Rock Climbing: Ancient History

ROCK CLIMBING
Rock climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or

across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to
reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined
route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and mentally
demanding sport, one that often tests a climber’s strength,
endurance, agility and balance along with mental control. It can be a
dangerous sport and knowledge of proper climbing techniques and
usage of specialized climbing equipment is crucial for the safe
completion of routes
Brief History
Ancient History
There are Chinese watercolors depicting rock climbers as early as 400 BC.
In the 10th to 12th century, Puebloans in Colorado built cliff dwellings requiring
drilled post holds and carved steps.
The Frenchman, Antoine de Ville, climbed Mont Aiguille on June 26, 1492. His
feat was not repeated until 1834. Mont Aiguille stands 6,800 feet and is south of
Grenoble. The climb was done at the behest of Charles VIII.
Antoine de Ville was the king’s chamberlain and military engineer. He had ten
companions with ropes and ladders on the climb.
Rock climbing wasn’t a sport at the time. De Ville was the first “grimpeur,” or
climbing specialist.
Early Climbing
In the Alpine mountains of the 16th and 17th centuries, rock climbing was for
rescue operations. Toward the end of the 18th century, Mont Blanc was climbed.
Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Europe at 15,777 feet.
John Muir was a famous conservationist and the first president of the Sierra Club.
In 1869 he was in Yosemite and tried his hand at climbing Cathedral Peak. By
today’s standards, that’s a Class 4 out of 5.
He climbed it without ropes!
The Modern Era

The 1940s brought improved gear and more climbers. In 1958, Warren Harding
ascended The Nose on El Capitan. It’s a 3,000-foot climb up a sheer wall once
considered impossible.
The arduous climb took 45 days. Climbers now take less than 3 hours!
Rock climbing was popular in Germany, and the Germans were the first to
embrace the sport.
England saw its share of climbers in the 1900s as well. There were lots of climbs
centered on complicated rock formations.
Although there were no climbing clubs like there are today, people met on an
informal basis to discuss techniques and experiences.
Not to be left out, the Italians started climbing the Dolomite Mountains. But this
was only after a young German from Munich made the climb solo.
Safety Precautions
1Always Check Harnesses
After you've geared up and tied into the rope at the base of a route, always check
that both the climber's and belayer's harness buckles are doubled back. Make sure
the leg loops are also snug; most harnesses have adjustable leg loops.
2Always Check Knots
Before you start climbing, always double check to make sure that the lead climber's
tie-in knot--usually a figure-8 follow-through--is tied correctly and finished with a
backup knot. Also, check that the rope is threaded through both the waist loop and
the leg loops on the harness.
3Always Wear a Climbing Helmet
A climbing helmet is essential if you want to live long and prosper. Always wear one
when climbing or belaying. Helmets protect your head from falling rocks and from
the impact of falling. Remember that your head is soft and the rock is hard. Head
injuries from falls and rockfall are serious life-changing events. A helmet keeps your
head safe.
4Always Check the Rope and Belay Device
Before you lead a route, always double-check to make sure that the rope is properly
threaded through the belay device (especially if it is a GriGri). Also, always make
sure that the rope and belay device are attached with a locking carabiner to the
belay loop on the belayer's harness.
5Always Use a Long Rope
Make sure your climbing rope is long enough to reach the anchors and lower back
down on a sports route or to reach a belay ledge on multi-pitch routes. When sports
climbing, if you have any doubt that the rope is too short, always tie a stopper knot in
the tail end to avoid being dropped to the ground.
6Always Pay Attention
When you're belaying, always pay attention to the leader above. The leader is the
one taking the risks of a fall and leading the route. It is smart to never visit with other
climbers at the base, talk on a cell phone, or discipline your dog or kids while you
are belaying. Never take the leader off belay unless you are absolutely certain that
he is tied into the anchors and safe and he communicates clearly with climbing
commands to you that he is safe and ready to lower or rappel.
7Always Bring Enough Gear
Before you climb a route, always eyeball it from the ground and determine what
you equipment you need to bring. You know best. Do not rely strictly on a guidebook
to tell you what to bring. If it is a sports climbing route, verify visually how many bolts
need quickdraws. If in doubt, always bring a couple more quickdraws than you think
you need.
8Always Climb With the Rope Over Your Leg
When you are leading a route, always make sure that the rope is over your leg
rather than between them or behind one leg. If you fall with the rope in this position,
you will flip upside down and hit your head. Wear a climbing helmet for protection.
9Always Properly Clip the Rope
Make sure you always clip your rope through carabiners on quickdraws correctly.

Avoid back clipping, where the rope runs front to back rather than back to front in the
carabiner. Make sure the carabiner gate faces opposite to your direction of travel,
otherwise the rope can come unclipped. Always use locking carabiners on important
placements.
10Always Use Safe Anchors
At the top of a pitch or route, always use at least two anchors. Three is better.
Redundancy keeps you alive. On a sports route, always use locking carabiners if
you are lowering down to top-rope climb off the anchors.
.
GROUP 1
GAS 12 COPERNICUS

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ROCK CLIMBING

Rock climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or

The Modern Era

2Always Check Knots

4Always Check the Rope and Belay Device

5Always Use a Long Rope

6Always Pay Attention

8Always Climb With the Rope Over Your Leg

9Always Properly Clip the Rope

Make sure you always clip your rope through carabiners on quickdraws correctly.

10Always Use Safe Anchors

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