their goal is to obtain good lather and to cleanse the hair well without excessive detergent
action, at a relatively low cost.

These shampoos are generally based on anionic surfactants such as alkyl sulfates and alkyl
ether sulfates.

Their distinctive image is usually a natural,plant or biologic ingredient

Fragrance is important.

They have no specific features; they should be versatile, but it is possible to adapt them for
different types of hair (dry or greasy) by varying the nature of the surfactant mixture, the
amount of surfactants or the additives.

Simple shampoos, they have to be agreeable to use with an image of mildness.

Mild Shampoo

In most countries, changes in hygiene habits, increased participation in sports and the use
of various styling aids have all resulted in the increasingly frequent use of shampoos.

Yet whether frequent use of shampoo because of greasy hair, air pollution, sweat generated
by physical activity, or cosmetic coating, >>> it is important to avoid excessive detergency.

An adequate combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is selected to ensure

mildness to hair and scalp while the shampoo retains the ability to cleanse hair that may be
exposed to soil.

Such shampoos are also carefully fine-tuned in their conditioning features to contribute
beauty and manageability of hair and at the same time to avoid buildup due to repeated
deposits of conditioning agents that would weigh down the hair.

Baby Shampoo

the ultimate development of mild shampoos.

Their prime requisite is complete tolerance by the tender scalp and eye mucosa of infants.

A three-component blend of very mild anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants is

used as a cleansing base to prevent any stinging when it comes into contact with eye.

Beauty Shampoo

Beauty shampoos are created to provide excellent qualities in use, mild cleansing, and light
and shining hair.

The formulation approach is similar to that of mild shampoos

Use a mixture of amphoteric and various anionic surfactants (alkyl ether sulfates,
sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether carboxylates) and a limited quantity of conditioning additives
to enhance hair beauty.

Conditioning shampoo

In addition to good and pleasant foaming and.cleansing properties, shampoos in this

category should impart marked cosmetic benefits to the hair and alleviate the defects
related to certain types of hair.

To dry hair they should give softness, easier grooming, and luster.
To greasy hair they should impart volume and lightness and reduce weighing down
from regreasing.

To fine hair they should provide bounce, body, and hold.

To damaged hair they should give back smoothness, gloss,and manageability.

Formulating these shampoos demands a more elaborate process than for the other types.

This can be obtained by a combination of anionics (alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates)
and amphoterics (betaines and imidazolinium derivatives).

Cosmetic qualities are contributed, for the most part, by cationic polymers or silicones.

Special care shampoos

Shampoos for dyed or permed hair

They should not negatively affect color or perm.

Detergency should be well balanced, and the surfactant system should produce the desired
quality of foam texture and volume.

For that purpose, either an anionic/amphoteric combination or a cationic surfactant base is

used.

A polymer (cationic, amphoteric, mixed) specific to the hair type is added to provide the
conditioning properties.

SPECIFIC TO SCALP CONDITION

These shampoos are mainly for use on the scalp affected with dandruff or excess greasiness

They are generally formulated around one or more specific ingredients selected for their
effectiveness on these conditions.

The fight against dandruff is aimed at Pifyrosporum ovale, whose proliferation induces an
inflammatory process reflected by a scaling condition and itching.

Specific inhibitors of this yeast must form part of the formulation: piroctone olamine, zinc
pyridinethione, selenium disulfide, and plant extract or coal tars

For the greasy hair type, anionic shampoos with mild but efficient action are generally
preferred because they come in contact with a scalp that is often in poor condition and in
need of restoration.

Significant results have been obtained with a very mild fluid surfactant mixture based on
non-ionic polyglycerol derivatives.

Hair Evaluation

Determination of.

pH

% Solid contents

Rheological evaluation
Dirt dispersion
Cleaning action

 Surface tension
Detergency ability
Foaming ability and foam stability
Skin sensitisation test
Eye irritation test
Hair surface characterisation
Stability studies