PROJECT PLAN

Gazebo
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32

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

Solid construction
hidden steel fasteners
Decorative trimpatterns provided
Complex roof made simple
with step-by-step photos

esides gracing the back yard with its splendor and

calming presence, a gazebo is the perfect place to
entertain. One look at this beauty and youll be
picturing it filled with family and friends, celebrating a graduation or even a backyard wedding.
We designed this 12-ft. dia. gazebo with plenty of eyepleasing trim, from the pattern-cut rails that surround the
seating area to the ball-shaped finial atop the cupola. Yet its
easy to build if you follow our special hints, tips, technical
illustrations and
Cutting List.
Youre no doubt
wondering what this
gem costs to build.
Well, you could pay
$15,000 and let a
contractor have all the
fun, or you could build
it yourself for about
$3,800. You can pocket
the savingsor throw
one really great party.

by David Radtke

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

JULY / AUGUST 2000

33

This gazebo is
builder-friendly
This project is not as difficult as it looks. Think of
it as a series of several
shorter projects with an
end goal in sight for each.
You can make all the decorative parts in your
garage or shop (especially
on rainy days). If you
have several friends help
you with the slab and
framing (promise them
anything), you can
spread these two tasks
over several weeks. A
project like this would
take two experienced carpenters nine working
days from start to finish.
An intermediate do-ityourselfer who has built a
deck should plan this as a
whole summer project.
NOTE: You must have a
site that slopes less than
4 in. over 12 ft. (any more
than this will require
some excavating).

G A Z E B O

Fig. A Overview

67-1/2
DEGREE
BEVEL

3-1/2" DIA. WOOD BALL

S2

CUT FROM
1" THICK
DECKING
CUT
FROM
2x6s

S1
N

TRIM TO OCTAGON SHAPE

T1

7-1/2"
5-1/2"

1-1/2"
1-1/2"

2" SCREW
(TYPICAL)

S2
2-1/4"

R2

S1

1-1/2"

G3

4"

K1

5-1/2"

13-1/2"

N
H2
Q
G3

12"

14-1/4"

T2

CUPOLA SECTION

T1

R1

K1
E
F

12" METAL STRAP

H1

K2

T1

12"
METAL
STRAP

R1

G2
F
J

3/4" QUARTER
ROUND TRIM;
MITER ENDS
(TYPICAL)

J
C1

B, E, F,
H1, H2

A
H1

D1

G1

67-1/2
CUT SAW KERF
IN POST TO FIT
METAL STRAP
(SEE FIG. B)

H1

3/8" x 3"
BOLT

C2
F
D2

A
2" x 18" x 18"
INLAID STONES

A
D1,
D2

C1,
C2

CONCRETE SLAB

34

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

METAL STANDOFF

G A Z E B O

Cutting List

CL

57-1/2"

KEY
A
EEL ANCHORB
SECTION VIEW)
C1

-1/2"
CL C2

D1
D2
E
F
G1
G2
G3
H1
H2
J
K1
K2
L
M
N

ebo / SlabP
Q

ke
R1
Unger
R2
3D 5/15/00
S1
S2
T1

T2

QTY.
SIZE AND DESCRIPTION
8
3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 102 posts
70" TO 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 56-1/2
8
POST CENTER
top plates
16
7/8 x 3-1/2 x 31 cedar
wrap*
16
7/8 x 3-1/2 x 36 cedar
wrap* 45
DEGREES
16
7/8 x 5-1/4 x 31 cedar
wrap*
TO
16
7/8 x 5-1/4 x74-3/4"
36 cedar
SLAB POINT
wrap*
8
1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50-3/4
cedar headers
22-1/2 DEGREES
30
1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50 cedar
rails
56
3/4 x 5-1/2 x 27 balusters
96
3/4 x 3-1/2 x 8 spandrel
pickets
16
3/4 x 3-1/2 x 13 cupola
pickets (wilson pickets)
280 ft. 3/4 x 3/4 retainer strips
(cut to fit)
16 ft.
3/4 x 3/4 retainer strips
(cut to fit)
16
1-1/8 x 9-1/4 x 22-1/2
corner braces
8
1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 102 lower
rafters
8
1-1/2 x 7-1/4 x 24 rafter
tail buildups
8
3/4 x 1-1/2 x 34 inner
vertical rafter ties
8
1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 32 cupola
rafters
1
3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50
octagonal rafter hub
8
1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 32 outer
vertical rafter ties
16
1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 10
horizontal rafter ties
8
7/8 x 8-1/2 x 6 lower
fascia (cut to length)
8
7/8 x 5-1/2 x 2 upper
fascia (cut to length)
See Fig. A
1
2
See Fig. A
300 ft. 1 x 2-3/4 lower roof
sheathing (5/4 decking
cut in two)
320 ft. 1 x 5-1/2 upper roof
sheathing (5/4 decking)

POST CENTER

4-3/4"

12" STEEL ANCHOR

3/8" DIA. HOLE

4"

CONCRETE SLAB

3-1/2"

Fig. B

3/8" x 2"
CROSS
BOLT

7"
2"

GRAVEL

Concrete Slab
and Paver Detail

CL

57-1/2"

12" STEEL ANCHOR

(SEE SECTION VIEW)

45
DEGREES

70" TO
POST CENTER

72-1/2"
CL
45
DEGREES

3-

74-3/4" TO
SLAB POINT
INSET STONES
2" x 18" x 18"

22-1/2 DEGREES
CL

The slab
You dont have to get the slab dimenit in 18 in. Remove the sod with a
sions perfect, but the closer they
rented sod cutter. Youll need to
come to it, the easier things will be
excavate a 9-in. deep area radiating
later. If you hate doing concrete
out about 78 in. from the conduit.
work, skip this section, photocopy it
After that youll set forms and put in
and give it to your concrete mason. A
a layer of 1/4-in. gravel to the dimensions shown in Fig. B. The idea is to
crew can do the work for about
$1,200 while youre out shopping for
have the outside foot or more of the
lumber or cutting parts (but you can
slab thicker to support the weight of
cut the cost to a couple of hundred if
the structure.
you do it!). Theres also an article in
Build your forms after carefully
ourStory
May 00Number
issue on pouring conexamining Fig. B. Set your circular
in
a
lot
of
gaps
in
this
crete
thatll
fill
saw
at 22-1/2 degrees and cut eight
Story NameGazebo / Slab
subject area. (To order a copy, see
2x8 exterior forms with the short side
Issue
p. 114.) Follow Fig. B closely if you
measuring 57-1/2 in. Screw the forms
EditorDave Radtke
decide to do it yourself.
together with 3-in. deck screws. Have
Art
Unger
BeginDirectorBob
by driving a 2-ft. piece
of
a friend help you align the forms so
Tech
Art conduit
Version3D
5/15/00the eight corners of the forms are all
rigid
electrical
at the
intended center of the gazebo. Drive
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

JULY / AUGUST 2000

35

G A Z E B O
the same distance from the conduit
center. If these measurements are all
equal, your slab will be a perfect octagonget it as close as you can. Drive
3/4 in. x 2-1/2 in. stakes along the
outside of the forms at each intersection, level the forms and screw the
forms to the stakes.
Now build a square inner form for
the patio inlay, 72-1/2 in. on each

side. Center it as shown and drive in

the stakes on the inside of the forms
and screw them together.
The slab will require about 1-1/2
yds. of concrete and four 10-ft. pieces
of No. 4 rebar. Have plenty of help (at
least three strong backs and two
heavy-duty wheelbarrows). Wheelbarrow the concrete and dump it into

TIGHTEN THE NUT

onto the carriage bolt.
Temporarily brace the
4x4s if necessary. Be
sure you have the
standoff screwed to
the posts before you
mark and drill the
hole.

CUT THE POSTS TO LENGTH and mount

the aluminum standoff underneath. Transfer the hole locations in your steel
anchors to the sides of the post.
Drill a
1-1/4 in. recessed
hole followed by a
3/8-in. hole for
the 3-in.
carriage
bolt,

KERF
CUT FOR
STEEL
ANCHOR

CARRIAGE
BOLT

ALUMINUM POST STANDOFF

washer and nut.

CONCRETE SLAB

18" x 18" PAVERS INSET

36

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

G A Z E B O

G A Z E B O
2x6 TOP
PLATES

the forms, lay rebar 4 in. in along the

perimeter, screed the concrete with a
straight 2x4, then run the hand float
over it. Set your anchors in at the
locations shown in Fig. B. Wait till
the concrete is firm (you should have
to push hard to leave a thumbprint).
Smooth it with a steel trowel, cover it
with 4-mil clear plastic and let it set
for two days. Keep kids and pets
away.
SCREW THE 2x6 TOP
PLATES to the 4x4 posts with
3-in. galvanized screws. If your
posts are set properly, the top
plates should all be the same
length. Make any adjustments
to ensure the posts will all be
plumb. Use a level to plumb the
posts and install temporary
bracing (shown in Photo 7). Cut
and install the post wraps C1
and C2 at this time.

4x4 POSTS
(A)

G A Z E B O

Cut your posts to length and bolt

them to the steel strap anchors
Make the anchors by cutting 12-in.
lengths of 1/8-in. x 1-1/8 in. steel and
boring 7/16-in. dia. holes into them
as shown in Fig. B. You can find steel
stock next to the threaded rod at your
home center. For extra grabbing
power for your posts, be sure you put
a bolt and nut into the base before
you push the steel into the concrete.
The 6 in. of steel anchor above the
concrete fits into a saw kerf (Photo 1)
at the base of each post. Cut this kerf
with a circular saw. The blade wont
cut all the way through, so flip the
post over to continue the cut in the
other side. Make the kerf wide
enough so you dont have to struggle
to slip it over the steel anchor.
Before you mark your anchor hole

locations, screw the aluminum post

standoff to the base of the post. These
standoffs keep the post elevated for
protection against rot. Mark the
anchor hole locations as shown in
Photo 1, then drill a 1-1/4 in. hole
1/2 in. deep on each side of the post,
followed by a 3/8-in. hole all the way
through. The 1-1/4 in. hole recesses
the bolt head and nut to make room
for the piece youll nail over the post
later. Grab a buddy to help set the
post while you push the bolt through
the hole and tighten it. Once all the
posts are in place, cut the 2x6 top
plates and screw them to the top of
the posts with a pair of 3-in. deck
screws. Plumb this framework with
some temporary braces.

Give the
posts some
beef and
dimension
by nailing
the cedar
wrap to the
tops and
bottoms
Nail the 1x4 (C1 and
C2) cedar wrap onto
the posts first, then
measure this width
and rip-cut the wider
1x6 to fit (D1 and D2).
Nail the wider wrap to
the post with 8d galvanized casing nails.

JIGSAW

Story Number
BALUSTERS
(G1)
Story NameGazebo
/ Patterns
Issue
EditorDave Radtke
Art DirectorBob Unger
Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00

"

"

28"

20"

CUT THE BALUSTERS and the pickets from 1x6 and 2x6
material. See Fig. C. Sand, prime and paint the pieces before
installing4"them.
8"
12"
16"

0"

Picket and Baluster Patterns

24"

"

"

Fig. C

G A Z E B O

G2
16"

Set up and cut out

the gingerbread pieces
J

2-1/2"

12"

2"

2-1/8"
Story Number
4-1/2"
These
ornate
parts do
take time, but
theres nothing difficult
Story
NameGazebo
/ Patterns
about cutting them. Use the scale drawing
inEIGHT
Figs. C and D to
CUT
Issue
WITH 22-1/2
make a2-1/8"
full-size template and trace the shapes
onto boards.
DEGREE
EditorDave
Dont
think you haveRadtke
to cut all of them inBEVELS
one day.
ON This is the
4-1/2"
THIS SIDE
ArtofDirectorBob
Unger
kind
task you can chip away
at by knocking
off several pieces
CL
3/4"
every day after work. Cut the
lower balusters from 1x6 pine and
DIA. Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00

the upper pickets (G2 and G3) from 1x4 pine. Use a circular saw

28"

8"

24"

4"

1-1/2"
for end cuts and a jigsaw for curves. Once youve finished cutDIA.

20"

ting these pieces, sand the edges and prime and paint them.

Fig. D

"

0"

0"

Bracket Pattern
8"

12"

G2
0"

16"

4"

16"

0"

8"

SPEED
SQUARE

12"

BEVEL CUT
ON SIDE

24"

2-1/2"
2"
BEVEL BOTH SIDES
4"AT 22-1/2 DEGREES

G3

G1

CUT EIGHT
WITH 22-1/2
DEGREE
BEVELS ON
THIS SIDE
4"

12"

K1
2-1/8"

16"

20"

4-1/2"
GLUE
CUT EIGHT
WITH 22-1/2
DEGREE
BEVELS ON
THIS SIDE

2-1/8"
3" SCREWS
12"

8"

8"

12"

4-1/2"
CL

3/4"
DIA.

(J)

12"

1-1/2"
DIA.

1-1/2" DIA.
HOLES

4"

K2

4"

CUT
3/4" DIA.
FROM
HOLES
2x6 x 32"

91"

8"

4"

0"
0"
16"

8"
16"

CUT EIGHT
WITH 22-1/2
DEGREE
45 DEGREES
BEVELS ON
THIS 12"
SIDE
8"

CURVED RAFTER BUILDUP

CUT FROM 2x8

M
G3
G1
CUT THE 16 CORNER BRACKETS from 5/4 x 9-1/4
in. pine (which0"is 1-1/8 in. thick). Note that there are
4"
eight left- and eight right-hand pieces.
16"

20"
40

0"

4"

0"

0"

8"

12"

45 DEGREES

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

4"

8"

12"

16"

20"

G A Z E B O

Cut the corner braces (J) from 5/4

(1-1/8 in. thick) pine (Photo 5). After
you cut the shape, bevel-cut one side
with your circular saw set at 22-1/2

H1

F
BALUSTER (G1)

CEDAR
WRAP (C2)

MITER AND SCREW THE RAILS

AND HEADERS to the posts with
3-in. galvanized screws. Nail the
balusters (G1) to the cleats, which are
nailed to the cedar rails. Use 1-1/4 in.
galvanized nails. A power finish nailer
is handy here.

degrees. Keep in mind that theres a

left and a right corner brace for each
post. Prime and paint these as well.
Nail the corner braces to the post and
rail with 8d galvanized casing nails
after you install the rails, lower balusters, upper pickets and all the cleats.
Use 4d galvanized casing nails to nail
the cleats to the rails.

TOP PLATE

TEMPORARY
UPPER
BRACES

7
SCREW UPPER BRACES to the top
plates (B). These will help stabilize the
structure as you assemble the roof. Be
sure the posts are anchored with
braces as well.

TEMPORARY
LOWER
BRACES

42

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

2"

6"

DIA.
4"
1-1/2"
DIA.

G A Z E B O

The cupola practically builds itself

Story Number
with
this unique rafter system
Story NameGazebo / Patterns
CUT EIGHT
WITH 22-1/2
DEGREE
BEVELS ON
THIS SIDE

28"

12"

8"

4"

0"

Cupola Rafter
24"

24"

K1

BEVEL BOTH SIDES

AT 22-1/2 DEGREES

20"

16"

20"

GLUE
UPPER
RAFTER
PATTERN

3" SCREWS
12"

0"

Fig. E

0"

Issue
EditorDave Radtke
Art DirectorBob Unger
Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00

G3

G1

4"

8"

16"

12"

16"

8"

16"

12"

CUT
FROM
2x6 x 32"

G2

91"
0"

K2

8"

4"

2-1/2"

4"
0"
0"

12"

2"

45 DEGREES2-1/8"

4"

12" 4-1/2" 16"

8"

4"

20"

CUT THE CURVED

CUPOLA
RAFTERS
from the template shown
RAFTER
BUILDUP
CUT EIGHT
in Fig. E. Cut
rafters
CUTthe
FROM
2x8 and the curved rafter tail
2-1/8"
WITH 22-1/2
buildups using the information in Fig. F.
DEGREE
8"

45 DEGREES

8"

0"

4"

8"

12"

20"

16"

BEVELS ON
THIS SIDE

4-1/2"

C
Study Figs.3/4"
A, E and F and Photo 10. L
DIA.
Cut your lower rafters (K1) and screw
1-1/2"
curved rafter
tail buildups (K2) to the
DIA.
12"
ends of the lower rafter. Cut the 1x2
inner and outer verticalCUT
rafter
ties (L
EIGHT
and P). Notice that theseWITH
2x422-1/2
outer
DEGREE
vertical rafter ties have slots
cutON
in
BEVELS
THISand
SIDElower
them
to slip over the upper
16"

Fig. F

0"

rafters. You can cut these slots with a

table saw or circular saw, working
from each end. First cut one side with
multiple passes and then flip the
rafter tie over and cut multiple passes
from the other side. Youll get an
angled slope at the end of the slot
from the roundness of the blade.

Rafter Assembly

4"

0"

SAW
0"
BEVEL
SET AT 45
DEGREES

4"

8"

12"

24"

K1

BEVEL BOTH SIDES

AT 22-1/2 DEGREES

G3

G1

4x4 BLANK
FOR CENTER
HUB (N)

1"
20"

16"
GLUE
3" SCREWS

16"

12"

CUT

8"

91"

K2
4"

45 DEGREES
0"
0"

4"

8"

SHAPE THEFROM
CENTER HUB (N)
into an octagon.
in
2x6 xMeasure
32"
from each side about 1 in. and
12"
cut along this line with your
saw bevel set at a 45-degree
angle. The finished octagon
8"
should be about 1-1/2 in. on a
side.

4"
12"

CURVED RAFTER BUILDUP

CUT FROM 2x8

16"

20"
45 DEGREES

44

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

0"

0"

4"

8"

12"

16"

20"

G A Z E B O

Assemble the rafter sections

before hauling them to the roof
11

RAFTER
TAIL
BUILDUP
(SEE FIG. F)

FASTEN EACH RAFTER SYSTEM to

the center octagonal hub. Install opposite sides one after the other to maintain the shape of the octagon.

NAIL THE ANGLED PLATES (see

Buyers Guide, p. 53) to the rafter and
to the top plates to secure the rafters to
the structure.

12

UPPER
RAFTER (M)

VERTICAL
RAFTER
TIES (P)
ANGLED
PLATE

STEEL
STRAP

RAFTER
ASSEMBLY
SCREWED TO
CENTER HUB

CENTER
HUB (N)

10

NOTE: DONT
DO THIS ON
A WINDY DAY

RAFTER
ASSEMBLY
SCREWED TO
CENTER HUB

ATTACH TWO
OPPOSITE RAFTERS
to the center hub. Then
grab a partner and carefully walk the assembly
up to position. See Photo
11 for nailing detail.

46

CENTER
HUB (N)

TEMPORARY
BRACE

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

Shingle the
cupola first

LOWER
FASCIA
(R1)

P 13"
Q

S2

13

14

SCREW THE HORIZONTAL RAFTER

TIES to the sides of each outer vertical
rafter tie.

S1

NAIL THE LOWER FASCIA (R1) to

the rafter tail ends. Miter the ends with
the saw set at 22-1/2 degrees.

15
MIND LIKE A
STEEL TRAP

16
SHINGLE THE CUPOLA before shingling the lower roof. Otherwise, youll
damage the lower shingles when you
go up and down.

5/4 x 6" CEDAR

DECKING

NAIL THE ROOF DECKING to the rafters with 8d

nails. Be sure to screw (use
3/4-in. screws) the steel
strap to the lower roof
boards for extra support.
The strap ties the narrower
boards together to prevent
sagging.

12" STEEL
STRAP

STARTER COURSES
ARE RIP-CUT TO
MAKE THE CURVE
FASCIA BOARD

Lay out the rafter parts (not including

the center octagonal piece N) on a
large flat area like a garage floor or a
driveway (look at the upper left diagram of Fig. A). Fasten the upper and
lower rafter to the 1x2 (L) with 2-in.
screws. These rafters run parallel,
with a 14-1/2 in. space between them.
Next screw part P into the sides of the
upper and lower rafter so that its
parallel to part L. Build the rest of the
assemblies and then mount a pair to
the center hub (N; see Photo 9). Follow Photos 10 12 to mount the
rafter assemblies to the top plates.

Deck the roof

Cut your lower fascia from 1x10
cedar. Hold it 7/8 in. above the ends
of the rafters so your roof decking will
be flush with the fascia.
Rip 5-1/2 in. decking in half for the
first seven courses so theyll be able to
bend around the lower curved section. Cut each end of the decking at
22-1/2 degrees for the first course and
change the angle slightly until you
finally reach about 16 degrees for the
rest of the full-width courses.
48

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

There are a few things you need to

know about using the Carriage
House Shangle roofing material. First
of all, these shingles are heavy, and a
bit tougher to work with than ordinary asphalt shingles. They also cost
about twice as much, but we thought
the finished look was well worth it.
Dont buy the special cap shingles for
the ridges; full cap shingles will look
out of place. Instead, buy a matching
color of ordinary asphalt shingles.
You can cut these to fit the width and
proportion of this small structure.
At the cupola where the surfaces
are all curved, youll need to remove
the top one-third of each shingle to
get it to lie flat. The cap over the
seams should be cut narrower and
shorter to follow the concave curve.
Another thing to remember for the
lower section: The cap shingles
should be full width, but the length
on the bottom four rows of cap needs
to be cut down several inches to make
the curve.

G A Z E B O

Painting your gazebo

Prime and paint if you please, but keep in mind that painting the
gazebo means a lot of prep and repainting work in the future. Its best
to paint just the gingerbread features as accents, and then seal the
unpainted parts with a brush-on oil sealer. Id recommend applying
the oil first, then painting the next day. Dont bother oiling the
underside of the roof. Because its out of the weather and direct sun,
itll look fresh for years to come.

NO. 15
ROOFING
FELT
EXTEND
SHINGLE
BEYOND
FASCIA
3/4"

DECORATIVE
SHINGLE (SEE
BUYERS GUIDE)

17
SHINGLE EACH LOWER ROOF
SECTION, then move to the opposite
side. Keep the exposure consistent from
side to side by measuring as you go.

50

JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

G A Z E B O
Buyers Guide
The following three products are available at
most home centers and hardware stores. If
you need help finding them, call Simpson
Strong-Tie at (800) 999-5099 or check out its
Web site at www.strongtie.com.
The steel straps at the top plate and on the
roofing are Simpson No. LSTA12.
The angles for the rafter holddowns are
Simpson No. A23.
The standoffs are Simpson No. APS4.
Carriage House Shangles are made by
CertainTeed. Call (800) 345-1145 to find a
dealer near you.
Savannah shingles also are decorative
asphalt shingles and are made by GeorgiaPacific. Call (800) 284-5347 for a dealer near
you. Or check the Web at www.gp.com.

Shopping List
DESCRIPTION
4x4 x 10 cedar (posts)
2x6 x 10 cedar (top plates)
1x4 x 14 cedar (wrap)
1x4 x 8 cedar (wrap)
1x6 x 14 cedar (wrap)
1x6 x 8 cedar (wrap)
2x4 x 10 cedar (rails and headers)
1x6 x 14 cedar (balusters)
1x4 x 8 cedar (pickets)
1x6 x 10 cedar ripped (3/4strips)
5/4 x 10 x 8 cedar (corner braces)
2x6 x 10 cedar (rafters)
2x8 x 8 cedar (rafter buildups)
1x2 x 12 cedar (parts L)
2x6 x 8 cedar (cupola rafters)
4x4 x 5 cedar (octagonal hub)
2x4 x 8 cedar (outer ties P)
2x4 x 14 cedar (horizontal ties Q)
1x10 x 12 cedar (lower fascia)
1x6 x 8 cedar (upper fascia)
5/4 x 6 cedar decking 10-ft. lengths
Shangles (asphalt shingles)
15-lb. roofing felt
Roofing nails
Simpson straps, No. LSTA12
Simpson angles, No. A23
Simpson standoffs, No. APS4
Joist hanger nails (galvanized)
1-1/8 x 1/8 x 8 steel (anchors)
3/8 x 3 carriage bolts
3/8 x 3 hex bolts
3/8 nuts and washers
6d galvanized casing nails
8d galvanized casing nails
4d galvanized casing nails
8d galvanized common nails
Hook blades for shingle cutting
3 galvanized screws
Art Direction BOB UNGAR
Photography BILL ZUEHLKE
Illustrations GENE THOMPSON
Project Design DAVID RADTKE

QTY.
8
4
7
1
7
1
20
10
11
6
4
8
2
2
3
1
3
1
4
2
50
3-1/2
squares
1 roll
10 lbs.
16
16
8
5 lbs.
1
8
8
16
5 lbs.
5 lbs.
5 lbs.
5 lbs.
3
5 lbs.

Given the scope of this project, youd expect it

to take an arsenal of carpentry toolsnot so
Heres what you need to do the concrete base:
Sledgehammer to drive the stakes
Level to even the forms
2x4 screed to even the concrete
A hand float to smooth the concrete
A steel trowel for final finishing

Tape measure
String line
Sod cutter to remove the turf
Shovel to level the ground
Circular saw to cut the forms
Screw gun

Here are the tools you need to build the gazebo:

String line
Tape measure
Wrench set
Drill
Circular saw
Jigsaw (with lots of blades)
Framing square

12-in. Speed square

Hammer
Screw gun
Utility knife (standard blades

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

JULY / AUGUST 2000

and hook blades)

53

Power miter saw (optional)