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8x8x8 Arduino LED Cube by fangdoc (/member/fangdoc/)

Download (/id/8x8x8-Arduino-LED-Cube/?download=pdf) h (/id/8x8x8-Arduino-LED-Cube/) 14 Steps .

Collection I Made it! Favorite Share

(/file/FH5DOPLIH0U2ES2/)

About This Instructable

8 38.357 views Posted:

Nov 15, 2015
402 favorites License:

fangdoc
(/member/fangdoc/)
 Follow 12

(/member/fangdoc/)
More by fangdoc:
(/file/FHCOP4GIH0U2ES1/)

This is a fairly simple project, but it is time consuming and well worth the end (/id/8x8x8-Arduino-
product!!!

LED-Cube/)

Step 1: Bending LEDs.. Tags: LED (/tag/type-id/keyword-LED/)

Solder (/tag/type-id/keyword-Solder/)

DIY (/tag/type-id/keyword-DIY/)

8x8x8 (/tag/type-id/keyword-8x8x8/)

Cube (/tag/type-id/keyword-Cube/)

Add instructable to:

; Group

Related

8x8x8 LED Cube Kit

Instructions (Kits on Ebay)
(/id/8x8x8-LED-Cube-Kit-
Instructions-Kits-on-Ebay/)
(/id/8x8x8- by KiteArmy
Making of the L3D Cube:
Idea to Product in 4 Months
(/id/Making-of-the-L3D-
Cube-Idea-to-Product-in-
(/id/Making- Four-Mon/)
Club Jameco 8x8x8 LED
(/file/FT0R079IGZENAG1/)
Cube Kit (/id/Club-Jameco-
8x8x8-LED-Cube-Kit/)
by KDLaun (/member/KDLaun/)
(/id/Club-
Make a jig, with two small nails jutting out @2mm from the hole which fits the 8x8x8 led cube (build)
LED nicely, but not too tight... I've found that 180 degrees from each other (/id/8x8x8-led-cube-build/)
works the best for me.. Whatever you decide, just have to make all 512 of the by fallinsquirrel
(/member/fallinsquirrel/)
LEDs EXACTLY the same to make a nice, neat matrix!!!!
(/id/8x8x8-
LED Cube 4x4x4 (/id/LED-
Cube-4x4x4/)
by chr (/member/chr/)

Step 2: Cut the excess o... (/id/LED-

 (/file/FBII8JHIGZENAIX/)

I've found the best Flush diagonal cutters have been from "Beadalon".... I've
tried MANY...

Step 3: Bend the CATHODE loop up...

(/file/F6VH64HIGZENAIZ/)

(/file/FOF1F3DIGZENAR3/)
 It is advantageous to get used to having the anode on the same side when
bending... It is frustrating when anode and cathode are reversed on a LED and
it doesn't work after soldering all together... The second picture is of all 512,
plus a few more...

Step 4: Drill a jig and assemble the rows...

(/file/F4Y8LREIGZENAR1/)

(/file/FPY7X3RIGZENAR2/)

Measure the distance between anode holes on the board. This is the distance
between centers of each LED. This is Important if you want a nice matrix. The
holes on my board are 7/8 of an inch, or 23mm... The next important thing is to
place a smaller nail above each hole at the 2mm mark you bent. each LED is
then placed in its hole, with the unbent (horizontal) loop going over the nail. This
will line up the vertical loops to receive the row wire. I use 20 gauge Tinned,
 will line up the vertical loops to receive the row wire. I use 20 gauge Tinned,
straightened bus wire. To get this, buy a roll and look up how to straighten it.
Or, you can buy it on eBay already cut and straightened. Only use 20 gauge.
Smaller makes the matrix flimsy!!!!
Once the wire is through all eight holes, solder the LEDs to it and cut off the
ends of the wire. This gives a neat appearance. You only have to make 64
Rows!!! Tedious, but worth it!!!
IMPORTANT - NO MORE THAN THREE SECONDS SHOULD BE USED TO
SOLDER LEDs!!!

Step 5: Cut a soldering platform and assemble each panel....

(/file/FYBLH8UIGZENAR6/)

(/file/F8PT9TJIGZENAT1/)

I used Formica coated shelving material from Home Depot... Because of the
thickness of each soldered joint, a blade width will not work. One and a quarter
 will.... Make the cuts about 7/8 of an inch between centers... Place each
soldered row in each cut. Line them up and the anode 20 gauge wire will go in
the holes perfectly. Make sure they line up good before soldering. It will save a
lot of time trying to straighten them to perfect 90's... I do the two center wire
first, then work outwards. There are only 64 solder joints in this step...

Step 6: Test your panel...

(/file/F5U2HBGIGZENAT3/)

(/file/F60LP4RIGZENAT5/)

The finished panel... You must test each LED before going on to the next panel.
If one doesn't work, cut it out of the matrix, take one of your extra spares, Cut
the loops open enough to place on the wire, and solder it in. You already have
the soldering points from the LED you cut. Just heat up the soldered joint and
leave the loop there. It will blend in with the new LED if enough solder is used.
Remember the three second rule, so as not to burn up the LED!!!!
 Oh- What I use for a tester: I use a two C cell battery holder from Radio Shack,
with a 1k resistor soldered to the black wire. This has a small bend on the end
to be able to hook it to the horizontal Cathode wire. I just do this for each level
and run the tinned red wire from left to right over the anode wires. Use the
resistor. The full 3 volts will work, but if using crappy LED's, one may burn out -
It's happened to me many times!!!

Step 7: Solder your panels to your board...

(/file/FDIWWYYIGZENAT6/)

(/file/FETV9HOIGZENAW3/) (/file/FTPCX2XIGZENAW4/)

This is fun... After getting all eight anode wires in their proper holes, I use small
pieces of wood about 3/4 inch thick.. It doesn't matter the thickness, as long as
all are the same!!! The second important thing is to get the panel perpendicular
to the board. People say use a square. This is bull - I use a small paper pad on
its side... Works just as well, and is small enough to place inside!!!! Solder the
two outside wires to get the panel stable and then fill in the rest. Do this for
both far outside panels... You'll see why...

Step 8: Add the rest of the panels...

 (/file/FRL9UB7IGZENAZ1/)

(/file/FX4W5Y0IGZENAZ2/) (/file/FPWSY0BIGZENB3S/)

I add them two at a time. to stabilize and space them properly...When you flip
the board upside down on a perfectly flat surface, this is the orientation of the
added panels. Gives you a PERFECTLY EVEN top!!! Its a little shaky... Use the
paper pad underneath to stabilize it some!! The second picture is all the panels
soldered in place. The third is looking down the panels after. Gorgeous!!!

Step 9: The supports and level links...

 (/file/FDPNO5QIGZENIVY/)

(/file/FV2QBW6IGZENIW2/) (/file/FNLEIVVIGZENIW4/) (/file/FV0GF8FIGZENIW8/)

This is a hard step, but very worthwhile.. First. you must solder a wire to the
center top of the cube. This is the one where you have to adjust all panels to be
even. Next, add the two top outside wires. This will give the cube serious
stability. The second picture is of the next reinforcement: It is placed at level 4,
on the opposite side of the P0 - P7 hookups. Each panel is soldered to each
reinforcement. This one is a good practice before doing the level binding on the
other side. Each panel level cathode must be hooked together. As you can see,
anodes only go vertical and cathodes are only horizontal. Any slight difference
in height of the mating wires can be weighted down before soldering. I use a
small hemostat to do this. I'm a Dentist - I can't help it!!!!
Anyway, on the side of P0 - P7, as you can see in pic 3, all levels must be
complete for the cube to function properly. The fourth pic shows the inside
orientation of the stringers.

Step 10: Adding the level controlling wires...

(/file/FXB56PLIGZENLQX/)

These are easy. You should be VERY comfortable soldering by this point!!!
Connect insulated wires for each level to the stringers you soldered as such: P0
is the top level, all the way down to the bottom level: P7. Also - You must install
four 12- 15mm standoffs before the finished product will stand properly... Brass
or nylon - it doesn't matter.
At this point, your cube is now physically together...
 Now onto the final and most crucial step: Installing the Arduino Uno, and
uploading the program...

Step 11: Add your Uno...

(/file/F66GME0IGZGVZDJ/)

Then you are ready to upload the code, using Arduino Software...

Step 12: Program your Uno...

Download the software from
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
(https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software).
Download both .ino files and open one of them up with the software. I included
two files, because the fireworks section will work without the text function
enabled, and vise versa... I have not been able to figure this out!!! Any
suggestions would be welcome to overcome this small problem!!! Enjoy your
project. It's tedious, but well worth it in the end!!!

Arduino_Fireworks.ino (/files/orig/F6C/596P/IH0U29JI/F6C596PIH0U29JI.ino)

Arduino_Text.ino (/files/orig/FVP/EDO2/IH0U2BK1/FVPEDO2IH0U2BK1.ino)

Step 13: The Schematic...

Modified from the cube made by Hackable Designs. Good group of people.
 8x8x8 LED Cube.pdf (/files/orig/F7P/KCBM/IH3R30LO/F7PKCBMIH3R30LO.pdf)

Step 14:
Here is the Excel file to order the board parts...

LEDCube-8x8x8-JP.xls (/files/orig/FST/AANX/IHNTFURC/FSTAANXIHNTFURC.xls)

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive. w I Made it!
Add Images Post Comment

X fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) (author) 12 hours ago Reply

8
Hey guys!!! The boards are now up for sale on eBay. Do a
search for:
8x8x8 LED Cube Board, Arduino Uno Compatible
I just put one together and it works flawlessly!!!
Enjoy.

Flag

X fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) (author) 2 days ago Reply

8
Hi guys!!! A small quantity of the boards are due in today. If
they are good, I'll put them up on eBay. Gotta build one first
to test it out... ;-)

Flag

| Build_it_Bob (/member/Build_it_Bob) 4 days ago Reply

The neatest cube I have ever seen. Your jigs and alignment
tips help remove the human error in placement that is seen
in most other cubes; excellent work !
Build_it_Bob

Flag

Fezder (/member/Fezder) 7 days ago Reply

I'm currently building by this plan, easiest what i've seen!

Thanks for sharing!

Flag
 webstockxalapa (/member/webstockxalapa) 8 days ago Reply

Do you have de PCB desing? or where I can download o

buy?

Flag

reaper44 (/member/reaper44) 10 days ago Reply

Very cool. Can u pls make an audio visualizer wid dis led
matrix n post it. please

Flag

X fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) (author) . reaper44 (/member/reaper44) Reply

8
Hey. I don't design electronics, but you may find a board 10 days ago
which you may be able to adapt from Supertech-it at
http://www.theledcube.com/ (http://www.theledcube.com/).
My boards should be done soon. I will post them on eBay
when I get and test them...

Flag

X yonatan24 (/member/yonatan24) 12 days ago Reply

|
8 Hi, I've added your project to the "A Collection of WAAAY
To Many 8X8X8 RGB LED Cubes!" Collection
This is the link If you are interested:
http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Collection-of-WA...
(http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Collection-of-WAAAY-
To-Many-8X8X8-RGB-LED-Cubes/)

Flag

wooduino (/member/wooduino) 15 days ago Reply

What board did you use? Is this one available on eBay or is

it your own design, and if so, will you post the schematic?

Flag

X fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) (author) . wooduino (/member/wooduino) Reply

8
I made my own board, based on the one made by 15 days ago
www.hackabledesigns.com
(http://www.hackabledesigns.com). It was not copyrighted, so
I modified it to suite my needs!!! I added the schematic to the
page. The boards will be available in about two weeks. I had to
have them remade, with a couple of tweaks. I have to warn
you - the board uses almost all SMT components. Have to use
soldering paste and hot air to make it...The components will
cost about $35 from Digikey Electronics. I will have the .XLS
file on my eBay page when I can finally list it!!

Flag

wooduino (/member/wooduino) . fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) Reply

Thanks... Your cube looks great. Well aligned and nice and 15 days ago
straight. Because I've had to replace several LEDs - both prior
to and after cube assembly, I have found that the "bent-pin-to-
 adjacent LED" interconnection technique a little simpler. Still, I
found your use of stiff wire rows and columns to be very clean
and tidy.
I do have some design questions (and I really am interested in
your answers):
1. why did you decide not to buffer the common clock signals
from the Arduino? I have always found that a fan-out of 8 is on
the high side and the signal noise immunity suffers.
2. why choose the serial shift rather than parallel latch
method? Given that you are dedicating an Arduino UNO /
MEGA to this board, there are plenty of spare pins available to
make a parallel load possible.

Flag

X fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) (author) . wooduino (/member/wooduino) Reply

8
Hey Wooduino, I'd like to Give you answers, but I did not 15 days ago
design the circuit - I redesigned the board to meet my desires,
following the schematic. You may be able to get the answers
at www.hackabledesigns.com
(http://www.hackabledesigns.com)... They designed it!!!! My
specialty is hookups, wiring and repairing anything
mechanical... I've just gotten into assembling circuit boards
and such. I was a field wireman in the USMC back in the 80s, I
collect and repair clocks as a hobby, I build and ride
motorcycles also and am a practicing Dentist in my spare
time...

Flag

wooduino (/member/wooduino) . fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) Reply

Thanks for your answers and the brief bio and I'll do as you 14 days ago
suggest and take my questions to the designers.
Nevertheless, you are to be commended on creating very clear
and comprehensive instructions for the most challenging part
of the design of this type of cube. Congratulations!

Flag

X fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) (author) . wooduino (/member/wooduino) Reply

8
Thanks for your support!!! 14 days ago

Flag

X fangdoc (/member/fangdoc) (author) 16 days ago Reply

8
Thanks, guys. I'll be doing one about soldering the board
next, then listing the board on eBay soon, with a bill of
materials from DigiKey. I'm also going to be putting an
addition to my web page: www.clockworksdental.com
(http://www.clockworksdental.com/)... One of my
inspirations is
SuperTech-IT
(http://www.instructables.com/member/SuperTech-IT/) - He
is really cool at it!!!!

Flag

X dmwatkins (/member/dmwatkins) 17 days ago Reply

 X dmwatkins (/member/dmwatkins) 17 days ago Reply
|
8 Great method and tips! Love the jigs!

Flag

X DIY Hacks and How Tos (/member/DIY Hacks and How Tos) 17 days ago Reply
|
8 Awesome LED cube!

Flag

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