J. Appl Cosmetol 11.

29-40 (January- March 1993)

THE ROLE OF VITAMINS IN AGED SKIN

D. Djerassi
Cosmetic/Specialty Chemica ls Group Hoffmann - La Roche , Nutley, NJ, 07110 USA

Receveid: October 30, 1991. Presented at the IV lnternational Congress on Cosmetic Der-
matology "Progress in Cosmetic Dermatology: Science and SafetyH Roma (ltaly) October 31
- November 2, 7991.

Key words: Vitamin E Acetate; Vitamin E Linoleate: Vitamin A; Vitamin C; Pantheno/; Vitamin O;

_________________ Synopsis
Skin is the body's largest and most complex organ. It is a lso the most dependable, maintaining its primruy
function of protection throughout one's Iife. Nevertheless, as skin ages, it becomes subject to problems ...
cosmetically annoying as dryness, wrinkles, age spots or !ife threatening, such as malignant lesions. The
skin aging process itself takes two distinctive pathways: chronologic, mru·ked by histologic and physiolo-
gic changes and photoaging - changes that occur in habitually sun-exposed skin. Although mankind has
been searching for the "Fountain of Youth" throughout history, only in recent yeru·s has science provided
us with ways of slowing down the aging process of the skin by protecting it, or reversing the photoaging
effects. Studies conducted in recent years have provided strong evidence that certain vitarnins, when ap-
plied topically, can play an important and beneficiai role in the aged skin. Some act to protect the body
cells and tissues from damage caused by natural body processes, certain lifestyle choices and environrnen-
tal stresses, whi le others can provide the proper environment for the correction of damage caused to the
skin. Of pruticular interest are vitami ns A, E, C Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5) and their derivatives.
VITAMIN E ACETATE - THE PROTECTOR
The centra i role of vi tami n E Acetate is that of an in vivo antioxidant. It he lps protect agai nst celi
damage caused by UV and poll ution-induced free radicals and, as such, might play a role against
skin aging. In addition, vi tamin E helps maintain the connecti ve tissues' firmness and texture.
YITAMIN E LINOLEATE - T HE MOISTURIZER
Yitamin E Linoleate is a superi or moisturizer. It accum ulates in the stratum corne um and repairs the
Intercellular Moisture Barrier of the ski n.
VITAMIN A - THE NORMA LIZER
Regul ates the growth a nd activity of epithe lia l cells. It increases the skin e lasticity and helps in
thickening the derrnis and epidermis.
YITAMIN C - THE CORRECTOR
Yitamin C, when applied topically from the proper vehicle, can quench oxygen free radicals and
prevent UV damage. R ecent studies indicate possible stimulation of collagen synthesis in the skin.
PANTHENOL-THE BEAUTIFIER
Pa nthenol (provitarnin B5) stimu lates the proliferation of fibro blast cells and aids in ti ssue repair.
Furthermore, it can promote the wound healing process whi ch slows down as skin ages.

------------------Riassunto
L'organo cutaneo è il più esteso ed il più complesso tra gli organi e svolge la sua principale fun zione

29
 The raie of vitamins m aged skm

che è quella di proteggere tutto l'organismo umano.

Con l'invecchiamento sorgono alcuni problemi quali la formazione delle rughe, l'aumento della sec-
chezza cutanea, di " macchie di vecchiaia" fi no a fo rmazioni tumorali. Per quanto riguarda l'invec-
chi amento cutaneo è ormai chi aro che si può parlare di due tipi di in vecchi amen to: que llo
cronologico e quindi già predeterminato dai geni, e quello provocato dalla luce, il cosiddetto fo toin-
vecchiamento.
Con i cosmetici si può intervenire soltanto su quest' ultimo e le sostanze notoriamente atti ve in tal
senso, sono senza dubbio le vitamine A, E, C, il pantenolo (o provitamina B5) ed altri derivati .
VITAMINA E ACETATO - PROTETTRICE
Il ruolo centrale della Vitamina E Acetato è di agi re "in vivo" quale ossidante. Protegge la cell ula
dal danni provocati dagli UV e dagli inquinanti ambientali, attraverso la formazione dei radicali li-
beri. Combatte, quindi, l'invecchiamento cutaneo ed aiuta il tessuto a mantenersi compatto.
VITAMINA E LINOLEATO - L'IDRATANTE
E' un ' idratante importante. Si accumula a li vello dello strato corneo agendo come riparatore della
barriera cutanea.
VITAMINA A - NORMALIZZANTE
Regola la crescita e l' atti vità delle cellule epiteliali. Incrementa l' elasticità della pelle modulando il
turnover cellulare.
VITAMINA C - CORRETTRICE
La vitamina C, se applicata topicamente con un veicolo adatto può legare l'ossigeno dei radicali li-
beri, prevenendo il danno da UV. Recenti studi la indicano come possibile stimolante della sin tesi
del collagene.
PANTENOLO - PER LA BELLEZZA
Il pantenolo (Provitamina B5) stimola la produzione dei fibroblasti e facilita la riparazione cellulare.
Accelera, inoltre, i processi riparativi della cute, processi che rallentano con l' invecchiamento.

30
 D. Djerossi

lntroduction tion, the e mphasis in cosmetics was more on

decorative products, which could cover-up im-
Skin is the body's largest and most cornplex organ. perfections and the signs of advancing age, rathe r
It is also the most dependable, maintaining its pri- than prevention or coITection of damage to skin,
maiy function of protection throughout one's life. hair and nails.
Neve1theless, as skin ages, it becomes subject to
problerns ... cosmetically annoying as dryness, Studies conducted in the late '80s and especially in
wrinkles, age spots or life threatening, such as the last (3) years, have provided us with growing
malignant lesions. evidence that ce1tain vitanlins, can protect the body
cells and ti ssues from damage caused by natural
The skin ag ing process itself takes two distinc- body processes, certain lifestyle choices and en-
ti ve pathways: c hrono log ic, marked by hi s- vi ronmental stresses, while others can provide the
tologic and physio logic c hanges and, photoag- proper environment for the co1Tection of damage
ing - changes that occur in habitua ll y sun-ex- caused to the skin because of chronologic aging and
posed skin . The structural changes that take photoaging.
piace in the skin with aging ca use reduction in
its principal functions by as much as 50-60%.
The physiological c hanges associated with the-
Vifamins - Generai benefits
0
se reductions inc lude impairment of th e barrier Yitamins are natura ll y occurrin g ingredients
function , decreased turnover of epidermal cel- required fo r normai growth and maintenance
ls, residuai numb er of me lanocytes, kerati- of the body functions.
0
nocytes, fibroblasts and decrease in vitami n D Vitamins catalyze reactions as pait of the en-
sy nth es is, sebum production , hair a nd nai l zyme system within the organisms.
growth. The sy nthesis a nd di versity of Langer- ° Certain vitarn ins, suc h as vitamins C, E and
ha ns ce)ls, a nd T cells which are part of the Beta Carotene can protect skin cells and tis-
immune system are a lso re duce d. Ali of the sues.
0
above result in fribrosis, atrophy and thus skin [n cosmetic dermatology, vita mins can provide
aging. a beneficiai environme nt fo r protection, cor-
rec tion and renewal processes of ski n, ha ir
Although rnankind has been searching for the and nails, wh ich slow down considerably with
"Fountain of Youth" throughout history, only in aging.
recent years has science provided us with ways Of particular interest are vitamins A, BS, C, D,
of slowing down the aging process of the skin E and their derivati ves.
by protecting it, or reversing the photoaging ef-
fec ts. Vitamin E Acefale -
Recent studies indicate that vitamins and their
deri vati ves can play a very important role in the
The protector
war against aging. Natural body processes, certain lifesty le choi-
ces, environme ntal pollution and UV radiation
The associati on between vitami ns and good can cause the formation of free radica ls which
health has long been established. Unfo1tunately, are very reacti ve molecul es and as suc h, may
vitamins were not wide ly used in cosmetics or cause damage to cells and ti ssues and accelerate
dermatology because of the belief that vitamins the aging process.
could not penetrate skin , and mostly because the
metabolism of skin was not fully known. In addì- There is growing evidence th at antioxidants

31
 The raie of vitamins in aged skin

function as in vivo free radical quenchers, thus HJOCONVERS ION Of \'ITA MlN E ACETAT E T O
T OCOPHEROL IN SKIN or uv e TREA TED l\ llCE
inhibiting the damage caused by peroxidative l\llcrogramslCram
reactions. Throughout the years, vitamin E has ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

been mainly used by the cosmetic and toiletries 34.01

industry as a ' Natural Moisturizer' , to relieve

dry skin. However, studies conducted in recent
19.91
years have provided information on its benefits 20

beyond moisturization.
There is significant evidence that vitamin E , 10 ...................................... .

when topically applied, plays a crucial role in - 4. 15

protecting - the skin from free radicals damage. '' I I

Placebo P1a<:cbo + UVB 5% E acetale 5% E acc1~11e + UVB
However, because of the poor stability to oxy- Daily applka lion for IO days

gen of Tocopherol (free vitamin E), its use is 0 Tocopherol :m.:ay

impractical as an in vivo antioxidant (although Fig. 2-

it will help in extending the shelf-life of cos-
metic products) and therefore, vitamin E acetate A study conducted by Dr. Madhu Pathak, of
is used. Harvard Medicai School (2) with topica! ap-
plication of vitamin E acetate on mammalian
Vitamin E acetate, (an esterified form of To- skin, has shown that this form of Vitamin E
copherol) is a very stable ingredient, but is not can provide protection to the superox ide dis-
an antioxidant per se. However, its addition to mutase (SOD) enzy me, w hi ch is one of the
skincare and suncare products at the proper le- most important free rad ical scavenging en -
vels has demonstrated that upon penetration into zymes.
the skin, it can provide in vivo antioxidant ac-
tivity in the same way as free vitamin E. Since the leve! of SOD in normai epidermis is
usually low, in tissues that have been exposed
A recent study (1) (February, 1990), conducted for years to UV rad iation and chemical pollu-
by Dr. Edward P. Norku s, of the New Yo rk tion the levels are probably even lower, which
Medicai College has confirmed the bioconver- may explain the susceptability to photo ag ing
sion into free vitamin E. and photocarcinogenicity in aged skin and thus
lead to the need for increased use of free radical
TOPJCAL A8SORP'fl0N OF V ITAMI NE ACETATE scavengers such as vitamin E acetate in these
IN VIVO I N Tll ESKIN llAIRtESS MICE
l\lkrogram!i/G ni m conditions.
)(Xl ,--~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--,

253
250 Another study (3) conducted in 1990 on human
200
volunteers, has confirmed that vitami n E acetate
I" when applied top ically over a period of ten (10)
150
days from a 2.5% gel, has lessened skin damage
100 from UV rad ia tion as measured by reduc ed
50 I- · · . ....... ............. . . ········ · · · · · · ·l
erythema. (Single application did not have any
effect).
PlX"cbo Placebo + U VB 5% E xct:ue 5% E ~ tate+ UVB Application of a commerciai sun blocking pro-
Daily appliu llon for IO days
duct of SPF 2 on top of the vitamin E applica-
O V it. E acc1a1eass.'.I)'
tion site, lowered the erythema considerably.
Fig. 1 - Since the number of melanocytes in the skin of

32
 D. D1erassi

the elderly is sharply reduced, vitamin E acetate 2.5% VITAJ\llN ACETATEIN YfVO S UN~UDY ON HUJ\IANSKIN
can provide natural protection against excessive Sun prolttllon factor (SPf')

sun damage.

T he effect of vitam in E deficiency on the le-

vels of lipid peroxides and solubility of col-
lagen was investigated by A. Igaraski and M.
Uzuka of Shiseido Laboratories 4 in rats fed a
vitamin E deficient diet for three (3) and six Vi1:miin E i:cl Comn\trdal \Ull'iC"rttn Sunscr«:n + 'it. Etei•
O ~appl ica1 ioo
(6) months. T he lipid peroxide content in the O Sunscrccn

ski n was markedly increased in the vitamin E • 10 O:aily applica1ion

• IO daily appl. prior 10 suntanoil SPF 2

deficient group as compared with that of con-
trolled rats on a normai diet. Fig. 3 -
The amount of insoluble collagen in the dermis
of rats on vitamin E deficient d iet was substan- The results of this study suggest that high le-
tially higher than in those fed on a normai diet. ve l s of vitam in E in the s k in reduce the
On the other hand, the leve! of soluble col- amo unt of in so lubl e co ll agen by inhibi ting
lagen, wh ich is abu ndant in yo ung skin, was for mation of perox ides . T he changes in the
higher in the rats fed a normai diet, as com- skin produced by lack of vita min E resemb le
pared to those maintained on vitamin E defi- those in aging and vitamin E may have a raie
cient diet. in slowing down agi ng.

Table I
IN VIVO PHOTOPREVENTIVE EFFECTS
OF VITAMINE ACETATE ON SOD ACTIVITY

units of % %
sod in 50Uug decrease protection
in vivo epidermal ofsod of sod by
reaction systems proteins activity quencher

Skin homogenate (contro!) 0.96 o 100

Skin +UVA 0.61 36.5 63.5
Skin +topica! sod +UVA 0.89 7.3 92.7
Skin + aTCA +UVA 0.89 7.3 92.7
Skin +3cp +UVA 0.32 66.7 33.3
Skin + 3cp + aTCA + UVA 0.75 22.0 78.0
Skin + UVB 0.63 34.4 65.6
Skin + aTCA + UVB 0.83 13.6 86.4

3CP = 3-Carbethoxypsoralen. (M.A. Pathak, 1988)

33
 The raie of vlfamins in aged skin

EHECTS or VIT. E m: r 1 c n:~C\' 0;'11 KAT SKIN

be me tabolized in the sk.i n and be incorporated
CO:'o\TE.:'\TOl-' SOl.UHl .f; COU.A(:EN INTH ESKL"l
into the structuraJ li pids of the epidermis (cera-
Il) dro~)prol!ne (nig/g lissut')
mides) - the building blocks of the lntercellular
08 Moisture Barrie r of the skin,
06 ................... .!
OJ In the elde rl y. due to deficient diets, or poor
02
transport to the skin because of poor absorp-
tion (improper functio ning of me tabo lic sys-
3 \lonth 6 Month tems, or drug interfere nce), the levels of the
O Normai
necessary EFAs co uld be mu ch lower tha n in
0 Vi1. Ellef.
youn g skin , thu s importa nt role in repairing
Fig. 4 - (A. lgoroshi, M. Uzuko ond K. Nokojimo) the moi sture barrie r.

CO~'TE!\'T OF TOCOP11 E MOI~ , ,. T ISSUES Vitamin E Lino leate, whic h is characterized by

EFFECTS m· \Tr. 1-: m :flCIE,"'i'Cl ' o~ RAT SKl:O.'
excellent stabili ty and non-irritancy can play a
IO .......................... .
very important rote in re pairing the mo istu re
g .... barrier.

Stud ies co nducted with radio- labeled vitami n E

Linoleate (5) bave shown that thi s derivative ac-
cumulates mostly in the stratum corneum and is
incorporated into the ceramide lipids, making it
O e°"""'
0 V1t.Edt-fiden1 a n idea i b uil ding block of t he Intercellu lar
Moisture Barrier of the skin.
Fig. 5 - (A. lgoroshi, M. Uzuko ond K. Nokojimo)

VITA M INE l..INOLl-;ATE INCORl'ORATED INTO

Vitamin E Linoleate Cl-: H.Ai\l lDES C.W "IOUSE. PIG. & JIUi\IAN EPIDEIOllS
14C Counh In Tl~C plalt'

The moisturizer
90000 ···········--····-···- ··········-····- -··-- ··-·········-·- ···············-·

O ne o f the major s igns of aged ski n is the im- 8CKlCX) ·········-·····-·-··-·····························-··········-····

paired Intercellular Moisture B arrier of the stra-

70000 ··········· ........................... . .. ........................ r,;::'' "
tum corneum, whi c h mani fests itself in exces-
sive dryness and scali ness. 60000 ............................................ .

soooo ................................................ ..
Stud ies co ndu c ted in the last (10) ten years
have revealed that although water plays an im-
portant role in keeping the skin moist and sup- 30000

ple, the abi lity of the stratum corneum to resist ~-

moi sture loss, depends on the presence of long
10000
chain polyun saturated lipids known as Essen- ~ -·······iTT
tial Fatty Ac ids (EFA) . Comrol Umaggcd 14C Mou.;e 1-K P1g 14C l llim1n
Vlt1 111ln E llnolt>11tr samplrs

• Samplrl
These lipids, which consist of linoleic, linolenic 0 S""!'l<2

and arachidonic acids cannot be synthesized by O Somrkl

the body, although when to pically applied can Fig. 6

34
 D. D;erass1

\'ITA1\llN E 1.11"01.F.An ; INCOHIJQRATEO

INTO L I PIDS O•' ll UMAN 1-:Pll)ERMIS VITAM I N E Ll 1'0LEAl"E l ..Vi>Gt.:L TKANSE l' JOISR~ I AL \\ AU : R 1,oss STUUIF.S

l~ C Coun1s in TLC pla ll' (Thou~1and.\) Akohol gel formul.allon

100 . . - - - - - - - - -- - ----,
IO, - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - ----,

90 ······································································ .1: · :rn::::::::.[J........:::::::::m

········· ·:::::::::11::: :

80 ······-··-··--······-····-·······-····-···············
:: : :~: : :~-· · · ·-· · : .:.~ .: : ~·
50
.. ·~ .: : ~.·.~:. :.~ :.~ .:.~·: . .:~: .
..

:: :::::::::::::::~:::::::::~:::::::::::::::::
70 ········--···············-·· ............... - ..... - ......... ·········=--··

!;) ..•.••..• - .............:::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::.............:::::

·~ '---------------------'
D:.i) I D<&) 2 O.y3 Day4
so ...................................
O Placcbo gcl
o F. l1nolc;;itc 1.5% sd

JO ········--·····························-
Fig. 8 - (Peter M. Elios. M.D. VSCF. Sepf./Nov. 1989)
20 .....................

IO ·-····-·· -·························-··
Vitamin C-
CMUOI U~ 14CTIQ'Cd 14C'Tçcd 14CT~
\'lt::iimln E lhwltlllt sa mplH The corrective protector
O OlokMcrol

O C"ramides Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) has bee n fo und to be

an esse ntial co-factor in the hyd roxylatio n of
Fig . 7
proline and lysi ne to fo rm hydroxyproline and
Transepidermal water loss has been used as a hydroxylysine a mino acids which are necessary
parameter for measuring the barrier function of fo r Lhe formation and func tion of collagen (7).
the skin. Studies conducted with c ultured human ski n fi-
It has bee n demonstrated by ma ny promine nt broblasts demon strated that ascorbic acid stimu-
researchers that skin deficie nt in essential fatty lated collagen sy nthesis pre fe re ntiall y witho ut
acids exhibits high TEWLs, mani fes ting itself affecti ng non-col lagen sy nthesis.
in high ke ratinization and subseque nt dryness
and scaliness. Although the body reservoir of ascorbic acid is
about 1500 mg. and normai d aily intake ca n
ln a study conducted by Dr. Peter Elias of the maintain a sarurated leve!; there are many fac-
Uni versity of California in San Francisco (6), tors that potentiall y contribute to low ascorbi c
the effect of 1.5 % vita min E linoleate was tested acid levels. These include age, smoking, infec-
against a placebo base, for its Transepidermal tion, and drug intake.
Wa te r Loss Reduc tion on the skin of hairless
mi ce (maintained on a n essential fatcy acid s Skin is especia lly sensiti ve when vita min C le-
deficie nt diet). vels are low, whi ch could result in dimjn ished
collagen synthesis even without ove11 manifesta-
The results of this study showed a significant tion of ascorbate deficiency. A study conducted
redu c tion in TEWL with the gel con taining with the guinea pigs mai ntained on sub-chronic
l.5% vitam in E linoleate vs. the placebo base e
vitamin levels (8) confirmed that when the ca-
(65 % vs. 10%); reaching a peak after the fou rth pac ity for collagen synthesi s was measured in
(4th) d ay o f application . These d ata pro vide severa! tissues, ski n appeared to be preferenti ally
strong e vidence that vitamin E linoleate can res- depleted compared to other tissues.
tore the Intercellular Moisture Barrier in th e
aged skin. These fi ndings support the need to deli ver as-

35
 The raie of vitamins m aged skin

corbic acid directly to the dermis in order to al- in slowing down the aging process of the skin,
ter locai deficiencies a nd preferentially stimu- and reversing the signs of aging in mature skin.
late collagen synthesis and thus potentially re-
verse the thinning of the epidermis. Vifamin A - The normalizer
Unfortunately, ascorbic acid, althoug h readi ly
soluble in water, is rapid ly oxidized on exposure Vitamin A is often referred to as the normaliz-
to ai r. In addition, because of its polar nature, its ing vitamin because it is essential not only for
pene tration into the skin is limited. normai differen tiati on of the epiderm al cells,
but also for the growth and maintenance of bo-
Studies conducted by Dr. Sheldon R. Pinne! at nes, teeth, glands, nails and hair. As most other
Duke U ni vers it y M e dicai Center (9) ha ve retinoids, it exerts dose-dependent effects, sug-
s ho wn that vitamin C can be stabili zed and gesting qualitati ve differences in the effects cau-
upon pene tration into the skin (12,4% after 72 sed by high and low doses.
hours) there was three fold increase in the col-
lagen con tent. Over the last fi ve (5) years, the vitamin A g roup
has received additi onal publicity because of the
VITAM I N C · Ef<'FECTON KEl.ATIVE CO LLAGEN SYNTll ES IS c linical studies conducted with one of its ana-
C l'MJCrll
400 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ logs, re tinoi c ac id , wh ic h has demonstra ted
296.6
reversal of photoaging.
300 ····················································-··········

200 -····-···-··-·-··-···········-··-··-··--··--··················---··-------
Vitamin A Palmitate, on the othe r ha nd, whic h
IOJ.2
also belongs to the Vitamin A group, has not
100 ••• , r···········1 been used extensively because of the belief that

No~:ictd
I it cannot penetrate the skin.
Tol11lt"oll111:c11 !))'lllhnls

Recent studies have shown that if formulated

Fig. 9 - (Koplon et o/. J. Cut. Aging & Cos. Derm. 1989) prope rly and at the right levels it not onl y can
penetrate skin, but its benefits are similar to tho-
In addition to the role of ascorbic acid in col- se of retinoic acid but without the side effects .
lagen biosynth es is , Dr. S he ldon Pinne ! h as
shown that topical application of a 10% solution A study conducted in 1988 by David F. Cou nts
of stabilized ascorbic ac id provided significant of Eli Lilly (I I ) has de monstrated that topical
protection against UV damage when compared administration of inc reasing levels of Vitamin A
with a reas of the skin ( 1O) treated with vehicle Palmitate for fo urteen (14) consecutive days in
alone. By using laser Dopple r Velocimetry to a suitable cosmetic vehicle, caused significant
measure erythema and counting the number of dose-related c hanges in the co mpositio n and
"sunbum cells" in the pigs treated for l week morphometry of hairless mice skin.
prior to UVB radiation exposure. Both parame-
ters were red uced by 50 % when compared to There was a 128% increase of collagen per unit
the placebo. In add ition, the animai studies indi- of skin surface area in response to Vitamin A
cate that the "reservoir effect" persists severa) Palmitate admi nistration when compared to the
days after application. contro! vehi cle . In additio n, there was an in-
crease of DNA content and sign ificant thicken-
A li of the above points to interesting o ppor- ing of the epidermis and the dermis in the areas
tunities in using vitamin e (in the stable form) where Vitamin A Palmitate was applied.

36
 O Dwrass1

EFJ."ECTS or RlllN\'L 1'1\L~ llTATE ON Si<l'.11'' EIJ\STICIT\'

RETl.SYL PAl.;\lrfATE EffECTS AN COLLAGEN A!\D DNA CO~TENTS
Prrttnl mlsta.ntt 10 Mfo~tton
Amount ptr punch IW .----------------~
IW ,--- - -- - -- - -- - -- - ---,
140 . ........................................ ...... ......................................... ..........................
100
120 100 · . - - - - _ _ ,........................~?...
100 ....

80
60 ........

40 .•

1.5
Pl'rcl'nl rt"linyl palmllrltl'
40
O D~A conteni
O Colla1cn contcnt

Fig. 10 - (J. Soc. C osmet. Chem. July/ Aug. 1988)

5.000 IO.COO
RETIN\'L l'AUllTATE Efo'l-' ECTON EPIDEKMA I. ANI) OERMAL TlllCKNESS Rt1}nll1>:1lml 1111 r l lJIJ:
ThkknHs, mkn:imeitni
300,.-------------------, Fig. 12 - (Hoffman - La Roche /ne.)

ISO Vifamin D
100
Vitamin D is essential for the development a nd
maintenance of the healthy skeleta1 structure in
X O.I O~ I~ humans. It can be obtained eithe r by photosyn-
Prn'Tnt min)I palmlla lt'

O Epukrma1thtd..ne'' thesis from 7-dehydrocho lesterol (provita min

O Dem13I 1h1cl nch 03) or through nutrition.

Fig. 11 - (J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. July/ Aug. 1988)

With progressing age, the leve! of 7-dehydro-
cholesterol is significantly reduced, as demon-
In another study ( 12) conducted at the Hoffman n- strated by Dr. Mic hael Holik of Harvard Medi-
LaRoche Laboratories in Basle, Switzerland, the cai Schoo l (1 3) in his stud y w ith ti ssues ob-
improvement in the skin elasticity was measured. tained from vari ous age groups (8-8 1 years).

This test, whic h was conducted wi th Vitamin A Since the epidermis in both the young and o lder
Palmitate at level s of 5.000 IU/g and 10,000 subjects is the major site fo r the formation of
IU/g fo r a pe riod of 15 days, has shown that al- Provitamjn 0 3, accounting fo r 80% of the tota!
though the modulus of elasticity was hardly in- levels, it is imperative that the proper levels are
fluenced at 5,000 IU/g (less than 3% ), it was al- maintained. poor nutriti on and exte nsive use of
tered significantl y at 10,000 IU/g ( 14 %). drugs can cause severe deficiency in the e lderly.
Furthermore, w ith the heavy use of high SPF
These studies are a good indication that Vitam in suncare prod uc ts, this proble m is even more
A Palmitate can be useful tool in reversing the acute.
atrophying of skin with age, and even correcting
photodamage, which is associated with collagen In addition to its function as a regulator of bone
cross-linking and thinning off the epidermis and metabolism, vitamin D was fo und to play an im-
de nnis. portant role in preventing damaged melanocytes

37
 The raie of v1tamms in aged skin

from becoming cancerous. The study conducted ing time as compared to the vehicle wi thout pan-
by Dr. Frank Garland of the University of Califor- the nol. The blister technique was used with the
nia in San Diego ( 14) has shown that because of course of healing measured in 24 ho urs intervals.
the use of high SPF s uncare products, and the
subsequent reduction in D3, the paitially damaged

...n
. .,..
111-.:All:O..G &. SOOTlll~ G STUDY WITll PA.'.lo,-llF,,., 01.
melanocytes could turn into cancerous ones.
120 - ···· ...........09~..................... ··············iro-r··- · · ..............................................
Although Yitamin D3 is banned for use in cos- 100 - ·······

metics by some European countries, its emerg- so

ing importance requi res a second look into its 60 -···· ·············•····• ...
useful ness in geriatric cosme tics. -'41 - --.. ·· ' ................... ...
20 - ····· · ................... ...

Panthenol (Pro- Vitamin 85) \\ ound hnlinc 1inw

The beautifier
Fig. 13 - (Dr. H. Weiser, Jonuory 1988)
Panthenol (pro-vitamin 85 ) was synthes ized by
Hoffmann-LaRoc he in the mid 1940' as a stabl e The healing e ffe ct was co nfirmed in a st udy
analog of pantothe nic acid (Vi tamin B5). conducted by 8. Lac ro ix ( 16) in 1988. In thi s
study, human skin fibrob last cell c ultures were
Pantothenic acid which is pan of the B-complex treated wi th Pan totenic Acid at levels of 40-80
group is present in al l li ving cells and is a con- mcg/ ml. The celi proliferation was measured by
stitue nt of co-enzy me A. The key fu nction of cell count and de te rmination of H3 thymid ine
this co-enzyme is to act as a carrier in acetyla- incorporatio n. The protein synthes is and secre-
tion reactions (Krebs cycle). The activate d ace- tion were detennined by the tota! quanti ty in the
tale formed with pantothenic is essential in the cells and culture med ium. the test indicates that
synthesis of lipids, prote ins and the linkage bet- addition of pantothe nic acid (v itam in 85 ) in-
ween I ipids/protei ns/carboh ydrates. duces a strong cellular stimulatory effect. Th is
effect was at a maximum during days 2 and 3.
Deftciency of vitamin 85 can result in many der- In addition , pantothenic acid stimulated intra-
matologica( disorde rs. There is considerable clini- cellular protein synthesis but did not induce re-
ca] data about its use in such skin disorders. A lar- lease of prote in into the culture medium.
ge amount of the clinica! references deals with the
effect of panthenol in wound healing includ ing
I~ v rnm s nM ULATION Qll l 'KO'n; 1~ S\'N Tll ~ IS WITll l'Allro'TOTllEMC A.Cli)•
healing of burns. This activity is related to the ef- mi; prottln ptr unii
0.6 ~--------------~
fect of Pantothenic Acid on celi proliferation.
o~

S ince in wo unds and in flammatory di sord ers 0.4

the vitamin B 5 requireme nts are increased , the

topi c a! a ppl ication ca n readil y provide thi s 02

need , especially bec au se of its quick pe ne tra- O. I

tio n into the skin. 10

S tudi es cond uc ted at Hoffmann-La Roc he in

1987 by Dr. H. Weiser ( 15) on hairless mice, in-
dicate considerable reduction in the wound heal- Fig. 14 - (8. Locroix et al.)

38
 O D1erass1

Both studies are indicative of the role panthenol

(pro-vitamin BS) can play in aging skin which
suffers from slow healing due to many factors,
and in particular, reduction in celi proliferation.

Summary
Although the association between vitamins and
good health had been established long ago, vi ta-
mins were not widely used in skincare products,
because of the belief that vi tamins could not pe-
netrate the skin.

Stud ies conducted in recent years have provided

growing evidence that certain vitamins do pene-
trate and can play an important ro le in skincare
products.

Some act to proteci cells and tissues from dama-

ge caused by natural body processes and en-
vi ronm e ntal s tresses (c hem·ical pollution ,
smoke, UV), while others correct and beautify.
Their role is even more important in treatment
of aged skin, which is affected by physiolog ical
changes associated wi th decreased turnover of
epidermal cells, residuai num ber of melanocy-
tes, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, Langerhans cells
and decrease in vitamin D production.

Yitamins, which catalyze many reactions as part

of the enzy me system within the organism can
provide the skin with the proper environment
for protection (especially the antioxidant vita-
mins C, E and Beta Carotene), correction and
renewal (Yitamin A,C), accelerated wound heal-
i ng (Pa nthenol) and also good moisturi zing
properties.

On goi ng studies conducted at Hoffmann-LaRo-

che and major scientific institutes arou nd the
world continue to unravel the importance of vi-
tamins in the war against aging.

39
 The rote of vlfamins tn aged sktn

References
1. Norkus, Edward P. (1990) Bioconversion of Vitamin E Acetate to Free Tocopherol. New York
Medicai College
2. Pathak, Madhu (1988) Protective Effects of Vitamin E Acetate on Superoxide Dismutase. Har-
vard Medica} School .
3. Djerassi, David (1990) In Vivo Effect of Vitamin E Acetale on Sun Protection in Human Skin.
Hoffmann-LaRoche !ne., USA
4. Igarashi, A./Uzuka, M. (1989) The Effects of Vitamin E Deficiency on Rat Skin. British Jour-
nal of Dermatology. 121, 43-49
5. Pugliese, Peter T. (1988) Penetration of Radiolabeled Vitamin E Linoleate into Human Skin.
Xienta Institute for Skin Research
6. Elias, Peter M. (1989) Effect of Vitamin E Linoleate on Transepidermal Water Loss in Mam-
malian Skin. University of California, San Francisco, Dept. of Dermatology.
7. Cardinale, G.J. (1979) Udenfriend, S.: Proline Hydroxidase. Advanced Enzymology. 41, 245
8. Bates, C.J (1979). Vitamin C Deficiency in Guinea Pigs. International Journal of Vitamin
Nutrition Research 49, 77
9. Pinnell, Sheldon R.(1988) New Stabilized Ascorbic Acid Solution - Percutaneous Absorption
and Effect on Relative Collagen Synthesis. Journal of Cutaneous Aging & Cosmetic Dermatol-
ogy, Voi. I, No. 2
10. Pinnell, Sheldon R. (1991) Vitamin C - Topica! Use as Skin Preserver, Medicai World News
11. Counts, David F .(1998) The Effect of Retinyl Palmitate on Skin Composition and Mor-
phometry. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 38, 235-240
12. Klecak, G. (1989) Effect of Topica! Application of Vitamin A Palmitate on Skin Elasticity.
Hoffmann-LaRoche, Switzerland
13. Holick, Michael F.(1985) Aging Decreases the Capacity of Human Skin to Produce Vitamin
D3. The American Society far Clinica! Investigation. 76, 1536-1538
14. Garland, Frank C. (1990) Effect of Vitamin D Deficiency on Damaged Melanocytes. Univer-
sity of California, San Diego
15. Weiser, Harald (1987) Wound Healing Properties of Panthenol on Marnmalian Skin. Hoffman-
n-LaRoche, Switzerland
16. Lacroix, B. (1988) Effects of Pantothenic Acid on Fibroblast Celi Cultures. Research in Ex-
perimental Medicine. 188, 391-396

40