(Reaffirmed 2004)

IS : 1963.1981

Indian Standard
METHODS FOR
DETERMINATION
OF THREADS PER UNIT
LENGTH IN WOVEN FABRICS

( Second Revision)
Physical

Methods

of Test

Sectional

Committee,

TDC

Repfesrnting

Chairman

Cotton

Technological
( ICAR ), Bombay

DR V. SUNDARAP~

Research

Laboratory

Members
DR V. G. MUNSEI ( Alternate to
Dr V. Sundaram )
Ministry of Defcnce ( R & D )
SHRI S. K. AQRAWAL
SHRI J. N. MISEIRA ( Alternate )
Directorate of Marketing & Inspection ( Ministry of
AGRICULTURAL MARKETINQ
Agriculture ), Faridabad
ADVISER TO THE GOVT OP INDIA
SHRI S. JAYARAMAN ( Alternate )
Indian
Jute
Industries*
Research
Association,
DR B. L. BANERJEE
Calcutta
DR U. MUKOPADHAY ( Alternate )
Directorate
General
of
Supplies
& Disposals
SERI A. T. BASAK
( Inspection Wing ), New Delhi
SHRI D. K. NANDY ( Alternate )
Indian Petrochemicals Corporation Ltd, Vadodara
SHRI C. BHATTACHARYA
SHRI H. G. B~ATIA ( Alternate)
Jute Technological
Research Laboratory ( ICAR ))
DR A. C. CEAKRAVARTY
Calcutta
Office
of
the
Jute
Commissioner,
Calcutta
SHRI K. K. CHATTERJEE
Central Silk Board, Bombay
SHRI A. R. S. GOPALACHAR
Ministry of Defence ( DGI )
MAJ A. N. GOSWAMI
SERI P. C. BASU ( Affernate )
Wool
Research Association, Bombay
SHRI S. B. HARDAS
Nirlon Synthetic Fibres & Chemicals Ltd, Bombay
DR V. G. KAMATH
DR A. R. MUPHERJEE ( Alternate )
The Silk & Art Silk Mills Research Association,
SMT A. KAPLESH
Bombay
( Continued on page 2 )

INDIAN

@ Copyright 1981
STANDARDS
INSTITUTION

This publication is protected under the Indian Copyrig& Act ( XIV of 1957 ) and
reproduction
in whole or in part by any means except with written permission of the
publisher shall be deemed to be an infringement of copyright under the said Act.

IS : 1963 - 1981
( Continued from pupc 1)
Representing

Members
DR B. R. MANJUNATHA
Sam J. MOBEDJI ( Atcmotr )
SHRI D. S. NADKARNI
Da M. -G. NARSIAN
SHRI K. P. RAMAKRISHNA PILLAY

Textiles Committee,

Bombay

The National Rayon Corporation Ltd, Bombay

The Raymond Woollen Mills Ltd, Bombay
The South India Textile Research
Association,
Coimbatore
The Bombay Textile Research Association, Bombay
Office of the Textile Commissioner, Bombay

SHRI M. RADHAKRISBNAN
SHRI T.R. RAO
SRRI
S. P. GHOSAL ( Altcrnatc)
Ahmedabad Textile Industrys Research Association,
SHRI T. A. SUBRAMANIAN
Ahmadabad
Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi
FROB N. M. SWANI
DR V. K. KOTHARI ( Alternafe )
M. Best Cotton Rope Manufacturing Co, Bombay
SHRI M. G. THANAWALA
Director General, ISI ( Ex-q/f& Msmber )
SHRI S. M. CHAKRABORTY.
Director-( Tex )
.
Secretary
SERI G. S. ABHYANKAR
Deputy Director ( Tcx ), IS1

IS : 1963- 1981

Indian Standard
METHODS FOR
DETERMINATION OF THREADS PER UNIT
LENGTH IN WOVEN FABRICS
(

Second Revision)
0.

FOREWORD

0.1This Indian

Standard
( Second Revision ) was adopted by the
Indian Standards Institution on 31 January
1981, after the draft
finalized by the Physical Methods of Test Sectional Committee had been
approved by the Textile Division Council.

0.2 This standard was first published in 1961 and revised in 1969. The
standard has now been revised again to make provision of determining
the number of threads per centimetre in addition to per decimetre. This
has become necessary with the adoption of SI units and also adoption
of practice of expressing threads per centimetre in India and abroad.
0.3 Jute industry is an export oriented industry and the overseas consumers use the terms porter and shots for expressing warp and weft
threads per unit length of jute fabrics.
For the convenience of the
overseas consumers conversion factors for converting values of warp
threads per decimetre to porter and weft threads per decimetre to
shots per inch have been given in the standard. ( see Note under 5.3 ).
0.4 Apart from the two methods given in this standard, method
on use of different types of line gratings is also followed.

based

0.5 To familiarize the industry with International System of Units

( SI Units ), the basic SI Units as well as the recommended SI Units for
use in the textile industry are given in Appendix A.
0.5.1 Standards
of SI Units.

of Weights and Measures Act, 1976 also stipulates use

0.6 In reporting the results or analysis of a test made in accordance with

this standard, if the final value, observed or calculated, is to be rounded
off, it shall be done in accordance with IS : 2-1960*.
*Rules

for rounding

off numerical

values ( revised ).

IS : 1963 - 1981
1. SCOPE
1.1 This standard prescribes two methods for determination
threads and weft threads per unit length ( per centimetre
decimetre ) in woven fabrics.

of warp
and per

1.2 The methods are applicable to all textile fabrics irrespective of their
composition ( that is, whether they are made of cotton, wool, silk, jute,
man-made fibres or blends of two or more such fibres ), manufacturing
processes and finishing treatments.
2. TERMINOLOGY
2.0 For the purpose of this standard the following terms, in addition
those given in IS : 232-1967* shall apply.
2.1 Warp Threads
fabric as woven.

The

2.2 Weft Threads length of the fabric.

threads

which

The weft or filling

to

lie along the length of a

threads

which lie across the

2.3 Porter - The value obtained by counting in jute fabric the number
of warp threads per gauge length of 47 mm ( or 37120 in ) and dividing
it by the number of threads per split ( 2 for hessian, 3 for single warp
twill cloth, 4 for double warp plain fabric and 6 for double warp twill
cloth ).
of porter based on the Indian practice refers to the
NOTE - This definition
finished fabric, and has to be distinguished from the Dundec practice according to
which porter is evaluated in terms of loom reed used in weaving the cloth.

thread of weft yarn in jute fabrics running from

2.4 Shot - Single
It is inserted in one passage of the shuttle across
selvedge to selvedge.
the loom.
3. ATMOSPHERIC
TESTING

CONDITIONS

FOR

CONDITIONING

AND

3.1 Prior to.test, the fabric shall be conditioned to moisture equilibrium

from dry side, in the standard atmosphere of 65 f 2 percent relative
humidity and 27 f 2C temperature as prescribed in IS : 6359-1971t.
3.2 The test shall be carried out in a standard

atmosphere

( see 3.1 ).

3.3 The conditioning and testing may also be carried out in prevailing
atmosphere, if agreed between the parties.
*Glossary of textile terms
fbfcthod
for condilioning

fibres
- natural
of textiles.

4,

(Jrst

revision ).

_. ...-. __.__.__ ____~ . ~. ---~--- -

--

IS:1963-1911
4. GENERAL
4.1 Choice

INFORMATION

of Method

Method A ( sm 5 ) individual
threads
counting glass.

of

This method
is
which can be easily

Method B ( see 6 ) dividual

counting

threads
glass.

of which

suitable
for fabrics,
the
identified
with a thread

This method is suitable

for
cannot
be easily identified

fabrics,
the inwith a thread

NOTE - It may be noted that none of these methods may be applicable to certain
special type of fabrics, such as Moleskin, Lappet, Butta, Leno weaves, etc.

4.2 Determination
shall not be made (a) within 50 mm from the selvedges, or (b) within two metres from either end of a piece, roll or bolt.
In case of fabrics having width from 10 cm to 20 cm the selvedge ends
shall be excluded while counting.
NOTE -

This is not applicable

to narrow fabrics.

fabrics
having
width of
4.3 Narrow
Fabrics - In case of narrow
10 cm or less, all warp threads including selvedge ends shall be counted
and expressed as threads per full width.
(a) to deter4.4 Design Fabrics - For design fabrics, it is convenient
mine the number of units in a weave repeat from a point paper diagram,
and (b) to count (i) the number of whole repeats, and (ii) remaining
units, in the distance across which the threads
are to be counted;
and
calculate
from the data so obtained,
the number of threads per centimetre or decimetre,
warpway or weftway as required.
4.5 ITor the purpose of determining
the distance across which the number
of threads is to be counted,
assume the fabric to have the number of
warp and weft threads per centimetre
or decimetre
as in the material
specification,
as specified
in an agreement
between the buyer and the
seller, or by actual determination
of thread count in one or two places.
5. METHOD

A -

BY

TRAVERSING

THREAD

COUNTER

5.1 Apparatus
- A thread counter, equipped with a low power microscope of suitable magnification
and a pointer which traverses along a
graduated
base, shall be used. However, in the absence of such a thread
counter,
an ordinary
counting
glass with an aperture satisfying
the
requirements
of 5.2 may be used.
NOTE -- It is recommended that a table with a ground glass top illuminated
below should be used. Such a table greatly facilitates the work involved.

from

IS:

1963-1981

5.2 Warp

and Weft

Threads

per Centimetre

or Decimetre

5.2.1 Lay on a flat table a portion of one of the pieces constituting

the
test sample and smoothen
it out.
Place the counting
glass with the
pointer at zero on the piece in such a way that (a) on turning
the screw
the pointer
moves in a direction
parallel
or perpendicular
to warp
threads, depending
upon which set of threads ( warp or weft ) is being
counted, and (b) the pointer shall coincide either with the right hand or
the left-hand
edge of a thread,
depending
on whether
the counting
is
started
from right to left or from left to right direction.
Find the
number
of warp or weft threads
by counting
the number
of units
( normally
comprising
one thread and one space ) and including
as a
fraction,
any part of such unit in a distance L ( see 4.5 ), which shall be:

( 200 per
i> 50 mm, if the number of threads are 20 per centimetre
decimetre
) or less;
of threads
are more than 20 per centiii) 20 mm, if the number
metre ( 200 per decimetre
), but less than or equal to 100 per
centimetre
( 1 000 per decimetre
); and
of threads are more than 100 per centiiii) 10 mm, if the number
metre ( 1 000 per decimetre ).
NOTE - Counting edge
. of. the thread counter
. . . should be placed always
.
. either
parallel to the warp threads or perperxilcular to the warp threads as the case
may be.
5.2.2
Following
the procedure
prescribed
in 5.2.1 determine
the
number of warp and weft threads per centimetre
or decimetre
as required, in at least four more places
evenly distributed
along the width and
Avoid counting
same set of warp or weft threads
length of the piece.
Average all the observed values and note the value so
more than once.
obtained
as the number
of warp and weft threads
per centimetre
or
decimetre
in the piece as the case may be.
NOTE - In case of weft threads, it is preferable to have at least 10 readings,
size of the sample permits.

5.2.3 Calculate
the number
of warp and weft threads
or decimetre
as the case may be by the following formula:
n = -:

if the

per centimetre

10 ( or 1GO )*

where
fl= number of threads per cm ( or dm )*;
jV = observed number of threads in the distance
L = distance,
counted;

L; and

expressed in mm, across which the threads

50 or 20 or 10 mm, as the case may be.
6

are

IS:1963
5.3 Determine
in a similar manner
( see 5.2 )
threads per centimetre
or decimetre as required
in the sample and find the mean of the value for
metre or decimetre
as required
and the mean
threads per centimetre
or decimetre,
respectively.

- 1981

warp threads and weft

of the remaining
pieces
warp threads per centiof the value for weft

NOTE - For converting warp threads per cm or dm to porter and weft

threads per cm or dm to shots per inch in case of jute fabrics, the following
conversion factors may be used:
Multiply
~----__--~~_--___-~
Threads/cm by
Threads/dm

i) Porter:
a) For hessian
( plain
weave ) cloth

2349

b) For double warp plain

weave cloth

1.175

0.117 5

0.234 9

c) For single warp 2/l

twill cloth

1566

0.156 6

d) For double warp 2/l

twill cloth

0783

O-078 3

2.54

0254 0

ii) Shots/inch

6. METHOD

BY DISSECTION

B -

by

OF FABRIC

6.1 Apparatus
6.1.1

Clanz@ -

Use any of the following

a) Tyfle t A Clamp 50 mm apart,

b)

rrype B Clamp points

6.1.2

20 mm apart,

A clamp
and

with
with

1 ):

pins with their points

two parallel
two parallel

pins

with

their

pins

with

their

An outline of the clamp is shown in Fig. 1.

Forceps -

6.2 Warp

( see also Table

A clamp with two parallel

c) Type C Clamp - A clamp

points 10 mm apart.
NOTE

clamps

One pair of pointed

and Weft

Threads

forceps

for removing

per Centimetre

threads.

or Decimetre

6.2.1 Take one of the pieces constituting

the sample and cut out from
it a specimen of the width and length as specified in Table 1. The length
of the specimen shall be along the weft threads for determining
number
of warp threads per centimetre
or decimetre and along the warp threads
for determining
number of weft threads per centimetre
or decimetre.
Lay the specimen on table with the length running from left to right.
7

i,
)--

____._

IS :1963-1981
Take an appropriate
type of clamp (see Table 1 ) and position it centrally over the specimen.
Then pass the pins on the clamp through
the
specimen.
Remove using forceps, the threads remaining
outside of cloth
pins, leaving only the gauge length of specimen between them, and such
threads
through
which the pins pass.
From this gauge length of the
specimen remove the threads one by one and count the number of threads
within the gauge length.

TABLE

1 NUMBER
OF THREADS,
LENGTH
OF SPECIMEN,
WIDTH
OF SPECIMEN,
GAUGE
LENGTH
AND TYPE OF CLAMP
( Claurcs 6.1 and 6.2.1 )

All dimensions

No.os THREADS
( SCd4.5 )

in millimetres.

LENQTH OB
SPECIMEN

WIDTH OF
SPECIMEN

GAUQE
LENQTH

TYPE OF
CLAMP

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

cm ( 200 per dm ) or

80

15

50

More than 20 but less than

or equal to 100 per cm
(or more than 200 but
less than or equal to
1 000 per dm )

50

15

20

More than 100 per cm ( or

more than 1 000 per dm )

40

15

10

(1)
ZOl~s;

6.2.2 Following
the procedure
prescribed
in 6.2.1, determine
the
number
of warp and weft threads
per centimetre
or decimetre
as
required,
in at least four more places equally distributed
along the width
and length respectively
of the piece.
Average all the observed values
and note the value so obtained
as the number
of warp and weft threads
per centimetre
or decimetre
in the pieces as the case may be.
NOTE - In case of weft threads, it is preferable
size of the sample permits.

6.2.3

Calculate

the number

of warp
8

to have at least 10 readings,

and weft

threads

if the

per centimetre

IS I 1963
or decimetre

by the following

1981

formula:

( or 100 )*

X 10

n =+

where
n = the number
N = observed

of threads

number

per cm ( or dm )*;

of threads

in the gauge length

L; and

L = gauge

length, that is, the distance

expressed
in mm,
between the pins on the clamp; 50 or 20 or 10 mm, as the
case may be.

6.3 Determine
in a similar manner ( see 6.2 ) warp threads
and weft
threads per centimetre
or decimetre as required of the remaining
pieces
in the sample and find the mean of the values for warp
threads per
centimetre
or decimetre
and the mean of the values for weft threads per
centimetre
or decimetre
respectively
( see also Note under 5.3 ).

7. REPORT
7.1 The report

shall include

a) Description
b) Method

the following

of the material

information:

tested;

used;

c) Atmospheric
1) Standard

conditions:
atmosphere,

or

2) Prevailing
atmosphere
perature ); and

( give

relative

humidity

and

tem-

d) Results:
1) Number

of warp threads

2) Number

of weft threads

per cm or dm, and

per cm or dm.

NOTIC
The value should be rounded off to first decimal
when rhe results are reported for threads per centimctre.

place in the case

IS:1963

- 1981

1 DIA

ENLARGED
OF
L I Gauge length

50 mm ( Type A Clamp

OR
20 mm ( Type B Clamp )
OR
10 mm ( Type C Clamp )

All dimensions
Fra.

in millimetres.

10

CLAMP

VIEW
PIN

IS : 1963 - 1981

APPENDIX
( Clause 0.5 )
RECOMMENDED
SL

2)

(2)
Length

Width

FOR TEXTILES

SI UNITS

CHARACTERISTIO

No.
(1)
1)

SI UNITS

APPLIOATION

Abbreviation

Unit

(3)
Millimetrc
Millimetre,
centimetre
Men-e

(4)
mm
mm, cm

Millimetre
Centimctre
Millimetre,
centimetre
Centimetrc, metre

mm
cm
mm, cm

cm, m

(5)
Fibres
Samples,
test specimens
( as appropriate )
Yarns
ropes,
cordages,
fab;ics
Narrow fabrics
Other fabrics
Samples,
test
specimens
(as appropriate )
Carpets, druggets, DURRIES
( as appropriate )
Delicate

fabrics

3)

Thickness

Micrometre
( micron )
Millimetre

mm

Other fabrics,

4)

Linear density

Tex
Millitex
Decitex
Kilotex

tex
mtex
dtex
ktex

Yarns
Fibres
Filaments,
filament
yarns
Slivers,
ropes,
cordage

Micrometre
( micron)
Millimetre

pm

Fibres

mm

Yarns,

Millimetre

mm

Ropes, cordages

5)
6)

Diameter

Circumference

7) Threads in fabric:

b) Widthwise

6)

Warp threads
loom

9)

Stzb:;

. .

in

b) Widthwise

( as

ends/cm
endsldm

Number per
centimetre
Number per
dccimctrc

picks/cm

Number per
centimetre

ends/cm

picks/dm
Reeda
Knitted
fabrica
appropriate )

in knitted

a) Lengthwise

felts

ropes, cordagcs

Woven
fabrics
appropriate
)
Number per
ccntimctre
Number per
dccimetre

a) Lengthwise

carpets,

Courses per
centimetre
Courses per
dccimctre

courses/cm

Wales
per
ccntimctre

wales/cm

Wales
per
decimctre

wales/dm

coursea/dm

11

( as

IS : 1963 1981
l

SL
No.

CHARAOTERXSTIO

APPLIOATION

Abbreviation
(4)

(3)

(2)

(1)

SI UNITS
f-----hUnit

(5)

lo)

Stitch length

Millimetre

mm

Knitted fabrics,
fabrics

11)

Mass per unit area

Grams per square

metre

g/m*

Fabrics

Grams per metrc

g/m

Fabrics

12)

Mass per unit length

13)

Twist

Turns per centimetre

Turns per metre

14)

Test or gauge length

Millimetre,
metre

15)

Breaking load

16)

Breaking

17)

Tenacity

length

18)

Twist factor
multiplier

( as

appro-

mm, cm

FibrcsI
yarns and
specimens
( as
priate )

fabric
appro-

Millinewton

mN

Newton

Fibres,
delicate
yarns
(individual or skeins )
Strong yarns ( individual
or
skeins )
ropes,
cordages, fabiics

km

Yarns

mN/tex

Fibres, yarns ( individual

or skeins )

ccnti-

Kilomctrc
Millinewton
tex

or twist

per

Turns per centimetre X square

root of tex
Turns per metre
x square
root
of tex

turns/cm 1 Yarns ropes

z priaie )
turns/m J

turns/cm 1
X&i

turns/m
x &e-x
N/cm*

1
)Yarns

( as appropriate

Fabrics

Bursting.strcngth

Newton
square
metre

20)

Tear strength

Millincwton,
newton

21)

Pile height

Millimetre

mm

Carpets

22)

Pile density

Mass of pile yarn

in grams per
metre
square
per millimetre
pile height

g/m/mm
pile
height

Pile carpets

23)

Elastic

Millincwton
tex
per
deformation

mN/tcx/
unit
deformation

Fibres,

P =r
ccnti-

mN, N

per
unit

12

I
J

19)

modulus

made-up

Fabrics

( as appropriate

yarns,

strands