200 Series Diff Drop Instruction

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200 Series Land Cruiser Front Differential Drop instructions

Kit Preparation, Manufacture & setup.

Step 1 Procure hardware as listed in below Mod Kit Picture.

Note: Most Fastener suppliers will carry these items, check on the 150mm Bolts in advance as are longest
in this size available and most difficult to obtain. The 150mm Bolts will run at $6-$20 each (combined all
remaining h/ware will be no more than $15). All Bolts High Tensile grade 8.8 (or greater).

Step 2 Procure/manufacture required Spacers.

Note: It's all just basic hack sawing, drilling and filing (get the metal merchants to do all the cutting, they
will charge per cut (cheap) and have quality cutting equipment (don't try to hacksaw the 65mm Bar!). No
need to wait for a “real Kit”, sure they will follow eventually, I would expect at $150+, expensive for a
couple of holes! Drill holes for standard clearance fit (basically 0.5-1.0mm for the 8 & 10mm bolts and
1.0-1.5mm for the14mm Bolts).

A. 3x 50-65mm x 30mm (holed as below). These can be Ali or Steel (or Stainless if you
have $$ to throw away), Ali is preferred due ease to work, corrosion resistance etc (they
take light loads only, although alloyed 6061 T6 or similar would be best). Expect to Pay
around $10 plus $5 total for them cutting into 3x 30mm lengths (if min buy is per 100mm)

B. 1x 30-35mm x 18mm as below. I say/used Steel as the bracket hole is 15-20 mm and
very harsh/sharp. Ali would be fine if you added a bottom Washer (1x extra to h/ware list)
and adjusted Spacer height to suit for total combined 18mm. This is to save chasing up
Steel which aren’t always sold together!

C. 6x 25mm x 20mm (high) Spacers (not shown below). Made from Ali, Steel or even
stacked Washers, holed for 10mm Bolts. Ali bar stock min buy normally 1m (expect about
$20 for this if so).

Additional required Items :


 Lock tight for all Bolts (or other thread lock fluid).
 Trolley Jack
 H/D Axle Stands (or private hoist, guess you will be using Stainless also).
 General Spanners/Sockets/tools etc.
 Torque Wrench
 Creature Comfort items (Floor Creeper, Radio, Beer for Job completion).

Timing:
With all items procured you will need 1-2 hrs to manufacture all the Spacers (less if you
had them cut for you). Full task (with Kit ready) could be done in around 3 hours (one
man), half that 2nd time around.
Kit's ready, let's go!
Task Basic Steps
Step 1 Prepare Vehicle (using extreme caution and quality Stands). Lift front until
both Wheels are just off the ground (for clearance to work), place Axle Stands under
Chassis just behind front Wheels (area under car needs to be clear and you will need the
Jack again).

Step 2 Remove forward and rear under body protection panels, see below.

Keep all these Bolts. The 2nd row of arrows down (middle one) can be jacked on and is
the one that gets the 3rd large spacer (under here remains the centre line “back bone”
Panel support).

You will now see this, when panels are removed!


Step 3 Remove both rebound stoppers (Mount bash guards), discard bolts. Remove
Fwd mount attach Bolts (C and D, fig 1), discard bolts and nuts. The Diff will hang and
only drop 20-40mm (it's light enough to also hold up/move etc).

Step 4 Optional- (I did it, but not necessary) remove Bolts E & F (and the ones not
marked that hold the other Mount Bracket) and reinstall with thread lock.

Step 5 Fit new 150mm Bolts through rubber shock mount with Spacer in between,
finger tighten new Nylock nut down fully (push mount up by hand to assist) do not do up
tight at this stage (note NO washer on bolt or nut for these mounts). Also fit spacer
between backbone and Chassis with the 8x50mm bolt, washer and spring washer (this can
be tightened), will look like the below when done.
Step 6 Remove Bolt B, aft mount (fig 1). The Diff will come to rest on the “Stud” as
below. Remove the nut on the end of said stud (you can just see it in the hole). Place your
Trolley Jack under the diff (towards this end) and carefully lift 40 odd mm (it's not very
heavy, but watch it remains free when coming up). Remove the remaining mount bolt “A”
(the one in the Diff/rubber mount) and twist bracket sideways to remove (you will see
both holes each end have huge play for alignment (15-20mm).

Tip: prior to the above full action, remove bolt “B”, just back off the nut and Bolt “A” a
couple of turns and slip in the Spacer, retighten the nut and bolt “A” this will clamp the
Spacer and “lift” the Diff to where it will sit, Spacer rework can be done if required (see
STEP 9, will save lots of effort later).

The below is how it looks before you started. Note full stud size.
Step 7 Grind 50% of the stud head down/off (bracket removed).

Step 8 Refit aft Bracket. Stud end in 1st, then new 14 x 80MM bolt (big washer
under head) and 18mm spacer fitted as below. Start threads in this and Diff/mount Bolt
before tightening either. May take some fiddling, levering and language here, but be
cautious not to cross thread any. When done lower jack and remove, fit nut on stud
(remember lock tight on all 3x fasteners prior to fitment).
STEP 9 Firmly tighten all 3x fasteners on the aft mount and both on the fwd mounts.
Check fwd mount bolts are at least flush with the end of the Nut (lock tight them also)
and check no contact with the steering rack. Clearance between reworked stud and diff
should now be around 5mm (no less). If less, remove aft mount spacer and file 1mm off
and retry for clearance and so on.

If/when good torque ALL as required


Tighten bolt A.
Torque:
120 N*m{ 1224 kgf*cm , 89 ft.*lbf }

Tighten bolt B and the nut.


Torque:
120 N*m{ 1224 kgf*cm , 89 ft.*lbf }

Tighten bolts C and D.


Torque:
120 N*m{ 1224 kgf*cm , 89 ft.*lbf
STEP 10 Quick look in here (will need torch and mirror and or pinkie finger) for
clearance, 5+mm will do. This shot is deceptive and was before drop, didn't change much
post!

STEP 11 Fit front mount bash guards as below, Spacers, new bolts (10 x 50mm),
washers and spring washers (my L/H one just needed the aft corners ground/rounded as
touched the bracket). You may have noticed the spacers are 10mm shorter than the
mount spacers????? This was intentional as the original clearance between them was too
big, so gaining some back is good.
STEP 12 Recheck everything then refit the under body protection panels.

STEP 11 Lower Vehicle and test drive (hard accel/decal and high speed etc, check for
any vibration, noises (rubbing, scraping).

Finished!!!!
This is an uncontrolled guide ONLY, fit and finish may vary Vehicle to Vehicle, please seek professional advice
and inspection prior to undertaking this modification and post completion of task.

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