Varnish

Varnish is a transparent, hard, protective finish or film that is primarily used in wood finishing but
also for other materials. Varnish is traditionally a combination of a drying oil, a resin, and a thinner or
solvent. Varnish finishes are usually glossy but may be designed to produce satin or semi-gloss
sheens by the addition of "flatting" agents. Varnish has little or no color, is transparent, and has no
added pigment, as opposed to paints or wood stains, which contain pigment and generally range
from opaque to translucent. Varnishes are also applied over wood stains as a final step to achieve a
film for gloss and protection. Some products are marketed as a combined stain and varnish.

After being applied, the film-forming substances in varnishes either harden directly, as soon as the
solvent has fully evaporated, or harden after evaporation of the solvent through curing processes,
primarily chemical reaction between oils and oxygen from the air (autoxidation) and chemical
reactions between components of the varnish. Resin varnishes "dry" by evaporation of the solvent
and harden almost immediately upon drying. Acrylic and waterborne varnishes "dry" upon
evaporation of the water but will experience an extended curing period. Oil, polyurethane, and epoxy
varnishes remain liquid even after evaporation of the solvent but quickly begin to cure, undergoing
successive stages from liquid or syrupy, to tacky or sticky, to dry gummy, to "dry to the touch", to
hard. Environmental factors such as heat and humidity play a very large role in the drying and curing
times of varnishes. In classic varnish the cure rate depends on the type of oil used and, to some
extent, on the ratio of oil to resin. The drying and curing time of all varnishes may be sped up by
exposure to an energy source such as sunlight, ultraviolet light, or heat.

Manufacture of oil Varnish

Without Resin : Oil varnish free from resin, is produced from "bodied"^ fatty oil, chiefly linseed oil.
Driers and volatile thinners may or may not be added, according to the puruose for which the varnish
is used. Varnishes of this type, such as lithographic varnishes, patentleather varnishes, etc., have a
more or less limited and special use.

With Resin : Oil varnish containing resin is frequestly produced by adding heated fatty oil to resin
which has been previously heated in a kettle until it is completely melted. Driers may be added
separately or they may be incorporated with the oil. This mixture is heated until, in the judgment of
the varnish maker, it is ready to be cooled and thinned. Heating must be continued' until no
separation of the ingredients occurs on cooling. After thinning with a volatile thinner, the varnish is
filtered and stored. Some of the best grades are stored for a long time before marketing, in which
case filtration may be omitted. Sometimes different varnishes are mixed and the blend marketed
under a certain name. By varying mixing and heating methods, it is possible to prepare varnishes
from the same proportions and amounts of raw materials, even though they differ greatly in
properties and qualities.

Manufacture of Spirit Varnishes

Dammar Varnish is prepared by treating dammar resin with turpentine or light mineral oil, with or
without the application of heat.

The usual proportions are five to six rounds of resin to one gallon of solvent. "Cold process" dammar
varnish is generally "believed to be better. As the resin is only partially dissolved, commercial
dammar varnishes always show more or less turbidity.

Shellac Varnish , a spirit varnish, is discussed in TIBM - 4g, "Shellac".

lacquers are usually clear or nearly clear solutions. Some lacquers are made by dissolving
nitrocellulose, sometimes with the addition of resin, in such solvents as amyl acetate, wood alcohol,
acetone, or mixtures of these and other liquids. They are frequently colored by the addition of
soluble coloring matter.

Asphaltum Varnish and other similar products are, in some cases, oil varnishes containing in -place
of part or all of the resin, a -prepared asphalt or -pitch, and in other cases spirit varnishes made by
dissolving coal-tar -pitch in coal-tar naphtha.

Insulating Varnishes : As all resins, bitumens, and oils have rather good insulating properties, an?/
varnish made of these materials, which dries with a reasonably impervious film, may be considered
as an insulating varnish.

Flatting Snirit Varnishes contain such materials as shellac, glycerin, and galipot

1 with various solvents.

Required Properties

Properties required in a varnish are "flowing and drying", "appearance" , and " durability" , which
naturally depend upon how it is to be used.

Exterior Exposures ; Although the modern, quick-drying, four-hour type spar varnish is used
extensively for exterior exposures, other varnishes for outside use are of the "long-oil"^ type, which
generally dry more slowly than those for indoor exposures. These varnishes must be elastic and
waterproof. Therefore, a better and more expensive varnish is usually required.
Interior Exposures : For general inside use, an elastic varnish film is not so essential. A good grade
interior varnish should not turn permanently white with water, and the very best grades do not turn
white even while wet. For some inside work a very hard film, although it dusts, is more suitable than a
softer, elastic film. In the manufacture of varnish, hardness, usually obtained by the addition of resins, is
produced at the expense of elasticity. However, due to the advent of modern synthetic resins, hard-
drying and elastic varnishes may now be obtained.

Floor Garnish should dry hard in at least three days; although with the use of the new, synthetic resins,
floor varnishes dry hard overnight.

Color: When it is desired to retain the light color of certain woods, or of white or tinted color coats, a
light-colored varnish is e ssential

Practical Testing of Garnishes and Lacquers

Dammar and Shellac Varnishes : The practical testing of these varnishes is limited to color, consistency,
and smoothness of film.

Lac quers : Aside from special requirements, the parctical testing of lacquer is limited to color,
consistency, drying, and whether or not it dulls a nolished metal surface.

Black Varnishes may be tested by applying them to metal panels, and noting the time of drying and
nature of the film.

High Temperature Varnishes: If the varnished surface is to withstand high temperatures, a baking test
should be made to ascertain whether the film retains its gloss, elasticity, and adhesive properties at the
necessary temperature.

Insulating Varnishes should be tested principally to ascertain their adhesive properties, and resistance to
oil and water.

Simple Methods for Testing Varnishes

First note whether or not the sample has the desired color, clearness, and flowing properties. Then, any
or all of, the following simple tests may be made.

Panel Test : Apply a coat of the varnish to a metal or wood panel, which has been painted a dull black.
Drop-black in oil, thinned with

-b

turpentine and drier, gives a good undercoat for this uurpose. Note the time required for the film to dry
hard; that is, when the finger pressed firmly against the surface leaves no impression.

Let the coat dry for two days or more, and rub with steel wool or powdered pumice and water. Note
whether or not the sample has good rubbing properties ; that is, whether or not a smooth, doll surface,
suitable for the application of a second coat, is obtained. Also note whether or not the rubbed surface
"sweats"; that is, whether glossy patches form on the panel after twenty-four hours.

Amply a second coat of the varnish and let the film dry for three days after it has become hard. The
relative luster of different samples may be noted at this point.

Let a stream of cold water run over the varnished surface over nimht, and in the morning note whether
the film is unaffected, dulled, or whitened. Then let a stream of boiling water flow over the varnish for
fifteen minutes and note the effect on the film.

Finally, any other desired tests, such as the application of soar and water, or household ammonia, may
be made..

Glass Plate Test : Flew some of the sample on a clean glass plate, allow it to drain and dry in a vertical
uosition, and note the time required for the film to dry "free from tackiness" (the point at which the film
no longer feels sticky when touched lightly with the finger)

and to dry hard.

After five days, non the point of a knife blade through the film at the top of the plate, and note whether
it is elastic; that is, whether it comes off as a ribbon from a clean cut, or whether it "dusts" (breaks into
small pieces).

Service Test : The most satisfactory and reliable information regarding varnish is naturally obtained by
actual use, but such information can be collected only a^ter several months. While service tests give
useful information regarding certain brands, which are of uniform quality, it is necessary to assume or to
actually prove that such brands remain uniform in composition and properties. In service tests of
outside varnishes, it has generally been found that a difference in climatic conditions causes a greater
variation in the length of service of any brand, of good quality varnish, than is obtained with different
brands under the sane climatic conditions.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varnish

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