STUDY ON CHEMICAL

FINISHING & MECHANICAL

FINISHING PROCESS.
Textile Finishing:
Finishing is a term which usually refers to the treatments given on a textile
materials to enhance quality, after coloration but before the textiles are cut and
sewn into garments, house hold textiles or other products. In textile
manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or
knitted cloth into usable materials and more specifically to any process
performed after dyeing the yarns or fabric to improve the look, performance or
hand feel of the finished textile or clothing. Finishing is the final series of
operations that produces finished textile fabric from grey goods. Textile
finishing usually includes treatments such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing and/or
printing, the final mechanical or chemical finishing operations etc.

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Fig: Textile finishing process

Classification of textile finishes:
Finishing processes are so varied that it is difficult to classify them. For cotton,
several finishing processes are used widely, but they are so varied in technique
that it is difficult to group them together. The finishing processes may be
broadly classified into two groups:
 Chemical finishing
 Mechanical finishing.
Mechanical finishing is considered a dry operation even though moisture and
chemicals are often needed to successfully process the fabric. The mechanical
finishes include calendaring, immersing, compressive shrinkage, raising,
brushing and shearing or cropping. Chemical finishing or ‘wet finishing’
involves the addition of chemicals to textiles to achieve a desired result. In this
finishing process water is used as the medium for applying the chemicals. Heat
is used to drive off the water and to activate the chemicals. Some finishes
combine mechanical processes along with the application of chemicals.

Another method of classification is to classify finishes as temporary and

permanent or durable finishes. In fact, no finish stands permanently till the
material is serviceable, hence a more accurate classification would be temporary
or durable.

Some of the temporary finishes are:

 Mechanical: calendar, schreinering, embossing, glazing, breaking,
stretching, etc.
 Filling: starch, china clay and other mineral fillers
 Surface application: oil, different softeners and other finishing agents.
Some of the durable finishes are:
 Mechanical: compressive shrinkage, milling of wool, raising and cutting
processes, permanent setting, etc.
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  Deposition: synthetic resins-both internal and external, rubber latex,
laminating, etc.
 Chemical: mercerization, parchmentizing, cross-linking agents, water
repellent finish, fire-resistant and fireproofing finishes, shrink proofing of
wool, etc.
We can also classified textile finishing in the following ways:
 Physical finishing
 Functional finishes of textile
 Chemical finishes
 Plasma finishing
 Coated finishing

All finishing processes are described briefly:

1. Mechanical Finishing:
Involving the application of physical principles such as friction, temperature,
pressure, tension and many others.

1.1 Calendaring:
Calendaring is a process of passing cloth between rollers (or "calendars"),
usually under carefully controlled heat and pressure, to produce a variety of
surface textures or effects in fabric such as compact, smooth, supple, flat and
glazed. The process involves passing fabric through a calendar in which a
highly polished, usually heated, steel bowl rotates at a higher surface speed than
the softer (e.g. cotton or paper packed) bowl against which it works, thus
producing a glaze on the face of the fabric that is in contact with the steel bowl.
The friction ratio is the ratio of the peripheral speed of the faster steel bowl to
that of the slower bowl and is normally in the range 1.5 to 3.0. The normal
woven fabric surface is not flat, particularly in ordinary quality plain weave
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fabrics, because of the round shape of the yarns, and interlacing’s of warp and
weft at right angles to each other. In such fabrics it is more often seen that even
when the fabric is quite regular, it is not flat. During calendaring, the yarns in
the fabric are squashed into a flattened elliptical shape; the intersections are
made to close-up between the yarns. This causes the fabric surface to become
flat and compact. The improved planeness of surface in turn improves the glaze
of the fabric. The calendar machines may have several rollers, some of which
can be heated and varied in speed, so that in addition to pressure a polishing
action can be exerted to increase luster.

1.2 Compacting:
Durable finish imparted on man-made fibers and knitted fabrics by employing
heat and pressure to shrink them to produce a creepy and bulky texture.

1.3 Embossing:
This particular type of calendaring process allows engraving a simple pattern on
the fabric. To produce a pattern in relief by passing fabric through a calendar in
which a heated metal bowl engraved with the pattern works against a relatively
soft bowl, built up of compressed paper or cotton on a metal center.

1.4 Sueding:
Sueding finishing process is carried out by means of a roller coated with
abrasive material. The fabric has a much softer hand and an improved insulating
effect thanks to the fiber end pulled out of the fabric surface.

1.5 Raising or Napping:

The raising of the fiber on the face of the goods by means of teasels or rollers
covered with card clothing (steel wires) that are about one inch in height. Action
by either method raises the protruding fiber’s and causes the finished fabric to
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provide greater warmth to the wearer, makes the cloth more compact, causes the
fabric to become softer in hand or smoother in feel; increase durability and
covers the minute areas between the interlacing’s of the warp and the filling.
Napped fabrics include blankets, flannel, unfinished worsted, and several types
of coatings and some dress goods. Other names for napping are Gigging,
Genapping, Teaseled, and Raised.

1.6 Wool Glazing:

This is done on a special machine, which is used to perform functional finishing
on wool fabrics after raising.

1.7 Shearing:
Shearing is an important preparatory stage in the processing of cotton cloth. The
objective of "Shearing" is to remove fibers and loose threads from the surface of
the fabric, thus improving surface finish.

1.8 Stabilization:
A term usually referring to fabrics in which the dimensions have been set by a
suitable preshrinking operation

1.9 Decating:
Also called Decatizing. A finishing process applied to fabrics to set the material,
enhance luster and improve the hand. Fabric wound onto a perforated roller is
immersed in hot water or has steam blown through it.

1.10 Steaming and Heat setting:

It is done by using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester,
nylon, or triacetate but not effective on cotton or rayon.it may be performed in
fabric form or garment form it may cause shade variation from side-to-side if
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done prior to dyeing; may change the shade if done after dyeing
1.11 Sanforizing or Pre Shrinking:
Sanforizing is a process whereby the fabric is run through a sanforizer; a
machine that has drums filled with hot steam. This process is done to control the
shrinkage of the fabric. The fabric is given an optimum dimensional stability by
applying mechanic forces and water vapor.

1.12 Fulling:
The structure, bulk and shrinkage of wool are modified by applying heat
combined with friction and compression.

2. Chemical Finishing:
The finishes applied by means of chemicals of different origins, a fabric can
receive properties otherwise impossible to obtain with mechanical means.

2.1 Softening:
Softening is carried out when the softness characteristics of a certain fabric must
be improved, always carefully considering the composition and properties of the
substrate.

2.2 Elastomeric Finishes:

Elastomeric finishes are also referred to as stretch or elastic finishes and are
particularly important for knitwear. These finishes are currently achieved only
with silicone-based products. The main effect is durable elasticity, because not
only must extensibility be enhanced, but recovery from deformation is of crucial
importance. After all stresses and disturbing forces have been released, the
fabric should return to its original shape.
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2.3 Crease Resistant or Crease Proofing:

Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibers (cotton, linen and
rayon) that wrinkle easily. Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes
that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout
wearing and cleaning.

2.4 Soil Release Finishes:

These finishes attract water to the surface of fibers during cleaning and help
remove soil.

2.5 Flame Retardant Treatment:

Are applied to combustible fabrics used in children's sleepwear, carpets and
curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame.

2.6 Peach finish:

Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels,
makes the surface velvet like. This is a special finish mostly used in garments.

2.7 Anti Pilling:

Pilling is a phenomenon exhibited by fabrics formed from spun yarns (yarns
made from staple fibers). Pills are masses of tangled fibres that appear on fabric
surfaces during wear or laundering. Fabrics with pills have an unsightly
appearance and an unpleasant handle. Loose fibres are pulled from yarns and
are formed into spherical balls by the frictional forces of abrasion. These balls
of tangled fibres are held to the fabric surface by longer fibres called anchor
fibres.
Anti-pilling finish reduces the forming of pills on fabrics and knitted products
made from yarns with a synthetic-fibre content, which are inclined to pilling by
their considerable strength, flexibility and resistance to impact. Anti-pilling
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finish is based on the use of chemical treatments which aim to suppress the
ability of fibres to slacken and also to reduce the mechanical resistance of
synthetic fibre.
2.8 Non Slip Finish:
A finish applied to a yarn to make it resistant to slipping and sliding when in
contact with another yarn. The main effect of non-slip finishes is to increase the
adhesion between fibres and yarns regardless of fabric construction, the generic
term for these finishes would be fibre and yarn bonding finishes. Other terms
that can be used include anti-slip, non-shift and slip-proofing finishes.

2.9 Oil and Water Proofing:

Waterproof Finishes -Allows no water to penetrate, but tend to be
uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body. Recently, fabrics
have been developed that are waterproof, yet are also breathable

2.10 Water-Repellent Finishes:

Water-repellent finishes resist wetting. If the fabric becomes very wet, water
will eventually pass through. Applied to fabrics found in raincoats, all-weather
coats, hats, capes, umbrellas and shower curtains.

2.11 Anti-Static Finish:

Reduce static electricity which may accumulate on fibres. The most common
type of anti-static finishes are fabric softeners.

2.12 Anti Mildew:

In certain ambient (humidity and heat) conditions, cellulose can be permanently
damaged. This damage can be due to depolymerisation of the cellulose or to the
fact that certain microorganisms (mildews) feed off it. The situation is
worsened, during long storage periods, by the presence of starch finishing
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agents. This damage can be prevented by the use of antiseptics, bacteria

controlling products containing quaternary ammonium salts, and phenol
derivatives. Dyestuffs containing heavy metals can also act as antiseptics.
Permanent modification of the fiber (cyanoethylation) is another possibility.

2.13 Mothproofing Finishes:

Protect protein-containing fibre, such as wool, from being attacked by moths,
carpet beetles and other insects.

2.14 Antibacterial Finish:

The inherent properties of textile fibres provide room for the growth of micro-
organisms. The structure and chemical process may induce the growth, but it is
the humid and warm environment that aggravates the problem further.
Antimicrobial finish is applied to textile materials with a view to protect the
wearer and textile substrate itself.
Antimicrobial finish provides the various benefits of controlling the infestation
by microbes, protect textiles from staining, discoloration, and quality
deterioration and prevents the odor formation. Anti-microbial agents can be
applied to the textile substrates by exhaust, pad-dry-cure, coating, spray and
foam techniques. The application of the finish is now extended to textiles used
for outdoor, healthcare sector, sports and leisure.
UV Protection Fabric treated with UV absorbers ensures that the clothes deflect
the harmful ultraviolet rays of the sun, reducing a person's UVR exposure and
protecting the skin from potential damage. The extent of skin protection
required by different types of human skin depends on UV radiation intensity
and distribution with reference to geographical location, time of day, and
season. This protection is expressed as SPF (Sun Protection Factor), higher the
SPF value better is the protection against UV radiation.
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2.15 Colorfastness Improving Finish:

Color fastness is the resistance of a material to change in any of its color
characteristics, to the transfer of its colorants to adjacent materials or both.
Fading means that the color changes and lightens. Bleeding is the transfer of
color to a secondary, accompanying fiber material. This is often expressed as
soiling or staining meaning that the accompanying material gets soiled or
stained.
The physical and chemical principles involved in the performance of the
fastness improving finishes concern either the interaction with the dyestuff or
with the fiber or both.
The finishes are applied to
 Improve the colorfastness to washing
 Improve the colorfastness to crocking
 Improve the colorfastness to light
 Improve the colorfastness to weathering
 Improve the colorfastness to chemicals washes such as mild bleaching,
dry cleaning and commercial washing.

Conclusion:
Finishing is most efficiently carried out on fabrics. Now a days it's apply all
types of fabrics .Todays, it also apply on different types of garments. So, it’s the
very important process and the final treatment process for textiles materials.
Chemical finishing is always an important component of textile processing
because it makes textile materials marketable and user-friendly. In recent years,
there has been a growing trend towards ‘high-tech’ textile products. As the use
of high performance textiles has grown, the need for chemical finishes to
provide the fabric properties required in these special applications has grown
accordingly.
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