BEAUTY TIPS FROM ANCIENT INDIA

Sitaram Dixit

INTRODUCTION

The very mention of an Indian woman conjures ones imagination of a lady, wearing highly coloured
ankle length dress called Sari. One can hardly overlook the coloured dot that adorn the centre of the
forehead, black kajal around the eyes, colourful henna designs on the palm or flowers gracing their
long hair. Almost all women in India and of Indian origin wear this coloured fascinating eye-catcher
dot on the forehead. Usually mistaken, as a sign of matrimony the little dot is a beauty spot passed
down the generations and worn by women making them extraordinarily attractive and ravishing.

BEAUTY SPOT

Hindu women married or unmarried wears, Tilak, Pottu, Kumkum, or Bindi on the forehead. It is
applied daily after a bath and on special occasions before or after a ritualistic worship or visit to a
temple. When worn after worship it is termed as Tilak. At other times it normally called, Pottu,
Kumkum, or Bindi. Varying in colour and form, wearing a Tilak was not very prevalent in the
Vedic period. It gained popularity and prominence during the Puranic period. The use of Kumkum
or bindi is believed to have originated in Southern India. Wearing a Tilak invokes a feeling of sanctity
in the wearer and onto others. It is usually made up of sweet smelling sandalwood paste Chandana,
red and yellow, Kumkum, made out of turmeric powder, and Bhasma or grey or black ash. It is
applied in different shapes namely or or simple dot, etc.

Human body emanates energy in the form of electromagnetic waves. The forehead and the subtle spot
between the eyebrows are said to be the seat of memory and thinking. The point is called as the Anjna
Chakra in the language of the Yoga. Application of Tilak is said to cool the forehead, protecting
the body from energy loss. The Tilak or Kumkum, apart from fulfilling the religious necessity of the
devout also serves the purpose of decoration, beauty, and good health.

The Tilak is usually applied with the prayer, May I remember the Lord at all times, his power
pervade all my actions and activities and may I always be righteous in my deeds. Even when we
temporarily forget this prayerful attitude, the mark on anothers forehead reminds us of our solemn
resolve. The mark apart from being a beauty spot is also a blessing of the lord and a protection against
the forces of evil and wrongful tendencies present in us. Nowadays plastic reusable Stick Bindis
being more convenient to use is popular and largely serves the purpose of decoration.

CLEANING AGENTS

Soaps in ancient India were made at home by gently heating a mixture of sweet almonds, bitter
almonds, Ghee, almond oil, aromatic oils, etc. Sanskrit texts, Sushruta Samhita, and Charaka Samhita,
also mention the preparation of lime and caustic soda from aqueous extracts of ashes. Marathi saint,
Sant Tukaram immortalised soap in his devotional hymns, where in he sings, What will soap do if the
character is not clean proving that soap and its cleaning properties were well known to the masses in
early times. Natural clays both neutral and alkaline, Borax, Trona (Sodium Sesquicarbonate),
potassium carbonate, all acquired from nature were also used as cleaning agents.

SKIN CARE

Cosmetics for women in early times were as important as it is today. The difference is that cosmetics
were prepared at home using ancient beauty recipes that have been passed down through generations
and centuries unlike present times when American, French and local synthetic cosmetics are popular.
Non-availability of modern cosmetics and the inherent dream to keep themselves, beautiful and
attractive gave rise to very effective household remedies. These simple recipes took adequate care of
their dreams of everlasting youth and beauty thus making a virtue of a necessity.

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Vedas the earliest records of ancient India, notably Rig-Veda & Atharva -Veda, Smrutis and Samhitas,
refers to various codes of routine behaviour laying great emphasis on personal cleanliness. It strongly
advocates that daily routine functions should not begin without the daily bath in clean flowing water.
Water not only cleans out the dirt but also refreshes the body to carry out ones daily tasks efficiently.
Applying soft earth, saponaceous fragrant soft plant materials on the body before a water bath to
remove dirt and other impurities from human skin is clearly spelt out as a means to maintain personal
cleanliness and hygiene. The Atharva -Veda, Sushruta Samhita, and Charaka Samhita detail the
Ayurvedic School of medicine, a comprehensive system of living and health care. It details the use of
herbs some of them credited and endowed with supernatural powers to heal and revitalise human body
systems for healthy living.

The most common ingredients that were used and are used till present times include, Astringent plants
like Amla (Emblica officinalis), aromatic plant Nagarmotha (Cyperus Pertenuis), oils of almonds,
sesame, lather producing local fruits like Ritha, Shikkakai, etc. An aqueous extract of Harda
(Terminalia Chebula), Bheda (Terminalia belerica), and Amla (Emblica Officianalis), was used as an
antiseptic preparation to keep one free from bacterial ailments like pimples, acne, and keep skin
complexion soft and smooth.

ORAL CARE

Modern woman today uses lipstick to colour their lips. In ancient times, orthodox women chewed Pan
a combination of crushed areca nut; betel leaves spices, and lime. Pan is not only a popular refreshing
delicacy, but it also promotes salivation, improve digestion and at the same time imparting a reddish
brown hue to the lips, a colour very popular as a fashion statement.

Today talcum powder that comprises largely of mined stuff is used, but in olden times, talcum powder
was prepared using natural vegetable agents. Ancient Indian face powder was made up of rice powder;
violet roots or freshly ground sandalwood. Rouge was obtained from the combination of various juices,
namely plums, cactus fruit, red beet, ripe strawberries, or green walnut husk. All these beauty
preparations were neither costly nor unattainable luxury by the common masses.

COSMETICS FOR EYES

Eyes are the reflection of our soul. It is said that eyes should necessarily outshine other parts of the face
by their sparkle and size. There are reams of poetry that describe the beauty of the eye and link it to the
beauty of the individual. Thus, eyes and the region around it are considered areas that are more
important for one to address to enhance self-beauty. For a long time right from the epic ages, women
have used Black kajal or Kohl eye paste around the eyes to make the eyes appear bewitchingly large
in popular fashions styles like almond, mango, lotus, fish, etc. Temple sculpture and painting show
nymphs of the skies and trees (Gandharvas and Yakshis) use Kajal paste, encircling the eyes to create
an illusion of a larger size eyes.

Kajal Paste like all ancient Indian make up was made at home. A small earthen lamp is filled with
Ghee (milk fat), and a cotton wick placed in the lamp is allowed to burn over night. The black soot
created by the flame is collected in a bronze or copper pan arranged at an angle above the flame. The
soot obtained is mixed with some Ghee, and a drop of castor oil and Kajal paste is ready for use. The
Kajal paste has a very long shelf life extending to years, but it is exhausted rather very quickly as
Indian women both old and young use it regularly. Little babies are applied with Kajal paste, around
their eyes, as it is also believed to promote the growth of long silky eyelashes and protect them against
evil eye. A very popular fashion among women is to achieve almond shaped eyes by extending a line
of Kajal paste beyond the corner of the eye in addition to the paste applied around it.

COSMETICS FOR HANDS AND FINGERS

The red juice of Mehendi or Henna plant is used by women in place of nail polish to colour the
finger and toenails. The leaves of Henna are ground into a very fine paste and the juice that oozes out
is used to colour the palms of the hands and the side soles of the feet. It is the traditional custom to

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colour the feet and palms of brides and young girls during celebrations. Dancers usually colour their
palms and feet in tune with the latest fashion trends before a stage performance.

The painting on women palm is usually done by female relatives or by a local artist. The design
selected as per the prevailing fashion is gracefully done surprisingly without using any designing
implement, brushes, etc. but by bare hands. The wearer will then have to wait with sufficient patience,
keeping still until the Henna juice in the paste dries up and stains the skin. The clarity and the redness
of the design traced on the palms and soles remain intact for weeks even after daily washing and
cleaning of the hands during normal routine activities. Henna leaves boiled in mustard oil when
regularly massaged on the scalp promote growth of abundant hair and helps in treatment of baldness.
Henna in addition is also beneficial for prickly heat treatment.

HAIR CARE

Curry leaves when consumed internally prevents premature greying of hair and when boiled in coconut
oil and used regularly, stimulate hair growth and help retain the natural pigmentation of hair keeping it
black for a longer duration. Methi (Fenugreek) seeds, soaked in water overnight is ground into a fine
paste and applied on the scalp. The paste is left for about 15 to 20 minutes and then washed with Ritha
or Soap nut to remove dandruff. Fresh Methi leaves paste when applied regularly before bath promotes
hair growth and keeps hair black and silky.

Long hairs up to the knees were once every Indian women pride. Extreme care was devoted to a
womans tresses so that it grows long, silky dark and magnificent. Long hair even in todays times is
considered a very important beauty asset. Young women and little kids strive hard to achieve it by
taking utmost care of their hairs. Young girls have their scalp rubbed with pure expressed coconut oil,
and have their hairs plaited. Pure coconut oil used regularly is said to promote growth of healthy hair
and keeping it dark and silky.

DEPILATORIES

Hair on arms, faces, and legs were as unpopular eyesore in earlier times as it is now. It is believed that
to prevent subsequent growth of hair, Indian midwives rub newborn babies with placenta a few hours
after birth. Haldi or Turmeric paste when applied on the body suppresses the unwelcome growth of
hair. Young adolescent girls have their skins painted with hot cow dung ash and the little hairs plucked
by hand. This process repeated every month was believed to make the skin smooth and free of
unwanted hair. A thick paste of oatmeal, almonds oil and newly ground sandalwood is messaged into
the facial skin and allowed to dry. On drying, the paste falls off. Friction is generated on the skin when
the paste dries. This friction is said to not only discourage growth of hairs but also remove blackheads
and supply essential nutrients to the skin. India is a dry country and natural compress made out of
grated orange, lemon, or cucumber peels are used to keep facial skin moist and prevent drying.

BODY MASSAGE

Oil massages of the face and whole body have been used right from the Vedic times to keep skin fresh
and supple especially during the dry winter months. This fact is borne by numerous sculptures on
temple walls where celestial nymphs are depicted massaging their breast muscles with oil to keep them
smooth ands without wrinkles. Rejuvenating oil baths of southern India that is world famous today
were used to retain the youthful freshness and keep skin without blemish. Coconut Oil, sesame oil, or
mustard oil is first scrubbed in the whole body and lightly rubbed with a rough sponge to remove dead
skin. Hot compress is then applied to open the pores. The body is massaged well with warm oil and
allowed to dry for about 15 minutes. It is then scrubbed with sandalwood powder to remove oil
residues. The scrubbing is carried out in circular motions that are supposed to remove all dry and dead
skin making it smooth. A cold shower at the end of the process closes the pores thereby keeping the
skin fresh and youthful.

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CLEAR WRINKLE FREE SKIN

An unfailing remedy to keep facial wrinkle at bay is the application of a mixture of half a cup of milk
cream, a drop of benzoin and some rice flour, every day before retiring to bed and washing it off in the
morning. A mixture of Alum, rosewater and almond milk is also supposed to prevent wrinkles that one
develops naturally with advancing age.

Smooth and clear complexion is the most desired beauty asset necessary for any women whether in
India or anywhere in the world. Ananga Ranga is the well-known book of love written more than
1500 years old. It recommends young girls to rub their face with a paste of sesame, milk, white mustard
and ground caraway for one week before their marriage so that their skin on the wedding day is pure
and spotless as white snow of the Himalayas. Kamasutra is a treatise on love written by Vatsyayana.
According to Vatsyayana to enhance ones beauty, the individual should inculcate healthy living habits.
The author recommends regular meals, frequent exercises or gymnastics, intake of ample amount of
liquids, occasional use of laxatives and sufficient sleep in a room with open windows to let in fresh air
as necessary for a beauty cure.

FOR THAT EXCLUSIVE YOUNG AND HEALTHY LOOKS

The wise men of ancient India advise on the beneficial effects of abstinence from meat and animal
food. It also advises on the detrimental effects of alcohol and nicotine on skin. Every system needs a
break from its daily rigours. Regular overhauling is necessary for any system to work at full capacity.
Rest and change of diet is thus necessary for the digestive system to keep it in shape. Fasting or
Upavaasa is one of the means to achieve this objective. Upa means near and vaasa means to stay.
Literally, Upavaasa means staying near the lord, meaning the attainment of close mental proximity
with the lord almighty. Ancient Indians believed that certain type of food make our minds dull and
agitated, which in turn affect external body beauty. In certain days, one should consume simple light
food or totally abstain from eating so that the mind becomes alert and pure.

The mind that is normally pre-occupied by the thought of food should entertain only noble thoughts of
the lord during fasting. Fasting should not be forced upon but self-imposed form of discipline and
adhered with joy. It is a common knowledge that more one indulges the senses the more they make
demands on us. Fasting helps us to cultivate control over the senses, subjugate desires, increase
willpower, and guide our mind to be at peace. The most wholesome of external living habits and the
best of cosmetics will fail to make one beautiful externally if one does not cultivate inner life culture.
Although fasting intermittently is good for health, it should not make one weak, irritable or create an
irresistible urge to indulge in larger amounts of food later. This can only happen when there is no noble
good and positive commitment behind fasting.

CONCLUSION

The Bhagavath Gita urges us to eat Yukta Saatvik Aahaar that is to eat sensibly neither too much
nor too less, simple, pure and healthy food, even when not fasting. The ancients advice women to
cultivate a gentle cheerful, well-balanced disposition, avoid emotional outbursts, and unnecessary
passion that cause wrinkles. Needless pursuit of power, money, pleasure and fame leads to stress, poor
health, loss of magic attraction and serene beauty. A gay disposition, harmonious inner life full of
contentment is the only true secret for, ever-lasting beauty and happiness.

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