Albha Oberoi-Graduation Project
Albha Oberoi-Graduation Project
Albha Oberoi-Graduation Project
2015
Textile Design
National Institute Of Fashion Technology
THE JURY EVALUATION SHEET
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Remarks
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SYNOPSIS
The bachelor of design course at NIFT, in addition to being a great learning experience, made me aware
of many of my skills, which I still had to acquire in order to become a professional textile designer.
The graduation project, a part of the course curriculum at NIFT, was a unique opportunity of applying all
skills learnt in the college to practical work. My stint at ARVIND LMTD. (as a part of my graduation
project) gave me a chance to explore the various facets involved in professional textile designing.
ARVIND LMTD a leading name in the world shirting industry had a creative approach, which was quite
distinct, an amalgamation of creativity and quality. Apart from being a great learning opportunity, this
project helped me enhance my interest in the weaving and shirting fabrics, it has helped me develop great
passion for colour, weaves, fabric feel and everything in the gamut of textile designing. Seniors at
Arvinds made sure that I felt comfortable in the new environment, while ensuring at the same time that i
put in the highest quality of work.
The graduation project at ARVIND LIMITED gave me full freedom to follow the design process: research,
experiment and create my own designs under themes that were given to me. The guidance of my mentors was
always available.
My project started with learning about the infrastructure, markets, clients, production process, and
production range.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I take this opportunity to thank and appreciate the effort of all those who helped me in completing my
graduation project and making me understand the industry well. I extend my gratitude towards textile de-
sign department, NIFT New Delhi for helping me emerge as a textile designer.
I acknowledge the efforts of my faculty mentor, Ms. Rachna Khatri whose invaluable guidance and support
from initial to final stage enabled the completion of this project.
The project would not have been complete without the guidance and support of my industry mentor, Mr.Abhijeet
Mahadane for letting me work under his guidance.
I am glad to thank the design team at Arvind Lmtd, which includes Mrs Neha Srivastava and Mr.Arvind Rathore
for their never-ending support and guidance throughout the 18 weeks of my graduation project.
I would like to make a special mention, for Mr. Vicksit Mehta, the design head, Arvind Lmtd, for all his
valuable suggestions to help me grow as a professional.
I am also thankful to all the staff workers at Arvind Lmtd, design studio for being utterly cooperative
and understanding all the while.
Most importantly I would like to thank my parents and my friends for their immense support and
encouragement throughout the journey.
A peep into his wardrobe
CONTENT
INTRODUCTION 01
MOOD BOARD 02
SPONSORS PROFILE 05
PROJECT BREIF 11
THE PROCESS 12
METHODOLOGY 15
MARKET RESEARCH 16
COLLECTIONS 18
CONCLUSION 142
Dressy formal shirt, or a casual indigo or maybe a light
cotton check!! The little blue book is a peep into a man’s
wardrobe. The latest trends, The latest innovation in
shirting fabrics is all that this book is about.
01
SPONSORS PROFILE
Arvind Mills Limited, is an authentic fabric supplier which is now positioned globally.
It was initiated by the three brothers Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai in 1931, when India fought
against the use of fine and superfine fabrics made in Britain.
The Lalbhai’s reasoned the demand for the need of made in Indian fine fabrics and started Arvind Limited
with a share of Rs.2,525,000, with 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms. It was
one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to
full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing.
The company exanded its business and outgrew all its competitors within a few years and today it is one
of the largest companies, with a share of $500 million, it soon ventured into a a global market supply.
Understanding the demands and catering to the needs in time was the key for the success of this comapny.
Denims with 120 Million Meters as their Annual Capacity, Shirtings with 35 Million Meters Annual Capacity,
Khaki with 21 Million Meters Annual Capacity, Knits 10,000 Tonnes Annual Capacity and Voiles 33 Million
Meters Annual Capacity.
05
ABOUT ARVIND LIMITED
The Arvind Mills was opened by the Lalbhai broth- a one-stop shop service, of offering garment pack-
ers in 1931. Having the best of technology and ages, to its international and domestic customers.
craftmanship, Arvind has become a true Indian mul-
tinational, having chosen to invest strategically, With the Indian economy poised for rapid growth,
where demand has been high and quality required has Arvind brands with its International licenses of
been superlative. Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own
domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excali-
Arvind focusses in delivering different quality op- bur and Ruf & Tuf, is setting it’s vision on becom-
tions for their clients and also in designing new ing the largest apparel brands company in India.
ideas and concepts catering to the latest needs.
The Forevision and Technology has brought Arvind to Backed by the latest technology and state-of-the-art
be one of the top three producers of Denim in the equipment, every stage of the produc-tion process,
world, and on its way to becoming the Global Textile right from spinning of the yarn to final processing
Conglomerate. and testing of the fabric, ensures that stringent
quality standards are met and products remain eco-
Arvind has already marked a strong statement in friendly. Further, Arvind has a unique plant for
Shirting’s, Knits and Khakhi fabrics apart from be- manufacturing very light weight indigo dyed fabrics
ing all set to change the ready to wear Garments in yarn dyed and solids for top weights.
world. Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy
to verticalize its current operations by setting Arvind is the most well known fabric suppliers in
up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering the world and hence they get in orders from most of
06
the multinational fashion brands for their shirt- also established.
ings, Bottom weights and printed fabric. Every year
Arvind, under the leadership of Mr. Viksit Mehta Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With
launches two collections every year, those are in the muliti-fiber agreement getting phased out and
hand with the latest trends and forcasts, and thus the disbanding of quotas, international textile
these collections help the buyers to identify the trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the domestic
different kinds of fabrics, the recent advancements market too, the rationalizing of the cenvat chain
in quality and also the different kinds of finishes and the growth of the organized retail industry was
that are added in the products. likely to make textiles and apparel see anexplosive
growth.
The Quality decides the price of the fabric. Ar-
vind offers multiple varieties of fabrics, closely
studiying the needs and style of the respective
brands. Arvind leads the fashion market in terms of
innovation and creativity.
07
PRODUCT RANGE
08
Shirtings
Annual capacity of 35 million meters. It is one of the most well-known products of Arvind Group, selling
at a premium in the internation-al market. It has an astonishing annual capacity of 34 million meters.
Prominent products within this category include fabrics with non-iron properties, mechanical finishes,
printed fabrics apart from the cotton and cotton blends in Linen, Lycra, Polyester, Modal, Silk etc. with
varieties in yarn dyeds and solids.
Further, Arvind has a unique plant for manufacturing very light weight indigo dyed fabrics in yarn dyed
and solids for top weights. Arvind Shirting has a liquid ammonia based fabric processing plant and a
state-of-the-art print house – a first for India and one of the few in Asia. Backed by the latest tech-
nology and state-of-the-art equipment, every stage of the produc-tion process, right from spinning of the
yarn to final processing and testing of the fabric, ensures that stringent quality standards are met and
products remain eco-friendly.
Indigo
Annual capacity of 120 million meters. There are many delightful features of Arvind denim: An annual ca-
pacity of 110 million meters; the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in the world; and an export
network of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent products in this category include ring denim, indigo voiles,
organic denim, bistretch denim and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from regular light, medium
and heavy weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo, sulphur, yarn-dyeds, in 100% cotton and
various blends. The facilities of Arvind Denim are accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS,
Organic exchange standard, FLO for fair trade and Lycra Assured. As one of the largest denim producers in
the world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East and the Asia Pacific.
Khakhis
Annual capacity of 21 million meters. The many virtues of Arvind Khaki merit your undivided attention:
An annual capacity of 21 million meters which facilitates the launch of two new collections annually; and
the distinction of being the only khakis division in South East Asia to do so. The division provides the
finest fabrics in the variants of 100% Cotton, Cotton Rich Polyester Blend, Cotton Lycra, Cotton Tencel,
Cotton Linen, etc to name a few. The division has an integrated plant with weaving and processing facili-
ties. The most prominent products in this range include Chinos, Canvas, Ribstop, HBT, Tussore, Cavalry,
Structures and Dobbies.
09
PROJECT BRIEF
To design and develop a range of textiles for Shirting business division of Arvind Limited .The main target
of the project was to exercise maximum design development in the field of Shirting. Being a student of a
renowed Design Insititute, my personal emphasis was on the ‘Design Methodolgy’, which should be properly
followed during the project.Though the project brief was to design and develop shirting fabric mainly for
the Summer 2015, my endeavour was to understand the different market segment and develop fabrics according
to the customer’s requirements for the domestic, retail and international brand.
The project brief also involved the design and development of Indigo The final outcome of the project had
to be practical from the production point of view.
Project Scope in the particular field was restricted yet the constraints were satiable for my desire and
creative edge.The scope was restricted in terms of different kind of development,new fabric design and
development, on the basis of latest trends keeping in mind various technical, and production parameters.
This would involve a thorough study on existing designs and also on the basis of thorough market research,
a study of the consumer and the factor affecting his buying behavior and look at color trend and forecast
in the market.
Constrains
- To complete project within a fixed time frame of 18 weeks
- To exercise design and it’s development within the fixed price points
- To carry out the project within the infrastructure of the sponser
- To work out on the final design concept according to the capacity of the looms
- To make designs according to the requirement of the clients
- To finalize the designs and insert weaves keeping in mind the quality parameter
11
Customer Inquiry
Weaving Processing
Marketing Finishing
Customer Approval
12
THE PROCESS
Project Scope
At least 2 final collections are to be developed in the form of actual prototypes at the end of the
project. The exact quantum of the collection has to vary according to the area of work.
Concept Development
This stage would involve making sketches, in the form of initial concepts, based on the project brief.
This is basically to concretize ideas and directions in each of the decided categories. This process would
consider colors and structures thought about for each category and also the various parameters of
productions. From this initial process of conceptualization, certain concepts would be selected to be
worked on further, to take the form of final concepts.
Sampling/Product Development
This stage is for the development of the paper concepts into the final woven samples or products
14
METHODOLOGY
My graduation project basically involved creating designs for the shirting fabric, majorly catering to
the menswear and women’s wear category in the domestic as well as international market. This was initiated
through the project research, which included feasibility study of the company, a thorough consumer and
market research on various domestic and international shirting’s brands and study of trends and apparel
forercast. A lump sum of information was gathered through primary and secondary sources.
Based on the survey, an analysis was done to know the consumer psychographics in the apparel market par-
ticularly for shirts. This survey provided me with a fair amount of information regarding the expectations
and requirement of the consumer.
After the first step an intensive study was done on the forecasts to get sound knowledge on the color
usage and trends, interpretation of future trends for shirting fabrics, apparel trends in the global and
domestic market and International trends in shirting fabrics. Being totally new in this field, the research
work really gave me very sound idea about the trends in the garment industry, concentrating on shirts.
Based on the through research work and the brief got from the sponsoring organization (on the basis of
project proposal prepared), Colour and theme stories were developed. And simultaneously,initial concepts
were also being worked upon the basis of the theme and colour palette. The initial concepts were frozen
into final concepts by keeping in mind the possible end usage. All the technical specifications were to
be kept in mind, as approved concepts had to go for mass production.
All my collections were in Checks and Stripes, the initial and final concepts were made in the software
known as Penelope.
15
MARKET REASEARCH
Fashion is going through an exicting and extremely empowered and motivated employees.
dynamic phase of experimentation, explorationand From my survey and research. It became quite evident
aspiration for exclusivity. Fashion is veing re- that all of these apparel houses are proactively en-
vered to the staus of art as it used to be 100 hancing their business through initiatives serving
years back. Yet, shirtings remain a slow transform- the following objectives:
ing segment, due to a certainapprehension to deviate Addressing the relevant lifestyles or grooming as-
from conventional corporate wear. Nonetheless, it pirations of each and every customer segment.Ex-
becomes indispensable to observe,analyze and scru- panding, retaining and consolidating into markets
tinize market trends and demands to deliver superior with high potential.
values to the customer and the organization. While
over the past decade, fashion in India has grown To build globally dominant brands and to ensure
fantastically in size and character, the ensuing international level of excellence in fashion World
competition has thrown up achievers and aspirants class product development along with a World-class
for top billing in Fashion retail, marketing and shopping & retailing experience.
branding. The motive of all these garment houses is
to continuously enhance leadership position in the To attain world class connectivity and to consoli-
readymade apparel market by marketing brands that date wed based & IT enabled integrated operations.
continuously provides the best value to consumers
in terms of fashion, design, quality, availability I conducted my market research through a combination
and sustaining world class standards of quality, of primary and secondary methods which included:
customer service, design and brand equity, through
16
Primary method: Gant, Arrow, in the high end segment, and John Mill-
Visit to Shirtings stores, analysis of online shop- er, fbb, in the middle range segment, and Wrangler,
ping. Levis Benetton in the casual segment.
-There is a certain skepticism to experiment unlike
Secondary method: T-shirts segment.
Research studies, magazines, catalogues. -Dobbies and pastels are being largely preferred.
The major client brands of Arvind Mills and their -Styles of collars, plackets are being played with.
competitors were studied. -Accent fabrics are being induced to break the mo-
notony.
Through the aforementioned means, apparel brands, -Brand consciousness is prevalent.
with shirtings and casual bottoms in focus
are witnessing a multitude of changes. The following International Market
points were concluded in my market research Bright colours are being embraced, especially in US.
conducted through primary and secondary means: Contrasting designs are indeed in demand.
-Contrasting designs are indeed in demand. The major focus is on quality.
-The major focus is on quality. International markets are raving for indigenous tex-
-Shirts are becoming extremely casual and metro- tiles for shirtings.
sexual.
Domestic Market
-Leading brands are: Allen Solly, Louis Philippe,
17
COLLECTION #01 COLLECTION #02 COLLECTION #03
Nomadic Habit SAUVE DANDY PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS
pg 21 pg 66 pg 104
COLLECTION #01
The Cotton Casuals
Nomadic Habit
story of a travellar
Nomadic Habit
story of a travellar
25
ABOUT ARROW SPORT
28
CLIENT BRIEF
29
BY THE BAY
My World of Color
BY THE BAY
When I travel to the sea side I don’t bring back the sand or the shells,
I bring back the memories. the memories of colourful hues . the clear
blue sky merging with the beautiful tangerine of the sunset .
I bring back the reflections , the happy faces of the sailors in their
white and navy uniform , the smiles of the kids on the beach, running
around in their colorful swimsuits.
Keywords :
design inspiration :
anchor,
extra weft,
extra warp,
navigation symbols,
lighter counts,
balanced check,
symetric ,
compass,
neps,
Color directive:
shades of red,blue and white
Initial Concepts
Keywords
Look
Fitness
Sportsman Spirit
Care free
Relaxed
Individualistic
Contentment
Marvel
Design Directives
Ginghams
Experiment with Ginghams
Balance
Symmetry
Dobby
Spot dobby
Pin stripes
Stitch dobby
Extra weft
Micro Checks
Twills
Play of color
Extra warp
Grindle and Melange yarn can be used
Classic checks to be encorporated
36
Final Concepts
Count : 20s + 2/40s X 20s + 2/40s
Construction : 68 X 50
Weave : Dobby
Construction : 64 X 60
Weave : Plain
Construction : 122 X 70
Weave : Plain
Construction : 82 X 80
Weave : Twill
Construction : 100 X 76
Construction : 110 X 90
Weave : Plain
Weave : Dobby
Construction : 92 X 72
Weave : Dobby
Finish : AERO
Count : 50COM X 2/24AMS GRN + 50COM
Construction : 112 X 80
Weave : Plain
Construction : 123 X 88
Keywords
Look
Fitness
Sportsman Spirit
Care free
Relaxed
Individualistic
Contentment
Marvel
Design Directives
Ginghams
Experiment with Ginghams
Balance
Symmetry
Dobby
Spot dobby
Pin stripes
Stitch dobby
Extra weft
Micro Checks
Twills
Play of color
Extra warp
Grindle and Melange yarn can be used
Classic checks to be encorporated
54
Final Concepts
Count : 40 X 40
Construction : 122 X 72
Weave : Plain
Construction : 122 X 72
Weave : Plain
Construction : 128 X 96
Weave : Plain
Finish : LA+MR+CAL
Count : 40 X 40
Construction : 122 X 72
Weave : Plain
Construction : 124 X 90
Finish : EVERFRESH
Count : 60 X 60
Weave : Plain
Construction : 86 X 64
Weave : Plain
Construction : 122 X 80
Weave : Plain
Weave : Plain
71
ABOUT PARK AVENUE
74
DESIGN BRIEF
Objective
To develop a range of rich fabric with fine yarn count and
construction depending upon the
count of the fabric. The fabric will be designed in plain
as well as dobbies and will be treated by special types
of finishes.
75
Initial Concepts
Technical specifications :
Count :
Construction :
Weave:
Finish
Blend:
78
Final Concepts
Count : 2/121 X 2/121
Weave : Dobby
Construction : 164 X 32
Weave : Dobby
Finish : LA + ETI
Count : 2/101 X 2/101
Weave : Dobby
Weave : Dobby
Weave : Dobby
Construction : 124 X 90
Weave : Dobby
Finish : LA + LTC
Count : 50 COMP X 2/81 GIZA
Weave : Dobby
Weave : Dobby
Finish : Supersilk
Count : 2/141 GIZA X 2/141 GIZA
Weave : Dobby
Weave : Dobby
Finish : LA
Count : 2/81 X 50 GIZA
Weave : Dobby
Weave : Dobby
Weave : Dobby
Finish : LA + MR + CAL
Count : 2/115 X 2/121
Weave : Dobby
Construction : 155 X 98
Weave : Plain
Weave : Dobby
Finish : LA + MR + CAL
Count : 60 X 60
Weave : Plain
Construction : 110 X 84
Weave : Plain
Weave : Dobby
109
ABOUT H&M
112
DESIGN BRIEF
Objective
To develop casual checks for Commertex, using plain weave
with indigo and reactive yarns of count 30s Ind+40s neX
40s com; . the contruction of the fabric is 96X76 with
NSF, LA and Peach finish. Width of the fabric: 59 inches
with a reed of 88/2.
113
Initial Concepts
Technical specifications :
116
Final Concepts
Count : 30 IND X 30 COM
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Dobby
Construction : 128 X 70
Weave : Plain
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
Construction : 119 X 68
Weave : Dobby
Construction : 132 X 68
Construction : 120 X 68
Construction : 110 X 80
Weave : Dobby
Construction : 136 X 80
Construction : 118 X 78
Construction : 143 X 76
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
Construction : 128 X 90
Construction : 128 X 70
Weave : Plain
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
Construction : 106 X 76
Weave : Plain
142