Centre: of Attention
Centre: of Attention
Centre: of Attention
centre
of attention
The central North Island towns of Taupo and
Rotorua are the heart and soul of New Zealand
tourism and also boast some of the best golf
courses in the country. By Robert Tighe.
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hat’s a ‘welcome to Rotorua’ lie for you there is a host of other quality rural clubs within
right there,” laughs Harry McCulloch, one driving distance to give you a real taste of golf in the
of my playing partners and a former club heartland of New Zealand.
captain at Rotorua Golf Club. Long weekend or even midweek breaks to
My drive on the second hole has come to rest Rotorua and Taupo look set to become increasingly
halfway up (or down if you prefer) one of the popular with Australian golfers, thanks to the
countless bumps and hollows on the Arikikapakapa introduction of direct flights from Sydney to
course (try pronouncing that after a couple of Rotorua. Kiwi golfers are already well aware of the
sociables in the clubhouse). Established in 1906, it attractions of the area which have helped make
was originally a flat course but more than 100 years it one of the most popular golfing destinations in
of geothermal activity has transformed it into a New Zealand. Wairakei has long been regarded by
distinctly undulating track. many as one of the best courses in the country and
The geothermal activity in the centre of the just 20 minutes away is one of the undiscovered
North Island has been responsible for more than gems of New Zealand golf, Kinloch.
just reshaping the local golf course. Tourists have The only course in the country designed by
been coming to Rotorua and Taupo for many years Jack Nicklaus, it was opened by the man himself
to experience the spas, hot baths and spectacular in February 2008. It may be a young course, but
geysers dotted around the region. The area is also a Kinloch plays and feels very much like an old classic
hotbed of Maori tourism and the recently upgraded links. Gnarly Scots Pine trees add some real character
Te Puia centre across the road from the Rotorua Golf to the spectacular sparseness of the front nine. The
Club offers a fascinating insight into the cultural back nine boasts several holes with views of Lake
heritage of the native people of New Zealand. And Taupo (which for all you trivia buffs is the same
then, of course, there is the golf. size as Singapore) and a closing four holes that is
Taupo boasts three championship courses; the equal of any in the country. The par five 18th,
Wairakei International, Kinloch and Centennial, in particular, is a hole you’ll remember long after
one of the two challenging 18-hole layouts at you’ve signed your card.
Taupo Golf Club. Less than an hour’s drive along Measuring an intimidating 6734 metres from
Highway 5 is Rotorua with three great value courses the tournament tees and including two par fives
to choose from. And if you still need a golfing fix, with split fairways, Kinloch is a course that places
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a premium on course management. Wispy grass
borders the undulating fairways waiting to snare any
drive that is slightly astray. Factor in the 139 bunkers
dotted around the course and it should be pretty
obvious that Kinloch is a demanding test of golf.
Tom Long, Director of Golf at Kinloch, reckons
it is a true championship layout and he suggests it
will be a crime if the course doesn’t host the New
Zealand Open in the next ten years. Certainly ‘ol Jack
has designed the course with that in mind as there
are plenty of superb vantage points and any number
of made-for-television vistas.
The real crime at the moment is that so few
golfers have discovered Kinloch. Yes, the property
development side of the business has had its share
of problems and bad press in New Zealand, but
www.wairakei.co.nz
judged purely on its merits as a golf course, Kinloch
is a stunning success. The one bonus of Kinloch’s
relatively low profile is you can play a full nine holes,
as I did, without seeing another group on the course
and that is a pretty special golfing experience in its
own right. Take advantage of it while you can.
The contrast with Wairakei couldn’t be more
striking. Although they are only 20 minutes apart,
the car park at Wairakei on the morning I visit is
jammed. And the number of people on the course
isn’t the only difference . A round at Kinloch is like
tramping in the back country of New Zealand,
whereas a walk around Wairakei feels like a day out
in a botanical garden. At Kinloch the quiet solitude
is almost deafening. At Wairakei the humming of
the cicadas provides a constant background noise.
Kinloch has a wild, raw, almost untamed feel about
it. Wairakei is all pampered perfection.
Built by the New Zealand Government and
designed in part by Australian legend Peter
Thomson, Wairakei was officially opened in 1970,
yet it feels like the golf course has been there
forever. You get the sense that this place was always
destined to be a golf course.
The best word to describe Wairakei is epic. Golfers
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on the green ahead of you are dwarfed by the tall is the unique setting in the heart of an active
timber that defines the course. The scale and variety geothermal area. A sign on the par-3 9th warns
of trees and plant life is breathtaking and a recent golfers to ‘ignore the thermal wasteland to the
$2 million ecological restoration project will make right. On the green is where you must be.’ Of course
it a haven for plant and birdlife. The 150 hectare smack bang in the middle of the thermal wasteland
property has been enclosed by a pest-proof fence is where my ball lands and it takes me three shots
and construction work on a new pro shop outside to hack it out of the pumice (volcanic rock). I don’t
the perimeter fence will be finished later this year. It venture quite so close to the thermal mud pool just
promises to make an already special experience even
more memorable. As Charlie, a greenkeeper and
another one of my playing partners at Rotorua Golf Opposite page from top: The 16th hole at Kinloch;
Club put it: “Wairakei just makes you feel good.” the 14th at Wairakei International.
Rotorua isn’t quite in the same league as Kinloch Above left to right: Acacia Cliffs Lodge; Bayview
or Wairakei, but it has a lot going for it. Not least Wairakei Resort.
GRF
a couple of hundred metres from the 17th tee, a
bubbling, boiling mass of grey mud. These added
bonuses make Rotorua one of the best value courses
in the area.
If you are spoiled for choice when it comes to golf
courses in the region, then the same can be said
about accommodation options. Bayview Wairakei
Resort offers some of the best value accommodation
in the area. Located across the road from Wairakei
International and with its own nine hole course
to hone your game before you take on the
championship course, Bayview Wairakei is an ideal
base for your Rotorua/Taupo experience.
For something a little more unique, Dunalistair
House is the only property on the grounds of the
Kinloch Club. A five-star holiday home and winner
of the Architectural Designers of NZ Supreme Home
of the Year for 2009, this state-of-the-art home has
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