Face Powder

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FACE POWDER

Face Powder

A face powder is basically a


cosmetic product which its function
is the complement skin color.
Ideal Properties of face powder
▪ Should produce a smooth finish to the facial skin

▪ should enhance the appearance of the skin by


masking the shine due to secretion of sebaceous and
sweat glands.

▪ Must produce a lasting effect, so that frequent


application is unnecessary.
Ideal Properties of face powder
▪ Should make face pleasant to look and touch.

▪ Must adhere to skin.

▪ Degree of opacity can vary from opaque (clown


make-up) to almost transparent.

▪ Since there is no one ingredient that possesses all


the properties desired in a face powder, a blend of
constituents is employed.
Ideal Properties of face powder
 Covering power : Materials of high
refractive index and relatively small
particle size are referred in the
preparation of face powders.

 Playtime: is the amount of time that the


make up can be moved on the face prior
to sitting.
Ideal Properties of face powder
Slip: the quality of easy spreading and
application of powder.

Absorbency: Eliminate shiny skin in certain


facial areas by absorbing sebaceous
secretion and perspiration.
Bloom: Ability to impart a velvety peach like
finish to the skin.
Coloring
▪ Perfuming
Ideal Functions
▪ There are different reasons for including face
powders in one’s makeup routine.
▪ The type and brand of powder will depend on
the desired cosmetic effect.
▪ Some face powders are formulated to address
different conditions.
o Shine control
o UV light protection
o Improve skin tone
o Cover up imperfections
o Improve skin condition
Classification of face powder
Based on the nature of skin
• Dry
• Normal or Moderately Oily
• Very Oily

Based on the texture


• Loose face powder
• Compact face powder
• Translucent powder
• Tinted powder
Classification based on the nature of skin
Type of Skin Type of Characteristics
Powder

Dry Light • Slight Covering Power


• Contain large quantity of talc

Normal or Medium • Comparatively higher covering


Moderately Oily power
• Lesser talc and balanced by
zinc oxide
Very Oily Heavy • High Covering Power
• Lower quantity of talc and
High quantity of zinc oxide.
Classification based on the texture

Loose face powder

▪ Powder particles are finer and tend to set makeup


better than pressed powder. Finely milled texture
means the powder is easier to layer.

▪ Loose powder is applied with a brush or a puff.


This makes it less portable and more difficult to
apply on the go.
Classification based on the texture

Compact face powder

▪ compact face powder comes in cake form,


providing better and longer- lasting coverage.

▪ compact face powder is applied with a dense puff


or makeup sponge, simplifying application
whenever needed.
Classification based on the texture
Translucent
▪ Translucent powder is unpigmented, sheer powder
used mainly to control oily zones.
▪ Translucent powder can be pressed or loose
powder.

Tinted
▪ Tinted powder is pigmented and is usually worn
without foundation.
▪ Tinted powder can be pressed or loose powder
Loose face powder ingredients
• Talc
• Kaolin
• Calcium carbonate
• Magnesium stearate
• Metallic stearate
• Silica & silicates
• Titanium dioxide
• Zinc oxide
• Pigments
• Perfumes
Talc
The first and foremost naturally occurring mineral
ingredient to be considered in the formulation and
manufacture of face powder.

Easy slip and low covering.

Particle size of a talc at least 98% should pass


through a 200-mesh.
Kaolin (China clay)
Function as slip and absorbent

Help remove the shine of talc.

Grease-resistant and perspiration-absorbent properties.

Has soothing effects on the skin.

Good covering power and adhesion.

Used in formulation to adjust fluffiness and control bulk.

The color of the Kaolin used should be as light as possible.


Calcium Carbonate (Precipitated Chalk)
Acts as absorbent, absorbs moisture to minimize oiliness and
create a matte finish.

helps to absorb the perfume.

Developing the bloom effect when face powder is applied.

Reduces the shine of talc and has good covering power.

Grease-resistant and perspiration-absorbent.

When this raw material is used in excess, the powder may


acquire a dry feel, but moderate usage is most helpful to face
powder formulas.
Magnesium Carbonate

Has fine absorbent properties and distributing


perfume.

Should be employed in moderation, since use


in excess may result in a drying effect on the
skin.
Metallic Stearates

The most important characteristics of zinc


and magnesium stearates are their
adhesive and waterproofing properties.

-Also possesses a soothing quality.

-Use in moderate amounts 4 to 15%.


Silica &Silicates

Maintain free flowing characteristics.

Perfume carriers.

Magnesium trisilicate have extremely high


water-and-oil absorption properties.
Titanium Dioxide
It has less adhesion and does not blend well.

three to four times better as a covering agent


than zinc oxide.

Used alone or in conjunction with zinc


oxide, 10 to 15 % titanium dioxide will
allow for sufficient covering.
Zinc Oxide
It has certain therapeutic properties and help
to clear up minor skin disorders.

It possesses moderate adhesive properties.

To avoid any drying effect and yet allow for


sufficient coverage, a formulation may
consist of as much as 25%.
Rice starch

It is an ideal nutrient for bacteria.

The bloom and absorbent properties that


were contributed by the use of the rice starch
are now provided by calcium carbonate and
other materials.
Color in Face powder

The quantity of color required depends to a


great degree on the type of base used in the
formula.

The use of fine quality inorganic blended with


a smattering of organic lakes allows for a
broad variety of face powder shades.
Common organic lakes commonly used in face powder formulation

Red
D & C Red No. 7 Calcium lake
D & C Red No. 9 Barium lake
D & C Red No. 12 Barium lake
D & C Red No. 13 Strontium lake
D & C Red No. 19 Aluminum lake
D & C Red No. 21 Aluminum lake
D & C Red No. 36 Barium lake
Orange
D & C Orange No. 4 Aluminum lake
D & C Orange No. 17 Barium lake
Yellow
D & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum lake
Perfume in Face powder
Perfume used be non-irritating, stable to mildly
alkaline condition and not undergo oxidation or
volatilize too easily.

The fragrance must be compatible with all of the


powder ingredients since problem with rancidity,
heterogeneity of odor, and discoloration may result
from improper odor selection.

0.2 And 1% is a reasonable perfume rang in a


face powder.
General Preparation of face powder

- All the solid ingredients must be powdered and


pass through suitable sieve

-The preparation of powder is simple as it is simply a


matter of dry mixing of finely powdered materials.

- Add perfume with a part of absorbent materials like


calcium carbonate or with magnesium carbonate and
keep it aside for some time.
General Preparation of face powder

- Mix the color with part of the talc properly and


add the other powders and then the perfume
mixture.

- Mix and sieve the powder mixture using a silk


mesh or an old washed nylon cloth.
Loose face powder-Example

Talc 75%
Zinc oxide 10
Rice starch 10
Zinc stearate 5
Perfume and color q.s.
Compact Face Powder
A Compact Face Powder which has been
compressed into a cake and is usually applied with
a powder puff.
Compact Face Powder
Raw Materials:
There are 2 characteristics for pressed powder:
1. Binding ability
2.Payoff.

Binding Agent:
There are 5 basic types of binders used:
1. Dry binders.
2. Oil binders.
3. Water-soluble binders.
4. Water-repellent binders.
5. Emulsion binders.
Binding Agent

1. Dry binders: such as metallic stearates


(zinc or magnesium stearate).

2. Oil binders: such as mineral oil,


isopropyl myristate, and lanolin
derivatives.
Binding Agent
3. Water-soluble binders: solution of gums :
such as tragacanth, karaya, and Arabic.

Synthetic: such as PVP ( polyvinylpyrollidone),


methyl cellulose, and carboxymethyl-cellulose.

Preservative is essential, this type to present


bacteriological growth problem.
Binding Agent
4. Water-repellent binders: mineral oil, fatty
esters of all types, and lanoline derivatives used and
are mixed with a considerable quantity of water,
preservative and wetting agent.
5. Emulsion binders: soaps: such as
triethanolamine stearate and nonionic emulsifiers in
mineral oil-water combination.
Preservatives: p-hydroxybenzoate-type essential in
compact powders.
Method Of Preparation Compact Face Powder
Compression Method
3 general procedures

Wet molding process

Dry compressing process

Damp compressing process


Wet molding process
-The mixture is made paste like with water and cast
into molds.

-The upper surface of the paste is coated with an


adhesive, then pressed down by properly shaped
metal or glass plates to which the tablets adhered.

- The tablets are then allowed to dry and are


withdrawn from the molds.
Dry compressing process
The mixture are milled and the milled
powder may moistened with binder,

The mixture is then thoroughly blended


and the powder is pressed.

This method is prefer since very little


binding agent is required.
Damp compressing process

- The mixture is wetted down with a liquid


binder, then blended until the proper
plasticity of the mass has been attained.

- The powder is then screened and passed to


compression machines the finished tablets
are dried at elevated temperature.
Compact face powder - Example

Mineral oil 1%
Polyoxyethylene stearate 2
Water 97
Preservative q.s.
Rouges

• Rouges are applied to the cheeks for


enhancing the face beauty.
• Rouges are available in solid, liquid and
cream form
• The color of rouge vary from pink to red
or reddish brown
Dry rouge ingredients

Talcum powder 80 g
Zinc stearate 5g
Zinc oxide 5g
Rice starch 10 g
Color & perfume q.s.
Evaluation of Face Powder
Laboratory Tests:
a. Shade control:

The color of the powder is checked by:


1. Spreading the powder out and flattened on a white
background.
2. By applying the powder to the skin.
3. The color of the pressed powder in the correct
container is assessed.
In each case the sample being assessed is compared for
shade to the standard.
Evaluation of Face Powder
b. Dispersion of color:
Color dispersion is checked by spreading the
powder onto a white surface and examining
under magnification.

c. Pay off:
It is the transfer of powder from the container
to the puff. Pay off should be assessed on the
skin using the correct applicator.
Other evaluation…

• Determination of matter insoluble in boiling water


• Determination of fineness
• Determination of pH of aqueous suspension
• Determination of moisture & volatile matter
• Test for solubility of colors

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