Canary Islands 6 Tenerife PDF

PD
F
Canary
Islands
Tenerife
(PDF Chapter)
Edition 6th Edition, Jan 2016
Pages 42
Page Range 120-163, 216-234 COVERAGE INCLUDES:
Useful Links • Santa Cruz de • Santiago del Teide
Tenerife • Masca
Want more guides?
Head to our shop • La Laguna • Los Gigantes &
• Puerto de la Cruz Puerto de Santiago
Trouble with your PDF?
• La Orotava • Los Cristianos
Trouble shoot here
• Icod de los Vinos • Playa de las
Need more help? • Garachico Américas & Costa
Head to our FAQs Adeje
• Parque Nacional
Stay in touch del Teide • Las Galletas
Contact us here • Punta de Teno • Candelaria, Güímar
• El Médano
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Tenerife
% 922, 822 / POP 890,000
Includes  Why Go?

Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the striking (and slightly saucy) grand dame in the
Tenerife........................123 archipelago family. Attracting over 10 million visitors a year,
La Laguna................... 130 the island’s most famous southern resorts offer Brit-infused
Puerto de la Cruz.........135 revelry and clubbing, combined with white sandy beaches
La Orotava.................... 141 and all-inclusive resorts. But step beyond the lobster-red
tourists and what you’ll find is a cultured and civilised island
Icod de los Vinos..........144 of extraordinary diversity.
Garachico.....................145 This potpourri of experiences includes tropical-forest
Parque Nacional del walks and designer-shop struts; dark forays into volcanic
Teide.............................146 lava; a sexy and sultry Carnaval celebration that’s second
Los Gigantes & only to Rio, and a stash of museums, temples to modern art
Puerto de Santiago...... 151 and creaky old colonial towns. But above all else, this is an
Los Cristianos, Playa de island of drama, and nothing comes more dramatic than the
las Américas & Costa snow-draped Pico del Teide, Spain’s tallest mountain and
Adeje............................152 home to some of the most fabulous hiking in all the country.
Las Galletas................ 160
Candelaria.................... 161
Güímar & Around.........162
When to Go
El Médano....................163 ¨¨December to February is pleasantly warm, except on
El Teide where deep winter can see snowfall closing the
mountain.
¨¨Springtime (March to April) is good for hiking and
Best Places to Eat wildflowers. Surfers will find the best waves in March.
¨Ïn the summer months from May to September, expect
¨¨Guaydil (p133)
around 11 hours of daily sunshine with an average of 28°C in
¨¨La Hierbita (p128) August; a few degrees cooler during the surrounding months.
¨¨Tito’s Bodeguita (p140) ¨Äs autumn turns from October to November, temperatures
fall around the ideal 21°C mark and there’s fewer tourists;
some hotels may drop their prices slightly.
Best Places to
Stay
¨¨Hotel Alhambra (p227)
¨¨Hotel Adonis Capital
(p226)
¨¨Hotel Sun Holidays (p227)
1 21
History ROAD DISTANCES (KM)
The original inhabitants of Tenerife were Puerto de la Cruz 74
primitive cave-dwellers called Guanches,
Los Cristianos 158 140
who arrived from North Africa around 200
BC. Tenerife was the last island to fall to the Puerto de Santiago 73 40 27
Spanish (in 1496) and subsequently became Parador Nacional de Teide 128 90 64 40
an important trading centre. As such, it was
Los Cristianos
subject to invasions by marauding pirates
de la Tenerife
Puerto de la
Santa Cruz
and, in 1797, from the British in the battle of
Puerto de
Santiago
Santa Cruz, when Admiral Nelson famously
Cruz
lost his arm (served him right, really).
In 1821 Madrid declared Santa Cruz de Approximate distances only
Tenerife the capital of the Canaries. The good
and great of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria re-
mained incensed about this until 1927, when Naviera Armas (Map p124; % 902 45 65 00;
Madrid finally split the archipelago into two www.navieraarmas.com) runs an extensive ferry
provinces, with Santa Cruz as the provincial service around the islands from Santa Cruz de
capital of Tenerife, La Palma, La Gomera and Tenerife.
¨¨ Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Gran Canaria
El Hierro. As economic links between the
(from €31, 2½ hours, 21 weekly)
Canaries and the Americas strengthened, a
¨¨ Morre Jable, Fuerteventura (from €70, 6½
small exodus of islanders crossed the ocean,
hours, one daily)
notably to Venezuela and Cuba. In later years
¨¨ Puerto del Rosario, Fuerteventura (from €62,
affluent emigrants and Latin Americans re-
Te n e ri fe G etting T h e r e & Away

11½ hours, one daily)
versed the trend, bringing influences that are
¨¨ Arrecife, Lanzarote (from €72.50, 11 hours,
still evident in the food and Latino beat of
one daily, Monday to Friday)
the music of today’s Tenerife.
Fred Olsen (% 902 10 01 07; www.fredolsen.
es) has three to six daily ferries from Santa Cruz
88 Getting There & Away to Agaete in the northwest of Gran Canaria (€36,
AIR 1¼ hours), from where you can take its free bus
Two airports serve the island. Tenerife Sur onwards to Las Palmas (35 minutes).
(Reina Sofía; % 922 75 95 10; www.aena.es), Ferries from Los Cristianos
about 20km east of Playa de las Américas,
Ferries come in and out of the Los Cristianos
handles international flights, while almost all
port day and night. Naviera Armas and the fast-
inter-island flights (plus a few international and
er, but more expensive, Fred Olsen operate from
mainland services) use the older and smaller
here. Tickets are available from travel agents or
Tenerife Norte (Los Rodeos; % 922 63 56 35;
from the main Estación Marítima building.
www.aena.es). Binter Canarias (% 092 39 13
92; www.bintercanarias.com) connects the Routes operated by Naviera Armas from Los
island with the rest of the archipelago. Cristianos include the following:
¨¨ San Sebastián de la Gomera, La Gomera
BOAT (€30, one hour, three daily Monday to Friday,
Ferries from Santa Cruz one Saturday, two Sunday)
¨¨ Santa Cruz de la Palma, La Palma (€41, 3½
Buy tickets for all companies from travel agents
or from the main Estación Marítima Muelle hours, one daily Sunday to Friday)
Ribera (Map p124) building in Santa Cruz (from ¨¨ Valverde, El Hierro (€49.50, 3¾ hours,
where the Fred Olsen boats leave). Naviera Ar- 5.30pm Sunday to Friday)
mas has its base further to the south. Routes operated by Fred Olsen from Los Cris-
Trasmediterránea Acciona (% in Madrid 902 tianos include the following:
45 46 45; www.trasmediterranea.com; Estación ¨¨ San Sebastián de la Gomera, La Gomera
Marítima Muelle Ribera) runs a weekly ferry at (€32, 50 minutes, three daily Monday to Friday,
11.30pm every Friday from Santa Cruz de Tener- two daily Saturday and Sunday)
ife that makes the following stops: ¨¨ Santa Cruz de la Palma, La Palma (from €42,
¨¨ Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Gran Canaria two hours, one daily Sunday to Friday)
(from €22, 8½ hours)
¨¨ Puerto del Rosario, Fuerteventura (from €26,
20½ hours)
¨¨ Arrecife, Lanzarote (from €28, 24 hours)
1 22
D Santa Cruz
de la Palma
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# 0
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los Gigantes \ 3 Parque Nacional
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\
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GaviotasÙ # \ #
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(Reina Sofía) Ù # El Cabezo
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D Faro de la
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San Sebastián õ Silencio
Rasca ATLANTIC
de la Gomera; Galletas
Puerto de la OCEAN
Estaca (El Hierro)
Tenerife Highlights
1 Do a Darwin and check 3 Hike around the fabulous 5 Visit La Laguna (p130),
out the magnificent Anaga moonscape of Parque and the best-preserved
mountains (p134), the oldest Nacional del Teide (p146) historical quarter on the island
geographical region on the 4 Check out the great wave 6 Be overawed by tiny
island of the Auditorio de Tenerife Masca (p150) and its
2 Roll out your party gear (p126) in Santa Cruz de extraordinary setting
for a night on the town at the Tenerife 7 Enjoy the salty sea breezes
neon-framed hot spots in of the charming resort of
Playa de las Américas (p152) Puerto de la Cruz (p135)
123
88 Getting Around oMuseo de la Naturaleza y
TITSA (Transportes Interurbanos de Tenerife el Hombre MUSEUM
SA; www.titsa.com) runs a spider’s web of bus (www.museosdetenerife.org; Calle Fuente Morales;
services all over the island, as well as within adult/child €3/1.50; h 9am-7pm Tue-Sun) This
Santa Cruz and other towns. brain-bending amalgam of natural science
Car-rental agencies are plentiful and you and archaeology is the city’s number one
shouldn’t have a problem, even if you want attraction, and one of the best museums in
same-day rental. International chains are pres- all the Canary Islands. Set inside the for-
ent in all major resort areas and the airports. mer civil hospital, the exhibit highlights are
You can take a taxi anywhere on the island – undoubtedly the Guanche mummies and
but it is an expensive way to get around. You are skulls, all of which are shrivelled masses of
much better off hiring a car. skin, hair and bone, with faces dried into
contorted and grotesque expressions.
In addition, there are informative dis-
SANTA CRUZ DE plays on the wildlife, flora and geology; the
TENERIFE audiovisual presentation about the eruption
of El Teide is particularly powerful. Children
POP 207,000
will enjoy the interactive displays with their
Don’t bypass the bustling capital, the port of
flashing buttons and large TV screens. At
Santa Cruz, in your haste to reach the beach-
present, signage is only in Spanish, although
es. This good-looking and wholly Spanish
most of the exhibition rooms have laminated
city is home to evocative, brightly painted
explanatory sheets in English. There’s a cafe
buildings, sophisticated and quirky shops,
and gift shop.
Te n e ri fe S anta C r u z de T ene r ife

excellent museums, a showstopping audito-
rium, and a tropical oasis of birdsong, foun- oTenerife Espacio de las Artes ART
tains and greenery in the city park. It also (TEA; www.teatenerife.es; Avenida de San Sebastián
has a good range of quality accommodation 10; adult/child €7/free, film admission €4; h 10am-
and restaurants, plus an excellent bus sys- 8pm Tue-Sun) The highlight of this dramatic
tem, making it a sensible base for exploring modern building is the excellent art gallery
Tenerife’s northeast. which covers three large and light galler-
ies. Don’t miss the permanent exhibition of
History both the paintings and audiovisual exhibits
Alonso Fernández de Lugo landed on Ten- dedicated to the life and work of the Ten-
erife in 1494 to embark on the conquest of erife-born Óscar Domínguez, considered the
the final and most resistant island in the third greatest surrealist Spanish painter in
archipelago. La Laguna, which is a few kilo- Spain (after Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí).
metres inland, initially blossomed as the Temporary exhibitions often include up-
island’s capital. Santa Cruz de Santiago (as and-coming Spanish artists and reflect edgy
Santa Cruz de Tenerife was then known) re- contemporary themes.
mained a backwater until its port began to There is also a cinema, with films screened
flourish in the 18th and 19th centuries. Only at weekends; a vast library and multimedia
in 1803 was Santa Cruz ‘liberated’ from the room, with 36 internet terminals available
municipal control of La Laguna by Spanish for use, free of charge; a popular cafe and an
royal decree; in 1859 it was declared a city. excellent gift shop.
1 Sights oIglesia de Nuestra Señora

de la Concepción CHURCH
The majority of Santa Cruz’s sights and mu-
(Plaza Iglesia; h9am-9pm Sun, mass 9am &
seums are within easy walking distance of
7.30pm) It’s difficult to miss the striking bell
revamped waterfront Plaza España with
its huge circular wading pool plus fountain tower of the city’s oldest church, which also
that spouts four times a day (indicating high has traditional Mudéjar (Islamic-style archi-
and low tides). The city’s primary pedestrian tecture) ceiling work. The present church
shopping area, pedestrianised Calle Castillo, was built in the 17th and 18th centuries,
is just west of here. but the original building went up in 1498,
just after the island was conquered. At the
heart of the shimmering silver altar is the
Santa Cruz de la Conquista (Holy Cross of
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Santa Cruz de Tenerife

æ Top Sights ú Eating
1 Auditorio de Tenerife ............................. C7 19 Bodeguita Canaria...................................C4
2 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la 20 Da Canio III ............................................... C1
Concepción........................................... C4 21 El Aguarde ................................................A2
3 Museo de la Naturaleza y el 22 El Lateral 27..............................................C3
Hombre ................................................. C4 23 Gom........................................................... B1
4 Tenerife Espacio de las Artes................ C4 24 La Casita...................................................B3
25 La Hierbita................................................C4
æ Sights 26 La Llave de Las Nubes............................C3
5 Castillo de San Cristóbal........................ D3 27 Mercado de Nuestra Señora de
6 Centro de Arte La Recova...................... C4 África......................................................B5
7 Fort de San Juan ..................................... B7 28 Plaza 18.....................................................C3
8 Iglesia de San Francisco ........................ C3 29 Tasca......................................................... B1
9 Museo de Bellas Artes ........................... C3
10 Museo Militar de Almeyda......................D1 û Drinking & Nightlife
11 Parque García Sanabria......................... B2 30 Bar Zumería Doña Papaya.....................B3
12 Teatro Guimerá....................................... C4 31 Barbas Bar ...............................................D2
32 JL Murphy.................................................C4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 33 Mojos y Mojitos........................................C4
13 Parque Marítimo César
Manrique................................................A7 ý Entertainment
Auditorio de Tenerife.......................(see 1)
ÿ Sleeping Teatro Guimerá ..............................(see 12)

14 Hotel Adonis Capital............................... C3
15 Hotel Contemporáneo ............................B1 þ Shopping
16 Hotel Taburiente......................................B1 34 Carolina Boix............................................C3
17 Pensión Casablanca............................... B3 35 El Corte Inglés..........................................B6
18 Principe de Paz ....................................... C3 36 La Isla Bookshop .....................................B3
37 Rastro .......................................................C5
the Conquest), which dates from 1494 and Iglesia de San Francisco CHURCH
gives the city its name. (Calle José Murphy; h variable opening hours) If
Check out the anteroom to the sacristy. churches are your religion then don’t miss
The altarpiece in the chapel beside it was this pretty baroque church from the 17th
carved from cedar on the orders of Don and 18th centuries with its richly carved
Matías Carta, a prominent personage who ceiling and ornate altarpieces. Check at the
died before it was completed. He lies buried tourist office for information about concerts
here and the pallid portrait on the wall was held at the church.
done after his death (hence the closed eyes
Centro de Arte La Recova ART
and crossed arms). There’s also a fine paint-
(www.santacruzdetenerife.es; Plaza Isla Madera;
ing, La Adoración de los Pastores (The Ado-
h 11am-1pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sat) F Located in
ration of the Shepherds) by Juan de Miranda.
a former market, this gallery houses tempo-
Museo de Bellas Artes ART rary exhibitions of contemporary Canarian
(www.santacruzdetenerife.es; Plaza Príncipe de and mainland-Spanish artists.
Asturias; h 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun)
Teatro Guimerá NOTABLE BUILDING
F Founded in 1900 and formerly part
(www.teatroguimera.es; Plaza Isla Madera; h 11am-
of the adjacent church (note the fabulous
1pm & 6-8pm Tue-Fri) One of the city’s architec-
stained glass), this excellent museum has
an eclectic collection of paintings by mainly tural highlights is the 19th-century Teatro
Spanish, Canarian and Flemish artists, in- Guimerá, fronted by a suitably theatrical gi-
cluding Ribera, Sorolla and Brueghel. There’s ant mask sculpture. The sumptuous interior
also sculpture, including a Rodin, and tem- is reminiscent of Madrid’s Teatro Real, with
porary exhibitions. The massive battle scene semicircular balconied seating and plenty of
canvases by Spanish painter Manuel Villegas gilt.
Brieva are particularly sobering. Note that Castillo de San Cristóbal CASTLE
the galleries are accessed via several flights of (Plaza España; h 10am-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 11am-
stairs and that there is no elevator. 7pm Sat & Sun; p ) F Located underneath
1 26
Plaza España are the still-standing frag- Jul-Sep; p ) F This magnificent, soaring
ments of the former castle that once sat white wave of an auditorium was designed
majestically here. These can be accessed by by the internationally renowned Spanish
an entrance on the seaward side of the plaza architect Santiago Calatrava and possesses a
(which some people apparently mistake as Sydney Opera House presence, as well as su-
steps down to the public toilets!). There is perb acoustics. Guided multilingual tours
also a small museum here recounting the (reserved in advance via the website) will
history of the castle. take you behind the scenes of this remark-
able building.
Museo Militar de Almeyda MUSEUM
If you don’t have time for a tour or to at-
(Calle San Isidro 1; h 10am-2pm Tue-Sat) F tend a performance, at least consider hav-
Explains the military history of the islands ing a drink in the cafe within the sweeping
and the successful defence of the city, space of the main entrance. You can also
brought alive by a superb 30m scale model walk around the entirety of the building and
of the flagship Theseus. The most famous take plenty of arty shots to impress the folks
item here, however, is El Tigre (The Tiger), back home.
the cannon that reputedly blew off Admiral
Nelson’s arm when he attacked Santa Cruz Palmetum GARDENS
in 1797. (www.palmetumsantacruz.com; Avenida Con-
stitución; adult/child €6/2.80, joint ticket with
Parque García Sanabria PARK
Parque Marítimo César Manrique adult/child
(off Calle Méndez Núñez) On the northern €7.30/3.30; h 11am-1pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sun; p )
fringe of the city centre, the city park is a Opened in 2013 on a former landfill area, this
delightful collection of Mediterranean and
12-hectare botanical garden has the most

subtropical trees and flowers interspersed diverse collection of palm trees in Europe,
with sculptures, wide paths and various wa- imported from all over the world. A detailed
ter features. It’s the perfect place for a picnic mapped leaflet helps in identifying the trees,
in the shade of an Indian banyan tree and a as well as signage. It’s a peaceful place for a
lazy afternoon listening to birdsong. There wander, with strategically placed benches
is also a pleasant cafe. for contemplating the seamless sea views.
oAuditorio de Tenerife NOTABLE BUILDING
The central octagon is a shaded walled space
(% 922 27 06 11; www.auditoriodetenerife.com; with volcanic rock waterfalls designed to
Avenida Constitución; h guided tours 12.30pm accommodate the more delicate species, in-
Mon-Sat Oct-Jun, 12.30pm & 5.30pm Mon-Sat cluding climbing palms from Yucatan.
THREE PERFECT DAYS IN TENERIFE
Day One
Start your tour in Santa Cruz, fawning over the classical works in the Museo de Bellas
Artes (p125). Next head up to some natural art in the Parque García Sanabria (p126).
Get a load of how creative modern Spain can be in the Tenerife Espacio de las Artes
(p123), a modern art gallery. Then learn about life many yesterdays ago at the Museo de
la Naturaleza y el Hombre (p123) and finish your day with a stroll to the Auditorio de
Tenerife (p126) or nearby Palmetum (p126).
Day Two
Explore the gracious streets of pretty Garachico (p145), on the island’s northwest coast,
in the morning before driving west towards wild Punta de Teno (p150) at the very end
of Tenerife. Hold onto the edge of your seat on the drive to spectacular Masca (p150)
and then drop down to the seaside for some bucket-and-spade fun at Los Gigantes and
Puerto de Santiago (p151).
Day Three
Stick your head high above the clouds in the stunning Parque Nacional del Teide
(p146). The fit and fearless can make an all-day hiking assault on the summit; the fear-
less but not so fit can take it easy in the cable car ride to just below the summit. Everyone
can enjoy the easy walk around the Roques de García (p147).
127
Fort de San Juan FORT
(Avenida Constitución) The central waterfront SCULPTURE CITY
zone has undergone a major facelift and
In 1974, Santa Cruz hosted an interna-
you can now enjoy a pleasant 10-minute
tional street sculpture exhibition with
walk southwest of Plaza España to reach
leading works by iconic masters of the
the squat 17th-century Castillo de San Juan
art such as Henry Moore, Joan Miró
(don’t be misled by the name, it’s more of a
and Óscar Domínguez. Today you can
modest fortress than a castle). Stand in the
enjoy these world-class sculptures
shadow of this protective fort and contem-
while strolling around the city. Check at
plate its harrowing past when this was the
the tourist office for details on specific
site of an active trade in African slaves.
sculpture tours departing from the
2 Activities beautiful Parque García Sanabria
(p126), where several of the works are
Parque Marítimo César Manrique SWIMMING on permanent display.
(% 657 65 11 27; Avenida Constitución; adult/child
€2.50/1.50, joint ticket with Palmetum adult/child
€7.30/3.30; h 10am-7pm) Located right off the
clothes’), a tasty meat-based stew with
city’s main avenida is this park, where you
chickpeas, vegetables and potatoes. The des-
can have a dip in one of the wonderful de-
serts are similarly heartwarmingly homely
signer pools or collapse on a sunlounger and
and include torrijas, the Spanish take on
drink in the beautiful view and something
bread-and-butter pudding.
refreshing. It’s suitable for all ages, and great
for children. La Llave de Las Nubes CANARIAN €

(Calle Dr Allart 46; mains €7-10, menú del día €8;
z Festivals & Events h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) The folks behind this
As well as Carnaval, Santa Cruz plays host to delightful small restaurant are passionate
a number of other festivals. about food. Every morning they shop for
the freshest produce at the market and cre-
Festival de Música de Canarias MUSIC ate just a few choice dishes with a strong
(www.festivaldecanarias.com; h Jan & Feb) This is base in home-style traditional cooking. The
the biggest event on the serious music calen- soups are particularly delectable – try the
dar, held annually in Santa Cruz de Tenerife watercress if available. It’s always busy, so
and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (on Gran you may have to wait for a table (no res-
Canaria). ervations).
Día de la Cruz RELIGIOUS Tasca CANARIAN €
(h3 May) This day is observed throughout (Calle Dr Guigou 18; mains €6-10, menú del día €7;
the island, but particularly in Santa Cruz hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat) The cultural
(and Puerto de la Cruz), where crosses and culinary opposite to the all-day Eng-
and chapels are beautifully decorated with lish breakfasts of the southern resorts, this
flowers in celebration of the founding of neighbourhood institution makes no allow-
the city. ances for confused foreigners. The laugha-
bly cheap lunch menus (in Spanish) mean
5 Eating there’s often a queue of locals waiting for a
Chairs on squares are plentiful here, due to table and the food, which consists of huge
the friendly, gregarious nature of the locals portions of sturdy Canarian classics.
and, still more, to the sunshine. Pleasant
cafe terrazas (terraces) include those on La Casita CAFE €
Plaza Candelaria and the shaded number on (www.lacasitacafe.es; Calle Jesús Nazareno 14;
the fringe of Parque García Sanabria. mains €7-8, cakes €2.50; h 10am-midnight Tue-
Sat; W ) Managed by a fashionable young
Bodeguita Canaria CANARIAN € team, but themed like grandma’s coun-
(www.bodeguitacanaria.es; Calle Imeldo Serís 18; try cottage, this enticing cafe sports an-
mains €8-10; h 1-4pm & 8-11.30pm Mon-Sat; c ) tiques, original tile work and several cosy
This is a local favourite and has an earthy dining rooms. The emphasis is on simple
traditional atmosphere with chunky dark lightweight mains like salads, burgers and
furniture and charmingly dated decor. Try croquettes, plus wonderful cakes and pies
local dishes like ropa vieja (literally ‘old
1 28
CARNAVAL CAPERS
Channelling a true Carnaval spirit of exuberance and mayhem, Santa Cruz’s own Carna-
val (www.carnavaltenerife.com; h Feb) is a nonstop, 24-hour party-orgy. Festivities generally
kick off in early February and last about three weeks. Many of the gala performances
and fancy-dress competitions take place in the Recinto Ferial (fairgrounds) but the streets,
especially around Plaza España, become frenzied with good-natured dusk-to-dawn frivolity.
Don’t be fooled into thinking this is just a sequin-bedecked excuse to party hearty,
though. It may sometimes be hard to see or believe, but there is an underlying political
‘message’ to the whole shebang. Under the Franco dictatorship, Carnaval ground to
a halt and there didn’t seem to be too much to celebrate. The Catholic Church’s rela-
tionship with the fascists was another source of frustration so, when Carnaval was re-
launched after the death of General Franco, the citizens of Santa Cruz wasted no time in
lampooning the perceived sexual and moral hypocrisy of the church and the fascists. To-
day, you will still see a lot of people dressed for the event as naughty nuns and perverted
priests, and more drag queens than bumblebees in a buttercup field. And all in the name
of good, clean fun. Book your accommodation ahead – if you intend to go to bed, that is.
including chocolate, strawberry and the pasta. The two-dozen pizza choices are ideal
festive-sounding Baileys. for fussy families, and the pasta and risottos
come recommended, as well.
oLa Hierbita CONTEMPORARY CANARIAN €€
(% 922 24 46 17; www.lahierbita.es; Calle Clavel Plaza 18 CONTEMPORARY CANARIAN €€

19; mains €10-15; h noon-4pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, (% 922 17 30 14; Plaza San Francisco; mains €11-
noon-4pm Mon) This place oozes atmosphere. 16; h noon-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) This
And little wonder, given the history. The first fashionable place is located in one of the
restaurant to be licensed in the city, in 1893, prettiest corners of the city, overlooking
Calle Clavel back then was at the heart of the magnificent banyan trees and flower beds
red-light district; part of the current restau- with the baroque Iglesia de San Francisco
rant was actually a brothel. There is nothing as a backdrop. The decor is colourfully chic
seedy about the food, however; dishes are and the cuisine hits the mark (most of the
upmarket versions of traditional Canarian time). The menu includes risottos, gourmet
recipes. burgers, salads and tostas with a variety of
The building still retains plenty of orig- toppings, plus excellent local wines.
inal features and antique memorabilia.
Gom CONTEMPORARY CANARIAN €€
Dining rooms are spread over two creaky
(% 922 27 60 58; Calle Dr Guigou 27; mains €10-15;
wooden floors and faded old photos add to
h 1-4pm & 7-11pm; pW ) Part of the adjacent
the intrigue. The seafood dishes are particu-
Hotel Taburiente (p226), the modern menu
larly memorable, along with the pulse-based
at this sophisticated restaurant offers a cre-
soups and stews.
ative take on otherwise typical Canarian and
El Lateral 27 CANARIAN €€ mainland fare. One of the more upmarket
(Calle Béthencourt Alfonso 27; mains €10-14; places in the city centre, it’s popular with a
h 7.30am-midnight Mon-Sat; c ) Jovial staff, slick business crowd at lunchtime.
happy shoppers and a menu of tried and
El Aguarde CONTEMPORARY CANARIAN €€€
tested local dishes makes this place a peren-
(% 922 28 91 42; www.restauranteelaguardetener-
nial Santa Cruz favourite. Dishes like oxtail
ife.es; Calle Costa y Grijalba 21; mains €15-25; h 1-
(or goat) stew, sirloin in garlic sauce and
4pm Mon-Sat, 9-11pm Tue-Sat; W ) Readers are
seafood pie will not disappoint any large
raving about this special occasion place that
appetite. Veggie lovers should go elsewhere.
exudes a minimalist elegance to accompany
Da Canio III ITALIAN €€ the finely crafted dishes. The menu chang-
(Map p124; Calle San Martín 76; pizza €8-10, pasta es according to what is fresh in season, but
€10-12; h 1-4pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat; c ) With a includes a good selection of meat and fish
dining room tastefully decked out in terra- dishes and at least one vegetarian choice.
cotta and stone, this Italian-owned restau- Desserts are exquisite; try the lemon mousse
rant serves up a better class of pizza and with cava and mint.
1 29
Self-Catering 3 Entertainment
Mercado de Nuestra Señora de Bars and clubs here often double as oc-
África MARKET casional live music venues, particularly
(Avenida de San Sebastián; h 9am-2pm; p ) around Calle Antonio Domínguez Alfonso
Dating from 1944, this market has a Latin (also known as Calle Noria).
American look with its arched entrance,
clock tower and flower sellers. It’s not large oAuditorio de Tenerife LIVE MUSIC
by Spanish standards (some 140 stalls) but (% box office 902 31 73 27; www.auditoriodeten-
is still tantalising, with stalls selling moun- erife.com; Avenida Constitución; W ) Tenerife’s
tains of fresh fruit and vegetables and a vari- leading entertainment option has dramat-
ety of fish. You can also buy picnic fare such ically designed curved-white concrete shells
as bread, local cheese, wine and cold cuts. capped by a cresting, crashing wave of a
roof. It covers and significantly enhances a
2-hectare oceanfront site. The auditorium
6 Drinking & Nightlife hosts fantastic world-class opera, dance
Most of the nightlife is centred around the and classical-music performances, among
northern end of Avenida Anaga although others.
venues frequently change. For a more so-
phisticated atmosphere, head to the col- Teatro Guimerá THEATRE
ourful cafes and bars on Calle Antonio (% box office 902 33 33 38; www.teatroguimera.
Domínguez Alfonso (also known as Calle es; Plaza Isla Madera; tickets €12-18; h 11am-1pm
Noria), one of the oldest streets in the city. & 5-8pm) This fabulous art deco theatre is a
popular venue for highbrow entertainment,

Bar Zumería Doña Papaya JUICE BAR whether music or theatre.
(Calle Callao de Lima 3; juices €2-3.50; h 9am-
7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) Delicious fresh fruit 7 Shopping
juices, including strawberry, mango, papaya, The main shopping area is the pedestri-
avocado and various delectable-sounding anised Calle Castillo and surrounding
combinations. Local workers also come here streets. Increasingly home to the same-again
at lunchtime for a quick and simple meal. international chains, there is still a handful
Barbas Bar BAR of smaller family-run shops and boutiques.
(Calle Marina 9; h 6pm-2am Mon-Sat) Yes guys, if El Corte Inglés DEPARTMENT STORE
you have a barba (beard) you will be made (www.elcorteingles.es; Avenida Tres de Mayo 7;
particularly welcome at this saloon-style bar h 9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; W ) This monster-sized
across from the port. The emphasis is, fit- department store will keep you stocked in
tingly, on imported beer, with a vast choice whatever your heart desires. It also has a res-
ranging from Crabbie’s Original to Corona. taurant and an excellent, albeit pricey, super-
Good atmosphere and occasional live music. market with interesting imported goodies.
JL Murphy IRISH PUB
Rastro MARKET
(Plaza de la Concepción; h 5pm-2.30am Mon-Thu, (José Manuel Guimerá; h 9am-3pm Sun) This
to 3.30am Fri & Sat, 6.30pm-2.30am Sun; W ) This vast rambling flea market is held along two
Irish pub has a chummy atmosphere and parallel streets starting from Mercado de
Guinness on tap, but is classier than many Nuestra Señora de África and running along
Irish imports. Live music most weekends. José Manuel Guimerá to the coast every
Mojos y Mojitos BAR Sunday. It’s the usual mix, including pirat-
(Calle Antonio Domínguez Alfonso 38; h noon-mid- ed DVD movies, cut-price underwear and
night Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W ) A laid-back handmade jewellery, but is bustling and fun.
place that serves decent food during the day, La Isla Bookshop BOOKS
but at night morphs into a combination of (www.laislalibros.com; Calle Imeldo Serís 75;
cool cocktail bar and pulsating nightclub h 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat) This
with DJs and occasional live music. old-fashioned bookshop covers four floors
and has titles in English, including novels,
plus Canaries guidebooks and maps.
1 30
Carolina Boix SHOES TRAM
(www.carolinaboix.com; Calle Valentín Sanz 10; A tram line (www.metrotenerife.com) links
h 9.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8.30pm Sat) central Santa Cruz with La Laguna. Tickets cost
Carolina Boix is a Tenerife born and based €1.35 and the full journey takes 40 minutes,
shoe designer with shops throughout the making it by far the most pleasant way of travel-
Canary Islands. Made from man-made fab- ling between the two towns.
rics, her inexpensive footwear (for men and
women) is renowned for its contemporary 88 Getting Around
comfortable style. TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
From Tenerife Norte, TITSA buses 102, 107 and
88 Information 108 (€2.65, 20 minutes) go to Santa Cruz. Bus
Tourist Office (% 922 23 95 92; www.todoten- 102 (€4.75, one hour) carries on to Puerto de la
erife.es; Plaza España; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, Cruz via La Laguna, only 3km from the airport.
9.30am-1.30pm Sat) The main tourist office A taxi to Tenerife Norte will cost about €20
is located in Plaza España. Staff organise city and to Tenerife Sur, around €70.
tours at noon on Tuesday, Thursday and Satur-
day (€3, 1½ hours). BUS
TITSA buses provide the city service in Santa
88 Getting There & Away Cruz. Several buses pass regularly by the centre
(Plaza General Weyler and Plaza España) from
BUS the bus station, including 910 and 914. Other
TITSA buses radiate out from the bus station local services include the circular routes 920
(Map p124; www.titsa.com; Avenida Tres de and 921. A local trip costs €1.25.
Mayo) beside Avenida Constitución. Popular
Te n e ri fe L a L ag u na
routes: CAR
Bus 102 Puerto de la Cruz (€5.25, 55 minutes, Paid parking stations can be found underneath
every 30 minutes) via La Laguna and Tenerife Plaza España and within the Mercado de Nuestra
Norte Señora de África off Avenida de San Sebastián.
Bus 103 Puerto de la Cruz direct (€5.25, 40 TAXI
minutes, more than 15 daily) The major taxi stands are on Plaza España and
Bus 110 Los Cristianos and Playa de las Améri- at the bus station.
cas direct (€9, one hour, every 30 minutes)
Bus 325 Los Gigantes (€7.10, two hours, six
daily)
Bus 350 La Orotava (€1.45, 45 minutes, two
THE NORTHEAST
daily)
Buses 014 & 015 La Laguna (€1.45, 20 min-
utes, every 10 minutes) La Laguna
POP 153,000
CAR & MOTORCYCLE La Laguna is widely considered to be the
Car-rental companies (some also rent out mo- most beautiful town in Tenerife. An easy day
torcycles) are plentiful. Major operators also trip from Santa Cruz or Puerto de la Cruz, the
have booths at the estación marítima (ferry historic town centre is a gem, with narrow
terminal). poker-straight streets flanked by pastel-hued
historic mansions, inviting bars and idiosyn-
cratic small shops. Its layout provided the
BONO BUS
model for many colonial towns in the Amer-
If you’ll be travelling much by public icas and, in 1999, La Laguna was added to
transport then it’s worth investing in a the Unesco list of World Heritage sites. The
BonVia or Bono Bus card (www.titsa. town has a youthful energy and possibly the
com). Valid on all TITSA buses through- island’s most determined marcha (nightlife).
out the island, as well as the Santa
Cruz tram network, they provide a 30% 1 Sights
discount on standard fares. Cards cost The main sights are all located in the his-
from €7.50 (12 trips) to €45 (a monthly toric centre of town. Don’t worry too much
ticket for frequent users) and can be if you get lost; this whole barrio (district)
bought from any bus or tram station as is like an outdoor museum of historical ar-
well as some newspaper kiosks. chitecture.
1 31
LA LAGUNA’S CANARIAN MANSIONS

Bright facades graced with wooden double-doors, carved balconies and grey stone
embellishments typify the pristinely preserved 16th- to 18th-century mansions of La
Laguna, while elegant, wood-shuttered windows conceal cool, shady patios surrounded
by 1st-storey verandas propped up by slender timber columns.
Calle San Agustín and the surrounding streets are lined with fine old houses. Take a
look at the beautiful facade of Casa del Montañés (Calle San Agustín 16; h 10am-7pm
Mon-Fri) with its decorative carved window frames. Destroyed by a fire in 2006, Casa
Salazar (Calle San Agustín 28; h 10am-7pm Mon-Fri) has a beautiful, if austere, baroque
facade and two lovely patios; it is now used for offices. The imposing Casa de los Cap-
itanes (Calle Carrera 7; h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun) is beside the ayuntamiento
(town hall) and houses the tourist office. The distinctive blue facade of the mansion at
Calle Carrera 66 is the former home of surrealist painter Óscar Domínguez.
Both the exterior and interior of the 19th-century Teatro Leal (Leal Theatre; www.tea-
troleal.com; Calle Obispo Rey Redondo 54) is a pleasingly over-the-top butterfly of a building
that is open to the public only during performances.
Whenever you see an open door, peek inside – with luck the inner sanctum will also be
open, but do remember that many are private residences or offices.
oMuseo de la Historia de Tenerife MUSEUM of the islands’ premier 18th-century artists,

and a splendid Carrara marble pulpit that
Te n e ri fe LS
(Casa Lercaro; www.museosdetenerife.org; Calle
San Agustín 22; adult/child €3/1.50; h 10am-8pm was carved by Genovese sculptor, Pasquale
Tue-Sun) The documents, maps, artefacts and Bocciardo in 1762.
descriptions are interesting enough at this
Convento de Santa Clara CONVENT, MUSEUM
museum, but the 16th-century mansion it-
Ta
(cnr Calles Anchieta & Viana; adult/child €5/free;
h
igeLhag
self is noteworthy with its elaborately carved
h 10am-5pm Tue, Thu & Sat) Of all the convents
wooden gallery and lovely patio. Don’t miss
Nts
in La Laguna, this is the most interesting,
ourna
the two magnificent 18th- and 19th-century
renowned for its beautiful lattice-work
carriages housed in a separate exhibition
t h east
wooden balcony and cloister. The museum
space at the rear of the museum.
covers nine rooms and contains some of the
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la most precious artworks and artefacts from
Concepción CHURCH the convent collection, including a magnif-
(Plaza Concepción; tower €2; h 8.30am-1.30pm icent 18th-century silver altar. A 10-minute
& 6-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30pm Sat, 7.30am-2pm audiovisual presentation (in English and
& 4.30-8pm Sun) Constructed in 1502, one Spanish) explains the fascinating history of
of the island’s earliest churches has subse- the convent from its founding in 1547 by 10
quently undergone many changes. Elements Franciscan nuns.
of Gothic and plateresque styles can still be
Fundación Cristino de Vera GALLERY
distinguished and the finely wrought wood-
(www.fundacioncristinodevera.com; Calle San
en Mudéjar (Islamic-style architecture) ceil-
Agustín 18; adult/child €3/free; h 11am-2pm
ings are a delight. Take a look at the font
& 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) La Lagu-
where apparently (any remaining) Guanch-
na’s prime arts venue houses a mixture of
es were traditionally baptised, then climb
top-calibre temporary exhibitions as well
the five-storey tower for stunning views of
as a permanent collection of works by ac-
the town and beyond.
claimed contemporary artist Cristino de
Catedral CATHEDRAL Vera who was born in Santa Cruz de Tener-
(www.catedraldelalaguna.blogspot.com.es; Plaza ife in 1931. There is also a thought-provoking
Catedral; h 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) This audiovisual presentation about the artist
cathedral was completely rebuilt in 1913. A and his work which is subtitled in English.
fine baroque retable in the chapel is dedi-
Iglesia de Santo Domingo CHURCH
cated to the Virgen de los Remedios and
(Calle Santo Domingo; h 10am-7pm) Originally
dates from the 16th century. Other high-
a hermitage and expanded in the 17th cen-
lights include some impressive paintings
tury, this church contains paintings by de
by Cristóbal Hernández de Quintana, one
1 32
Quintana, as well as vivid murals painted in Located about 1.5km south of Plaza Ade-
the 20th century by Mariano de Cossío and lantado and easily accessible by the tram to
Antonio González Suárez. There are tempo- Santa Cruz (which stops right outside), it also
rary art exhibitions plus a small ecclesiasti- has a planetarium, so you can stargaze dur-
cal museum. ing the day.
Santuario del Cristo CHURCH
(Santuario del Santísimo Cristo de La Laguna; Plaza
z Festivals & Events
Corpus Christi RELIGIOUS
San Francisco; h 8am-1pm & 4-8.45pm Mon-Thu
(h Jun) Celebrated with gusto in La Laguna
& Sat, to 9pm Fri & Sun) At the northern end
of the old quarter, this church contains a (the date changes annually, but it’s always
blackened wooden sculpture of Christ – the in June) and also La Orotava, where mam-
most venerated crucifix on the island. Be as moth floral carpets, using tonnes of volcanic
respectful as possible inside, as most of the dirt, flower petals, leaves and branches, are
people here are praying, not sightseeing. painstakingly designed into intricate bibli-
cal scenes in the streets and plazas.
Convento de Santa Catalina CONVENT
Romería de San Benito Abad RELIGIOUS
(Plaza Adelantado; adult/child €3/free; h10am-
(h 1st Sun in Jul) This is one of the most im-
5pm) The closed order in this convent is
still active. On 15 February each year the portant fiestas in La Laguna, held in honour
remarkably well-preserved body of Sister of the patron saint of farmers and crops.
María de Jesús de León Delgado, who died Fiesta del Santísimo Cristo RELIGIOUS
in 1731, is rather ghoulishly put on display. (h 7-15 Sep) This annual festival includes reli-
The convent also contains a small religious
Te n e ri fe LFT estivals
gious processions, traditional music and an

museum. impressive fireworks display.
Iglesia y Ex-convento de San
Agustín CHURCH
5 Eating
(Calle San Agustín; h 10am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 3pm Sat For the best choice of restaurants, head for
a
h eL ag
& Sun) This ruined church is out of bounds, the grid of streets surrounding the cathedral.
N ourna
but you can peer through the gap in the wall Tasca 61 ORGANIC €
at the cactuses and other plants busy re- (Calle Viana 61; mains €7-9; h 12.30-3.30pm &
t h&
claiming the building’s structure. The clois- 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Fri, 7.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun)
ters, filled with tropical plants and flowers,
east
S Organic, locally sourced produce and a

E vents
which are open to the public, are probably slow-food philosophy are the hallmarks of
the prettiest in town. The rooms surround- this tiny place with its limited but delicious
ing the cloisters contain an art gallery of fre- menu of daily specials. Even the beer is lo-
quently changing local works. cally crafted at the only eco-brewery in Ten-
Museo de la Ciencia y el Cosmos MUSEUM erife: Tierra de Perros.
(% 922 31 52 65; www.museosdetenerife.org; Calle
El Tonique CANARIAN €
Vía Láctea; adult/child/student €5/free/3.50, plane-
(% 922 26 15 29; www.tascaeltonique.es; Calle
tarium €1; h 9am-7pm Tue-Sun; p ) If you enjoy
Heraclio Sánchez 23; mains €8.50-12; h 1-5pm &
pushing buttons and musing on the forces 8-11pm Tue-Sat, 8-11pm Mon) Head downstairs
of nature, you can have fun at this museum to this cosy restaurant, its walls lined with
which introduces key scientific concepts in dusty bottles of wine. These are but a sample
an engaging and thought-provoking way.
BEHIND-THE-SCENES TOURS
Much of the interest and beauty of La Laguna is hidden away behind heavy doors and
walls from prying tourist eyes; if you want to get a more in-depth feel for the town, it’s
worth joining one of the frequent guided tours (h tours at 10.30am, noon & 4pm Mon-Fri,
10.30am & noon Sat & Sun ) F organised by the tourist office. Tours are free and are
in Spanish (though with 48 hours advance notice the tourist office can cobble together
a tour in English, German or French). Tours, which leave from the tourist office, take in
most of the buildings and churches mentioned here as well as a number of other historic
buildings that cannot be visited independently.
133
of more than 250 different varieties quietly
maturing in Tonique’s cellars. The food is
FEAST LIKE A LOCAL:
very good and worth the wait for a table (it’s
GUACHINCHES
popular for lunch) and a plate of setas con
gambas (oyster mushrooms with prawns). A garden shed, family sitting room,
empty garage… these are just a few of
oGuaydil CONTEMPORARY CANARIAN €€
the typical locations where you can find
(www.restauranteguaydil.com; Calle Dean Palahí guachinches; no-frills eateries serving
26; mains €8-14; h 1.30-4.40pm & 8-11.30pm Mon- home-cooked traditional meals for less
Sat; W ) You can’t go wrong at this delightful than €10. Particularly prevalent in the
contemporary restaurant with its punchy, north, and very popular at weekends,
playful decor. Dishes are deftly executed, ex- guachinches are difficult to find if you’re
quisitely presented and sensibly priced. One not a local in the know. One way to
tip – if ordering a salad, ask for a half por- savvy up is to download the android or
tion, they won’t object; they are huge (and Apple app: guachapp. There is also a
recommended). Other typical dishes include Guachinches de Tenerife Facebook page
oriental couscous, prawn-stuffed crêpes and with regularly updated information.
an irresistible Cuban mojito sorbet.
oMercado de San Pablo MARKET €€

88 Information
(www.mercadossanpablo.com; Calle Herradores
Tourist Office (% 922 63 11 94; www.todoten-
59; snacks €2-5, mains €9-15; h 10am-11pm Mon-
erife.es; Calle Carrera 7; h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri,
Wed, to midnight Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 1-9pm Sun; to 2pm Sat & Sun) In a lovely old house with an
W ) This sophisticated cosmopolitan market
Te n e ri fe S
inner courtyard; ask for the fascinating San Cris-
would look happily at home in Manhattan. tóbal de La Laguna, World Heritage Site brochure.
Over 30 foodstands and bars cover a wide
range of cuisines all given the gourmet 88 Getting There & Away
treatment, and including Cuban, Asian,
Th
D
There is a stream of buses going to Santa Cruz.
Japanese, Mexican, Lebanese and Italian.
an
r einking
Bus 015 (€1.35, 25 minutes) is best, as it takes
Self-caterers can pick up German breads,
N
you straight to Plaza España. The tram system
Ao
local cheeses and baked goodies. Live jazz
nd
also links the two towns. A one-way ticket costs
r trh
provides the ideal backdrop. €1.35. Buses 101, 102 and 103 also offer a reg-
és
ular service to Puerto de la Cruz (€4.10, one
6 Drinking
east
hour). If La Orotava (€3.15, 1½ hours) is your
& A r o u nd
Thirsty students comprise the town’s night- goal, take bus 62.
life, and the bulk of the bars are concen- Finding a parking space on the streets is
trated in a tight rectangle northeast of the migraine-inducing. There’s an underground
university, known as El Cuadrilátero. At its pay car park beneath Plaza San Cristóbal, but if
heart, pedestrianised Plaza Zurita is simply possible come on public transport.
two parallel lines of bars and pubs, so there’s
no shortage of quaffing choice.
San Andrés & Around
Strasse BAR
The village of San Andrés, all narrow, shady
(Calle Doctor Antonio González 17; h 6pm-3am; W )
streets lined with fishers’ cottages painted in
A moodily lit bar with a great range of cock- primary colours, is 6km northeast of Santa
tails and imported beers, plus giant-screen Cruz. It is distinguished by the now-crumbled
music videos and an atmosphere that never round tower that once protected the town,
misses a beat, thanks to the steady crowd of plus some good seafood restaurants.
toe-tapping regulars.
Pub Gabbana CLUB r Beaches
(% 922 00 00 00; Calle Doctor Antonio González 11; Playa de las Teresitas BEACH
h 6pm-2am) A heaving nightclub that is also The golden sands of Playa de las Teresitas,
increasingly popular for its karaoke nights just beyond San Andrés village, were im-
and contests – just in case you feel a Whit- ported from the Sahara. It’s a lovely beach
ney Houston moment coming on. Located in where the sunbathers are almost exclusively
the heart of the clubbing area and generally Spanish, whether local or from the main-
packed with a lively bunch of students. land. Limited parking is available and it’s
safe for children to swim here.
134
5 Eating mar were a popular resort but today they’re
Bar El Peton SEAFOOD € slightly down at heel, and the only visitors
(% 922 59 11 29; Calle Aparejo; mains €7-9; h 7am- are Northern Europeans in search of win-
7pm) This cute little place is located next to ter sun and locals out for some salt air. De-
San Andrés’ crumbled tower. There are just spite this less-than-rosy picture, the area
three or four tables that are normally buried is a pleasant break from Santa Cruz and
under a mountain of superlative seafood. La Laguna and the surrounding mountain
scenery is spectacular. Continuing north-
88 Getting There & Away west from El Socorro, you reach the scrappy
seaside resort of Bajamar (via Tejina). You
There are frequent 910 buses (€1.25, 20 min-
utes) from Santa Cruz to San Andrés, continuing
can swim in large artificial rock pools awash
on to Playa de las Teresitas. with Atlantic rollers, which are popular with
locals.
Three kilometres northeast, Punta del Hi-
dalgo is a more interesting place, although
Taganana & the Anaga don’t expect any crumbling cobbles or me-
Mountains dieval churches. Like most of the towns in
The rugged Anaga mountains sprawling this region, Punta is comparatively modern,
across the far northeast corner of the island its charm being the dramatic ocean location
offer some of the most spectacular scenery backed by soaring craggy mountains. Stroll
and hiking trails in Tenerife. If hiking isn’t along the boardwalk, stopping for a coffee,
your idea of fun, then you can still get a feel cerveza (beer) or fishy meal at Cofradia de
for the mountains by driving the numerous Pescadores (% 922 15 69 54; Punta del Hidalgo;
Te n e ri fe Taganana
switchbacks of the TF-12 road, which links mains €10-16; h 1-4pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat) across
La Laguna and San Andrés. It’s also worth from the harbour. The whole coastline here
making the short, and steep, detour to Taga- is excellent surfing country, with some of the
nana along the TF-134. best-quality spots on the north coast packed
Th
E
There’s little to see in the small town into a tight area.

ating
of Taganana, but it’s only a few more kilo-

e N o r t h&
metres north to the coast and Roque de 88 Getting There & Away
las Bodegas, which has a number of small
Bus 105 runs to Bajamar (€1.45, one hour) and
restaurants and bars. Local surfers favour its Punta del Hidalgo (€1.45, 1¼ hours) every 30
east
beach – and, even more so, the rocky strand minutes from Santa Cruz via La Laguna.
t h e A naga M o u ntains
of Almáciga, 1.25km eastwards.

For serious exploration of these mist
shrouded peaks, though, you need to leave
the road behind and strike out on foot. The
Tacoronte & Around
main visitors centre is the Cruz del Carmen, Tacoronte is located in the heart of one of
which sits a little under halfway between La the island’s most important wine regions.
Laguna and Taganana on the TF-12 road. Downhill from the modern town centre is
Filled with tweeting birds you never actually the signposted Iglesia de Santa Catalina –
see, the laurel forests surrounding the visitors a bright little whitewashed church built in
centre are a jungle of twisted trees coated in the Canaries’ colonial style. You’ll also see a
moisture-retaining mosses. Through this for- handful of traditional old houses, but other-
est wind several well-marked trails, including wise there’s not too much to see here.
a five-minute one suitable for wheelchairs and
strollers. Another easy 1.8km, approximately 1 Sights
half-hour return walk, is to the Llano de los Casa del Vino La Baranda MUSEUM
Loros – a stunning viewpoint. The visitors (% 922 57 25 35; www.casadelvinotenerife.com;
centre can supply details of these and much Autopista del Norte, El Sauzal; h 10.30am-6.30pm
more taxing walks around here. Tue, 9am-9pm Wed-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; p ) F
This museum, located in a traditional Canar-
ian country house in El Sauzal, is devoted to
P unta del Hidalgo & wine and its production and also offers wine
tasting for a nominal cost. It’s a charming
Around place, with some beautiful views of El Tei-
Once the pebble beaches and swimming de on a clear day. There is a well-regarded
pools around Punta del Hidalgo and Baja- restaurant and, during July and August, the
135
TENERIFE TIPPLES
The wine of Tenerife (and the Canaries in general) isn’t well known internationally, but it’s
starting to earn more of a name for itself. The best-known, and first to earn the DO grade (de-
nominación de origen), which certifies high standards and regional origin, is the red Tacoron-
te Acentejo. Also worth a tipple are the wines produced in Icod de los Vinos and Guimar.
The Casa del Vino La Baranda (p134) in El Sauzal offers wine tasting. Other local tip-
ples include La Dorada lager-style beer brewed in Santa Cruz de Tenerife and the Canary
Islands first ecological craft brewery based in Los Realejos: Tierra de Perros (www.face-
book.com/CervezaArtesanalTierraDePerros), producing pale ale and stout varieties of ale.
central courtyard becomes a tasteful venue History

for classical-music concerts every other Tues- Until it was declared an independent town
day from 8.30pm. in the early 20th century, Puerto de la Cruz
The adjacent Casa de la Miel (House of was merely the port of the wealthier area of
Honey) adds a sweet note to your trip with La Orotava. Bananas, wine, sugar and coch-
its informative displays about local honey ineal (dye-producing insects) were exported
production. from here and a substantial bourgeois class
The museum is well signposted just be- developed in the 1700s. In the 1800s the
yond the El Sauzal exit from the motorway. English arrived, first as merchants and later
as sun-seeking tourists, marking the begin-
Te n e ri fe P
ning of the tourist transformation that char-
Cristo de los Dolores WINE acterises the town today.
(h Sep) Held on the first Sunday after 15 Sep-
tember, Cristo de los Dolores is Tacoronte’s 1 Sights
FT estivals
big fiesta, with harvest festivities and wine The Plaza Europa, a balcony of sorts built
h
u e rNto
tasting. in 1992, may be a modern addition, but it
blends well with the historic surroundings
o rde
88 Getting There & Away and is a good place to start your visit. The
t h &laE vents
Bus 108 links these towns to Santa Cruz (€2.75, tourist office is also conveniently here, lo-
40 minutes) every 30 minutes or hourly (de- cated in the Casa de la Aduana (Calle Lonjas;
pending on the time of day). h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun), the old
customs house (built in 1620), where now Cruz
you can also find quality arts and crafts for
THE NORTH sale. Opposite is the Ayuntamiento (Town
Hall), which was a banana-packaging facto-
ry until 1973. Several Canarian mansions,
many of them in poor repair, dot the town
P uerto de la Cruz centre.
POP 32,665
Puerto de la Cruz is the elder statesman Museo de Arte Contemporáneo ART
of Tenerife tourism, with a history of wel- (Casa de la Aduana, Calle Lonjas; adult/child €1.50/
coming foreign visitors that dates back to free; h 10am-2pm Mon-Sat) The first contem-
the late 19th century, when it was a spa porary art museum to open in Spain, dating
destination popular with genteel Victorian from 1953, this well-displayed collection
ladies. These days the town is a charming includes such outstanding foreign, Spanish
resort with real character. There are stylish and Canarian artists as Will Faber, Óscar
boardwalks, beaches with safe swimming, Domínguez and César Manrique. The set-
traditional restaurants, a leafy central pla- ting, in the historic former customs house,
za, lots of pretty parks and gardens and is almost as inspiring as the artwork.
plenty to see and do. There are also plenty
of predominately German tourists and for- Museo Arqueológico MUSEUM
eign residents here, hence the proliferation (Archaeological Museum; www.museosdetenerife.

of bakeries selling delicious German-style org; Calle Lomo 9; adult/child €1/free; h 10am-1pm
breads and cakes. & 5-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) This small but
well laid-out museum provides an insight
1 36
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A B C D E F G
1 37
into the Guanche way of life with its replicas
of a typical cave dwelling, as well as a burial
Puerto de la Cruz
cave where pots and baked-clay adornments æ Top Sights
share the same burial area, demonstrating 1 Risco Belle Aquatic Gardens...............F4
the Guanches’ belief in an afterlife. The most
æ Sights
interesting exhibit is a tiny clay idol – one of
2 Ayuntamiento.........................................F1
only a few ever found. 3 Casa de la Aduana .................................E1
4 Castillo de San Felipe ...........................A3
Plaza Charco SQUARE
Ermita de San Juan ...................... (see 6)
The translation for this magnificent cen- 5 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la
tral square is Puddle Plaza, named because Peña de Francia .................................E2
it used to flood from the sea every time 6 Iglesia de San Francisco ......................E2
there was a storm. Shaded by Indian lau- 7 Mirador de la Paz ..................................E4
rel trees and Canary palms, it’s the town’s 8 Museo Arqueológico ............................D2
meeting-and-greeting place with kiosks, 9 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo ..........E1
benches and a children’s playground, 10 Plaza Charco .........................................D2
11 Sitio Litre Garden................................. G4
flanked by bars and restaurants.
12 Torreon de Ventoso..............................E3
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de
la Peña de Francia CHURCH
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
13 El Cardumen..........................................B4
(Calle Quintana; h8am-6pm) This pretty
14 Mountain Bike Active ...........................C3
17th-century church boasts three naves, a
wooden Mudéjar ceiling and the image of ÿ Sleeping
Gran Poder de Dios, one of the town’s most 15 Hotel Monopol.......................................E2
Te n e ri fe P
revered saints. The church is fronted by 16 Hotel Sun Holidays ...............................C2
lush landscaped gardens. 17 Hotel Tigaiga..........................................F4
Iglesia de San Francisco CHURCH ú Eating

(Calle Quintana; h variable opening hours) Located 18 El Limón ................................................. F2
Th
S ig
u ehrNts
just off Puerto’s central (and famed) Plaza del 19 El Maná...................................................C2
Charco is the Iglesia de San Francisco, tacked 20 La Confradía de Pescadores ................E1
to
o rde
21 La Papaya ..............................................D2
on to tiny Ermita de San Juan, the oldest
22 La Rosa di Bari ......................................C2
t h la C r u z
structure in town (built in 1599). 23 Meson los Gemelos ..............................D3
24 Restaurante Mil Sabores ..................... D1
Castillo de San Felipe CASTLE
25 Selma & Louisa .....................................D2
(% 922 37 30 39; Paseo Luis Lavaggi 12) This
26 Tapas Arcón ..........................................E3
modest castle, located beside Playa Jardín,
plays host to a variety of temporary art ex- û Drinking & Nightlife
hibitions and regular theatre and dance per- 27 Agora ......................................................C2
formances. It was closed for refurbishment 28 Azucar ................................................... G2
at research time, however; check at the tour- Bar Dinámico............................... (see 10)
ist office for an update. 29 Ebano Café ............................................ F2
Torreon de Ventoso TOWER ý Entertainment

(Calle Valois) One of the better-kept historic 30 Blanco Bar .............................................E3
buildings in Puerto, this tower once formed
part of the town’s Augustine convent and
was used to keep watch over the port. herb garden and a giant 200-year-old Aus-
tralian gum tree.
oJardín Botánico GARDENS The garden is well signposted if you are
(% 922 92 29 81; Calle Retama 2; adult/child €3/ driving. Alternatively, the majority of inter-
free; h 9am-6pm; p ) Established in 1788, this urban buses make a stop near here on their
magnificent botanical garden has thousands way out of town. A taxi will cost around €8.
of plant varieties from all over the world
and is a delightful place in which to while oRisco Belle Aquatic Gardens GARDENS
away an afternoon smelling the roses. As (Parque Taoro; adult/child €4/free; h 9.30am-6pm;
well as the major collections of tropical and p ) This is not just any old garden; step
subtropical plants, there is a wide variety through the entrance and you are met by a
of palms from all over the world, a fragrant sweeping lawn punctuated with tables and
138
chairs, citrus trees and tropical plants, like ma. You could walk here from town, but it’s
birds of paradise and poinsettias. In the his- much easier to hop on the free train that
toric main house, a cafe serves drinks and leaves every 20 minutes from outside Mc-
snacks. For a small admission fee you can also Donald’s on Plaza Reyes Católicos.
visit the magnificent aquatic gardens with
herons, dragonflies, a mock lookout tower r Beaches
and benches for quiet contemplation. Puerto de la Cruz is home to several beaches,
With a backdrop of green and birdsong, all of them largely sheltered from waves and
these gardens feel a world away from the perfect for young children. In the heart of
clamour of the coast. Don’t miss them. the town are the rocky and attractive coves
Sitio Litre Garden GARDENS
around the little port just below the Paseo
(www.jardindeorquideas.com; Camino Robado;
San Telmo.
adult/child €4.75/free; h9.30am-5pm) This de- Playa Martiánez BEACH
lightful garden is exquisitely laid out with (Avenida de Colón) The long sandy Playa Mar-
walkways, fountains, tropical and subtropi- tiánez is located at the eastern end of town.
cal plants and flowers, plus the oldest drago A large jetty filters down the anger of Atlan-
(dragon) tree in town. The highlight is, nat- tic swells and turns them into mere gentle
urally enough, the orchid walk through the rollers, perfect for learning to surf on. The
greenhouse with its well displayed and signed beach itself consists of soft, black sand.
orchids. There is an inviting terrace cafe and
a (surprisingly tacky) gift shop. The gardens Playa Jardín BEACH
have an interesting British-based history, (Paseo Luis Lavagi; p ) This dark-sand ‘garden
Te n e ri fe P
which you can read about in the free leaflet. beach’ west of the centre has good facilities,
Take note of the croquet lawn with including toilets and showers. Huge boul-
everything in place ready for a game. Well, ders and rocks were dumped in the sea here
aside from the cucumber sandwiches, that is... to prevent the sand being swept away.
2 Activities
Th
B
Mirador de la Paz SQUARE

u
eac
e rNto
(Carreterade Taoro) This square with great

Lago Martiánez SWIMMING
hoes
views is where Agatha Christie was suppos- (% 922 37 05 72; Avenida de Colón; adult/child
rde
edly inspired to write the novel The Mys- €3.50/1.20; h 10am-sunset) Designed by
t h la C r u z
terious Mr Quin. This is also a good spot Canario César Manrique, the watery play-
to stride out from and discover the town’s ground of Lago Martiánez has four saltwater
magnificent parks and gardens. pools and a large central ‘lake’. It can get just
Loro Parque ZOO as crowded as the surrounding small volcan-
(% 922 37 38 41; www.loroparque.com; Calle Aveni- ic beaches. Swim, sunbathe or grab a bite at
da Loro Parque; adult/child €34/23; h 8.30am- one of the many restaurants and bars.
6.45pm; p ) Travelling around Tenerife, the
Der Wanderstab HIKING
Loro Parque flag is so ubiquitous that you (% 922 37 60 07; www.derwanderstab.de; tour
could be forgiven for thinking they spon- €25-50) Local guides meet hikers at the bus
sor Tenerife. But we’ll give them their due station, from where they set out on several
because where else can you see over 350 hikes, including El Teide and the northwest.
species of parrots (the world’s largest col- They aim very much at a German audience;
lection) at once? Today its animal portfolio however, the guides generally have an excel-
has grown to include tigers, gorillas and lent command of English as well. Book via
chimpanzees. Note that the park also keeps the website.
captive orcas and dolphins, which perform
in shows; however, research indicates such El Cardumen DIVING, GLIDING
captivity is debilitating and stressful for (% 670 38 30 07; www.elcardumen.com; Avenida
these creatures, and is exacerbated by hu- Melchor Luz 3) Offers a range of diving cours-
man interaction. es including an introductory ‘try dive’. If you
Other exhibits include a penguin house prefer to soar like a bird rather than swim
complete with ‘real’ snow and a subterra- like a fish, it also offers paragliding.
nean aquarium with the world’s longest
submarine tunnel. There is also a variety
of other attractions including an HD cine-
1 39
GETTING ACTIVE ON TENERIFE

Possibly no other island in the archipelago offers so many opportunities to burn off calo-
ries than Tenerife. Windsurfing, kitesurfing, diving, hiking, fishing, golf and cycling are all
not just possible here, but almost impossible to avoid. For water sports most facilities are
concentrated in and around the southwestern resort areas, although the north coast has
a wide variety of surf spots.
Tenerife is marvellous for hiking and climbing, with plenty of scope ranging from
easy rambles to mountain assaults. For the most dramatic scenery, choose from the
many trails within the Parque Nacional del Teide. Other attractive areas are the Anaga
mountains in the northeast and around the Valle de la Orotava. There are numerous
companies offering guided walks, as well as the rangers at El Teide. Check the following
websites and ask at any tourist office for details:
¨¨www.pateatusmontes.com
¨¨www.gregorio-teneriffa.de, in German
¨¨www.trekking-tenerife.com
¨¨www.caminantesdeaguere.com
Mountain Bike Active CYCLING ticing smell of freshly baked cinnamon rolls
(% 922 37 60 81; www.mtb-active.com; Edificio to this Swedish mother-and-daughter-run
Te n e ri fe P
Daniela 26, Calle Mazaroco; bike rental per day from eco-friendly cafe with its tasty breakfast
€30; h 9.30am-1.30pm & 5-7pm) Located across choice including homemade granola, scram-
from the (now derelict) former bus station, bled eggs and fluffy pancakes. The daily
this company organises biking trips to El made soups are equally good. Plus there are
Teide and around. healthy sandwich combos, quiches and gor-
FT estivals
h
u e rNto
geous cakes.
z Festivals & Events Meson los Gemelos CANARIAN €
o rde
Carnaval CULTURAL
(% 922 37 01 33; Calle Peñón 4; mains €8-10; h noon-
(h Feb) Not to be outdone by Santa Cruz,
t h &laE vents
11pm Thu-Tue; pc ) This is a friendly restaurant
Puerto de la Cruz holds its own riotous Car-
with a great atmosphere; the house speciali-
naval celebration each February.
ty is grilled meats. There’s a covered interior
Cruz
San Juan RELIGIOUS barn-size patio decorated with hanging plants
(h 23 Jun) Held on the eve of the saint’s day. and agricultural paraphernalia. Increasingly
Bonfires light the sky and, in a throwback to popular with tourists, you can expect queues
Guanche times, goats are driven for a dip in at the door. Reserve ahead.
the sea off Playa Jardín.
El Limón VEGETARIAN €
Fiesta de los Cacharros CULTURAL (Calle Esquivel 4; mains €7-10; h noon-11pm Mon-
(h 29 Nov) Held in Puerto de la Cruz (and Sun; v ) A bright vegetarian restaurant with
Taganana), this is a quaint festival where a menu consisting of veggie burgers, seitan
children rush through the streets, dragging kebabs, salads and fresh fruit juices, among
behind them a string of old pots, kettles, others. It also does a good-value set-lunch
pans, car spares, tin cans – just about any- menu (€10) and the clientele is almost ex-
thing that will make a racket. clusively local.
Tapas Arcón
5 Eating TAPAS €
(Calle Blanco 8; tapas €3-4.50; h noon-3pm &
Head to the former fishers’ quarter of La 5-10pm Mon-Sat) Papas arrugadas (wrinkly
Ranilla, just a couple of streets northeast of potatoes) with mojo (spicy salsa), or the
Plaza Charco, for some of the town’s most Arcón special sauces of almond and sweet
innovative new restaurants. pepper or parsley and coriander are the
Selma & Louisa SWEDISH €
must-have tapas here.
(Calle Lomo 18, La Ranilla; breakfast €4.50-5;
h 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun; v ) S Follow the en-
140
oTito’s Bodeguita CANARIAN €€ in a lovely old house with several romantic
(% 647 93 34 33; www.titosbodeguita.com; Cami- dining rooms, this unassuming little place
no de Duraznol; mains €10-16; h 12.30-11pm is actually one of the classiest restaurants
Mon-Sat; p ) Despite the mildly offputting in town. Enjoy innovative dishes like black
location right off a busy roundabout, a few tagliatelle with courgettes and prawns and
kilometres south of the town centre, the pa- fish with a mustard crust.
tios, flower-filled gardens and atmospheric
La Papaya CANARIAN €€
interior of this 18th-century country man-
(% 922 38 28 11; Calle Lomo 10, La Ranilla; mains
sion are a delight; there is even an attached
€10-16; h noon-4pm & 7-11pm Thu-Tue; c ) This
hermitage. The portions are huge and best
longtime favourite has a series of small din-
for sharing with dishes based on traditional
ing rooms with rock-face walls and a pretty
Canarian cuisine with an innovative twist.
patio set around a magnificent tree draped
Hugely popular so book ahead.
with bougainvillea. There are Canarian
To get here take the TF-312 towards Arenas,
touches to the menu, including the succu-
merging onto the TF-31 towards the Autopista
lent salmon in malvasía (Malmsey wine)
Norte, then onto the TF-5; Tito’s is located just
sauce, plus a wide choice for children.
beyond exit 35. Alternatively, hop into a taxi
(approximately €7 from the town centre).
6 Drinking & Nightlife
El Maná ORGANIC, VEGETARIAN €€ Puerto de la Cruz has a steamy Latino club
(www.elmana.es; Mequínez 21, La Ranilla; mains €9- scene with several bars and nightclubs on
16; h 1-4pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sun; v ) S Choose Calle Obispo Pérez Cáceres; names change
from innovative, fresh and delicious dishes as often as the tide.
Te n e ri fe P
that obviously (being organic) change de-

pending on what is fresh in the vegetable Bar Dinámico BAR
patch that week. Expect unusual combina- (www.dinamicopuertodelacruz.com; Plaza Char-

tions like handmade sour apple ravioli with co; h 9am-midnight; W ) Bars and cafes come
raisins, and vegetable couscous with an ajob- and go in Puerto but the Dinámico has
Th
D
been around since the ’50s in one form or

u
r einking
lanco (almond-based) sauce. End on a sweet

another and has counted the Beatles and
rNto
note with the vanilla-and-mango pannacotta.

Agatha Christie among former patrons. It’s a
o rde
Restaurante Mil Sabores MEDITERRANEAN €€ sprawling terraced place in the centre of Pla-
t h& la
(% 922 36 81 72; Calle Cruz Verde 5, La Ranilla; za Charco with a Latin American vibe and
N igC h
mains €12-18; h noon-11pm) Styling itself as a more character than most places encircling
temple to modern Mediterranean cooking, the square.
r tlife
this flash restaurant has the looks and the

uz
tastes down to a fine art. What sort of things Azucar CLUB
can you expect to find on the menu? How (Calle Obispo Pérez Cáceres; h 10.30pm-6am)
about a prawn lollipop with roasted corn This dark and sexy Latino nightclub is locat-
and parmesan or a perfectly combined mix ed in an atmospheric colonial building.
of pork, apple and bacon. It’s quite dressy Agora BAR
without being formal. Reservations recom- (Plazoleta de Benito Pérez Galdós 6, La Ranilla;
mended. h 10am-midnight; W ) Cafe and cocktail bar
La Confradía de Pescadores SEAFOOD €€ rolled into one with a chilled-out vibe, art
(Calle Lonjas 5; mains €12-20; h noon-3pm; p ) exhibitions, books to borrow, magazines to
Come here for the catch of the day; the sec- read and tables overlooking this, one of the
ond best thing to buying it at the fish stall prettiest squares in town. Oh, and an owner
next door and cooking it yourself. Watch the who is a Mel Gibson lookalike….
cost though, as some fish dishes are priced Ebano Café CAFE
per weight. Push the boat out with the lobster (Calle Hoya 2; h 10am-midnight; W ) This is a
soup paella for two (€40). The back terrace beautiful building with plenty of original
has appropriate fishing harbour views. features and which is equally ideal for sip-
La Rosa di Bari ITALIAN €€ ping a cocktail or surfing the web (along
(% 922 36 85 23; www.larosadibari.com; Calle with a decent cappuccino). Sit outside in a
Lomo 23, La Ranilla; mains €11-17; h 12.30-2.45pm comfy wicker chair within confessional dis-
& 7-10.45pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-4pm Sun) Located tance of the church. Tapas also served.
141
TENERIFE FOR CHILDREN

Tenerife is a favourite destination for families as there are plenty of sights and activities
to keep the kiddies amused. Unless your tot is one of that curious breed that objects to
sand between the toes (it happens!), the beaches in the southern resorts (as well as
Puerto de la Cruz) are superb, with sandcastle-friendly sand and shallow waters. Older
children can also enjoy water sports ranging from surfing to diving, or they can take to
the high seas on an organised whale- or dolphin-watching excursion.
If watery pursuits begin to pall, the southern resorts of Los Cristianos and Playa de las
Américas equal theme-park heaven. Try Jungle Park (p153) or Siam Park (p153).
3 Entertainment
There is plenty of live music at the terrace La Orotava
restaurants in town, particularly those sur- POP 41,725
rounding Plaza Charco. Aside from these This colonial town has the lot, it seems:
there is a handful of dedicated live music cobblestone streets, flower-filled plazas and
venues. more Castilian mansions than the rest of the
island put together. Along with La Laguna,
Blanco Bar LIVE MUSIC La Orotava is one of the loveliest towns on
(% 620 95 51 97; www.blancobar.com; Calle Blanco Tenerife, and one of the most truly ‘Canari-
12; h 8pm-3am Sun-Thu, 9pm-5.30am Fri & Sat; an’ places in the Canary Islands.
Te n e ri fe LE
W ) Check the website beforehand – as well The lush valley surrounding the town has
as live music, there are comedy acts, which been one of the island’s most prosperous
may not affect your tickle bone unless you areas since the 16th century. Most church-
speak Spanish. Also hosts art exhibitions es and manor houses here were built in the
and has a great atmosphere with no rip-off 17th century (with some dating back to the
T nte
a
h eO N
drinks prices and free entry to the concerts. 16th century). The valley is a major culti-
vator of bananas, chestnuts and grapes (as
rrotava
88 Information
otainment
in vineyards), and is also excellent hiking
rth
Tourist Office (% 922 38 60 00; www.todoten- country, with a maze of footpaths leading
erife.es; Casa de la Aduana, Calle Lonjas; you into Canarian pine woods, with 1200m
h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) An views down over the coastal plain. The tour-
excellent tourist office with helpful staff and ist office can advise on routes.
plenty of brochures and information about the
town. 1 Sights
La Orotava has been able to preserve the
88 Getting There & Away beauty of its past. Traditional mansions are
Buses leave from Calle Cupido (behind the flanked with ornate wooden balconies like
former bus station which now stands derelict). pirate galleons, surrounded by manicured
There are frequent departures for Santa Cruz gardens. You can cover the centre on foot in
(€5.25, 55 minutes). Bus 103 is direct while bus just half a day. Plaza de la Constitución,
102 calls by Tenerife Norte airport and La Lagu- a large, shady plaza, is a good place to start
na. Other popular routes include bus 348 to El
exploring. On the plaza’s northeastern side
Teide (€6.20, 1½ hours, 9.15am), which returns
is the Iglesia de San Agustín (Plaza de la
at 4pm. Bus 343 runs to Costa Adeje (€14.50,
two hours, six daily), via Los Cristianos. Bus Constitución), a simple church with a carved
345 offers a half-hourly service from 7.15am to wooden ceiling.
8.40pm to La Orotava (€1.45, 20 minutes).
oCasa de los Balcones HISTORIC BUILDING
(www.casa-balcones.com; Casa Fonesca, Calle San
88 Getting Around Francisco 3; h 8.30am-6.30pm) F The set-
The long-distance buses starting in or passing ting is sublime – an ornate mansion dating
through Puerto de la Cruz often double up as from 1632 with rooms set around a central
local buses. patio complete with historic photos and
Taxis are widely available and are a relatively memorabilia. One room is devoted to lace-
inexpensive way to jet across town (a 15-minute work. Bypass the Chinese imports to admire
ride should cost around €5). the fine local needlework; there may well be
6
142
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La Orotava a demonstration taking place. There is also

æ Top Sights a bodega with an original Lagar wine press.
1 Casa de los Balcones ...........................A4 Ask for a taste of the banana liquor but, no, it
2 Jardínes del Marquesado de la doesn’t count towards your five a day...
Quinta Roja .........................................B3
oJardínes del Marquesado
æ Sights de la Quinta Roja GARDENS
3 Casa del Turista ....................................A4 (Plaza de la Constitución; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri,
4 Hijuela del Botánico..............................B3
10am-3pm Sat & Sun) F Also known as
5 Iglesia de la Concepción ......................A3
the Jardín Victoria, these French-influenced
6 Iglesia de San Agustín..........................C2
7 Iglesia de Santo Domingo.................... B1 18th-century gardens cascade down the
8 Museo de Artesanía hillside and are crowned by a small marble
Iberoamericana.................................. B1 mausoleum built as a tomb for the Marqués
9 Museo de las Alfombras ......................A4 de la Quinta Roja. However, apparently his
wife and mother disagreed where to lay his
ÿ Sleeping body when he died, so the crypt was not
10 Hotel Alhambra..................................... B1 used for its original purpose and no one
11 Hotel Victoria.........................................A4
knows what (or who) lies within.
ú Eating Iglesia de la Concepción CHURCH
12 Bar la Duquesa......................................A3
(www.concepcionorotava.info; Plaza Patricio García;
13 Casa Egon..............................................B3
h 9am-8pm) Right in the centre of town, the
14 Sabor Canario .......................................A3
origins of this magnificent church date from
143
1516, however it was destroyed by the earth-
quakes of 1704 and 1705 and rebuilt in 1768.
BEST HISTORIC TOWNS
Today it is recognised as being one of the
finest examples of baroque architecture in ¨¨La Laguna (p130) Combines old-
the entire archipelago with its three-fronted fashioned elegance with youthful zeal.
facade and three 24m-high bell towers. ¨¨La Orotava (p141) The finest colonial
Hijuela del Botánico GARDENS architecture in Tenerife.
(Calle León; h 10am-3pm Mon-Fri) F This ¨¨Garachico (p145) Quaint fishing port
small, sweet botanical garden centred hemmed in by beautiful scenery.
around a magnificent drago tree was creat-
ed as a branch of the larger Jardín Botánico
in Puerto de la Cruz. It is home to around always in June), an intricately designed,
3000 plant varieties, as well as plenty of colourful floral carpet is laid on the streets,
birds, butterflies and strategically located made from petals, leaves and branches, and
benches. in the Plaza de Ayuntamiento, a tapestry
of biblical scenes is created using coloured
Casa del Turista HISTORIC BUILDING sands from El Teide.
(Calle San Francisco 4; h 9am-6.30pm) The
building was a former 16th-century con- 5 Eating
vent and today houses an art and crafts Popular with tourists on day trips, there is
shop that includes a permanent exhibit of a plenty of restaurant choice, mainly centred
volcanic-sand carpet that is typical of those around Plaza de la Constitución, the heart
produced for the Corpus Christi celebrations.
Te n e ri fe LFT estivals
of the town.
Museo de Artesanía Bar la Duquesa CANARIAN €
Iberoamericana MUSEUM (Plaza Patricio García 6; mains €7.50-10; h 7am-
(Iberoamerican Handicrafts Museum; Calle Tomás 4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat; c ) A family-run
Zerolo 34; adult/child €2/free; h 9am-6pm Mon- bar, the interior is a pleasing clutter of old
a
h eO N
Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat) Housed in the former photos, Virgin posters, decorative gourds
Convento de Santo Domingo, this museum
r otava
and farming utensils. The menu includes
o r t h & E vents
explores the cultural relationship between sound local choices like lentil soup, paella
the Canaries and the Americas. Exhibits and grilled pork, plus there are outside tables
include musical instruments, ceramics and on the cobbles in the shadow of the church.
various artefacts. There is also an excellent
gift shop. Casa Egon BAKERY €
(Calle León 5; cakes €0.80-1; h 10am-8.30pm)
Museo de las Alfombras MUSEUM Founded in 1916, this is the oldest cake shop
(Calle San Francisco 5; adult/child €2/free; h 10am- in the Canaries and has happily maintained
2pm Mon-Fri) This museum celebrates the its stuck-in-a-time-warp ambience with
town’s Corpus Christi festival with its tra- custard-coloured paintwork, antique weigh-
dition of carpets created from flowers and ing scales, original floor tiles and woodwork,
coloured sands from El Teide. Set in a beau- and much of the decor. The cakes include all-
tiful galleried mansion dating from 1642, the time local favourites like the anís-based ros-
exhibits explain the history of the tradition, cos and apple-filled cabello de angel.
as well as the process. There is also a won-
derfully atmospheric and grainy 10-minute Sabor Canario CANARIAN €€
black-and-white audiovisual presentation of (www.hotelruralorotava.es; Hotel Rural Orotava,
past festivities. Carrera Escultor 17; mains €10-15; h noon-3.30pm
& 6-10pm Tue-Sat) Exercise the taste buds with
Iglesia de Santo Domingo CHURCH soul-satisfying traditional cuisine at this fab-
(Calle Santo Domingo; h variable opening hours) ulous restaurant located in the leafy patio of
This church has beautifully carved doors the Hotel Rural Orotava. The building itself
and a rich Mudéjar ceiling. is a wonderful old Canarian town house
stuffed full of memorabilia.
Corpus Christi RELIGIOUS 88 Information
(h Jun) Celebrated with extravagance in La
Tourist Office (% 922 32 30 41; www.
Orotava (the date changes annually, but it’s todotenerife.es; Calle Calvario 4; h 9am-5pm
144
HIKING WITH GOBLINS

Travel between La Orotava and the Teide massif and around the halfway mark you pass
through the little village of Aguamansa. Just beyond this village, and a little higher up
the mountain slopes, the road passes a number of parking areas away from which radi-
ate an array of brilliantly marked walking trials. The walking here is really easy with only
gentle inclines and short distances to cover (although it’s simple to join routes up and
create much longer walks) and is perfect for gentle family strolling. Most of the routes
twist in and out of fantastic laurel forests that are like something out of a children’s fanta-
sy story; so dense is the forest that if ever fairies, elves and goblins had a home in Europe
then it must surely have been here. In other areas the laurel forests are replaced with
magnificent stands of ancient pine trees with girths so thick it would take two or three
grown men to encircle them with their arms.
Each parking area has a signboard explaining the different routes leading away from it.
Mon-Fri) A well-marked tourist route of the (% 922 81 21 23; www.todotenerife.es; Calle San
town’s major monuments starts here. There Sebastián 6; h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri) is just off the
is a small kiosk for tourist information (Plaza main plaza.
de la Constitución; h 10am-1.30pm & 5-7pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) in Plaza de la
Constitución.
1 Sights
Parque Nacional del Teide Administrative Drago Park PARK
Te n e ri fe IG
Offices (Visitors Centre; % 922 92 23 71; www. (adult/child €4/2.50; h 9.30am-6.30pm; p)

reservasparquesnacionales.es; Calle Sixto Located past Plaza Constitución (aka Plaza
Perera González 25; h 9am-2pm & 3.30-6pm Pila), a square with historic Canary homes,
Tue-Sun) You can register here for climbing the is Drago Park, where you can pay to get up
Tcod
El Teide summit. There is also an informative close to the pride of the town – a tree said
h
etting
photographic display and a short film about the to be the world’s largest and oldest dragon
e Nde
national park. The centre is located just north tree, that has allegedly been here for more
ort
of the bus station in La Orotava. than 1000 years. On closer inspection, this
los
claim is a little optimistic and it would be

Thh e V
88 Getting There & Away better described as the world’s largest and
r inos
Parking in La Orotava is a nightmare. If you’re oldest Canary Islands dragon tree (there are
e & Away
not staying here then it’s far better to come by around 40 different species and sub-species
bus from Puerto de la Cruz, which is just 9km of drago trees).
away. Bus 345 (€1.45, 20 minutes) leaves rough- The park is also home to a pretty botan-
ly every half-hour from 5.40am to 9.55pm. Bus ical garden and a so-called Guanche trail
350 (€1.45, 45 minutes, two daily), among oth- with life-sized Guanche figures placed in
ers, comes from Santa Cruz. If you have to drive,
natural-looking settings around the park,
there is street parking here, but you should plan
on arriving early to secure a spot. plus a cave with disarmingly lifelike skulls
and bones (great for scaring the tots!).
Artlandya Doll Museum MUSEUM
Icod de los Vinos (www.artlandya.com; Camino el Moleiro 21; adult/
POP 23,725 child €10/free; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sat; p ) A col-
An umbrella-shaped drago tree is the cause lection of dolls and teddy bears may not
of a lot of fuss in this town. Indeed, it’s worth sound that captivating to anyone over the
a look, and the shady main square, Plaza San age of three, but Austrian owner Georg is
Marcos, is a lovely, leafy spot to rest and en- an enthralling character who brings the
joy the town’s white-walled church, Iglesia doll-making process to life as he shows you
de San Marcos, with its ornate silver high al- around his superb 300-plus collection. The
tar. Other than this plaza and the tiny kernel museum is set in beautiful gardens and
of old streets leading off it, the town is not there is a small cafe.
the most inspiring of places. For restaurants
and places to stay, head on to neighbouring 88 Getting There & Away
Garachico, which is many notches up on the
If you’re driving, follow the signs towards the
postcard-pretty stakes. The tourist office paid car park. Alternatively, bus 106 comes
145
directly from Santa Cruz (€7.45, 1¼ hours) every
two hours from 6.45am to 10.45pm. Bus 354
1 Sights
comes from Puerto de la Cruz (€3.60, 45 min- The soul of Garachico is the main Plaza
utes) every half-hour from 7.30am to 10.30pm, Libertad, with its towering palm trees, cafe
and bus 460 makes the trip up from Playa de las tables and lively atmosphere. At dusk old
Américas (€7, 1½ hours, eight daily). The bus men in flat caps play cards surrounded by
station is to the northeast of the town centre. sauntering couples, children kicking balls,
and families. Nearby is the evocative Iglesia
de Santa Ana, with a dominating white bell
Garachico tower and original 16th-century doors.
POP 6800 Another rare remnant of the volcano is
A gracious, tranquil town located in a deep in the cute Parque de la Puerta de Tierra,
valley flanked by forested slopes and a rocky just off Plaza Juan González (aka Plaza Pila),
coastline, Garachico has managed to retain where the Puerta de Tierra (Land Gate) is all
its Canarian identity. There are no big ho- that’s left of Garachico’s once-thriving port. It
tels, probably because there is no real beach, was once right on the water but thanks to the
though swimming in the natural, volcanic eruption is now in the centre of town.
coves along the rocky coast is a rare delight. Convento de San Francisco MUSEUM
Named for the rock outcrop off its shore (Plaza Libertad; adult/child €2/free; h 11am-2pm &
(gara is Guanche for island, and chico is 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) There is plenty
Spanish for small), Garachico is a peaceful to see at this eclectic museum located in a
place. You’d never guess the history of ca- 16th-century convent with a beautiful clois-
lamities that lies behind its whitewashed tered interior. Exhibits range from geology
Te n e ri fe G
houses and narrow, cobblestone streets. Ga- and the island’s volcanic history (with multi-
rachico was once an important commercial media installations) to contemporary sculp-
port, but its unlucky inhabitants suffered a tures and fascinating 19th-century photos of
series of disasters that all but finished off the the town complete with resident camels.
hamlet: freak storms, floods, fires, epidem-
Th
S ig
a erhac
ics and, in 1706, a major volcanic eruption Castillo de San Miguel CASTLE
that destroyed the port and buried half the (Avenida Tome Cano; adult/child €2/free; h 10am-
Nts
ohrico
town in lava, reducing it to a poor shadow of 4pm) A squat stone fortress built in the 16th
its former self. century, with photos and explanations of the
th
Just outside town, you can hike trails that area’s flora and fauna, as well as a chrono-
follow the path of the disastrous lava flow. logical history of the town. Climb the tower
for good views of the town and coast.
TASTY TENERIFE
Don’t confuse the traditional culinary fare of Tenerife with that of the Spanish mainland;
there are distinctive differences, although the ubiquitous tapas of Spain are common
here also. The cuisine reflects a Latin American and Arabic influence, with more spices,
including cumin, paprika and dried chillies, than the Spanish norm.
As on the other islands, the staple product par excellence is gofio, toasted grain that
takes the place of bread and can be mixed with almonds and figs to make sweets. The
traditional cabra (goat) and cabrito (kid) remain the staple animal protein. The rich,
gamey conejo en salmorejo (rabbit in a marinade based on bay leaves, garlic and wine)
is common, as well as stews (potaje, rancho canario or puchero) of meat and vegetables
simmered to savoury perfection. Fish is also a winner, with the renowned horse mackerel
(chicharros) of Santa Cruz de Tenerife even lending their name to the city’s residents:
the Chicharreros.
Also recommended is the sancocho canario, a salted-fish dish with mojo (a spicy sal-
sa based on garlic and red chilli peppers). This sauce is the most obvious contribution to
the Tenerife table, and is typically served with papas arrugadas (wrinkly potatoes; small
new potatoes boiled and salted in their skins). The most typical dessert is bienmesabe
(literally ‘tastes good to me’), a mixture of honey, almond, egg yolks and rum.
If you are into self-catering, then hit the local markets. They are the best places to buy
the freshest vegetables and fruit.
146
z Festivals & Events est mountain in the Canary Islands but,
Romería de San Roque RELIGIOUS at a whopping 3718m, the highest in all of
(h 16 Aug) This is Garachico’s most impor- Spain and is, in every sense of the word, the
tant annual festival when the town fills with highlight of a trip to Tenerife. The Parque
pilgrims (and partygoers) from throughout Nacional del Teide, which covers 189.9 sq
the island. San Roque (St Roch), the town’s km and encompasses the volcano and the
patron, was credited with saving the town surrounding hinterland, is both a Unesco
from the Black Death, which arrived in 1601. World Heritage site and Spain’s most pop-
ular national park, attracting some four
5 Eating million visitors a year. Most serious hikers
For the best choice of bars and restaurants, have heard of Teide, but few realise before-
head for the tangle of streets surrounding hand just how spectacular the mountain
the central main square. and surrounding national park is. It would
be easy to pass a week in and around the
Casa Ramón CANARIAN € park tramping the various hiking trails and
(Calle Esteban de Ponte 4; mains €6-8; h 1-8pm not get bored. Most casual visitors arrive by
Mon-Sat) The wood-panelled dining room bus or car and don’t wander far off the high-
of this little restaurant, run by an elderly way that snakes through the centre of the
lady who refuses to make any concessions park, but that just means that the rest of us
to the modern age, is a throwback to a by- have more elbow room to explore. There are
gone era. The music comes courtesy of an numerous walking tracks marking the way
old cassette player, the bills are written on through volcanic terrain, beside unique rock
scraps of paper and coffee is unheard of. The formations and up to the peak of El Teide.
Te n e ri fe Pa
heart-warming specials are chalked up daily. This area was declared a national park in
1954, with the goal of protecting the land-
oMirador de scape, which includes 14 plants found no-
Garachico CONTEMPORARY CANARIAN €€ where else on earth. Geologically the park
(% 922 83 11 98; Calle Esteban de Ponte 28; mains
FT estivals
is fascinating: of the many different types of

hr
€11-18; h 8am-11pm Mon-Sat; W ) This pleasing volcanic formations found in the world, ex-
e qCuent
combo of contemporary bar and restaurant, amples of more than 80% can be found here.
plus tasteful art-and-crafts store, serves up
e Nracional
These include rough badlands (deeply erod-

creative dishes including a rabbit timbale ed barren areas), smooth pahoehoe or lajial
that came local top in a local foodie contest.
e& E vents
lava (rock that looks like twisted taffy) and

Expect combinations like venison in a choc- pebble-like lapilli. There are also complex
olate-and-pepper sauce and banana, spinach formations such as volcanic pipes and cones.
and smoked fish croquettes. Top off your The park protects nearly 1000 Guanche ar-
del T eide
meal with the passionfruit shot; it’ll surely chaeological sites, many of which are still
make you blush with delight. unexplored and all of which are unmarked,
preventing curious visitors from removing
88 Information ‘souvenirs’. Surrounding the peak are the
The tourist office (% 922 13 34 61; www. cañadas, flat depressions likely caused by a
todotenerife.es; Calle Esteban de Ponte 5; massive landslide 180,000 years ago.
h 10am-3pm Mon-Fri) sells a map of town (€1). The park is spectacular at any time of
the year. Most people attempt to climb to
88 Getting There & Away the summit in the summer – and with the
Bus 107 connects the town with Santa Cruz (€8.15, weather being at its most stable then this
two hours), La Laguna, La Orotava and Icod de los makes perfect sense – but to really see the
Vinos, while bus 363 comes and goes from Puerto park at its pinnacle of beauty, early spring,
de la Cruz (€3.75, one hour, up to 20 daily). when the lower slopes start to bloom in
flowers and, if you’re lucky, the summit area
still has a hat of snow, is best. Many visitors,
THE CENTRE having driven up from the hot coastal plains,
are surprised at just how cold it can be in
the national park. Deep winter in particular
Parque Nacional del Teide can see heavy snow shutting the main roads
through the park and access to the summit
Standing sentry over Tenerife, formidable El can be closed for weeks on end.
Teide (Pico del Teide) is not just the high-
1 47
El Teide dominates the northern end of
the park. If you don’t want to make the very TENERIFE’S BEST HIKES
tough five-hour (one-way) climb to the top,
take the cable car. El Teide (p147) Simply the most spec-
tacular walk in the Canaries.
1 Sights Barranco de Masca (p151) A thrilling
Pico del Teide MOUNTAIN descent through a steep gorge.
(% 922 01 04 40; www.telefericoteide.com; cable
Pico Viejo (p147) Teide’s forgotten
car adult/child €26/13; h 9am-4pm; p ) The ca-
peak.
ble car provides the easiest way to get up
to the peak of El Teide. If you don’t mind Llano de los Loros (p134) Beautiful,
paying up, the views are great – unless a big family-friendly forest stroll.
cloud is covering the peak, in which case you
won’t see a thing. On clear days, the volcanic like the Finger of God and the Cathedral.
valley spreads out majestically below, and They are the result of erosion of old volcan-
you can see the islands of La Gomera, La ic dykes, or vertical streams of magma. The
Palma and El Hierro peeking up from the weirdest of the rocks is the Roque Cincha-
Atlantic. It takes just eight minutes to zip do, while spreading out to the west are the
up 1200m. otherworldly bald plains of the Llano de
A few words of warning: those with heart Ucanca.
or lung problems should stay on the ground, Note that the Roque Cinchado is wearing
as oxygen is short up here in the clouds. It’s away faster at the base than above, and one
chilly, too, so no matter what the weather’s
Te n e ri fe Pa
of these days is destined to topple over (so
like below, bring a jacket. The cable cars, maybe you shouldn’t get too close). It is such
which each hold around 35 passengers, leave an iconic symbol in Spain that it featured
every 10 minutes, but get here early (before for years on the old 1000 peseta note. This
noon) because at peak times you could be is the most popular spot in the park and is
Th
S
queuing for two hours! The last ride down
igr
viewed by nearly 90% of its visitors. The car
ehqCts
is at 5pm. Be aware also that weather con- park is always crowded, but most people just
ditions often force the early closure of the
uent
leave their cars or tour buses for a 15-minute
e Nracional
cable car – strong winds can whip up sud- glance. If you plan to hike the relatively easy,
denly and the cable car can stop running 1½-hour trail that circles the rocks, you’ll
e
with very little notice. This is normally not most likely be alone.
a huge problem for casual visitors who’ve
caught the cable car up the mountain as a Pico Viejo MOUNTAIN
park warden based at the top cable car sta- Calling this mountain ‘Old Peak’ is some- del T eide
tion will inform everyone that it’s about to thing of a misnomer considering it was
stop running, but for hikers climbing all the actually the last of Tenerife’s volcanoes to
way up the mountain and intending to take have erupted on a grand scale. In 1798 its
the cable car back down it can be a very se- southwestern flank tore open, leaving a
rious issue indeed. 700m gash. Today you can clearly see where
fragments of magma shot over 1km into the
Roques de García ROCK FORMATIONS
air and fell pell-mell. Torrents of lava gushed
A few kilometres south of the peak, across from a secondary, lower wound to congeal
from the parador , lies this geological freak on the slopes.
show of twisted lava pinnacles with names
IT’S ASTRONOMICAL
One of the best places in the northern hemisphere to stargaze is the Observatorio
del Teide (C-824). Set just off the C-824 highway that runs between La Laguna and the
El Portillo visitor centre, scientists from all over the world come to study here and at its
sister observatory in La Palma. You can have a free tour and add your name to the list of
those who’ve seen through the mammoth telescopes scattered here from December to
March. You’ll need to make an appointment first. For more information, see www.iac.es.
Volcano Life Experience (www.volcanolife.com), a private tour company, also offers a
number of stargazing packages starting from €30 per person.
148
To this day, not a blade of grass or a stain cending the mountain and expecting a ride
of lichen has returned to the arid slope. The back down).
ascent of this peak is often overlooked in the
Guided Hikes
hurry to stand atop Spain, but those in the
know often rate it as more impressive than Park rangers host free guided walks around
the climb to the summit of Teide itself, and the mountain in both Spanish and English.
it’s certainly much less busy (when we last The pace is gentle and there are frequent
climbed it we were the only people on the information pauses. Even though you’ll huff
mountain). It also has the advantage of not and puff rather more than usual because of
needing any special permits. the high altitude, the walks are suitable for
anyone of reasonable fitness (including chil-
Hiking dren aged over 10).
Groups leave at 9.15am and 1.30pm
For the family-friendly saunter around the
from the visitor centre at El Portillo, and at
Roques de García you won’t need anything
9.30am and 1pm from the visitor centre at
other than comfortable shoes and some
Cañada Blanca. Walks last about two hours.
warm clothes. For anything more ambitious,
Groups are small, so it is essential to re-
though, you’ll need proper walking boots
serve a place in advance by contacting the
and poles, warm clothes, some food and
Parque Nacional del Teide Administrative
water and a map and compass. If you’re in-
Offices (p144).
tending to climb Teide or Pico Viejo in the
winter, when thick snow is common, you’ll Self-Guided Hikes
need full winter hiking gear including thick The general park visitor guide lists 21 walks,
fleeces, a waterproof jacket, gloves and a hat, ranging in length from 600m to 17.6km,
Te n e ri fe Pa
and sunglasses. Poles are an essential item some of which are signposted. Each walk
and on some routes crampons wouldn’t go is graded according to its level of difficulty
amiss either. There are very strict rules about (ranging from ‘low’ – the most common – to
where you can and cannot walk in the park ‘extreme’). You’re not allowed to stray from
T hr
Hiking
and you must keep to the marked trails at the marked trails, a sensible restriction in an
e qCuent
all times (though some of these can be very environment where every tuft of plant life
vague on the less-frequented high-altitude has to fight for survival.
e Nracional
trails). Most importantly don’t underesti- You don’t have to be a masochist to en-
mate Teide: this might not be the Himalayas joy the challenge of walking from road level
e
but it’s still a serious mountain (especially in up to La Rambleta at the top of the cable
the winter) and its ocean setting means that car, followed by a zoom down in the lift, but
the weather here can change unbelievably neither should you take this walk lightly.
fast, sometimes forcing the sudden closure People unused to serious hiking will find
del T eide
of the cable car (a serious issue for hikers as- this a very strenuous walk. Get off the bus
CLIMBING TO THE SUMMIT – THE PAPERWORK

The key to climbing the summit from the top of the cable car is to plan ahead. There’s a
permit scheme in force that restricts the number of visitors who can climb to the summit
to 150 a day. You can reserve your place online using www.reservasparquesnacionales.es
(follow the links through to the Parque Nacional del Teide). You can make a reservation
up to 2pm the day before you want to climb (as long as spaces are available!).
Should you really feel the need to make life hard for yourself, it’s also possible to make
the application in person or by post via the Parque Nacional del Teide Administra-
tive Offices (p144) of the national park in La Orotava.
You can choose from several two-hour slots per day in which to make your final ascent
to the summit. In addition to the permit, take your passport or ID with you on the walk,
as you’ll probably be asked to produce it, and don’t miss your allotted slot or you won’t
be allowed beyond the barrier.
Note that bad weather conditions can mean the closure of the summit for weeks at
a time. The website has details of any such closures and when they next expect it to be
open to hikers.
From the cable car it’s about a one-hour walk to the summit.
1 49
THE DAY EL TEIDE SWALLOWED THE SUN

These days scientists can explain exactly how a volcano erupts: magma from the earth’s
core explodes through the crust and spews ash, rock and molten lava over the land. But
the Guanches, living in pre-Hispanic Tenerife, had a more romantic version. According
to legend, the 13th-century eruption was caused when El Teide swallowed the sun. The
people believed that the devil, Guyota, lived inside El Cheide, as El Teide was then known.
One day he emerged from his underground lair and saw the sun. Jealous of its light,
he stole it and hid it inside his lair, causing death, destruction and darkness all over the
island. The Guanches begged Chaman, the sky god, for help, and the god battled Guyota
inside the volcano. The Guanches knew Chaman had triumphed when one morning they
awoke to see the sun back in the sky and the volcano plugged with rock, trapping the evil
Guyota inside forever.
The legend coincides perfectly with what happened following the medieval eruption.
An ash cloud covered the sun, and the only light the Guanches saw came from the
mouth of the active volcano, leading them to believe the sun was trapped there. The
volcano’s toxic ash would have killed many plants and animals, and the ‘battle’ going on
inside the volcano was probably the rumblings following the eruption. The ‘plug’ that
safely trapped Guyota in El Cheide was new volcanic rock.
(request the driver to stop) or leave your car there and then continue your ascent to the
Te n e ri fe Pa
at the small road-side parking area (sign- summit of Teide the following morning as
posted ‘Montaña Blanca’ and ‘Refugio de Al- this will allow you most of the second day to
tavista’) 8km south of the El Portillo visitor descend Teide on foot if required.
centre and set off along the 4WD track that
leads uphill. En route, you can make a short 88 Information
ITnfo
hr
(half-hour, at the most), almost-level detour There are two excellent visitors centres in the
e qCruent
along a clear path to the rounded summit park.
of Montaña Blanca (2750m), from where
mation
e Nracional
El Portillo Visitors Centre (% 922 92 37 71;
there are splendid views of Las Cañadas and www.reservasparquesnacionales.es; Carretera
the sierra beyond. For the full ascent to La
e
La Orotava-Granadilla; h 9am-4pm; W ) A
Rambleta, allow about five hours (one way). well-stocked visitors centre with a geological
If you’re intending on taking the cable car exhibition about the park and which can pro-
back down, it’s vital that you allow sufficient vide hiking maps and advice. del T eide
time (and have enough food supplies) to Cañada Blanca Visitors Centre (www.reser-
walk back down the mountain if the cable vasparquesnacionales.es; Cañadas del Teide;
car has to close early. Alternatively, make h 9am-4pm; W ) An excellent visitors centre
the Montaña Blanca your more modest goal with an informative exhibition that includes an
for the day and then head back down again audiovisual display about the volcanic history
of El Teide; however, it was temporarily closed
(about 2½ hours for the round trip).
for renovations at the time of research.
Another long but relatively gentle route is
the 16km Las Siete Cañadas between the
two visitor centres, which, depending on 88 Getting There & Away
your pace, will take between four and five Surprisingly, only two public buses arrive
hours (note that you’ll need transport wait- at the park daily: bus 348 from Puerto de la
ing for you at the end of this walk). Cruz (€6.20, one hour), and bus 342 from Los
Cristianos (€7, 1½ hours). Bus 348 departs at
Maybe the most spectacular, and certain-
9.15am, and bus 342 at 9.30am; both arrive
ly the hardest, walk in the park is the climb
at the parador, and leave again at 4pm. That’s
to the summit of Pico Viejo, then along the good news for the countless tour companies
ridge that connects this mountain to Teide that organise bus excursions, though not so
and then up to the summit of Teide. Allow at encouraging for the independent traveller. The
least nine hours for this hike (one way) and best way to visit is with your own car. There
be prepared to walk back down Teide again are four well-marked approaches to the park;
if the cable car is closed. In fact, for this walk the two prettiest are the C-824 coming from
it’s actually better to walk to the Refugio de La Laguna and the C-821 from La Orotava (and
Altavista at 3270m on the first day, overnight Puerto de la Cruz). The C-821 is the only road
1 50
whisper of lizards scurrying in the brush…
MAPS & BOOKS This beautiful spot, the most northwestern
on the island, is no secret. But it still has a
Maps of the island are readily available.
wild charm that the visitors can’t take away.
Among the best are those by Editorial
You can fish off the point, splash along the
Everest. There are several good hiking
rocky coast or just absorb the view.
guidebooks to Tenerife although, in-
Think twice about heading out here if
creasingly, companies are switching to
there have been recent heavy rains, as mud
online versions. Some of the best print
and rock slides are common.
hiking guides include Walk! Tenerife
(2nd edition) and the accompanying
Tenerife Hiking Map, both by David
88 Getting There & Away
Brawn and published by Discovery Take the highway towards Buenavista del Norte
Walking Guides; Tenerife Landscapes, from Garachico and keep following the signs
by Noel Rochford and published by to the Punta, around 7km further on. Bus 107
comes from Santa Cruz to Buenavista del Norte
Sunflower (the same people also pub-
(€9.35, 1½ hours), but to get out to Punta de
lish Southern Tenerife and La Gomera
Teno, you need your own car.
Landscapes); and Rother Walking
Guides’ Tenerife, by Klaus and Annette
Wolfsperger with GPS tracking and last
updated in May 2015. Tenerife & its Six
Santiago del Teide
Satellites, by Olivia M Stone, provides a This small town, sitting just to the north-
fascinating glimpse of the island from a west of the national park boundary, as well
as on the junctions for Los Gigantes and
Te n e ri fe V
late-18th-century viewpoint.
Garachico, makes a superb base for all of
these places. In addition Masca and the
that runs through the park, and the parador, the Teno mountains are just a few minutes to
cable car and the visitor centres are all off this the northwest and the immediate area is lit-
highway, as are several miradors, where you can
Th
G
tered with fantastic hiking trails, which are

ilaflo
etting
pull over and take the shot to impress the folks

e N o rrtThhwe est
back home. To see anything else, you have to

at their best in early spring when the cherry
walk. The C-821 carries on to Vilaflor, while the blossoms are in bloom. There’s a small tour-
C-823 highway links the park with Chío and Los ist office (% 922 86 03 48; www.todotenerife.es;
Gigantes. Avenida Marítima 34; h 9am-4pm Tue-Sat) on the
main square beside the church that can pro-
r e & Away
vide information on the many fine walking

Vilaflor trails in the area. The town is also home to
one of the better places to stay in Tenerife.
The pretty town of Vilaflor, on the sunny
southern flanks of Teide, is the highest vil-
lage in Tenerife and makes a superb base for
explorations of the national park. There are Masca
a number of places to stay in the village, as Tiny Masca must be the most spectacular
well as restaurants, including the excellent El village in Tenerife. It literally teeters on the
Rincon de Roberto (% 922 70 90 35; Avenida very brink of a knife-edge ridge and looks
Hermano Pedro 27; mains €12-18; h noon-5pm Mon, as if the merest hint of a puff of wind would
to 10pm Wed-Sat), serving classic Canarian fare. blow the entire village off its precipitous
perch and send it tumbling hundreds of me-
tres to the valley floor.
THE NORTHWEST 2 Activities
Parque Rural de Teno HIKING
P unta de Teno The surrounding rugged and beautiful Par-

que Rural de Teno is popular for hiking –
When Plato mistook the Canary Islands for
if you don’t want to go it alone, El Cardón
Atlantis, it must have been because of places
(% 922 12 79 38; www.elcardon.com) provides
like Punta de Teno. It’s what daydreams are
guides, setting out from Garachico, Los Silos
made of – waves crashing against a black,
or Buenavista del Norte on Wednesday and
volcanic beach, solitary mountains rising
Saturday.
like giants in the background, the constant
151
SCENIC DRIVE: TO THE END OF TENERIFE

The northwest corner of Tenerife offers some spectacular unspoiled scenery. From Gara-
chico, head west on the TF-42 highway past Buenavista del Norte and down the TF-445
to the wild and remote Punta de Teno.
You’ll have to return to Buenavista to catch the TF-436 mountain highway to Santiago
del Teide. Curve after hairpin curve obligates you to slow down and enjoy the view. Ter-
raced valleys appear behind rugged mountains, and Masca makes the perfect pit stop.
When the highway reaches Santiago, you can head either north on the TF-82 towards
Garachico, or south towards Los Gigantes, where signs point the way down to Playa de la
Arena, a sandless beach that’s nearly as pretty as Punta de Teno, though more developed.
You’ll need at least a full morning to complete this route.
Barranco de Masca HIKING

A popular but demanding trek is down Bar- Los Gigantes &
ranco de Masca to the sea. Allow six hours to
hike there and back, or do it the smart way
Puerto de Santiago
POP 5750
and take bus 355 from Santiago del Teide These two towns have merged into one, and
to Masca at 10.35am, walk down the gorge a worrying number of cranes can only mean
and then catch the Excursions Marítimas more building is under way, but for the mo-
(% 922 86 21 20; fare €15) ferry back to Los
ment at least the low-rise, and low-key, town
Te n e ri fe LFT os
Gigantes (€15, 1.30pm, 3.30pm and 4.30pm that sprawls along the rocky, cove-infested
daily) at the end of your walk. coastline is a million miles from Las Améri-
If you need to get from Los Gigantes to cas and is certainly one of the more attrac-
Santiago del Teide in order to catch the on- tive resort towns in Tenerife. Just to the
ward bus to Masca, bus 325 leaves Los Gi- north of the town rise the awesome Acanti-
estivals
he G
gantes at 8.40am (there’s another at 5.15pm). lados de los Gigantes (Cliffs of the Giants),
Take note of the warning sign at the start
N igantes
rock walls that soar up to 600m out of the
o r t h&
of this hike which advises that the route is ocean. The submerged base of these cliffs is
not totally safe and that you undertake the a haven for marine life, making this one of
hike at your own risk. Do not attempt this
w est
the island’s supreme diving areas.
hike if there is even the remotest chance of
E vents
The best views of the cliffs are from out at
& P u e r to de S antiago
rain or strong winds as the risk of rockfalls sea (there’s no shortage of companies offer-
and landslides is very high. If you are in- ing short cruises) and from Playa de los Gi-
tending to catch the water taxi back to Los gantes, a tiny volcanic beach beside Los Gi-
Gigantes at the end of the walk then it’s ad- gantes’ port that offers a breathtaking view.
visable to take your mobile phone with you If you are looking for more sunbed space,
and call them if you’re going to be late: they head to Playa de la Arena, a larger volcanic
will wait for you if they know you’re coming. beach in Puerto de Santiago. Both resorts
There are sections of this hike that vertigo have a large British expatriate community,
sufferers will have real problems traversing. which means plenty of restaurants serving
beans on toast.
Fiesta de la Consolación CULTURAL 2 Activities
(h Dec) The Fiesta de la Consolación takes
This is the best place on the island for div-
place in the first week of December. Villag- ing, with abundant marine life, as well as
ers wearing traditional dress bring out their being excellent for spotting whales and dol-
timples (similar to a ukulele) and other in- phins.
struments for an evening of Canarian music.
Los Gigantes Diving Centre DIVING
88 Getting There & Away (% 922 86 04 31; www.divingtenerife.co.uk; Los Gi-
There are two 355 buses (€1.30, 30 minutes) gantes Harbour; dive incl equipment rental €49, in-
each day to/from Santiago del Teide. The drive troductory dive €60; h 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) An
to Masca is so dramatic that vertigo sufferers English-owned diving centre based in Los
will want to shut their eyes. However, for your Gigantes; one of the best places in Tenerife
own good we’d suggest you do resist the urge to! for diving.
1 52
casual on the sunny terrace. The baby octo-
BIOCLIMATIC HOUSING pus is well worth slurping down.
As an environmental counterbalance to El Rincón de
Granadilla’s controversial new container Juan Carlos CONTEMPORARY CANARIAN €€€
port, the town is also home of a state-of- (% 922 86 80 40; www.elrincondejuancarlos.es;
the-art bioclimatic housing complex. The Pasaje de Jacaranda 2, Los Gigantes; mains €15-25,
25 houses, which are available to rent, menús from €29; h 7-10pm Mon-Sat) If you’re all
have been built using recycled and recy- set to splurge, this formal restaurant is just
clable materials, use renewable energy off the main plaza in Los Gigantes. Try one
for all their power, water and waste of the sumptuous fit-for-a-King-Juan-Carlos
processing and are 100% carbon-dioxide menús or, if you’re missing a McDonald’s, go
free. Check http://casas.iter.es/en for for the duck burger with mustard and local
more information. cheeses. Advance reservations essential.
88 Information
Katrin BOAT TOUR
The tourist office (% 922 86 03 48; www.
(% 922 86 03 32; www.dolphinwhalewatch.com; todotenerife.es; Avenida Marítima, local 34;
Los Gigantes Harbour; 2hr safari €20; h 11.30am- h 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) is
1.35pm) A reputable outfit which restricts on the 2nd floor of the shopping centre across
passengers to just 20 and also takes out from Playa de la Arena.
groups with special needs.
Nashíra Uno BOAT TOUR
88 Getting There & Around
Te n e ri fe LE
(% 922 86 19 18; www.maritimaacantilados.com; Bus 473 comes and goes from Los Cristianos
Los Gigantes Harbour; 2/3hr whale & dolphin cruise (€4.65, 1¼ hours), and bus 325 (€7.10, 1¾ hours,
€25/35; h 11am, 2pm & 6pm) Has several daily six daily) travels from Puerto de la Cruz. For
whale- and dolphin-watching trips and also those with wheels, it’s a well-marked 40km drive
from Los Cristianos.
T os
offers taxi boat services from Masca back to

h
ating
e C
Los Gigantes (€12).

So
THE SOUTH
r istianos
5 Eating
uth
You won’t be hard-pressed to find a restau-

rant (most are by Los Gigantes Marina or
along the Avenida Marítima), but there are Los Cristianos,
Playa de las Américas &
, P laya de las A m é r icas & C osta A deje
slim pickings for truly good ones.

El Mesón CANARIAN €€
Costa Adeje
POP AROUND 150,000
(% 922 86 04 76; Calle La Vigilia, Puerto Santiago;
Don’t forget to wear your shades when you
mains €10-14; h noon-4pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat;
first hit Tenerife’s southwestern tip. You’ll
c ) Locals rate this large restaurant as one
need them, not just against the blinding
of the best in town and the owner, who’s
sunshine, but also the accompanying daz-
quite a character, could talk the hind legs off
zle of neon signs, shimmering sand and
a donkey. It serves an excellent array of sea-
lobster-pink northern Europeans. Large
food and traditional Canarian and mainland
multipool resorts with all-you-can-eat buf-
meat dishes including a succulent rabbit
fets have turned what was a sleepy fishing
stew and even a whole suckling pig (with a
coast into a mega-moneymaking resort. The
day’s advance notice). Finish off your meal
sweeping, sandy beaches are some of the
with the complimentary homemade honey
most lively and child-friendly on the island.
rum tipple.
The nightlife is for those with high energy
El Baco de Nino SEAFOOD €€ and high spirits and there is a predictably
(% 922 86 83 39; Paseo Marítimo, Puerto Santiago; dizzying array of restaurants.
mains €10-15; h 1-4pm & 7-11pm Wed-Mon) Sea- That said, the old town of Los Cristianos,
side-facing restaurant that’s a little more still retains (just) the feel of a fishing village
expensive than others but its seafood gets while just beyond is Playa de las Américas,
votes of confidence from locals. The indoor with its high-rise hotels, glossy shopping
seating area is fairly formal or you can get centres and Las Vegas–style fake Roman
153
KNOW YOUR SOUTH-COAST BEACHES

Tenerife’s south-coast beaches come complete with mojito-mixing beach bars and chic
restaurants; for something more low-key, head to the beaches at the nearby towns of
Las Galletas (p160) and El Médano (p163).
Playa de Los Cristianos (Los Cristianos) This 1km-long taupe-coloured sandy stretch is
the main beach in town and very family friendly with a lifeguard, rows of sunbeds, volley-
ball net, plus bars, restaurants and ice-cream kiosks.
Playa de las Vistas (Map p154; Playa de las Américas) A sublime 1.5km long beach with
fine golden sand (imported from the Sahara Desert!), linking Los Cristianos with Playa de
las Américas. The beach is backed by bars and restaurants and protected by breakwa-
ters, so it’s perfect for swimming.
Playa de Troya (Map p154; Playa de las Américas) One of several beaches that merge
seamlessly into each other in central Playa, with soft dark sand and excellent facilities.
laya del Duque (Costa Adeje) Appropriately named, the 600m-long Duke’s beach is an
P
appealing golden sandy stretch backed by jaunty striped changing huts, chic cafes and
restaurants.
laya de la Encaramada (La Caleta, Costa Adeje) A dark volcanic beach with a great
P
beach bar; a popular launch spot for hang-gliding.
Te n e ri fe LS
statues and pyramids. The Costa Adeje flows Aqualand WATER PARK
seamlessly north of here and is home to lux- (Map p158; www.aqualand.es; Avenida de Austria 15,
ury hotels, sophisticated clubs and restau- Costa Adeje; adult/child €25/17.50; h 10am-5pm
rants and superb beaches. Sep-Jun, to 6pm Jul & Aug; p ) This vast water
T os
Many independent travellers bound for park comes with all the standard slides and
h
igehC
the western islands end up having to spend pools, but also has captive dolphins in a
Sts
at least one night here and most aim straight dolphinarium, which may concern some vis-
o
r istianos
for Los Cristianos, which has the best facili- itors, as research indicates such captivity is
uth
ties for independent travellers. stressful to these complex creatures.
If you get lost, do what the locals do –
orientate yourself by the hotels and large 2 Activities
buildings.
The 2800 average hours of yearly sunshine
mean that beaches are the star turn here,
1 Sights but if you just can’t take another day of lying
Jungle Park ZOO prone on a sunbed, there are other, more en-
(Map p158; www.aguilasjunglepark.com; Los Cris- ergetic options.
tianos-Arona, Km 3; adult/child €24/16; h 10am-
Diving
5.30pm; p ) Jungle Park is by far the most
popular attraction in the south. There are The volcanic coast here makes for excellent
close to 500 animals here, including two diving, and calm waters mean that even a
rare white tigers, surrounded by lush land- first-timer can have a thrilling ‘try dive’ in
scaping with lagoons, walkways and sub- the ocean. A standard dive runs upwards of
tropical plants and trees. €35, though the per-dive rate drops if you’re
planning several days of diving. There are
Siam Park AMUSEMENT PARK several outfits to choose from.
(Map p158; % 902 06 00 00; www.siampark.net;
Autopista Sur exit 28; adult/child €34/23; h 10am- Aqua Marina DIVING
6pm; p ) Southern Tenerife’s biggest theme (Map p154; % 922 79 79 44; www.aquamarinadiv-
park is the impressive Siam Park, which ingtenerife.com; Playa de la Vistas, Playa de las
offers a chance to throw yourself down Américas; single dive €39, kids bubblemaker course
a 28m-high vertical waterslide, surf in a €35; h 9am-6pm; c ) Offers the standard
swimming pool, get spat out of the guts of array of boat dives, courses and speciality
a dragon and buy tat at a floating market dives as well as plain old snorkelling for
in Bangkok. those who don’t want to get their hair wet.
Also runs bubblemaker courses for children.
154
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Sailing & Surfing The best-known surf spot in town is the

You won’t have to sail far from shore before creatively named La Izquierda (Spanish
the hotel jungle of Tenerife’s largest resort Left), which is found just west of Playa de
melts into the gentle slopes of the island. Troyo. A long and easy left with some hollow
Rent a boat, take an excursion or sign up for sections, it’s one of the most localised spots
a whale-watching trip and cruise the waters in Europe.
between Tenerife and La Gomera with the
beautiful outline of El Teide behind you. The K-16 Surf SURFING
tourist office in Los Cristianos has a list of (Map p154; % 922 79 84 80; www.k16surf.com;
companies that organise all kinds of boat Calle México 1-2, Playa de las Américas; surf lessons
trips, some of which even set sail on the high from €35, board rental per day from €12) Rents
seas in a pirate ship – who could resist! out surfboards and provides tuition for only
slightly more than the price of rental.
155
Horse Riding
Playa de las Américas
Note that although there are several places
that offer horse riding, not all are accredited æ Sights
1 Playa de las Vistas ................................D5
and safe.
2 Playa de Troya.......................................B2
Finca Cabuquero HORSE RIDING 3 Siam Park............................................... C1
(% 646 88 38 23; www.horseridingintenerife.com;
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
Aldea Blanca, San Miguel de Abona; 1/2hr trek
4 Aqua Marina ..........................................C5
€25/45; h 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun; c ) A 5 K-16 Surf ................................................B4
British-run horse-riding school that offers a 6 Mare Nostrum.......................................C5
pick-up service from your hotel to their cen-
tre in San Miguel de Abona. Horse and pony ÿ Sleeping
treks range from beginning routes to more 7 Anyka Sur...............................................D5
challenging trails for experienced riders. 8 Marcus Management .......................... D4
9 Villa Cortés ............................................B4
Golf
Constant mild weather means that Tenerife ú Eating
10 Oriental Monkey....................................C5
is a place where golfers can play year-round.
It’s not the most ecologically sound activ-
û Drinking & Nightlife
ity on the island (water is a constant prob- 11 Casablanca ............................................D5
lem, and golf courses need plenty of it) but 12 Las Verónicas........................................B2
that hasn’t stopped sprawling courses from 13 Papagayo ...............................................B2
emerging all around Playa de las Américas.
Some of the best courses are listed here. Note ý Entertainment
Te n e ri fe LFT os
that the fees are for the winter season; prices 14 La Pirámide............................................B5
can drop considerably in midsummer.
þ Shopping
Golf Costa Adeje GOLF 15 Artenerife...............................................B2
(www.golfcostaadeje.com; Finca Los Olivos, Adeje;
estivals
he C
adult/child 18 holes €96/30; h 7.30am-7pm) Has
So
both an 18- and 9-hole course. The eyecatch- companies but all are basically the same, with
r istianos
ing driving range is set on three levels with
u t h & E vents
a two-hour trip costing upwards of €18.
a connecting elevator. Also home to a luxu-
ry hotel offering villa-style accommodation. Travelin’ Lady BOAT TOUR
Located in Adeje, approximately 6km north- (Map p156; % 609 42 98 87; Rincon de Arona,
west of Plaza del Duque. Take the exit 79B Puerto de Los Cristianos; adult/child €18/free;
from the TF-1 Autopista del Sur and follow h 9.30am-8pm Sun-Fri, noon-3pm Sat) Organises , P laya de las A m é r icas & C osta A deje
the signs. two-hour whale-watching trips and uses an
enclosed propeller to prevent any injury to
Golf del Sur GOLF the mammals.
(www.golfdelsur.net; Urbanizacíon Golf del Sur,
San Miguel de Abona; adult/child 18 holes €87/43; Fishing
h 7.30am-7pm) An attractive mature course Deep-sea-fishing jaunts start at about €49
with water features, lofty palms and sea for a three-hour trip. Get information from
views. the kiosks set up at the western end of Playa
de Los Cristianos or from a tourist office.
Los Palos Centro de Golf GOLF
(www.golflospalos.com; Carretera Guaza-Las Galle-
tas Km 7, Arona; adult/child 9 holes €25/17; h 7am-
Canarian Food Fair FOOD
7pm) Attractive small course surrounded by
(h mid-Mar) A week-long event in Los Cris-
banana trees with an emphasis on instruc-
tianos showcasing food and produce from
tion; ideal for beginners.
all over the islands, with free tastings and an
Whale Watching opportunity to purchase.
Companies offering two-, three- and five-
hour boat cruises to check out whales and 5 Eating
dolphins are set up at the end of Playa de Los You won’t go hungry here. The dilemma is
Cristianos, near the port, and in Puerto Colón more likely to be choosing where to go for
in Costa Adeje. Most trips include food, drink the best quality and good value. Avoid res-
and a quick swim. There are several such taurants that advertise their international
1 56
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cuisine with sun-bleached posters on the deserves a medal for its inexpensive, sim-
pavement; though, in general, the quality ply prepared seafood. Here since the ’80s,
of restaurants has improved over the recent the menu is reassuringly brief; the fish of
years and you can, increasingly, find more the day is always a good bet. Tucked in an
sophisticated places to eat, and traditional elbow off the promenade, its atmosphere of
Spanish and Canarian food on offer. no frills and few tourists adds to the appeal.
On the waterfront in the port area of Los
Cristianos is a handful of kiosks, including Sopa VEGETARIAN €
the ever-popular Pescaderia Dominga (Map p156; Calle Montaña Chica 2, Los Cristianos;
(Map p156; Puerto de Los Cristianos; fish €5-9; salads & soups €4-7; h 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-
h noon-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat), selling fresh-
9pm Sun; W v c ) A chilled-out space with
off-the-boat fish. You can either buy it un- sofas, books and magazines provides the
cooked to take away and deal with yourself backdrop for a menu of healthy soups, sal-
or they’ll fry it up for you and then you can ads and burgers (spinach, that is). There are
dangle your legs over the edge of the nearby also delicious cakes. Try the cherry and mar-
jetty and eat the freshest and best fish picnic zipan for a real taste-bud treat.
you’ll ever have. La Pepa Food Market MARKET €
(% 922 79 48 85; www.mercadolapepa.es; Cen-
oEl Cine SEAFOOD €
tro Comercial La Pasarela, Los Cristianos; snacks
(Map p156; www.barelcine.es/en; Calle Juan Bar-
€2.50-5; h 10am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight
iajo 8, Los Cristianos; mains €8-10; h 11am-11pm)
Fri-Sun; p W c ) This gourmet food market
Yes, it’s probably been said before, El Cine
opened in 2015 and is still expanding. At the
1 57
time of research there were some 25 stalls
including upmarket delis, seafood counter,
Los Cristianos
pancakes and waffles stand, sushi, a wine Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
bar and a vegetarian snack stall. There is 1 Travelin' Lady ........................................A3
plenty of seating on a vast terrace with roof-
ÿ Sleeping
top views that stretch to the sea, plus a chil-
2 Hotel Andrea's.......................................C2
dren’s playground. 3 Hotel Reveron Plaza .............................B2
Bar Nuestro CANARIAN €
ú Eating
(Map p156; Calle San Roque 12, Los Cristianos; mains 4 Bar Gavota.............................................C2
€5-8; h 8am-10pm Thu-Tue) A cloth-cap-au- 5 Bar Nuestro ...........................................A3
thentic local bar, Bar Nuestro has a barnlike 6 Cofradia de Pescadores.......................A3
interior and an unwaveringly authentic Ca- 7 El Cine.....................................................B3
narian menu that includes dishes such as 8 Le Bistrôt d'Alain...................................C2
chickpeas with pork sausages and grilled 9 Original Bistro .......................................B2
sardines. 10 Pescaderia Dominga ............................A3
11 Rincón del Marinero .............................A3
Bar Gavota CAFE € 12 Sopa........................................................C2
(Map p156; Avenida los Playeros 27, Los Cristianos;
breakfast €5; h 8am-11pm Mon-Sat) Opposite û Drinking & Nightlife
13 Beach House .........................................B3
the church in Los Cristianos, this is one of
the few central bars that retains its typical ý Entertainment
Spanish feel – as well as a local crowd of 14 Centro Cultural......................................C2
regulars. It’s perfect for a toast-and-coffee
Te n e ri fe LE
breakfast or drinks at any time. þ Shopping
15 La Alpizpa ..............................................B3
oLe Bistrôt d’Alain FRENCH €€ 16 Librería Barbara....................................B2
(Map p156; % 922 75 23 36; Calle Valle Menéndez
T os
23, Los Cristianos; mains €10-15; h 7.30-11pm
h
ating
Tue-Sun) Hidden away from the masses, this ecuted with finesse with not an overboiled
e C
So
formal but unassuming restaurant serves veg in sight.
r istianos
quality classic French fare such as steak with
uth
La Torre del Mirador CANARIAN €€
a Roquefort sauce, frogs’ legs, and more un-
(Map p158; % 922 71 22 09; www.latorredemirador.
usual dishes such as a fish stew crammed
es; Playa del Duque, Costa Adeje; mains €12-16;
with prawns, salmon and veggies. It’s one
h 10am-8pm) This elegant bar and restau-
of the better-regarded places to eat in town
and is understandably popular with French rant has a lovely terrace with colourful flow- , P laya de las A m é r icas & C osta A deje
visitors. ers and palms and delightful sea views. The
menu has several sound seafood choices,
Cofradia de Pescadores SEAFOOD €€ including king prawns in garlic. Or share a
(Map p156; Muelle Los Cristianos, Los Cristianos; platter of pimientos de padron (small fried
mains €10-20; h noon-10pm Sun-Fri) Run by the green peppers), the perfect accompaniment
local fishing co-op, this place has access to to a long cold cerveza after your promenade
the freshest fish and seafood on a daily ba- stroll.
sis. Choose yours from a large tank near the
entrance or go by the daily recommenda-
tions. The dining room is light and spacious HALF-BOARD HEADACHE
with harbour views; to find it, look for the
sign to a small side door, signed ‘Bar’, then Bars and restaurants throughout Ten-
follow the fish frieze upstairs. erife are seriously suffering as hotels
here are increasingly offering half-board
Original Bistro BISTRO €€
all-inclusive deals to their guests at
(Map p156; % 922 79 20 31; Callejón Gonzalo, Los cheap-as-chips prices. Hotel buffets are
Cristianos; mains €10-12; h 6-11pm Wed-Mon; c ) typically based on bland international
Run by a Spanish-English couple, this enor- cuisine aimed at appealing to the mass-
mously popular bistro offers a three-course es. Spread the word to support the local
menu with several choices. You won’t find restaurants and bars, before still more
any foam or drizzle here; dishes are homely se vende signs appear.
and (mainly) traditionally British – but ex-
666
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Costa Adeje oOriental Monkey

h
ASIAN €€€
r einking
æ Sights (Map p158; % 922 78 92 91; www.theorientalmon-

C
So
key.com; Avenida de las Américas, Central Comercial

r istianos
1 Aqualand................................................D3
u t h& N ig h, tlife
Oasis, Playa de las Américas; mains €18-25; h 7-

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 11pm Mon-Sat; W ) Voted top Canary Island in-
2 Aqua Club Termal .................................D2 ternational restaurant in 2013 and with cel-
3 Vitanova Spa ......................................... B1 ebrated chef, Nacho Hernández at the helm,
this gourmet restaurant combines exotic de-
P laya de las A m é r icas & C osta A deje
ÿ Sleeping
cor with an exotic menu of innovatively pre-
4 Baobab Suites ....................................... B1
pared Asian-inspired dishes, ranging from
ú Eating marinated cod in miso, to tuna tataki with
5 La Torre del Mirador............................. A1 smoked aubergine and couscous.
Expect an entertaining evening with
û Drinking & Nightlife video projections of pink butterflies flying
6 Chiringuito del Mirador ........................ A1 across your table or fish swimming across
your plate and muted coloured lights that
þ Shopping
constantly shift and change.
7 Plaza del Duque .................................... B1
6 Drinking & Nightlife

Post-midnight, Los Cristianos’ main action
Rincón del Marinero SEAFOOD €€
takes place at the Centro Comercial San
(Map p156; Muelle Los Cristianos, Los Cristianos; Telmo, the shopping centre behind Playa de
mains €9-15; h noon-11pm) Specialising in local las Vistas, when this daytime-dull little strip
seafood, including a tasty zarzuela (fish and is transformed into a string of nightclubs
seafood stew), this nautical-themed restau- pumping out music late into the night. Look
rant has all its tables under a covered terrace elsewhere if you are seeking somewhere
(proof that there’s never bad weather here). classier; there are alternatives which are in-
creasing all the time.
1 59
oPapagayo BAR, CLUB La Pirámide LIVE MUSIC
(Map p154; www.papagayobeachclub.com; Playa (Map p154; % 922 75 75 49; www.piramidearona.
de Troya, Avenida Rafael Puig Lluvina, Playa de las com; La Pirámide, Avenida de las Américas, Playa
Américas; h 10am-late; W ) This restaurant, de las Américas; tickets from €50; h 8pm Wed,
bar and nightclub oozes sophistication and 9pm Tue, Thu-Sun) This vast auditorium (one
good taste. The decor is predominantly of the largest in Europe) regularly stages
white, with kick-back seating, shady cano- world-class shows that typically combine fla-
pies and water features, while the menu is menco, opera and dance. There is an option
best for light dishes like sushi. Come night to combine the show with a buffet dinner
time the place metamorphoses into a fash- (from €75) with dining times set at 6.30pm
ionable nightclub, complete with a slick pro- and 7pm. However, by all reports, the food
fessional DJ and dancers. is decidedly less impressive than the show.
Chiringuito del Mirador BAR

(Map p158; Playa del Duque, Costa Adeje; h noon-
7 Shopping
Modern shopping centres are mushroom-
7pm) This beach bar (and restaurant) has a
ing throughout the resorts. Los Cristianos
sparkling summer-in-the-sun feel with its has the best choice of small family-owned
glossy white furniture and decor contrast- shops selling more unusual products and
ing with the deep blue of the sea, just a few souvenirs.
metres away. It’s a lovely place for a midday
cocktail or cerveza, accompanied by a plate Plaza del Duque COMMERCIAL CENTRE
of gambas a la plancha (grilled prawns) to (Map p158; www.plazadelduque.com; Playa del
share. Duque, Costa Adeje; h 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm
Te n e ri fe LE
Sat; W c ) A luxurious small shopping centre
Beach House BAR
with around 60 shops, including designer
(Map p156; Paseo Dulce María Lenaz, Los Cristianos;
boutiques and a kids zone.
h 5pm-late; W ) This Italian-run bar has a
classy feel with its chill-out music, pale-grey Artenerife CRAFTS
T os
paintwork, candy-coloured cushions and TV (Map p154; www.artenerife.com; Avenida Rafael
nte
he C
switched to the fashion (rather than foot- Puig Lluvina, Playa de las Américas; h 9.30am-
Sro
ball) channel. Good for cocktails. 1.30pm & 5-7pm Mon-Sat) Part of an island-wide
rtainment
istianos
uth
chain where quality control is very much in
Las Verónicas CLUB
evidence, Artenerife carries a superb range
(Map p154; Centro Commercial Las Verónicas, Playa
of quality handicrafts originating in the Ca-
de las Américas) Comprising three adjacent
nary Islands.
buildings, Las Verónicas has a number of
loud and boisterous nightlife options pri- La Alpizpa CRAFTS
marily aimed at a heavy-drinking British (Map p156; Paseo Marítimo, Los Cristianos;
clientele. h 10am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Sat) Located right
on the seafront, this shop sells high-quality
Casablanca CLUB
and diverse arts and crafts created by people
(Map p154; Centro Comercial San Telmo local 17, Los
with disabilities.
Cristianos; h 11pm-late) The most famous club
in this pulsating strip heaves with gyrating Librería Barbara BOOKS
bodies post-midnight. (Map p156; % 922 79 23 01; Calle Pablo Abril 6, Los
Cristianos; h 10am-1pm & 5-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
3 Entertainment 1pm Sat) Founded in 1984 and selling a wide
Many of the bars along the main Playa de las range of books in several languages includ-
Américas strip have live music at weekends. ing English, French, German and Spanish,
Check at the tourist office for any current plus magazines and children’s titles.
live-music events.
88 Information
Centro Cultural THEATRE
Tourist Office (www.todotenerife.es) Los
(Map p156; www.centroculturalcristiano.org; Plaza
Cristianos (Map p156; % 922 75 71 37; www.
Pescador 1, Los Cristianos; ticket prices vary) Offers arona.org; Centro Cultural, Plaza Pescador 1);
a variety of cultural events, such as Cine de Playa de las Vistas (Map p154; % 922 78 70
Verano, a summer festival of open-air movies 11; Centro Comercial San Telmo); Playa de las
(in Spanish) showing nightly except Wednes- Américas (Map p154; % 922 79 76 68; Centro
day. An auditorium acts as a concert venue. Comercial City Center, Avenida Rafael Puig
160
GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL – TENERIFE SPAS

Holidaying can be tough, especially when there’s so darn much to see and do. Thank
goodness for day spas.
Aqua Club Termal (Map p158; % 922 71 65 55; www.aquaclubtermal.com; Calle Galicia,
Torviscas Alto, Costa Adeje; h 8am-10pm) Around Costa Adeje, escape to this sophisticated
aqua club which, according to its promotional literature, is the most comprehensive ther-
mal and sports complex in Europe. It has 6000 sq metres of floor space, all dedicated to
pampering. Don’t miss the Turkish bath.
Vitanova Spa (Map p158; % 922 71 99 10; www.vitanovatenerife.com; Calle Alcalde Walter
Paetzman, Playa del Duque, Costa Adeje; h 9am-9pm) Located on the Costa Adeje, this spa of-
fers massages and facials as well as such scrumptious delights as a chocolate massage
and an anticellulite scrub with seaweed and grapes.
Mare Nostrum (Map p154; % 922 75 75 45; www.marenostrumspa.es; Avenida de las Améri-
cas, Playa de las Américas; h 10am-7pm) Part of this major resort in Playa de las Américas
and sure to spoil. There are those enticing-sounding fungal wraps and electrotherapy for
serious spa-goers, and massages and steam baths for those seeking to de-stress.
Hotel Botánico Spa (% 922 38 14 00; www.hotelbotanico.com; Avenida Richard J Yeoward 1,
Puerto de la Cruz) This exclusive hotel has an oriental spa centre offering wellness thera-
pies and treatments, plus a Thai pagoda surrounded by lush gardens for traditional Thai
massage, and a hammam (Turkish-style steam bath).
Te n e ri fe LG
Lluvina); Costa Adeje (Map p154; % 922 71 65 There are taxi stands outside most shopping
39; Avenida Litoral) The Costa Adeje office is centres. Getting a taxi at night usually isn’t a
by the Barranco del Rey. problem, as most people choose to walk. A ride
T as
h
etting
across town should cost between €6 and €8.

e G
88 Getting There & Away

Soalletas
u tThh e r e & Away
BUS
Las Galletas
Plenty of Tenerife’s bright-green TITSA buses
come through the area, stopping at stations in Las Galletas is a small resort town a few kilo-
Los Cristianos and Playa de las Américas. Buses metres south of the Las Américas strip and,
110 (direct; €12.40, one hour, every 30 minutes) in comparison, is as quiet as a Sunday after-
and 111 (indirect) come and go from Santa Cruz. noon in a library; for many people that is
Bus 343 goes to Tenerife Sur airport (€3.70, 45 its attraction. A block back from the board-
minutes). The same bus continues on to Tenerife walk, the leafy Rambla Dionisio González,
Norte airport. Plenty of other buses run through with benches and playgrounds, leads to the
the two resorts, en route to destinations such as tourist office and the sea.
Arona (bus 480), Los Gigantes (bus 473), Puerto
de la Cruz (bus 343), El Médano (bus 470) and
Las Galletas (bus 467).
r Beaches
Playa Las Galletas BEACH
The Playa de las Américas bus station is situ-
ated between central Las Américas, San Eugenio Bring your own towel and sunshade to this
and the autovía. There’s no Los Cristianos bus pleasant volcanic sand-and-pebble stretch in
station, as such; the buses stop on Avenida Juan Las Galletas. It is backed by a lovely prom-
Carlos I, just beyond the cross road with Avenida enade with bars and some excellent seafood
Amsterdam, opposite the Valdes Commercial restaurants.
Centre. For 24-hour bus information, call % 922
53 13 00. 2 Activities
Wind and water have carved the dramatic
88 Getting Around rock formations of Montaña Amarilla (Yel-
Most of the long-distance bus routes double as low Mountain), a volcanic mound on the
local routes, stopping along the major avenues coast outside town. To get here, take Avenida
of Los Cristianos and Playa de las Américas José Antonio Tavio (beside the Ten Bel com-
before heading out of town. plex) down to Calle Chasna. At the end of the
street is a small car park and a path leading
16 1
you down to the water. You can ramble across THE EAST
the rocks, enjoying a building-free view of the
coast, or hike around the montaña. The east coast of Tenerife is the forgotten
coast of the island and at first glance that’s
Buceo Tenerife Diving Center DIVING hardly surprising: the landscape of the east
(% 922 73 10 15; www.buceotenerife.com; Calle is dry, dusty and sterile, but it is speckled
María del Carmen García 22; dive with equipment with bright and colourful little villages,
rental €36; h 9am-6pm) This well-established which bring life to the otherwise stark sur-
diving school offers discounts for multiple roundings. If you have the time, then it pays
dives. to explore this region a little more. There are
some pleasant low-key beach towns and a
Escuela de Vela las Galletas WINDSURFING
much more local vibe than can be found in
(%629 87 81 02; Playa Las Galletas; windsurfer/ the international resorts of the south coast.
catamaran rental per hr €17/35; h11am-6pm If you’re approaching the east coast from
Tue-Sun) This well-established place rents the southern resorts, do yourself a favour by
sailboats and windsurfers and also offers taking the winding TF-28 highway, former-
courses. ly the principal thoroughfare, which crawls
along the scenic mountain ridge above the
5 Eating coast. The alternative is the very busy mo-
For simple tapas bars frequented by locals torway (TF-1), which links the south to San-
enjoying a tipple, head for the small streets ta Cruz in an approximately 40-minute easy
leading off the central Rambla Dionisio drive.
González. Otherwise, the promenade has
the best restaurant choice.
Te n e ri fe C
Bajío SEAFOOD €€
Candelaria
POP 16,000
(% 922 73 10 39; Puerto de Las Galletas; mains €12-
15) A friendly young team run this sea-blue- Just 18km south of Santa Cruz is Candelaria,
a charming small fishing village where the
Th
E
painted fish restaurant overlooking the boat-
ating
andela
yard. Prettily presented and tasty, the dishes main claim to fame is the basilica, home
e E astr ia
here include a succulent tagliolini con mejil- to the patron saint of the entire Canary
lones (pasta with mussels) and a fritura de archipelago. It is well worth a visit, par-
pescada (fried fish) platter for two. ticularly on Sundays when the atmosphere
takes on an almost pilgrimage feel as locals
La Gaviota SEAFOOD €€ throng to the church to attend mass and the
(% 922 78 59 44; Calle La Marina 9; mains €10-
16; h noon-10pm Thu-Tue; p ) Continue west
along the promenade and beyond to reach
this atmospheric seafood restaurant right
on the beach. There’s a live Canarian croon- EXPLORING THE EAST COAST
er at Sunday lunchtime to accompany your After visiting the pyramids at Güímar,
zarzuela platter (€24 for two people), or continue on past El Escobonal to Fasnia
similar. and the tiny Ermita de la Virgen de
los Dolores, a chapel perched on a hill
88 Information at the edge of town (off the TF-620 high-
Tourist Office (% 922 73 01 33; www.todoten- way). It’s usually closed, but is worth
erife.es; h 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm the short drive up for the panoramic
Sat & Sun) At the western end of La Rambla, views of the harsh, dry landscape. Keep
the tree-lined walkway that runs parallel to the on the TF-620 past the ermita to reach
Paseo Marítimo. Roques de Fasnia, a little town carved
into the volcanic cliff. There’s a tranquil
88 Getting There & Away black-sand beach that’s rarely crowded.
Las Galletas is a few kilometres off the TF-1, exit A bit further south is Porís de Abona,
26. Buses 467, 470 and 473 connect the town a charming little fishing village albeit
hourly with Los Cristianos (€1.90, 30 minutes), surrounded by new housing. There’s
while buses 112 and 115 (€8.50, 1¼ hours) come an attractive small cove here, complete
and go from Santa Cruz. with fishing boats and a dark sandy
beach where you can take a dip.
162
THE VIRGIN OF CANDELARIA

In 1392, a century before Tenerife was conquered, a statue of the Virgin Mary holding
a candela (candlestick) washed up on the shore near modern-day Candelaria. The
Guanche shepherds who found the statue took it to their king and, according to legend,
the people worshipped it. When the Spanish conquered the island a century later, they
deemed the statue miraculous, and in 1526 Commander Pedro Fernández de Lugo or-
dered a sanctuary be built.
The logical explanation of the ‘miracle’ is that the statue was either the figurehead
from a wrecked ship, or a Virgin brought by French or Portuguese sailors, who had been
on the island before the Spanish conquest. In either case, the statue was swept away by
a violent storm in 1826 and never found. The ornate statue that is today swathed in robes
in the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Candelaria was carved soon after by local artist
Fernando Estévenez. On 15 August, the day she was supposedly found by the Guanches,
the Virgin is honoured by processions, numerous Masses and a kitschy re-enactment of
costumed ‘Guanches’ worshipping her.
surrounding small shops, selling religious

artefacts, flowers, souvenirs and similar, stay Güímar & Around
open all day. Don’t bother visiting the drab POP 16,000
modern adjacent resort of Las Caletillas, A rural town with views of a gauzy blue
which has little to commend it aside from
Te n e ri fe G
ocean in the distance, Güímar’s centre is

a decent-size black pebble beach. There are well kept and pleasant for a stroll. Most folk
plenty of earthy local bars and restaurants come here to visit the enigmatic pyramids.
around the shopping street and harbour in
Candelaria. 1 Sights
Th
S ig
Ü eÍ h
Pirámides de Güímar
1 Sights RUINS
MEts
(% 922 51 45 10; www.piramidesdeguimar.net; Calle

Aast
Basílica de Nuestra Señora de

R & AROUND
Chacon, Güímar; adult/child €11/free; h 9.30am-

Candelaria CHURCH 6pm; p ) These much-restored pyramid ru-
(h 7.30am-1pm & 3-7.30pm Tue-Sun; p ) This ins explore an intriguing question: could
large domed church dates from 1959 and sits the Canarios have had contact with Amer-
at the edge of the town centre, overlooking ica before Columbus famously sailed the
a rocky beach and flanked by a plaza where ocean blue? This theory was developed by
nine huge statues of Guanche warriors renowned Norwegian scientist Thor Heyer-
stand guard. During the official festivities dahl, who lived on Tenerife until his death in
for the Virgen de la Candelaria celebration 2002 and based his ideas on the Mayan-like
on 15 August, this plaza fills with pilgrims pyramids discovered in Güímar.
and partygoers from all over the islands. If
you visit during a mass, you will probably Archeological & Ethnographical
find it is standing room only. Museum of Agache MUSEUM
(% 922 53 04 95; Plaza El Escobonal, El Escobonal;
88 Information h 5-7pm Mon-Fri) F This modest museum
in El Escobonal displays all kinds of odds
There’s a small tourist office (% 922 50 04 25;
and ends related to Guanche and island
Avenida Marítimo 176; h 9am-2pm & 4.30-7pm)
just north of the basilica.
culture.
88 Getting There & Away 5 Eating

Café al Mar CAFE €
If you’re driving, take exit 9 off the TF-1 motor-
(% 626 39 00 96; Porís de Abona; sandwiches €2.50;
way. Buses 111, 112, 115, 116, 122, 123 and 131
h 8am-5pm) This pint-sized German-owned
connect the town with Santa Cruz (€2.35, 30
minutes). cafe overlooks the small black-sand cove in
Porís de Abona and serves simple fare like
sandwiches, as well as great coffee and other
drinks.
16 3
88 Getting There & Away 30 Nudos Kite School KITESURFING
(% 922 17 89 05; www.30nudos.com; Paseo
The roughly hourly buses 120 and 121 from San-
ta Cruz (€3.40, 50 minutes) stop at the Güímar Nuestra Señora Mercedes de Roja 24; 3hr course
bus station, a few blocks from the pyramids. To €145; h 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) A superfriendly
explore the surroundings you really need your and professional kitesurfing school with an
own wheels. excellent reputation.
5 Eating
El Médano Imperio del Pintxo TAPAS €
POP 1250 (Emilio José Garrido, Playa Chico; raciónes €7-9.50;
Not yet squashed by steamroller develop- h 10am-midnight; c ) Run by a young ener-
ment, El Médano is a world-class spot for getic team with a view of the beach and the
kitesurfers. The laid-back atmosphere they kitesurfers beyond, like so many colourful
bring with them gives the place a dab of bo- butterflies. Come here for tasty tapas and
hemian character and it’s altogether a much raciónes platters to share such as vegetable
more pleasant place to stay than nearby Las tempura, goat-cheese parcels in light flaky
Américas. pastry and prawns topped with a spicy mojo
sauce.
r Beaches El Astillero de Avencio SEAFOOD €€
Playa El Médano BEACH
(% 922 17 82 20; Paseo Marcial García 2; mains €12-
El Médano boasts the longest beach in Ten- 15; h 1-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Just about the best
erife (2km), lined by a wooden boardwalk – location in town, overlooking the waves,
ideal for evening strolls, but that same wind
Te n e ri fe E
the seafood and fish here is reliably good
that makes it so good for windsurfing makes and the paella has received rave reviews
it less than ideal for sunbathing. from readers but, as is so often the case in
Playa La Tejita BEACH Spanish seafood restaurants, the veg is a tad
sparse, along with the choice of desserts.
T lh
G
Stretching for around 1km, this delightful
etting
unspoiled beach has a simple straw-roofed
eM Eé ast
bar for drinks and snacks. It’s just east of the 88 Information
dano
main Playa El Médano; the first section is Tourist Office (% 922 17 60 02; www.todoten-
T h e r e & Away
nudist. erife.es; Plaza del Médano; h 9am-3pm Mon-
Fri, to 1pm Sat) A well-stocked tourist office
2 Activities which can also provide maps covering four
local walks.
The sails of kitesurfers speckle the horizon
here. There are several companies that offer
classes and equipment rental, but novices 88 Getting There & Away
note that the winds are very strong and chal- El Médano is just east of the Tenerife Sur airport,
lenge even the pros. off exit 22 of the TF-1. Bus 470 leaves hourly to
Los Cristianos (€3.60, one hour 35 minutes),
Azul Kite School KITESURFING and bus 116 leaves every two hours from Santa
(% 922 17 83 14; www.azulkiteboarding.com; Paseo Cruz (€7.35, 1¼ hours).
Mercedes Roja 26; 3hr course €145; h 11am-8pm
Tue-Sat) A well-established school offering a
range of courses for beginners, as well as for
more advanced kitesurfers.
Accommodation
Includes  W here to Stay
Gran Canaria................218 Whitewashed apartments set around bougainvillea-clad
Fuerteventura..............221 gardens, historic farmhouses transformed into charming
Lanzarote.................... 223 self-catering cottages, boutique hotels taking advantage of
Tenerife....................... 226 their mountain-top locations and basic pensiones located in
atmospheric old buildings. Accommodation in the Canary
La Gomera.................. 229 Islands offers far more than the colossal apartment com-
La Palma......................231 plexes and uber-luxurious five-star hotels typical of tourist
El Hierro...................... 233 resorts – though there are plenty of those as well.
The largest and most popular island is Tenerife, where
the high-profile tourist resorts are in the south. Puerto de
la Cruz, in the north, has excellent tourist facilities, while
historic La Laguna is a charming inland choice.
Best Places to Fuerteventura has two main resorts: Morro Jable in the
Sleep south, and Corralejo in the north, which has a pretty har-
¨¨Villa del Conde (p220) bour at its heart. A quieter coastal option with great budget
accommodation is El Cotillo, a short drive from Corralejo.
¨¨Casa Isaítas (p222)
Lanzarote’s Puerto del Carmen, Costa Teguise and Playa
¨¨Hotel Alhambra (p227) Blanca are the main tourist areas, while the capital, Arrecife
¨¨Hotel San Telmo (p232) is a good base.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria combines a great beach with
city sophistication, while the southern resorts are unabash-
Best Budget edly family orientated. La Palma’s Los Cancajos and Puerto
Naos beaches are among the best on the island, while the
Options centre hinterland is home to atmospheric casas rurales.
¨¨Downtown House (p218) On the smallest islands, La Gomera and El Hierro, accom-
¨¨Soulsurfer Hotel (p222) modation is predominantly midrange and includes atmos-
pheric rural offerings.
¨Ël Sitio (p234)
¨¨Hotel Adonis Capital (p226)
Pricing
The price indicators in this guide refer to the cost of a dou-
Best ble room, including private bathroom and excluding break-
Self-Catering fast unless otherwise noted. Where half-board (breakfast
and dinner) or full board (breakfast, lunch and dinner) is
¨Äpartamentos Tapahuga
included, this is mentioned in the price. In the budget cate-
(p231)
gory you may have to share a bathroom and facilities will be
¨¨La Fuente (p232) limited, though wi-fi is becoming more common. Midrange
217
choices often include satellite TV, private In practice, there is little difference be-
balconies and, usually, wi-fi, while top-end tween pensiones – one- to two-star guest-
rooms offers all this plus more, and are often houses – and hostales (small hotels, not youth
located in sumptuous historic buildings. hostels). At the one-star end of either you may
well find cramped, dank rooms and shared
Category Cost
bathrooms (with perhaps a simple washbasin
€ budget less than €65 in the room), while at a slightly higher price
you could find charming gems with private
Ac c o m m o dati o n P r i c i n g
€€ midrange €65–140
€€€ top end more than €140 bathrooms and stylish decor. Hoteles range
from simple places to luxurious, five-star es-
tablishments with complimentary bathrobes,
Apartments spa treatments and superior restaurants.
Apartments for rent are much more com- You will find a few backpacker-style hos-
mon than hotels. Quality can vary greatly, tels featuring dorms, shared kitchen and
but they can be more comfortable than a the like in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and
simple pensión and considerably more eco- some of the surf towns.
nomical, especially if there are several of you
and you plan to self-cater. The two principal Paradores
categories are estudios (studios), with a living The paradores, a Spanish state-run chain of
room and bedroom combined, and the more high-class hotels with six establishments in
frequent apartamento, where you get a dou- the Canary Islands, are in a special catego-
ble bedroom and separate lounge. Both have ry. They can be wonderful places to luxuri-
separate bathroom and a kitchenette. Also ate. They also offer a range of discounts for
common are aparthotels (apartment-hotels), senior citizens, under-30s and those staying
which function exactly like hotels in terms of more than one night. You can find current
service, but with large rooms that include a offers at www.parador.es.
kitchenette – more like a small apartment.
Many apartment complexes are contract- Camping
ed to tour operators and don’t rent to inde- For a place with so much natural beauty,
pendent travellers; even those that do may there are precious few places to camp in
insist upon a minimum three-night stay. the Canary Islands. Most islands have just
In the case of privately owned apartments, one token official campsite and free camp-
most of the time the owner doesn’t live in the ing is largely prohibited. Occasionally you
building so there’s little point in just turning will happen across a usually amenity-free
up – you generally need to call ahead. campsite in some of the smaller towns, but
staying there can be a bit of a headache. You
Casas Rurales have to apply in person for permission from
These rural self-catering houses and hotels the ayuntamiento (town hall) or cabildo
are generally converted farmsteads or vil- (island government). If you are travelling
lage houses and are often a highly agreeable with a tent, it’s always worth asking the local
option for those seeking to escape the bustle tourist information office about the availa-
of the resorts. It’s essential to call ahead as bility of campgrounds in the vicinity and
they usually offer limited places and there how to gain access.
may be no-one in attendance. Many casas
rurales are distant from public transport,
so check whether a hire car is necessary or SEASONS
desirable. They usually represent excellent
value for the charm of their setting and fa- Prices throughout this guide are
cilities, and can be a great base for hiking. high-season maximums. That said, virtu-
ally any time is tourist time in the Canar-
Hotels, Hostels & Pensiones ies although, strictly speaking, the high
While you will find plenty of four- to five-star season is winter, when the Canaries can
hoteles, particularly in the resorts, there is a offer sunshine, warmth and an escape
lack of midrange hotel accommodation in from the rigours of the northern Europe-
the islands. Midrange options are usually of an winter. July and August are also busy
the self-catering ilk. Similarly, budget accom- times of year as this is when the majority
modation can be rather thin on the ground. of mainland Spanish take their holidays.
218
GRAN CANARIA coup that started the Spanish Civil War
from room No 3 (and reputedly left without
Gran Canaria has, arguably, the best range of paying!). The interior is a beguiling mix of
accommodation in the Canaries, depending agreeable tat, priceless antiques and hang-
on whether you want to wake up to sounds ing plants. Rooms with balconies overlook-
of birdsong, the surf or surrounded by the vig- ing the plaza are slightly more expensive.
our and excitement of a Spanish mainland– There’s an atmospheric bar and restau-
style city.
Ac c o m m o dati o n G r
rant downstairs.
Las Palmas de Gran Ciudad Jardín

Canaria Hotel Santa Catalina HOTEL €€
(% 928 24 30 40; www.hotelsantacatalina.com; Calle
León y Castillo 227; s/d incl breakfast €100/115;
Vegueta & Triana paiW ) This historic hotel is truly mag-
oDowntown House HOSTEL € nificent, with traditional Canarian balconies,
RAN
(Map p46; % 639 629335; www.houselaspalmas. showy turrets and a red-carpet-style arcaded
an Ca
com; Calle Domingo J Navarro 10; dm €18, s/d entrance. The rooms won’t disappoint: there
€38/48, without bathroom €28/38; W ) Located are king-size beds, antique bedheads, orien-
ANARIA
just off Calle Mayor de Triana, this fabulous tal carpets and plush furnishings. It exudes
naria
1920s building was designed by the same the class of another era, with its piano bar
architect as the elegant Gabinete Literario. and hammam (Turkish bath) and delightful
Rooms are spotlessly clean and simply dec- views of either the sea or subtropical gardens.
orated, showcasing the original ornate tiled
floors. A basic, DIY breakfast is included in Santa Catalina & Playa de las
the price. There’s a minimum two-night stay
and advance bookings are required as there
Canteras
is no reception. La Ventana Azul HOSTEL €
(Map p48; % 671 505359; www.ventana-azul.de;
Hotel Parque HOTEL € Paseo de las Canteras 53; dm €18, s/d without bath-
(Map p46; % 928 36 80 00; www.hotelenlaspalmas. room €32/55; W ) A spectacularly located hos-
es; Calle Muelle Las Palmas 2; s/d incl breakfast tel on the beachfront. The six-person dorm
€55/60; p aW ) This six-storey hotel is ex- has ocean views, but the best place to enjoy
cellently positioned overlooking the Parque the vista is from the rooftop terrace with its
San Telmo. The best views are from the roof- chill-out area. Staying here isn’t just about
top restaurant. The great-value rooms have relaxing, though – the owner is a surfing fa-
had a stylish revamp, with simple decor in natic and can advise on which of the city’s 12
muted tones. If you’re staying a while or surf spots will serve your needs. Skateboards
plan to spend time in your room, consider and snorkelling gear are free for guests to
upgrading to a considerably more spacious use and staff can arrange all manner of out-
doble plus room (€72). door pursuits around the island.
Hotel Madrid HOTEL € Apartamentos Brisamar APARTMENT €
(Map p46; % 928 36 06 64; www.elhotelmadrid. (Map p48; % 928 26 94 00; www.brisamarcanter-
com; Plazoleta Cairasco 4; s/d €35/45, without as.com; Paseo de las Canteras 49; seafacing studio
bathroom €30/40; W ) This place abounds in €60; W ) The decent-sized studio apartments
charm and history: General Franco stayed here aren’t going to win any awards for de-
here in 1936 and supposedly launched the cor, but when it comes to views, Brisamar is
unbeatable. The terraces overlook Playa de
las Canteras, which is just metres away. The
BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE penthouse apartment (two people €80) is
huge, with three bedrooms, a large kitchen
For more accommodation reviews by
and two sea-facing balconies. Slightly cheap-
Lonely Planet authors, check out hotels.
er rooms without the view are available.
lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find independ-
ent reviews, as well as recommenda- Apartamentos Playa Dorada APARTMENT €€
tions on the best places to stay. Best of (Map p48; % 928 26 51 00; www.playadoradaweb.
all, you can book online. com; Calle Luis Morote 61; studio €65, apt €95; W )
These spacious apartments have enough
219
kitchen cupboards for a family of four and
massive ocean-facing terraces. The rooms TAXES
have a retro ’60s feel with their white plastic Virtually all accommodation prices are
bar stools, tubular lights and swivel chairs. subject to IGIC, the Canary Islands’ in-
There are also smaller studio apartments direct tax, charged at a rate of 7%. This
with a more modern look. There are good tax is often included in the quoted price
off-peak discounts and no supplements for at the cheaper places, but less often at
ocean-facing rooms. the more expensive ones. In some cases
NH Imperial Playa HOTEL €€ you will only be charged the tax if you
(Map p48; % 928 46 88 54; www.nh-hoteles.com; ask for a receipt.
Calle Ferreras 1; r with sea views €95; p a W s )
The lobby here draws you in with its black pais) Set among lush banana planta-
tubular lamps, chocolate-brown paintwork, tions about 1.5km west of town, this aesthet-
sage-green sofas and a magnificently quirky ically renovated country estate dates back to
version of Velázquez’ Las Meninas executed 1572. The rooms are rustic yet elegant, with
in colourful tiles. The rooms are pleasant
RAN
white linen, beamed ceilings and luxuri-
an Ca
but impersonal, with mostly beige furnish- ant carpets. Service can be a little brusque
ings. Those on the seafront have views of the though, and the restaurant receives mixed
ANARIA
entire beach stretched out before them.
naria
reviews from readers: consider dining in
town. Wi-fi in public areas only.
T he East
Agaete & Puerto de las Nieves
Hotel Puerto de las Nieves HOTEL €€
Agüimes
(% 928 88 62 56; www.hotelpuertodelasnieves.es;
Hotel Rural Casa de los Camellos HOTEL €€ Avenida Alcalde José de Armas, Puerto de las Nieves;
(% 928 78 50 53; www.hotelruralcasadeloscamellos. r incl breakfast €80; p ai W ) A bright hotel a
com; Calle Progreso 12; r incl breakfast €85; paW ) few blocks back from the ocean and an easy
A lovely place tucked down a narrow pedes- walk to numerous seafood restaurants. The
trian street in the historic centre. Rooms are modern rooms have had funky paint jobs
elegant yet rustic, with antiques and wood- that contrast with the shiny parquet floors.
en beams and balconies. Sadly, the excellent Rooms either have a lounge or – even bet-
restaurant (in a former camel stable) is no ter – large terraces with sunbed space. The
longer open to nonguests. attached spa has thalassotherapy treatments
and an array of massages.
T he North Hotel El Cabo HOTEL €€

(% 928 88 75 20; www.hotelelcabo.com; Calle Antón
Cerezo 20, Puerto de las Nieves; r incl breakfast €88;
Teror a W ) Located in the heart of the town, this
Casa Rural Doña Margarita HOTEL €€ small hotel has the air of a guesthouse about
(% 928 63 19 21; www.margaritacasarural.com; it, with friendly staff and individually deco-
Calle Padre Cueto 4; 2-/4-person apt €85/130; rated rooms. Rooms are bright and slickly
W ) A beautifully restored, colonial-style furnished but tight on space. Some overlook
18th-century house located just off the an internal courtyard; street-facing rooms
main square. There are three large and are more expensive (€100). Breakfast is the
homey apartments with fully equipped normal continental affair.
kitchens, pleasant bedrooms and large sit-
ting-cum-dining rooms with wooden beams
and stone walls. There is a minimum two Central Mountains
days’ stay.
Tejeda
Arucas Fonda de la Tea BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
Hacienda del Buen Suceso HOTEL €€€ (% 928 66 64 22; www.hotelfondadelatea.com; Calle
(% 928 62 29 45; www.haciendabuensuceso. Ezequiel Sánchez 22; s/d €60/95; aW ) This
com; Ctra de Arucas a Bañaderos; s/d €128/140; traditional stone-clad building has been
220
transformed into a charming small hotel. stucco exterior and lush, mature gardens set
Rooms are set around a Canarian-style court- amid small pools and fountains. The rooms
yard and are tastefully decorated with plenty have an Andalucian feel, with terracotta tiles,
of terracotta tiling, pumpkin-coloured paint- dark-wood fittings and beams combined
work and wood. The solarium has stunning with soothing pastel-coloured paintwork.
views across the valley and guests have access
to the municipal pool in the summer. Sahara Beach Club HOTEL €€
(% 928 76 07 76; www.sahara-beach-club.com;
Avenida Alemania 53; 2-person bungalow €75;

Around Tejeda W s ) This low-rise complex overlooks the
Parador de Cruz de Tejeda HOTEL €€ dunes and has a tranquil, homey atmos-
(% 928 01 25 00; www.parador.es; Cruz de Tejeda; r phere with basic bungalows and lovely gar-
€100; paW ) The interior of this luxurious, dens. There are private terraces with small
state-run hotel matches low-key sophistica- lawns and rose bushes. The minimum stay
tion with a muted earth-colour palette, ac- is four days; most guests stay for several
centuated by tasteful artwork and framed by weeks. Book well in advance.
RAN
truly outstanding views of the surrounding

Rainbow Golf Bungalows
an Ca
BUNGALOW €€
gorges and cliffs. There is a luxurious spa
(% 928 58 73 08; www.rainbowgolfbungalows.com;
for enjoying after your daily hikes; the staff
Calle Touroperador Finnmatkat 5; s/d €75/80;
ANARIA
can provide detailed maps. There’s a good

naria
aWs ) It’s not dead central, but this

restaurant here serving upmarket Canarian
well-regarded complex is worth the walk. The
cuisine.
sleek, minimalist bungalows have private
Hotel Rural El Refugio HOTEL €€ terraces and well-equipped kitchenettes –
(% 928 66 65 13; www.hotelruralelrefugio.com; plus a bottle of bubbly on arrival! Facilities
Cruz de Tejeda; s/d €65/80; pas ) This hotel include jacuzzi, sauna and outdoor gym. The
has long been a popular choice with walkers. resort is exclusively for gay men.
It has an unpretentious rustic charm with
a popular and reasonably priced restaurant oVilla del Conde HOTEL €€€
and bar, and rooms that boast appropriate- (% 928 56 32 00; www.lopesanhr.com; Mar Medi-
ly great views of the surrounding striking terrańneo 7; s/d €145/190; paWs ) Luxurious
landscape. Villa del Conde was designed to showcase
typical Canarian architecture. The ‘tradition-
al town’ approach could feel tacky, but it has
San Bartolomé de Tirajana been executed so tastefully that it somehow
Hotel Rural Las Tirajanas HOTEL €€€ works. Overlooking the mini village is an
(%928 56 69 69; www.hotelrurallastirajanas. impressive reception area modelled on the
com; Calle Oficial Mayor Jose Rubio; s/d €95/150; neoclassical church in Agüimes. Facilities
paWs) This alpine-style lodge has spec- include tennis courts, several restaurants, a
tacular views of soaring mountains. Rooms mini club and a thalassotherapy spa. There’s
are old-school luxurious, with wood fur- a minimum two-night stay.
nishings, terracotta tiles and chintzy bed-
Palm Beach HOTEL €€€
spreads and curtains. There is also a spa,
(% 928 72 10 32; www.hotel-palm-beach.co.uk;
a fitness centre and a chapel if you fancy
Avenida Oasis; d from €150; paWs ) From out-
tying the knot. It’s a great base for hikers
side it looks like just another outsized resort
and bikers.
hotel, but step within and the Palm Beach
is a riot of colour and exciting modern de-
sign. The lobby sports brightly striped sofas,
T he South massive abstracts on the walls, white tubular
lamps and glass bowls of green apples. The
Playa del Inglés & Maspalomas rooms are all different and similarly snazzy.
Parque Tropical Hotel HOTEL €€
(% 928 77 40 12; www.hotelparquetropical.com; Puerto De Mogán
Avenida Italia 1; s/d €75/105; pWs ) A real gem
Pensión Eva PENSIÓN €
in this sea of generic high-rise hotels. Dating (% 928 56 52 35; Calle Lomo Quiebre 35; r without
back to the 1960s, this hotel has a traditional bathroom €20) About 750m inland, heading
Canarian look with wooden balconies, white north from town, this excellent-value place
221
has light-filled rooms, a spacious rooftop
terrace and – best news of all – a communal PACKAGE DEALS
kitchen with a couple of fridges that makes
There are more than 500 hotels, apart-
self-catering (and socialising) a breeze.
ment blocks and bungalows in Playa del
Hotel THE Puerto de Mogán HOTEL €€ Inglés and Maspalomas; in peak periods
(% 928 56 50 66; www.hotelpuertodemogan.com; many are full to bursting. Consider book-
Playa de Mogán; d incl half-board €140, apt from €70; ing a package deal before you arrive;
Ac c o m m o dati o n F ue
aWs ) Beside the yacht-filled harbour, the this is often the cheapest way to spend
accommodation here consists of large airy a week or two in the Canaries. Use the
doubles and apartments (two to four people) resort as a base and head out each day
with all the trimmings. Bag a room with a to explore, returning for an evening dip
terrace overlooking the infinity pool with the at your well-priced apartment complex.
beach beyond. Note that half-board is obliga-
tory for the hotel rooms and there is a three-
night minimum stay. Facilities include a spa.
Puerto del Rosario
UEr
La Venecia de Canarias APARTMENT €€ Hotel Tamasite HOTEL €
R te
(% 928 56 56 00; www.laveneciadecanarias.net; Lo-
TEv
(% 928 53 14 94; www.hoteltamasite.com; Calle
cal 328, Urbanización Puerto de Mogán; 1-/2-bedroom
Ve
León y Castillo 9; s/d €25/40; aW ) The Tama-
En
apt €65/110; W ) Right in the thick of the re- site is a well-situated, two-star hotel that has
N tu
TUr
sort’s pretty ‘Venetian’ quarter, with a truly pleasant if mildly scuffed rooms with floral
RA
lovely frontage surrounded by terrace bars, bedspreads, pine furniture and small balco-
a
this well-managed complex has attractive, if nies. The public areas are spacious and com-
smallish, apartments that sleep between three fortable and the service comes with a smile.
and five people. You’ll pay more for the apart-
ments with roof terraces and harbour views. Hostal Roquemar HOSTAL €
(% 928 53 15 47; Avenida Ruperto González Negrín
Hotel Cordial Mogán Playa HOTEL €€€ 1; s/d €25/30; W ) Located on a busy corner
(% 928 72 41 00; www.cordialcanarias.com; Aveni- across from the promenade, this 10-room
da de los Marrero 2; s/d incl breakfast €100/145; hotel has pleasant enough rooms with
p aWs ) Despite its size, the Cordial fridges and fans. Avoid those in the interior,
Mogán Playa does not mar the low-rise land- which can be dark. If possible, opt for one of
scape of the town. Echoing the harbour with the corner rooms that have two balconies –
waterways and bridges, the public areas are request room Nos 103, 204 or 304. There is
a delight, while the rooms are all earth col- free wi-fi in the lobby.
ours, expensive marble and gold-and-cream
striped wallpaper. There’s a spa, tennis La Rosa del Taro CASA RURAL €
courts and an excellent restaurant. (% 928 17 51 08; www.fuerterural.com; Atalaya Rosa

del Tauro 92; 2-person house €50; pW ) S Situ-
ated 13km southwest of the capital, this casa
Mogán rural is ideal for walkers and birdwatchers.
Casa El Siroco B&B €€ The traditional cottage is simply furnished
(% 928 56 93 01; www.casa-el-siroco.com; Calle San and the price includes fresh eggs and home-
Antonio 6; r €70-90; W ) This charming B&B in grown fruit and veggies from the owners’
an 18th-century former schoolhouse in the farm. Solar power, recycled water (for the gar-
centre of Mogán has been creatively trans- den) and a refreshing lack of TV equal a tran-
formed by the German artist-owner. There quil ecofriendly stay. Minimum three days
are just two rooms, both boldly colourful with with discounts for stays of more than a week.
Andrea’s evocative landscape photos on the
walls. A hearty cooked breakfast is included Hotel JM Puerto Rosario HOTEL €€
in the price. It’s just behind the church. (% 928 85 94 64; www.jmhoteles.com; Avenida Ru-
perto González Negrín 9; s/d incl breakfast €78/118;
a W ) This corporate-style hotel comprises
FUERTEVENTURA 88 rooms that are more attractive than its
looming modern exterior would suggest.
Corralejo and Morro Jable have the most Beds are big, bathrooms are decent and fa-
beds here, although casas rurales are in- cilities are good.
creasingly sprouting up in the rural interior.
222
with accommodation. There’s a minimum
T he Centre three-night stay.
THE Corralejo Beach HOTEL €€
Pájara (% 928 53 56 51; www.corralejobeach.com; Calle
oCasa Isaítas CASA RURAL €€
Víctor Grau Bassas 1; studios €75, 2-person apt
(% 928 16 14 02; www.casaisaitas.com; Calle Guize €100; s ) Hard to miss thanks to a some-
what disarming pea-green-and-white exte-
Ac c o m m o dati o n F ue
7; s/d incl breakfast €66/84; a ) One of the love-

liest casas rurales on the island, the loving- rior. Within you’ll find friendly service and
ly restored 18th-century stone house has two decent, if slightly faded, rooms set around
plant-filled central courtyards, traditional a large pool. It’s very close to the beach,
wooden balconies and an outside barbecue though only a few rooms have ocean views.
complete with giant paella pan; evening oAvanti BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
meals are an optional extra but recommend- (% 928 86 75 23; www.avantihotelboutique.com;
ed. There are just four rustic rooms, a couple Avenida Marítima; r incl breakfast €140; aW ) This
of which were part of the original house. marvellous boutique hotel exudes chic relax-
UEr
ation with its minimalist design, high-end

R te
Caleta de Fuste & Around

TEv
furnishings and whitewashed everything.

Ve
Barceló Castillo Beach Resort RESORT €€

Sitting close to the old harbour, it has a defi-
En
nite marine feel, but steers well clear of the

N tu
(% 928 16 31 00; www.barcelo.com; Avenida Castil-

TUr
lo; bungalows from €85; paiW s ) This fran- tacky. Facilities include a rooftop solarium
RA
chise is so large it deserves its own postcode. and jacuzzi. Children must be over 16.
a
The whole place has a sumptuous feel, with

bougainvillea-draped bungalows and lush El Cotillo
landscaped gardens fronting onto the wide
arc of a beach. Facilities are superb and in-
oSoulsurfer Hotel HOTEL €
(% 928 53 85 98; www.soulsurfer.es; Calle San
clude heated pool, kids club, numerous res-
Pedro 2; dm €15, s/d €45/49; W s ) This funky,
taurants and bars plus a beachside spa.
long-established hotel is a top spot to stay
if you’re here to surf. Rooms are bright and
there are small (three-bed) dorms if you’re
T he North trying to keep costs down. The rooftop ter-
race is an awesome spot to chill, with ham-
La Oliva mocks, couches and beanbags taking up
every nook near the pool. Surf classes and
oHotel Rural Mahoh HOTEL €€
equipment rental are on offer.
(% 928 86 80 50; www.mahoh.com; Sitio de Juan
Bello, Villaverde; s/d €60/80; pW s ) This ex- Apartamentos Juan Benítez APARTMENT €
cellent rural hotel is hard to miss. Set in an (% 629 176348; www.apartamentos-juanbenitez.
early-19th-century stone-and-wood build- com; Calle La Caleta 4; 2-person apt €55; Ws )
ing, it’s surrounded by a stunning cactus These well-equipped apartments are close to
garden and a small farmyard with goats and both the beach and several good bars and res-
a vocal cockerel. There are nine romantic taurants. The spacious apartments are built
bedrooms decorated with antiques, plus the around a pool that is well-sheltered from the
modern conveniences of TV and wi-fi. The wind. All have sea views and satellite TV;
restaurant serves superb Canarian cuisine there is wi-fi in communal areas.
and comes highly recommended. The hotel
is 4km north of La Oliva, just off the FV-101. La Gaviota HOTEL €
(% 928 53 85 67; www.la-gaviota.net; Calle Juan de
Betancourth 14; studios €38, d €60; W ) This laid-
Corralejo back, neo-hippy place, which flies the Jolly
Surfing Colors APARTMENT € Roger, has been lovingly created by a Ger-
(% 670 777189; www.surfingcolors.com; Calle Pejin man couple. Ralf made most of the furniture
2; studio apt €50; Ws ) These small-but-smart and has scavenged ruins for old doors and
apartments in a quiet street several blocks the like. Every apartment is different, in-
back from the water offer great value. The cluding one built into a cave. The views out
emphasis is on surfing and there are packag- to sea are sublime. It sits above the south
es on offer combining several days of tuition end of the old harbour.
22 3
ONLINE RESOURCES
Casas Rurales (www.ecoturismocanarias.com) Has an extensive selection of rural ac-
commodation throughout the islands, but doesn’t cover La Gomera or Lanzarote.
Ecoturismo Gomera (www.casasruralesdelagomera.es) A good network of casas ru-
rales across La Gomera.
Ac c o m m o dati o n FL U
Rural Accommodation (www.alorustico.com) A Spanish-mainland website that in-
cludes some 60 choices for rural accommodation across every island except La Gomera.
Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) There are some spectacularly located properties for rent
across all the islands, ranging from city apartments with sea views to enormous houses
in the mountains.
Península de Jandía Morro Jable
anE Rz TaErVote
Apartamentos Altavista APARTMENT €
(% 928 54 01 64; www.altavistafuerteventura.com;
Costa Calma
Caleta Abubilla 8; 2-person apt €60; W ) Easy to
E N T U RA
H10 Playa Esmeralda HOTEL €€ find (but not so easy to park) opposite the
(% 928 87 53 53; www.h 10.es; Punta del Roquito modern church in the old town; you can’t
2; s/d incl breakfast €90/120; pa W s ) This miss the blue and pink exterior. The apart-
luxurious hotel enjoys prime position above ments are large, have small balconies and
the beach and has extensive facilities, in- are painted a sunny yellow; several have sea
cluding a state-of-the-art health and fitness views. There is also a rooftop solarium with
club, tennis courts, a children’s mini club shaded picnic tables.
and a discotheque with regular live acts.
The rooms are restrained chic and spacious, Sol Jandia Mar APARTMENT €€
decorated in bright yellows and greens. You (% 928 54 13 25; www.solmelia.com; Calle Bentejuí
can walk from here to Playa de Sotavento, 8; 2-person apt €120; paW s ) Part of the sol-
the island’s windsurfing capital. idly reliable Melia hotel chain, this centrally
located hotel has large modern apartments
Risco del Gato HOTEL €€€ furnished with dark-blue fabrics and wood
(% 928 54 71 75; www.vikhotels.com; Calle Sica- fittings. Landscaped gardens surround a
sumbre 2; s/d €85/150; paWs ) Accommo- pool and facilities include children’s enter-
dation is in spacious and luxurious suites, tainment and squash courts.
complete with whirlpool bathrooms, inner
patio and small private garden. Located Apartamentos Palm Garden APARTMENT €€
200m from the white sandy beach of So- (% 928 54 10 00; www.palmgardenfuerteventu-
tavento, additional facilities include a spa ra.com; Avenida Saladar 26; 2-person apt €90;
centre, tennis courts, a fitness centre and p a W s ) This huge complex offers studio
three restaurants. In other words, the works. apartments with small kitchenettes, satellite
TV and terraces. It’s a no-frills place, and
perks like wi-fi come at an extra fee. The
La Pared building isn’t too pretty from the outside,
Waveguru Surfcamp CAMPGROUND € but the vistas of the beach are quite superb
(% 619 804447; www.waveguru.de; Avenida del from the interior. All rooms have sea views.
Istmo 17; camping per week €130) There are pre-
cious few places to camp on Fuerteventura
so this ocean-side campground is a treat. It’s LANZAROTE
really meant for surfers and special packages
are offered to those wanting to take lessons, Although the bulk of Lanzarote’s accommoda-
but nonsurfers are also welcome. There’s a tion is in the main tourist resorts, alternative
shared kitchen, barbecue area and surfing casas rurales options are increasing, particu-
gear is free for guests. In quieter times the larly inland. The capital Arrecife is also home
week-long minimum might be waived. to several sound hotel choices and makes a
good central base for exploring the island.
224
staying in a Mongolian yurt in the Canaries?
A rrecife There are several to choose from, ranging in
Hotel Lancelot HOTEL €€
size and amenities – some even have fitted
(Map p101; % 928 80 50 99; www.hotellancelot. kitchens, BBQ areas and designer furnish-
com; Avenida Mancomunidad 9; sea-facing s/d incl ings. Other options include stone cottages,
breakfast €54/69; aWs ) The large bright wooden huts and a restored water mill.
rooms have a luxurious feel with their king- Owners Michelle and Tila can also provide
Ac c o m m o dati o n L ANZAR
size beds, sexy abstract prints, plush decor fresh eggs from their chickens, organic fruit
and ample balconies with ocean views. and veg and invaluable advice about Lan-
There’s a rooftop pool with adjacent small zarote. The whole place is off the grid, using
gymnasium, plus regular live, smoochy jazz wind turbines and solar panels for power. The
in the bar. Superb value for money. daily rate rises for stays of less than a week.
Hotel Miramar HOTEL €€

Isla Graciosa
(Map p101; % 928 80 15 22; www.hmiramar.com;
Avenida Coll 2; sea-facing s/d incl breakfast €57/75; Playa de el Salado CAMPGROUND €
anzarO
aWs ) Waterfront Miramar has been sub- (% 928 59 29 56; www.reservasparquesnacionales.

jected to an adventurous paint palette in the es; Bahía del Salado) This simple site on the
public spaces, and each floor sports a differ- beach is the only place you’re allowed to
ote
ent colour scheme in the rooms. It’s a friend- camp on Graciosa. There are ablution blocks
TE
ly place with a low-key cafeteria and rotating and spectacular views. It’s free to camp but
art exhibits in the lobby. Breakfast is a high, you need to get advance permission, which
with its ocean views from the roof terrace. you can do online. It’s just southwest of
Caleta de Sebo.
Hotel Diamar HOTEL €€
(Map p101; % 928 07 24 81; www.hoteldiamarlan- Pensión Enriqueta HOSTAL €
zarote.com; Avenida Fred Olsen 8; sea-facing s/d (% 928 84 20 51; www.pensionenriqueta.com; Calle
incl breakfast €54/65; aW ) Privately owned Mar de Barlovento 6; d €18-25) This small pen-
Diamar has a boutique feel and is a welcome sión is situated a block back from the water-
addition to Arrecife’s hotel scene. Overlook- front. The rooms are good value, being simply
ing the beach, the large rooms are painted furnished but clean as a whistle, while down-
in cool colours with terraces overlooking the stairs there’s a lively restaurant and bar.
palm-fringed beach across the way. Rooms Evita Beach APARTMENT €€
are set around a central atrium with tradi- (% 928 84 21 85; www.evitabeach.net; Avenida
tional Canarian balconies. There is wi-fi, a Virgen del Mar 59; 2-person apt €85; W ) Gra-
cafeteria and a good restaurant (mains €12). ciosa’s most upmarket place to stay has
simple apartments decked out mostly in
white but each with its own splash of col-
T he North our. The sumptuous suites (from €160)
have four-poster beds and a North African
Arrieta feel. There’s a communal garden with views
across the strait to Lanzarote.
Apartamentos Arrieta APARTMENT €
(% 928 84 80 08; Calle Garita 8; 2-person apt €40)
You’ll find this blue-balconied apartment La Caleta de Famara
block on the main street, within walking Bungalows Playa Famara BUNGALOW €€
distance of the beach. A modern low-rise (% 928 84 51 32; www.bungalowsplayafamara.
building, it’s a well-maintained place with com; Urbanización Famara; bungalows from €65;
good-sized pine-furnished apartments and a s ) This distinctive complex is located 2km
vast rooftop terrace. You’ll need to brush up north of the main town – you’ll pass it on
on your Spanish. your way into Caleta de Famara. The archi-
tecture comprises a modern step-terraced
Finca de Arrieta HOTEL €€€
arrangement of semicircular holiday homes,
(% 928 82 67 20; www.lanzaroteretreats.com; Ar- and it looks like suburbia. There’s a restau-
rieta; 2-person yurt/cottage from €130; p W s ) rant and surf school here. Bungalows sleep
S This curious, eco-friendly place set back between two and six, and longer stays equal
from the LZ-10 has a wonderfully random good discounts.
array of accommodation options. Fancy
22 5
Wine Country Yaiza

Casa de Hilario CASA RURAL €€
(% 928 83 62 62; www.casadehilario.com; Calle Los
San Bartolomé & Around
Rostros 5; s/d incl breakfast €55/90; aW s ) The
oCaserío de Mozaga HOTEL €€ seven individually decorated rooms at this
(% 928 52 00 60; www.caseriodemozaga.com; exceptional casa rural have an Asian-art
Ac c o m m o dati o n L ANZAR
Calle Mozaga 8; s/d €70/90, restaurant mains influence and handmade furniture. The out-
€14; W ) Northwest of San Bartolomé in the side area includes a pool, a few lofty palms
village of Mozaga, this 18th-century family and some superb views. Breakfast can be en-
home retains its rustic authenticity with a joyed on the shady terrace. The owners also
central courtyard complete with original organise activities, including guided bike
aljibe (water system). The rooms have high treks and boat rides.
ceilings and are graced with family heir-
looms. The restaurant (dinner only) has an Casona de Yaiza HOTEL €€
excellent reputation. (% 928 83 62 62; www.casonadeyaiza.com; Calle
anzarO
El Rincón 11; s/d incl breakfast €55/100; W s )
Based in a 19th-century farmhouse on the
T he South edge of town, with views over the region’s
ote
rolling volcanic hills. The Renaissance art
TE
theme can get a little too much, but it’s a
Puerto del Carmen lovely place to stay, with a small swimming
Pensión Magec PENSIÓN € pool and a decent restaurant.
(% 928 51 51 20; www.pensionmagec.com; Calle
El Hierro 11; s/d €24/28, s/d without bathroom El Golfo & Around
€22/26; W ) There’s just one standard pen-
sión in Puerto del Carmen and it’s a good Hotelito del Golf HOTEL €
one. Housed in a blue-and-white tradition- (% 928 17 32 72; www.hotelitodelgolfo.com; Aveni-

al house, there are sea views from several da Marítima 6; s/d €46/55; W s ) There is just
rooms. Go for No 21 with its private balco- one hotel in El Golfo and it’s this charming,
ny if you don’t mind the shared bathroom. friendly, family-run place. The rooms are
There’s a communal kitchen and a rooftop bright and simply furnished with fridges
terrace for sunset drinks. and private terraces. It’s worth paying extra
for a sea view. There’s a small seawater pool,
Costa Sal APARTMENT €€ plus a sun terrace across from the surf.
(% 928 51 42 42; www.costasal.com; Calle Agonal
16; 1-bedroom apt €70; pWs ) Close to the air-
Playa Blanca
port and only a short walk from the beach,
Costa Sal has one- and two-bedroom apart- Apartamentos Gutiérrez APARTMENT €
ments as well as villas and a few studios. (% 928 51 70 89; Plaza Nuestra Señora del Carmen
With tennis courts, a kids’ playground and a 8; s/d apt €40/50) Just by the town church,
range of swimming pools, it’s a firm favour- and one of the cheapest places to stay in this
ite with families and receives great reviews area. Seven tidy studio apartments are avail-
from travellers. able, most with small balconies and a few
with sea views. Owner Antonia speaks virtu-
Hotel Los Fariones HOTEL €€ ally no English, so brush up on your Spanish
(% 928 51 01 75; www.farioneshotels.com; Calle or sign language.
Roque del Este 1; s/d €92/149; p a i W s ) This
is the grande dame of the hotel scene; it H10 Sentido White Suites APARTMENT €€
was the first hotel to be built here, over 40 (% 928 51 70 37; www.h 10.es; Calle Janubio 1; s/d
years ago. The rooms are comfortable, if a ste €80/135; p a W s ) A huge refurbishment
tad old-fashioned. Facilities include tennis has transformed this once family-oriented
courts, mini golf and a large pool overlook- apartment complex into a super-stylish
ing the ocean. adults-only hotel. The sleek suites come
with flat-screen TVs, Nespresso machines
and modern art adorning the walls. There’s
a gym, spa and a cool chill-out bar serving
cocktails and shisha pipes.
226
Villas Kamezí BUNGALOW €€ Hotel Taburiente HOTEL €€
(% 928 51 86 24; www.heredadkamezi.com; Calle (Map p124; % 922 27 60 00; www.hoteltaburiente.
Mónaco 2; bungalow for up to 8 people from €220; com; Calle Dr José Naveiras 24A; s/d incl breakfast
pais ) A discreet, environmentally €48/78; p a W s ) The public areas have a
friendly complex of 35 stunning villas with fashionable minimalist look – think black
two to four bedrooms, all tastefully dec- glossy pots with a couple of lilies, chunky
orated with real Ideal Home–style decor. glass vases filled with green apples, and
Ac c o m m o dati o n T E
Amenities include a saltwater pool, chil- plenty of soft natural colours. The rooms are
dren’s playground and small supermarket. pleasant but lack the same wow factor; ask
for one with a balcony overlooking Parque
Garcia Sanabría. Room 26, a smart cocktail
TENERIFE bar and nightclub, opens nightly from 8pm.
While finding a room is generally not a Principe de Paz HOTEL €€
problem in Santa Cruz and in the north of (Map p124; % 922 24 99 55; www.hotelprincipepaz.
the island, the same cannot be said for the com; Calle Valentin Sanz 33-35; s/d incl breakfast
southern resorts, particularly around Los
eN
€47/70; aW ) Wonderfully located across

nE
Cristianos and Playa de las Américas; book from the leafy Plaza Principe de Asturias,
e RI
r i Ffe
in advance when possible. this dusky-pink exterior sets the scene for
a marble-clad interior and large pleasant
E
rooms washed in pale cream with light-wood

Santa Cruz de Tenerife furnishings. Note that the bathrooms have
oHotel Adonis Capital HOTEL €
tubs for that restorative post-hiking soak.
(Map p124; % 922 28 46 01; www.adonisresorts.
com; Calle Cruz Verde 24; s/d incl breakfast €47/57;
p aiW ) This central hotel offers excel- T he Northeast
lent value. Rooms have a fairly drab colour
scheme (think brown on brown), but are La Laguna
well equipped, a reasonable size and come
Bed & Breakfast La Laguna B&B €
with large bathrooms. Most have balconies.
(% 824 680066; www.bblalaguna.com; Calle Juan
The top-floor breakfast buffet includes plen-
de Vera 21; s/d incl breakfast €18/38; W ) A cross
ty of hot and cold choices and fresh fruit.
between a B&B and a hostel with a com-
Plus you can enjoy sea views while sipping
munity kitchen and shared bathrooms. The
your cappuccino.
rooms are a delight; brightly painted and
Pensión Casablanca PENSIÓN € cheerful. There’s a pretty patio with citrus
(Map p124; % 922 27 85 99; Calle Viera y Clavijo trees (you can help yourselves) and the own-
15; s/d €15/21) In a great location on a leafy er, Chiara, is utterly charming and can help
pedestrian street, this building dates from you with any queries you may have about
1902. The rooms are brightly painted with exploring the island.
decorative finishes and floral trim. They
Hotel Aguere BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
are small but good value; the only down-
(% 922 31 40 36; www.hotelaguere.es; Calle Car-
side is that there are only three communal
rera 55; s/d incl breakfast €51/67; ai W ) The
bathrooms for 14 rooms, which could mean
highlight of this friendly hotel is the central
crossed legs in the corridor.
glassed-in patio (housing a popular cafe),
Hotel Contemporáneo HOTEL €€ which reeks of 1920s high-class society. Up-
(Map p124; % 902 120329; www.hotelcontempora- stairs are a handful of simple old-fashioned
neo.com; Rambla de Santa Cruz 116; s/d incl break- rooms with wooden floors so highly pol-
fast €53/67; paiWs ) As contemporary as ished you could ice skate on them. The only
the name suggests, this elegant hotel on one real downside is that, as this is a historic
of the city’s swankiest streets is part of the building, the bathrooms are a built-in extra
Spanish Barceló chain. Rooms have mahoga- so quite cramped. There are plans to add an-
ny or grey-stained hardwood floors, a plush, other wing and install an elevator.
yet understated, colour scheme and large
Hotel-Apartamentos Nivaria HOTEL €€
bathrooms with walk-in showers. The only
(% 922 26 42 98; www.hotelnivaria.com; Plaza Ad-
downside is that some readers have com-
elantado 11; s/d incl breakfast €96/120; pai )
plained about noise from adjoining rooms.
The former home of a marquis, the facade is
22 7
washed in burnt sienna and has traditional ments, plus a Thai pagoda surrounded by
wooden balconies. Rooms are exquisitely lush gardens for traditional Thai massage,
done up with elegant furniture, leafy plants and a hammam (Turkish-style steam bath).
and earthy colours. The bathrooms are fash-
ionably mosaic-tiled. Facilities include a spa Hotel Tigaiga HOTEL €€€
and gym. (Map p136; % 922 38 35 00; www.tigaiga.com; Par-

que Taoro 28; r/ste from €150/191; paiWs )
Casa Rural la Asomada Judged on room quality alone, this family-run
del Gato HISTORIC HOTEL €€ hotel, mounted like a castle on a hill, is a tad
(% 922 26 39 37; www.laasomadadelgato.es; Calle pricey. However, as well as a pleasant, if not
Anchieta 45; d/tr incl breakfast €75/85; W ) Sit- extraordinary, room you get superb service,
ting behind the excellent restaurant of the beautiful gardens, an inviting pool and plenty
same name and surrounded by lush sub- of sporting and relaxation facilities. The suites
tropical plants, the four rooms at this casa were renovated in 2014 and are bright and
rural (village or farmstead accommodation) airy with contemporary furnishings.
are colourful and comfortable; on the down-
eN
side some guests have (seriously!) com- La Orotava
nE
plained about the noisy cockerel next door.
e RI
r i Ffe
oHotel Alhambra BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
(Map p142; % 922 32 04 34; www.alhambra-oro-
E
T he North tava.com; Calle Nicandro González Borges 19; s/d/
ste incl breakfast €85/114/143; aWs ) A simply
gorgeous 18th-century manor house filled
Puerto De La Cruz with period furnishings and wonderful art-
oHotel Sun Holidays HOTEL € work, including a breathtaking 200m-long
(Map p136; %922 38 00 87; www.hotelsunholidays. ceiling fresco. There are only five rooms and
com; Calle La Peñita 6; s/d €25/50; aW) Despite all are huge and well furnished in a mix of
the mildly disquieting name, this hotel is not modern and old. The Andalucian-tiled bath-
a tour-company resort, but a small modern rooms come with tubs and separate showers.
hotel in the attractive La Ranilla barrio (dis- There’s a small pool and attractive gardens.
trict). Rooms are plain with ugly marble-chip
Hotel Victoria BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
flooring but are superbly equipped with
(Map p142; % 922 33 16 83; www.hotelruralvictoria.
desks, wardrobes, plenty of plugs and good
com; Calle Hermano Apolinar 8; s/d incl breakfast
lighting. There are small tubs, as well as
€73/90; a i W ) This is a seductive little
showers, plus most rooms have a balcony.
number: a 17th-century mansion restored as
The rooftop terrace has fabulous views
an exquisite boutique hotel. The rooms are
and plenty of lounge chairs for kickback time.
set around a central patio and have plenty of
Hotel Monopol HISTORIC HOTEL €€ designer detail with textured cream wallpa-
(Map p136; % 922 38 46 11; www.monopoltf.com; per, modular light fittings and dark wooden
Calle Quintana 15; s/d incl breakfast €50/80; furnishings. There’s an excellent restaurant
a iWs ) This old dame of a hotel, built in and a rooftop sun terrace.
1742, has a covered courtyard so filled with
lush green foliage it’s like being lost in the Garachico
Amazon. The service is low-key but efficient,
and extras include a heated pool, a sauna oHotel La Quinta Roja BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
and three sun-bronzing terraces. (% 922 13 33 77; www.quintaroja.com; Glorieta de

Original wooden balconies provide plenty San Francisco; s/d incl breakfast €88/122; ai W )
of charm, while the rooms are small but well This restored 16th-century manor house
equipped, if starting to look just a shade worn. with its earthy-toned walls is wonderfully
central and a lovely spot in which to while
Hotel Botánico HISTORIC HOTEL €€€ away a few peaceful days. The rooms are
(% 922 38 14 00; www.hotelbotanico.com; Avenida centred around a gracious patio complete
Richard J Yeoward 1; s/d incl breakfast €180/265; with fountain and wooden galleries. Rooms
p aWs ) One of the most exclusive hotels have cherry-coloured wooden floors, mut-
in these parts with beautiful gardens and a ed decor and Med-blue mosaic-tiled bath-
great pool area. The Botánico’s oriental spa rooms. There is also a good gift shop.
centre offers wellness therapies and treat-
228
Gara Hotel Rural BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
(% 922 83 11 68; www.garahotel.com; Calle Este- T he Northwest
ban de Ponte 7; r incl breakfast €120; a i W ) A
charming hotel with rooms set around a
central courtyard. They vary in size but are Santiago del Teide
well equipped with kettles and fridges, plus Hotel La Casona del Patio HOTEL €€
large walk-in showers. There are two guest (% 922 83 92 93; www.lacasonadelpatio.com;
terraces with seamless sea views and a small Avenida La Iglesia 72; r incl breakfast €100;
spa with Jacuzzi and sauna. p a W ) A handsome stone building houses
this comfortable hotel with spacious rooms
Hotel Rural El Patio HOTEL €€ coloured in bright yellows and blues with
(% 922 13 32 80; www.hotelpatio.com; Finca warm terracotta tiles and lashings of white
Malpaís 11; r from €96; paiW s ) East of linen. Ideally located for hiking and biking
Garachico, in El Guincho, is this tranquil, trails, horse riding can also be arranged,
white-walled place tucked among plantains plus there’s an excellent restaurant, a spa
on a farm. The comfortable and colourful and a small gym.
eN
rooms are spread throughout three low-rise

nE
buildings set around a stone patio. Sitting

e RI
Los Gigantes & Puerto De

r i Ffe
out on the patio with a sunset drink listen-

ing to classical music is simply perfect. For Santiago
E
the more energetic, the facilities include a Hotel Rural El Navio HOTEL €€
tennis court and croquet lawn. (% 922 86 56 80; www.elnavio.es; Prolongación
It’s a little tricky to find so either call ahead Avenida Los Pescadores, Finca El Navío, Alcalá; s/d incl
for directions or download a map off its web- breakfast €70/135; pWs ) Halfway between
site. There’s a minimum stay of three nights. Los Gigantes and the little town of Alcalá and
ferreted away on a banana farm, this peaceful
rural hotel, with old-fashioned rooms and a
T he Centre courtyard virtually enveloped in bougainvil-
lea, offers nothing but peace, quiet and total
Parque Nacional Del Teide tranquillity. The owners also prepare delicious
home-cooked meals. Note that in high season
Parador Nacional PARADOR €€€
there is a minimum two-night stay.
(%922 37 48 41; www.parador.es; d incl breakfast
€145; paWs) Located in the heart of Parque
Nacional Del Teide, this parador was de-
signed with little empathy for the surround-
T he South
ing landscape, but once inside, the rooms are
attractively rustic in style, with earthy col- Los Cristianos, Playa De Las
ours, tasteful original landscapes and king- Américas & Costa Adeje
size beds. Avoid the adjacent cafeteria for Hotel Andrea’s HOTEL €
anything more than a drink on the terrace; (Map p156; % 922 79 00 12; www.hotel-andreas.
the food is overpriced and pedestrian. Note com; Calle Valle Menéndez 6, Los Cristianos; s/d
that you pay slightly more for a Teide view. €42/55; i W ) A small but neat hotel with
large, if rather bleakly furnished, rooms
Vilaflor and small glassed-in terraces (the cheapest
Hotel El Sombrerito HOTEL €
singles don’t have terraces). There’s a com-
(% 922 70 90 52; Calle Santa Catalina 15; s/d incl fy communal sitting room with TV and soft
breakfast €35/40) There is real value to be drinks, plus a popular pizzeria downstairs.
found here, especially if you bag one of the Hotel Reveron Plaza HOTEL €
rooms with a terrace. Shiny tiles, canary- (Map p156; %922 75 71 20; www.hotelesreveron.com;
yellow walls and tidy (albeit small) bath- Avenida Los Playeros 26, Los Cristianos; s/d €45/62;
rooms are all part of the package, while the paWs) This is the oldest hotel in Los Cris-
downstairs bar and restaurant is a favourite tianos, dating back to 1949 when it was a
with locals and rates high in atmosphere and simple hostel. Still family run, the rooms are
home-cooked-style cuisine. traditionally furnished and comfortable with
fridges and balconies. The rooftop pool is a
definite plus; there is also a small spa.
229
BITING THE PACKAGE BULLET

Playa de las Américas is one of those rare hotel jungles where you may have to swallow
hard and check out one of the high-profile tour operators, which often have amazing
deals. Some of the most reputable agencies are Thomas Cook (www.thomascook.com),
Thompson (www.thomson.co.uk), First Choice (www.firstchoice.co.uk) and Cosmos
(www.cosmos.co.uk). If you decide to stake out your own accommodation and are planning
Ac c o m m o dati o n T
on spending a few nights here, try apartment agencies first. A pleasant apartment for
two, with a kitchen, a TV and a living area, starts at around €300 a week (generally the
minimum booking period). Contact the tourist office for a full listing of agencies, or start
with Anyka Sur (Map p154; % 922 79 13 77; www.anykasur.com; Edificio Azahara, Avenida
Habana, Los Cristianos; h 9.30am-1.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri) or Marcus Management (Map
p154; % 922 75 10 64; www.tenerife-apts.com; Apartamentos Portosin, Avenida Penetracíon, Los
Cristianos; h 9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri).
LaE NGEome
Baobab Suites DESIGN HOTEL €€€ 16th-century house, this family-run hotel and
RI F Er a
(Map p158; % 822 07 00 30; www.baobabsuites. restaurant is full of period charm and creaky
com; Calle Roques del Salmor 5, Costa Adeje; ste old furniture. There’s a charming white-
€250; paWs ) These elegant minimalist washed central courtyard complete with well.
suites range from studios to four-bedroom The attached restaurant (mains €10 to €15) is
penthouses with spacious living areas and one of the town’s better places to eat.
state-of-the-art kitchens. Other perks include
vast terraces with sea views, private swim-
El Médano
ming pools and Jacuzzis; some suites even
have small private beaches. Ideal for families Hostel Carel HOTEL €
with its access to a kids’ club, plus there’s a (% 922 17 68 98; Avenida Príncipe de España 22;
sports club for those post-toddler teens. s/d from €35/45; W ) There’s great value to be
found at this clean, friendly and well-run
Villa Cortés HOTEL €€€ budget hotel. The rooms are large and shiny
(Map p154; % 922 75 77 00; www.europe-hotels. and come with balconies, some of which
org; Avenida Rafael Puig Lluvina, Playa de las have distant sea views. Most have refrigera-
Américas; s/d/ste incl breakfast €195/250/455; tors – but none have hair dryers! Breakfast is
p aiWs ) Designed in the style of an €5 extra. It’s located on the northern fringe
ultra-luxurious Mexican hacienda, this is of town.
truly sumptuous, with an exciting and dy-
namic colour scheme and decor. There are Senderos de Abono HOTEL €€
lots of hot yellows, oranges and blues, plus (%922 77 02 00; Calle Peatonal de la Iglesia 5, Gra-
murals, exquisite original artwork and the nadilla de Abona; s/d incl breakfast €50/65; aWs)
occasional quirky touch – like the family of This rural hotel and restaurant is just across
giant ceramic frogs just off the lobby and the from the lovely stone church in Granadilla de
mini Aztec temple outside. Abona, a genuine working town. A converted
The gardens have streams with goldfish post office, its rooms are in a series of old stone
and a pool with cascading waterfall; the buildings with tiny courtyards, foliage-filled
rooms are predictably stunning. Naturally gardens and bucketfuls of charm. The in-
enough, there is also a luxurious spa. house restaurant offers really superb home-
cooked, local cuisine (mains €10).
T he East
LA GOMERA
Güímar & Around The island has, so far, kept grand-scale tour-
ism at bay, and most lodging is in small rural
Hotel Rural Casona
hotels, family-run pensiones, refurbished
Santo Domingo HOTEL €€
farmhouses and apartments. By far the
(% 922 51 02 29; www.casonasantodomingo.es;
most appealing and authentically Gomeran
Calle Santo Domingo 32, Güímar; s/d incl breakfast
places to stay are the casas rurales (village
€60/80; pW ) On the edge of Güímar’s at-
or farmstead accommodation), many of
tractive old quarter and inside a restored
2 30
which were abandoned by emigrants and
have since been refurbished for tourists. For T he North
information and to book, contact Eco Turis-
mo La Gomera (% 922 14 41 01; www.casasru-
ralesdelagomera.es; Avenida Pedro García Cabrera
Hermigua
9, Vallehermoso). oApartamentos Los Telares APARTMENT €
(% 922 88 07 81; www.apartamentosgomera.
Ac c o m m o dati o n L A
com; El Convento, Carretera General; apt €50-

San Sebastián de la 59; p W s ) Sitting on either side of the
Gomera main highway coming into Hermigua are
these superbly equipped and furnished
oApartamentos Quintero APARTMENT € apartments with stone floors, colourful
(% 922 14 17 44; www.apartamentosquintero.com; rustic-style furnishings and windows over-
Plaza de las Amerícas 6; d €50; pa W ) These looking the banana groves. The bathrooms
modern apartments are extremely central. are on the small side. There’s a choice of
The living rooms are large and cheerily dec- studios or larger suites, and over the street
a GO
orated, and have balconies and sea views, is a small pool and solarium (complete with
and the kitchens are well equipped. Justi- hammocks) for guests’ use.
ome
M E RA
fiably popular with walkers, the friendly

management can advise on bus times and Ibo Alfaro HOTEL €€
ra
maps. The one downside is that wi-fi is only (% 922 88 01 68; www.hotel-gomera.com; s/d
available in the downstairs lobby. €52/82; W ) Popular with honeymooning
couples, the 20 romantic rooms here have
Pensión Victor PENSIÓN € gorgeous mountain views and an aroma of
(% 607 517565; Calle del Medio 23; s/d without wood polish coming from the floors, ceilings
bathroom €25/30) Now owned by a young Cu- and elegant furniture. The breakfast spread
ban couple (try a mojito in the downstairs might be the best on the island and the sur-
bar!), this place in a creaky old townhouse rounding gardens are a delight. To get here,
has bundles of character. A couple of rooms follow the signs up the unnamed rural road
overlook the bustling street, others span a from beside Hermigua Rent-a-Car.
wooden balcony, sharing a narrow terrace.
Rooms are plain but equipped with tables Casa Los Hererra BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
and TV. Note that bathrooms are shared. (% 922 88 07 01; www.casalosherrera.com; Plaza
Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación; d incl breakfast
Hotel Torre del Conde HOTEL €€ €90; p W s ) This delightful canary-yellow
(% 922 87 00 00; www.hoteltorredelconde.com; hotel next to the Iglesia de la Encarnación
Calle Ruiz de Padrón 19; s/d €55/69; W ) If you has a sophisticated feel that can seem a
can look beyond the stark modern exterior, rarity in rural-vibe La Gomera. Rooms are
the rooms here are solid midrange quality; traditionally furnished with colourful fab-
some with views of the Torre del Conde and rics. A highlight, literally, is the pool, which
surrounding pretty gardens. The hotel has is in a lofty position behind the hotel with
recently expanded and now offers a sauna soul-stirring views of the church and valley
and Jacuzzi, as well as a solarium for catch- beyond.
ing the rays.
oParador Nacional Conde Vallehermoso

de la Gomera PARADOR €€€ Hotel Añaterve HOTEL €
(% 922 87 11 00; www.parador.es; Calle Lomo de (% 922 80 03 30; www.anaterve.com; Calle La Ro-
la Horca; r €195; paiWs ) Built to look dadera; d incl breakfast €56, apt €69; aW ) This
like an old Canarian mansion, the Para- building overlooking Vallehermoso and the
dor is arguably the island’s top hotel. The valley has an interesting history; it was a bo-
rooms are simply but elegantly furnished, dega in the 1900s (the original wine press
with four-poster beds, rich wooden floors is still here), as well as the station for the
and marble bathrooms. Most rooms look local Guardia Civil. Today this small Dutch-
out onto the gorgeous gardens, which have owned hotel has a welcoming informality
many examples of Canarian plants and a with just four rooms and an apartment.
small pool area overlooking the ocean. Breakfast is vegetarian; it’s a popular spot
The reception staff are also worthy of for yoga retreats.
praise and are a credit to the Parador chain.
2 31
Hotel Rural Tamahuche HOTEL €€ side the tourist bustle of Valle Gran Rey, the
(% 922 80 11 76; www.hoteltamahuche.com; Calle finca (rural estate) is a tranquil ocean-side
Hoya 20; s/d incl breakfast €56/83; p i W ) Just centre focused on communal, alternative
outside Vallehermoso, there’s superb value and ecofriendly living. For lodging, guests
to be found at this little B&B-style hotel. can choose options from comfortable beach
Built right into the hillside, it climbs in a se- shacks to luxurious apartments with a pri-
ries of staircases and terraces, so don’t plan vate swimming pool.
to bring much luggage. Rooms, with dark It’s a blissfully chilled out place in which to
wooden floorboards and a wood-beam ceil- loll about in hammocks, slip in and out of the
ing, are decorated in a Canary colonial style. swimming pool or laze about on the pebble
To find the hotel follow the signs towards beach fronting the property. Most staff live on
Valle Gran Rey and it will be perched atop a the premises, offering near-daily meditation,
hill to your right. yoga, massage and other therapies and activ-
ities. The reception is staffed only between
11am and 2pm Wednesday to Monday.
T he South
a G
Apartamentos Baja del Secreto APARTMENT €€
PaOlm
(% 922 80 57 09; www.bajadelsecreto.es; Avenida
Playa Santiago Marítima, Charco del Conde; apt €65-95; pW s )
M EaRA
oApartamentos Tapahuga APARTMENT € Location, location, location: this place, in
(% 922 89 51 59; www.tapahuga.es; Avenida Maríti- front of the Charco del Conde (a natural sea-
ma; 2-person apt €50-75; Ws ) Opposite the water pool), has the location totally sorted.
harbour, these spacious, light-flooded apart- The rooms, which are clean and comforta-
ments boast beautiful wooden balconies and ble, have less impact than the views but the
marble floors, well-equipped kitchens, and a lush subtropical grounds are a real delight.
rooftop sun terrace and pool. Make sure you Playa Calera APARTMENT €€
get an exterior apartment, as a few open onto (% 922 80 57 79; www.hotelplayacalera.com; Calle
a cheerless and dark interior patio. All up, it Punta Calera 2, La Playa; r incl breakfast €120;
offers exceptional value for money. Note that p a i W s ) This large four-star hotel front-
there is a three-night minimum stay. ing the sea has apartments that are more like
Pensión La Gaviota HOTEL € what you’d expect to find in a swanky New
(% 922 89 51 35; Avenida Marítima 35; r €27) Locat- York suburb than a boho-chic beach town in
ed above a busy local bar, the rooms are small the Spanish sun. The open-plan rooms have
and simple and could do with a lick of paint, beds as big as a small village, plus lounges
but some have wonderful views over a spar- and small kitchenettes. The inviting infinity
kling ocean and the bathrooms are a notch up pool appears to flow seamlessly into the sea.
in quality with marine-blue tile work. No TV. The breakfast buffet is excellent; freshly
squeezed orange juice no less!
oHotel Jardín Tecina HOTEL €€
(% 902 22 21 40; www.jardin-tecina.com; Playa
Santiago; s/d incl breakfast €97/150; paiWs ) LA PALMA
Sprawled along a cliff above town (a lift goes
Live like a local in the casas rurales for rent
down to the beach), this is about the closest
across the island. For information and res-
thing La Gomera has to a proper resort com-
ervations, contact the Casa Turismo Rural
plex. The bungalow-like accommodation is
Isla Bonita (% 922 43 06 25; www.islabonita.es;
scattered throughout a green, well-kept land-
Calle O’Daly 39, Santa Cruz de La Palma), which
scape that’s so vast they even manage to con-
rents close to 70 rural houses across the is-
duct nature walks in the gardens! All rooms
land.
have balconies and many have ocean views.
Valle Gran Rey Santa Cruz de la Palma

oFinca Argayall HOTEL €€ Santa Cruz has some delightful places to
(% 922 69 70 08; www.en.argayall.com; Valle stay in the historic centre and makes a good
Gran Rey waterfront; s/d from €85/125, without base for exploring the island.
bathroom €64/100; ps ) This is no ordinary
hotel. A rural estate a 15-minute stroll out-
2 32
oLa Fuente APARTMENT € decoration and great views, but what real-
(% 922 41 56 36; www.la-fuente.com; Calle Anselmo ly makes this place special are the verdant
Pérez de Brito 49; apt €42-69; W ) German owned, gardens with strategically placed hammocks
the 11 apartments are all different and priced and a fantastic lagoon-style saltwater pool.
at three levels. The most expensive have large There is also a handy minimarket on-site.
rooms, plus balconies and amazing sea and
town views. Room 10 is like a large studio Breña Alta
(indeed it was once a dance studio) and has Parador Nacional PARADOR €€
bundles of atmosphere, but all the apart- (% 922 43 58 28; www.parador.es; Carretera de
ments are well kitted out and decorated with Zumacal, Breña Baja; r from €98; paW s ) This
an aesthetic eye for detail. The reception is parador looks like a huge Canary farmhouse
closed over lunch and all day Sunday. overlooking the ocean. There is a pretty pool
Pensión la Cubana PENSIÓN €
surrounded by grass and a lovely botanical
(% 922 41 13 54; www.la-fuente.com; Calle O’Daly garden. Rooms are spacious and sun-filled,
24; s/d/tr without bathroom €26/32/39; W ) Pen- with a sitting area and panoramic views.
The breakfast buffet is superb.
a PA
sión la Cubana is the island’s only and oldest

Pa Llm
pensión. The quaint whitewashed rooms

are all wobbly floorboards and creaky doors,
MA
T he South
a
but none of them have private bathrooms.

There’s a kitchen for guest use, free tea and
coffee, and a wonderful large communal Fuencaliente
lounge with comfy sofas, books to read and
Apartamentos & Pensión Los
a small balcony overlooking the pedestrian
Volcanes HOTEL €
street.
(% 922 44 41 64; Carretera General 86; d/apt
Apart-Hotel Castillete APARTMENT € €30/32; pW ) A homey place with tasteful
(% 922 42 08 40; www.hotelcastillete.com; Avenida decor and some rooms with a small balcony.
Maritima 75; 2-person apt €42; Ws ) These spa- Apartments are studio-style, with a kitch-
cious studio-style apartments have mildly enette, sitting area and bed all in the same
dated decor but are well situated and have room. It’s an ideal base for hikers as the own-
balconies from where, on a clear day, you er is a keen walker with lots of route infor-
may just spot Teide on Tenerife. There is a mation. There is a communal kitchen, plus a
cafeteria downstairs that serves a reasona- comfortable sitting room for guests’ use.
ble breakfast for around €3.50, as well as a
Hotel La Palma Teneguía
rooftop pool with mountain views.
Princess & Spa HOTEL €€€
oHotel San Telmo BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ (% 922 42 55 00; www.hotellapalmaprincess.com;
(% 922 41 53 85; www.hotel-santelmo.com; Calle Carretera La Costa Cerca Vieja 10; r from €100;
San Telmo 5; s/d from €65/75; W ) This wonder- paiWs ) Technically two hotels (La Pal-
ful, German-owned, boutique hotel has just ma Princess and Teneguía Princess), this
eight rooms: two are located in the original sprawling, self-contained resort complex
building with beamed ceilings, wooden shut- near the waterfront (8km south of Los Canar-
ters and balconies overlooking the delightful ios) is the most ambitious hotel on the island.
flower-filled terrace. The other rooms are With 625 rooms, several pools and marvel-
more contemporarily decorated in tasteful lous ocean views, the overall effect is pleas-
muted earth colours; some have sea views. ing, but it’s situated miles from anywhere.
There is also a spa. Pack some confetti – this
hotel is popular as a wedding venue!
A round Santa Cruz
Los Cancajos T he Centre
Hacienda San Jorge APARTMENT €€
(% 922 18 10 66; www.hsanjorge.com; Playa de
El Paso
Los Cancajos 22; apt from €75; pi W s ) The La Casa Encantada HOSTEL €
Canary-styled Hacienda offers large and (% 661 924972; lacasaencantada.lapalma@gmail.
well-thought-out apartments with separate com; Calle Salvador Miralles; r per person €15, d
bedrooms, open-plan kitchens, uninspiring €35; W ) Opened in 2015, this is a work in pro-
233
gress; a wonderful high-ceilinged, light-filled of self-catering accommodation up on this
building with just four rooms, including one northern coast, but these apartments, with
double en suite. The communal sitting room views over the wild and woolly waves and
is a comfortable clutter, while the rooms are the Piscinas de la Fajana, have a real away-
large with up to three beds in each. There is from-the-world feel and are conveniently lo-
also a kitchen for guests’ use. cated above a good seafood restaurant.
oHotel La Palma Romántica HOTEL €€
Ac c o m m o dati o n E Ll H Ii E
Los Llanos de Aridane
(% 922 18 62 21; www.hotellapalmaromantica.com;
Hotel Valle Aridane HOTEL €
Las Llanadas; r incl breakfast €80; pW s ) The
(% 922 46 26 00; www.hotelvallearidane.com; Glo- only three-star hotel this side of Santa Cruz,
rieta Castillo Olivares 3; r incl breakfast €50; W ) A this excellent-value rural hotel has 40 spa-
comfortable modern hotel, but avoid rooms cious and elegant rooms, with high ceilings,
facing the main road as they can be noisy. terraces, lounge chairs and a sitting area. If
The breakfast spread is excellent and the it’s sunny (rare up here), take a dip in the
owners are extremely helpful, and can ad- outdoor pool and if it’s grey, slip into the
vise on walking routes, bus timetables and heated indoor pool. There’s a classy restau-
transport info in the area. They will even rant (mains €8 to €12), sweeping views of
e RR
provide a packed lunch if necessary. Wi-fi the valley and great service. There is also a
rrO
available in reception only. small spa and gym.
o
Puerto Naos
oApartamentos Playa Delphin APARTMENT € EL HIERRO
(% 922 40 81 94; www.playadelphin.com; Avenida The most appealing places to stay are the ca-
José Guzmán Pérez; 2-/3-person apt €63/68; pW ) sas rurales; contact Meridiano Cero (% 922
This apartment complex is in an imposing 55 18 24; www.ecoturismocanarias.com; Calle Bar-
semicircular building near the beach; close lovento 89, El Mocanal) for reservations.
enough to ensure that you’re lulled to sleep
by the crack and whip of Atlantic waves. Bal-
conies have sunloungers, and rooms come Valverde
with the little extras such as toasters and Boomerang HOTEL €
fruit bowls. It’s family run and friendly. (% 922 55 02 00; www.hotel-boomerang.com; Doc-
Apartamentos Martín APARTMENT € tor Gost 1; d €60; a W ) A convenient central
(% 922 40 80 46; Calle Juana Tabares 1; 2-person hotel with good-sized rooms if a little too
apt €35; W ) Simple apartments with small beige on beige (as in colour scheme). A cou-
kitchenettes in a sea-blue block. It’s Spanish ple of rooms have balconies with distant sea
run and very friendly, but the partition walls views, and all rooms have tubs, as well as
are thin indeed. showers. Can be chilly in the winter months.
Sol La Palma HOTEL €€

(% 922 40 80 00; www.solmelia.com; Punta del T he North
Pozo, Playa de Puerto Naos; d from €75, apt from
€80; paWs ) If you don’t want to self-cater,
oHotel Villa El Mocanal BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
(% 922 55 03 73; www.villaelmocanal.com; Calle
this package-tourism-style hotel is your only
Barlovento 18, El Mocanal; s/d incl breakfast from
bet. With a sprawling, kiddie-filled pool over-
€62/86; p a i W s ) On the main highway
looking the Atlantic, beige I-could-be-any-
where-in-the-world rooms and an all-you- through El Mocanal, this is the island’s first
can-eat buffet, it’s your standard resort hotel boutique hotel and although it is starting
but, that said, it is supremely comfortable. to look just a shade tired, it is still an excel-
lent place to stay with earthy-toned decor,
hardwood furniture, stone construction and
T he North fabulous views. It’s also one of the few places
on the island that has a permanently staffed
Barlovento reception. Note that breakfast is taken at the
restaurant across the road.
Apartamentos La Fajana APARTMENT €
(% 922 18 61 62; Calle de la Fajana; 2-3-person apt
€36-40; p ) There’s not a massive amount
234
oParador Nacional PARADOR €€€ well kept, they have tiled roofs, stone detail-
(% 922 55 80 36; www.parador.es; Las Playas; d ing and tasteful decor. There is also a small
incl breakfast €150; paWs ) Sitting on the summer-only swimming pool. The reception
edge of a rocky beach, this is the island’s top is normally unstaffed.
hotel and rooms are lovely, with hardwood
floors, cool blue decor and balconies (ask oHotel Puntagrande BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
for one with a view over the electric-blue (% 922 55 90 81; www.hotelpuntagrande.org; Las
Puntas; s/d incl breakfast €75/84; paW ) Las
Ac c o m m o dati o n E Ll H Ii E
ocean), though the best thing they offer is

the lullaby of the crashing waves. Frequent Puntas’ most famous lodging is something
special offers mean you often pay only €80 of a tourist attraction and was once listed in
for a room. Note that the restaurant is excel- the Guinness World Records book as being
lent and specialises in local El Hierro dishes the smallest hotel in the world. An old stone
(mains €12 to €20). port building, it’s perched on a spectacular
rock outcrop that makes staying here feel
like you’re sleeping on a tiny rock in the
middle of a vast ocean.
T he South Despite the comfortable rooms it would
be hard to imagine that you’d get much
e RR
La Restinga sleep here if a big storm were raging all

rrO
around you. Add to this location a lively

o
To be honest, this isn’t the island’s most

charming area to stay, but divers are prac- common room filled with the flotsam and
tically obliged to, since there’s an 800m to jetsam of shipwrecks, and you get a truly
1000m altitude difference between sea-level memorable place to stay. The reception is
La Restinga and the towns up the highway – normally unstaffed.
it’s necessary to remain near sea level for at
least 12 hours after a dive. La Frontera
Apartamentos Bahía APARTMENT € oEl Sitio B&B €
(% 617 614619; www.apartamentosbahia.info; (%922 55 98 43; www.elsitio-elhierro.es; Calle La
Avenida Marítima 12; 2-person apt €44; p a ) Carrera 26; r €41-56; W) Close your eyes and say
These spic-and-span two-bedroom apart- ommm. Tucked away above the Frontera vil-
ments are ideal for families. The open-plan lage centre, surrounded by bucolic country-
kitchen and living area looks out over the side, this is a unique retreat, accommodation
blue waters of the port. The pine furnishings and activity centre in one. The whitewashed
are nothing fancy, but with a view like this, rooms are in a cluster of renovated stone
who needs more decoration? Opt for the top farm buildings and have a soothing rustic
floor, if possible. look. Note that there is no TV.
Various activities such as yoga, massage,
Apartamentos La Restinga APARTMENT €
hiking or bike excursions are available to
(www.apartamentoslarestinga.es; Los Saltos 16; guests and nonguests alike. The reception is
2-person apt €33; p ) These well-equipped staffed from 11am to 1pm only from Monday
apartments are astonishingly reasonable, as to Saturday.
well as being located just 100m from the sea.
OK, the decor isn’t going to win any interior Hotel Balneario Pozo de La Salud HOTEL €€
design awards, but the apartments are spot- (% 922 55 95 61; hotelbalneariopozodelasalud@
less, and you can even bring along your pet. gmail.com; Pozo de la Salud; d incl breakfast €70;
p W s ) This modern spa hotel is located
next to the famous Pozo de La Salud, which
El Golfo has been recognised for its healing proper-
ties since the mid 19th-century when the
water was even exported (mainly to New
Las Puntas York and Cuba). Rooms are set around a
Bungalows Los Roques leafy central courtyard; request a sea view.
de Salmor APARTMENT € There is a long list of treatments avail-
(% 922 55 90 16; Carretera Las Puntas; r up to 4 able ranging from thermal baths (in your
people €55-67; paWs ) This series of small, room) to reflexology, shiatsu and volcanic
white-walled bungalows on your left as you hot stones treatment. The Hotel Balneario is
enter town is an excellent option. Extremely famed as being Spain’s westernmost hotel.
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
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What are some of the main attractions and places to visit in Tenerife?

What are some of the main attractions and places to visit in Tenerife?

What is the climate like in Tenerife?

What is the climate like in Tenerife?

PD

Includes  Why Go?

Te n e ri fe ﻿G etting T h e r e & Away

D Playa de las # Adeje TF-1

Costa Adeje \ # Playa de las

Te n e ri fe S anta C r u z de T ene r ife

1 Sights oIglesia de Nuestra Señora

Santa Cruz de Tenerife e 0

Museo de la Ciencia 24 Plaza 9 #

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Te n e ri fe S anta C r u z de T ene r ife

12-hectare botanical garden has the most

THREE PERFECT DAYS IN TENERIFE

Te n e ri fe S anta C r u z de T ene r ife

(% 922 24 46 17; www.lahierbita.es; Calle Clavel Plaza 18 CONTEMPORARY CANARIAN €€

Te n e ri fe S anta C r u z de T ene r ife

LA LAGUNA’S CANARIAN MANSIONS

oMuseo de la Historia de Tenerife MUSEUM of the islands’ premier 18th-century artists,

gious processions, traditional music and an

S Organic, locally sourced produce and a

oMercado de San Pablo MARKET €€

There’s little to see in the small town into a tight area.

of Taganana, but it’s only a few more kilo-

of Almáciga, 1.25km eastwards.

central courtyard becomes a tasteful venue History

eign residents here, hence the proliferation (Archaeological Museum; www.museosdetenerife.

7777777777777 Verde 24 mingo 77

jo Av Familia Bet a Playa

7777777777777 C Nieves Ravelo

Iglesia de San Francisco CHURCH ú Eating

Torreon de Ventoso TOWER ý Entertainment

Mirador de la Paz SQUARE

(Carreterade Taoro) This square with great

GETTING ACTIVE ON TENERIFE

that obviously (being organic) change de-

patch that week. Expect unusual combina- (www.dinamicopuertodelacruz.com; Plaza Char-

been around since the ’50s in one form or

lanco (almond-based) sauce. End on a sweet

note with the vanilla-and-mango pannacotta.

this flash restaurant has the looks and the

tastes down to a fine art. What sort of things Azucar CLUB

TENERIFE FOR CHILDREN

La Orotava a demonstration taking place. There is also

HIKING WITH GOBLINS

Offices (Visitors Centre; % 922 92 23 71; www. (adult/child €4/2.50; h 9.30am-6.30pm; p)

claim is a little optimistic and it would be

is fascinating: of the many different types of

These include rough badlands (deeply erod-

lava (rock that looks like twisted taffy) and

CLIMBING TO THE SUMMIT – THE PAPERWORK

THE DAY EL TEIDE SWALLOWED THE SUN

tered with fantastic hiking trails, which are

pull over and take the shot to impress the folks

back home. To see anything else, you have to

vide information on the many fine walking

Te n e ri fe G etting T h e r e & Away