This document provides instructions for modifying a Vectra air box to allow more air intake through a 3-pipe system. It involves cutting one intake pipe shorter inside the air box and removing two resonator pipes outside the air box. Cutting the pipes opens them up to increase air flow while maintaining air box functionality. The modification requires basic tools and can provide improved engine performance with a simpler air filter setup.
This document provides instructions for modifying a Vectra air box to allow more air intake through a 3-pipe system. It involves cutting one intake pipe shorter inside the air box and removing two resonator pipes outside the air box. Cutting the pipes opens them up to increase air flow while maintaining air box functionality. The modification requires basic tools and can provide improved engine performance with a simpler air filter setup.
This document provides instructions for modifying a Vectra air box to allow more air intake through a 3-pipe system. It involves cutting one intake pipe shorter inside the air box and removing two resonator pipes outside the air box. Cutting the pipes opens them up to increase air flow while maintaining air box functionality. The modification requires basic tools and can provide improved engine performance with a simpler air filter setup.
This document provides instructions for modifying a Vectra air box to allow more air intake through a 3-pipe system. It involves cutting one intake pipe shorter inside the air box and removing two resonator pipes outside the air box. Cutting the pipes opens them up to increase air flow while maintaining air box functionality. The modification requires basic tools and can provide improved engine performance with a simpler air filter setup.
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How 2 - Vectra 3-Pipe Mod
Taken from Vectra-Sri.co.uk because the site is no longer up.
If I have done wrong please remove This guide illustrates how2 carry out the 3-pipe air box modification which allows a larger, easier supply of air simply by using a different panel filter (I used a Pipercross foam filter on mines), and modifying the standard air intake trunking. This modification could be carried out with the bumper in place, but for ease of access I decided to remove the bumper (it was coming off for painting anyway). Tools Required Stanley knife, pliers, Flat head screw driver, Junior hacksaw, sand paper. Step1: Remove the lid of the air box by undoing the silver clips around the edge of the clip, then slacken off the Jubilee clip on the top of the box removing the trunking from the air box to the throttle body allowing the lid to be moved out the way. Remove panel filter. Step 2 (pipe 1): Upon removing the filter you will see a long tube protruding into the air box. Using a Stanley knife cut this pipe down until around 1inch remains protruding into the box (note: there is a metal spiral inside this tube helping its rigidity you will need to use the pliers to cut this spiral where you cut the pipe down. End result the airbox can now be put back together again (Top Tip: as the clips are hard to both clip on and also to get to on the outside edge, use and old length of electrical cable to hook around the clips allowing them to be easily put on). Step 2 (pipe 2): There are 3 pipes outside the air box (one air intake and 2 resonator pipes). The 1st resonator pipe is located under the drivers headlight behind the wheel splash guard: Using the Junior hacksaw, cut the end of this pipe off at a 90degree opening it up and allowing air in (note: once cut use the sand paper to tidy the edge up). Step 3 (The 3rd and final pipe): The final (2nd resonator pipe), is situated along the front panel of the car and requires access from beneath. Locate the pipe and remove it completely (is push fit into the other trunking at the air box end and has 2 clips holding it onto the front panel). As with the 1st resonator pipe, cut the blank end off and use sand paper to tidy up rough edges. Then re-fit. You can get to this pipe by removing the front grill and using a hacksaw blade on its own. Few tips.... 1. One of the inner arch push pins (with the centre peg) on both side backs into a hollow support. You will lose a pin on both sides. I found a self tapper sorted this or have the pins ready if you know you are going to it. 2. (Removing front bumper) I found the nearside fog light had a cable tie fastening the wire to the bumper. Luckily I noticed this before I pulled the bumper off. 3. (Removing/Refitting front bumper) Always useful to have 2 peeps, much less chance of damage. 4. I took the 2 resonator pipes off and cut the other one down. At first startup after wards, the car seemed to be lost. Started idelling at 1200-1300 revs, G/PH 1.1-1.2. Went up and down a bit but settled to G/PH .4-.5 after 20 secs.A blip of the accelerator and it settled back to G/PH .3 - this is where it was before. 5. The pipe I cut down, I used a stanley knife as this left me with a much better cut. Followed a line all the away round until I hit the wire, then went the other way until it was only the wire holding it on, then a quick snip and a nice finish.
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