73575-Volvo Penta 8.1gi GXi Marine Engine
73575-Volvo Penta 8.1gi GXi Marine Engine
73575-Volvo Penta 8.1gi GXi Marine Engine
Engine 2(0)
8.1Gi-B/C/D/E/F
8.1GXi-A/B/C/D/E
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S
23282
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23546
23364
BLY
SEM
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VER UN
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23365
DR2058
DR4957
XDP-B
PROD.
NO.
TYPE NO
SER.
23281
throughout the text. Since models are subject to change at any time,
some photos may not depict actual product.
Good Service Practice Service required for stern drives is generally one of three kinds:
• Normal care and maintenance - which includes putting a new
stern drive into operation, storing engines, lubrication, and care
under special operating conditions such as salt water and cold
weather.
• Operating malfunctions - due to improper engine or drive
mounting, propeller condition or size, boat condition, or the mal-
function of some part of the engine. This includes engine ser-
vicing procedures to keep the engine in prime operating
condition.
• Complete disassembly and overhaul - such as major service
or rebuilding a unit.
It is important to determine before disassembly just what the trouble is
and how to correct it quickly, with minimum expense to the owner.
When repairing an assembly, the most reliable way to ensure a good
job is to do a complete overhaul on that assembly, rather than just to
replace the bad part. Wear not readily apparent on other parts could
cause malfunction soon after the repair job. Repair kits and seal kits
contain all the parts needed to ensure a complete repair, to eliminate
guesswork, and to save time.
Repair time can also be minimized by the use of special tools. Volvo
Penta special tools are designed to perform service procedures unique
to the product that cannot be completed using tools from other
sources. They also speed repair work to help achieve service flat rate
times. In some cases, the use of substitute tools can damage the part.
Preparation for Service Proper preparation is extremely helpful for efficient service work. A
clean work area at the start of each job will minimize tools and parts
becoming misplaced. Clean an engine that is excessively dirty before
work starts. Cleaning will occasionally uncover trouble sources. Obtain
tools, instruments and parts needed for the job before work is started.
Interrupting a job to locate special tools or repair kits is a needless
delay.
Service Policy It is a Volvo Penta policy to provide dealers with service knowledge so
they can give professional service demanded by today’s consumer.
The Volvo Penta Training Centers, frequent mailing of Service Bulle-
tins, Letters and Promotions, Special Tools and this Service Manual
represent the latest effort to assist dealers in giving consumers the
best and most prompt service possible. If a service question does not
appear to be answered in this manual, you are invited to write to the
Volvo Penta Service Department for additional help. Always be sure to
give complete information, including engine model number and serial
number.
Replacement Parts When replacement parts are required, always use genuine
Volvo Penta parts, or parts with equivalent characteristics,
including type, strength, and material. Failure to do so
may result in product malfunction and possible injury to
the operator and/or passengers.
Parts Catalogs Parts Catalogs contain exploded views showing the correct assembly
of all parts, as well as a complete listing of the parts for replacement.
These catalogs are helpful as a reference during disassembly and
reassembly, and are available from Volvo Penta Parts.
Special Service Tools Volvo Penta has specially designed tools to simplify some of the disas-
sembly and assembly operations. These tools are illustrated in this
Service Manual, in many cases in actual use. All special tools can be
order from Volvo Penta Parts. Individual purchasers of Service Manu-
als must order Special Tools through an authorized dealer.
Product References, Illustrations & Volvo Penta reserves the right to make changes at anytime, without
Specifications notice, in specifications and models and also to discontinue models.
The right is also reserved to change any specifications or parts at any
time without incurring any obligation to equip same on models manu-
factured prior to date of such change. All information, illustrations and
specifications contained in this manual are based on the latest product
information available at the time of printing. The right is reserved to
make changes at anytime without notice.
All photographs and illustrations used in this manual may not depict
actual models or equipment, but are intended as representative views
for reference only. The continuing accuracy of this manual cannot be
guaranteed.
The purpose of an engine tune-up is to restore power and perfor-
mance that has been lost through wear, corrosion or deterioration of
one or more parts or components. In the normal operation of an
engine, these changes can take place gradually at a number of points,
so that it is seldom advisable to attempt an improvement in perfor-
mance by correction of one or two items only. Time will be saved and
more lasting results will be obtained by following a definite and thor-
ough procedure of analysis and correction of all items affecting power
and performance.
Economical, trouble-free operation can better be ensured if a complete
tune-up is performed once every year, preferably in the spring. Com-
ponents that affect power and performance can be divided into three
groups:
• Components affecting compression
• Components affecting ignition
• Components affecting fuel system
Engine Compression Testing During all work done around the engine, while the engine is running or
being cranked, use extreme care to avoid getting fingers or clothing
caught in any belts, pulleys, or other moving parts.
2. Visually inspect stern drive unit for leaks, missing parts or other
obvious defects. Replace deteriorated parts.
3. Compression check: Proper compression is essential for good
engine performance. An engine with low or uneven compression
cannot be properly tuned.
• Operate engine to normal operating temperature.
Engine must not be started and run without water for cool-
ing.
• Remove any foreign matter from around spark plugs by blowing
out with compressed air.
• Remove and inspect all spark plugs. Install thread-type com-
pression gauge in spark plug hole.
• Disable Ignition and Fuel System:
— Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor located on the
rear of the engine block.
— Disable fuel injectors by removing the electrical rely (F3) in
the fuse box.
— With throttle plates wide open, crank engine through at least
four compression strokes.
Test Conclusion The indicated compression pressures are considered normal if the
lowest reading cylinder is within 75% of the highest.
Example:
If the highest pressure reading was 140 PSI, 75% of 140 is 105.
Therefore, any cylinder reading less than 105 PSI indicates an improp-
erly seated valve, worn valve guides, piston, cylinder, or worn or bro-
ken piston rings. Any cylinder reading 105 PSI or greater is within
specifications, and compression is considered normal.
If one or more cylinders read low, squirt approximately one tablespoon
of engine oil on top of the pistons in the low reading cylinders. Repeat
compression pressure check on the cylinders.
1. If compression improves considerably, the piston rings are at fault.
2. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating
poorly, or valve guides are worn.
3. If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and
squirting oil on the pistons does not increase the compression, the
cause may be a cylinder head gasket leak between the cylinders.
This problem could allow engine oil and/or coolant to enter the cyl-
inders. It is recommended the following quick reference chart be
used when checking cylinder compression pressures. The chart
has been calculated so that the lowest reading number is 75% of
the highest reading.
Max. PSI Min. PSI Max. PSI Min. PSI Max. PSI Min. PSI Max. PSI Min. PSI
Test Procedures 1. Install a vacuum gauge to a good intake manifold source (usually
at the PCV valve port), following the gauge manufacturer’s instruc-
tions. Start and warm up the engine.
2. Observe the vacuum gauge while operating the engine over a
range of engine speeds.
Test Results 1. A steady vacuum reading between 14 and 19in. Hg. (47-64 kPa) at
idle indicates an engine in good mechanical condition.
2. A vacuum reading below 14 in. Hg. (47 kPa) at idle, indicates an
engine that is not developing enough vacuum. Further testing for
base mechanical problems is needed.
3. Possible causes of low intake manifold vacuum are late ignition
timing, low compression, poor engine sealing, leaks at vacuum
lines and connections or bad MAP sensor.
4. If the gauge fluctuates at idle, possible causes are sticking or leak-
ing valves, or an ignition miss.
5. If the gauge fluctuates at idle but smooths out as engine RPM
increases, check for bad valves or camshaft.
6. If the gauge fluctuates more with increases engine RPM, check for
weak or broken valve springs, bad valves, ignition miss, or a leak-
ing head gasket.
7. If the vacuum gauge fluctuates regularly with each engine cycle,
check for a bad valve.
8. If the vacuum reading drops steadily as engine RPM increases,
check the exhaust system between the engine and sterndrive for
restrictions.
9. See table and chart below and on the following page for more
information.
E Normal Acceleration Drops to 2 then rises to 25 when throttle is rapidly increased and
decreased.
F Worn Rings Drops to 0, then rises to 22 when throttle is rapidly increased and
decreased
G Sticking Valve(s) Normally steady, intermittently flicks downward approx. 4 in. Hg. (13
kPa) from highest level.
I Burned or Warped Valve Evenly spaced down-scale flicker approximately 5 in. Hg (17 kPa).
L Improper Idle Mixture Floats slowly between 13-17 in. Hg. (44-57 kPa)
M Restricted Exhaust Normal when first started. Drops to approx. 0 as RPM increases
N Head Gasket Leak Floats between 5-20 in. Hg. (17-68 kPa)
O Defective Ignition Component Slight float between 14-16 in. Hg. (47-54 kPa)
Caution!
Gasoline Containing Alcohol Many brands of gasoline being sold today contain alcohol. Two com-
monly used alcohol additives are Ethanol (ethyl alcohol) and Methanol
(methyl alcohol).
See the Owner’s Manual for you boat to determine if the boat’s fuel
system is compatible with alcohol blended fuels. if it is compatible,
your engine may be operated using gasoline blended with no more
than 10% Ethanol (ethyl alcohol) meeting the minimum octane specifi-
cations.
Caution!
Crankcase Oil
Initial factory fill is a high quality motor oil for API Service SH. During
the break-in period (20 hours), frequently check the oil level. Somewhat
higher oil consumption is normal until piston rings are seated. The oil
level should be maintained in the safe range between the Add and Full
marks on the dipstick. This range represents approximately 1 litre (1
quart). If it is necessary to add or change the motor oil, use a quality oil
with API service category SH.
At the end of the break-in period (20 hours), change the crankcase oil
and replace the oil filter. Refer to Lubrication and Inspection Chart
for recommended oil change intervals.
NOTE! The use of multi-viscosity oils, such as 10W-30 or 10W-40,
is not recommended.
Draining and Filling the Engine If using Volvo Penta Premium Synthetic Engine Oil, drain and refill
Crankcase crankcase every 200 hours of operation or once a year, whichever oc-
curs first.
If using oil other than Volvo Penta Premium Synthetic Engine Oil, drain
and refill crankcase every 100 hours of operation or once a year, which-
ever occurs first.
DANGER!
Check the motor oil level frequently with the dipstick. When oil is to be
changed, remove dipstick and withdraw oil from crankcase through
withdrawal/dipstick tube. The oil withdrawal tube is provided so oil does
not have to be drained into the bilge. Withdraw oil with a suction pump.
Fill the crankcase to the specified capacity with a quality motor oil la-
belled for service category SH. When changing motor oil, select from
the following chart the SAE viscosity that matches the temperature
range in which the boat will be operated. If it is necessary to add motor
oil, use motor oil of the same viscosity.
Caution!
Oil Filter Replace the oil filter whenever the motor oil is changed. This filter is a
self-contained, screw-on type. To remove, unscrew filter canister coun-
terclockwise and discard. When attaching a new filter, be sure the gas-
ket is lightly lubricated with motor oil. Hand tighten only, run engine
and check for leaks. Do not run engine without supplying cooling
water. See Parts Catalog for model and filter requirements.
reservoir as follows:
• Level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the
reservoir.
• If necessary, add Volvo Penta Power Trim/Tilt & Steering Fluid.
Replace the cap and tighten securely.
Off-Season Storage
There are nine steps that must be completed for Off-Season Storage
Preparation
When gasoline engines are removed from service for long periods (2
months or more), it is important that they are correctly stored or pro-
tected (internally). Today’s gasoline blends are not as stable as in the
past and consideration must be given if the fuel will not be used within
a short time or if the engine is being placed in storage. Failure to prop-
erly stabilize the fuel can damage fuel system components and is not
considered as warrantable.
Boat manufacturers should follow the gasoline storage mixture
section for testing prior to shipment.
Note! Volvo Penta has discontinued fuel stabilizer P/N 3855832,
a suitable replacement can be purchased locally at most
automotive supply stores.
Limited Use If the vessels fuel within the tank(s) will not be consumed within a 30-
day period from the time of filling, a gasoline fuel stabilizer must be
added as per the manufacturers instructions. This will help prevent the
fuel from breaking down and causing reduced engine performance or
damage from uncontrolled combustion.
Storage If the boat is being placed into storage, a gasoline fuel stabilizer must
be added to the tank(s) as per the manufacturers instructions. The
amount of stabilizer required is determined by the quantity of fuel and
the length of time it will be placed in storage. The maximum period that
fuel can be stabilized is six months due to limitations of the stabilizers
and fuels.
DANGER!
Caution!
Step 1. Prepare a storage mixture In addition to stabilization of the fuel, it is highly desirable to have the
valves and cylinders coated with a light film of oil previously accom-
plished through fogging. Today’s fuel injection manifolds are designed
with a complex air channel design that will not allow the traditional fog-
ging oils to be injected past the throttle plate while running. The oil will
get stuck in the plenum and never reach the cylinders. Together with
the stabilizer, two-cycle motor oil can be added to a fuel mixture for
stabilization purposes.
Electric Fuel Pumps and Fuel Cells Regardless of the ratio of fuel stabilizer to fuel we use, the maximum
recommended storage time for gasoline, according to STA-BIL, is six
months. During final assembly testing at our Lexington factory, each
engine is run on a fuel mix that is stabilized. Each engine is shut off
without running the fuel pumps dry and the fuel system is sealed to
prevent damage. With the delay in time between the product getting
installed in a boat, shipped to you, sold and finally delivered; the six-
month time frame can easily be exceeded.
Stuck Pumps If a fuel pump appears stuck and will not operate, you may try briefly
reversing the polarity to the pump to turn it in the opposite direction.
You should disconnect the electrical plug of one pump at a time on the
fuel cell to determine which pump might have a problem.
Noisy Fuel Pumps Electric pumps will often cavitate and become noisy if they are starving
for fuel. On carbureted engines or low-pressure fuel cell pumps, check
the fuel supply, quality of the fuel hose, anti-siphon valve, and filter
before replacing the fuel pump.
A noisy high-pressure pump on a fuel cell may indicate a low fuel level
in the reservoir. Check the fuel supply and low pressure pump opera-
tion to be sure the reservoir is receiving the correct volume of fuel. The
same information would apply to engines with the earlier vapor sepa-
rator tank design.
This information may help prevent the needless replacement of pumps
in many cases and reduce the repair time for the boat owner.
Step 2. Change Motor Oil and Oil • Engine should first be operated under load until oil is thoroughly
Filter: warmed up. If oil is allowed to warm up before draining, a more
complete draining will be accomplished. In addition, accumu-
Caution!
Step 3. Change Sterndrive Lubricant: Drain and refill with fresh Volvo Penta GL-5 Synthetic Gear Lubricant
or Mobilube 1 SHC Fully Synthetic SAE 75W-90 (meeting or exceed-
ing MIL-L-2105C or D, API GL-4 or 5) gear lubricant. Refer to Stern-
drive Service Manual.
Step 5. Drain Cooling System See “Draining Engine Block or Exhaust Manifold” on page 214.
When draining the cooling system, raise or lower the bow of the boat
to position the engine in a level horizontal plane. This will provide com-
plete drainage of the engine block and manifolds. If the bow is higher
or lower that the stern, some water may be trapped in the engine block
or manifolds.
Improper or incomplete draining may result in freeze damage to the
engine, manifolds, sterndrive, or other components. Freeze damage is
not covered under Volvo Penta’s Limited Warranty.
2. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Wipe the inside of the dis-
tributor cap dry with a clean cloth and spray with a dielectric corro-
sion inhibitor. Replace the rotor and cap.
3. Clean the battery terminals. With the ignition switch in the "OFF"
position, install the battery and attach the battery cables. Spray
terminals with a dielectric corrosion inhibitor.
4. Open the fuel shut-off valve (if so equipped) and check all fuel
line connections for leaks.
5. Check the flame arrestor and clean if necessary. Reinstall, make
sure all parts are in place and tighten nut securely.
6. Make a thorough check of the boat and engine for loose or missing
nuts and screws. Pump the bilge dry and air out the engine com-
partment.
Danger!
Caution!
Engine Break-in
All engines have been run for a short period of time as a final test at
the factory. You must follow the Engine Break-In procedure during the
first 20 hours of operation to ensure maximum performance and long-
est engine life.
NOTE!
To ensure proper lubrication during the break-in period,
do not remove factory break-in oil until after the 20-hour
break-in is completed.
First Two Hours For the first five to ten minutes of operation, operate engine at a fast
idle (above 1500 RPM). After engine has reached operating tempera-
ture, momentarily reduce engine speed, then increase engine speed,
to assist break-in of rings and bearings.
During the remaining first two hours of operation, accelerate to bring
boat onto plane quickly and bring throttle back to maintain a planing
attitude. During this period, vary the engine speed frequently by accel-
erating to approximately three-fourths throttle for two to three minutes,
then back to minimum planing speed. Maintain planing attitude to
avoid excessive engine load.
DO NOT RUN ENGINE AT A CONSTANT RPM FOR PROLONGED
PERIODS OF TIME DURING THE BREAK-IN PERIOD.
Next Eight Hours During next eight hours, continue to operate at approximately three-
fourths throttle or less (minimum planing speed). Occasionally reduce
throttle to idle speed for a cooling period. During this eight hours of
operation it is permissible to operate at full throttle for periods of less
than two minutes.
DO NOT RUN ENGINE AT A CONSTANT RPM FOR PROLONGED
PERIODS OF TIME DURING THE BREAK-IN PERIOD.
Final Ten Hours During the final ten hours of break-in, after warming engine to operat-
ing temperature, it is permissible to operate at full throttle for five to ten
minutes at a time. Momentarily reduce then increase engine speed to
assist break-in of rings and bearings. Occasionally reduce engine
speed to idle to provide cooling periods.
DO NOT RUN ENGINE AT A CONSTANT RPM FOR PROLONGED
PERIODS OF TIME DURING THE BREAK-IN PERIOD.
During break-in period, be particularly observant during initial running
of engine, as follows:
1. Check crankcase oil level frequently. Maintain oil level in safe
range, between “add” and “full” marks on dipstick.
NOTE! If you have a problem getting a good oil level reading on
dipstick, rotate dipstick 180° in tube.
2. Watch oil pressure gauge. If indicator fluctuates whenever boat
attitude (i.e. turning, climbing on plane, etc.) is changed, it may be
the oil pickup screen is not covered with oil. Check crankcase dip-
stick, and add oil to crankcase if required. DO NOT OVERFILL. If
oil level is correct and condition still exists, check for possible
gauge or oil pump malfunction.
NOTE! Oil pressure will rise as RPM increases, and fall as RPM
decreases. In addition, cold oil will generally show higher
oil pressure for any specific RPM than hot oil. Both of
these conditions reflect normal engine operation.
3. Watch engine temperature indicator to be sure there is proper
water circulation.
Caution
At end of break-in period (20 hours), remove motor oil and replace oil
filter. Fill crankcase with recommended 4-cycle motor oil.
Operation After Break-in After break-in, the engine can be operated at any RPM from idle to full
throttle. However, cruising at 3600 RPM or less saves fuel, reduces
noise, and prolongs engine life.
When starting a cold engine, always allow engine to warm up gradu-
ally. Never run engine at full throttle until engine is thoroughly warmed
up. Be sure to check oil level frequently during the first 50 hours of
operation, since oil consumption will be high until piston rings are
properly seated.
Submerged Engine
Remove engine from water as quickly as possible.
It is imperative that your dealer remove all water from the engine and
immediately lubricate all internal parts. All electrical devices must also
be dried and inspected for water damage. Delay in completing these
actions may allow extensive engine damage.
Frequently check engine compartment for gasoline fumes and exces-
sive water accumulation; water depth in bilge should be kept well
below flywheel housing.
20-Hour Check
1. Change engine oil and oil filter.
2. Check power trim/tilt reservoir for proper fluid level.
3. Change fuel filter/water separator.
4. Check flame arrestor for proper mounting.
5. Start engine and check complete fuel system for leaks.
6. Lubricate steering cable ram with Volvo Penta grease. Check
power steering pump reservoir for correct fluid level on models
equipped with power steering.
Caution!
Failure to properly lubricate the steering system could
lead to loss of steering control.
7. Check shift system for proper adjustment and operation.
8. Inspect exhaust system. Tighten all hose clamps, and check for
leaks.
9. Check tension on all drive belts.
10. Check all engine mount screws for tightness.
11. GL Models Only: Check and adjust carburetor for correct idle mix-
ture and RPM.
12. Check for any deficiencies, malfunctions, signs of abuse, etc. Cor-
rection of any problems at this time will prevent the worsening of a
minor problem and help ensure a trouble-free boating season.
13. Check oil level in Sterndrive and add as necessary with GL-5 Syn-
thetic Gear Lubricant or Mobilube 1 SHC Fully Synthetic SAE
Belt Tension
Fuel Injected Models Serpentine belts do not require tensioning. Replace the belt when the
tension indicator lines up with the single line on the housing.
These guides were written to help you trace the symptoms of the trou-
ble to the source, without having to read through and prove every pos-
sibility. Much of the information here will be familiar to well informed
mechanics.
Also, many factors will seem insignificant but when you think of it, usu-
ally the toughest problem to troubleshoot is caused by the smallest
error. The greatest aid to solving a service problem is information.
Start gathering information from the boat operator and write it on his
job card or work ticket. Find out pertinent facts, such as:
• When did this trouble start?
• How was the boat loaded?
• Did the trouble occur suddenly, or start gradually?
Analyze this information and try to match it to similar situations you
have experienced in the past. Keep in mind the fundamental rules:
• COMPRESSION - Mixture inducted into cylinder and com-
pressed.
• SPARK - Proper intensity at the proper time.
• FUEL - Proper mixture of air and fuel.
These are very old rules, but necessary for the engine to run. Use
these charts and the service information they refer to. Do not try to
remember tolerances, settings, measurements, etc., as they are writ-
ten in the service manual. Leave your mind free to analyze the prob-
lem.
Following is a list of the troubleshooting guides which may be found on
the pages indicated.
Title . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
Starter Circuit - Check: • Battery condition: weak, dead, sulfated, bad cells
• Battery cables for loose or corroded connections
• Shorted or open ignition switch
• Starter motor and solenoid for shorts, grounds or open circuits
• Starter assist solenoid/starter relay
• Circuit breakers
• Wiring from battery to ignition switch
• See Electrical/Ignition/Fuel Service Manual
Ignition Circuit - Check: • Primary circuit wiring from ignition switch to ignition coil/ignition
module
• Secondary circuit wiring from coil to spark plug
• Spark plugs for proper gap, fouling, burned electrodes, cracked
or dirty insulator
• See Electrical/Ignition/Fuel Service Manual
• Low battery voltage
Cylinder Compression - Check • Conduct test following procedure in this section, and compare
readings to Compression Limit Chart.
Has Engine Always Done This? 1. Carburetor choke operation and adjustment
Check: 2. Fuel lines for obstructions
3. For debris inside fuel tank
4. See Electrical/Ignition/Fuel System Service Manual
Was Engine Used For A Long Time? 1. For clean external canister and carburetor fuel filters
Check: 2. Empty carburetor float bowl due to evaporation
3. Water in fuel due to condensation
4. Fuel quality deterioration
5. See Electrical/Ignition/Fuel System Service Manual
Has Engine Always Done This? 1. Carburetor choke operation and adjustment
Check: 2. See Electrical/Ignition/Fuel System Service Manual
Engine Runs Rough If Fuel Injected, see EFI Diagnostic Workshop Manual
Valves - Hydraulic Lifters 1. Rapping only when starting (oil too heavy for prevailing weather,
varnish on lifter, oil needs to be changed)
2. Intermittent rapping (leakage at lifter check ball)
3. Idle noise (excessive leak down rate, faulty check ball seat)
4. Generally noisy (excessive oil in crankcase, stuck lifter plunger)
5. Loud noise at operating temperature (scored lifter plunger, fast
leak down rate, oil viscosity too light for prevailing weather or oper-
ating temperatures)
6. See appropriate Engine section
Engine Overheats - Check: 1. Actual engine temperature by verifying with an accurate thermom-
eter
2. Gauge operation and wiring circuit
3. Sending unit operation and wiring circuit
4. Supply pump, circulating pump and belt(s)
5. Water intake screens for blockage
6. Thermostat
7. Water supply hoses
8. Engine timing
9. Water leaks on pressure side of supply pump
10. Air leaks on suction side of supply pump
11. Engine compression
Loss Of, Or Out Of, Fuel - Check: 1. Fuel gauge operation and wiring
2. Fuel level in tank
3. Water or debris in fuel
4. Fuel pickup tube and screen blockage
5. Fuel tank vent blockage
6. Plugged external canister or carburetor fuel filters
7. Air leak on suction side of fuel system
8. Fuel leak on pressure side of fuel system
9. Inoperative, restricted or incorrectly sized anti-siphon valve
10. Boat fuel lines too small in diameter
11. Fuel pump pressure and suction
12. Carburetor cleanliness and operation
13. See Electrical/Ignition/Fuel System Service Manual
15. Remote control cables and linkage for proper attachment and
travel
Oil Pressure Warning System - 1. Oil gauge/warning horn operation and wiring
Check:
2. Engine temperature
3. Oil pressure gauge and warning horn sender operation and wiring
Engine/Boat Components - Check: 1. All electrical accessories including ignition circuit off
2. Disconnect main battery negative cable from battery
3. Connect ammeter or voltmeter in series between negative battery
cable and negative battery post
• Meter reading of “0” indicates no draw, test battery and charg-
ing system
• Meter movement no matter how slight indicates draw from bat-
tery
4. Disconnect main engine harness 10-Pin Connector
• Meter drops back to “0”, problem caused by boat system, con-
tinue to isolate each boat electrical accessory until problem is
found
• Meter does not drop back to “0”, problem caused by engine
electrical system, continue to isolate each engine electrical
accessory until problem is found
5. Repair or replace components as necessary
23134
Cylinder Block The engine block is made of cast iron and it has eight cylinders
arranged in a V shape with four cylinders in each bank. The engine
block is a one piece casting with the cylinders encircled by coolant
jackets.
Cylinder Head The cylinder heads are made of cast iron and have parent metal intake
valve guides and intake valve seats. The cast iron exhaust valve
guides and powdered metal valve seats are pressed into the exhaust
ports. A spark plug is located between the valves in the side of the cyl-
inder head. The water crossover pipe attaches to the front of each cyl-
inder head.
Camshaft A steel camshaft is supported by five bearings pressed into the engine
block. The camshaft sprocket is mounted to the front of the camshaft
and is driven by the crankshaft sprocket through a camshaft timing
chain.
Motion from the camshaft is transmitted to the valves by hydraulic
roller valve lifters, valve pushrods and ball-pivot type rocker arms. A
spiral gear machined into the camshaft near the rear journal drives a
shaft assembly which operates the oil pump driveshaft assembly.
Crankshaft The crankshaft is made of cast nodular iron. The crankshaft is sup-
ported by five crankshaft bearings. The crankshaft bearings are
retained by the crankshaft bearing caps. The crankshaft bearing caps
are machined with the engine block for proper alignment and clear-
ance. The crankshaft bearing caps are retained by two bolts and two
studs each. The number five crankshaft bearing at the rear of the
engine block is the end thrust bearing. The four connecting rod jour-
nals (two rods per journal) are spaced 90 degrees apart. The crank-
shaft position sensor reluctor ring is pressed onto the rear of the
crankshaft. The crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring is constructed
of powdered metal. The reluctor ring has an interference fit onto the
crankshaft and an internal keyway for correct positioning.
8.1Gi-B/C/D/E, 8.1GXi-A/B/C/D The pistons are cast aluminium alloy that use two compression rings
and one oil control ring assembly. The piston pins are a floating fit in
the pistons and the piston pins are retained by a press fit in the con-
necting rod assembly. The pistons are coated to create an interference
fit into the cylinder. The connecting rods are forged steel and have pre-
cision insert type crankpin bearings. The piston and connecting rod is
only serviced as an assembly.
8.1Gi-F, 8.1GXi-E The pistons are cast aluminium alloy that use two compression rings
and one oil control ring assembly. The piston pins are a full floating fit
in the pistons and the piston pins are retained by two snap rings in the
piston pin bore. The pistons are coated to create an interference fit into
the cylinder. The connecting rods are forged steel and have precision
insert type crankpin bearings.
Valve Train The valve train is ball pivot type. Motion is transmitted from the cam-
shaft through the hydraulic roller lifters and tubular pushrods to the
rocker arms. The rocker arm pivots on a ball to open the valve. The
hydraulic roller lifters keep all parts of the valve train in constant con-
tact. Each lifter acts as an automatic adjuster and maintains zero lash
in the valve train. This eliminates the need for periodic valve adjust-
ment. The rocker arm stud and nut retains the rocker arm and ball
seat. The rocker arm stud is threaded into the cylinder head.
Intake Manifold The intake manifold is a one-piece design. The intake manifold is
made of cast aluminium. The throttle body is attached to the front of
the intake manifold. The fuel rail assembly with eight separate fuel
injectors is retained to the intake manifold by four bolts. The fuel injec-
tors are seated in their individual manifold bores with O-ring seals to
provide sealing. A Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is
mounted on the top of the intake manifold and sealed by an O-ring
seal. The MAP sensor is held in place with a retainer bolt. The positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is internally cast into the intake
manifold. There is no PCV valve.
Lubrication Description
1
2
7
3
5 677880
If the oil cooler flow becomes blocked, either from a plugged oil cooler
or blocked or kinked oil cooler line, the oil cooler bypass valve (9) is
9
forced open, allowing oil to flow directly into the engine oil passages.
Oil does not flow into or out of the engine oil fileter or cooler.
677891
2 1
If both the oil filter and the oil cooler are plugged, the pressurized oil is
routed around the top of the oil filter adapter, through the oil filter
adapter bypass (2), through the oil cooler bypass valve (1) and directly
into the engine oil passages. Lubrication still occurs, but the oil is not
filtered or directed through the oil cooler.
Separating Parts NOTE! Many internal engine components will develop specific
wear patterns on their friction surfaces.
When disassembling the engine, internal components MUST be sepa-
rated, marked or organized in a way to ensure reinstallation to the orig-
inal location and position.
Separate, mark or organize the following components:
• Piston to the specific cylinder bore
• Piston rings to the piston
• Connecting rod to crankshaft journal
• Connecting rod to the bearing cap
• Crankshaft and connecting rod bearings
Cleanliness and Care • Throughout this section, it should be understood that proper
cleaning and protection of machined surfaces and friction areas
is part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard
shop practice even if not specifically stated.
• When any internal engine parts are serviced, care and cleanli-
ness is important.
• When components are removed for service, they should be
marked, organized or retained in a specific order for reassem-
bly.
• At the time of installation, components should be installed in the
same location and with the same mating surface as when
removed.
• An automobile engine is a combination of many machined,
honed, polished and lapped surfaces with tolerances that are
measured in millimeters or thousandths of an inch. These sur-
faces should be covered or protected to avoid component dam-
age.
• A liberal coating of clean engine oil should be applied to friction
areas during assembly.
• Proper lubrication will protect and lubricate friction surfaces dur-
ing initial operation.
Gasket Reuse and Applying Sealant • Do not reuse any gasket unless specified.
• Gaskets that can be reused will be identified in the service pro-
cedure.
• Do not apply sealant to any gasket or sealing surface unless
specified in the service procedure.
Cleaning Gasket Surfaces • Use care to avoid gouging or scraping the sealing surfaces.
• Use a plastic or wood scraper to remove all the sealant from the
components.Do not use abrasive pads, sand paper or power
tools to clean the gasket surfaces.
— These methods of cleaning can cause damage to the com-
ponent sealing surfaces.
— Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter can-
not remove from the engine oil.
Caution!
This fine grit is abrasive and can cause internal engine
damage.
Assembling Components • Assemble components using only the sealant (or equivalent)
that is specified in the service procedure.
• Sealing surfaces must be clean and free of debris or oil.
• Specific components such as crankshaft oil seals or valve stem
oil seals may require lubrication during assembly.
• Components requiring lubrication will be identified in the service
procedure.
• Apply only the amount of sealant specified in the service proce-
dure to a component.
• Do not allow the sealant to enter into any blind threaded holes,
as the sealant may prevent the fastener from clamping properly
or cause component damage when tightened.
• Tighten fasteners to the proper specifications. DO NOT over-
tighten the fasteners.
Aerobic Type Room Temperature Aerobic type Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant cures
Vulcanizing (RTV) Sealant when exposed to air. This type of sealant is used where 2 components
(such as the intake manifold and the engine block) are assembled
together.
Use the following information when using RTV sealant:
• Do not use RTV sealant in areas where extreme temperatures
are expected. These areas include:
— The exhaust manifold
— The head gasket
CAUTION!
Anaerobic Type Gasket Eliminator Anaerobic type gasket eliminator sealant cures in the absence of air.
Sealant This type of sealant is used where 2 rigid parts (such as castings) are
assembled together. When 2 rigid parts are disassembled and no
sealant or gasket is readily noticeable, then the 2 parts were probably
assembled using an anaerobic type gasket eliminator sealant.
Use the following information when using gasket eliminator sealant:
• Always follow all the safety recommendations and directions
that are on the gasket eliminator sealant container.
• Apply a continuous bead of gasket eliminator sealant to one
flange.
• The surfaces to be sealed must be clean and dry.
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
Anaerobic Type Threadlock Sealant Anaerobic type threadlock sealant cures in the absence of air. This
type of sealant is used for threadlocking and sealing of bolts, fittings,
nuts and studs. This type of sealant cures only when confined between
2 close fitting metal surfaces.
• Always follow all safety recommendations and directions that
are on the threadlock sealant container.
• The threaded surfaces to be sealed must be clean and dry.
• Apply the threadlock sealant as specified on the threadlock
sealant container.
CAUTION!
Anaerobic Type Pipe Sealant Anaerobic type pipe sealant cures in the absence of air and remains
pliable when cured. This type of sealant is used where 2 parts are
assembled together and require a leak proof joint.
Use the following information when using pipe sealant:
• Do not use pipe sealant in areas where extreme temperatures
are expected. These areas include:
— The exhaust manifold
— The head gasket
— Surfaces where a different sealant is specified
• Always follow all the safety recommendations and the directions
that are on the pipe sealant container.
• The surfaces to be sealed must be clean and dry.
• Use a pipe sealant bead of the size or quantity as specified in
the service procedure.
CAUTION!
Tools and Equipment • Special tools are listed and illustrated throughout this section
with a complete listing at the end of the section. These tools (or
their equivalents) are specially designed to quickly and safely
accomplish the operations for which they are intended. The use
of these special tools will also minimize possible damage to
engine components. Some precision measuring tools are
required for inspection of certain critical components. Torque
wrenches and a torque angle meter are necessary for the
proper tightening of various fasteners.
Checks Actions
Engine Performance diagnosis procedures are covered in Engine Controls and should be consulted for diagnosis of any
Driveability, Emissions or Malfunctioning Indicator Lamp (MIL) concerns. The following diagnosis covers common concerns
and possible causes. When the proper diagnosis is made, the concern should be corrected by adjustment, repair or
replacement as required. Refer to the appropriate section of the service manual for each specific procedure. This diagnostic
table will assist in engine misfire diagnosis due to a mechanical concern such as a faulty engine camshaft, worn or dam-
aged bearings or bent valve pushrod. This table will not isolate a crossed fuel injector wire, faulty fuel injector or any other
driveability component failure that may cause a misfire. The Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic System checks must be per-
formed first. When using this table to make a Base Engine Misfire diagnosis, begin with the preliminary information below
and then proceed to the specific category.
Checks Actions
1 Start the engine and determine if the noise is timed to the engine camshaft speed or the crank-
shaft speed.
2 Using a timing light, two knocks per flash is the crankshaft speed and one knock per flash is the
engine camshaft speed.
3 If the noise is timed to the engine camshaft speed, inspect the following:
• Missing or loose valve train components.
• Worn or loose valve rocker arms.
• Worn or bent valve pushrods.
• Faulty valve springs.
• Bent or burnt valves.
Abnormal Internal
• Worn engine camshaft lobes.
Engine Noise
• Worn or damaged camshaft timing chain and/or sprockets.
NOTE! A slight COLD knock or piston slapping noise could be considered normal
if not present after the engine has reached normal operating temperatures.
If the knock is timed to the crankshaft speed, inspect the following:
• Worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings
• Piston or cylinder damage
• Worn piston or piston pin
• Faulty connecting rod
• Excessive carbon build-up on the top of the piston
1 Inspect for a worn or improperly installed camshaft timing chain and/or sprockets.
2 Remove the valve rocker arm cover on the side of the engine with the cylinder that is misfiring.
3 Inspect for the following:
• Loose valve rocker arm studs
No Abnormal Internal
• Bent valve push rods
Engine Noise
• Faulty valve springs
• Faulty valve lifters (bleeding down)
• Worn or improperly seated valves
• Worn engine camshaft lobes
Symptoms Cause
When diagnosing engine noise complaints, use the following steps to isolate the source of the engine noise:
• Determine the type of noise. For example, is the noise a light rattle/tapping or a low rumble/knocking?
• The exact operating condition under which the noise existsNote factors such as ambient temperature, the amount of
engine warm-up time, the engine temperature, the engine RPM and other specifics.
• At what rate the noise occurs, and at what location on the engine. Engine noises are generally synchronized to either
engine speed (crankshaft, engine flywheel, connecting rods, crankshaft balancer or pistons and related compo-
nents) or one-half engine speed (valve train noise such as valve rocker arms, valve lifters and camshaft timing
chain). Determine the rate at which the noise is occurring.
• Compare the engine sounds to other engines, and make sure you are not trying to correct a normal condition.
• Improper oil viscosity. Install the recommended oil viscosity for the expected temperatures.
Noise on start-up but • Worn or dirty valve lifters.
only lasts a few sec- • Excessive piston-to-cylinder bore clearance.
onds • Excessive piston pin-to-bore clearance.
• Excessive crankshaft bearing clearance.
Symptoms Cause
Intermittent noise on • Improper oil viscosity. Install the recommended oil viscosity for the expected temperatures.
idle, disappears when • Lower than specified oil pressure.
the engine speed is • Dirty or worn valve lifters.
increased.
Symptoms Cause
• A light tapping noise at ½ engine speed, or any varying frequency, may indicate a valve train problem.
• Tapping noises will typically increase with engine speed.
• Before attempting to diagnose a valve train noise, check the proper engine oil level and then allow the engine to
obtain normal operating temperature.
• Sit in the driver’s seat, then operate the engine at various speeds and listen for any abnormal engine noise.
Symptoms Cause
Diagnostic Table
Table 4: Valve Train Diagnostic Table
Step Action Value(s) Yes No
DEFINITION: A light tapping noise at ½ engine speed, or at any varying frequency
1 Is there valve train noise — Go to Step 2 System OK
Check for a high engine oil level. An engine with the engine oil
level above the FULL mark on the oil level indicator allows the
crankshaft counterweights to churn the engine oil into foam.
2 — Go to Step 3 Go to Step 6
When the foamy engine oil is pumped into the valve lifters, the
valve lifters become noisy. A solid column of engine oil ensures
proper valve lifter operation. Is the engine oil level too high?
Drain the engine oil to the proper level. Is the tapping noise
3 — System OK Go to Step 6
gone?
Check for a low engine oil level. An engine with low oil level
below the ADD mark on the dipstick may allow the oil pump to
4 — Go to Step 5 Go to Step 6
pump air at high engine RPM. Is the engine oil level below the
ADD mark on the dipstick.
Add engine oil as required.
5 — System OK Go to Step 6
Is the tapping noise gone?
Check for the proper engine oil pressure. Refer to Engine
Mechanical Specifications and Oil Pressure Diagnosis and test- 6 psi
6 Go to Step 11 Go to Step 7
ing. (41.4kPa)
Is the engine oil pressure within specifications.
Check the oil pump screen for damage or a loose fit to the oil
pump.
7 — Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9
Is the oil pump screen loose or is the oil pump screen dam-
aged?
Repair as required.
8 — System OK Go to Step 9
Is the tapping noise gone?
Check for a damaged oil pump or loose bolts.
9 Refer to Oil pump Clean and Inspect. — Go to Step 10 Go to Step 11
Is the oil pump damaged or are the bolts loose?
Repair as required.
10 — System OK Go to Step 11
Is the tapping noise gone?
Remove and inspect and the valve lifters, the valve rocker arms
and pushrods. Refer to Rocker Arm and Pushrods Clean and
11 — Go to Step 12 Go to Step 13
Inspect.
Are the components worn or damaged?
Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing 1. With the vessel level, allow adequate drain down time (2-3 min-
utes) and measure for a low engine oil level.
• Add the recommended grade engine oil, and fill the crankcase
until the oil level measures FULL on the dipstick.
2. Operate the engine and verify low or no oil pressure on the vessel
oil pressure gauge or the oil indicator light.
Listen for a noisy valve train or a knocking noise.
3. Inspect for the following:
Diagnostic Aids The symptom may be intermittent due to moisture on the drive belt(s)
or the pulleys. It may be necessary to spray a small amount of water
on the drive belt(s) to duplicate the customers concern. If spraying
water on the drive belt(s) duplicates the symptom, cleaning the belt
pulleys may be the probable solution.
A loose or improper installation of a boat component, or other items of
the vessel may cause the chirping noise.
Test Description The number(s) below refer to the step number(s) on the diagnostic
table.
1. The noise may not be engine related. This step is to verify that the
engine is making the noise. If the engine is not making the noise,
do not proceed further with this table.
2. The noise may be an internal engine noise.
3. Removing the drive belt and operating the engine for a brief period
will verify the noise is related to the drive belt. When removing the
drive belt(s), the water pump may not be operating and the engine
may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating
with the drive belt removed.
4. Inspect all drive belt pulleys for pilling. Pilling is the small balls or
pills or it can be strings in the drive belt grooves from the accumu-
lation of rubber dust.
5. Misalignment of the pulleys may be caused from improper mount-
ing of the accessory drive component, incorrect installation of the
accessory drive component pulley or the pulley bent inward or out-
ward from a previous repair. Test for a misaligned pulley.using a
straight edge in the pulley grooves across two or three pulleys. If a
misaligned pulley is found, refer to that accessory drive compo-
nent for the proper installation procedure for that pulley.
6. Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a
wrong bolt, nut, spacer or washer was installed.
7. Inspecting the pulleys for being bent should include inspecting for
a dent or other damage to the pulleys that would prevent the drive
belt from not seating properly in all of the pulley grooves or on the
smooth surface of a pulley when the back side of the belt is used
to drive the pulley.
8. Replacing the drive belt when it is not damaged or there is not
excessive pilling will only be a temporary repair.
Symptoms - Drive Belt NOTE! Review the system operation to familiarize yourself with
the system functions. Refer to Drive Belt System Descrip-
tion.
Visual/Physical Inspection • Inspect for aftermarket devices which could affect the operation
of the drive belts.
• Inspect the easily accessible or visible system components for
obvious damage or conditions which could cause the symptom.
• Inspect the drive belt for excessive wear, shredding or missing
sections.
• Inspect the drive belt for contamination of excessive dirt, oil,
coolant or other substances that may affect the drive belt opera-
tion.
Symptoms List Refer to a symptom diagnostic procedure from the following list to
diagnose the symptom:
Drive Belt Chirping Diagnosis
Did you review the Drive Belt Symptom operation and perform the nec- Go to Symp-
1 Go to Step 2
essary inspections? toms–Drive Belt
Verify that there is a chirping noise.Does the engine make the chirping Go to Diagnos-
2 Go to Step 3
noise? tic Aids
Inspect for sever piling exceeding 1/3 of the belt groove depth.
4 Go to Step 5 Go to Step 6
Does the belt grooves have pilling?
Test Description The number(s) below refer to the step number(s) on the diagnostic
table.
1. The noise may not be engine related. This step is to verify that the
engine is making the noise. If the engine is not making the noise,
do not proceed further with this table.
2. The noise may be an internal engine noise.
Removing the drive belt and operating the engine for a brief period
will verify the noise is related to the drive belt. When removing the
drive belt(s), the circulation pump may not be operating and the en-
gine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operat-
ing with the drive belt removed.
3. This test is to verify that an accessory drive component does not
have a seized bearing. With the belt removed, test the bearings in
the accessory drive components for turning smoothly. Also test the
accessory drive components with the engine operating by varying
Diagnostic Aids The drive belt will not cause the whine noise.
If the whine noise is intermittent, verify the accessory drive compo-
nents by varying their loads making sure they are operated to their
maximum capacity. An overcharged A/C system, power steering sys-
tem with a pinched hose or wrong fluid or a generator failing are sug-
gested items to inspect.
Test Description The number(s) below refer to the step number(s) on the diagnostic
table.
1. This test is to verify that the noise is being caused by the drive
belt(s) or the accessory drive components. When removing the
drive belt(s), the water pump may not be operating and the engine
may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating
with the drive belt(s) removed.
2. The inspection should include checking the drive belt tensioner
and the drive belt idler pulley bearings. The drive belt(s) may have
to be installed and the accessory drive components operated sep-
arately by varying their loads. Refer to the suspected accessory
drive component for the proper inspection and replacement proce-
dure.
Did you review the Drive Belt Symptom operation and perform the nec- Go to Symp-
1 Go to Step 2
essary inspections? toms–Drive Belt
Diagnostic Aids Vibration from the engine operating may cause a boat component or
another part of the vessel to make rumbling noise.
The drive belt(s) may have a condition that can not be seen or felt.
Sometimes replacing the drive belt may be the only repair for the
symptom.
If replacing the drive belt(s), completing the diagnostic table, and the
noise is only heard when the drive component with a failure. Varying
the load on the different accessory drive components may aid in identi-
fying which component is causing the rumbling noise.
Test Description
The following number(s) refer to the step number(s) on the diagnostic
table.
Diagnostic Aids The accessory drive components can have an affect on engine vibra-
tion. Such as, but not limited to the
A/C system overcharged, the power steering system restricted or the
incorrect fluid or an extra load on the generator. To help identify an
Test Description The following number(s) refer to the step number(s) on the diagnostic
table.
1. This test is to verify that the symptom is present during diagnos-
ing. Other vessel components may cause a similar symptom such
as the exhaust system or the drivetrain.
2. This test is to verify that the drive belt(s) or accessory drive com-
ponents may be causing the vibration. When removing the drive
belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may
overheat. Also, DTC’s may set when the engine is operating with
the drive belt removed.
3. The drive belt(s) may cause a vibration. While the drive belt(s) is
removed, inspect the condition of the belt.
1. Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a
wrong bolt, nut, spacer or washer was installed.
1. This step should only be performed if the fan is driven by the drive
belt. Inspect the engine cooling fan for bent, twisted, loose or
cracked blades. Inspect the fan for smoothness, ease of turning.
Inspect for a bent fan shaft or bent mounting flange.
2. This step should only be performed if the water pump is driven by
the drive belt. Inspect the water pump shaft for being bent. Also
inspect the water pump bearings for smoothness and excessive
play. Compare the water pump with a known good water pump.
3. Accessory drive component brackets that are bent, cracked or
loose may put extra strain on that accessory component causing it
to vibrate.
Diagnostic Aids If the drive belt(s) repeatedly falls off the drive belt pulleys, this is
because of pulley misalignment.
An extra load that is quickly applied and released by an accessory
drive component may cause the drive belt to fall off the pulleys. Verify
the accessory drive components operate properly.
If the drive belt(s) is the incorrect length, the drive belt tensioner may
not keep the proper tension on the drive belt.
Test Description
The number(s) below refer to the step number(s) on the diagnostic
table.
1. This inspection is to verify the condition of the drive belt. Damage
may of occurred to the drive belt when the drive belt fell off. The
drive belt may of been damaged, which caused the drive belt to fall
off. Inspect the belt for cuts, tears, sections of ribs missing or dam-
aged belt plies.
1. Misalignment of the pulleys may be caused from improper mount-
ing of the accessory drive component, incorrect installation of the
accessory drive component pulley or the pulley bent inward or out-
ward from a previous repair. Test for a misaligned pulley using a
straight edge in the pulley grooves across two or three pulleys. If a
misaligned pulley is found, refer to that accessory drive compo-
nent for the proper installation procedure of that pulley.
2. Inspecting the pulleys for being bent should include inspecting for
a dent or other damage to the pulleys that would prevent the drive
belt from not seating properly in all of the pulley grooves or on the
smooth surface of a pulley when the back side of the belt is used
to drive the pulley.
3. Accessory drive component brackets that are bent or cracked will
let the drive belt fall off.
4. Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a
wrong bolt, nut, spacer or washer was installed. Missing, loose or
the wrong fasteners may cause pulley misalignment from the
bracket moving under load. Over tightening of the fasteners may
cause misalignment of the accessory component bracket.
Test Description The following number(s) refer to the step number(s) on the diagnostic
table.
1. This inspection is to verify the drive belt(s) is correctly installed on
all of the drive belt pulleys. Wear on the drive belt(s) may be
caused by mis-positioning the drive belt(s) by one groove on a pul-
ley.
2. The installation of a drive belt that is two wide or two narrow will
cause wear on the drive belt. The drive belt ribs should match all
of the grooves on all of the pulleys.
CAUTION!
Specification
Application
Metric English
General
Engine Type V8
Displacement 8.1L 496 CID
RPO L18
VIN G
Bore 107.95 mm 4.25 in
Stroke 111.0 mm 4.37 in
Compression Ratio 9.1:1
Firing Order 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3
Spark Plug Gap 1.52 mm 0.06 in
Block
Crankshaft Main Bearing Bore Diameter 74.606-74.622 mm 2.9372-2.9379 in
Cylinder Bore Diameter - Production 107.95-107.968 mm 4.25-4.2507 in
Cylinder Bore Diameter - Service 107.94-107.99 mm 4.2496-4.2516 in
Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round - Production, Maximum Minus Mini- 0.018 mm 0.0007 in
mum Bore Diameter
"Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round - Service, Maximum Minus Minimum 0.05 mm 0.002 in
Bore Diameter
Cylinder Bore Taper - Production 0.018 mm 0.0007 in
Cylinder Bore Taper - Service Thrust Axis 0.05 mm 0.002 in
Cylinder Bore Taper - Service Pin Axis 0.05 mm 0.002 in
Cylinder Head Deck Height - from Centerline of Crankshaft 259.875-260.125 mm 10.231-10.241 in
Cylinder Head Deck Surface Flatness - Entire Face 0.1 mm 0.004 in
Cylinder Head Deck Surface Flatness - Within 150 mm (6 in) 0.05 mm 0.002 in
Valve Lifter Bore Diameter 21.417-21.443 mm 0.843-0.844 in
Camshaft
Camshaft Bearing Inside Diameter 49.548-49.573 mm 1.9507-1.9517 in
Camshaft Journal Diameter 49.472-49.522 mm 1.9477-1.9497 in
Camshaft Lobe Lift - Exhaust 6.973-7.075 mm 0.2745-0.2785 in
Camshaft Lobe Lift - Intake 6.924-7.026 mm 0.2726-0.2766 in
Camshaft Runout - Production 0.051 mm 0.002 in
Camshaft Runout - Service 0.076 mm 0.003 in
Connecting Rod
Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance - Production 0.033-0.068 mm 0.0013-0.0027 in
Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance - Service 0.033-0.081 mm 0.0013-0.0032 in
Connecting Rod Side Clearance 0.384-0.686 mm 0.0151-0.027 in
Crankshaft
Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 55.854-55.87 mm 2.199-2.1996 in
Connecting Rod Journal Out-of-Round - Production 0.0102 mm 0.0004 in
Connecting Rod Journal Taper - Production 0.0102 mm 0.0004 in
Crankshaft End Play 0.127-0.35 mm 0.005-0.0138 in
"Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance - #1, #2, #3, #4 Production "0.022-0.057 mm 0.0008-0.0022 in
Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance - #5 Production 0.034-0.069 mm 0.0013-0.0027 in
"Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance - #1, #2, #3, #4 Service "0.022-0.089 mm 0.0008-0.0035 in
Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance - #5 Service Limit 0.035-0.102 mm 0.0014-0.004 in
Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter 69.805-69.822 mm 2.7482-2.7489 in
Crankshaft Main Journal Out-of-Round - Production 0.0102 mm 0.0004 in
Crankshaft Main Journal Taper - Production 0.0102 mm 0.0004 in
Crankshaft Runout - Production 0.05 mm 0.002 in
Crankshaft Runout - Service 0.065 mm 0.0026 in
Specification
Application
Metric English
Cylinder Head
Cylinder Head Height/Thickness 259.875-260.125 mm 10.231-10.241 in
Surface Flatness - Block Deck 0.05 mm 0.002 in
Surface Flatness - Exhaust Manifold Deck 0.102 mm 0.004 in
Surface Flatness - Intake Manifold Deck 0.08 mm 0.003 in
Exhaust Manifold
Surface Flatness 0.254 mm 0.01 in
Lubrication System
Oil Capacity - Without Filter 5.7L 6.0 Qts
Oil Pressure - Minimum 34 kPa 1,000 RPM 5 psi 1,000 RPM
Oil Pressure - Minimum 69 kPa 2,000 RPM 10 psi 2,000 RPM
Piston Rings
Piston Ring End Gap
First Compression Ring - Production 0.3-0.45 mm 0.012-0.018 in
First Compression Ring - Service 0.45-0.675 mm 0.018-0.027 in
Second Compression Ring - Production 0.45-0.65 mm 0.017-0.025 in
Second Compression Ring - Service 0.675-0.975 mm 0.026-0.039 in
Oil Control Ring - Production 0.249-0.759 mm 0.0098-0.0299 in
Oil Control Ring - Service 0.373-1.138 mm 0.015-0.045 in
Piston Ring-to-Groove Clearance
First Compression Ring 0.031-0.074 mm 0.0012-0.0029 in
Second Compression Ring 0.031-0.074 mm 0.0012-0.0029 in
Oil Control Ring 0.051-0.203 mm 0.002-0.008 in
Piston and Pins
Piston
Piston Diameter Not Measurable Not Measurable
Piston-to-Bore Clearance Interference Fit Interference Fit
Pin
Pin-Piston Pin Fit in Connecting Rod Bore-Production 0.010-0.023 mm 0.0004-0.0009 in
Pin-Piston Pin Fit in Connecting Rod Bore-Service 0.010-0.023 mm 0.0004-0.0009 in
Pin-Piston Pin Clearance-to-Piston Pin Bore-Production 0.003-0.011 mm 0.00019-0.00043 in
Pin-Piston Pin Clearance-to-Piston Pin Bore-Service 0.003-0.011 mm 0.00019-0.00043 in
Pin-Piston Pin Diameter 26.416-26.419 mm 1.039-1.040 in
Valve System
Valves
Valve Face Angle - Exhaust 45 degrees
Valve Face Angle - Intake 45 degrees
Valve Head Diameter - Exhaust 43.69 mm 1.72 in
Valve Head Diameter - Intake 55.63 mm 2.19 in
Valve Lash - Exhaust Net Lash Net Lash
Valve Lash - Intake Net Lash Net Lash
Valve Seat Angle - Exhaust 46 degrees
Valve Seat Angle - Intake 46 degrees
Valve Seat Runout - Exhaust 0.05 mm 0.002 in
Valve Seat Runout - Intake 0.05 mm 0.002 in
Valve Seat Width - Exhaust 1.651-2.159 mm 0.060-0.095 in
Valve Seat Width - Intake 0.8-1.2 mm 0.03-0.06 in
Specification
Application
Metric English
Valve Stem Diameter - Exhaust 9.431-9.449 mm 0.3713-0.372 in
Valve Stem Diameter - Intake 9.436-9.454 mm 0.3715-0.3722 in
Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance - Exhaust - Production 0.03-0.079 mm 0.0012-0.0031 in
Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance - Intake - Production 0.025-0.074 mm 0.001-0.0029 in
Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance - Exhaust - Service 0.03-0.104 mm 0.0012-0.0041 in
Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance - Intake - Service 0.025-0.099 mm 0.001-0.0039 in
Rocker Arms
Valve Rocker Arm Ratio 1.7:1
Valve Springs
Valve Spring Free Length 56.35 mm 2.218 in
Valve Spring Installed Height 45.92-46.69 mm 1.808-1.838 in
Valve Spring Load - Closed 381-419 N at 45.92 mm 86-94 lb at 1.808 in
Valve Spring Load - Open 964-1056 N at 33.99 mm 216-236 lb at 1.338 in
Repair Instructions
Draining Engine Fluids
228483 1. Drain the engine oil. ‘Draining and Filling the Engine Crankcase”
on page 9.
2 2. Drain coolant, See “Draining Engine Block or Exhaust Manifold” on
page 214.
49465 1. Remove raw water pump holding bracket screws and bracket.
2. Remove raw water pump mounting screws and remove pump.
23346 3. Install a breaker bar with hex head socket to the drive belt ten-
sioner bolt.
4. Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise to relieve belt tension.
5. Remove the belt from the pulleys and drive belt tensioner.
6. Slowly release the tension on the drive belt tensioner.
7. Remove the breaker bar and socket from the drive belt tensioner.
8. Clean and inspect the belt surfaces of all the pulleys.
9. Remove engine drive belt
CAUTION!
8.1GXi-A
373133 Tools Required
J 43276
• J 43276 Pilot Bearing Remover
Caution!
When using the J 43276 Pilot Bearing Remover, always
secure the J 43276-1 Pilot Bearing Remover tool body
using a wrench. Do not allow the J 43276-1 Pilot Bearing
Remover tool body to rotate. Failing to do so will cause
damage to the J 43276-1 Pilot Bearing remover tool body.
1. Remove the pilot bearing using the J 43276.
2. Install the J 43276-1 tool body into the pilot bearing.
8.1Gi-B/C/D/E/F, 8.1GXi-B/C/D/E
375105 Tools Required
J 23907 Slide Hammer
470639 1. Remove the dipstick tube bracket nut from the exhaust manifold
stud.
2. Remove the dipstick tube bracket from the exhaust manifold stud.
3. Remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan.
4. Remove the O-ring seal from the dipstick tube.
470666 CAUTION!
23270 3. Remove the bolts which hold the alternator and steering pump
bracket in place. There are six bolts, as depicted in the image at
left.
4. Remove the idler pulley.
23271 6. Disconnect and remove all the hoses from the thermostat housing.
7. Remove the bypass hose.
470774 2. Remove the fuel injection fuel rail bolts and/or studs.
3. Remove the fuel injection fuel rail.
CAUTION!
470783 7. Remove and discard the lower intake manifold end seals.
NOTE! The splash shield is secured using a snap-fit. Do not dis-
tort the splash shield. The splash shield is reusable.
Rocker Arm and Push Rod NOTE! Mark, organize and sort the cylinder head components.
Removal Return the components to their original location during
reassembly. Make an organizer rack from a piece of wood.
470899 1. Remove the valve rocker arm nuts, the valve rocker arm balls and
the valve rocker arms.
470906 3. Remove the valve rocker arm studs and push rod guides.
470994 1. Remove the valve lifter guide retainer bolts and retainer.
NOTE! Mark, organize and sort the cylinder head components for
return to their original location during assembly.
719128 4. Some valve lifters may be stuck in their bore due to gum or varnish
deposits. These lifters can be removed using the J 3049-A.
635654 2. Remove the oil pan and the captured oil pan gasket.
NOTE! The oil pan gasket is reusable only if they are not cut or
damaged.
635701 1. Remove the bolt that attaches the oil pump to the rear crankshaft
bearing cap.
2. Remove the oil pump, driveshaft and retainer from the rear crank-
shaft bearing cap.
3. Separate the oil pump, driveshaft and retainer.
4. Discard the driveshaft retainer.
Camshaft Removal
471002 3. Install three 8-1.25 x 100 mm bolts in the camshaft front bolt holes.
CAUTION!
639533159 12. Install two pieces of rubber fuel line on the connecting rod studs to
prevent damage to the crankshaft.
639536 13. Remove the piston, connecting rod and upper connecting rod
bearing out of the top of the engine block.
639532 14. Remove the rubber fuel line from the connecting rod bolts.
15. Remove the remaining piston and the connecting rod.
16. Remove the J 42846 from the front of the crankshaft.
655279 4. Thread the center bolt of J 43320 into the crankshaft to remove the
seal.
5. Remove the J 43320 guide pins from the crankshaft.
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
471041 9. Remove the crankshaft upper bearings from the engine block.
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
471138 11. Remove the left side oil pressure sending unit, oil pressure alarm
switch, and tee assembly.
6.500 mm
(0.26”)
639523 2. Prior to bearing removal, inspect the camshaft bearings for loose
fit in the engine block bearing bores (positions 1–5).
5
66100 3. Select the expanding driver (4-8) and washer (2 or 3) from the J
15 33049.
14 1
4. Assemble the J 33049.
13 2
12
11 3
4
9 7
10 8
64183 5. Insert the J 33049 through the front of the engine block and into
the bearing.
6. Tighten the expander assembly nut (15) until snug.
7. Push the guide cone (1) into the front camshaft bearing (position
1) to align the J 33049.
8. Drive the inner bearings (positions 2,3 and 4) from their block
bores.
NOTE! Remove the inner bearings (positions 2,3 and 4) first. The
outer bearings (positions 1 and 5) serve as a guide for the
J 33049.
63219 9. Assemble the J 33049 handle (10), expanding driver (4-8) and
washer (2 or 3).
10. Insert the J 33049 into the outer camshaft bearings (positions 1 or
5).
11. Drive the outer bearings (positions 1 or 5) from the bore.
J 33049
35209 7. Inspect the engine block cylinder head deck for flatness using a
straight edge and a feeler gauge.
• The surface must be flat within 0.10 mm (0.004 in).
719134 8. Use a bore gauge and measure the cylinder bore for taper, out-of-
round and oversize. Slide the bore gauge up and down throughout
the length of the cylinder bore. Check the bore both parallel and
perpendicular to the centerline of the crankshaft at the top, center
and bottom of the bore. A cylinder bore that measures 107.940-
107.990 mm (4.249-4.251 in) may be honed and serviced with a
standard size piston/connecting rod assembly. A cylinder bore that
exceeds the maximum diameter must be serviced with an over-
sized piston/connecting rod assembly.
23548 Note! The piston has a coating on the piston skirt (A) which
allows for and interference fit between the piston skirt and
cylinder bore. The piston diameter can not be measured
accurately in the coated area of the piston skirt due to the
inconsistency of the coating thickness. Do not measure
the piston in the coated area.
To select the correct piston for installation, the cylinder
bore must be measured. If the cylinder bore diameter is
A within service specification (See “Specifications 8.1Gi-B/
C/D/E, 8.1GXi-A/B/C/D” on page 53), install orginal piston/
connecting rod assembly. A used piston/connecting rod
may be reinstalled if, after cleaning and inspection, the
piston is not damaged.
If the cylinder bore is NOT within specifications, the cylin-
der must be resized to accept a new oversized piston.
Pistons come in standard and 0.030 in. oversized. If the
cylinder requires resizing to fit the 0.030 piston, the cylin-
der must be bored to the oversized specification (See
“Specifications 8.1Gi-B/C/D/E, 8.1GXi-A/B/C/D” on
page 53).
CAUTION!
If you do not check the cylinder block, the boring bar may
be tilted. This may result in an incorrectly bored cylinder
wall to crankshaft angle.
9. Before you use any type of boring bar, file the top of the cylinder
block to remove any dirt or burrs.
10. Carefully follow the instructions furnished by the manufacturer
regarding use of the equipment.
11. When you bore cylinders, make sure all crankshaft bearing caps
are in place.
• Tighten the bearing caps to the proper torque to avoid distortion
of the bores in the final assembly.
• The crankshaft must be removed prior to cylinder boring.
12. When you take the final cut with a boring bar, leave 0.03 mm
(0.001 in) on the diameter for finish honing. This gives the required
position to the cylinder clearance specifications. (Carefully perform
the honing and boring operation to maintain the specified clear-
ances between pistons, rings and cylinder bores).
Cylinder Honing Procedure NOTE! Always remove all bearings and components from the
engine block before cleaning, boring or honing the engine
block.
186747 1. When honing the cylinders, follow the manufacturer’s recommen-
dations for equipment use, cleaning and lubrication.
• Use only clean, sharp stones of the proper grade for the
amount of material you remove.
• Dull, dirty stones cut unevenly and generate excessive heat.
• Do not hone to a final grade with a coarse or medium-grade
stone.
• Leave sufficient metal so that all stone marks may be removed
with final grade stones.
• Perform final honing with a fine-grade stone and hone the cylin-
der in a cross hatch pattern at 45 to 65 degrees to obtain the
proper clearance.
2. During the honing operation, thoroughly clean the cylinder bore.
• Repeatedly check the cylinder bore for fit with the selected pis-
ton.
• All measurements of the piston or the cylinder bore should be
made with the components at normal room temperature.
3. When honing to eliminate taper in the cylinder, make full strokes of
the hone in the cylinder. Repeatedly check the measurement at
the top, the middle and the bottom of the bore.
• The finish marks should be clean but not sharp.
• The finish marks should be free from embedded particles and
torn or folded metal.
4. When finished, the reconditioned cylinder bores should have less
than or meet the specified out-of-round or taper requirements.
5. After final honing and before the piston is checked for fit, clean the
bores with hot water and detergent.
6. Scrub the bores with a stiff bristle brush and rinse the bores thor-
oughly with hot water. Do not allow any abrasive material to
remain in the cylinder bores.
• Abrasive material may cause premature wear of new piston
rings and cylinder bores.
• Abrasive material will contaminate the engine oil and may
cause premature wear of the bearings.
7. After washing the cylinder bore, dry the bore with a clean shop
towel.
8. Perform final measurements of the piston and cylinder bore.
9. Permanently mark the piston for the specific cylinder to which it
has been fitted.
10. Apply clean engine oil to each cylinder bore to prevent rusting.
CAUTION!
NOTE! The crankshaft pin is a pressed in roll pin. The pin only
needs to be removed from the crankshaft if the pin is dam-
aged.
639543 4. Inspect the crankshaft pin for damage:
• Measure for proper installed height.
2.00 - 2.25 mm
(0.078 - 0.088”) • Replace the crankshaft pin if it is damaged.
CAUTION!
677772 5. Inspect the reluctor wheels for cracked, bent or broken teeth.
188015 6. Measure the crankshaft main journals and the crankpins for out-of-
round and taper.
639520 10. Inspect the crankshaft thrust wall surface for wear (1) and/or
excessive runout (2). Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
1 2
CAUTION!
4. Install the crankshaft bearing caps and the crankshaft bearing cap
bolts and studs.
5. Tighten
• Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap inner bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft.
lb.)
• Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap outer studs to 30 Nm (22 ft.
lb.)
• Using the J 36660-A, tighten the crankshaft bearing cap inner
bolts an additional 90 degrees.
• Using the J 36660-A, tighten the crankshaft bearing cap outer
studs an additional 80 degrees.
6. Measure the crankshaft bearing inside diameter (ID) using an
inside micrometer. Measure at a minimum of four places and aver-
age the measurements.
7. To determine the crankshaft bearing clearance, subtract the crank-
shaft journal diameter from the crankshaft bearing ID.
8. Compare the crankshaft bearing clearance to the specifications.
Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
9. If the crankshaft bearing clearances exceeds specifications, install
the new crankshaft bearings.
10. Measure the new crankshaft bearing inside diameter (ID) using an
inside micrometer.
11. Replace or repair the crankshaft if the proper clearances cannot
be obtained.
CAUTION!
3. Install the connecting rod bearings into the connecting rod cap and
the connecting rod.
NOTE! Use the original connecting rod nuts for clearance mea-
surement. During final assembly, new connecting rod nuts
must be used to obtain correct fastener tightening.
4. Install the connecting rod cap and the original (used) nuts.
5. Tighten the connecting rod nuts to 30 Nm (22 ft lb.). Using the J
3660-A, tighten the connecting rod nuts an additional 90 degrees.
6. Measure the connecting rod bearing inside diameter (ID) using an
inside micrometer.
7. Compare the connecting rod bearing clearance specifications.
Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
8. If the connecting rod bearing clearance is within specifications, the
connecting rod bearing is satisfactory.
• If the clearance is not within specifications, replace the con-
necting rod bearing.
• Always replace both the upper and lower connecting rod
bearings as an assembly.
9. A standard or undersize connecting rod bearing combination may
result in the proper clearance. If the proper connecting rod bearing
clearance cannot be achieved using a standard or the undersize
connecting rod bearings, it will be necessary to replace or repair
the crankshaft.
Plastic Gauge Method for Main NOTE! When bearings are removed, NEW bearings must be
Bearings installed during reassembly.
639522 1. Install the crankshaft and crankshaft bearings into the engine
block, making sure not to damage the reluctor rings of the crank-
shaft.
2. Install the gauging plastic the full width of the crankshaft journal.
CAUTION!
4980 8. Remove the crankshaft bearing cap bolts and the crankshaft bear-
ing caps. The gauging plastic may adhere to either the crankshaft
journal or the crankshaft bearing surface.
4980 3. Install the gauging plastic the full width of the crankpin journal.
NOTE! Use the original connecting rod nuts for clearance mea-
surement. During final assembly, new connecting rod nuts
must be used to obtain correct fastener tightening.
639084 4. Install the connecting rod cap and the original (used) nuts.
5. Tighten the connecting rod nuts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lb.) Using the J
36660-A, tighten the connecting rod nuts an additional 90
degrees.
6. Remove the connecting rod nuts and cap. The gauging plastic
may adhere to either the crankpin journal or the connecting rod
bearing surface.
Measuring Crankshaft End Play NOTE! To properly measure the crankshaft end play, the crank-
shaft, bearings, bearing caps and fasteners must be
installed into the engine block and the bolts tightened to
specifications. Refer to Crankshaft and Bearings Installa-
tion.
677804 1. Install the J 7872 or equivalent to the cylinder block, with the dial
indicator plunger against one of the counterweights of the crank-
shaft.
2. Firmly thrust the end of the crankshaft first rearward then forward.
This will line up the rear crankshaft bearing and the crankshaft
thrust surfaces.
3. With the crankshaft pushed forward, zero the dial indicator. Move
the crankshaft rearward and read the endplay measurement on
the dial indicator. An optional method is to insert a feeler gauge
between the crankshaft and the bearing surface and measure the
clearance. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
4. If the correct end play cannot be obtained, inspect for the following
conditions:
• Verify that the correct size crankshaft bearing has been installed.
Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
• Inspect the crankshaft thrust wall surface(s) for wear and/or
excessive runout. Refer to J 7872.
5. Inspect the crankshaft for binding. Turn the crankshaft to check for
binding. If the crankshaft does not turn freely, loosen the crank-
shaft bearing bolts, one cap at a time, until the tight bearing is
located. The following condition(s) could cause a lack of clearance
at the bearing:
• Burrs on the crankshaft bearing cap
• Foreign matter between the crankshaft bearing and the block or
the crankshaft bearing cap
• A faulty crankshaft bearing
Measuring Connecting Rod NOTE! To properly measure the connecting rod side clearance,
Side Clearance the piston/connecting rod assembly and bearings must be
installed into the engine block and the connecting rod
nuts tightened to specifications. Refer to Piston, Connect-
ing Rod and Bearing Installation.
677801 1. Install the J 7872 or equivalent to the cylinder block, with the dial
indicator plunger against the side of the pair of connecting rods.
2. With the connecting rods pushed forward, zero the dial indicator.
Firmly move the pair of connecting rods side to side and read the
measurement on the dial indicator. An optional method is to insert
a feeler gauge between the connecting rod caps and measure the
connecting rod side clearance. Refer to Engine Mechanical Speci-
fications.
CAUTION!
8.1Gi-F, 8.1GXi-E The piston and connecting rod have a full floating wrist
pin design and should be disassembled and inspected as
follows.
1366364 1. Rotate the piston pin retaining clips until the ring end gap is posi-
tioned in the cutout area (1) of the piston pin bore.
1366368 2. Remove the clips starting in the cutout area of the piston pin bore.
35866 3. Remove the pin from the piston and connecting rod.
4. The piston and pin are matched set and are not to be serviced
separately. Mark the forward direction of the connecting rod and
piston Keep the connecting rod matched to the piston. Mark, sort
or organize the piston and matching piston pin.
Piston, Connecting Rod and Bearings NOTE! The piston diameter can NOT be measured due to the pis-
Clean and Inspect ton coating. Do NOT measure the piston diameter.
NOTE! Measurement of all components must be taken with the
components at room temperature.
CAUTION!
4977 3. Clean the piston ring grooves with a suitable ring groove cleaning
tool.
4. Clean the piston oil lubrication holes and slots.
J 3936-03
DRC22934 11. Measure the piston ring side clearance with a feeler gauge.
12. If the side clearance is too small, try another piston ring set. See
“Specifications 8.1Gi-B/C/D/E, 8.1GXi-A/B/C/D” on page 53.
13. If the proper piston ring-to-piston ring groove clearance cannot be
achieved, replace the piston and pin assembly.
CAUTION!
If a piston or connecting rod require replacement with a
floating wrist pin piston and connecting rod design, all
eight should be changed as a set. Replacing one piston
and connecting rod with a different design will affect
engine balance and produce a rough running engine.
156167 14. Inspect the connecting rod for an out-of-round bearing bore.
CAUTION!
4967 6. Install the lower oil control piston ring spacer onto the piston (1).
7. Install the lower oil control piston ring onto the piston (2).
4
8. Install the upper oil control piston ring onto the piston (2).
9. Space the oil control piston ring end gaps a minimum of 90
degrees apart.
3 10. Install the lower compression piston ring onto the piston. The mark
}
(3) on the side of the piston ring should face the top of the piston.
11. Install the upper compression piston ring onto the piston. The
mark (4) on the side of the piston ring should face the top of the
piston.
1 2
VE074-3L 12. Space the compression piston ring end gaps 180 degrees apart.
FORWARD
C A D
10 8
4985 2. Insert the J 33049 tool into the engine block end camshaft bear-
ings (positions 1 or 5).
3. Drive the end bearings (positions 1 and 5) into the bore.
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
66100 4. Select the expanding driver (4-8) and washer (2 or 3) from the
15 J33049.
14 1
5. Assemble the tool.
13 2
12
11 3
4
9 7
10 8
64183 6. Insert the J 33049 tool through the front of the engine block and to
the inner bearing bores (positions 2-4).
7. Install the bearing onto the expanding driver (4-8).
8. Tighten the expander assembly nut (15) until the tool is snug in the
bearing.
9. Align the oil lubrication hole in the bearing with the oil galleries in
the engine block.
10. Push the guide cone (1) into the front camshaft bearing bore to
align the tool.
11. Drive the bearing into the bore.
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
188097 4. Inspect the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets for the following:
1
• Worn teeth (1)
• Damaged teeth (2)
2 • Chipped teeth (3)
• Uneven wear on one edge of the teeth
3 • Worn valleys between the sprocket teeth
• Crankshaft sprocket keyway for wear
Valve Rocker Arm and Push NOTE! Parts that are to be reused must remain sorted or orga-
Rods Clean and Inspect nized to return to their original locations.
470899 1. Clean the components in solvent.
635675 11. Inspect the push rod guides for the following:
• Wear between the push rod and the push rod guide (1)
• Bent push rod guide (2)
• Cracks
12. Push rod guides with excessive wear and/or damage must be
replaced.
1
2
Valve Lifters and Guides Clean and NOTE! Parts that are to be reused must remain sorted or orga-
Inspect nized to return them to their original locations.
CAUTION!
470994 6. Inspect the valve lifter guide retainer for the following:
• Wear, damage or stress cracking in the leg areas
• Wear or damage around the retainer bolt holes
635678 9. Remove the cylinder head coolant plug from the left cylinder head.
CAUTION!
35201 4. Use the J 8089 to clean the carbon from the combustion cham-
bers.
J-8089
Visual Inspection Procedure Inspect the cylinder head for the following:
• Damaged gasket surfaces
• Damage to threaded bolt holes
• Burnt or eroded areas in the combustion chamber
• Cracks in the exhaust ports and combustion chambers
• External cracks in the water chamber
• Restrictions in the intake or exhaust passages
• Restrictions in the cooling system passages
CAUTION!
6
156173 2. Inspect the valve contact surface for the following:
• Undersized margin (1)
• Pitted surface (2)
• Burnt or eroded areas (3)
CAUTION!
156172 4. Drop the valve head about 1.6 mm (0.064 in) off the valve seat.
1 5. Use light pressure when moving the valve stem from side to side
to obtain a clearance reading. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifi-
cations.
6. Valve guide (2) with excessive clearance must be repaired. Refer
2 to Valve Guide Reaming/Valve and Seat Grinding.
7. Replace the cylinder head if the valve guide cannot be repaired or
reamed to accept an oversize valve stem.
480556 1. Ream the valve guide as necessary to achieve proper valve stem-
to-guide clearance with the new, oversized valve stems.
2. Always recondition the valve seat after reaming the valve guide
J-5830-3 bores or installing new valves.
3. Replace the cylinder head if the valve guide cannot be repaired or
reamed to accept an oversize valve stem.
Valve Reconditioning
53234 1. Replace the valve if the valve stem shows excessive wear or is
warped.
NOTE! Several different types of equipment are available for
reconditioning valves. Use the manufacturer’s recommen-
dations of equipment to attain proper results.
2. Reface pitted valves on a valve refacing machine to ensure the
correct relationship between the head and the valve stem.
3. Replace the valve if the edge (4) of the head is less than 0.79 mm
(0.031 in) thick after grinding.
Valve Seat Reconditioning NOTE! Several different types of equipment are available for
reconditioning valve seats. Use the manufacturer’s recom-
mendations of equipment to attain proper results.
NOTE! Always recondition the valve seat after reaming the valve
guide bores or installing new valves.
1. Recondition the valve seats.
2. The valves must seat perfectly for the engine to deliver optimum
power and performance.
3. Ensure that the valve seat and the valve are not shrouded after the
valve seat reconditioning. Adequate flow past the valve seat and
valve is essential for cooling the valve head and valve seat area.
4. Correct contact (1) between each valve and its seat in the cylinder
head is also essential to ensure that the heat in the valve head is
properly carried away.
CAUTION!
4 CAUTION!
677779 6. Lubricate the valve stems (6) with clean engine oil.
7. Insert the valves into their proper locations.
8. Install the necessary valve spring shims onto the cylinder head.
9. Lubricate the rotators (5) with clean engine oil.
10. Install the rotators over the guide and onto the valve spring shims,
if applicable.
CAUTION!
When installing valve stem oil seals onto the valve guides,
be careful not to tear the seal lip.
When installing valve seals, J 43105 must be used to
achieve correct installation. Failure to use J43105 may
cause excessive oil consumption.
11. Lubricate the valve stem seal and the outside diameter of the
valve guide with clean engine oil.
NOTE! When installing valve springs, the small end of the valve
spring must be installed up.
12. Install the valve springs (3).
13. Install the valve spring caps (2).
480554 14. Use the J 8062 to compress the valve spring. Compress the spring
enough to clearly see the valve stem key grooves of the valve.
J-8062 15. Install the valve stem keys (1).
• Use grease to hold the keys in place.
• Ensure that the keys seat properly in the upper groove of the
valve stem.
16. Release and remove the J 8062.
17. Lightly tap the end of the valve stem with a plastic-faced hammer
to seat the keys.
635678 18. Install the cylinder head coolant hole plug (1) into the left cylinder
head.
19. Tighten the cylinder head coolant hole plug to 23 Nm (17 ft. lb.)
Oil Pump Disassemble NOTE! The oil pump pipe has a press fit into the oil pump. DO
NOT remove the pipe from the oil pump. The pipe and oil
pump are serviced as a complete assembly.
427935 1. Remove the oil pump driveshaft and retainer.
678107 4. Remove the drive gear and the driven gear. Match mark the gear
teeth for assembly.
678107 2. Coat the drive gear, the driven gear and the housing gear surfaces
with clean engine oil.
3. Install the drive gear and the driven gear into the pump body. Align
the matching marks on the gears. Install the smooth side of the
gear toward the pump cover.
678105 5. Install the oil pump cover bolts. Tighten the oil pump cover bolts to
12 Nm (106 in lb.).
6. Inspect the oil pump for smoothness of operation by turning the oil
pump driveshaft by hand.
CAUTION!
427935 7. Install the oil pump driveshaft and the new retainer.
Oil Pump Drive Clean and Inspect WARNING! Wear safety glasses
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
470659 14. Install and secure the ignition coil wiring harness into the two wir-
ing harness retainers.
15. Install the ignition coil wiring harness retainer bolts.
16. Tighten the ignition coil wiring harness retainer bolts to 12 Nm
(106 in lb.).
17. Connect the ignition coil wiring harness to the ignition coils, mak-
ing sure the connectors for cylinders one and three, and cylinders
six and eight are connected to the corresponding ignition coils.
18. Install the white wiring harness clip locks.
470760 5. Remove the throttle body nuts and the throttle body.
6. Remove and discard the throttle body gasket.
471023 7. Disconnect and remove the MAP sensor bolt and MAP sensor.
8. Inspect the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor seal for
damage.
3
WARNING! Wear safety glasses
5
4
2. Dry the intake manifold with compressed air.
3. Inspect the following:
• The intake manifold bolt holes (1) for cracks and/or damage.
Intake Manifold Assemble NOTE! Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
CAUTION!
17970 4. Install the fuel injectors, fuel rails, and associated wiring onto the
intake manifold.
5. Connect the fuel injection wiring harness.
6. Connect the fuel lines.
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
5 635640
• Rotate the pump shaft by hand and inspect for roughness of oper-
ation
• If the hub wobbles, is noisy or feels rough when rotated,
replace the water pump.
• The shaft and fan hub must turn straight and smoothly.
• Damage to threaded bolt holes (4)
• Damage to the fan mounting threads (5)
6. Install the water pump pulley.
NOTE! Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
7. Install the water pump pulley bolts using the J 41240 to prevent
water pump pulley rotation.
8. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (19 ft. lb.)
CAUTION!
3. Clean out the hole using compressed air with a shop rag wrapped
around the air spout to prevent aluminium chips from leaving the
hole.
4. Select the correct size tap, using the appropriate chart for the hole
being repaired.
5. Coat the tap and the hole with spray machining oil.
6. Tap the hole to the original depth. to clean the threads, reverse the
rotation of the tap periodically.
7. Use aluminium safe solvent to clean out all of the aluminium chips.
8. Apply compressed air, with a shop towel wrapped around the air
spout, to retain the chips forced out of the hole.
9. Tap the hole again to clean the threads. The tap should thread in
with little resistance.
10. Use aluminium safe solvent to clean out all of the aluminium chips.
11. Apply compressed air, with a shop towel wrapped around the air
spout, to retain the chips forced out of the hole.
12. Use a flashlight to confirm that all of the chips are removed from
the hole.
13. Continue to clean the hole until all of the aluminium chips are
cleared.
14. Install the Heli-coil insert as follows:
A. To determine the correct size installation tool and length insert,
refer to the appropriate picture and chart.
B. Screw the insert on the mandrel of the installation tool until the
driving tang is fully engaged in the driving contour.
C. Coat the insert with spray machining oil.
D. Install the insert as follows
i. Slide the prewinder over the mandrel and insert.
ii. Rotate the mandrel clockwise until 1 or 2 threads of the in-
sert are threaded into the prewinder.
iii. Place the insert in position on the threaded hole being re-
paired.
iv. Rotate the mandrel clockwise until the insert is flush with
the top surface of the threaded hole.
v. Remove the prewinder except when repairing cylinder head
bolts.
vi. Continue to install the insert until reaching the original
thread depth.
vii. Remove the mandrel.
H. Remove the driving tang from the thread insert as follows. The
tang must be removed to allow passage of the fastener through
the insert.
i. Place the square end of the punch, no chamfer, on the tang
after installation.
ii. Strike the punch sharply with the hammer. The tang will
break off at the notch.
3. Clean the hole using compressed air. Take appropriate steps to
assure that the chips are not blown into the engine.
Service Prior to Assembly • Dirt will cause premature wear of the rebuilt engine. Clean all
the components.
• Use the proper tools to measure the components when check-
ing for excessive wear. Components not within the manufac-
turer’s specification must be repaired or replaced.
• When the components are reinstalled into an engine, return the
components to their original location, position and direction.
• During assembly, lubricate all the moving parts with clean
engine oil (unless otherwise specified). This will provide initial
lubrication when the engine is first started.
Caution!
Use sealant sparingly. Excess sealant may come loose
and clog water passages and could cause engine damage.
2. Install the engine coolant hole plug into the block and tighten to 60
Nm (40 ft. lb.)
Caution!
Use sealant sparingly. Excess sealant may come loose
and clog oil galleys and could cause engine damage.
Caution!
Use sealant sparingly. Excess sealant may come loose
and clog oil galleys and could cause engine damage.
7. Tighten the tee to 30 Nm (22 ft. lb.)
Caution!
The front oil gallery plugs have a hex socket and are
drilled with an oil hole to lubricate the timing chain and
sprocket. Do not install in the rear oil gallery holes. An oil
leak will result and may cause engine damage.
9. Tighten the front oil gallery plugs to 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.).
471134 10. Apply sealant Volvo Penta P/N 1141570 or equivalent to the
threads of the oil gallery plugs.
11. Install the rear oil gallery plugs.
12. Tighten the rear oil gallery plugs to 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.).
471126 13. Apply sealant Volvo Penta P/N 1141570 or equivalent to the
threads of the engine block oil cooler hose fittings (with oil cooler).
14. Install the engine block oil cooler hose fittings (with oil cooler).
15. Tighten the engine block oil cooler hose fittings to 23 Nm (17 ft. lb.)
471081 16. Install the left knock sensor into the engine block.
17. Tighten the left knock sensor to 20 Nm (15 ft. lb.)
CAUTION!
471076 18. Install the right knock sensor into the engine block.
19. Tighten the right knock sensor to 20 Nm (15 lb. ft.).
CAUTION!
470568 20. Apply sealant Volvo Penta P/N 1141570 or equivalent to the
threads of the engine block coolant drain hole plugs.
21. Install the engine block coolant drain hole plugs.
22. Tighten the engine coolant drain hole plugs to 20 Nm (15 ft. lb.)
471118 23. Apply sealant GM P/N 12345493 or equivalent to the engine block
camshaft rear bearing hole.
471122 24. Install a NEW camshaft rear bearing hole plug to the proper depth.
471089 25. Apply sealant Volvo Penta P/N 1141570 or equivalent to the
threads of the oil gallery plug.
26. Install the oil gallery plug.
27. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lb.)
471041 1. Install the crankshaft upper bearings into the engine block. Apply
clean engine oil to the bearing surfaces.
471044 2. Install the crankshaft lower bearings into the crankshaft bearing
caps. Apply clean engine oil to the bearing surfaces.
CAUTION!
647705 4. Apply a 13 mm (0.500 in) light film of Volvo Penta P/N 1141649 or
equivalent to the rear bearing cap sealing face or to the rear bear-
13.0 mm ing cap channel of the engine block. Apply the sealant from the
(0.500”) center of the rear thrust bearing pocket to the edge of the channel.
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
4972 1. Inspect the engine block cylinder bore. Refer to Cylinder Boring
and Honing.
2. Inspect the piston/connecting rod assembly for damage. Refer to
Piston, Connecting Rod and Bearings Clean and Inspect.
J 8087
3. Use the J 8087 to measure the cylinder bore diameter. Refer to
Engine Block Clean and Inspect.
4. Measure the J 8087 with a micrometer and record the reading.
Piston Installation
639532 1. Coat the following components with clean engine oil:
• The piston
• The piston rings
• The cylinder bore
• The bearing surfaces
2. Install rubber fuel line onto the connecting rod bolts.
NOTE! The arrow on the top of the piston must face the front of
the engine block. When assembled, the flanges on the
connecting rod and cap should face to the front of the
block on the left bank and to the rear of the block on the
right bank.
639536 3. Install the piston, connecting rod and upper connecting rod bear-
ing through the top of the engine block.
5159 4. Install the J 8037 onto the piston and compress the piston rings.
5. Use the J 8037 and lightly tap the top of the piston with a wooden
hammer handle.
6. Hold the J 8037 firmly against the engine block until all of the pis-
ton rings have entered the cylinder bore.
639533 7. Use the rubber fuel line to guide the connecting rod onto the
crankshaft journal.
8. Remove the rubber fuel line.
639084 9. Install the connecting rod cap and lower connecting rod bearing.
NOTE! Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
NOTE! When installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, NEW
connecting rod nuts must be installed.
10. Install the new connecting rod nuts.
11. Tighten the connecting rod nuts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lb.) Using the J
36660-A, tighten the connecting rod nuts an additional 90
degrees.
677801o 12. Once the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been
installed, lightly tap each connecting rod assembly (parallel to the
crankpin) to make sure that they have side clearance.
13. Use a feeler gauge or a dial indicator to measure the side clear-
ance between the connecting rod caps. The connecting rod side
clearance should be 0.384-0.686 mm (0.0151-0.0270 in).
Camshaft Installation
471002 1. Lubricate the following components with clean engine oil, engine
supplement GM P/N 1052367 or equivalent:
• The camshaft lobes
• The camshaft bearing journals
• The camshaft bearings
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
CAUTION!
2 1
5 6
470803 6. Inspect the camshaft position sensor O-ring for cuts, cracks, tears
or any other damage. Replace the O-ring as needed.
7. Apply a light film of clean engine oil to the camshaft position sen-
sor O-ring.
8. Install the camshaft position sensor.
CAUTION!
635654 2. Install the new oil pan gasket into the pan groove.
3. Install the oil pan.
Caution!
Use new O-rings and gaskets when installing the dipstick
tube and fitting.
7. Tighten the oil pan depict tube fitting to 28 Nm (21 ft. lb.)
CAUTION!
Correct alignment of the oil pump drive and oil pump drive
shaft is critical. Make sure both components mate cor-
rectly, or engine damage may occur.
2. Line up the oil pump drive gear with the oil pump drive shaft.
3. Install the oil pump drive, making sure that the oil pump drive is
fully seated in the engine block.
4. Install the oil pump drive bolt.
5. Tighten the oil pump drive bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
Valve Lifter Installation NOTE! If a new camshaft is installed, replace all the valve lifters.
470996 1. Coat the valve lifter rollers with prelube, GM P/N 1052367 or
equivalent.
NOTE! If reusing the valve lifters, install in their original loca-
tions. The valve lifter guide retainer must contact all of the
valve lifter guides. If the valve lifter guide retainer is bent,
the valve lifter guide retainer must be replaced.
2. Install the valve lifters.
3. Install the valve lifter guides over the flats on the valve lifters, mak-
ing sure the rollers of the valve lifters are properly aligned with the
camshaft lobes.
470914 3. If not pre-applied to the new cylinder head bolts, apply sealer
Volvo Penta P/N 1141570 or equivalent to the cylinder head bolts.
NOTE! The long bolts are used in locations 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 14, 16 and 17. The medium length bolts are used in
locations 15 and 18. The short bolts are used in locations
4, 5, 12 and 13. The sealer must be applied to a minimum
of eight threads starting at the point of the cylinder head
bolt.
CAUTION!
Valve Rocker Arm and Push Rod NOTE! Be sure to keep parts in order. Parts must be put back
Installation from where they were removed.
470906 1. Apply sealer Volvo Penta P/N 1141570 or equivalent to the valve
rocker arm stud-to-cylinder head threads.
2. Install the push rod guides and valve rocker arm studs onto the
cylinder head.
3. Tighten the valve rocker arm studs to 50 Nm (37 ft. lb.)
470899 5. Coat the valve rocker arm and valve rocker arm ball bearing sur-
faces with prelube GM P/N 1052367 or equivalent.
6. Install the valve rocker arms, the valve rocker arm balls and the
valve rocker arm nuts.
7. Tighten the valve rocker arm nuts slowly, to 25 Nm (18 ft. lb.), while
guiding the tips of the rocker arms over the tips of the halves.
413867 2. Ensure the splash shield (2) snap fits between the cylinder heads
(1).
1
1302492 3. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in.) bead of Volvo Penta P/N 1141649 RTV
sealing compound (1) to the 4 engine block/cylinder head loca-
tions.
1302481 5. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in.) bead of Volvo Penta P/N 1141649 RTV
sealer or equivalent (1) onto the end seals at the 4 engine block/
cylinder head locations.
470779 6. Install the new intake manifold side gaskets onto the cylinder
heads.
470778 7. Ensure the intake manifold gasket tabs align with the hole in the
head gasket.
8. Ensure the intake manifold gasket tabs align with the slot in the
lower intake manifold seals.
640010 CAUTION!
Valve Rocker Arm Cover Installation NOTE! If the valve rocker arm cover gasket was removed from the
valve rocker arm cover, install a NEW valve rocker arm
cover gasket.
470890 1. Install the valve rocker arm cover with gasket.
2. Install the valve rocker arm cover bolts.
677858 3. Tighten the valve rocker arm cover bolts in sequence using two
7 1 4 passes.
Tighten
• Tighten the valve rocker arm cover bolts in sequence to 6 Nm
(54 in lb.) on the first pass.
• Tighten the valve rocker arm cover bolts in sequence to 12 Nm
5 3 2 6 (106 in lb.) on the final pass.
635640 4. Use J 41240 to hold the water pump pulley while tightening the
bolts.
470698 5. Place the water crossover gaskets and the water crossover in
position.
6. Install the water crossover bolts.
7. Tighten the water crossover bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lb.)
470692 8. Install the thermostat bypass hose clamps onto the thermostat
bypass hose.
9. Install the thermostat bypass hose.
NOTE! Properly position the bypass hose clamps to avoid water
pump pulley interference.
10. Position the thermostat bypass hose clamps.
23269 14. Reinstall the fuel cell and fuel cell bracket.
CAUTION!
22544 1. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces on both the riser and the
manifold.
2. Use spray on gasket remover to remove ALL traces of riser gas-
ket. Heavy scrapping with tools on gasket surfaces may gouge
surface, preventing proper seal.
3. Follow pre-cautions on can of gasket remover to prevent damage
to paint on manifold, riser or engine.
Caution!
470683A 1. Install the exhaust manifold studs into the cylinder head (if neces-
sary).
2. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs to 20 Nm (15 ft. lb.)
3. Install the NEW exhaust manifold gasket.
470666 8. Install the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and ignition coils.
NOTE! Fully install the spark plug wire by pushing on the
exposed end of the spark plug boot.
470630 1. Install NEW seals onto the dipstick tube fitting and hollow bolt.
CAUTION!
Be sure there are seals between the oil pan opening, the
dipstick cube and the hollow fitting and the cube.
2. Install the dipstick tube into the cube.
3. Install a NEW O-ring onto the dipstick tube fitting.
4. Install the dipstick tube fitting into the cube.
5. Install the dipstick tube bracket bolt to the engine block.
• Tighten the dipstick tube bracket bolt to 8 Nm (70 in lb.).
• Tighten the dipstick cube hollow bolt to 28 Nm (21 ft lb.).
6. Install the dipstick in the dipstick tube.
NOTE! Apply grease or clean engine oil to the inside of the crank-
shaft balancer or the end of the crankshaft, to prevent
galling during assembly.
CAUTION!
Apply the lubricant that comes with J 42845 each time the
tool is used. Failure to lubricate J 42845 may prevent the
balancer from installing completely.
4. Use the J 42845 to install the balancer.
CAUTION!
Installation
23549 1. Route the drive belt around all the pulleys except the idler pulley.
2. Install the breaker bar with hex head socket to the belt tensioner.
3. Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise to release tension.
4. Install the drive belt under the idler pulley.
5. Slowly release the tension on the breaker bar and allow the belt
tensioner to increase tension on the drive belt.
6. Remove the breaker bar and socket from the belt tensioner bolt.
7. Inspect the drive belt for proper installation and alignment.
33857 10. Connect the raw water inlet and outlet hoses.
Caution!
Ensure the raw water pump hoses are installed in the cor-
rect position. If the hoses are installed incorrectly and the
engine is operatied, the raw water pump impeller will be
damaged, and if left uncorrected, the engine will be dam-
aged.
49465 11. Install raw water pump holding bracket and screws.
Engine Prelube
471138 1. Remove the engine oil filter, fill with clean engine oil and reinstall.
2. Remove the oil pressuer/switch tee on the port side of the engine
block above the oil filter adapter housing.
3. Install the 1/4-18 NPT adapter GM P/N 509373.
863255 4. Install the flexible hose to the adapter and open the valve.
5. Pump the handle on the J 45299 to flow a minimum of 1-1.9 liters
(1-2 quarts) of engine oil. Observe the flow of oil through the flexi-
ble hose into the engine assembly.
6. Close the falve and remove the flexible hose and adapter from the
engine.
7. Reinstall the oil pressure/switch tee.
• Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lb.)
8. Top off the engine oil to the proper level using the dipstick as a
guide.
Caution!
Do not overfill with engine oil. Overfilling results in high
operating temperatures, foaming (air in oil), loss of power,
and overall reduced engine life.
Special Tools
14487
J 33049
J 3049-A
Camshaft Bearing
Hydraulic Lifter Remover
Service Set
3413
35463
J 7872
J 45059
Magnetic Base Dial
Angle Meter
Indicator
2014
48304
J 8001 J 41240
Dial Indicator Set Fan Clutch Wrench
3403
67136
J 41712
J 8037
Oil Pressure Sending
Piston Ring Compressor
Unit Socket
J 8062 J 42845
Valve Spring Compressor Crankshaft Balancer
(Cylinder Head Off) Installer
5110
642102
J 8087 J 42846
Cylinder Bore Crankshaft Protector
Checking Gauge Button
648906
35464
J 8358 J 42847
Carbon Removal Brush Flywheel Holding Tool
5112 642103
J 42849
J 9666
Crankshaft Rear
Valve Spring Tester
Seal Installer
642106
65325
J 22102
J 42851
Crankshaft Sprocket
Front Cover Oil Seal
Installer
3412
J 24270
J 43105
Cylinder Bore Ridge
Valve Stem Seal Installer
Reamer
648912
5116
J 43320
J 24420-C
Crankshaft Rear
Harmonic Balancer Puller
Seal Puller
62295
852797
J 35667-A
J45299
Cylinder Head Leakdown
Engine Pre-Lube
Tester
54577 355040
J 39345 J 43276
Thread Repair Kit Pilot Bearing Remover
J 43690 J 43690-100
Rod Bearing Clearence Rod Bearing Clearence
Checking Tool Checking tool - Adapter Kit
26998
J 22794
Spark Plug Port Adapter
Special tools used in this manual that begin with “J” are available on the
internet from Kent-Moore division of SPX Corporation:
Web: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .http://www.spxkentmoore.com.
Mail:
SPX Corporation
Kent-Moore
28635 Mound Road
Warren, MI 48092-3499
Toll Free US Phone Orders: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800-345-2233,
All other special tools used in this manual are available from your Volvo
Penta dealer/distributor. To locate a dealer visit us on the internet at:
http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/global/en-gb#.
Mail:
Volvo Penta of the Americas
1300 Volvo Penta Drive
Chesapeake, VA 23320-9810
Phone: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-757-436-2800
Fax: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-757-436-5158
NOTES
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Special Tools
Rod Holder 3854367-4
Thermometer J-5421
Loctite Primer
Safety Warnings
The hydraulic pump is mounted on the front of the engine and is belt
driven by the crankshaft pulley. The reservoir fill cap has a dipstick
attached.
23206
Pump Operation
1 5 4 6 7
2
3
4 DR3007
1
During normal operation, fluid is drawn into dual pump intake ports (1)
from the reservoir (2). The reservoir is supplied by a low pressure
return line (3) from the power steering oil cooler. The pump output is
through ports (4). The vanes (5) are held out against the pump bore by
pressure behind the vanes. The pump has sufficient output (6) to allow
quick boat maneuvers even at engine idle RPM. The pump output at
high RPM is limited to about 2.3 gallons per minute by a flow restric-
tion orifice (7).
9
8
DR3008
The pump has a metric output fitting. Use only a hose with a metric fit-
ting.
System Operation
No Steering Input - Steering Wheel
Not Turning
DR3508 When there is no steering input from the helm, the spring (1) keeps the
6 3 1 spool valve (2) centered. Fluid from the pump enters the control valve
through the pressure port (3), flows past both cylinder ports (4 and 5)
with little restriction, then through the return port (6) and back to the
5 2 reservoir in the power steering pump. There is a small amount of equal
4 force at both ends (7) and (8) of the cylinder and the cylinder does not
move.
With no steering input, the sterndrive is held in one position and the
boat moves in a constant turn or in a straight line.
7 8
force at both ends and stops moving. The steering system is then back
at the No Steering Input condition described previously.
The fluid (7) ahead of the piston is forced out of the cylinder through
outlet (5) into the valve, and through return port (6) back to the reser-
voir. Additional fluid is drawn out of the reservoir through the pressure
7 8
inlet (3) and (4) to the opposite side of the piston.
More steering effort is required since all of the power required to steer
the boat must be supplied by the operator, and additional force is
required to move the fluid through the system when the pump is not
operating.
Pump Removal
20497 1. Place an oil drain pan under pump. Disconnect high pressure hose
(1) and return hose (2) at pump. Do not lose O-ring on pressure
hose fitting. Secure hose ends in a raised position to prevent fluid
draining from hoses. Cap or tape ends of hoses to keep out dirt.
2 Drain pump completely before removing.
NOTE! Some engine models may have the return line secured with
1
a crimp style clamp. This type clamp is dsposable and
must be replaced with a worm screw type hose clamp dur-
ing reassembly.
20497
20847 2. Remove pump pulley using special tool Volvo Penta P/N 9995443.
20847
23284
20496A
20847 6. Remove pump pulley using Pulley Remover, Volvo Penta P/N
9995443, then remove bracket from pump.
7. Remove mounting screws that secure the bracket to the pump and
remove bracket.
20847
Pump Installation
1. Attach mounting bracket to pump.
20846 2. Attach pulley using Pulley Installer, Volvo Penta P/N 9995444-8.
20846
20509 6. Fill pump reservoir with Volvo Penta Power Trim/Tilt & Steering
Fluid. Bleed pump, hoses, and valve by turning pulley clockwise
(as viewed from front of engine) until reservoir no longer shows air
bubbles. Keep reservoir filled while purging air from system.
HOT
COLD
20509
1 Alternator
1
2 Power steering pump
5
3 Circulating water pump
6
4 Crankshaft
5 Belt tensioner
6 Idler Pulley
3
2
4
V-Belt Models Only 7. Install drive belt and adjust belt tension See “Power Steering
Pump Belt Adjustment” on page 187. Do not pry against pump res-
ervoir while tightening belt.
Hydraulic Fluid
NOTE!
Checking Fluid Level 1. Run engine and rotate steering wheel lock-to-lock for a reasonably
long period of time to warm up steering fluid, then shut engine off.
Remove reservoir filler cap and check if fluid level is at “HOT”
mark on dipstick.
Caution!
Caution!
1. With engine “OFF,” turn helm all the way to port. Add power steer-
ing fluid to bring fluid level to “COLD” mark on dipstick.
2. Start engine, run momentarily and shut off engine. Recheck fluid
level and fill to “COLD” mark. Repeat this step as necessary until
system no longer requires additional fluid.
4. Returning fluid with air in it will often be in the form of foam and
will have a light tan or red appearance. Maintain fluid level high
enough so foam is not drawn into pump inlet. All air must be elimi-
nated from fluid before normal steering action can be obtained. If
excessive foam accumulates in reservoir it must be removed, or
let unit stand for an hour and repeat steps above.
5. After all air has been purged, return wheel to centered position.
Continue to run engine for several minutes and then shut engine
off.
7. Water test the boat to make sure the steering functions normally
and is free from noise.
V- Belt Models
16067 Caution!
16067
The belts used for the power steering pump are heavy-duty. DO NOT
replace with automotive belts.
24278
Steering Cylinder
23206A The steering cylinder assembly is a combination power cylinder and
1 control valve. A piston rod clevis (1) provides the attachment to the
2
steering arm and steering cable ram. The steering cable casing
attaches to the threaded valve (2).
23206A
Cylinder Removal
20572 1. Turn helm to port full lock position. Remove the cotter pin (1) and
2 the steering cable pin (2).
2. Hold steering tube with wrench. Loosen steering cable anchor nut
and pull steering cable out of valve.
20504 3. Remove cotter pin, then pull pin out of clevis and steering arm.
23275 4. Remove both hose fittings from the valve. Raise hoses and cover
the ends to keep out dirt.
Caution!
23275
20503 5. Remove cotter pins (1) and loosen both anchor screws (2) until
2 steering cylinder assembly can be removed.
1
20503
Cylinder Servicing
20580 1. Pry out steering pivot bushings if they are to be replaced. If neces-
sary they may be carefully drilled in two places with a 1/16 in. (1,5
mm) drill bit and then removed.
20580
20579 3. The cylinder rod should be wrapped with heavy paper or paste-
3854367 board and held in a vise with Rod Holder, Volvo Penta P/N
1 3854367-4. To remove unscrew the clevis (1).
4. To reinstall clevis, coat threads with Volvo Penta locking fluid P/N
1161053 and tighten to 23-28 ft. lb. (31-38 N•m).
20579
Cylinder Installation
20576 1. Install anchor screws flush with inside of inner transom bracket.
20576
Caution!
Filling the bushing pockets full with grease can cause the
screws to hydraulically lock and break the transom plate
when tightened.
31842
4. Install cotter pins through holes (1) in transom bracket from tran-
som side. Spread ends of cotter pins to secure.
Caution!
1
Do not move cylinder rod if cylinder contains any fluid. A
dangerous spray of fluid may discharge from the ports.
20574
23275
20504 6. Pull steering arm (3) into hydraulic cylinder clevis. Align holes and
2 install large pin (2) from top of arm. Secure large pin by install-
ing and spreading ends of cotter pin (3).
3 1 20504A
Cable Installation
31837 1. Turn the steering wheel to fully extend the steering cable ram to
its maximum extension. Lubricate the full length of the steering
cable ram with Volvo Penta Grease.
31837
20570 2. Retract steering cable ram and insert ram through valve.
20570
20506 3. Hold steering cable anchor nut back on cable casing to make cer-
tain the steering cable is completely seated in end of valve.
20506
20606 4. While holding steering cable tight against valve, thread steering
cable anchor nut onto valve until snug.
20606
20605 5. Hold cable tube with a 22 mm wrench on the flat. Attach a crow-
foot wrench at 90° to a torque wrench and tighten the steering
cable anchor nut to 120 in. lb. (14 N•m).
20605
20507 6. Align cable ram with steering cylinder clevis and install small pin
from top of clevis. Secure small pin by installing and spreading
ends of cotter pin.
7. Fill system with fluid and remove all air. See “Purging Air From
Steering System” on page 186.
20507
Lubrication
31837 Lubricate the steering ram with Volvo Penta Grease every 50 hours or
once a season, which ever comes first.
31837
Hoses
Caution!
The pump output fitting has metric threads. Do not attach a hose with
SAE threads to the pump fitting.
After connecting power steering hoses, make sure that there’s ample
clearance between the hoses and drive belts and other components.
Hoses installed out of position may rub during operation and be dam-
aged.
System Diagnosis
Complaints of faulty steering are frequently the result of problems
other than the steering cylinder assembly or pump. Conditions such as
hard or loose steering, or vibrations, are often related to such factors
as the drive belt; pump and cylinder mounting; fluid level; or incorrect
installation of the steering cable. These factors should be checked and
corrected before disassembling or replacing parts of the steering sys-
tem.
System Checks Many factors affect power operation of the steering system. Some of
the most common problem areas are:
• Fluid level.
• Loose or worn drive belt, or oily belt.
• Steering cable jammed against something in boat at stern.
• Steering cable too short or steering cable too long.
• Loosely mounted components.
• Loose pump pulley.
DR3026
21085A Remove the steering tie bar from the port tiller arm. Loosen jam nut
4 3 5 (3). Turn jam nut out 1/16 to 3/32 in. (1,59 to 2,38 mm) as required,
and screw in steering tie bar end. Retighten the jam nut.
Caution!
21085
Threads of the port tie bar must be visible through the
inspection hole (5) to insure adequate thread engagement
between the rod and tube. Failure to ensure proper threads
engagement could result in component failure resulting in
possible loss of steering control.
SYSTEM NOISE:
"Hissing" sound. Some noise exists in all power "None; a slight ""hiss"" is normal
steering systems. "Hiss" may be and in no way affects steering.
expected when turning the steer-
ing wheel, particularly at low
speed.
Rattle or chuckle. Steering system looseness. Check cable nut and cylinder
pivot points for wear or loose-
ness. Replace bushings if neces-
sary.
Groan Low fluid level. Find and repair leak. Fill reservoir
and bleed system.
Pump growl Incorrect steering cable adjust- Adjust cable per procedure. Elimi-
ment. Cable to boat interference. nate interference.
Whine in pump. Pump shaft bearing scored. Flush system, replace pump.
SYSTEM OPERATION:
Excessive wheel kickback or Steering cable attachment loose. Replace pin. Tighten steering
loose steering (not boat wander). cable anchor nut.
Steering wheel surges or jerks Loose pump belt. Adjust tension to specification.
when turning with engine running,
especially during slow speed Air in fluid. Fill reservoir, find and repair leak.
operation. Bleed system.
Table 1:
Momentary increase in effort Pump belt slipping. Tighten or replace belt. If oily, fix
when turning wheel fast to right or leak.
left.
Low fluid level. Fill reservoir and bleed system.
Notes
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1. If the remote control shift and throttle cables are installed in the
remote controls, proceed to Check Remote Control Shift Cable
Stroke.
2. If the remote control shift and throttle cables have not been
installed, the following procedure will permit you to order the cor-
rect length remote control shift and throttle cables.
3. Measure the proposed route of the remote control shift and throttle
cables. All bends must have a radius greater than 6 inches (15,2
cm).
• Remote control shift cable: Add (A)+(B) plus 20 in. (50.8 cm),
round up to next cable length.
• Remote control throttle cable: Add (A)+(B)+(C) plus 4 in. (10.1
cm), (C is to center of throttle arm pin). Round up to next cable
length.
Caution!
When removing shift and throttle cables from the packing
D
A
box, DO NOT bend the cables tighter than a 6 inch radius.
F
C
E
B DR4939
36560
INCHES 1 2 3
36561
3. Mark cable core wire at end of casing with control in the neutral
detent position.
36562
Installation of SAE Cables to NOTE! If the throttle cable is attached to the throttle arm and
Engine/Drive anchor block, remove it from both. The throttle cable must
be disconnected from the throttle arm prior to shift cable
1. Note position of small seal and large seal on the shift cable,
Remove and retain jam nut, small seal, and large seal from the
shift cable.
34045
2. Apply a light coat of Volvo Penta Grease to the end of the remote
control shift cable casing. Slide shift cable through shift cable tube
until it appears on the outside of the transom.
34044A
47553
47554
5. Slide shift cable through pivot housing and sterndrive. Slide clamp
in fully, engaging the shift cable anchor groove. Tighten clamp
screw securely.
34038
47131
47132
47133
47134A
11. Reinstall rear cover and secure with three original screws. Tighten
screws to 108-132 in. lb. (12-15 N•m).
47557
34751
20593 4. The engine throttle cable anchor block bracket is located star-
board and aft on the intake manifold.
5. Install open end of trunnion in anchor block. Install screw in anchor
block and position throttle cable assembly in selected set of holes.
Locknut must be against the anchor bracket, tighten it securely.
6. Throttle arm connector must have a minimum of 9 full turns or 1/4
in. (6,4 mm) of throttle cable thread engagement. Install throttle
arm connector onto the throttle cable. Pull connector forward to
remove all end play from throttle cable, then turn the connector in
until hole aligns with the “push-to-close” or “pull-to-close” throttle
arm stud.
NOTE! If throttle arm connector hole cannot be adjusted to align
with the throttle arm, check for proper cable installation in
the remote control box.
7. Install connector onto appropriate throttle arm stud. Install washer
and cotter pin, and secure by spreading end of cotter pin. Tighten
locknut against connector.
Mechanical 1. With the boat in water and the remote control in NEUTRAL, turn
the ignition key to the start position. The engine should start.
2. Disengage the remote control handle and move it into the FOR-
WARD warm-up position. The engine should start.
3. Disengage the remote control handle and move it into the
REVERSE warm-up position. Again the engine should start. Move
the remote control handle back into NEUTRAL.
4. Move the remote control handle to the FORWARD gear position.
The engine should NOT start. Move the handle to the REVERSE
gear position. Again the engine should NOT start.
5. If the engine starts when the remote control handle is in either the
FORWARD or REVERSE gear position, replace the neutral start
switch. Refer to the procedures in Disassembly of Remote Control
to replace the neutral safety switch.
20593 1. Remove cotter pin and flat washer from throttle arm.
2. Loosen anchor retainer nut and rotate retainer away from cable
trunnion. Remove throttle cable from throttle arm and anchor
bracket.
1. Remove drive’s rear cover. Remove cotter pin (1) and flat washer
from anchor pin (3). Remove jam nut (2) from shift cable core wire.
1 3
47127
2. Remove anchor pin from bell crank slot. Unscrew anchor pin from
shift cable core wire.
47133
3. Loosen screw and slide retainer out of shift cable anchor groove.
Pull the shift cable from drive and transom bracket cable tube.
34038
Description
Raw Water Cooled Engines
635691 The circulating pump is mounted on the front of the cylinder block. It
1 has a pulley bolted to the pump shaft hub at its forward end. This in
6 turn is driven by means of a belt from the crankshaft pulley. The pump
shaft and bearing assembly is pressed in the water pump housing.
2 The bearing is permanently lubricated during manufacture and sealed
to prevent loss of lubricant and entry of dirt. The pump is sealed
against coolant leakage by a non-adjustable seal assembly pressed
into the pump housing.
5
Cooling water for the engine is picked up at the water intakes on both
4 sides of the lower gearcase. Water is pulled upward through the lower
gearcase until it enters a water tube that transfers it to the upper gear
3 housing.
Water is pulled through the upper gear housing water passage where
it meets a nipple and hose attached to the pivot housing. Water is
routed through the transom mount assembly to a tube that’s mounted
on the inside of the gimbal housing. From this tube the water is drawn
through a supply hose that’s connected to the inside nipple of the sup-
ply pump. Water exits the outside nipple of the supply pump under
pressure and carried through a hose to the inlet nipple of the thermo-
stat housing.
The water is now carried downward through the thermostat housing
where it enters the flexible hose which attaches to the inlet pipe of the
circulating pump. This inlet pipe is a part of the pump cover and feeds
the coolant into a low pressure area located at the axis of the impeller.
Vanes on the rotating impeller cause the coolant to be thrown outward
and into the cylinder block.
The cooling water flows rearward through the water jacket which sur-
rounds each cylinder and extends below the lower limit of piston ring
travel. After flowing the full length of the cylinder block, the water is
forced upward through two passages and into the cylinder head(s).
The water now flows forward in the cylinder head(s) to cool the com-
bustion chamber areas.
At the forward end of the cylinder head(s), the water enters the ther-
mostat housing. If the water within the block is sufficiently warmed up,
the thermostat will be open and a portion of the water will be pumped
upward past the thermostat. The remainder will be returned via the
flexible hose to the water pump for recirculation within the engine. The
water which was pumped upward past the thermostat will enter the
hose(s) connected to the thermostat housing outlet(s) and travel to the
exhaust manifolds.
At this point the water flows rearward through the manifold passages
and into the high-rise elbow. All of the water that enters the high-rise
elbow is mixed with the exhaust gases prior to entering the exhaust
pipe(s) and hose(s). This mixture of exhaust gases and water then
enters the exhaust passages of the gimbal housing, pivot housing and
sterndrive where it is discharged under water.
In the event the engine cooling water is cold, as in first starting up, the
thermostat will be closed and will not allow any of the water to pass
through for eventual discharge overboard. Instead, the water will be
carried via the flexible hose back to the circulating pump for recircula-
tion within the block. While the water within the block is recirculating,
the supply pump is pumping water to the block.
Since this water is not able to enter the cylinder block, it is necessary
to provide a method of discharge. This is provided by the bypass pas-
sage within the thermostat housing. If this were not provided, the
resulting water pressure would be enough to force the thermostat off
its seat, resulting in a greatly increased warm-up period.
Closed Cooling Engines The closed cooled engine is split into two halves by a heat exchanger,
a raw water side and a closed cooled side of the heat exchanger. The
heat exchanger transfers heat removed from the closed cooled side of
the system to the raw water side which is pumped overboard through
the exhaust.
Raw Water Side
Raw water is supplied to the heat exchanger by means of an impeller
type pump (raw water supply pump). The raw water supply pump is
mounted on the engine crankshaft. During low speed operation the
impeller functions as a positive displacement pump. At higher speeds
it functions as a combination centrifugal and positive displacement
pump. The shape of the housing and/or liner cause an eccentric action
of the impeller blades during engine operation. During periods of high
speed operation, the resistance of the water on its way through the
pump is sufficient to prevent the ends of the impeller blades from mak-
ing contact and following the inside perimeter of the pump housing.
The blades merely flex in toward the center of the impeller to perform
as a combination centrifugal and positive displacement pump.
Raw water for the heat exchanger is picked up at the water intakes on
both sides of the lower gearcase. Water is pulled upward through the
lower gearcase until it enters a water tube that transfers it to the upper
gear housing.
Water from the raw water pump is supplied to the heat exchanger and
is circulated through several channels inside the heat exchanger at
which point it exits through flexible hoses to the exhaust manifolds.
At this point the water flows rearward through the exhaust manifold
passages and up into the high-rise elbow. All of the water that enters
the high-rise elbow is mixed with the exhaust gases prior to entering
the exhaust pipe(s) and hose(s). This mixture of exhaust gases and
water then enters the exhaust passages of the gimbal housing, pivot
housing and sterndrive where it is discharged under water.
Closed Cooling Side
The closed cooling side of the heat exchanger contains the water and
antifreeze mixture and transfers engine heat from the coolant to the
raw water circulated through the exchanger.
The closed cooling side of the heat exchanger flows through the
engine circulation pump. The engine circulating pump is mounted on
the front of the cylinder block. It has a pulley bolted to the pump shaft
hub at its forward end and is driven by a belt from the crankshaft pul-
ley. The pump shaft and bearing assembly are pressed in the water
pump housing. The bearing is permanently lubricated during manufac-
ture and sealed to prevent loss of lubricant and entry of dirt. A non-
adjustable seal assembly pressed into the pump housing seals the
pump against coolant leakage.
The coolant flows rearward from the circulating pump through the cool-
ing jacket, which surrounds each cylinder and extends below the lower
limit of piston ring travel. After flowing the full length of the cylinder
block, the coolant is forced upward through two passages and into the
cylinder head(s). The water now flows forward in the cylinder head(s)
to cool the combustion chamber areas.
At the forward end of the cylinder head(s), the coolant enters the
intake manifold and the thermostat housing. If the coolant within the
block is sufficiently warmed up, the thermostat will be open and a por-
tion of the coolant will be pumped upward past the thermostat. The
remainder will be returned via the flexible hose to the circulating pump
for re-circulation within the engine. The coolant, which was pumped
upward past the thermostat, will enter the Heat Exchanger to transfer
engine heat to the raw water side of the cooling system. At this point
the process starts over.
Air or exhaust gas entering cooling a. Procedure - Replace water hose between thermostat housing
water: and the supply pump with clear plastic hose. Operate unit in
test tank or boat in water at RPM at which overheat occurs.
NOTE! If operating unit in test tank, run motor in neutral. Some
test tanks may not have sufficient water volume to allow
running engine in gear without creating turbulence. This
can be picked up by the water intake and misconstrued as
evidence of a cooling problem.
Insufficient water supply: a. Procedure - Disconnect water supply hose from transom
bracket at thermostat housing. Operate engine at specified idle
RPM. Hold end of hose level with the top of the flame arrestor.
b. Results and Conclusions - A 1 inch (2,5 cm) head of water
discharge, water supply is good. If less than 1/2 inch (1.2 cm),
look for source of water loss.
c. Check for - Blocked intake screens; damaged impeller hous-
ing O-ring or impeller plate gasket; broken or worn impeller;
defective pivot housing water passage O-ring or water drain
screw seal; loose pivot housing-to-gimbal housing water hose
clamps.
Engine head gasket leakage a. Procedure - Allow engine to cool. Replace water hose(s)
between thermostat housing and exhaust manifolds) with clear
plastic hose. Operate unit at RPM at which overheat occurs.
b. Results and Conclusions - No bubbles evident, head gas-
kets not leaking. Bubbles evident, head gaskets leaking.
c. Check for - Cylinder compression using appropriate tester,
water in engine oil, water in cylinders, spark plugs wet with
water.
Thermostat
Supply Pump
33857 Removal
1. Drain engine, refer to Draining Engine Block or Exhaust Manifold
on page 214.
2. Loosen hose clamps and remove hoses from supply pump. Note:
The upper hose is the inlet hose.
33857
49465
Impeller Removal
49466
49467
49468
Cleaning and Inspection 1. Clean all parts with solvent and blow dry thoroughly.
2. Clean sealing surfaces.
3. Inspect impeller housing wear, and housing for cracks and distor-
tion caused by freezing. Replace if necessary.
4. Inspect impeller; if blades are set in a bent position, cracked or
broken, or show flat instead of rounded edges on the housing con-
tact surfaces, replace the impeller.
5. Check bearings for smooth operation.
Impeller Installation
49470
49471 2. Apply a light coat of Volvo Penta Grease to a new O-ring. Install
the O-ring onto the pulley and shaft assembly.
49471
49466 3. Install pump and secure with four screws. Tighten screws to 19-24
in. lb. (2,2-2,8 N•m).
49466
49465 4. Orient pump assembly. Install bracket and secure with screws.
Tighten screws to 20-25 ft. lb. (27-34 N•m).
5. Attach the inlet hose to upper nipple and the outlet hose to the
lower nipple. Tighten hose clamps securely.
49465
1
Caution!
Do not run the engine during the flushing procedure.
Water is not supplied to the raw water pump and the pump
impeller will be damaged.
2. Turn the fresh water supply on and flush the engine with fresh
water for 5 minutes to ensure the drain ports are open.
3. Turn off the fresh water supply and disconnect the garden hose
from the engine flush connector. Lower the engine flush hose
below the engine level and let drain.
4. After all of the water has drained out, reattach the hose cap and
place back in original location.
5. Remove drain plugs from the exhaust manifold(s) and let drain
completely. Reinstall the drain plug(s) and tighten.
Caution!
If a garden hose with fresh water supply is unavailable,
you must remove the hose nipple(s) from the engine to
drain the engine block. To ensure all water is drained,
clear the drain hole with a piece of wire. After the engine is
drained reinstall the hose nipples and flush adapter as
removed. The exhaust manifolds are drained as described
previously
Caution
Ensure there is sufficient antifreeze in the closed side of
the cooling system to protect the engine for the antici-
pated temperatures. Follow the antifreeze manufacturers
instructions for proper water/antifreeze ratios.
Caution!
Be sure that all water is drained from the engine. If no
water drains when the petcocks are opened, remove the
petcocks and use a piece of wire to clear any obstructions
from the drain hole. Failure to drain all the water from the
engine may result in engine damage during freezing tem-
peratures.
start the engine, to clear the water from the pump. Reinstall the
hoses and secure the clamps in the same orientation as removed.
Caution!
Failure to connect the raw water pump hoses in the cor-
rect orientation may damage the raw water pump impeller.
1. Loosen and slide hose clamps back. Remove hoses from the
pump and drain.
2. Crank the engine no more than 2 seconds (DO NOT START) to
expel any water trapped in water pump. Reattach hoses.
33857
Thermostat Replacement
23271 7. Reconnect the water hoses to the thermostat housing and tighten
the hose clamps securely.
B
20
5
19
D
6
9
8 4
7
3
1
D
DRC6252
19
20
16
18
17
A
22
13
12
11
15
8
17
A
13
NOTES
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Safety Warnings
Before working on any part of the engine, read the Safety
section at end of this manual.
Proper installation is important for the safe, reliable oper-
ation of all mechanical products. The procedures we rec-
ommend and describe in these instructions are effective
methods to be followed when removing or installing the
engine. Some of these methods require the use of tools
specially designed for the purpose. The special tools
should be used when and as recommended.
Engine Removal
NOTE! Before removing engine, check engine height. See Deter-
mining Minimum Engine Height.
Check engine clearance between front of engine and engine compart-
ment bulkhead prior to starting work. If clearance is less than 6 in.
(15,2 cm), the sterndrive must be removed to disengage U-joint shaft
from engine coupler. See Sterndrive and Transom Bracket Service
Manual.
When engine clearance is more than 6 in. (15.2 cm), the engine can
be pulled forward to disengage the U-joint shaft from the flywheel cou-
pler, and be removed from the engine compartment.
Warning!
To prevent possible fire and explosion caused by ignition
of fuel vapors which may be present in the engine com-
partment, remove the positive and negative cables from
the battery.
23339
Disconnect boat fuel line at the fuel filter inlet. Seal end of fuel line and
inlet opening.
29830B
31461
29790
23242
1. Remove cotter pin and flat washer (1) from throttle arm.
1 2. Loosen anchor retainer nut and rotate retainer away from cable
trunnion. Remove throttle cable from throttle arm and anchor
2 bracket.
21159
31561
Loosen clamp and pull water supply hose off transom bracket water
tube.
31467
31444
2. Remove and retain both lock nuts (1) and both flat washers (2)
from rear engine mounts.
2
1
2912
29797
33962
Installation
1. Coat a new seal with 3M Scotch Grip Rubber Adhesive 1300 and
place in transom bracket groove.
2. Apply Volvo Penta Gasket Sealing Compound to the four exhaust
pipe mounting screws.
33970
33962
Engine Installation
Caution!
Do not use an impact wrench or power driving tool to
install the lock nuts onto the studs.
2912
29797
3850609
47547
18568
Position and tighten all hose clamps securely between ribs of exhaust
hose(s) as shown.
Caution!
DO NOT install hose clamps in expanded area of hose(s).
Cooling will be restricted and engine damage will occur.
31561
Connect Throttle Cable NOTE! Position remote control handle in NEUTRAL, propeller
should rotate freely. Turn propeller shaft and shift into the
forward gear detent position, then pull handle HALFWAY
BACK towards NEUTRAL. This positions the control for
proper throttle adjustment. Failure to follow this proce-
dure can result in “hard shifting” into gear.
34751
DR4977
4. Install connector onto throttle arm. Install washer and cotter pin,
and spread cotter pin prongs. Tighten jam nut against connector.
For throttle and shift cable adjustment procedures, See “Installation of
Shift and Throttle Cables” on page 197.
21159
1. Slide hose clamp onto water inlet hose. Lightly lubricate inside of
water inlet hose and push hose onto water inlet tube.
31467
24207
31472
23340
23339
23337
23338
31461
29790
Warning!
Ensure cable is routed to prevent cutting or chafing on
any sharp or hot object. This could result in an electrical
short, and contribute to fire and explosion in the engine
compartment.
9. Apply a light coat of Volvo Penta Grease grease around large
engine plug.
10. Slide hose clamp over large engine receptacle. Align the two large
23242
terminals on plug and receptacle and press together. Slide hose
clamp over receptacle and tighten securely.
11. All switches must be in the “OFF” position prior to connect-
ing battery cables to the battery. Be sure polarity is observed;
positive (+) cable to the positive terminal, and negative (-) cable to
the negative terminal.
12. Attach boat’s fuel supply hose to fuel filter canister. On EFI models
connect to the Fuel Cell. Tighten connection securely. Check for
fuel leaks when testing engine, and repair any leaks that might
occur.
29830B
2. Unscrew two screws and washers, then lift mount assembly off
transom plate.
6678
Disassembly
1. Hold square nut and remove screw. Mount assembly will break
down into components shown. Pay particular attention to the two
mount washers; their thickness, shape (concave or flat), and posi-
tion in the assembly (above or below the rubber mount).
16348
Assembly 1. Slide lower washer onto mount bolt; make sure you choose the
correct washer (as determined during the mount disassembly) for
this position. Insert bolt into bottom (flat) side of rubber mount
assembly, and install remaining washer and square nut. Do not
tighten nut at this time.
NOTE!If top and bottom washers are not installed in their origi-
nal positions, mount may transmit excessive engine vibra-
tions into boat and cause undesirable operating
conditions.
2. Turn mount assembly upside down and clamp square nut in vise.
Rotate rubber mount until mounting holes are positioned at 90° to
any side of square nut. Hold mount in this position and tighten
center bolt to 44-52 ft. lb. (60-71 N•m).
NOTE! If 90° relationship between nut and mounting holes is not
maintained, slot of engine mount pad cannot engage rear
mount during installation.
6680
Installation
6677
12212
B A
NOTES
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Part A
Marine Products and Safety of People Who Use Them . . . . . . . . . S-2
Sterndrive Shift System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-3
Sterndrive Throttle Control System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-4
Sterndrive Steering System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-5
Sterndrive Fuel, Electrical System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-7
Part B
Marine Products and Safety of People Who Fix Them . . . . . . . . . S-11
Handling Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-11
Handling Lead Acid Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-12
Gasoline! Handle with Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-13
Hazardous Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-14
Safety
S-1
Part A - Marine Products and safety of
People Who Use Them
Enjoyable boating is the goal of people who design and build marine products. To reach this goal, manufacturers are
careful to make sure...
Install accessories. . .
This section talks about safe boating and how you can help keep it safe. Some things you may know
. . . but others you may not.
First!
A word about fasteners . . . plain . . . special . . . all screws, nuts, washers and bolts.
Don't substitute unless you know they are the same in all characteristics.
Second!
Special locking screws and nuts are often used to attach steering, and remote control components to
the sterndrive.
When you remove any part from the sterndrive, keep track of special screws and nuts. Don't mix with
other parts
When reassembling the sterndrive, use only the special screws and nuts intended to hold steering, and
control cables, plus related parts.
Service with parts of known quality that meet Marine Industry (BIA/ABYC) Standard.
S-2 Safety
Sterndrive Shift System
If . . . Neutral If . . . Forward
Forward
or
Reverse
Reverse
How Can Loss of Shift Control be Minimized? In pre-delivery inspection and when servicing . . .
Test your work. Don't guess. Make sure propeller does what the operator wants and
nothing else.
Safety
S-3
Sterndrive Throttle Control System
If operator cannot slow the engine to idle RPM and shift into neutral, (stop propeller), operator could panic and lose control
of boat.
How Can Loss of Throttle Control be Minimized? In pre-delivery inspection and when servicing . . .
Test your work. Don't guess. Make sure engine throttle response is smooth.
Make sure full throttle operating RPM can be reached so operator won't overload engine
S-4 Safety
Sterndrive Steering System
must be lubricated
. . . if steering system comes apart, boat would turn suddenly and circle . . . passengers and/or operator
may be thrown into water and could be hit.
. . . if steering jams, operator may not be able to avoid obstacles. Operator could panic.
. . . if steering is loose, operator may not be able to maintain a true course, and could result in loss of
boat control.
Safety
S-5
How Can Loss of Steering Control be Minimized?
In pre-
use steering components which meet marine industry (ABYC) standards . . .
delivery Read, understand, and follow manufacturer's instructions.
inspection Assemble parts and make adjustments carefully . . .
and when Closely follow the warnings marked with ...
servicing Keep parts moving freely . . . lubricate parts as soon as shown in manuals
Use bolts, nuts, and washers supplied with steering attachment kits
When power assisted or mechanical steering systems are used, check to uncover possible trouble!
or this . . . or ? ? ?
can put stress on steering components. Look for . . .
Cracked parts
Bent parts
Loose fasteners
Replace damaged parts. If weakened, parts could fail later . . . on the water
. . . when least expected.
S-6 Safety
Sterndrive Fuel and Electrical Systems
What's Important?
When boating, fuel leaking in the engine compartment could be ignited by a spark from a loose wire
connection, or a damaged or deteriorated electrical component.
Do not substitute fuel or electrical parts with other parts which may look the same. These parts are
designed and manufactured to meet special U. S. Coast Guard safety regulations to prevent fire and
explosion.
If you work on marine engines, you must understand these U.S. Coast Guard requirements. If you don't have them, write
to . . .
---------
---------
---------
National Technical Information Service
Springfield, Virginia 22161
. . . and ask for copies of:
Safety
S-7
Always use replacement parts specified by the manufacturer. They meet the U.S. Coast Guard require-
ments. Most automotive parts do not, especially electrical components that must meet ignition protec-
tion requirements of the U.S. Coast Guard regulations.
Torn Boots!
Wires Cracked!
Using parts which meet U.S. Coast guard requirements is only half the job. The other half is your job . . .
It's time for replacement BEFORE sparks and/or fuel leaks occur.
Replace parts carefully. Make sure nuts and bolts are tight especially when they anchor electrical wires
(to prevent sparking). If lock washers are specified - use them. No short cuts or missing parts with
either of these CRITICAL safety related systems.
When refueling, always ground fuel nozzle to the inlet fitting on the boat to prevent the buildup of
electrostatic sparks. If you use a funnel, make sure it's metal and ground the fuel nozzle to the funnel.
S-8 Safety
Follow "Starting Procedure" outlined in the operator's manual.
Always make sure there are no gasoline fumes in the engine compartment before starting the
engine. Open the compartment and use your nose. Don't gamble.
Backfire flame arrestor must be in place and securely attached to the air intake.
If loose, damaged, or altered, an engine "backfire" may pass through the flame arrestor assembly into the engine compart-
ment. If fumes are present in compartment, fire and explosion could result.
Safety
S-9
Summing Up
Now you know some things that can take the joy out of enjoyable boating.
S-10 Safety
Part B - Marine Products and Safety of
People* Who Fix Them
Part A talked about safe boating and how you, the mechanic, can help keep it safe for the boater. But what about you?
Mechanics can be hurt while . . .
Servicing boats
Servicing sterndrives
Troubleshooting problems
Testing their work
DR3471 DR3469
Make sure shop aids have extra capacity — and keep them in good repair!
The engine compartment cover is a guard. When you remove the cover / guard to work on the engine, remember:
Loose clothing (open shirt sleeves, neckties), long hair, jewelry (rings, watches, bracelets), hands,
arms, belts can be caught by moving belts or spinning pulleys
Handle high voltage ignition components carefully. They can shock you and may cause you to recoil
into moving parts.
Two people working together on a running engine must look out for each other. Never, ever, turn the key to start the
engine before signalling to your partner. (He may be leaning over the engine with his hands on a belt, or a "hot" electri-
cal part, near the propeller, etc.) Remove the key(s) while working on the engine to prevent accidental starting.
Safety
S-11
Exhaust gasses of running engines contain carbon monoxide. . . you can't see it. . . you can't smell it. . .
you can't taste it. . . but it's there whenever an engine runs. . . and it's deadly!
When you smell the other gasses in the exhaust, you are inhaling carbon monoxide. Run engines only in well ventilated
areas.
Grinding Sprayed
Cleaners,
Paints
Chiseling
(steel on steel)
(Tip: Use plastic or brass type hammers.
They don't chip off as easily as steel hammers.)
If spilled or splashed on
any part of body..
S-12 Safety
Never yank cables off
Battery gas is explosive! battery posts. . . it's a sure
While charging or discharging, way to make lots of
remember. . . sparks. . .surrounded by battery gas
No Smoking
No Flames
No Sparks
You're sure to make sparks Remove charger plug from wall socket
Then. . .
and serious burns are
possible. Take charger cable off battery posts
Store properly . . .
Fill portable tanks outside boat to prevent spillage in
boat
Use fuel for fuel . . . not for a solvent
If fumes are smelled (in shop, basement, garage), immediately:
Store in sturdy, Put out open flames, cigarettes, sparking devices
sealed gas can Wipe up spill or leak; get towels, rags outside fast
. . .and . . . Check lowest area for fumes; open doors or win-
keep outside dows
Safety
S-13
Know items in and around repair area which can ignite gasoline fumes . . . Control them if fumes are smelled.
Hazardous Products
Remember: Little children are very curious and will try to taste everything, so . . .
S-14 Safety
10-2004
®
English