2005 Oldores
2005 Oldores
2005 Oldores
California State University, Desert Studies Consortium and LSA Associates, Inc.
April 2005
The 2005 Desert Symposium
Table of Contents
Old ores: mines and mineral marketing in the east Mojave Desert—a field trip guide
Robert E. Reynolds and Ted Weasma....................................................................................................................................3
Recent rare mineral finds at the Noonday and War Eagle mines, Tecopa Pass, Inyo Co. CA
Robert M. Housley..................................................................................................................................................................68
Recent rare mineral finds in southern California and Nevada desert mines
Robert M. Housley..................................................................................................................................................................73
The 100% true story of Hubert Tecumseh Miller (except for the made-up bits)
Steven W Smith.......................................................................................................................................................................77
Age constraints of the Copper Canyon Formation, Death Valley National Park, California
Torrey Nyborg and H. PaulBuchheim..................................................................................................................................79
Landslide damage within Big Santa Anita Canyon, Los Angeles County, California
Suzanne M. Baltzer..................................................................................................................................................................82
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Summary (1) Sulfide ores run through a roasting furnace; oxide ores
On Day 1 we will visit base metal mines: gold, lead, run through a blast furnace.
silver, zinc and copper. These metals occur in relatively
(2) Multiple runs through roasting and blast furnaces leave
thin deposits in contrast to the bulk-commodity, open
lead bullion, and continue the separation of copper
pit mines we will visit on day two. Thin, metal-bearing
matte and blister copper.
hydrothermal dikes and secondary enrichment deposits
required crushing, concentration and smelting to produce (3) Lead/silver bullion is put into acid solution that allows
a marketable product. Free-milling gold in quartz simply lead chloride to be precipitated and roasted into bul-
required crushing followed by water panning to concen- lion.
trate the heavy metal. Complex processes were developed On Day 2 we will visit bulk commodity mines whose
to extract low-grade ores of mixed metals associated with production was facilitated by the economics of population
uneconomical “gangue” minerals of pyrite, calcite, barite growth and two World Wars. We will see mines for pure
and fluorite. limestone (marble) that have produced raw material for
Gold extraction (beyond simple arrastra crushing) cement since the 1930s. The first Portland cement factory
required: was commissioned in 1900 at Alameda, California by F.
(1) Classification and fine pulverization; density concentra- M. Smith (Hildebrand, 1982). Iron mines active from the
tion on shaker table. 1930 produced iron as an additive for cement and for the
(2) Amalgamation. Gold has an affinity for, and sinks in, steel industry. Talc was used in cosmetics, ceramics, and
mercury, which floats other materials. Heating drives manufacturing rubber products. These mines were mainly
off mercury for collection and reuse, leaving gold open pits where precision ore removal was followed by
behind. crushing and size classification that allowed shipment of a
marketable product.
(3) Cyanidation. Gold attaches to cyanide, and can be fil-
tered in charcoal. Roasting the charcoal leaves behind
the gold. Historic mining: what to look for
1. Claim Location (location monument, claim notice cor-
Copper extraction is accomplished by leaching. ner posts, discovery prospect)
(1) Copper ore is pulverized and saturated with sulfuric
acid (pyrite helps). 2. Ore (vein, lode, or placer; stockpile)
(2) The copper sulfate solution is mixed with tin (cans), 3. Mine workings (adit, shaft, tunnel, stope decline, tunnel,
causing precipitation of native copper, then sent to winze, raise, prospect pits, open pits)
blast furnace for purification. 4. Equipment (collar, winch, headframe, bin, shoot, hoist,
(3) Copper ore needs sulfides for roasting (mix of ox- tram chute, hoist, ball mill, Wilfley concentrating table)
ides with copper sulfides or pyrite). The blast furnace 5. Milling equipment (arrastra, crusher, grizzly)
produces native copper “matte” which can be shipped
economically. 6. Smelting equipment (assay shop, ovens, slag)
(4) Ultimate refinement involves dissolving copper into a 7. Leaching equipment (reservoirs, ponds, tanks, tin cans,
sulfate solution, and using electrolysis to separate pure sludge)
copper from gold and silver. 8. Ore transport (conveyor, tram, roads, wagon ruts, rail
Lead and silver extraction involves furnaces. beds)
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The Mohawk Mine on Mohawk Ridge: simplified cross-section. 1: landing (=dump). 2: adit portal. 3: adit. 4: drift. 5: winze. 6:raise. 7: incline
(decline). 8: main landing. 9: lower landing. 10: stope. 11: stope to daylight. 12: dump (waste). 13: ore bin. 14: ore chute. 15: winch/hoist.
16: tram station. 17: tram cable. 18: tram buckets. 19: haul road to mill.
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Mill, Evans, 1971) is shown east of the Stuckys complex at of the 1917 blast furnace foundations, acid tanks, and slag.
Cima Road. Valley Wells Station and an associated cattle The slag was poured hot into forms that developed a flat,
ranch were adjacent to the I-15 rest stop. working floor when it cooled. The iron arsenate scorodite
37.6 (7.2) Exit at Cima Road/Excelsior Mine Road. at the Valley Wells smelter suggests that some ore pro-
cessed here came from the Mohawk Mine.
38.0 (0.4) Stop at Cima Road. Turn left (north) and
proceed north over the freeway. The copper milling process involves trucking ore to ore
bin above the crusher. Upon crushing, it was sent by belt
38.5 (0.5) Turn right (east) on old Highway 466 (gas conveyor to a ball mill for fine grinding. Iron pyrite was
pipeline road) and proceed to the Mohawk Mine. roasted in the adjacent sulfuric acid plant, and sulfurous
43.3 (4.8) Turn left (north) toward the Mohawk Mine. gas mixed with the fine ore. The ore was washed and
44.3 (1.0) STOP 1-1. Park. The Clark mining district filtered, and the copper sulfate solution ran through tin
was formed in July,1865, and claims such as the Copper cans in a series of concrete tanks (launders). The copper-
World and Mohawk were surveyed in from stone “min- iron mud was taken to the adjacent smelter or shipped as
eral monuments” such as USMM1, USMM 3, and USMM concentrate (Labbe, 1960). The smelter produced copper
35 and from vertical-angle bench marks (VABM 7929 in matte, which was first hauled to Manvel (Barnwell) and
that district). The Mohawk ore body is high on a ridge, later to the new (closer) rail head at Ivanpah. After 1917,
and the ore follows fractures downward into the hill. The the copper matte was hauled to Cima and shipped by rail
miners had to work against gravity to bring ore to the sur- for further refinement at Garfield, Utah.
face, and then use gravity to help bring ore down shoots The community surrounding the smelter included wooden
and cables to loading bins. The mine produced lead, zinc, buildings and cabins excavated under a roof of Pleisto-
and copper, along with a small shipment of gold. The cene caliche. Rosalie was the post office (Vredenburgh,
Mohawk Mine has produced the most diverse secondary 1996a), and the Valley Wells Cemetery is located north-
assemblage of arsenates, sulfates, carbonates and silicates west (Reynolds, 1996). Be careful of collapsing structures
in the Mojave Desert (Wise, 1989, 1996). and of snakes as you explore the mill site and miner-dug
Although the Copper World Mine, two miles north, cabins. Note that the shelves dug into the cabins’ clay
was worked in the 1890s (Vredenburgh, 1996a and this walls of are the size of wooden dynamite boxes. Retrace
volume; Hensher, this volume), there are no records of to Cima Road.
claims or mill site at the Mohawk until 1916. This suggests 53.3 (1.6) Turn left (south) onto Cima Road.
that ore extraction and shipment was prompted by World 54.4 (1.1) Cross to the south side of I-15.
War I. In 1916, stopes and the mill on the north side of
Mohawk Ridge produced 1.5 tons of lead and silver. A 55.4 (1.0) Turn left (east) and enter east-bound I-15.
drilling program in 1942 located deposits on the south 64.2 (00) Exit at Bailey Road.
side of Mohawk Ridge, and by 1952, 16 tons of ore had 64.5 (0.0) Stop, reconvene at the overpass, turn
been produced. It contained lead, silver, and zinc, and right (south), and stop at Frontage Road.
206 ounces of gold (Wise, 1989; Wright and others, 1953).
Retrace to Cima Road. STOP 1-3. The first mining in the Mountain Pass district
to the north was at the Sulfide Queen, for gold, silver, and
50.1 (5.8) Turn right (north) on Cima/Excelsior Mine lead (Wright and others, 1953). The government encour-
Road. aged prospecting for radioactive minerals after WWII.
50.8 (0.7) Turn right (northeast) onto the road leading Prospectors recognized radioactive monazite, and the
to the Valley Wells copper smelter. United States Geological Survey identified lanthanide-se-
51.7 (0.9) STOP 1-2. Park at Valley Wells (Rosalie). ries minerals in 1950 (Wright and others, 1953; Ririe and
The Valley Wells copper smelter milled ore from sur- Nason, 1991; Hensher, 1996; Morton and others, 1991).
rounding mines, and was a shipping point for incom- The Mollusk (Mescal, Cambria) Mine dumps can be see
ing goods and outgoing products. Ore processed at the upslope to the southwest. High-grade gold and silver and
smelter came from the Copper World mine as early as associated antimony extracted between 1882 and 1888
1898, first by 20-mule team and later by tractor and trailer were processed through a 10-stamp mill at Mescal Spring
(Vredenburgh, 1996a). The two ore bins at the Copper (Vredenburgh, 1996a; Wright and others, 1953). An excit-
World mine were for different purposes (Labbe, 1960): the ing story about counterfeit coinage is associated with this
larger held copper ore, and the smaller held iron and lime mine (Bennett, this volume). Return to vehicles; proceed
for fluxes at the Valley Wells smelter. Sulfur, to charge the east.
smelter, came from the Francis copper mine in the south- 65.1 (0.6) Turn south.
ern Providence Mountains and from Utah (Vredenburgh,
1996a). The assay house and pyrite from the dumps were 65.6 (0.5) Turn left at the junction of roads at a corral.
removed by the EPA in late 1990s because of arsenic (ar- Continue to summit.
senopyrite) with the pyrite. We are looking at the remains 67.2 (1.6) Bear right at the summit.
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67.5 (0.3 ) Bear right at the road junction with a sign to hauled by wagon to a smelter at Needles. Rail service was
Kokoweef Cave. established to Cima in 1905, and ore was then hauled by
68.2 (0.7) Stop at the intersection with a sign to 16-horse-team wagons to rail cars bound for smelters in
Kokoweef Cave. Salt Lake, Utah. Retrace to the west.
STOP 1-4. Kokoweef Peak is to the southeast. The Car- 73.3 (0.1) Turn left (southwest) at the “Y” junction
bonate King Mine (southern dumps) produced zinc from toward the Evening Star Mine.
the zinc silicate, hemimorphite, and the zinc carbonate, 73.5 (0.2) Pass a reverse “Y” junction.
smithsonite, along with lead and silver between 1940 and 73.9 (0.4) Continue past the cemetery with headstones
1944. Additional ore was shipped as late as 1950 (Evans, that read J. Riley Bembry, Raymond Arthur Walker, and
1971; Wright and others, 1953). Dumps to the north are Joseph N. Kelley.
from the adit intersecting Kokoweef Cave, where 75 years
74.3 (0.4) Continue past a left turn and proceed southwest.
of looking for the Lost River of Gold have produced more
fossils than base metal (Reynolds and others, 1991). Pro- 74.5 (0.2) Proceed southwest across a road running west to
ceed southwest. Cima Road.
68.9 (0.7) Bear left (south) where the road forks toward 75.0 (0.5) Three-way junction. Two forks trend southeast;
Striped Mountain. take the southern fork toward the Evening Star head-
frame.
69.2 (0.3) Cross an airstrip.
75.2 (0.2) STOP 1-7. Evening Star Mine. The Eve-
69.3(0.1) Pass through a reverse junction and continue
ning Star Mine was the only producer of tin ore (cassiter-
southwest toward Striped Mountain.
ite, tin oxide) in the eastern Mojave Desert. The cassiterite
69.7 (0.4) Turn left (south) at the three-way junction, was found associated with copper sulfides (chalcopyrite,
toward the saddle on the east side of Striped Mountain. bournite and covellite) and their oxides (malachite, cu-
70.0 (0.3) Continue past a left turn. prite, tenorite) in a skarn body that contained the gangue
70.5 (0.5) Pass through “Y” junction. minerals pyrite, scheelite, chrysocolla, and wollastonite
(Aubury, 1908; Wright et al, 1953; Joseph, 1984.). The
71.2 (0.7) Continue past mine workings to the southwest. mine was in production between 1939 and 1944. The
71.5 (0.3) Cross over the saddle. tall head frame was built to hoist ore from underground
71.8 (0.3) Turn right (north) toward the Silverado– workings. When the ore reached the top, it was dumped
Tungstite claims. through a series of four-cylinder engine-powered crushers
and screens that classified the ore into marketable concen-
72.1 (0.3) Stop 1-5. The Silverado–Tungstite
trate could be separated from unwanted gangue minerals.
claims. Silver was shipped from the Silverado Claim be-
The amount of imported timber and the crushing equip-
fore 1900 (Wright and others, 1953). The Tungstite skarn
ment (now missing) indicate how serious the miners were
is along a dolomite/granitic contact containing epidote,
garnet and scheelite (calcium
tungstate); it was prospected until
1951. The four rock ruins were
apparently housing and an assay
building.. Retrace to main road.
72.4 (3) Turn right (south).
72.8 (0.4) Turn left (southeast)
toward the Standard No 1 Mine.
73.0 (0.2) Continue past mine
dumps.
73.2 (0.2) STOP 1-6. Standard
No. 1 (Excelsior, Bluegrass,
Copper Town) Mine Camp.
The Excelsior was located in 1896
and produced copper with gold
and silver between 1902 and 1908
from a skarn that contained mag-
netite, chalcopyrite, and scheelite
(Hewett, 1956; Wright and others,
1953; Weasma, 2005) . Before
1905, ore from the Standard No. 1 was The Evening Star Mine. R.E. Reynolds photograph.
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concentrator, and fines to a double-deck Deister (concen- 101.8 (3.0) Continue past a left (north) turn to the Death
trating) table. The entire plant was driven by an electric Valley Mine.
motor. 102.4 (0.6) Slow; enter Cedar Canyon Wash.
When one author (Bob Reynolds) visited the mine care- 103.7 (1.3). Slow for sharp right turn ahead.
takers (Dick and Bea Huff) in the mid-1970s, Dick had
just finished clearing debris from the collapsed vertical 104.7 (1.0) Continue past a right (south) turn on Black
shaft. He and Bob climbed down to the main crosscut and Canyon Road that leads to the Hole-in-the-Wall and Mid
observed almost a hundred skeletons of birds (scrub jays Hills campgrounds.
and flycatchers) and mammals (cottontails and ground 105.4 (0.7) Pinto Mountain is on the north.
squirrels). During hot weather, the animals had worked 107.6 (2.2) Slow for a sharp left turn just beyond the rise.
their way down fissures in the collapsed shaft, following
108.2 (0.6) Continue past a right (south) turn that leads to
the scent of moisture. Groups of skeletons lay pointed at
Government Holes, marked by a corral, water tank, and
puddles; they could enter the mine to drink sulfate-rich
cottonwood trees. This is the site of a battle between gun-
water, but could not climb out for food.
men hired by the 7IL Cattle Company and homesteaders
Return to vehicles at the gate; retrace to the paved who were trying to claim and farm rangeland in Lanfair
Morning Star Mine Road. Valley (1925, Casebier, 1987; Reynolds and others, 1995,
91.6 (0.1) Pass a left turn on the scenic road south to Ce- p. 16). After a brief duel at the range cabin, one gunman
dar Canyon Road. was killed; the other died later of bullet wounds. Report-
94.2 (2.6) Stop at paved Morning Star Mine Road. edly, bullet holes could still be seen in the cabin in 1950.
Watch for cross traffic and turn left (south) toward 109.5 (1.3) Slow for a steep downhill stretch.
Cima. 110.0 (0.5) Turn right (south) into the sand wash that
94.3 (0.1) Stop at a complex intersection where Cima leads to Fort Rock Spring.
and Morning Star Mine roads meet. Turn left (south) 110.1 (0.1) Bear right at the fork.
on Cima Road.
110.2 (0.1) STOP 1- 9. Camp Rock Spring. Indian
94.6 (0.3) Pass the Cima store and Post Office. This was a attacks in 1866 claimed the lives of troops and civilians at
community center, supply source, and rail head for ship- Soda Lake, Marl Spring, and Camp Cady. Moses Little,
ping from 1915 to 1960. a miner, was killed at Macedonia Mountain in the New
98.8 (4.2) Turn left (east) on Cedar Canyon Road. York Mountains northeast of Rock Spring on June 12,
We are traveling on the Mojave Road, first pioneered by 1866. In response, government troops built and occupied
Lieutenant Edward Beale in 1856 and well established by redouts or small fortified camps at springs one day’s travel
1858 (Casebier, 1974; Vredenburgh, 1995). After Mo- apart along the Mojave Road. Immigrants and mail stages
jave Indians forced emigrants to turn back in 1858 and entered California at Fort Mojave on the Colorado River,
prospector Moses Little was killed in 1866 (Casebier, 1973; continued westward to Fort Piute, Camp Rock Spring,
Vredenburgh, 1995), troops were sent to man outposts at Marl Spring, and passed Seventeen Mile Point to reach
springs that were one day’s travel apart; the route then Fort Soda (Zzyzx). The Mojave (Government) Road con-
became known as the Government Road (Casebier, 1974). tinued up the sandy outwash of the Mojave River, through
This area along the Mojave Road was originally called the Afton Canyon, joined a branch of the Old Spanish Trail,
Providence Mountains and was later divided into the New and proceeded west to Camp Cady. It continued from
York Mountains (north), Mid Hills (ahead), and Provi- Fish Ponds on the Mojave River (between Daggett and
dence Mountains (south). Barstow) to the Drum Barracks in Los Angeles.
The Rock Spring mining district (Stop 1-9) is the oldest Mining in the Rock Spring area preceded the military
district in this area (April 1863: Vredenburgh and oth- camp. Camp Rock Spring was established on a cold
ers,1981; Vredenburgh, 1995), established after Beale December 30,1866 (Casebier, 1973) by soldiers that were
opened the Mojave Road. The Rock Spring mining dis- under-supplied and nervous; petroglyphs around the
trict was large, including Macedonia Mountain in the New spring indicated heavy Indian usage. They chose the site
York Mountains. The eastern New York Mountains (New for its water and defensible position, and they stored sup-
York, Manvel district, April 1870) contained deposits of plies in mine adits dug previously (Casebier, 1973).
copper, lead-silver-zinc, and iron/manganese tungstates Return to vehicles, retrace to the Old Government
along with a system of mule trails to haul lumber and Road.
charcoal (Reynolds and Reynolds, 1995). The Columbia
110.5 (0.3) Stop, watch for traffic on the Old Govern-
(Macedonia) district, organized August, 1865 near Colum-
ment Road, and turn right (east) toward Lanfair.
bia Mountain to our east-southeast, produced lead-silver-
Proceed slowly along the curving road.
zinc and minor gold; scheelite (calcium tungstate) is also
recognized in the district. 111.0 (0.5) The Old Government Road bears right.
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112.5 (1.5) The Old Government Road bears left. 161.4 (0.8) Turn left (south) at the intersection. Con-
113.0 (0.5) The Old Government Road bears right. tinue past a hill of white Paleozoic limestone overlain by
Miocene volcanics.
114.0 (1.0) The Old Government Road bears left.
162.6 (1.2) Pass under I-40.
117.2 (3.2) Pass on the north side of a Paleozoic limestone
outcrop. 162.8 (0.2) STOP 1-12. Gold Hammer Mine. Park
and walk to the Gold Hammer Mine (Wright et al,
120.2 (3.0) STOP 1- 10 at the intersection of Ivanpah 1953). Caution: Watch for open mine shafts. We have
and Lanfair roads. The site of the Lanfair school house is passed through Paleozoic limestone and are now standing
to the northeast. Lanfair was a community center in the on “Archean Gneiss” which contains gold-bearing quartz
1890s–1930s. The Nevada Southern Railroad brought sup- veins. The Gold Hammer Mine workings consist of an ore
plies from Needles to mines in the mountains surrounding loading structure (jaw crusher probably present), an Ellis
Lanfair Valley and connected with Manvel (Barnwell) Ball Mill for pulverizing ore, and a Wilfley shaker table
in 1893 (Myrick, 1963). The California Eastern Railroad for concentrating the ore before shipment. Retrace to
was continued to Ivanpah in 1902 to receive ore from the Essex Road.
Copper World Mine and the Vanderbilt Mine. When
the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad siphoned off trade 164.1 (1.3) Turn right (east).
in 1907, the Santa Fe built the Barnwell & Searchlight 164.9 (0.8) Stop at pavement: turn left (north) on
Railway to service mines and communities. Labor difficul- Essex Road toward Mitchell Caverns. If you do not
ties and severe washouts halted rail service to Barnwell have a high-clearance vehicle, take the alter-
by 1923 (Myrick, 1963). Homesteaders, often working in nate route, below:
the mines and for the railroad, grew dry crops on their
40-acre parcels and sent their children to school at Lanfair.
In the hot summer months, railroad workers in Needles Alternate Route (50 miles on pavement)]
sent their families to the cooler reaches of Fourth of July 164.9 (0.8) STOP at pavement: Turn right (south) on
Canyon. Essex Road toward I-40.
(2.3) TURN RIGHT (west) onto I-40 toward Kelbaker Road
Turn right (south) on Lanfair Road.
Pass, the Clipper Mountains, and the northern Marble Moun-
122.3 (2.1) Continue past a right (west) turn to Fords Dry tains.
Lake.
124.7 (2.4) Slow for sharp turns downhill.
125.4 (0.7) Cross Vontrigger Wash.
126.2 (0.8) Continue past a turn to Vontrigger Springs
(Hensher, this volume). The California Gold and Copper
mine lies to the east at 9:00.
132.7 (6.5) Pass under a powerline road leading northeast
to the Leiser Ray Mine, a vanadium producer.
140.5 (7.8) Stop 1-11. Goffs School House. Enjoy a
tour of local history, discussion of the Government Road,
and Mojave-wide mining paraphernalia. We will see steam
boilers that powered mining equipment and stamp mills,
head frames, ore bins, ore cars, and other equipment used
to extract minerals from Mojave Desert mountains. Return
to vehicles and
proceed south to Route 66.
140.7 (0.2) Turn right (west) on Route 66 and proceed
toward Fenner.
150.5 (9.8) Continue past Fenner.
150.8 (0.3) Enter westbound I-40.
158.0 (7.2) Exit at Essex Road.
158.2 (0.2) Turn right (north) on paved Essex Road.
160.1 (1.9) Slow for upcoming left turn.
160.6 (0.5). Turn left off pavement onto a west-trending
dirt road. Loading bin at the Gold Hammer Mine. R.E. Reynolds photograph.
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Wash, and proceeds west past Seventeen Mile Point and Mining Scams
the Old Dad Mountains. A. Soda Lake Salt Works. Walk east to the salt
199.3 (5.3) Slow through curves. flats of Soda Lake (see Fulton, this volume for details).
Excavated into the lake surface are ponds that were filled
199.6 (0.3) Cross Willow Wash. with brine from wells on the lake. Ample solar heating
200.4 (0.8) Pass Seventeen Mile point on the left (west). was available to evaporate water and leave a salt (sodium
Seventeen Mile point is about halfway between Marl chloride) crust. The crust was to be collected, shipped,
Spring to the east and Fort Soda (Zzyzx), the next stop on and concentrated in Los Angeles. Despite promotional ad-
the Old Government Road where protection and fresh vertisement, excavation of ponds, and railroad availability,
water were available. no product was ever shipped.
201.7 (1.3) Slow through curve. The road bends B. Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad (Chappell, this
sharply left (west) toward Baker. View west past Seventeen volume; Myrick, 1963; Mulqueen, 2002). Borax Smith,
Mile Point toward Fort Soda, Cave Mountain, and Afton competing with Senator Clark of Nevada for borax and
Canyon along the Mojave River. base metals in Death Valley, started building the Tonopah
212.1 (10.4) Cross I-15 into Baker. Be sure to fill gas & Tidewater Railroad (T & T) north from Ludlow in
tank and pick up drinks, snacks, and sunscreen for tomor- November, 1905. Rails reached Soda Lake and the active
row. community and shipping center (Rose, Heath, Fisk Co.) of
Silver Lake in March, 1906. The T & T roadbed can be
End of Day 1 seen just west of the main pond at the CSUF Desert Stud-
Day 2 ies Center as it runs north across Soda Lake toward the
site of Silver Lake (below). Building the T & T through
Introduction the Amargosa River gorge was extremely difficult, but
Along the way as we visit bulk-commodity mines, we will Beatty, Nevada was reached in October, 1907. Further dif-
stop at the West Camp/Apache Canyon turquoise mines ficulties arose when the Mojave River flooded Silver Lake
that have been prospected for over a thousand years in 1908 and again, more severely, in 1916. This prompted
(Reynolds, this volume). Who knows, maybe you will find the move of the T & T roadbed and the town to higher
a blue nugget overlooked by prehistoric miners! elevation on the east side of the lake. The line was aban-
doned in 1939. Winter/spring rains in 2005 again flooded
0.0 (0.0) Convene at Zzyzx with a full tank of gas for Silver Lake, submerging the original roadbed
the 150 mile trip. Prepare for a walking trip to local salt
C. Lost Gold Never Found! During the 1970-1980s,
mining operations before the full day vehicular trip. Wear
“mining” companies promoted the recovery of gold from
sturdy shoes and dress for the occasion; bring hats and
sands and silts located in valley centers (Shadow Valley,
sunscreen.
Soda Lake, and Silver Lake). The ore was a kind of water-
Fort Soda Tour: Historic Mines, Railroads, and soluble gold (great clue!), and was leached from surround-
ing mountains and washed centrally
to dry lakes. Here’s the pitch: you
could buy stock, buy “ore” and
process it yourself, or buy “ore” and
pay the company to process it! The
operation on Silver Lake had samples
assayed, and the values increased to
the west—that is, toward the T & T
roadbed, which was built with gold-
bearing andesite from the Bagdad-
Chase Mine at Ludlow. However, the
roadbed couldn’t be touched because
it was an historic site! Return to
vehicles, assemble at main gate.
1.1 (1.1) Pass the main gate.
4.6 (3.5) Enter I-15 eastbound.
10.4 (5.8) Baker Hill (Bishop, this
volume) is north of the west Baker
offramp.
10.9 (0.5) Exit at Kelbaker Road,
Silver Lake, filled with water. R.E. Reynolds photograph, February 2005. central Baker.
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11.3 (0.4) Stop, turn left (north), and proceed north (Vredenburgh, 1994). For weeks the stages were crowded
over the freeway. with outbound, not inbound, miners. Because of the panic
11.7 (0.4) Stop at Main Street in Baker. Proceed of 1907, Crackerjack (only 90 days old) slumped, as did
north on Highway 127. other camps. About 1910, O.J. and Della Fisk moved to
San Bernardino where they became active civic leaders.
12.2 (0.5) The Aga Mine (Housley, this volume) is located
in the hill to the west, at the south end of Silver Lake. 20.2 (1.3) Pass under the LADWP powerline. We will re-
turn to this intersection after Stop 2-1, the Amargosa Mine
13.4 (1.2) The Soda Mountains are on the left (Gourley at Salt Springs.
and Brady, 2000).
20.4 (0.2) Pass over the saddle. Highway 127 leaves the
18.9 (5.5) Pass the second townsite of Silver Lake, rebuilt Silver Lake basin and descends into Silurian Valley,
at elevation 960’ along the relocated grade of the Tonopah marking the present divide between the Mojave River and
and Tidewater (T&T) railroad. Adobe ruins on the right Salt Creek drainages. Salt Creek flows northward through
mark the terminus of a stage line where O.J. and Della Silurian Valley and joins with the Amargosa River just
Fisk operated a mercantile store. Oliver James (Jim) Fisk north of the Dumont Basin.
was born in Iowa on August 10, 1873.
22.1 (1.7) The Avawatz Mountains and Mormon Spring
At age 14, Fisk headed for California, crossing the are to the northwest.
southern Nevada Mud Hills (Muddy Creek Formation at
Moapa) on foot. He was 20 when he worked as a hoist 26.9 (4.8) Continue past a turn to Riggs and the Silurian
man on the Gold Bronze Mine in Vanderbilt, Califor- Hills (Duffield-Stoll, 1996).
nia. In 1901 he built an ice place in Manvel (Barnwell; 31.7 (4.8) The site of Renoville is on the left. Continue
Hensher, this volume) that supplied ice to boom camps: past a right turn to Valjean Valley.
Searchlight, Crescent, and Sandy, Nevada; and Hart, 37.3 (5.6) Continue past Lake Dumont (Anderson and
California. He then went into partnership with the Rose & Wells, 1997).
Palmer transportation firm which hauled freight from the
38.8 (1.5) Turn right into the Salt Spring BLM informa-
desert railhead at Ivanpah Dry Lake across Stateline Pass
tion center (and rest rooms) at the southern Salt Spring
north into Pahrump Valley to Sandy Valley, Pahrump,
Hills.
Beatty, Bullfrog, and Rhyolite, Nevada.
STOP 2-1. Amargosa (Salt Spring) Gold Mine.
Around 1894 O.M. Fisk and Della May White were mar-
Salt Spring was a stop on the Old Spanish Trail, opened
ried in Redlands, California. Della, born in Sommerville,
by Armijo in 1830 and traveled by Frémont in 1844.
Oregon in 1875, was the daughter of Harsha and Maude
Argonauts discovered gold here in1849 (Lingenfelter,1986;
Yount White. Della’s father managed the Manse Ranch in
Harder, 1997, 2000; Vredenburgh, 1994, 1995). The
the Pahrump, developed by Joseph Yount, Della’s grand-
current mine owner, Emmet Harder, offers the following
father. Mr. Yount was a cattleman, and on the ranch he
excerpts regarding this discovery:
raised and sold hay and managed a vineyard and winery.
He later owned a sawmill and valuable timber options in Amargosa Gold Mine (from Vredenburgh and others,
the Charleston Mountains. Eventually Jim Fisk, a mining 1981, p. 60)
engineer credited with building and operating some of the The earliest recorded gold discovery in San
largest and most successful ore recovery mills in the gold Bernardino County occurred at Salt Springs,
boom, became involved in the mercantile and lumbering at a point on the Santa Fe-Salt Lake Trail. Per-
business. He and Della made their home in Greenwater, sistent rumors have it that gold was panned...
a copper camp near Death Valley. While Jim was mining, here by the Mexicans ...trading between Santa
Della ran a general merchandise store. Fe, New Mexico and Los Angeles from 1826
During the mining boom in Goodsprings, Nevada (Kep-
per, 2000; Hensher, 2000), Harsha White and Joseph
Yount located the Boss Mine (Housley, this volume) and,
two years later, the Columbia Mine. Jim went to Good-
springs in 1892 to take over Harsha White’s interest in the
mines and, with S. E. (Sam) Yount, formed the Boss Gold
Mining Company. In 1898 Jim built one of the mills in the
mining camp Johnnie, Nevada. He returned 10 years later
as a master mechanic in the operation.
Jim Fisk built a 30-mile road from Silver Lake to Cracker-
jack, a mining camp to the west on the south side of the
Avawatz Mountains, over which the Rose, Palmer & Fisk
stage line made tri-weekly trips carrying people and mail
The Amargosa River. R.E. Reynolds photograph.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
until 1848. In December, 1849, a Mr. Rowan spot with a drove of horses and were attacked
and other members of a party of Mormons led by a band of Indians, nearly all massacred.
by Jefferson Hunt discovered a quartz vein in Bro. Rich and his company of packers left us
a small canyon near the spring, in which they here and went ahead...
found nuggets, the largest about the size of a
Nov. 30th Traveled 7 miles and come to
pea. In 1850, Frank Soule, later a state senator,
Salaratus Creek or Vegas, covered with grass
relocated the gold deposit and took some sam-
and a part of it was white as snow with Salara-
ples back to San Francisco. A Mormon party
tus ... We traveled down the stream... [Ama-
headed to San Bernardino in December, 1850
rgosa River] ...about knee deep and strongly
met William T. B. Stanford ... near Daggett, ...
impregnated with alkali that it is said to kill
hauling a mill to Salt Springs. Ben Sublette, a
cattle when they drink it, in many places grass
“noted mountaineer” worked the mines from
is plenty and good, the banks or walls on each
1850 to 1852 with great success. However,
side appear to be composition of clay lime
after several men were killed by Indians, he
and salaratus
abandoned the enterprise.
Dec. 1st Left the Vegas after following it 6
In September, 1860, a Los Angeles company
miles [where] the high banks run out and we
employed 30 men and had 3 arrastras running.
passed over a sandy desert to Salt Springs. As
Also in 1860, placer ground was discovered
we drew near the spring we left the wagon
about 2 miles away and the gravel was hauled
track and followed Capt. Hunt up a narrow
in wagons to the springs, indeed an expensive
canion, when I espied some [granite], ....and
way to placer.
observed that if we could find quartz among
In 1863 the Amargosa Gold and Silver Min- it we might perhaps find gold, as I was the
ing Company of San Francisco acquired the only one among us that had been in the gold
mines at Salt Spring and in the fall of 1863, mines, was why I took more notice of it al
they installed a new mill that “met with good first than the rest, we then all four of us com-
success.” On October 29, 1864, news broke in menced looking, ... we had not gone far be-
Los Angeles concerning the death of three... fore Mr. Rowan says “Here is gold,” on look-
caretakers at the property. One of the men ing I saw that he had found some in a stratum
had been killed by Indians, and the mill had of quartz about four inches wide running
been burned. The other two men were found through a ledge of granite. It was a collection
20 miles away, having committed suicide by of small particles the largest about the size of a
putting bullets through their skulls. pea. We found other specimans but the spring
was so salt that we could not drink it and we
In the middle of the 1860s, a new company
had to go ahead to the camping place to get
took over the mine and operated it success-
water which we found standing in holes, left
fully for a couple of months. Yet, even though
by the last rains.
they later were reported to have grossed
$11,000 from one blast of two tons of ore, and Walk northeast over the saddle on a BLM hiking trail to
during a period of one month, the five-stamp the Amargosa Gold Mine. Caution: stay away from
mill produced $58,000 in gold. By1870 the vertical shafts that have collars subject to collapse. Do not
property was idle. enter mine tunnels, adits or stopes, since they are homes
for rattlesnakes and bats. Return to vehicles, retrace
In 1902, J. B. Osborne worked the mine.
toward Baker.
In a week’s run of his five-stamp mill, $60,000
of gold was produced. Mendenhall (1909) 38.9 (0.1) Stop at Hwy 247. Watch for cross traffic; pro-
described the site: “At the old mine there is ceed south.
a little canyon that descends sharply to the 46.1 (7.2) Pass a turn to Valjean and Kingston Wash.
north, in which are the ruins of a twenty-stamp
50.9 (4.8) Pass a turn to Riggs and the Silurian Hills.
mill. Near the mill are two wells, protected by
curbing and covered... 58.2 (6.8) The road crosses a saddle ahead. Prepare to
turn right at the LADWP Powerline Road.
Journals of Forty-Niners—Addison Pratt’s Diary (Hafen
58.7 (0.5) Turn right (west) on LADWP Powerline
and Hafen, p. 94- 107)
Road and proceed through hills of Riggs Carbonate
(white) and black diabase (Gross, 1959).
Stayed here (Archalette) ..a great abun-
dance of grass here. A year or two since 59.0 (0.3) STOP 2-2. The Silver Lake Outflow
[1844] some Spaniards were camped on this drains to the north through a saddle at elevation 945’
before entering the Salt Creek Drainage flowing from Red
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
78.4 (0.6) Pass a LADWP construction camp built be- 88.9 (0.4) Turn right (west) at the junction.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
89.1 (0.2) Turn left (south) at the junction toward the 94.5 (0.1) Bear right (south) at the fork, past the mine
powerline. shafts. (The left fork runs east past the microwave station
and the site of the historic air beacon.). Our route is over
89.7 (0.6) Pass valve station #617. Teutonia quartz monzonite (Beckerman,1982).
89.8 (0.1) Stop at the LADWP Powerline Road, look for 94.7 (0.2) Bear right (south) at the junction.
traffic, and turn left (east), preparing for an immediate
right turn (south). Make a quick turn left and then 95.6 (0.9) Turn left (east) at the junction.
right (southeast) and drive along the sand wash. 95.7 (0.1) Continue past the Wander Mine (Wanderer
90.1 (0.3) Slow for a dip. Mine and Mill), one of the earliest gold mines (1902) in
the Halloran Spring mining district (Vredenburgh, 1996c;
91.0 ( 0.9) Turn left (east) up the terrace. Tucker, 1931 p. 320). The district was active in 1900 and
92.3 (1.3) Turn left at a complex intersection. again in the 1930s. Today the Telegraph Mine, east of
92.5 (0.2 ) The road drops into the wash. Halloran Spring, is sporadically active, depending on the
price of gold.
93.1 (0.6) STOP 2-5. Halloran Turquoise (Reyn-
olds, this volume; Sperisen, 1897, 1983). Park at the 97.2 (1.5) Continue past a turn to the left (NN 577).
97.3 (0.1) Continue past a turn to the
left (NN 572).
97.9 (0.6) Continue past a turn to the
left (NN 569).
98.5 (0.6) Continue past a deposit of
pyroxene andesite to the left.
98.7 (0.2) Continue past a turn to the
south (NN 567) at Mesquite Wash.
99.2 (0.5) Bull Spring Wash Road
(with patchy pavement). Turn left
(north) and immediately right
(east).
99.6 (0.4) Continue past a black pyrox-
ene andesite outcrop and a mine cabin
on the right (south).
100.0 (0.4) Stop at the paved Hal-
loran Springs/Microwave Road. Look
for traffic; turn right (east) and
The Gould shaft at the Silver Lake talc mine. R.E. Reynolds photograph.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
2000; Wright and others, 1953). This mine was opened in Hildebrand, G.H.,1982. Borax Pioneer—Francis Marion Smith. Howell-
North Books.
1930 and the iron was used in the manufacture of cement.
Hewett, D.F., 1956. Geology and mineral resources of the Ivanpah quad-
Retrace to Basin Road. rangle, California and Nevada. USGS Professional Paper 275.
141.7 (0.4) Turn sharp right at Basin Road. Ahead Kepper, Jack, 2000. The geology and ore deposits of the Yellow Pine
Mining District, Goodsprings, Clark County, Nevada. San Bernar-
lie the Cave Canyon (Baxter) limestone mines, and the dino County Museum Association Quarterly, 47(2):78.
World War II Afton Canyon (Cliffside) magnesite mine Labbe, Charles, 1960. Rocky trails of the past:222.
(Wright and others, 1953). Roads from the south brought Lingenfelter, Richard E., 1986. Death Valley and the Amargosa, a land
Afton fluorite to Baxter Siding for shipment (Wright and of illusion. Berkeley, University of California Press:664 p.
McCurry, Michael, D.R. Lux and K.L. Mickus, 1995. Neogene structural
others, 1953) . evolution of the Woods Mountains volcanic center, East Mojave
143.2 (1.5) Approach the Mojave River channel. National Scenic Area. San Bernardino County Museum Association
Quarterly, 42(3):75-80.
CANCELLED DUE TO FLOODING !!!!! (see Morton, D.M., K. D. Watson, and A. K. Baird, 1991. Alkalic silicate
Presch, this volume). rocks of the Mountain Pass district, San Bernardino County, CA. San
Bernardino County Museum Association Special Publication, SP
91-1:90 - 96.
Mulqueen, Steven P., 2002. Borax Smith and the T & T Railroad. CSU
References cited Fullerton, Desert Studies Consortium:19-25.
Anderson, D. E. and S. G. Wells, 1997. Late Pleistocene and Holocene
Myers, W.A. 1983. Iron Men and Copper Wires. Glendale: Trans_Anglo
valley-fill deposits of Lake Dumont. San Bernardino County Museum
Books.
Association Quarterly, 44(2):29-32.
Myrick, D.F., 1963. Railroads of Nevada and Eastern California, vol 2,
Aubury, Lewis E., 1908. The copper resources of California. California
the southern roads. Berkeley: Howell-North Books.
State Mining Bureau, Bulletin 50.
Page, L.R. and J.H. Wiese, 1945. The Evening Star tin deposit and
Beckerman, G.M., 1982. Petrology of the southern portion of the Teu-
adjacent tungsten deposits, San Bernardino County, California. USGS
tonia batholith: a large intrusive complex of Jurassic and Cretaceous
technical reports section.
age in the eastern Mojave Desert, California. MS thesis, University of
Ririe, G. T. and Geoff Nason, 1991. Molycorp’s Mountain Pass Mine.
Southern California.
San Bernardino County Museum Association Special Publication, SP
Bishop, Kim M., 2003. Miocene landslides within Avawatz Basin support
91-1:87-89.
hypothesis of a Paleozoic allocthon above Mesozoic metavolcanic
Reynolds, R.E., 1995. Wild Horse Mesa pack mule trails. San Bernardino
rocks in the Soda and Avawatz Mountains, southeastern California.
County Museum Association Quarterly, 42(3):85-88.
California State Fullerton, Desert Studies Consortium, 2003 Field
Reynolds, R. E., David Miller, J.E. Nielson, and Michael McCurry, 1995.
Guide:42-47.
Field trip guide: ancient surfaces of the East Mojave Desert. San
Brown, H. J., and Larry Monroe, 2000. Geology and mineral deposits
Bernardino County Museum Association Quarterly, 42(3):5-26.
in the Baxter–Basin area south of Cave Mountain, San Bernardino
Reynolds, R.E. and J. Reynolds, 1995. Pack mule trails in the New York
County, California. San Bernardino County Museum Association
Mountains. San Bernardino County Museum Association Quarterly,
Quarterly, 47(2):42-46.
42(3):143-148.
Casebier, Dennis G.,1973. Camp Rock Springs, California. Tales of the
Reynolds, R.E., R.L. Reynolds, C.J. Bell, N.J. Czaplewski, H.T. Good-
Mojave Road Publishing Co., Norco, CA.
win, J.I. Mead, and B. Roth, 1991. The Kokoweef Cave faunal
___,1974 Fort Pah-Ute, California. Tales of the Mojave Road Publishing
assemblage. San Bernardino County Museum Association Special
Co., Norco, CA.
Publication, SP91-1:97-103.
___,1987. Guide to the East Mojave Heritage Trail, Needles to Ivanpah.
Reynolds, R. E., G. T. Ririe, D. Miller, and L. Vredenburgh, 1996.
Norco, Tales of the Mojave Road: 320 p.
Punctuated Chaos: a field trip guide in the northeastern Mojave
Duffield-Stoll, Anne Q. 1996. Mines and miners of the Silurian Valley.
Desert. San Bernardino County Museum Association Quarterly, 43(1
San Bernardino County Museum Association Quarterly, 43(1):139-
& 2):5-26.
142.
Shumway, G.L., L. Vredenburgh and R. Hartill, 1980. Desert fever: an
Evans, James R., 1971. Geology and mineral deposits of the Mescal
overview of mining in the California Desert Conservation Area. BLM
Range quadrangle, San Bernardino County, California. California
Contract No. CA_060_CT7_2776.
Division of Mines and Geology map sheet 17, scale 1:62,500.
Spencer, J. E., 1990. Geologic map of the southern Avawatz Mountains,
Gourley, J. R. and R.H. Brady III, 2000. Facies analysis of Neogene
northern Mojave Desert region, San Bernardino County, California.
syntectonic strata in the Soda Mountains, San Bernardino County,
Map MF-2117: scale 1:24,000.
California: implications for constraint on faulting on the Soda-
Sperisen, F. J, 1897. Mineral Resources U. S. United States Geological
Avawatz fault zone. San Bernardino County Museum Association
Survey:504.
Quarterly, 47(2):76.
___, 1938. Gem minerals of California. California Journal of Mines and
Grose, L.T., 1959. Structure and petrology of the northeast part of the
Geology, 34(1):34-74.
Soda Mountains, San Bernardino County, California. Geological
Thompson, D.F., 1978. The geology of the Evening Star tin mine and
Society of America Bulletin, 70:474_510.
surrounding region, San Bernardino County, California. MS Thesis,
Joseph, Steven E., 1984. Mineral land classification of the Mescal Range
University of Missouri_Rolla.
15’ quadrangle, San Bernardino County, California. California Divi-
Tucker, W. B., 1931. Los Angeles Field Division, San Bernardino
sion of Mines and Geology open_file report 84_2. Hafen, L. R. and
County: California Division of Mines, 27(3).
A.W. Hafen, 1998. Journals of forty-niners—Addison Pratt’s diary:94_
Ver Planck, W.E., 1961. History of mining in northeastern San Bernar-
107.
dino County. California Division of Mines, Mineral Information
Harder, E.C., 1997. The Amargosa gold mine. San Bernardino County
Service, 14(9).
Museum Quarterly, 44(2):33-36.
Vredenburgh, Larry M., 1994. Fort Irwin and vicinity: mining history and
___, 2000. The last of the Death Valley prospectors. San Bernardino
development. San Bernardino County Museum Association Special
County Museum Association Quarterly, 47(2): 76-77.
Publication, SP 94-1:
Hensher, A, 1996. Mountain Pass, a modern ghost town. San Bernardino
___, 1995. A brief summary of the history of mining in the East Mojave
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Quarterly, 42(3):83-84.
nardino County Museum Association Quarterly, 47(2):54-55.
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___. 1996a. Early mines of the southern Clark Mountains, northern Mes-
cal Range, and Ivanpah Mountains. San Bernardino County Museum
Association Quarterly, 43(1):67-72.
___. 1996b. Later mining history in the Mescal Range, Ivanpah Moun-
tains and south Clark Mountain. San Bernardino County Museum
Association Quarterly, 43(1):73-76.
___. 1996c. History of mining in the Halloran Hills, Shadow Mountains,
and Silurian Hills. San Bernardino County Museum Association
Quarterly, 43(1):135-138.
Vredenburgh, L. M., G. L. Shumway and R. D. Hartill, 1981. Desert
Fever, an overview of mining in the California desert. Canoga Park,
Living West Press: 324 p.
Weasma, Ted, 2005. Geology and mining activity in the Standard mining
district, San Bernardino County, California. National Association of
Geoscience Teachers, Far Western Section, Spring 2005 field confer-
ence, Zzyzx:81-103.
Wise, W.S., 1989. The mineralogy of the Mohawk Mine, San Bernardino
County, California. San Bernardino County Museum Association
Quarterly, 37(1):1-31.
___, 1996. The Blue Bell claims and the Mohawk Mine: two prolific min-
eral localities in San Bernardino County, California. San Bernardino
County Museum Association Quarterly, 43(1,2):91-94.
Wright, L. A., R. M. Stewart, T. E Gay Jr., and G. C. Hazenbush, 1953,
Mines and mineral deposits of San Bernardino County, California.
California Division of Mines, 49(1,2).
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Basin/Baxter crossing on the Mojave River. Mojave River, south of Razor Road.
I-15 at Baker
Sandy Fulton kayaking on Silver Lake; view south toward Baker. R. Fresh water at Badwater, Death Valley.
Fulton photo.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Placer gold, eroded from its host rock and deposited as in the Panamint Range, Jim Martin picked up a rock
nuggets or flakes in stream-bed gravel, provided the first which was nearly pure silver. Later, when he had arrived
non-native American mineral production in California. in Mariposa, he had the specimen made into a gun sight.
Shortly after the establishment of a Spanish community This discovery has been known as the “Lost Gunsight
at the present site of Yuma, Arizona, placer gold was dis- Mine” ever since.
covered about ten miles to the northeast on the California Shortly after the scattered survivors of the “short cut”
side of the Colorado River at the Potholes. The deposit arrived in the gold country, a man named Turner re-
was worked from 1779 to 1781. (The Yuma Indians wiped turned with a party to search for the source of the gun
out the Spanish community on July 17, 1781.) About this sight’s silver. Turner headed south from Mariposa and
same time placer gold was discovered and worked briefly set out for Death Valley from the ranch of Dr. E. Dar-
in the nearby Cargo Muchacho Mountains. The Potholes win French near Fort Tejon, now in Kern County. This
again began to yield gold following Mexican indepen- expedition returned empty-handed. In September 1850,
dence in 1823. Turner mounted another expedition. This time Dr. French
On the western-most fringe of the Mojave Desert, accompanied the group. This second group also returned
Francisco Lopez, Domingo Bermudez, and Manuel Cota without finding the lost silver ledge.
discovered gold on March 9, 1842 just some 30 miles Meanwhile, Jefferson Hunt led the rest of the party
from downtown Los Angeles and 50 miles from Palmdale south, eventually joining the Old Spanish Trail. Near
in Placerita Canyon. Gold was mined here actively until the south end of Death Valley they came to the resting
1845. point, Salt Spring—the same spring Kit Carson would have
However, these early gold discoveries are simply stopped at a year earlier. Here two men who had been
historical footnotes in comparison to John Marshall’s find in the California gold fields the previous year discovered
on January 24, 1848 on the South Fork of the American placer gold. The gold flakes were traced up a small ravine
River. Marshall made his discovery nine days before the that drained nearby hills. The source of the gold, a quartz
signing of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hildalgo. This treaty vein that contained pea-sized nuggets, was easily found.
called for Mexico to cede 55% of its territory, present- Within months a company was organized to mine gold at
day Arizona, California, New Mexico, Texas, and parts Salt Springs.
of Colorado, Nevada and Utah, in exchange for fifteen Following John Marshall’s discovery, prospectors
million dollars in compensation for war-related damage quickly fanned out to test nearly every river and ravine in
to Mexican property. In May 1848, Kit Carson, acting as the Sierra Nevada. The last of the Sierra Nevada placer
official courier for the U.S. Government, left Los Angeles, gold discoveries occurred on the lower Kern River in May
carrying a dispatch to Washington D.C. announcing the 1854. By January 1855 exaggerated reports of riches at
discovery of gold in California. On the trip east, follow- the “southern mines” began to fill newspapers from San
ing the Old Spanish Trail, he would have naturally have Francisco to Los Angeles. By this time all of the easily
stopped at Salt Springs at the south end of Death Val- recovered placer gold had been mined out further north,
ley. The reports of astoundingly rich placer gold finds and men looking for another chance at easy riches im-
caught the imagination of the entire civilized world. Soon mediately poured into the area. The reports of easy riches
it seemed that everyone was on his way to California to soon proved highly exaggerated, and by April the rush
strike it rich. was over. However, after most of the adventurers had
In October 1849, some 500 gold seekers in 110 gone home, a string of gold discoveries was made in the
wagons, who had arrived too late in the season to safely adjacent mountains. In 1855 and 1856, lode gold was dis-
cross the Sierras, chose to head south guided by Jefferson covered in the Greenhorn Mountains, at Keyesville, and
Hunt – at $10 per wagon. The route from Salt Lake City in Erskine Creek Canyon, and placer gold immediately
approached the gold fields via snow-free southern Califor- south of Tehachapi. The small community of Keyesville
nia. On November 1, near the Utah–Nevada boundary, a was soon established just up from the Kern River, near
group 100 immigrants decided to follow a doubtful map the lode gold mines. A few miles north of Keyesville, the
to cut hundreds of miles off the route. Those that left soon rich Big Blue Mine was discovered in 1861. That same
disintegrated into a number of smaller groups that found year placer and lode gold was found about 15 miles to
themselves lost in the Death Valley country. Somewhere the southeast, high in the Piute Mountains, giving birth to
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the community of Claraville. Ten miles to the northeast lead-silver mines in 1861 were attracting considerable
of Claraville, also in 1861, lode gold discoveries resulted attention. At the same time the gold placers of El Dorado
in the formation of Sageland. In 1864, located little more Canyon (east of present-day Searchlight, Nevada) and La
than 6 miles south of Keyesville, gold was discovered on Paz, Arizona (seven miles north of Ehrenberg) were also
Clear Creek. The adjoining lode discoveries resulted in active. These discoveries drew men either overland from
the establishment of the town of Havilah which, in 1867, the coastal regions of California or up the Colorado River.
became the first county seat of Kern County. Many of During the Civil War the relatively easy transportation
the men who were actively involved with mining in the along Colorado River, rich copper deposits adjacent to the
Southern Sierra between 1855 and the mid-1860s would river, and growing demand and the high price of copper
turn up in mining camps though the Mojave Desert and combined to yield small tonnages of high-grade ore. Dur-
Great Basin. ing this time copper was mined in the Dead Mountains,
Far to the north of the Kern River, about 20 miles east Whipple Mountains, Turtle Mountains, and in Riverside
of the northern shore of Lake Tahoe and just north of the County in the Ironwood Mining District. What little ore
Carson River, prospectors began recovering placer gold that was mined was shipped around the globe to Swansea,
as early as 1852. This small-scale mining continued until Wales for smelting.
spring 1859 when Peter O’Riley and Patrick McLaughlin In the late 1850s, just prior to the outbreak of “Washoe
discovered the top of the Ophir bonanza. Within days fever,” miners were successfully recovering placer gold
they were extracting as much as $1,000 a day in placer north of Mono Lake at the camps of Dogtown and Mon-
gold. In July a local rancher had ore assayed in Grass oville. Then, in July 1859, Waterman “Bill” Body found
Valley from O’Riley and McLaughlin’s discovery that was placer gold some 20 miles east of Dogtown at the location
found to contain $3,000 per ton silver and $876 per ton in that bears the name Bodie. A year later gold was discov-
gold. The “blasted blue stuff” which had fouled gold rock- ered some 16 miles farther to the east, just inside Nevada,
ers since 1852 was found to be high-grade silver ore. With at Aurora. In 1861, lode gold was discovered at Bodie and
this assay, the Comstock Lode had its beginning. Califor- shared the limelight with nearby Aurora. Aurora grew
nia’s gold towns were emptied as thousands poured into rapidly into a town. Many of the houses and stores were
the “Washoe” region. A new rush for riches had begun. built of fine brick. Samuel Clemens worked here briefly
The late-comers, finding the surrounding ground com- in 1862. It was even the seat of Mono County for a short
pletely staked, immediately fanned out into Great Basin time until a boundary survey proved it to be in Nevada.
and eastern California looking for a second Comstock. It boasted two newspapers and a population of several
Fueled by the Lost Gunsight Mine story, prospec- thousand. But more importantly, the inflated value of the
tors began to scour the Death Valley region. Dr. Darwin mining stock, extreme speculation in mining property, and
French decided to give the search another try. In 1860, costly mills that largely stood idle led to a collapse in the
following the Comstock discovery, he led a group of price of mining stock. It began in January 1864 with Au-
about a dozen prospectors from Oroville and Sacramento rora’s Wide West Mine, but soon spread to all the mining
in a search for the lost ledge of silver. While the expedi- stock associated with Aurora and ultimately the Comstock
tion failed to find the source of the gun sight silver, they mines as well. At the time the mines of the Comstock
did find rich silver ore in the Coso Range. One member were themselves struggling, and would until the discovery
of the French party was Dennis Searles. He returned with of bonanza ore in 1871.
his brother John not long later. Together the brothers As mining capital dried up in the mid-1860s, most
found gold and silver mineralization in the Slate Range. of the mines within the California desert region were
By the fall of 1860 there were hundreds of prospectors deserted. An outbreak of Indian hostilities at this time
in the area. By early 1861 the Telescope Mining District also contributed. One bright spot in the region during this
had been established in the Panamint Mountains, and the time occurred in 1865 high in the Inyo Mountains with
Washington District in the Amargosa Range on the east the discovery of the Cerro Gordo Mine. The first wagon
side of Death Valley. In the early 1860s mineral discover- of silver bullion from this mine arrived in Los Angeles in
ies in the desert of southeastern California came in quick June 1868 for shipment to Selby Smelter in San Francisco
succession. At the base of the mountains at the eastern (which had been erected in 1867). Regular shipments
edge of the Owens Valley several gold discoveries were began arriving in Los Angeles in December 1868 and
made in the 1860s. From south to north these were Bend continued until the summer 1872. At that time the bullion
City (1863), San Carlos (1862), and Owensville. In 1863 was hauled over Tehachapi Pass to the Southern Pacific
the Kersarge Mine was discovered high on the crest of the railhead near Visalia. However, this arrangement proved a
Sierra Nevada west of Independence. To the south, gold disaster, and again in June 1873, Los Angeles became the
and silver was also found in the El Paso Mountains. recipient of Cerro Gordo’s output. The flow of silver-lead
In the East Mojave silver ore was found in 1863 es- bullion continued through Los Angeles until April 1875
sentially right beside the route of the Government Road in when the bullion route was again shifted over Tehachapi
Macedonia Canyon in the northern Providence Moun- pass to the railhead of the Southern Pacific Railroad at
tains. Located just 15 miles inside Nevada, the Potosi Caliente, located at the base of the pass. In late July 1875
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the 1870s and 1880s. Rich gold was discovered in the un- River. The destination was reached April 19, 1883. At
derground workings in 1872, reviving the mine. By 1888 the same time the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad had been
more than $18 million was produced. The gold mines of building westward from New Mexico. It reached the Ari-
the Cargo Muchacho Mountains and at Picacho in Impe- zona bank of the river a month after the Southern Pacific.
rial County were also exceptions. In 1877, with the arrival On August 8 the A&P completed a bridge across the
of the Southern Pacific Railroad in the area, the mines river. The Southern Pacific built its line to halt the A&P’s
here began to be worked. advance into SP’s lucrative California markets. However,
Gold reigned as king with the loss of silver price A&P stood ready to make good on its threat to build a
supports in 1893. As if on cue, several important gold parallel line into California. This would have rendered
deposits were discovered. These included Vanderbilt the newly built Southern Pacific line redundant and of
(1893), Red Rock Canyon (1894), the Summit Diggings no economic value, and as a result the Southern Pacific
(1894), the Yellow Aster Mine (1895), the Mojave Mining agreed to sell the new line. On October 1, 1884 the A&P
District (1894), the Ratcliffe Mine in the Panamint Range paid about $7 million for the rail line to Mojave. In alli-
(1897) and the Bagdad-Chase Mine (1901). Mining revived ance with the Atlantic and Pacific, the California Southern
at Picacho, in the Cargo Muchacho Mountains, and many Railroad was built from San Bernardino over Cajon Pass
other older districts. to Barstow where it connected to the A&P in November
In June 1903 a standard gauge railroad, the Ludlow 1885. (After 1893, the Atlantic and Pacific was known as
and Southern, was completed from Ludlow to the Bagdad- the Santa Fe.) The mines at Oro Grande, especially the
Chase Mine. Ore was shipped to the Randsburg-Santa limestone quarries for cement, immediately benefited from
Fe Reduction Company’s 50-stamp mill at Barstow for the improved transportation.
processing. This mine was to become one of the premier Daggett was by far the most important source of reve-
producers in the entire desert. The Yellow Aster Mine at nue along the new line between Mojave and Needles. The
Randsburg was another major producer. In November mining activity at Calico was in full swing. In addition,
1897 the 28 mile long Randsburg Railroad was construct- Daggett became an important receiving point from desert
ed north from Kramer on the Santa Fe to Johannesburg mines. Between 1882 and 1883 borax ore was hauled from
near the mines. the Eagle Borax Works in Death Valley to Daggett. Borax
In addition to economic considerations that favored was also hauled from William Coleman’s Amargosa Borax
gold, there were several technical innovations. Foremost Works located at Shoshone. In 1890 the borax deposit at
was the introduction of cyanide to recover gold. In 1890 Borate, located just east of the silver camp of Calico, was
John MacArthur and Robert and William Forrest of developed. In 1898 an eleven-mile railroad was built from
Glasgow, Scotland introduced the cyanide process to the the deposit to Daggett.
Witwatersrand gold mines in South Africa. The process With depletion of the borax deposit at Borate and the
was found to extract 96 percent of gold from the ore. This discovery of borax southeast of Furnace Creek Ranch in
enabled recovery rates unimagined with mercury amalga- Death Valley, Francis Marion “Borax” Smith was looking
mation alone. The use of cyanide breathed new life into for a transportation solution that didn’t involve mules. In
many older gold districts. Bodie, whose production by his first attempt, a road was graded from the California
then had slumped, became one of the first mines in the Eastern Railroad terminus at Ivanpah to the Lila C. Mine.
United States to utilize cyanide. Soon its use became the In the April 1904 inaugural run, a steam powered trac-
industry standard. Also, men with portable cyanide plants tor pulled a “train” of open ore cars 14 miles, then quit
reworked old mill tailings. operating. Smith concluded constructing a railroad was
After the Southern Pacific Railroad reached Mojave in the only alternative. On July 19, 1904 the Tonopah and
1875, the line was pushed into Los Angeles, then south Tidewater Railroad was incorporated. The first rails were
through the Coachella Valley. In May 1877, the line laid in November 1905 from Ludlow on the Santa Fe; by
crossed the Colorado River at Yuma. The railroad had June 1907 the rails had finally reached Zabriski, north of
an immediate impact on the mining industry. Silver-lead the Amargosa River gorge, near Shoshone. Briefly ore was
ore was hauled from Darwin, Lookout, and Panamint teamed from the Lila C. Mine to the railhead. The line
City to the new railhead at Mojave. Borax ore, which had reached the mine on August 16, 1907, and was completed
been shipped from Searles Lake to San Pedro since 1873, on October 30, 1907 to Gold Center, just south of Beatty,
was now only hauled 80 miles. Beginning in the winter Nevada. When the Lila C. Mine became exhausted,
of 1882, and continuing for the next six years, William operations were moved twelve-miles to the northwest
Coleman hauled borax from the Harmony Borax Works to the Biddy McCarty Mine. The Death Valley narrow
in Death Valley to Mojave in the world-famous “twenty- gauge railroad was constructed to connect the mines with
mule teams.” The Bonanza King Mine located far out in the Tonopah and Tidewater. This line was completed on
the east Mojave Desert had its mill delivered in July 1882 December 1, 1914.
from Mojave. Just a year earlier, in 1913, John Suckow, drilling for
The Southern Pacific began construction at Mojave in water on his homestead claim, at a depth of 40 feet discov-
February 1882 of a new line to Needles, on the Colorado ered the largest borax deposit in the world, scarcely three
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
embargo of potash fertilizer during World War I sharply deposits have been mined in California. But it is the huge
raised potash prices, creating a rush of activity at Searles deposits of salines, borax, gypsum, and limestone that will
Lake—the only American source of potash at the time. continue to be mined for many dozens of decades yet in
With the decline of prices at the end of the war, potash the future, providing the nation and the world some of the
was no longer economically recoverable. However the basics of every-day life.
deposit continues to produce a host of products from the
lake brine. Bibliography
Between 1905 and 1910 the Santa Fe constructed a Clark, William B, 1980, Gold Districts of California. California Division of
line from Phoenix, Arizona, crossed the Colorado River Mines and Geology, Bulletin 193.
Hensher, Alan and Larry Vredenburgh, 1986, Ghost Towns of the Upper
at Parker, and then continued north to the main line at Mojave Desert, Volume I: San Bernardino County (typescript).
Cadiz. On August 9, 1916 a branch line was completed Hensher, Alan and Larry Vredenburgh, 1991, Ghost Town of the Mojave
to Blythe. In 1925 limestone mining began at Chubbuck Desert, A Concise and Illustrated Guide. Los Angeles: California Clas-
midway between Cadiz and Rice. A short narrow gauge sics Books.
Hensher, Alan, and Larry M. Vredenburgh, 1997, The Early History of
railroad was constructed from the mines to the kiln lo- the Resting Springs Mining District in Robert E. Reynolds and Jennifer
cated along the railroad. Also in 1925, mining operations Reynolds (eds.) Death Valley the Amargosa Route, San Bernardino
began at the large gypsum deposit at Midland, situated County Museum Association Quartly Vol 44 (2).
north of Blythe two miles west of the railroad. Lingenfelter, Richard E., 1986, Death Valley and the Amargosa, a Land of
Illusion. Los Angles: University of California Press.
In 1910 a nine-mile long rail line was constructed from McAfee, Ward, 1973, California’s Railroad Era 1850-1911, San Marino:
Tecopa, on the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad, to the Golden West Books.
Noonday and Gunsite lead-silver mines. The mines oper- Morton, Paul K, 1977, Geology and Mineral Resources of Imperial County,
ated until 1918. Many other mines were able to operate California, California Division of Mines and Geology County Report
7.
economically along the T&T’s route as well, due to the Myrick, David F., 1963, Railroads of Nevada and Eastern California.
cheap transportation it afforded. Berkeley: Howell North Books.
In April, 1918 Congress passed the Pittman Silver Act. Nadeau, Remi, 1965, City Makers. Los Angeles:Trans Anglo Books
Under provisions of this law the United States purchased Nadeau, Remi, 1972, Ghost Towns and Mining Camps of California. Los
Angeles: Ward Ritchie Press.
about $260 million dollars worth of silver at $1.00 an Paher, Stanley W., 1970, Nevada Ghost Towns and Mining Camps, San
ounce. This silver was used to coin silver dollars. As Diego: Howell-North Books.
a result there was renewed mining at Calico, but most Paher, Stanley W., 1973, Death Valley Ghost Towns. Las Vegas: Nevada
importantly, the well timed discovery of the Kelley-Rand Publications.
Paher, Stanley W. and Robert L. Spude, 1976, Colorado River Ghost
silver mine in 1919 soon became the largest silver produc- Towns, Las Vegas: Nevada Publications.
er in the state. This deposit was discovered right beside Paul, Rodman Wilson, 1974, Mining Frontiers of the Far West 1848-
the road that is now U.S. Highway 395 in an area that had 1880. Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press.
been intensely prospected since 1895. Troxel, Bennie w. and Paul K Morton, 1962, Mines and Mineral Resources
of Kern County, California, California Division of Mines and Geology
By the end of World War I the frontier was gone. Ac- County Report 1.
curate maps had existed for decades. Roads and railroads Vredenburgh, Larry M, Shumway, Gary L, and Russell D. Hartill, 1981,
crisscrossed the desert. The Automobile Club of South- Desert Fever, Canoga Park: Living West Press.
ern California placed road signs through out the desert. Vredenburgh, Larry M., 1996, Early Mines of Southern Clark Mountain,
the Northern Mescal Range and the Ivanpah Mountains, in Robert E.
Soon dirt roads would be replaced by pavement. Truck Reynolds and Jennifer Reynolds (eds.) Punctuated Chaos, in the
transportation would replace rail for many operations. Northeastern Mojave Desert, San Bernardino County Museum As-
Electrical lines already served the largest operations. High- sociation Quarterly Vol. 43 nos. 1 and 2, pp. 67-72,
volume low-grade operations were replacing the high- Wright, Lauren A. (editor), 1957, Mineral Commodities of California,
California Division Mines Bulletin 176.
grade deposits that led to the discoveries in the first place.
During the 1920s, inflation and the fixed price of gold
put a damper on mining. Increasingly industrial minerals
would play a more important role in the mining mix. Dur-
ing the 1930s the price of copper bottomed out, however
the increase of the fixed price of gold in 1933 stimulated
gold mining for a while. But by government order gold
mining was shut down during World War II in order to
concentrate on the mining of strategic minerals such as
iron, tungsten, copper, and lead. After the war, gold min-
ing did not recover. Again, inflation and fixed gold prices
were the primary reason. In 1968 the price of gold was
no longer fixed. The high price of gold coupled with new
innovations in the fields of exploration, mining, and re-
covery led to a new gold rush through the western United
States. During the last few decades, large low-grade gold
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
ing the hotel, the largest structure in town. (These might only a hand windlass in 1871. John McFarlane’s house,
have been tents.) office, and sleeping quarters, which contained several
The mines were on Mineral Hill (also called Alaska berths, consisted of a very large tent where he had several
Hill), eight or nine miles northwest of the town. The mineral cabinets that held more than 200 specimens.
most promising properties were the Hite & Chatfield Since the mines were dry, Indians were employed to haul
claim (later renamed the Lizzie Bullock) and the Monitor water by pack train from Ivanpah Spring. Mexicans were
and Beatrice, owned by the McFarlane brothers—Tom, employed to work the ore in arrastres, or circular stone
Andrew, John, and William. The work force included mills. They received $125 a ton, which meant that lower
Indians, Mexicans, and Anglos; among them were several grades of ore, worth at least $150 a ton, had to be left on
pioneers of the Kern River mines: Dennis Searles, Wil- the dump. Even so, the firm of Hite & Chatfield earned a
liam A. Marsh, and the McFarlane brothers. (Six miles $20,000 profit in 1872. Teamsters arrived from San Bernar-
southwest of Ivanpah was the Copper World claim, which dino with supplies and returned with heavy loads of ore.
would remain unworked for three decades.) During six months in 1873, the mercantile firm of Brunn
The original operations were primitive. The Beatrice & Roe forwarded $57,000 worth of ore to San Francisco.
Mine No. 2, owned by the McFarlanes, was equipped with With returns like those, the mine owners could af-
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pleted in early 1905, the line passed within a few miles and a partner, Simon A. Barrett, had extracted a large lot
of Ivanpah station. The post office was moved to nearby of ore worth $100 a ton in silver and gold. They shipped
Leastalk, a station at the junction of the Salt Lake line their ore by pack train to Ivanpah, where the Ivanpah
and California Eastern. The Copper World reopened in Consolidated mill processed it in June of 1885. A few
1906; it produced 487,000 pounds of matte in 1907 alone. weeks later, Wells, Fargo & Company carried away the
But the matte was shipped through Cima, another station first bullion: two bars worth more than $2,000.
on the Salt Lake line. The operation was large enough to Mescal entered its most productive period after
warrant the formation of a local of the Western Federation McFarlane and Barrett leased out, and then sold, the
of Miners. When the Copper World shut down again, the Cambria to a company of businessmen in Los Angeles
California Eastern abandoned its station at Ivanpah. Four in January, 1886. A 10-man crew drove a second tunnel
or five buildings, all of them vacant, were burned in April, and laid a 350-yard ore-car track. (Eventually, two 300-foot
1908, supposedly by tramps—the usual suspects. tunnels were driven.) By late 1886, the camp contained
World War I drove up the price of copper (and other an assay office, comfortable offices, a boardinghouse, a
metals). The Copper World was reopened in 1916, a large lodging house, adobe houses for men with families, and
blast furnace was later built, and the work force rose from other buildings. The company also built a five-stamp mill
six to 60. A tractor hauled the matte to Cima. But when near Mescal Springs. The machinery started up in early
the war ended in November 1918, metal prices declined, December. In January of 1887, the mill produced 15,000
and the Copper World was shut down for the last time. ounces of bullion; the company soon added five stamps.
The California Eastern tore up its tracks in 1921. Several A post office named Nantan was established in March. By
years later, Leastalk was renamed South Ivanpah, which then, the camp had a store.
was soon shortened to Ivanpah. The post office remained That was Mescal’s heyday. The price of silver gradually
open until 1966. slipped; the value of the ore fell to only $20 a ton. Only
12 people remained in 1890; in December, the post office
Mescal closed. The mine had produced an estimated $250,000 in
Six miles south of Ivanpah, near Mountain Pass, was gold and silver.
the Mescal Mine (also known as the Cambria or Mollusk),
which was discovered about 1879. William A. McFarlane, Providence
one of the pioneers of Ivanpah, bought the property sev- Along the steep slopes of the Providence Mountains,
eral years later and began developing it. By early 1885, he south of the Clark Mining District, parties of prospec-
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
tors from Ivanpah found extremely rich silver ore during Meanwhile, the price of silver continued to slip. After
the spring of 1880. Some of the rock assayed as much paying dividends through early 1885, the Bonanza King
as $5,000 a ton. The richest claim turned out to be the suspended work in March. When the company reopened
Bonanza King, which was sold to Jonas B. Osborne, H. L. the mine a week later, it hired 15 men—at $3 a day—and
Drew, J. D. Boyer, and Charley Hassen, all of whom had hired others as fast as they could apply: 40 men in the
some knowledge of mining. mine and 35 in the mill when it started up several months
Though a rich vein was found in early 1882, the own- later. The shipments of bullion averaged $60,000 a month.
ers of the Bonanza King sold their interests to the Bonanza But in late July, the mill burned. The company discharged
King Consolidated Mining & Milling Company of New most of its workers. Although it cleared away the debris,
York. The owners were Wilson Waddingham and Thom- the Bonanza King never rebuilt its mill. Finally, assured
as Ewing, who had recently swindled investors in a mine that the coinage of silver would continue, the company
in Colorado. They put at least 100 men to work round reopened the mine in early 1886. Rich assays encouraged
the clock developing the mine. The company erected Waddingham and Ewing to keep at least 20 men at work,
a 10-stamp mill at a spring on Juan Domingo’s ranch, a but it seems that they shut the operation down about
mile and a half from Providence. (The milling camp was then. At the nearby Kerr and Patton property, however,
known as Crow Town.) The mill started up on January Godfrey Bahten, a widely traveled mining man, built a
1, 1883. During its first six months, the mill produced five-stamp mill that started up in January of 1887. The
$573,376 in bullion, according to mint reports. The com- Kerr and Patton claim was worked until at least 1890; it
pany then put its stock on the New York mining exchange reportedly paid good dividends. As a sop to mine owners
and began paying regular dividends. By early 1885, the and impoverished farmers, Congress passed the Sherman
main shaft of the Bonanza King reached 800 feet; the ore Silver-Purchase Act. The measure pushed up the price of
was worth as much as $100/ton in gold and silver. About silver to $1.05 an ounce. But it was only a token measure,
100 men worked at the mine and mill then. The company and the price dropped to its earlier level. The post office
spent $20,000 on wages and supplies each month, whereas was discontinued in May of 1892, although a store or
the operation was producing at least $35,000 a month. By saloon remained in business at least into 1893.
then, the mill had produced $1,500,000 in bullion. Providence experienced several revivals. The Trojan
Meanwhile, Providence thrived. A post office was Mining Company built a gasoline-powered, 10-stamp mill
established in June of 1882, and in October the county and worked the Bonanza King Mine from 1906 through
supervisors created an election precinct. By early 1883 the September of 1907, but the stock market crashed a few
camp had 300 residents. The business district contained weeks later. Meanwhile, Thomas Ewing had returned
the post office, several mining-company offices, two gen-
eral stores, two hotels (with
livery stables), a saloon, a
contractor, a blacksmith
and wagon maker, a deputy
sheriff, and a United States
mineral surveyor. Many of
the buildings were made
of a distinctive, locally
quarried volcanic ash called
tuff. The business district
soon shrank, though: by
early 1885, the only lodging
available was a mattress on
a store counter.
Waddingham and Ewing
paid their men promptly,
but they weren’t espe-
cially generous. The miners
received $3.50 a day;
board cost $8 a week. The
company would fire any
man found drunk. A fore-
man and a shift boss were
accused of working the men
more “than their health
and strength will permit.” The Bonanza King mill in 1905.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
from Arizona and set up a small camp, where a short-lived office opened in late April 1893. It was named after Allen
voting precinct was established in May of 1908. In 1915, Manvel, the late president of the Santa Fé Railway. Sev-
the Hall-Rawister & Company of Massachusetts rebuilt the eral businesses (probably housed in tents) opened about
mill, reopened the mine, and hired 30 men; work went May. In early September, C. K. Dixon received a license
on round the clock. The presence of five families gave to operate a saloon there.
the place “a more charming appearance.” The company A camp also arose at the Sagamore, where 80 men
installed an electric-light plant, a water line, gasoline worked in early 1893. E. H. Leibey kept a grocery store
engines, and the most modern hoisting and milling equip- there. H. Ramsey moved his business from Providence to
ment. Two trucks made daily trips to Fenner. During the the Sagamore where, in early September, he received a
next few years, the company reopened several shafts, as liquor license, probably for a store. Leibey soon moved.
far as 800 feet, and was taking out very rich ore. But when The onset of a long depression forced the Nevada
World War I ended, the price of silver again declined, to Southern to halt most work in June of 1893, but the
$1.01. The company suspended work in July of 1920. construction of a grade over the New York Mountains
continued. About five miles beyond Purdy, the railroad
Manvel founded another camp. It was named Summit and stood
By the late 1880s, discoveries were being made on a juniper-covered mesa at 4,800 feet. In early June, the
throughout the eastern Mojave Desert. Among the most county supervisors granted licenses for two saloons; Virgil
promising places were the Montgomery and Yellow Pine W. Earp owned one of them. Scheduled trains began
districts. In the Yellow Pine district, about 40 miles north running there about August, when the businesses of Purdy
of the New York Mountains, Samuel S. Godbe was open- were moved to Summit. The camp supported one store,
ing up a silver-lead deposit. owned by R. J. Halsey. In early October the Manvel post
Isaac G. Blake, a mining magnate in Denver, was espe- office, which had been suspended for two weeks, was re-
cially interested in the Sagamore Mine, a deposit of lead, established at Summit; the postmaster was E. H. Leibey,
silver, copper, and zinc in the New York Mountains, just who had moved his business from the Sagamore.
inside California. He also liked the potential of the Yellow Manvel served as the nearest railhead for several
Pine Mining District, which contained veins of silver, lead, widely scattered mining camps, including Vanderbilt,
and gold. In December of 1892, Blake began work on a Goodsprings, Crescent, and Montgomery. A shipment
branch line from Goffs: the Nevada Southern Railway. to the Montgomery mines, 125 miles northwest, for
(Goffs would be renamed Blake in 1894.) Most of the example, totaled 25 tons. The trade increased in the late
route passed over a gently sloping plain. In late February 1890s, when the Copper World Mine was opened up and
1893, the grade reached the foot of the New York Moun- gold was discovered 20 miles to the east at what became
tains 25 miles north of Goffs. Searchlight, Nevada. By early 1898, Manvel supported a
A construction camp named Purdy, after Warren G. flour, grain, and lumber dealer, a general store, a hotel,
Purdy, one of Blake’s partners, was built there. A post a blacksmith, the post office, and a stage line running to
Montgomery. A school
district was organized in
January 1900. In early 1902,
the Nevada Southern com-
pleted a 15-mile extension
into the Ivanpah Valley,
to serve as the shipping
point for the Copper World
Mine. The railhead was
named Ivanpah. (Several
months later, the Santa Fé
Railway bought the Nevada
Southern and renamed
it the California Eastern
Railway.) At Searchlight,
meanwhile, the production
steadily increased.
As the main shipping
point for Searchlight,
Manvel was busy. The
town contained a depot and
telegraph office, a freight-
Providence in 1984. Larry Vredenburgh photograph. forwarding house, and
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an agency of Wells, Fargo & Company. The increased A strike made by Taggart in the fall of 1892 finally set
business at the post office made it eligible to sell money off a rush. Allan G. Campbell, a Salt Lake City investor,
orders. The Brown-Gosney Company’s store transacted joined Beatty in developing the Boomerang property;
several thousand dollars worth of business a day. T. A. they even sank a 100-foot shaft. Two former lords of the
Brown, the co-founder of the store, organized a telephone Comstock lode, John L. Mackay and J. L. Flood, studied
system, started several freight lines and a stage line, and other nearby properties. By January of 1893, 150 people
opened branches in several nearby camps and towns. were living at Vanderbilt camp, which contained 50 tents,
(To prevent confusion with a town in Texas, Manvel was two stores, one saloon (unlicensed), three restaurants, a
renamed Barnwell in early 1907.) lodging house, a blacksmith shop, and a stable. A stage
As long as Manvel remained the only railhead in that arrived three times a week from Goffs. A post office was
region, its importance remained secure. But in early 1902, established in February 1893, although at first all the
the railroad extended its line into the Ivanpah Valley, businesses except one were housed in tents. In May, the
where it established a shipping point for the Copper county supervisors appointed W. A. Nash justice of the
World Mine. Then, in early 1905, the San Pedro, Los peace, which also made him a deputy coroner, and grant-
Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad was completed. The line ed four liquor licenses. When rail service to Manvel began
passed only 20 miles from Searchlight and 15 miles from about August, a stage brought passengers the remaining
the Copper World Mine. The management of the Santa five miles to Vanderbilt. Meanwhile, Nash established a
Fé opposed building lines into mining districts. But in ear- weekly newspaper, the Nugget, although it lasted only two
ly 1907, the company finally completed a 23-mile exten- or three issues. Then, in early December, Ben C. Jor-
sion to Searchlight, the Barnwell & Searchlight Railway— dan, a young correspondent for the Los Angeles Evening
just as Searchlight’s production plunged. A depression Express, began issuing a weekly newspaper, the Shaft. The
followed in October. In Manvel, blue pieces of scrip were county supervisors established a voting precinct in January
introduced as money; families began to drift away. Several of 1894 and belatedly organized a school district in April.
miles away, in the Castle Mountains, Hart boomed in With an estimated population of 400, Vanderbilt
early 1908, but the shipping point was established at Hitt, probably reached its peak in 1894. The business district
a siding and freight house on the Barnwell & Searchlight. contained three saloons (including one owned by Virgil
That September, a fire destroyed most of Barnwell’s busi- Earp), two barbers, a Chinese restaurant and two other
ness district, including the depot and the Brown-Gosney eating houses, two meat markets, a stationery and fruit
Company’s store. The company, which had moved its store, one lodging house, two blacksmiths, and three
headquarters to Searchlight, closed its store in Barnwell in well-stocked general stores. William McFarlane, one of the
February, 1910. Another fire followed in May. The pro- pioneers of Ivanpah, owned an interest in one of them,
duction at Searchlight fell to $23,000 in 1911. T. A. Brown in which he ran the post office, and owned a drugstore,
moved his family away in 1912. The railroad closed its which Dr. E. A. Tuttle managed.
agency in 1914; the post office was discontinued in April, Ten-stamp mills started up at the Gold Bronze and
1915; and the school district was abolished about 1918. All Boomerang mines in March of 1894. The mills used a
train service was discontinued in late 1923, and the rails design from Gilpin County, Colorado, where 1,850-pound
were torn up. stamps would laboriously drop from 25 to 30 times a
minute to crush the typically undecomposed granite of the
Vanderbilt Rocky Mountains. The owners, after all, owned proper-
During the 1890s, as the price of silver was allowed ties in Colorado and Utah. The typical mills in California,
to decline, gold became the preferred metal. In January, however, were designed to crush decomposed rock, using
1891, an Indian named Robert Black struck gold ore in 850-pound stamps, which rose and fell 60 times a minute.
the New York Mountains, about 40 miles north of Goffs (At Ibex Tank, 20 miles west of Needles, a well was sunk
on the Santa Fé Railway. An assay made at Providence and a 10-stamp mill started up in May, 1894. It had a
yielded considerable gold. To protect his interests, Black short-lived post office, named Klinefelter.)
brought in a trusted rancher, M. M. Beatty, the namesake As the mines were pushed deeper, accidents became
of the town near Death Valley, to file a claim. Two mining a problem. The first death occurred when a young miner
men from Providence, Richard C. Hall and Samuel King, was blown up by a powder explosion in the Boomerang,
then hurried in and located several veins, which became in May 1894. He was buried that afternoon. The next
the Gold Bronze Mine. Two other miners from Provi- month, a miner fell down a shaft in the Gold Bronze after
dence, Joseph P. Taggart and James H. Patton, joined his candle was blown out. All of the mines and businesses
Hall and King in June of 1891. The four men sank several closed during the afternoon of the funeral.
shafts and took out a few tons of rich gold and silver ore. The end of 1894, when about 100 men were working at
A camp soon arose at Vanderbilt Spring in a cove-like the mines, marked the end of the boom. The Gold Bronze
gully in the side of a hill. Within a short walk were copi- produced $47,000 during its first two years. Its shaft
ous springs and abundant piñons, which made excellent eventually reached 260 feet. The shaft of the Boomerang,
fuel. which reached nearly 500 feet, once employed 50 men.
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Hart
The fall of 1907 was a poor time for mining. A short
but severe depression began in October. Banks and min-
The Oro Belle No. 1 in Hart.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
alized. After intermittent production, both the Oro Belle that turned out 5,400 pounds of copper in 1907.
and Big Chief shut down in 1913, and the union local By June 1909, the camp had grown to 20 buildings, in-
was disbanded. A company in Tonopah, Nevada, worked cluding the store, a boardinghouse, a rooming house, and
the Oro Belle for a while, but that was the last hurrah. cabins. The main shaft had reached 317 feet and 17,000
The post office closed in December of 1915. Up to early gallons of water a day were flowing through the pipeline.
1919, the mill, three furnished saloons, hotels, restaurants, Cram also developed an “electro-chemical” system that,
laundry, the office of the Enterprise, and many houses still he said, could extract gold and copper from the ore. The
stood. equipment was housed in a 96x100-foot building.
In 1911, Cram kicked off his final promotional cam-
Vontrigger paign. The electrochemical plant, he claimed, was
Small-scale mining began in the Vontrigger Hills dur- leaching out copper ore “on a commercial scale.” A fully
ing the 1890s, but larger operations appeared after 1904. equipped roller mill with cyanide tanks started up about
One operator, the Pentagon Mining Company, founded a June. Cram visited Goldfield, Nevada several times to buy
camp about six miles north of Blake (Goffs); it comprised additional equipment. In fact, he produced 4,000 pounds
an assay office, bunkhouse, and shafthouse. Nine miles of copper that year. The operation probably shut down
north of Blake was the California Mine. Its owner was after 1911.
Albert H. Cram, a prominent mining-stock promoter in Meanwhile, a settlement arose two miles away at Von-
Riverside. trigger, a siding on the California Easter Railway. A post
Cram’s promotional activities were somewhat dubious, office was established there in May 1907. In late 1908,
but he carried out a great deal of development. Organiz- Vontrigger consisted of a water tank, a loading platform,
ing the California Gold & Copper Company, Cram sank and a combination store, post office, and restaurant. A
three deep shafts and installed modern equipment. By the monument made of copper ore greeted travelers. The post
summer of 1906, Cram had 25 men at work. In 1907, he office closed in October, 1913. All that remained in 1917
built a large camp, which contained a barn, a well-stocked was the side track.
store, and a reservoir, and laid a nine-mile pipeline to Another camp, also called Vontrigger, grew up at the
Hackberry Springs. By then, about 40 men were em- Getchell Mine, several miles to the west in the Hackberry
ployed. In October, Cram began work on a leaching plant Mountains. By May 1925, the camp contained a store,
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restaurant, cold-drink resort, and 30 tents, and others were pp. 53-54.
rising “every other day.” A 30-room hotel was reportedly Richard Lingenfelter described the problems of the
under construction. The work probably was suspended Ivanpah Consolidated in The Hardrock Miners: A History of
about then. the Mining Labor Movement in the American West, 1863–
1893 (Berkeley, 1974). D. F. Hewett studied the district
Bibliographical Essay in the 1920s: Geology and Mineral Resources of the Ivanpah
Introduction Quadrangle, California and Nevada (United States Geologi-
Larry Vredenburgh, Alan Patera, and Phil Serpico cal Survey, Professional Paper 275, 1956).
have provided important information. Several visitors described the camp at several stages of
Two books offer the most extensive coverage of mining its life: “Jottings by the Way En Route to Ivanpah, Clark
in the Mojave Desert: Larry Vredenburgh, Gary Shum- District,” San Bernardino Guardian, Sept. 30, 1871; Fred-
way, and Russell Hartill, Desert Fever: An Overview of erick Dellenbaugh, “Record of a Sketching Tour to N.
Mining in the California Desert (Canoga Park, 1981), and Arizona & S. Utah, 1875-1876,” (extract from diary in the
volume 2 of David Myrick’s Railroads of Nevada and East- Arizona Historical Society); William Vale, “Log of Trip to
ern California (Berkeley: Howell-North Books, 1963). Ivanpah & Resting Springs” (typescript copy in California
The material on the post offices appears in Walter N. Room, San Bernardino Public Library); Frank Williams,
Frickstad, A Century of California Post Offices, 1848 to autobiography (typescript, Special Collections Depart-
1955 (Oakland, 1955), and H. A. Salley, History of Cali- ment, University of Nevada, Las Vegas).
fornia Post Offices, 1849–1876 (La Mesa, Cal., 1977). The only references to Ivanpah’s newspaper appear in
The San Bernardino County of Supervisors created two articles by Karl Shutka, both of them in the Journal
and abolished voting precincts, court districts, and road of the West: “‘Humbug Bill’ Frazee and the ‘Green-Eyed
districts; granted liquor licenses; approved townsites; Monster,’” October, 1962 (v. 1), pp. 215–218, and “‘Hum-
appointed justices of the peace and constables; and held bug Bill’ Frazee: His ‘Canteen Fish’ and Other Tall Tales,”
elections and certified the results. Their actions appear in July, 1964 (v. 3), pp. 369–374. Frazee and his partner are
their minutes (also called records), which are available in listed as registered voters.
the county archives. The most important sources were the broken files of
The statistics on the school districts appear in the the Colton Semi-Tropic, 1877–1880, and the following
annual reports of the county superintendent of schools. newspapers in San Bernardino: the Guardian, 1870–1874;
Few counties kept them. I used the official copies in the Weekly Argus, 1876–77; Weekly Times, 1876, 1878–1879;
California State Archives in Sacramento. and Valley Index (also called the Weekly Index), 1876,
The most important periodicals were the Mining & 1880–1881. Two articles appeared in the Mining & Scien-
Scientific Press, published in San Francisco from 1860 to tific Press in 1887.
1922, and the Los Angeles Mining Review, of which bro- Information on the Copper World appears in The
ken files exist from 1901 to 1913. Copper Handbook . . . (Houghton, Michigan, 1903), com-
piled by Horace Stevens; and Lewis Aubury, The Copper
Ivanpah Resources of California (California State Mining Bureau,
This chapter is based on an article that I wrote: Bulletin 23, 1902), which was revised as Bulletin 50 (1908);
“Ivanpah—Pioneer Mojave Desert Town,” Heritage Tales and John Ervin Brinley, Jr.: “The Western Federation of
(City of San Bernardino Historical and Pioneer Society, Miners” (dissertation, University of Utah, 1972), listed the
Annual 7), 1984, pp. 36-58. local of the miners’ union. Some news appeared in the
Larry Vredenburgh wrote a 14-page account in Desert Redlands Citrograph, 1898–1899. The Needles Eye and
Fever: An Overview of Mining in the California Desert (Ca- Searchlight Bulletin, 1908, reported on the fire at Ivanpah
noga Park, 1981). station.
The Piute Company of California and Nevada (San
Francisco, 1870) is a promotional booklet that contains Mescal
several lithographs of the area. Also of interest is a short The Calico Print was the main source of news. Few
biography by Roman Malach, Adventurer John Moss . . . issues exist, but the Mining & Scientific Press reprinted its
(Kingman, 1977). articles, 1885–1887. D. F. Hewett visited the Mescal Mine
Several writers profiled the McFarlane brothers: Il- (then known as the Cambria) in the 1920s: Geology and
lustrated History of Southern California (Chicago, 1890); Mineral Resources of the Ivanpah Quadrangle, California
J. M. Guinn, A History of California . . . (Los Angeles, and Nevada (United States Geological Survey, Professional
1907); and Fred Holladay, Odyssey, March, 1979. (Odyssey Paper 275, 1956).
is the bulletin of the City of San Bernardino Historical and
Pioneer Society.) Providence
A member of George M. Wheeler’s survey visited the The most detailed study is Larry Vredenburgh, Gary
district: Annual Report Upon the Geographical Surveys West Shumway, and Russell Hartill, Desert Fever: An Overview of
Of The One Hundredth Meridian . . . (Washington, 1876), Mining in the California Desert (Canoga Park, 1981).
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
William B. Vickers and others profiled Wilson Wad- A brief history appears in Ronald Dean Miller, Mines
dingham and Thomas Ewing: History of the Arkansas of the Mojave (Glendale, 1976). L. Burr Belden wrote a
Valley, Colorado (Chicago, 1881). But they proved to be concise account, “Hart, Gold Camp On Nevada Line,
swindlers, as Stanley Dempsey and James E. Fell show: Folded in 1918,” San Bernardino Sun-Telegram, September
Mining the Summit, Colorado’s Ten Mile District, 1860– 30, 1956.
1960 (Norman, Oklahoma, 1986). Extensive coverage appeared in the Searchlight Bul-
The main source of news was the Calico Print, which letin, Los Angeles Mining Review, and Mining & Scientific
the Mining & Scientific Press quoted, 1882–1887. The Press, 1908–1913. The Mining Review also reprinted news
magazine also published the mint returns. from the Hart Enterprise, of which no files seem to exist.
The ruins remained in good condition when Aaron The Needles Eye carried occasional articles.
Dudley and Alvin Fickewirth visited: “Ghost Town of the Some details of the union local appear in John Ervin
Mojave,” Westways, November, 1941 (v. 33), pp. 22–23. Brinley, Jr., “The Western Federation of Miners” (disser-
tation, University of Utah, 1972), and the Western Fed-
Vanderbilt eration of Miners, Official Proceedings of the Seventeenth
L. Burr Belden wrote two accounts in the San Bernardi- Annual Convention (Denver, 1909).
no Sun-Telegram: “Vanderbilt Ranks High on List of Rich,
Wild Camps,” November 30, 1952, p. 20, and “It’s Gold: Vontrigger
We’re Rich as Vanderbilts!” January 19, 1964, p. B7. The main source is Larry Vredenburgh, Gary Shum-
Fred Holladay, with whom I worked closely, stressed way, and Russell Hartill, Desert Fever: An Overview of Min-
the social and cultural life of the district: “As Rich as Van- ing in the California Desert (Canoga Park, 1981).
derbilt,” Heritage Tales, City of San Bernardino Historical Two periodicals, the Redlands Citrograph, 1906–1908,
Society, Annual Publication 2, 1979, pp. 1–16. and the Los Angeles Mining Review, 1906–1911, reprinted
David Myrick also described the mining boom in his articles on the California Mine.
second volume of Railroads of Nevada and Eastern Cali-
fornia (Berkeley, 1963). Both he and Stanley Paher found
several stunning photos of the town: Ghost Towns and Min-
ing Camps of Nevada (Berkeley, 1970).
Frank Williams visited the camp in its tent stage: type-
written autobiography, Department of Special Collections,
University of Nevada, Las Vegas. O. J. Fisk told Philip
Johnston about his days there: “Treasures from Vander-
bilt,” Westways, June 1952, pp. 22–23.
When Nell Murbarger visited the townsite, several
buildings still stood, including Virgil Earp’s saloon: “Sleep-
ing Ghosts in the New York Mountains,” Desert Magazine,
October, 1957, pp. 24–28. Norton Allen contributed an
excellent map.
The main sources of news were the Needles Eye,
1891–1894; Saturday Review (San Bernardino), 1895–1896;
Pioche (Nevada) Record, especially for 1893; and Mining
& Scientific Press, 1893–1896. The Mining & Scientific
Press also reprinted news from the Vanderbilt Shaft, of
which no issues exist.
Manvel
David Myrick described Manvel’s rise and decline
in Railroads of Nevada and Eastern California (Berkeley,
1963), volume 2; his maps are excellent. Stanley Paher,
Ghost Towns and Mining Camps of Nevada (Berkeley,
1970), concentrated on the pictorial history.
Edgar A. Brown, the son of a merchant, recalled his
boyhood there: “The Manvel I Knew,” Westways, Octo-
ber, 1956, pp. 22–23.
The main sources of news were the Pioche (Nevada)
Record, 1893, and the Searchlight Bulletin and Needles
Eye, 1902–1911.
Hart
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
No one knows when civilization began, but sometime follow. The railroad is still with us today and construction
around fifteen or twenty or thirty thousand years ago by the Union Pacific of a second main train across Mojave
mankind first discovered he didn’t have to live in caves, National Preserve is a measure of just how much it is still
but could build his own at whatever site he preferred with us today.
using rocks and mud and logs and twigs and other build- On May 10, 1869 at Promontory Summit (or Promon-
ing material, the beginning of architecture. At some time tory Station) Utah, two railroads met to complete the first
chasing wild cattle for food he found he could drive them transcontinental railroad. Beginning at Omaha, Nebraska,
into a box canyon and keep them there, handy to be where it connected with river borne transportation which
slaughtered as needed, without running around hunting via the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers connected with
for them in the wild, the beginning of ranching or animal oceanic transportation through the Gulf of Mexico and
husbandry. After hunting wild edible vegetables and fruits, across the Atlantic Ocean, the Union Pacific had built
he found that tossing their remains on a trash heap led westward, and beginning at Sacramento, California,
to germination of seeds close at hand, and he learned he where it connected with river borne transportation on the
could grow what he wanted close to where he lived in- Sacramento River which connected in San Francisco Bay
stead of having to hunt wild plants in the wild - the begin- with oceanic transportation across the Pacific Ocean, the
ning of agriculture. At some point he discovered he could Central Pacific Railroad built eastward, and when their lo-
ride a wild horse instead of just killing it for food, and you comotives touched, pilot to pilot, on May 10, 1869, above
had the beginning of horse-borne transportation. golden and silver spikes which secured the last rails, the
From that point fifteen or twenty or thirty thousand first transcontinental railroad in North America was in
years ago until less than two hundred years ago, the fast- business.
est a man could move on land was as fast as a horse he
was riding could run. And then, with the beginning of The Southern Pacific and later Santa Fe
the industrial revolution, and the invention of the steam transcontinental route
engine, and the application of that engine to a locomo- It is a common urge when business entrepreneurs
tive that rode on wheels that ran on metal rails, you had make a pile of money off of some investment that want
the invention of the railroad in the 1820s and within eight to replicate that feat by doing the same thing or a similar
decades, by the end of the 19th Century, man’s speed on thing again, and so the builders of the first transcontinental
land increased from the speed of a running horse to the railroad immediately upon its completion began looking
speed of a railroad locomotive moving at about a hundred for places they could make another pile of money by
miles and hour. building a railroad. Relevant here, the “Big Four” of Cali-
The invention of the railroad represented a revolution fornia capitalism who had built the Central Pacific, Collis
in transportation unlike any that had occurred in all hu- P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, Governor Leland Stanford,
man history since the harnessing of the horse to carry man and Charles Crocker began looking north and south for
and pull his wagons. Furthermore, the railroad is the most arenas in which they could replicate their success with the
efficient system for moving passengers and freight over Central Pacific, and almost immediately they incorporated
land that has been invented to this day in terms of energy new companies and undertook construction both north
expended. The amount of a steel wheel that encounters and south of Sacramento. To the south, they extended
a steel rail on a railroad car is about the size of a dime, rails first to San Francisco Bay, and then incorporated the
and the amount of resistance of steel on steel as compared Southern Pacific Railroad to try to replicate their Central
with the much larger interface of rubber tires on dirt or Pacific success by building a southern transcontinental rail-
asphalt or concrete roads is infinitesimally smaller. That is road. From San Francisco Bay their construction headed
why the railroad network in the United States remains a southward on two lines, one down the east shore of the
key foundation block of the nation’s infrastructure. Imag- San Francisco Peninsula and then southward generally
ine if you will, all of the freight and passengers carried paralleling the coast to Santa Barbara and Los Angeles,
on trains (with passengers, especially commuter trains in and a second line down the central valley and over dif-
urban settings) being all transferred to trucks, buses and ficult Tehachapi Pass to Mohave, which their construction
automobiles, and the congestion unto gridlock that would crews reached in 1878. From there they resumed con-
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
when through a merger with the Burlington Northern (it- plans of extension, and even a survey to Goodsprings, but
self a merger of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, Great nothing came of it. The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe pur-
Northern, and Northern Pacific railroads), it became the chased the remaining 51 per cent of stock in the California
Burlington Northern & Santa Fe Railway, a name changed Eastern and took it over effective July 1, 1902, making
further early in 2005 when the company dropped the it, in effect, a Santa Fe branch line. Today, portions of
name in favor of being known officially just by the initials, the grade across the New York Mountains are used by
BN&SF Railway. Thus the trackage between Fenner and the unpaved road, while the two legs of the wye north
a point east of Goffs, which also runs along parallel to the of Barnwell and the section of grade approaching and
southern boundary of Mojave National Preserve although passing through Vanderbilt is more-or-less preserved. In
some distance to the south of it west of Fenner, has been 1905, Senator Clark’s San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake
known by six different names under six different compa- Railroad crossed the California Eastern north of Vander-
nies: Southern Pacific; Atlantic & Pacific, Western Divi- bilt at a place initially named Leastalk, which eventually
sion; Santa Fe Pacific Railroad; Atchison, Topeka & Santa became the third location called Ivanpah, and sucked
Fe Railway; Burlington Northern & Santa Fe Railway; and much traffic away from the California Eastern, while
finally, BN&SF Railway. subsequent construction of two north-south railroads, the
During its long history this line carried not only an Las Vegas & Tonopah reaching north from Las Vegas and
impressive amount of transcontinental freight traffic, but the Tonopah & Tidewater reaching north from Ludlow
operated a long list of famous passenger trains, starting more-or-less killed the California Eastern’s hopes of ever
with the California Limited and the Santa Fe De expanding northward to additional mining districts. The
Luxe and in later years adding The Grand Canyon California Eastern continued to provide weekly train ser-
Limited, El Capitan, The Chief, and The Super vice across the New York Mountains between Goffs and
Chief which, under Amtrak’s operation of passenger the second Ivanpah until 1913, after which the track north
trains since 1971, continues today as an Amtrak train of Leastalk ceased to be used. Train service continued
known as The Southwest Limited. from Goffs to Leastalk, or South Ivanpah as it now was
called, until 1918, and then for three years was available
Three Santa Fe subsidiaries not on schedule but only when traffic was offered, and
What began as one morphed into three railways north effective March 10, 1921, the entire line north of Barnwell
from Goffs which all became wholly-owned subsidiaries was abandoned and subsequently dismantled.
of the Santa Fe System. The first of these was the Nevada The southern portion of the line between Goffs and
Southern Railway, the grade of whose abandoned track Barnwell had won a reprieve, however, for in 1906 and
north of the Santa Fe is intact and evident today, and a 1907 the Santa Fe built a subsidiary 23.22-mile Barnwell
historic earthwork structure, running north through the and Searchlight Railway, separately incorporated, spurred
Lanfair Valley, first on the west side of the dirt road, by efforts of promoters in the mining camp of Searchlight
later crossing over to the east side, up to a station called to built their own railway connection to the Salt Lake
Manvel where the Rock Springs Land and Cattle Com- Route at Nipton. The Santa Fe was determined to nip that
pany had established its home ranch headquarters. Begun scheme in the bud. The railway was completed March
in January 1893 by a group headed by Isaac C. Blake 31, 1907 and went into operation on April 1, no fooling!
of the Needles Reduction Company, it was intended to Initially the railway provided daily except Sunday service,
reach mines in the New York Mountains and beyond. and it took 2 1/2 hours to travel from Goffs to Searchlight
This railroad was completed to Manvel in July 1893, and by rail. Unfortunately the years in which the railway was
stalled there. There were grandiose plans to extend it all built were the years in which Searchlight boomed as a
the way to Pioche, but the mines were declining and the mining camp, after which it declined, no doubt helped by
railroad went into bankruptcy in 1894, the year after it had a sharp little recession in the fall in 1907 from which many
been built. mining enterprises in the American West failed to recover.
Others then refinanced and reorganized the railroad By 1919, trains ran to Searchlight only on Mondays and
in 1895 and renamed it the California Eastern Railway. Fridays. Cloudbursts washed out the line in numerous
As the 19th Century came to an end, the Copper World places on September 23, 1923, halting all traffic, the Santa
Mine of the Ivanpah Copper Company began produc- Fe looked at the balance sheet, and applied to the Inter-
ing, and this plus a new smelter in Needles rejuvenated state Commerce Commission for permission to abandon
the railroad, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway the line. The I.C.C. granted approval on February 18,
loaned it money, and in April 1901, the California Eastern 1924, and the history of the three little lines north of Goffs,
resumed construction over the New York Mountains from the Nevada Southern, California Eastern, and Barnwell
Manvel, renamed Barnwell, through Vanderbilt and out & Searchlight Railways, all eventually branches of the
into the Ivanpah Valley and north to a terminus more or Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, came to an end.
less in the middle of that valley which became the second These three railroads had operated right through the heart
location named Ivanpah, 15 miles south of the original of Mojave National Preserve.
Ivanpah on Clark Mountain. Again there were grandiose
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
The Salt Lake Route Line Railroad) grade and track to Clark in exchange for
Another railroad destined to operated through the 50 per cent of the stock in Clark’s San Pedro, Los Angeles
heart of what now is Mojave National Preserve, from & Salt Lake Railroad. Thereafter, construction continued
northeast to southwest, would operate under three differ- eastward from Los Angeles and westward from Utah, to
ent names: San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad a joining of the rails at an empty piece of Nevada desert
from its completion in 1905 until 1916; Los Angeles & roughly 27 miles west of Las Vegas on the afternoon of
Salt Lake Railroad from 1916 to 1988; and overlapping January 30, 1905.
with that second name, Union Pacific Railroad from the As was typical of railroads at the beginning of the 20th
1920s to the present. The idea of a railroad connecting Century, the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad
Salt Lake City with southern California probably went established side tracks or passing tracks often accompa-
back practically to completion of the first transcontinental nied by a section house and bunk house for the mainte-
railroad at Promontory Station in May 1969, which was nance crews known as section gangs about every ten or
followed by construction of the Utah Central from Ogden fifteen miles along the railroad, some of these with water
on the Union Pacific to Salt Lake City, making the capitol tanks to provide locomotives with boiler water, occasion-
of Utah Territory a railroad town, and the Union Pacific ally a wye track, and so forth. The railroad established
would soon take over the Mormon-built Utah Central. a number of these across what now is Mojave National
The first concrete evidence of Union Pacific intentions Preserve, the most important being a “helper station” at
consisted of the Union Pacific interests pushing construc- a place called Kelso, which would be a base for “helper”
tion of a subsidiary Utah Southern southwest from Salt locomotives which would be coupled on the front of
Lake City to Milford, Utah. Union Pacific interests then eastbound trains to “help” them climb the grade to the
played with the idea of an extension southwestward summit at Cima, after which the helper locomotives would
across Utah and Nevada to a connection with the South- be uncoupled, turned on the wye track at Cima, and run
ern Pacific at Mohave, but the Union Pacific entered an back “light” or without train to Kelso to await their next
era of financial difficulty and reorganization in the 1880s helper assignment. As a helper station, Kelso required an
and 1890s, though during 1888 Union Pacific surveyors engine house and eventually its replacement with a larger
worked on a line from Milford to Barstow with the inten- roundhouse, and crews of mechanics and others to help
tion of reaching Los Angeles. In 1890 the Union Pacific keeping the railroad running, as well as a restaurant or
actually built about 145 miles of grade from Milford to eating house and some accommodations for train crews
Pioche, but after laying a mere eight miles of track on it, staying overnight between runs. Thus Kelso, in the middle
construction stalled. Then the faltering Union Pacific went of the Mojave Desert at a location where the railroad had
into bankruptcy in the silver crash of 1893 and was not acquired springs and wells to serve as reliable sources for
reorganized and rejuvenated under the direction of Ed- boiler water for locomotives, became a railroad company
ward Henry Harriman until 1898. Meanwhile the railroad town, with company housing and other such facilities.
picture became greatly complicated, more a part of Utah’s The first through passenger train on the new railroad
history than that of Mojave National Preserve, and while started out from Salt Lake City for Los Angeles on Febru-
the Union Pacific was stalled, in 1900 a copper magnate ary 9, 1905, carrying, among others, Senator Clark. The
from Butte, Montana, named William Andrews Clark, Salt Lake Route was equipped with a stable of modern
who was also a United States Senator, entered the com- standard gauge steam locomotives, most equipped with
petition initiating a two year contest between Clark and partly cylindrical Vanderbilt tenders, and the latest of
Harriman. In a brilliant move, Clark bought the Los An- passenger cars. It soon had a premiere train, The Los
geles Terminal Railway, which gave him a railroad route Angeles Limited, which would remain the most presti-
through and base in Los Angeles, and initiated surveys for gious, Pullman-sleeping-car-equipped train on the railroad.
a railroad to Salt Lake. Covertly he had also bought the Whereas most of the line’s passenger trains stopped for
assets of a corporation that had never built any railroad, the passengers to have meals at stations such as Kelso, Las
the Utah and California Railroad, which however had Vegas, Caliente, and Milford, The Los Angeles Lim-
rights to a surveyed route from Salt Lake City across Utah ited had its own dining car and did not need to make
to the Nevada state border. In one brief coup, Clark had meal stops. It was not until the mid-1930s brought new
the two ends of his Salt Lake to Los Angeles Railroad; technology of locomotives powered by Winton and later
now he had to acquire rights across Nevada and the rest diesel-electric engines pulling new “lightweight” stream-
of California, and build a railroad between Salt Lake City lined passenger cars that a still newer train, the Armour
and Los Angeles using those rights. What followed was an yellow City of Los Angeles eclipsed the Limited as
incredibly complex contest between Clark and Harriman the principal train on the line.
involving lawyers, courts, legislatures, newspapers, compet- The railroad remained the San Pedro, Los Angeles &
ing grading crews, and every weapon either magnate Salt Lake Railroad until 1916 when management of the
could bring to bear, the result of which was a secret com- line decided to shorten the name, dropping the words
promise on July 9, 1902, in which Harriman agreed to sell “San Pedro” to make it simply the “Los Angeles & Salt
portions of Union Pacific-owned (technically Oregon Short Lake Railroad.” Five years later, in 1921, the company
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
persuaded Senator Clark to sell his 50 per cent interest with Fred Harvey envy, should decide to build at Milford,
in the line, and the Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad be- Utah, Caliente and Las Vegas, Nevada, and Kelso and
came a wholly-owned subsidiary of the Union Pacific Rail- Daggett, California, attractive new depot-eating-house-
road. Unlike most such instances, when the Union Pacific hotel combinations all in the California mission revival
dissolved and absorbed the property of a subsidiary into style, emulating the style of some of the Harvey Houses
its own corporate structure, in the case of the Los Angeles such as the Alvarado in Albuquerque. And thus it was in
& Salt Lake Railroad, the Union Pacific retained it as a 1923 and 1924 that Kelso, California acquired a spiffy new
separate company until 1988, when it was finally dissolved depot, eating house and hostelry which the National Park
and absorbed into the Union Pacific Railroad. Until that Service now owns and has just finished restoring as a visi-
time it was common for locomotives owned by the L.A.& tor center for Mojave National Preserve.
S.L. to carry the name “UNION PACIFIC” in large letters The Union Pacific continued operating passenger trains
but to have elsewhere on cabs or tenders or both of steam through Kelso until 1971, when the Federally chartered
locomotives the initials “L.A.& S.L.” National Railroad Passenger Corporation, better known as
Commonly called the Salt Lake Route, the line Amtrak, took over most of the national’s passenger trains.
featured a number of fairly ordinary depots and eating On the Salt Lake Route, Amtrak operated a through
houses, many of them wood frame, until the early 1920s streamlined passenger train known as the Desert Wind
when Union Pacific management caught a contagious between Salt Lake City and Los Angeles until May 10,
disease that might be termed either “Santa Fe Envy” or 1997, when it was discontinued, and earlier operated a
“Fred Harvey Envy.” The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe “Las Vegas Fun Train” between Los Angeles and Las
System had worked out with an entrepreneur named Fred Vegas, Nevada. Since the discontinuance of the Desert
Harvey in the 1870s an agreement under which Harvey Wind. the Salt Lake Route has experienced no passenger
took over and managed railroad depot eating houses traffic across its line. Only freight trans now pass across
and depot hotels. Harvey had very definite ideas about Mojave National Preserve, but freight traffic has grown
how such establishments should be operated, hired first to such proportions that the Union Pacific is preparing to
rate chefs, obtained the highest quality of fresh meat, convert the main line across Mojave from single track to
poultry and produce, installed the finest of linen and double track. Meanwhile, the Salt Lake Route from its
china, and employed energetic young women uniformed completion in 1905 to the present, connecting with the
in black dresses with white aprons as waitresses, this in Union Pacific at Salt Lake City and Ogden, has offered
an era where railroad eating houses were notorious for that company another transcontinental railroad connection
their awful coffee, their stale sandwiches with desiccated as well as access to the markets of southern California, so
bread, rancid meat, and rubberized cheese, greasy China with its operation Mojave National Preserve had not only
and implements, and dirty employees. After the Santa Fe one transcontinental railroad along part of its southern
bankruptcy in the 1890s and its reorganization, under a boundary, but another right across its heart!
new president named Edward Payson Ripley the company
began hiring first rate architects to build attractive perma- The Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad
nent depot hotels, depots and eating houses in Spanish Another desert railroad flanked the western boundary
mission revival, English Tudor half-timbered, Moorish and of Mojave National Preserve and cut across a part of its
neo-classical Palladian designs. This was the competition northwest corner. That was the Tonopah & Tidewater
the Union Pacific faced after the end of World War I, and Railroad, a wholly-owned subsidiary of the Pacific Coast
west of Mojave National Preserve at Barstow the Santa Fe Borax Company, which from 1905 to 1907 built a stan-
and Fred Harvey had their Moorish-style depot hotel and dard gauge railroad between Ludlow on the Santa Fe
restaurant known as Casa de Desierto, or “house of the main line to Death Valley Junction and Beatty, where it
desert,” and east of Mojave National Preserve at Needles connected with the Bullfrog-Goldfield Railroad which in
the railway had its neo-classical, Palladian Harvey House turn connected with the Tonopah & Goldfield Railroad
and restaurant known as “El Garces” after a Spanish and provided a through railroad link which via the South-
padre of that name, both impressive pieces of architec- ern Pacific ran all the way up into western Nevada east of
ture. Worse, west of Daggett through Barstow and over Reno, not that through traffic ever characterized that line
Cajon Pass to San Bernardino, the Union Pacific shared because of its fractured ownership.
joint trackage with the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, so The Tonopah & Tidewater grew out of an instance
that westbound travelers on Union Pacific trains who had in which Senator W.A. Clark misled and then double-
been fed at little board and batten eating houses across crossed Francis Marion Smith of the Pacific Coast Borax
Utah, Nevada and at Kelso, now passed by the elegant Company and the international conglomerate known as
depot restaurants and hotels the Santa Fe had to offer its Borax Consolidated headquartered in London. By 1905,
passengers. Eastbound, after passing such structures, they Smith and Pacific Coast Borax were running out of borate
were then faced with the Salt Lake Route’s rough facilities ore which they were mining about eleven miles north of
from Daggett to Salt Lake City. So it should not be sur- Daggett on the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, to which
prising that by the early 1920s the Union Pacific, infected they had built a narrow gauge ore railroad known as the
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Bibliography
Bradley, Glenn Danford. The Story of The Santa Fe. Boston: Richard G.
Badger, The Gorham Press, 1920. [A recent second edition of this
book is preferred, as it has reinserted several chapters from the origi-
nal manuscript that were excised from the first edition to save space.]
Bryant, Keith L, Jr. History of The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway.
New York: The Macmillan Publishing Company, Inc., 1974.
Chappell, Gordon, Carper, Robert, et. al., An Oasis for Railroaders in the
Mojave; The History and Architecture of the Los Angeles and Salt Lake
Railroad Depot, Restaurant and Employees’ HotelaAt Kelso, California,
on the Union Pacific System. Denver: National Park Service, 1998. [A
Historic Structures Report].
Duffield-Stoll, Anne Q. Zyzzx; History of an Oasis. Northridge: Santa
Susana Press, 19??.
Dunscomb, Guy L. A Century of Southern Pacific Locomotives, 1862-1962.
Modesto: published by the author, 1963.
Hemphill, Mark W. Union Pacific Salt Lake Route. Erin [Ontario,
Canada]:The Boston Mills Press, 1995.
Keeling, Patricia Jernigan (Editor). Once Upon a Desert. Barstow: Mojave
River Valley Museum Association, 1976.
Klein, Maury, Union Pacific; Birth of a Railroad, 1862-1893. Garden
City: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1987.
___, Union Pacific; The Rebirth, 1894-1969. Garden City: Doubleday &
Company, Inc., 1989.
Kratville, William W., and Ranks, Harold E. The Union Pacific Streamlin-
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coin was in large circulation, appar- that dollar as legal tender. This margin country for months, was transported
ently all over the United States. It was was something over 40 cents, and if from its place of manufacture to co-
not made of spurious metal, to the any large number of coins were being conspirators, doubtless in the centers
contrary, it was of pure silver, contain- turned out daily those engaged in the of trade, by whom it was distributed.
ing only the proportions of alloy used unlawful enterprise were doubtless ac- The task then was to trace down
in like coins turned out by the mints. cumulating immense fortunes. from whence this particular bar had
The coins were not molded, as all the It was a hard case to handle. Not come. In order to do this we had to
counterfeit coins I have ever known alone was it difficult by reason of the “run down” each of the bars received
have been made, but it was punched, fact that the operators were evidently in that consignment. This was quite
pressed and milled, in other words, men of means and of intelligence far difficult, but after two weeks of labor
it was minted just as are the pieces above that of persons who usually we succeeded in tracing it to Kansas
coined at the mints. engage in debasing the currency, but City, where we learned it had come
The fact that this new counterfeit also from the fact that certain exist- from a pawnshop, a sort of “fence,”
was silver, that it had, consequently, ing popular and political conditions the keeper of which had bought it
the proper weight and the proper seemed likely to hedge about the from a thief.
“ring,” made it an imitation exceed- culprits a kind of indefinite sympathy Operating through the local au-
ingly difficult to detect; only by the and support... Thousands of persons thorities, the [person] who kept this
closest inspection, and the most ac- wanted free coinage of silver. They place was arrested and thrown into
curate analysis and comparisons were earnestly believed there was not jail upon a charge of receiving stolen
the experts of the Treasury Depart- enough money of all kinds in circula- goods; we told him if he would divulge
ment finally able, positively, to declare tion, and whoever these illegal coin from whom he had receive it we would
that these pieces had not been made at manufacturers were, the money they let him go free. He very gladly did so,
any of the government mints, and were were making was being turned directly and this brought us in contact with the
therefore, illegal and counterfeit. into circulation, while unfortunately thief. Employing the same tactics with
The points of difference between much of the coinage of the govern- him we learned that he had stolen the
the genuine and the imitation coins ment never left the mints where it was bar from the room of a lodger in a
having been once noted, it was pos- made... All of the numerous circulars lodging-house where he was employed;
sible to detect all of these fraudulent distributed broadcast by the depart- that the fellow had, one night while
issues, since they were all lacking in ment, offering enormous rewards for drunk, employed him to escort him
the same particulars. These particulars the apprehension of the makers of this to his lodgings; he did so, and while
consisted of certain shades of inferior- coin, were without avail... the man was in a sodden sleep he
ity in the execution of the whole of the After scouring the country for ransacked the room and everything in
obverse and of the eagle of the reverse; months for a clue, we stumbled upon it, and he had found this silver bar at
a difference which, however, was not one by accident. The Treasury Depart- the bottom of a big trunk which he had
apparent upon casual observation, and ment was at that time, under the Sher- broken into.
could only be originally perceived by man law, purchasing about 4,400,000 We secured a good description of
the aid of lenses in a studied com- ounces of silver monthly, and this was this bacchanalian silver owner, and I
parison between the genuine and the delivered at the mints in the usual started in search of him. I soon found
counterfeit. form of bars. In a consignment which he was no longer in the city and as it
It was clear, therefore, to the Secret reached the mint at Philadelphia there was more important to continue to
Service Bureau of the government that was a bar which, when subjected to the trace down where the bar came from
all of these illegal coins were made ordinary probing which is undertaken than to pursue this criminal, I turned
with the same die. Where that die was in ascertain that the government pur- this part of the investigation over to the
located and at work, whether within chases of “gold bricks,” appeared so bureau and myself continued on the
the United States or without, and who singularly cast that the director ordered main case.
was operating it, these were the great one end of it sawed off. Imagine the To find out through what channel
questions which concerned, not along surprise of every one present when it that bar had gotten into town was the
the Treasury Department, but the was seen that the exterior of the bar important thing. It was most likely
entire administration, and was commit- was really a heavy box or shell, and that it had come under some sort of a
ted to the Secret Service Bureau for its that within there was a large number cover—enclosed in something intended
best work. of these spurious silver collars. They to disarm suspicion of the fact that bar
It was clear to us that the manufac- were packed in rows so closely as to silver was being transported. It was
turers of this coin had been incited to make the entire practically a solid almost a matter of course that I should
their enterprise by the wide margin mass. There were one thousand of first call at the various railroad offices
that then existed between the com- these dollars and it became clear that to inquire if any person answering the
modity price of the silver contained it was in this manner that the counter- description of the drunken lodger had
in the coined dollar and the value of feit coin which had been flooding the at any time received any freight which
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might allow of the hypothesis of its good team of mules in a light covered tive I have found that the best way
being bullion. Imagine my surprise wagon, started for the mine on the 1st to work up cases is to conceal your
and delight when the division superin- day of August. It was a long and weary identity while you can and never reveal
tendent of the first road I called upon, drive, across a broad desert into a your true case. Invent a set of circum-
the Santa Fe Railroad, told me that country of rugged and bare mountains, stances to employ for the time, which
large quantities of bar silver had been the most desolate region the mind can will prompt the one upon whom you
shipped over the line, billed to a man imagine. We traversed the dry bed of are operating to do your will; the need
I described, who went by the name of an ancient lake where the ground was of this will be but transitory and em-
Reynolds. He told me there was no blistering hot and our animals nearly ployed to overcome a present obstacle
secret about these shipments; that the strangled to death with the dust of or carry a point at hand, when you
bars were refined silver and that they alkali. Far down the valley hovered have done this and your true character
came from the Mescal mine in Califor- a water-like mirage, as though in mock- has been discovered, the man whom
nia. The Santa Fe hauled all the silver ery of a cooling sea. The ground was you have thus deceived will think
from this mine and most of it was partially covered with a stubby sage nothing of it so long as he himself is
taken to Kansas City and delivered to brush which made travel difficult, and not injured, and this it should not be
Reynolds, who from there reshipped occasionally we were forced to cross a your purpose to do, except he be the
it to various points throughout the deep dry rut which had been plowed party against whom you are operating.
United States. in the surface by the running waters of Indeed, it seems to me that the abil-
Possessed of this information, and a winter’s cloudburst. ity of a detective is measured by the
feeling myself on a hot trail, I com- Ultimately we entered the mouth readiness with which he invents these
municated at once with the bureau of a wide pass which Kevane said was circumstantial subterfuges and the
at Washington, advising them of my five miles from the mine. The great depth and strength of them.
intention of going to California, taking mountains on either hand were bare in If I had told Kevane that I was a
charge of the Mescal mine, and arrest- their dry desolation. only little dots of government detective, that I knew the
ing every person having any relation to color here and there against the bare operators of the Mescal mine were
it. I advised the chief that in order to reddish earth told that some famished a lot of counterfeiters and that I had
successfully carry out this programme shrub continued to cling to a weak come there to arrest them, his tongue
it might be necessary to make a show existence in desperate defiance of the would have burned at the roots, and
of force, and I wanted a detail of some furious sun. Occasionally in small he could never have cooled it until he
sort to be placed under my command. gulches, or depressions, orchards of had told the men at the camp all I had
Accordingly I received instructions yucca grew like stunted trees, the little told him. I did not commit this error,
through the War Department to call tufts of green palm-like leaves sticking besides, had I done so, he would have
on Gen. McCook of the Department from their tops, while often almost all realized that the camp was about to be
of Arizona to place at my disposal the balance of the plant was dead and broken up, and as it was a source of
whatever force I should feel myself in rotted. Across the valley stood Park’s great revenue to him, and of nearly all
need of. Mountain, bold, gigantic, grand! A the prosperity of the little town about
This being arranged, I started for great dark mass, dark, for it is lime- the station, where the spurious dollars
California. Arriving at the station of stone, while all the rest are granite. circulated like air, he would naturally
Bitter Creek, which was the point We turned around a small cone- have sided with the camp against me.
nearest the Mescal mine, I sought out like hill, and there before us, close I therefore told him I was an agent of
a teamster known as Dolph Kevane, upon us, was the Mescal camp. It lay Williams; that Williams had sold the
who had been an old prospector, who on a ridge which made out from the mine upon the condition that if the ore
was well acquainted with the country, mountain into the valley. A scramble developed over forty ounces he was
and especially with the locality of the down a steep s\hillside brings you to a to get a certain royalty on the differ-
Mescal mine. little stream trickling away from a pool ence, that we had reliable information
At that time Liuet. [sic] Ferguson, of the most delicious water, fed from that the ore was averaging seventy
with a detachment of twenty men of a pipe communication with a wet shaft ounces, and yet Davis had never told
the cavalry, had arrived from Fort in the mine. Above on the bald side us anything about this increased yield.
Wingate and were camped at Burton’s of the high roaring mountain is the The purpose of my visit to the mine
Bridge across Dry River. The lieuten- mine, its grey dump marking with a was to secretly ascertain how the ore
ant reported to me and I ordered him light splotch the dark slope. There is a was running.
to proceed with his troop to the Mes- bucket cable railway leading down over Knowing it was the strict rule of
cal mine, and to arrive there under the trestles from the mouth of the tunnel the operators to allow no stranger
cover of the night, at daybreak on the to the smelter several hundred yards in the camp or on any of the claims,
morning of the 5th of August. below, to which place the ore is carried and wishing to remain here as long as
Kevane and myself, equipped with for treatment. possible, I went disguised as a laborer
a sparse camping outfit, and driving a In my long experience as a detec- seeking employment. I arranged with
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Kevane to have a mock quarrel with the mouth of the tunnel. faced man, with taffy-colored hair,
me after our arrival, the upshot of Mr. Davis, the proprietor, worked who, seeing me, said:
which would be that he would refuse in the mine, and, to my idea, he oper- “The team will be here this morn-
to take me away on the team. Having ated the minting and rolling machine. ing, and I want you to go in on it; and
no food nor water, I would then be an Mr. Spencer appeared to keep a if you ever come here again I shall
object of pity and sympathy to those at general lookout on the surface, a part send you to San Bernardino to jail.”
the mine, and being very harmless and of his practice being to carry a pair of “Is that so?” I replied: “then I will
inconsequential in appearance, I relied glasses in a case hung about him, and have you to know that you yourself, sir,
on my chances of being tolerated in with these to occasionally sweep the are under arrest. I am an officer of the
camp, and given a little food, while, valley. United States and I arrest you.”
without making any inquiries, I would From what I saw of the operation of I threw back my coat and displayed
keep my eyes open to all that went on the mine, they must have been taking my star, which I had lately pinned
about me. out about twenty tons of ore daily; on my vest. The man looked upon it
This programme came to be car- this reduced and refined, would have almost paralyzed with astonishment.
ried out exactly as it was laid down. yielded an average of eight hundred “On what charge do you pretend to
The quarrel with Kevane passed off ounces of silver, this quantity of metal arrest me?” he said, without question-
successfully, and I was left alone. I was coined into silver dollars would pro- ing my authority.
ordered out of camp by Superinten- duce about one thousand coins, so that “Upon a charge of counterfeit-
dent Spencer, but I told him I would it might be said that the gross output ing the coin of the United States,” I
not go, that I had neither food nor wa- of this enterprise in false money was replied.
ter, and that I could not walk over the $1000 per day. “Pooh,” he said, affecting a cool-
desert, as my feet were sore. I told him With silver at 63 cents per ounce, ness he did not feel. “You talk like a
that the only thing I could do was to which was then the ruling market fool” He pulled a cord which rang a
remain at the camp until a team went price, the silver contained in each bell in the mine, giving the signal for
down to the station and go on that. My coin was worth, as I have said, about the men below to appear on top. “I’ll
excuse did not please Mr. Spencer, but 40 cents; this left a profit of about 60 have you to know, sir,” he said, “that
he did not drive me off. cents on each coined dollar, or $600 it will take a better man than you to
So far as the mining of the ore and on the $1000 as profits obtained over arrest a whole camp and shut down
the smelting and refining was con- and above their profits upon the pro- a mine on such a fool charge as that:
cerned, I observed nothing unusual duction of the silver. how d’ye suppose you’re goin’ to take
nor extraordinary, except that they I managed to ascertain that no ship- us in the railroad? D’ye think we will
should have a refinery in connection ment of bars would be made for two furnish our own transportation and
with their plant, then they could have weeks, and, as there were quite a pile haul you besides? Ha, Ha!”
shipped the bullion and have had it of them in the refinery, chuckled over At this juncture the men who were
refined much cheaper in the East, and the thought that I should capture all of working below began to come out of
this is the usual method pursued at all these silver bars or boxes, each one of the tunnel, and Spencer started to
mines where any smelting is done, but which contained a thousand of their explain to them that they had been
I asked no questions. I observed, also, silver dollars. It was the 4th of Au- spied upon by a detective who wanted
that after the silver was cast into bars it gust. On the following morning Lieut. to arrest all hands upon the nonsensi-
was taken up into the mine, and subse- Fitzgerald and his troop would be on cal charge of counterfeiting. A short,
quently the bars were brought back to the ground. I knew the direction they thick-set man with black hair, a black
the refinery again, and piled up there would come so that night I stole away moustache, and light eyes whom I
in an iron vault. from camp and went to meet them. supposed was Davis, wanted to argue
After witnessing this I felt sure that The troop was within four miles of with me what an absurd thing it was to
coining was going on in the mine, the camp at 3 o’clock in the morn- talk about any counterfeiting going on
doubtless in the bottom of one of the ing, and, acting upon my suggestion, at that place.
shafts, and that the coins were packed they dismounted, left their horses I was not disposed, however, to
in these silver boxes which were then with a guard and traveled the balance play on words.
sealed up and made to look like solid of the way on foot. I went ahead and “I command you to call every man
bars. I felt sure that the eight bars of returned to the camp alone, directing here,” said I: “they must deliver to me
silver which I saw stack up in the refin- that they should advance as closely as whatever arms they have, and prepare
ery were so many boxes of counterfeit possible without exposing themselves, themselves to go to the railroad with
silver dollars, and this theory was con- and to remain concealed until I should me.”
firmed by the story that Kevane had give them a signal to appear. They laughed. “I will see,” said I.
told me about the machinery which The morning shift was just about to I blew a shrill blast on my whistle and
went into the mine, and by the fact of go into the mine when I approached instantly there tumbled over the top of
their keeping such a close guard over Mr. Spencer, a low-browed, moon- the mountain the blue forms of twenty
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soldiers, their legs in brown leggings, a blast in the mine. “A shot,” he said, metal.
and their rifles in their hands. They “had been set and the fuse lighted; we I chafed under the realization that
scrambled rapidly down toward us, had come out of the mine to allow it to withal I was to leave the mine without
while Davis and Spencer turned white take effect without hurting anyone.” a particle of legal evidence that any
and looked appalled. Instantly Spencer “Are all your shots like that?” I counterfeiting had been in progress
blew a large whistle with a peculiar asked. there, but such was the fact: I had no
sound, and then I heard a great com- He replied that that seemed to be a such evidence. We took with us all the
motion in the refinery below us; they unusually heavy one, and it was. There men employed at the place, together
he beckoned to his men, and they ran must have been a ton of giant powder with Davis and Spencer, but the most
as rapidly as possible together down burnt in that explosion. The tunnel of them ... knew nothing beyond their
the side. had caved in, and the debris from immediate duties at the mines, and
Almost immediately after this, above on the mountain had covered from these I learned nothing.
and while the soldiers were still about the place many feet in depth. It was Davis, Spencer and Coughman,
half way between the summit and the perfectly apparent that both shafts the smelter foreman, were put on trial,
tunnel, there came at first a dull roar, within must have been torn to pieces charged with counterfeiting, but not a
accompanied by a slight shock, appar- and the whole mine was a wreck. word of damaging testimony could be
ently from the center of the mountain, Thousands of tons of much doubtless elicited against them. The metal I took
then in an instant followed an enor- filled the holes, and to have reached from the refining pot was assayed and
mous and most terrific explosion, an the bottom of the shafts would have found to contain just the proportion
explosion of volcanic violence which required as great an expenditure as of pure silver and the identical kind
seemed to [come] from below us and the total amount that had been used in of alloy contained in the silver dollar;
through the tunnel and to convulse the developing the mine. but they produced in court samples of
entire mountain. The earth on which It was clear to all of us that the the ore of the mine which was shown
I stood heaved and threw me from it. explosion had been effected on to contain the same minerals, to wit:
I was hurled forward, forcibly striking purpose. These counterfeiters had Silver and copper. A quantity of the
the ground head first, and rolled down taken into account the chances of the spurious silver coins were found on
the slope. I looked above me; the mine being some day raided by the their persons and we put our experts
concussion had loosened a quantity of officials who would trace to that place on the stand, who examined the coin
overhanging rock, and an avalanche the counterfeit silver dollars. They and pronounced it counterfeit: but
of debris was sliding down among the had stored hundreds of pounds of they produced a greater number of
panic-stricken soldiers. A great rock dynamite where the concussion of its experts who declared it to be genuine.
bounded past me and shocked me ignition would produce the severest of But what discomfited us most in the
with its wind as it went tumbling on in effects, and they had connected it with trial of the case was their tendering one
the gulch below. Men came sprawling an electric wire leading to the refin- of our experts on the stand a coin and
headlong down, dome rolled down, ery. Spencer had given the signal to asking him whether it was genuine or
while others remained lying flat on the discharge the blast, and the battery was spurious. He examined it with great
side of the mountain. turned on; the result was that minting care and pronounced it to be the latter.
When the effects of the explosion machine, dies, rollers and whatever They then put a number of witnesses
had passed I found, happily enough, else of evidence as in the crime of on the stand, each of whom testified
that I was uninjured and that Lieut. counterfeiting had instantly become that they had together on that very
Fitzgerald had also the good fortune to buried beneath thousands of tons of morning procured that identical coin
escape. He joined me and we began to debris. from a government mint, where it had
get together the members of the troop. We then proceeded to the been issued to them as genuine.
We found that one mad had been so refinery,intending to seize the silver We found it impossible to trace to
crushed between rocks that he was in bars which I had seen so numerously this mine, with the certainty of legal
a dying condition, another had a leg piled therein, but lo! every one had evidence, the bar containing the silver
broken and another had sprained an vanished. I asked where they were, but dollars which we had cut open at the
ankle. received no reply: to direct questions mint. There was no doubt that the
Such was the list of our killed and put to the foreman of the refinery I re- only way we could get evidence against
wounded. We turned to look for those ceived the reply that he did not know. the accused, proving that they had
whom we had come to arrest, and we I looked into the melting kettle; it was been engaged in the manufacture of
were in no pleasant frame of mind to full of silver metal. The box bars with counterfeit coin, was by penetrating
undertake the business. They were their silver dollars had been thrown those innumerable tons of rock in that
all huddled together, about twenty into the kettle, and had melted into mountain, and bringing to light that
of them, in a sheltered ravine. We bullion; but no trace of the form of a machinery which lay buried hundreds
charged upon them. They did not box or the shape of a dollar could be of feet below. There were no avail-
repent. Davis told us there had been discerned in the molten mass of bright able funds to meet this expense, and,
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Figure 2. Remnants of
evaporation ponds of the
Pacific Coast Soda Co. Photo
taken looking SE from the
adjoining limestone ridge. R.
Fulton, photo.
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carbonate, bicarbon-
ate and caustic soda.
Both plants are the
result of the work of
Prof. G. E. Bailey,
the chemist of the
company, who has
devoted several years
to a study of the
saline deposits of the
state and their utiliza-
tion and who now
sees his ideas carried
The liquor from the chilling tanks is run into
into practical operation.
large soar vats or “salt floors” where the salt
(chloride of sodium), crystallizes out in a few The plant at Soda Lake cost over $25,000, and
days. When the salt crop is complete, the the plant at Santa Ana will cost about $75,000
mother liquor is drawn from the salt floors into when completed this fall.”
another series of solar vats where it is allowed
to evaporate to dryness under the desert sun.
This gives three products for the plant - - sul-
phate of soda from the chilling tanks, salt from
the salt floors, and impure sodium carbonate
carrying some sulphate, and some salt, from
the last solar vats.
The works were started up the last of May and
proved so successful that the plant was at once
ordered enlarged to a daily capacity of 25 tons
of sulphate. The plant is equipped with the
narrow-gauge road mentioned: a 60- horse-
power and 25-horsepower engine: a 40 ton
ammonia ice-plant, and several acres of vats
and floors. The sulphate of soda and the salt
produced are both practically chemically pure,
analyzing over 99 per cent pure. The sulphate
is produced at once and the salt is gathered
in a few days, instead of months as by the
ordinary process. Some of the sulphate is sold
for glass making and other purposes, but the
main use of the plant is to furnish sulphate for
the large plant building at Santa Ana, Califor-
nia, where the sulphate will be converted into
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Stop 1: Remnants of the Pacific Salt and Soda Company operation are north of the Desert Studies Center
and east of the Tonapah and Tidewater Railroad grade. Evaporative ponds, remains of sluice gates,
railroad ties, and foundations for machinery and buildings can be found in this area.
Stop 2: Walk south past the abandoned Pool House along the east side of the limestone ridge (there is a
path). You will pass Mojave Chub Spring (a small artesian pool with the endangered Mojave Tui Chub
fish survives), and arrive at the southeast corner of the ridge. Evaporative pond structures of the Pacific
Coast Soda Company are visible on the playa adjacent to the shoreline.
Stop 3: Walk to the east onto the playa from the evaporative ponds for about 15 minutes to the remains of
the narrow gauge (30 inch) railroad cross-ties that were installed by the Pacific Coast Soda Company in
1907.
Stop 4: Just south of stop 2 you will encounter the remains of several concrete foundations and a few
retaining walls constructed of limestone rock that form construction pads (buildings or machinery?).
Continue westward to the T&T railroad grade (now a dirt road), which you can follow northward to
return to the Desert Studies Center.
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Figure 7. View looking NE over salt works of the Pacific Salt and Soda Co. circa 1908. Frank Green, photo: Hugh Tolford Collection.
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Figure 8. Scene in figure 7 as it appears today. Note tamarisk tree at approximate location of wooden shed, and the berm angling up and
left from that location. An approximately 4” diameter pipe visible in the 1908 image (just right of an upright tank), is also visible in this
modern image. R. Fulton, photo.
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Deposits of commercial talc in the vicinity of Silver The invading granite is now known to be Late Cretaceous
Lake, San Bernardino County, California were almost con- in age (DeWitt, and others, 1984). The relative ages of
tinuously mined from 1915 to the mid-1970s. They yielded the metamorphic rocks and the various igneous rocks that
an estimated 300,000 tons of metamorphosed sedimentary intrude them can be reasonably well established but their
rocks. These deposits consist of mixtures of magnesian absolute ages remain in question.
silicate minerals – mostly tremolite but also various pro- As shown in Figure 1, the typical body of commercial
portions of talc, chlorite(?), serpentine, and forsterite. The talc is stratiform and generally 10 to 15 feet thick. It was
products sold as commercial talc were used as a ceramic once a sedimentary carbonate rock and was later altered
raw material and a paint ingredient. The talc-rich rock was to assemblages of calcium-magnesium silicate minerals.
also marketed as a lubricant in the manufacture of rubber Most of the talc-rich rock occurs in tabular bodies along
goods. the walls of the deposit, permitting it to be mined selec-
In mapping and describing these deposits for the Cali- tively. The tremolitic part of a typical deposit commonly
fornia Division of Mines more than 50 years ago (Wright, encloses masses of an earlier, higher temperature assem-
L.A. 1954), I found that they were part of a strongly blage composed mostly of forsterite and tremolite. Theses
metamorphosed succession of sedimentary rocks and composite bodies of commercially mined rock have been
associated igneous rocks engulfed in a granitic batholith. invaded by bodies of granitic rock, both fine-grained
Figure 1. Idealized cross section through a typical body of commercial talc showing bodies of various igneous rocks that intrude
the body (Wright, L. A., 1954)
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Figure 2. Block diagram showing the geologic setting of the Silver Lake talc deposits (Wright, L. A. 1954)
and coarse-grained, and other bodies composed of mafic ics in a metamorphosed granitic terrane, southeastern California:
minerals. Geological Society of America Bulletin, v .95, p. 723-739.
The geologic setting and the major rock units of the Sil- Wright, L. A., 1954, Geology of the Silver Lake talc deposits, San Bernar-
dino County, California: California Division of Mines Special Report
ver Lake talc deposits are shown in Figure 2. Note that the 38, 30 p. and 3 maps.
bodies of commercial talc have formed in a well-defined, Wright, L. A., 1968, Talc deposits of the southern Death Valley-Kingston
layered part of a succession of metamorphosed sedimen- Range region, California: California Division of Mines and Geology
tary rocks. This succession, in turn, has been engulfed and Special Report 95, 79 p., and 3 plates.
separated into isolated islands in a sea composed of the
much younger batholith.
It is tempting to correlate the sedimentary rocks and
the associated talc deposits at the Silver Lake mine with
the talc deposits of the Proterozoic Crystal Spring Forma-
tion which is extensively exposed in the bordering region
athwart southern Death Valley (Wright, 1968). The talc
deposits of the Crystal Spring Formation, however, are
very different from those at Silver Lake in that they have
formed along the contact between a region-wide diabase
sill and the lowest carbonate strata in the Crystal Spring.
This setting is clearly unlike that of the Silver Lake talc de-
posits – the diabase sill is missing and the metamorphosed
sedimentary succession that contains the deposits remains
uncorrelated with any part of the Pahrump Group.
References cited
DeWitt, Ed., Armstrong, R. L., Sutter, J. F., and Zartman, R. F., 1984,
U-Th-Pb. Rb-Sr, and Ar-Ar mineral and whole-rock isotopic systemat-
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Figure 1. The Halloran turquoise districts: West, Middle, and East camps (after Pemberton in Murdoch and Webb, 1966). U.S. Geological
Survey Halloran 15’ quadrangle, 1956.
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others, 1984; Friedman, 1996; Reynolds, 1988, 1990, 1993; (4) A source of phosphate. Phosphate is more abundant
Reynolds and Calzia, 1996; Reynolds and others, 1996), is in basalt (0.5+%, Turner and Verhoogen, 1960) than in
summarized below. other volcanic rocks. Basalts flowed over the Halloran
Cretaceous (100 Ma) granitic plutons intruded older Hills after 5 Ma years.
rocks, leaving gneissic roof-pendants surrounded by Teu-
tonia quartz monzonite (Beckerman, 1982). Little remains Turquoise was probably deposited in the Halloran Hills
to record early Tertiary intrusion or deposition in the after 5 Ma. Ground water leached phosphate from basalt,
Mojave Desert interior, but there is evidence of extensive picked up copper sulfate solutions from the gravels, and
erosion and deep weathering. All rock deposits overlying traveled laterally through the porous, weathered quartz
the Teutonia quartz monzonite have been removed by monzonite until it reached alunitized quartz monzonite.
erosion. Iron oxides have stained this granitic rock red, The mineral alunite (K2Al6(SO4)4(OH)12 is a high alu-
and the interior of joint-bounded granitic blocks show minum sulfate produced by sulfate-rich water alteration
leisingang weathering rings that indicate deep weathering. of feldspar (KAl Si3O8). Therefore, the altered quartz
Decomposed granite has eroded away, leaving spheroidal monzonite is a porous, high aluminum sulfate/silicate host
boulder piles in place. Proterozoic quartzite lag-gravels rock. When it receives copper phosphate/sulfate solutions,
remain in paleotopographic swales. the copper aluminum phosphate turquoise is precipitated.
The early Miocene Peach Spring tuff (PST, 18.5 Ma.) All the turquoise deposits in the Mojave Desert (above,
is the oldest dated rock retained on the pre-Miocene Murdoch and Webb, 1966; Pemberton, 1983) are associ-
erosional surface. Associated with fine-grained lacustrine ated with Jurassic or late Tertiary volcanic rocks which
and fluvial sediments, this volcaniclastic sequence heralds may provide the phosphate sources.
the formation of the Halloran Hills–Shadow Valley basin. The host rock for turquoise in the Halloran Hills is
This west-vergent detachment basin was actively extending Teutonia quartz monzonite (Beckerman, 1982). Unaltered
westward between 13 and 10 Ma. The extension-related minerals and turquoise pseudomorphs give an picture
listric-normal faulting left a geologic signature or pattern of the original fabric of the Teutonia quartz monzonite.
repeated in fault blocks from west to east. The pattern is Most Halloran turquoise (Plate 1-1) is found in fractures
quartz monzonite, volcanic rocks (PST or pyroxene andes- between blocks of quartz monzonite. In certain areas,
ite) and fine grained sediments, then coarse, basin-filling turquoise is associated with quartz and beryl, suggest-
deposits of conglomerate and of avalanche and gravity ing deposition in miarolitic cavities. These cavities were
slide debris from eastern, copper-rich sources. Degraded formed near the end of emplacement of the granitic Teu-
fault scarps and the pre-Miocene surface are recognized tonia quartz monzonite pluton, and have the composition
on the west and east sides of each granitic block. of small pegmatite dikes, containing microcline feldspar,
After 10 Ma, erosion smoothed the surface of the quartz, beryl, and occasional apatite and (hematite-re-
east-tilted fault blocks. Interaction between the left-lateral placed) pyrite crystals. The cavities now contain turquoise
Garlock fault zone and the right-lateral Soda-Avawatz fault pseudomorphs of what appears to represent the following
zone thrust plates of Proterozoic Riggs Carbonate east mineral assemblage:
over the Halloran Hills. Beginning about 5 Ma, Pliocene
Quartz Unaltered hexagonal crystals
basalts flowed west and east over Halloran structures and Muscovite Unaltered monoclinic crystals
topography. Beryl, var. aquamarine Unaltered hexagonal crystals
Microcline feldspar Triclinic turquoise pseudomorphs
Pyrite, p. a. hematite Cubic turquoise pseudomorphs
Turquoise Deposition “Barite?” Orthorhombic turquoise pseudomorphs
Turquoise is a copper aluminum phosphate Apatite Hexagonal turquoise pseudomorphs
[CuAl6(PO4)4(OH)8.4H20]; because there are six aluminum
atoms for each copper atom, a source for aluminum is im- The triclinic turquoise pseudomorphs have the mor-
portant for the formation of turquoise. The Halloran Hills phology of triclinic microcline feldspar; the process of
contain four important components for the deposition and replacement would be more straightforward if the feldspar
formation of turquoise: had already altered to alunite. Cubic pyrite crystals altered
(1) A porous host rock to goethite (limonite) are common in pegmatites and miar-
olitic cavities. The dissolved, empty cubic hollows can be
(2) A source of aluminum. Certain areas of quartz monzo- filled by turquoise.
nite in the Halloran Hills were alunitized, probably at The hexagonal turquoise pseudomorphs in the Hal-
the time of listric-normal faulting (13 - 10 Ma). “Alunit- loran Hills (Plate 1-2) have a different morphology than
ization” is hydrothermal alteration of feldspathic igne- the associated beryl (Plate 1-3). The hexagonal pseudo-
ous rocks producing alunite-rich rocks. morphs were originally described as being a beryl replace-
(3) A source of copper. Copper minerals in gravel from ment, since unaltered beryl was found in association.
the Mescal and Clark ranges to the east filled the Hal- However, the beryl has a relatively long “C” axis, promi-
loran Hills–Shadow Valley basin after 12 Ma. nent prism faces and no pyramid faces. All the hexagonal
pseudomorphs have a short “C” axis, and many show
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Prehistoric Mining
Stone hammers from prehistoric turquoise mining
have been recorded from the Halloran Hills (Eisen, 1898;
Sperisen, 1897, 1938; Leonard and Drover, 1980). Many
hammers were pecked to develop grooves around their
median and show impact abrasions on both ends (Fig. 2).
Hammers were made from, in order of abundance, basalt,
quartz, quartz breccia, meta-quartzite, and quartzite, with
minor use of gneiss and chalcedony breccia (Leonard and
Drover, 1980). All these lithologies occur locally (Leon-
ard and Drover, 1980; Reynolds, 1988, 1990); quartzite
cobbles are also abundant along Colorado River terraces
60 miles to the east. The reconstruction of aboriginal min-
ing and mucking to recover turquoise and remove waste
rock has been described (Rogers, 1929; Leonard and
Drover, 1980). Descriptions of dead-falls and booby-traps
left by ancient miners to guard their excavations have
been reported by recent miners (Ed Nazelrod, p. c., 1975).
Petroglyphs described in early reports from the Halloran
Hills (Fig 3; Eisen, 1898; Kunz, 1904) are not directly as-
sociated with aboriginal turquoise pits, but instead have
Figure 3. Petroglyphs in the Halloran Spring district.
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A. D. (Leonard and Drover, 1980). A second period of filled ...with wind-blown sands and dust, but
mining by Patayan cultural branches (Yuman and Prescott whose blackened roofs and rudely sculptured
branches) took place from 750–1200 A. D. A late pe- walls indicate that they were occupied for a
riod of mining by Panamint Shoshone and Chemehuevi long time by people who worked the mines.
occurred from 1200–1900 A. D. (Leonard and Drover, In the blown sand were found stone imple-
1980). ments and pottery fragments of rude type,
incised but not painted. The openings to these
Rediscovery and Commercial Mining caves are partly closed by roughly built walls
Sperisen (1938) published a portion of gemologist of trap blocks piled upon one another with no
George F. Kunz’s (1905) summary of the “re-discovery” of attempt at fitting and no cement, but evidently
Halloran turquoise deposits: made as rude protection against weather and
wild beasts. The tools, found partly in the
In the extreme northeastern part of this caves and largely in the mine pits, are care-
county there have been discovered old and fully wrought and polished from hard basalt
abandoned mines of turquoise covering an or trap, chiefly hammers and adzes or axes,
area of many square miles. Associated with generally grooved for a handle and often of
these mines were found the relicts of an early large size. Some are beautifully perfect, others
race; and it is supposed that this is the original are much worn and battered by use.
source of much of the turquoise found in The most impressive feature, however, is
the hands of the Indians of the southwestern the abundance of rock carvings in the whole
United States and Mexico. The turquoise oc- region. These are vary varied, conspicuous,
curs in small veins and also in kidney-shaped and peculiar … Some are recognizable as
masses about the size of a bean. … ‘Aztec water signs.’ pointing the way to springs
The first published announcement of the tur- … They are numbered by many thousands
quoise discoveries in this region was made in … Some are combinations of lines, dots, and
1897, (Sperisen, 1897). The locality was given curves....; others represent animals and men; a
as near Manvel [Barnwell] ... Mr. T. C. Bassett third... is that of the ‘shield figures’...
observed ... a vein of turquoise... and aborigi- One curious legend still exists among the
nal stone hammers... as usual at all turquoise neighboring Indians that is in no way improb-
localities in the southwest... the location was able or inconsistent with the facts. The story
named the Stone Hammer mine. was told Mr. Eisen by ‘Indian Johnny’, son of
On the reports of prospectors reaching San the Piute chief, Tecopah, who died recently
Francisco … an exploring party was organized at a great age, and who, in turn had received
by the San Francisco “Call,” and Mr. Gustav it from his father. Thousands of years ago,
Eisen, of the California Academy of Sciences, says the tale, this region was the home of
became attached to it as archaeological expert. the Desert Mojaves. Among them suddenly
The party set out in March,1898, going first to appeared, from the west and south, a strange
Blake Station [Goffs] on the Santa Fe Rail- tribe searching for precious stones among the
road, thence north to Manvel [Barnwell], and rocks, who made friends with the Mojaves,
onward some sixty miles, across the Ivanpah learned about these mines, worked with them
Sink, and up into the mountains ...The region and got great quantities of these stones. These
is conspicuously volcanic in aspect, being people were unlike any other Indians, with
largely covered with outflows of trap or lighter complexions and hair, very peace-
basaltic rock reaching outward from a group able and industrious, and possessed of many
of extinct craters....In canyons and on sides of curious arts. They made these rock carvings
hills are the old turquoise mines, appearing and taught the Mojaves the same things. This
as saucer-like pits,...around them the ground alarmed and excited the Piutes, who distrusted
consists of disintegrated quartz rock, like sand such strange novelties, and thought them
and gravel, full of fragments and little nod- some form of insanity or ‘bad medicine’, and
ules of turquoise. ...Stone tools are abundant resolved on a war of extermination. After
in the old workings, and the indications are a long and desperate conflict, most of the
plain that this locality had been exploited on strangers and Mojaves were slain, since which
a great scale and probably for a long period, time, perhaps a thousand years ago, the mines
and must have been an important source of have been abandoned. Mr. Eisen connects
the turquoise used among ancient Mexicans. this account with the existence of a fair and
...The canyon walls are full of caverns, now reddish-haired tribe, the Mayos (not Mayas),
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
in parts of Sinaloa and Sonora, some of whom Reynolds, R.E., editor, 1988. Cenozoic tectonics in the Halloran Hills,
in This extended land. Cordilleran Section, Geological Society of
may have reached these mines and carried on
America, Field Trip Guidebook:201-222.
a turquoise trade with Mexico. ___, 1988. Structural evolution of the Shadow Valley Basin. Redlands,
San Bernardino County Museum Association Quarterly, 35(3,4).
This region has since [1898–1905] been ___, 1990. Erosion, deposition, and detachment: the Halloran Hills
opened at several points, and at least a dozen sequence. Redlands, San Bernardino County Museum Association
mines are now being worked by various par- Special Publication, SP90-1.
ties, mostly with eastern capital. The principal ___, 1993. Erosion, deposition, and detachment: the Halloran Hills area,
California, p. 21-24, in Extended terranes, California, Arizona, Ne-
work is being done by the Himalaya and vada, D. R. Sherrod and J. E. Nielson, eds. U.S. Geological Survey
Toltec mining companies. The turquoise Bulletin, 2053: 250 p.
obtained, when pure and of good color, is cut Reynolds, R.E. and James Calzia, 1996. Punctuated chaos. San Bernar-
into fine gems;...ornamental stone....and beads. dino County Museum Association Quarterly, 43(1,2):131-134.
Reynolds, R.E., D. Miller, L.M. Vredenburgh, and G. T. Ririe, 1996.
Most of the material produced is sent to New Punctuated chaos: A field trip in the northeastern Mojave Desert. San
York. The yield in 1900 was estimated at a Bernardino County Museum Association Quarterly, 43(1 & 2):3-22.
value of $20,000. Rogers, M. J., 1929. Report of an archaeological reconnaissance in the
Mojave Sink region. San Diego Museum of Man Archaeological
Papers1(1).
Acknowledgments Sigleo, A. C., 1970. Trace-element geochemistry of the southwestern
turquoise. MS thesis on file at the University of New Mexico, Albu-
The author thanks Mr. Ed Nazelrod, Apache Canyon querque.
Mining Company, whose interest in prehistoric mining led ___, 1975. Turquoise mine and artifact correlation for Snaketown Site,
him to save examples of the mine pits, hammers, bone Arizona. Science 189:459-460.
and charcoal, and to provide samples of turquoise for Sperisen, F. J, 1897. Mineral Resources U. S. United States Geological
Survey:504.
study. The late Wilson Turner was instrumental in locating ___, 1938, Gem minerals of California. California Journal of Mines and
petroglyphs figured in 1898 reports. N. Nelson Leonard Geology, 34 (1):34-74.
provided discussions of the dates of cultural material Turner, F. J. and John Verhoogen, 1960. Igneous and metamorphic
associated with the ancient mines. Robert M. Housley pro- petrology. New York, McGraw-Hill Book Co.: 694p.
vided SEM analysis and thoughtful discussion and review.
References cited
Beckerman, G.M., 1982. Petrology of the southern portion of the Teu-
tonia batholith: a large intrusive complex of Jurassic and Cretaceous
age in the eastern Mojave Desert, California. MS thesis, University of
Southern California.
Bishop, K. M., 1994. Mesozoic and Cenozoic extensional tectonics in the
Halloran Hills and Silurian Hills, eastern San Bernardino County,
California. PHd dissertation, University of Southern California. Los
Angeles, California: 252p.
Castor, Stephen B. and Gregory C. Ferdock, 2004. Minerals of Nevada.
Nevada bureau of Mines and Geology, Special Publication 31, and
University of Nevada Press, 512 p.
DeWitt, Edward. H., 1980. Geology and geochronology of the Halloran
Hills, southeastern California, and implications concerning Mesozoic
tectonics of the southwestern cordillera: M. S. thesis: 269p.
Dohrenwend, J. C., S. G. Wells, B. D. Turney, and L. D. Mcfadden,
1984. Rates and trends of Late Cenozoic landscape degredation in
the area of the Cima Volcanic Field, Mojave Desert, California. Geol.
Soc. Amer. Field Guide, Reno, Nevada, p. 101-115.
Eisen, Gustav, 1898. Long lost mines of precious gems are found again,
located in the remotest wilds of San Bernardino County and marked
by strange hieroglyphics. The San Francisco Call, March 18 and 27.
Friedman, J., 1996. Miocene strata below the Shadow Valley basin fill,
eastern Mojave Desert, California. San Bernardino County Museum
Association Quarterly, 43(1,2):123 -127.
Kunz, George F., 1905, Gems, jewelers’ materials and ornamental stones
of California: Cal. State Mining Bureau Bull.37:107-110.
Leonard, N. Nelson and Christopher E. Drover, 1980. Prehistoric
turquoise in the Halloran Springs District, San Bernardino County,
California. Journal of California and Great Basin Anthropology, 2
(2):245-256.
Morrissey, F. R., 1968. Turquoise deposits on Nevada. Nev. Bur. Mines
and Geology Report 17: 30 p.
Murdoch, Joseph, and R.W. Webb, 1966. Minerals of California, Cal.
Div. Mines and Geology, Bull. 189: 559 p.
Pemberton, H. Earl, 1983. Minerals of California. Van Nostrand Rein-
hold Co., New York: 591p.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Introduction site at the War Eagle (Newman and Stewart, 1951). Wood-
In conjunction with a loose collaboration with the
house in personal communications recorded in CDMG
Shoshone Museum, a few members of the Southern Cali-
Bulletin 189 mentioned scorodite from the Noonday in
fornia Friends of Mineralogy and friends including myself,
1945 and aurichalcite from the War Eagle in 1954.
Garth Bricker, Bob Reynolds, Dick Thomssen, and Joe
The Caltech mineral collection has specimens of cerus-
Marty have begun a systematic study of the mineralogy
site from the Columbia no. 2 Mine and galena, anglesite,
of the abandoned lead/zinc/silver mines in the Tecopa
cerussite, aurichalcite, brochantite, and linarite from
Pass area of the Resting Springs mining district. We are
Shoshone Mines, a grouping that included all the above
using scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive
mines, but primarily worked the Columbia no. 2 and
x-ray analysis to identify previously unrecognized miner-
the War Eagle. These were mostly donated by Thomas
als. Most of our efforts so far have been focused on the
Coons in 1954. The Los Angeles County Natural History
Noonday and War Eagle mines where our combined
collections provide a good selection of
samples (Plate 2). Such mines offer an
unparalleled scientific opportunity to find
and study rare minerals that only form in
unusual chemical/geologic environments
and which are insufficiently stable under
surface conditions to ever be found in
natural outcrops. Indeed we have already
found some rare minerals as well as fine
specimens of some more common ones.
These will be described in the main
body of this report after brief discussions
of the history of mining in the area and
of the geological setting of the mines.
The main mines of the area are now
mapped on the USGS 7.5” Tecopa Pass
quadrangle as the Gunsight, the Noon-
day, the Columbia no. 2, and the War
Eagle. The Gunsight also often appears
in the literature as the Gunsite. What
was once known as the Grant Mine is
now considered to be part of the Noon-
day since their underground workings in-
terconnect. It appears that the Columbia
no. 2 was once known as the Noonday
no. 2. There seems to be little documen-
tation of prior studies of the mineralogy
of these mines. The mining literature in-
dicates that the ore minerals were galena
and cerussite at the Gunsight (Hamilton,
Figure 1. Topographic map of study region. Flags show the
1921), galena, cerussite, and smithsonite locations of the main mines in the region as given in the MAS/
at the Noonday (Waring and Huguenin, MILS database as well as the lower dump of the Noonday where
1919), and galena, anglesite, and cerus- we saw good jarosite and the S. E. entrance of the War Eagle.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Museum also has linarite from the War Eagle. mill at Tecopa. By the time Tecopa Consolidated ceased
Figure 1 reproduces the portion of the latest USGS operation in 1928 it is estimated that they had produced
topographic map showing the region we studying. The about $4,000,000 worth of ore.
most recently used south access adit to the War Eagle is The most recent history of the mines (Newman and
labeled “W. E. entrance.” Stewart, 1951) began after 1938 when they were purchased
by Shoshone Mines Incorporated. They were then sold to
History the Finley Company and in June 1947 to Anaconda Cop-
The Balance, the first mine in what came to be known per Mining Company, which operated them as Shoshone
as the Resting Springs mining district, was located by the Mines. Anaconda built a concentrating mill at Noonday
Brown brothers in the spring of 1875. The early history City, and focused their operations in the Columbia no. 2
of the district up through the turn of the century is well and War Eagle Mines. It is estimated that by the time they
summarized by Hensher and Vredenburgh (1997). An- ceased ore production in 1957 that they had produced an
other account of the history for roughly the same period additional $4,000,000 worth of ore (Baltzer, 2004, cited
with pictures is given at http://www.ttrr.org/tt_tocs.html below).
(McCulloch, 2004). From this table of contents page one
needs to go to Tecopa Railroad/Revisiting the Tecopa Geology
Railroad/History. In a nutshell the Balance and other near- The lead/silver mines in the Tecopa Pass area generally
by mines including the Noonday were soon purchased by occur as replacements and vein fillings in roughly north/
Jonas Osborne who formed the Los Angeles Mining Com- south trending fissure veins in the Proterozoic age Noon-
pany in May of 1877 to develop and operate them. This
company then also bought the Gunsight whose discovery
site and subsequent developments are photographically
documented at the above website at Tecopa Railroad/A
look at the Gunsight Mine. Largely because of the remote-
ness of the location and difficulties in processing the ores,
the Los Angeles Mining Company was never a financial
success. Osborne sold his stock in early 1880. The com-
pany ceased operations in July of 1881 after drilling more
than 1000 feet of adit to intersect the Gunsight vein at
depth. Osborne then bought all the property back in 1883
with backing from a San Bernardino banker. He kept the
mines and mill in operating condition waiting for the time
when transportation or processing would be cheaper. At
one point Osborne even built a large steam tractor and
used it to haul a couple of loads of ore to distant railroad
terminals, but this still did not prove profitable.
Things changed in 1906 when the Tonopah and Tide-
water railroad was laid out to pass within a few miles of
Resting Springs. In that same year Osborne and the heirs
of the banker sold their Tecopa holding for $350,000, ap-
parently to the Tecopa Consolidated Mining Company or
to investors that soon formed such a company under the
laws of South Dakota. When the T. and T. was completed
to Tecopa Station in February of 1907, Tecopa Consoli-
dated already had 800 sacks of ore ready for shipment.
The ore was transported the 10 miles or so from the mines
to the station in horse-drawn wagons. By December 1907
Tecopa Consolidated reportedly had 100 men working
and were shipping 100 tons of ore a day from the Noon-
day while they also had reserves in the Gunsight.
By July of 1908 Tecopa Consolidated had started work
on a work on a railroad spur to the Gunsight and Noon-
day Mines. When the company was sold to Philadelphia
investors in November of 1908 it reportedly had reserves
with a net value of $1,650,000 in sight. At some time be-
fore 1919 the company also built a 100 ton concentrating Figure 2. Map begins at southeast entrance of the mine, which is
labeled W. E. entrance in Figure 1.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
to be the rare paratacamite. On a trip in 2004 in the same mm on Pb bearing secondary dolomite and associated
general area, Joe Marty found plattnerite. with other Pb minerals altered to black Pb oxide.
Bob Reynolds has also found hydrozincite veins with Unidentified Cu/Zn sulfate. Similar to material
hemimorphite in rocks on the dump. In an old ore pile describe under War Eagle Mine.
along the road he found galena with cavities containing
anglesite, caledonite, malachite, and cerussite. Concluding thoughts
More detailed descriptions of the Noonday Mine min- I think it is important to emphasize that as long as they
erals I have seen follow. remain open these mines continue to be a treasure trove
Anglesite. Small clear crystals in cavities in galena of interesting minerals waiting to be discovered and stud-
from the ore pile. ied. Even though we report three firsts and two seconds
Bindheimite. Typical yellow powder in cavities in for California as well as a couple of very-good-for-species,
galena of the ore pile and in altered dolomite of surface we have examined a relatively small collection of samples
workings from these mines. It is very likely that if we obtain access
Caledonite. Small but sharp blue green crystals in to more samples we will have to extensively modify the
cavities in galena from the ore pile. tables and mineral lists above. Nonetheless it seems worth-
Cerussite. Druzy yellowish coatings in galena, fre- while to document what we know now. I will be interested
quently associated with caledonite. in hearing from other people with samples from the area
Galena. Small chunks of weathered porous crystal and will try to keep the combined information up to date.
aggregates with small crystal-lined cavities in the ore pile.
Gypsum. Crystals to several mm associated with Disclaimer. This report is intended only to provide his-
other mineralization in the surface workings. torical and scientific information. It is not to be construed
Hemimorphite. Small clear striated crystals associ- as granting permission to enter or study these mines,
ated with hydrozincite from the dump and gypsum and many of which are private property.
other minerals in the surface workings.
Hydrozincite. As about 3 mm veins in altered do- Acknowledgements. First of all I want to thank Garth
lomite from the dump and as small white balls on gypsum Bricker whose cheerful and enthusiastic companionship
in the surface workings. helped make this work a pleasure. I want to thank Bob
Jarosite. Attractive specimens of sparkly reddish Reynolds who first suggested we look at the mineralogy
brown crystals coating surfaces of altered dolomite on of these mines and who provided samples from his col-
dump. lection. I greatly appreciate the help of Dick Thomssen
Linarite. Tiny individual blue crystals on gypsum and Joe Marty who also selected and sent me interesting
from surface workings. samples to study. Joe provided all the serpierite, schulen-
Malachite. Tiny sprays of crystals in cavities in bergite bearing material from the 600 foot level. I want
galena from the ore pile. to thank David Jessey for providing information on the
Paratacamite. Equant deep green crystals to about recent history of the War Eagle and for allowing me to use
0.2 mm on gypsum, and associated with linarite, hemi- his mine map. I also appreciate information provided by
morphite, and an unidentified Cu/Zn sulfate similar to the Stan Bogosian, Carl Moran, and John Samuals.
one found at the War Eagle Mine. Identified from EDX
composition and appearance. First reported occurrence in References
California. Alan Hensher and Larry M Vredenburgh (1997) The early history of the
Plattnerite. Tetragonal black needles to about 0.1 Resting Springs Mining District. San Bernardino Museum Quarterly
44, 67-70.
John F. Mason (1948) Geology of the Tecopa area, Southeast-
ern California. Geological Society of America Bulletin 59,
333-352.
M. A. Newman and D. L. Stewart (1951) Mines and mineral
resources of Inyo County. California Journal of Mines and
Geology 47, 80-81.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
During the last few years a number of rare mineral finds a couple of light yellowish green sprays of the Pb silicate
have been made at Southern California and Nevada des- creaseyite. Later, conichalcite was also found.
ert mines. Each undoubtedly deserves a detailed write-up.
Such a write-up is provided for the War Eagle and Noon- Winter Prospect, El Dorado District, Clark County
day Mines in the volume. For the other mines, it seems (Plate 4)
worthwhile to at least mention the occurrences. This location is listed as being nine miles northwest of
Nelson in “Minerals of Nevada,” and several minerals are
California Mines listed as being found there including the rare chromates
Aga Mine, Baker, San Bernardino County (Plate 3) hemihedrite and iranite. Even though this area is small
In January of 2004 the rare Cu/Pb tellurate parakhinite and difficult to access, during February 2004 additional
was discovered associated with anglesite, pyromorphite, samples of hemihedrite and iranite along with mimetite,
and gold at this mine. Subsequently, besides vanadinite, willemite, and wulfenite were obtained.
mottramite, and cerussite, the additional tellurium miner-
als plumbotellurite, fairbankite, khinite, burckhardtite, and Acknowledgements
moctezumite have been found, although the later two can These finds were a joint result of the combined efforts
only be recognized in the SEM. of Tish Hunter, Walter Margerum, Dick Thomsson, Joe
Marty, Jim Soboleski and myself. The fact that I have writ-
Bagdad-Chase Mine, Ludlow, San Bernardino ten this listing should not imply that my role was greater
County (Plate 3) than any of the others.
In January of 2003 exceptionally fine crystals of the Bi/
Pb oxychloride perite were found associated with colorless References
Minerals of Nevada (2004), Stephan B. Castor and Gregory C. Ferdock,
mimetite and wulfenite at this mine. Other minerals occur- Nevada Bureau of Mines and Geology special publication 31, Univer-
ring here include duftite, hedyphane, malachite, goethite, sity of Nevada Press.
hematite, and cerussite.
Nevada Mines
Boss Mine, Goodsprings (Yellow Pine) District,
Clark County (Plate 4)
Nissonite from the Boss Mine is listed in “Minerals of
Nevada”, (Castor and Ferdock, 2004). In February of 2004
two more good quality samples of this Mg/Cu phosphate
were found on the 200-foot level dump of the mine. This
brings to four the total number of pieces of nissonite that
have been found there during the last 10 years. This latest
nissonite is on gossan and is associated with dendritic
malachite pseudomorphs, probably after cuprite.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Rich Hill, also known as Weaver District No. 2, is among afternoon than Nevada mine workers will ever see outside
the most productive placer gold localities in Arizona. of the mill.
Located near Congress, Arizona, this district hosted major Inspired northeastward by Spanish legends, a party
placer rushes in the 1860s and 1930s, followed by an elec- of ten men left Yuma, Arizona on April 1, 1863, includ-
tronic metal-detecting rush that started in the 1980s and ing Pauline Weaver, Henry Wickenburg, and Abraham
continues to this day. Thousands of ounces of gold have Peeples. Wickenburg left the group near the Hassayampa
been produced by these modern amateur and professional River and discovered the Vulture Deposit. The rest of
metal detectorists, many of whom see more gold in an the group arrived at the base of Rich Hill in late May.
While drying antelope meat on
the first day, a few of the men
prospected a nearby creek bed
and immediately found gold. In
a couple of hours they picked
up over 90 ounces of gold. The
next day, four members of the
party went searching for their
horses, and returned with news
that a nearby hilltop was literally
graveled with nuggets. The next
morning the party went to the
top of the “Rich Hill” and found
chunks of native gold as big as
potatoes littering the ground of
a gently sloping basin, hence the
depression’s nickname “Potato
Patch.” During the height of
the following rush, Weaver was
bringing in twenty-five pounds of
gold each week, and placer min-
ers averaged sixty-five dollars
each day. Over 25,000 ounces
of gold were found around Rich
Hill in the first five years.
After several years the easy
placer gold was mined out.
The area started to attract men
like Charles Stanton who were
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Figure 5. The Octave Mine in the late 1890’s. In the upper left
corner is the #2 shaft and headframe. The mill, to the center-right,
Figure 3. Charles P. Stanton in front of “his” store. Courtesy of was connected to the shaft by an elevated wooden tramway.
Sharlot Hall Museum. Courtesy of Sharlot Hall Museum.
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To study history you either go to some books and other party. The forty guests were instead asked to contribute
documents or you go talk to the people that lived it. The to a money tree. After the fried chicken dinner and the
sad truth is that you miss some of these people. One per- required singing of Happy Birthday, a birthday cake was
son I have discovered in my history searches that I wish I presented which had one big candle.
could have met is Hubert Tecumseh Miller. Miller’s celebration did not end at the party. On
Miller was born in St. Joseph, Missouri on December December 30 Art Linkletter invited him to his television
4, 1858. His father served under General William Tecum- show. After they talked Linkletter presented Miller with
seh Sherman in the Civil War. After Missouri, the family a gift. He had a number of showgirls escort Miller on an
moved west in a Conestoga wagon. Miller remembered overnight trip to Las Vegas. “I loved every minute of it.”
his father telling him of the move, “When I was five Miller was quoted as saying about the trip. Miller must
months old he put me in an ox cart and we headed west.” have been a good guest because Linkletter invited him
They first settled in Yuma, Arizona. back again January 19, 1960.
As a young man Miller became a prospector. He Also in 1960 Miller made it into the record books. He
spent the next seventy years looking for gold. In 1880–82 signed on as worker for the 1960 census. At 101 years old
he worked at Calico. The places that Miller claimed to he was the oldest census taker for that census and may
have explored stretched from Central America to Alaska. have been the oldest in history. The Desert Dispatch ran
About his mining success he was quoted as saying, “Al- a picture of Miller, in his best suit looking like the typical
though I have found some rich pockets I never made a grizzled prospector with a beard down to his chest, getting
fortune. I was never smart enough for that.” He worked his instructions from R.J. Steck the Director of the Barstow
mines until 1953 when he was temporarily blinded by Census. The picture was picked up by the news service
dynamite dust. UPI and was run by several papers nationwide. His work
He married in 1882, his wife dying 11 years later in on the census also got him a mention in the Ripley’s Be-
Alaska giving birth to their fifth child. Miller outlived all lieve it or Not comic strip.
of his children. In 1941, he left Alaska and moved back to After his work on the census I had a hard time finding
our desert area, still looking for a gold strike. At one time
or another he claimed Lone Pine, Bishop, Palmdale, and
Lancaster as home. Once he quit prospecting and worked
as a dealer in Reno, Nevada.
On Sunday December 5, 1958 his friends, Mr. and
Mrs. Eisenhower (the paper did not give their first names
and they seemed to be no relation to President Eisen-
hower) threw him a 100th birthday party. Mrs. Eisenhower
first met Miller in Daggett when she contacted him while
working for the Emergency Welfare Relief of Barstow.
The party was held at Will’s Café that was located out of
town on the old road to Needles and Las Vegas, High-
way 91. Mayor George Oakes started the celebration by
reading a birthday greeting from President Eisenhower.
The next speaker was Leonard Nunally, a representative
from the National Distillery Company of Beverly Hills,
who presented Miller with a bottle of Old Crow whiskey,
a fitting gift because when Miller was asked about his
secret to long life, he said, “I have been trying to find that Miller on the way to the
out myself. I guess have drunk just the right amount of Art Linkletter show in
whiskey to preserve me.” There were no other gifts at the 1960.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Extremely well preserved ichnofossils including tracks Approximately seventy percent of the Copper Canyon
and trackways of mammals and birds occur abundantly Unit consists of fanglomerates that underlie and interfinger
throughout the fluviolacustrine deposits of the Copper with fluviolacustrine deposits (Drewes, 1963). The fan-
Canyon Unit. The Copper Canyon Unit was deposited glomerates represent alluvium deposits that accumulated
in an ancient lake that attracted an abundant and diverse before and during the fluviolacustrine sequence.
fauna to its muddy shores, leaving their tracks as evidence The fluviolacustrine deposits consist of lower, middle
of their activities. To date, thirty-six ichnospecies of cat, and upper sub-units (Figure 1). The lower sub-unit depos-
camel, horse, mastodon, and bird tracks have been identi- its are dominated by claystones, siltstones and debris flows
fied from the fluviolacustrine sediments (Nyborg, 1998; reflecting an initial unit of fluviolacustrine deposits. Up
Nyborg and Santucci, 2000). section within the lower middle sub-unit, the claystones
Two conflicting dates were previously reported for the are replaced by the evaporite gypsum, which reflects
Copper Canyon Unit (Scrivner, 1986; Holm et al., 1994). hypersaline standing water conditions and evaporation.
New age constraints confirm that the Copper Canyon Unit Further up section within the middle sub-unit the gypsum
was deposited approximately between 6 to 3 Ma. More layers become rare and lacustrine shoreline facies are
importantly, new age data place further time constraints prominent, preserving lingoid ripples, raindrops, mud-
on the vertebrate tracks (Figure 1). cracks, and mammal and bird tracks in abundance. At
The Copper Canyon Unit consists of carbonates, the upper sub-unit limestone beds are prominent. Within
evaporates, shales, claystones, siltstones, sandstones, con- these limestone beds ostrocodes and gastropods are com-
glomerates, and basalt flows exposed within Copper and mon and shoreline features are absent. The transition
Coffin Canyons, Black Mountains, Death Valley National from middle to upper sub-units probably reflects a transi-
Park (Figure 1). The sequence includes over 3000 meters tion from shoreline to freshwater conditions. At the top of
of basin sediments deposited in a tectonic setting involving the upper sub-unit the Copper Canyon Unit is eroded and
large magnitude extension, normal faulting, basin forma- unconformably overlain by younger conglomerates of the
tion, deposition, and subsequent uplift (Drewes, 1963; Funeral Formation (Drewes, 1963).
Otton, 1977; Holm, 1992; Holm et al., 1994; Wright et al., The Copper Canyon Unit is contained and well ex-
1999; Miller and Prave, 2002) (Figure 1). Since the initia- posed within a five square mile rectangular fault bounded
tion of extensional faulting, which began about 14Ma, low basin (Figure 1). Structurally the Copper Canyon Unit
angle normal faults, called detachments, have uplifted the has been synclinally folded and tilted to the southeast
Black Mountains and formed associated basins (Wright (Drewes, 1963). There are quite a few small northwest-
et al., 1999). Within these basins a succession of middle trending normal faults within the lower section, but
Miocene through Pliocene fluvial, lacustrine, and alluvial displacement is minimal.
sediments and volcanic flows that define the Furnace The Copper Canyon Unit is sandwiched between the
Creek Basin and the northern portion of Death Valley Ba- Badwater Turtleback to the north and the Copper Canyon
sin accumulated (Wright et al., 1991, 1999). Four deposits, Turtleback to the south (Figure 1). Turtlebacks represent
the Artist Drive (14-6 Ma), Furnace Creek (6-5 Ma), and low angle thrust faults that occurred during the extension
Funeral formations (5-3 Ma), and the Copper Canyon and subsequent uplift of the Black Mountains (Curry,
(6-3Ma) Unit, form the Cenozoic basin sediment deposits 1938, 1954; Holm et al., 1994; Miller and Prave, 2002).
associated with the uplifting of the Black Mountains and On the east, rocks of the Copper Canyon Unit are
formation of the Furnace Creek and Death Valley basins unconformably in fault contact with conglomerates of
(McAllister, 1970; Fleck, 1970; Cemen and Wright, 1988; the Funeral Formation (Drewes, 1963) (Figure 1). On
Wright et al., 1991; Wright et al., 1999; Miller and Prave, the south, rocks of the Copper Canyon Unit are in fault
2002). contact with Precambrian metasedimentary rocks of the
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Figure 1. Aerial photograph of Copper and Coffin Canyons with age determinations reported herein. Aerial photo from USGS. The
fluviolacustrine deposits have been divided into lower, middle, and upper units.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
bedrock, feasibil-
ity of repair method
and resolution of the
private land issues
associated with the
road right of way and
damaged slope areas
prior to making the
decision of which
mitigation measure to
use. It is not known
at the time of this
writing which design
scheme the City of
Arcadia will decide to
adopt.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Additional landslides
The remaining land-
canyon another 100 feet below. The material was similar slides are variable in
in composition to that of the Pine Slide and was made up nature and range from slope wash to small debris flows
of medium grey coarse-grained sands with abundant rock to rock falls and slides. Many of these only cover the
and boulders. It also contained a significant amount of downhill lane of the canyon road. There is a section of
plant debris and gunite pieces that had previously covered road within the City of Monrovia’s jurisdiction that has
the slope. The volume of this slide was between 1500 to collapsed. This stretch of road is about 200 feet long and
2000 cubic yards. the retaining wall and road support has fallen away along
Over the course of the next several weeks the local the uphill lane. The materials within these additional slides
residents worked on removing the slide debris. Much of vary in composition from poorly consolidated materials
the initial work was done using hand tools and wheelbar- similar to those of the Arcadia slide to sands mixed with
rows. In seven weeks almost one third of the debris was rocks and boulders similar to the Pine and Dam Access
cleared by hand. During the eighth week a 918 front-end slides. Much of the cleanup for these slides falls within the
loader was utilized to complete removal of the slide. The jurisdiction of LA County Public Works Road Depart-
most difficult parts of the slide debris to remove were the ment.
pieces of gunite and vegetation within the slide mass. The
slide materials were stockpiled for removal from the can- Human Impacts
yon once the Arcadia section of road was cleared. There are three permanent residents, 81 recreational
Removal of this slide was essential to allow transporta- cabins and a U.S. Forest Service Fire station within the
tion of materials between the Arcadia slide and the dam. canyon. All of these have been severely impacted by the
Transport includes people and supplies such as food, road closure due to the slides. The fire personnel have
(both human and animal), fuel for use at the dam, and been relocated but the equipment is still trapped. A pri-
any other items required for normal dam operation. One vate contractor for the U.S. Forest Service also has had his
lane of the Santa Anita Canyon road was subsequently equipment trapped. His cost to air lift the equipment out
cleared both below and above the dam to allow supplies is a prohibitive $90,000 (that does not include his 29,000
to be transported between the lower and upper Santa pound dump truck). There are a total of 12 vehicles
Anita Canyon road slides for those individuals living at trapped behind the slide areas, five of which are at the
Chantry Flat, the Pack Station animals and canyon cabin dam. As mentioned before, supplies have to be carried in
owners. Previously, all supplies had to be carried in and and out by hand. From the Arcadia slide to Chantry it is a
out with the use of backpacks, wheelbarrows, and the oc- 2.5 mile hike. From the Arcadia slide to Santa Anita Dam
casional use of donkeys from the local Pack Station. it is ¾ mile. There is no trash pick up and forestry person-
Several areas of the Dam Access Road have been com- nel have difficulty getting to their work stations. Many of
promised by slope creep during the heavy rains. Visqueen the canyons hiking trails have suffered significant dam-
weighted with sandbags was placed over the slope during age and will need to be rebuilt. Several cabin owners are
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Conclusions
The storm season of 2005 has brought significant
changes to Big Santa Anita Canyon. Record rainfall
amounts caused extensive road damage. This in turn
has made it difficult for the residents, federal and county
personnel, cabin owners and the Pack Station. Numerous
landslides of varying nature and size have either covered
or destroyed the access roads lying within different city,
county and federal jurisdictions. Unfortunately for the
City of Arcadia the damage is quite significant and costly.
Several mitigation schemes have been proposed for this
slide but a decision has yet to be made. Since Arcadia has
jurisdiction over the lower most damaged area, the other
involved agencies must wait to begin repairs until the City
of Arcadia completes theirs. It is difficult to tell when the
road will completely reopen. It is hoped that some type of
emergency access will be available by early fall. It could
be two to three years before complete reopening of the
canyon to the public. In the meantime, the hikers and
bikers will enjoy the canyon trails and the residents and
cabin owners will pretend they are once again living in the
1930’s as they continue to hike their supplies in and out
while living in their corner of the wilderness.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Abstracts of Proceedings
2005 Desert Symposium
Robert E. Reynolds (compiler), LSA Associates, Inc. 1650 Spruce Street, Suite 500, Riverside, CA 92507. bob.reyn-
olds@lsa-assoc.com
Dense-boned late Miocene and Pliocene the added buoyancy that they might have encountered in
fossil walruses of the Imperial Desert more saline inland waters that were affected by evapora-
tion.
and Baja California: possible buoyancy-
control mechanisms for feeding on
Baker Hill: A landslide landform with a
benthic marine invertebrates in the
possible Miocene analog exposed at Old
Proto-Gulf of California
Lawrence G. Barnes, Dept of Vertebrate Paleontol-
Dad Mountain, Eastern Mojave Desert,
ogy, Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County, 900 California
Exposition Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90007. lbarnes@ Kim M. Bishop, Department of Geological Sciences, Cali-
nhm.org fornia State University, Los Angeles, 5151 State Universi-
ty Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90032. kbishop@calstatela.edu
Strange walrus-like fossil pinnipeds have been found in
marine deposits of Late Miocene and Pliocene age in Baker Hill, 0.5 km west of Baker, California forms an
the Imperial Desert of California and in Baja California, outcrop of Pennsylvanian Bird Spring Formation 1.2
Mexico. The first such discovery was latest Miocene Va- km long by 0.4 km wide. The hill rises 80 m above the
lenictus imperialensis Mitchell, 1961, found in the Imperial alluvial fan materials that surround it. Localized breccia-
Group near Ocotillo Well, Imperial County, California. It tion and an out-of-place setting relative to nearby bedrock
differs from other pinnipeds by having a humerus that is outcrops indicates that the hill represents a landslide mass.
very large in mass (pachyostotic) and very dense (osteo- Given the present geomorphology, a possible interpreta-
sclerotic), the latter resulting from greatly reduced marrow tion is that Baker Hill is a block glide that detached from
cavity. In exposures of the Pliocene marine Salada Forma- its source area and moved across the low gradient surface
tion near Santa Rita, Baja California Sur, México, isolated it rests upon. If so, then the mechanics of movement are
bones have been discovered that represent at least four difficult to explain because friction should be too great to
species of fossil pinnipeds, all apparently new species. This allow sliding.
southerly assemblage of pinnipeds is the most diverse of A possible analog for the Baker Hill landslide is
its age to be documented in Baja California Sur, and it exposed on the east side of Old Dad Mountain. Here, a
is unusual by being dominated, both taxonomically and rock avalanche intercalated within an erosionally dissected
numerically, by walruses and walrus-like pinnipeds. One Miocene fanglomerate sequence is exposed in cross-sec-
of these is a large typical sea lion of the subfamily Otarii- tion. Across most of its 4 km width, the rock avalanche is
nae, and may have resembled the living Steller’s sea lion. a relatively thin sheet-like deposit with an average thick-
The three other species, however, are all various kinds of ness of 15 m. However, in the central part, the deposit
walruses. One is a typical walrus of the subfamily Odobe- contains a hummock about 1 km wide and 200 m thick.
ninae, and resembles the living Arctic walrus. A second Conceptualizing the evolution of the rock avalanche’s ex-
species is a new species of Valenictus. The third species posure after it was buried, it is logical that after a period of
is a very strange walrus that is even more highly evolved time following emplacement, the sheet-like portion of the
than Valenictus, and it is a new genus and new species. deposit was buried and the hummock stood as an isolated
The latter two species, like Valenictus imperialensis, both hill surrounded by an alluvial plain.
exhibit pachyostosis and osteosclerosis. These phenomena Based on the Old Dad Mountain rock avalanche, an
seem to characterize highly derived extinct walrus-like pin- alternative interpretation to the block glide model for
nipeds of Late Miocene and Pliocene age that lived in the Baker Hill is that the hill is part of a rock avalanche that
region of Baja California and the Proto-Gulf of California, is now mostly buried. In this model, the hill represents a
and might have been buoyancy control specializations hummock embedded in a much more extensive sheet-like
that facilitated bottom-feeding on invertebrates. The pres- deposit. A rock avalanche interpretation presents a viable
ence of these strange, specialized walrus-like animals in explanation for the movement of the landslide mass across
the Proto-Gulf of California also raises the possibility that a low gradient because rock avalanches are known for
their adaptations might have also helped them overcome moving with very low apparent friction.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Goldminer in a fluffy hat: Dr Rose is due to both the complexities of the natural system and
Burcham (1857-1944), Randsburg’s “New to the fact that the focus of many previous analyses was on
mineral exploitation rather than paleoenvironmental stud-
Woman”
ies. Consequently, lake level chronology is known largely
Lorraine Blair, PhD, Randsburg, CA 93554.
from Smith’s geochemical analyses of cores taken in the
In 1894 Hutchinson & Company of London, England lakebed itself without any comprehensive studies of extant
published a new novel about the budding phenomena shorelines within the overall Searles basin.
of traditional-role defying “new women” titled A Yellow In the present research, 22 new radiocarbon determina-
Aster. Several years later the name of a new gold mine in tions derived from tufa recovered in backhoe trenches,
California’s Mojave Desert was changed from the Rand archaeological test units, and drainage exposures located
Mine to The Yellow Aster. Coincidence? I suggest not. within the Searles basin were supplemented by sediment
Particularly when one of the major players beginning that analyses, obsidian hydration measurements, and pollen
very successful mining operation was Dr Rose Victoria La- analysis. Combined with dates found in the literature,
Monte Burcham, a brilliant and tough-minded gold miner these new data provide considerably more temporal con-
who performed most of her duties wearing, seemingly as trol over actual lake stands than was previously available
a crown of status achievement, one of her stylish, veiling- Refinement of these data allowed the identification
and-feather-encrusted fluffy hats. Over the Randsburg desk of 10 phases that alternate between wet and dry periods
of this corseted figure passed, for her scrutiny, every piece for the last 30,000 yr B.P. and point to the likely occur-
of the gold mine’s legal paperwork. rence of a major fluvial event dating to around 18,800
In the late nineteenth century some in the Anglo-Amer- B.P. Contrary to previous interpretations suggesting near
ican world were beginning to question the marginaliza- complete desiccation during the Holocene, it also appears
tion of women in society. Dr Rose’s career and personal that regional precipitation increased around 6600 14C yr
life story provide a new perspective on women’s place in B.P. resulting in a final lake high stand.
late nineteenth century mining towns. Rose became very
well known for her unique career coupled with her self-
described “imperative mode.” In addition to numerous Calico Site choppers and chopping tools:
mentions in local and Los Angeles newspapers, she was
morphological and use-wear patterns
featured in early twentieth century periodicals including
Fred E. Budinger, Jr., Calico Project Director, Friends
Sunset Magazine and London’s Wide World Magazine. Dr
of Calico Early Man Site, Inc. 2024 Orange Tree Lane,
Rose was even named one of the “Men of Achievement”
Redlands, CA 92374. Fbudinger@aol.com
in a book published by the Los Angeles Times in 1904.
The history of the American West suffers greatly from In the Old World, unifacially-flaked choppers and bifacial-
the mythology created and perpetrated by radio, televi- ly worked chopping tools were amongst the earliest stone
sion, and the movies. In-depth research is necessary to tools invented by early man. Such forms are also found
separate western myth from western reality—a reality that in early New World tool kits such as that recovered at the
even includes an exceedingly successful gold miner whose Calico Site near Yermo, California (see photos of repre-
workday attire often included a fluffy hat. sentative specimens at www.calicodig.com). The Calico
Site is the oldest stone tool workshop and quarry site yet
discovered in the United States. Its major sub-surface com-
Investigation of terminal Pleistocene ponent is currently dated between 100ka and 200ka.
This presentation briefly reviews the morphological
shorelines at Searles Lake, Kern County,
and use-wear patterns of 20 selected choppers and chop-
Luz Ramirez de Bryson, Post Archaeologist, National
ping tools recovered at the Calico Site. Diagnostic use-
Training Center, Fort Irwin, CA 92310.
wear is evinced by very small step-flakes on striking edges.
During the late Quaternary, Searles Lake was part of a The Calico Site is still regarded as problematic among
complex network of lakes and rivers beginning in the many American archaeologists. Use-wear patterns offer yet
Mono Basin to the northwest and ending 350 miles down- another line of evidence that Calico is a bona fide site.
stream in Death Valley. Fluvial sediment generated by
alpine glaciers in the Sierra Nevada was transported down
the Owens River to the Owens Basin, and then carried Surprise Canyon EIS
southward to Little Lake and on to China Lake. Much of Richard Crowe, Bureau of Land Management, Califor-
this sediment load was finally deposited in Searles Lake. nia Desert District. rcrowe@ca.blm.gov
The Searles Basin went through a rather complex series
of fills and desiccations over the past 35,000 years driven The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and Death
by an array of environmental factors affecting the entire Valley National Park (DVNP) are jointly preparing an En-
Owens pluvial lake system. Attempting to unravel this vironmental Impact Statement (EIS) for Surprise Canyon
sequence has proven to be a daunting task. This situation (Canyon) to amend their respective land use plans on two
points: designations for Surprise Canyon Road (Road)
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
for casual use vehicle access and suitability of the canyon stem” to Panamint City.
stream as a Wild and Scenic River (WSR). The issues The nature of vehicle access since 1984, given the ab-
have high public sensitivity and reflect a shift in public sence of road maintenance and greatly reduced numbers
attitudes over recent years. of vehicles, on the canyon’s physical and biological values
The Canyon lies on the west side of the Panamint is probably less impacting than before 1984, however the
Mountains, south of Telescope Peak. Its two unique issues involved are much greater and complex today. That
features are the historic mining town, Panamint City, and the two halves of the canyon are managed by BLM and
a perennial stream with waterfalls and riparian habitats DVNP suggests that the two agencies should coordinate
and species. Threading through the Canyon is the historic their management, but the difference in management
Road, which has provided access—first wagons, then mo- mandates for the agencies adds yet further complication
torized vehicles and hiking—to Panamint City since 1874. for analysis and decision. Given the intensity and com-
For decades after mining faded the Road was a favored plexity of the issues, regardless of the EIS decision, yet
recreation touring attraction, especially for visitors to another lawsuit is sure to follow.
Death Valley National Monument. In 1984 a key portion
of the Road washed out, and with it the remainder of any
mining and road maintenance interest. General public Drought and population decline in a
vehicle access was rendered impossible due to the expo- Mojave Desert plant parasite at the
sure of several waterfalls in a stretch of Canyon 1000 feet
long that had been covered with road base for 110 years. Granite Mountains, CA.
Following the flood the extreme difficulty of the Canyon Thomas R. Huggins, University of California, Los
and Road was discovered by 4-wheel drive enthusiasts Angeles, CA 90095
for its rock-crawling sport value. At the same time, with Asphondylia auripila is a tiny gall-forming fly that produces
greatly reduced vehicle access and the process of natural a large, filamentous gall on the stems of creosote bush
reclamation, they were also discovered by hikers. Today, (Larrea tridentata). During my six-year study of A. auripila
the Canyon’s natural, cultural, scenic, and recreation galls at the Granite Mountains, California, gall numbers
values are outstanding in their own right, unique in the have precipitously declined. In 1999, some shrubs had
aggregate, and regionally superlative for both hiking and heavier gall-loads than one would expect at random (i.e.
rock crawling. galls were clumped on certain creosote bushes), and these
For more than 100 years the road and vehicle use were patterns in gall-loads between shrubs appear to persist
almost considered a “given,” a tradition of mineral access through time. Some differences in gall-load between
and recreation touring. BLM management, extending the shrubs can be explained by shrub size. The recent A.
entire length of the Canyon at that time, and including auripila gall population contraction is likely the result
the designation of the road as “Open”, was defined in of recent drought conditions at the Granite Mountains.
the early 1980s in compliance with Federal Land Policy Asphondylia auripila may be particularly vulnerable to
and Management Act (FLPMA), in consideration of the drought because of its high transpirational surface-area. If
Endangered Species and Clean Water acts. Little public A. auripila is sensitive to water stress, differences in creo-
concern for the environmental effects of vehicle use was sote bush water status may explain the original clumped
expressed. Since 1984, however, several events occurred distribution observed in the 1999 gall population.
to change the status quo, some setting the stage for and
culminating in the action of this EIS: the end of min-
ing and road maintenance, increasing polarization over Protohistoric diseases in southern
vehicle access, increased environmental awareness and
California: a view from the Portola
non-vehicle recreation, and the 1994 California Desert
Protection Act (creating the Surprise Wilderness Area Expedition
and placing the upper half of the Canyon into DVNP). In Frederick W. Lange, LSA Associates-Riverside Office,
2001 BLM closed vehicle access in the lower canyon due 1650 Spruce St. Suite 500, Riverside, CA 92507. fred.
to a lawsuit filed by several environmental entities. DVNP lange@lsa-assoc.com
closed its portion shortly after. The temporary nature of In the past decade, various scholars have begun to
both closures will end with an EIS decision. BLM’s 2002 explore the evidence for the protohistoric impact of Old
Northern & Eastern Mojave (NEMO) Plan included an World epidemic diseases on indigenous California popula-
eligible finding for the lower portion of the Canyon for tions, prior to the arrival of the first overland expeditions.
designation under the WSR Act. Both agencies are re- While they have summarized data for southern California,
quired by policy to address WSR values in land use plans. most of the detailed emphasis has been on the Chumash,
Out of concern for these initiatives two sets of 4x4 vehicle for whom the previous research and data-base are the
groups recently purchased two parcels of private land at strongest. These studies have also noted the difficulty of
Panamint City area to establish what they hope will be a evaluating the data for a protohistoric population disaster
right of vehicle access through the non-wilderness “cherry on the basis of archaeological investigations.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
Renewed archaeological research at the Tomato Springs along the Mormon Trail in 1849 by members
Springs site (ORA-244) in 2003 and 2004 refocused atten- of the Mormon wagon train making its way to Rancho
tion on the Gaspar de Portola expedition in 1769. More Chino. It was recorded in Los Angeles County since San
than 200 years after the first opportunities had occurred Bernardino County didn’t exist until 1853. Earlier immi-
for the introduction of European diseases to southern grants and travelers undoubtedly looked for minerals, but
California, Portola and his party passed through Tomato didn’t legally record their findings. The recording at Salt
Springs and points farther north leading to the Monterey Springs brought a flurry of mining activity to San Bernar-
Peninsula, leaving their eye witness accounts. dino County, and particularly to the Mojave Desert, which
Brown (2001) made a major contribution to the study continues to this very day.
of the Portola expeditions by carefully re-examining the This is not a search for “lost mines” or “rivers of gold”,
various versions of the Crespi diaries and of others who but for lost and forgotten data that has been deposited
accompanied Portola on his explorations. His recent work in various repositories and odd places that needs to be
is the most complete and reliable and, for the first time, gathered together and put in one place where anyone
allows us to fully view the indigenous population as it was who needs to do research can find it, complete with refer-
along the route, not once, but three times. ences. At the beginning of my quest, I was looking for the
This paper recounts the actual sightings of persons names and locations of mines as well as district data and
and villages as well artifacts which indicate contact with the people involved in the mines, but it quickly became
external peoples and therefore potentially, and probably, apparent that there were mountains of data, so I separated
their diseases. my research into categories and decided that finding the
Finally, following the same precautions as those districts was the basic building block for further research.
expressed for the Chumash research, the paper closes I got data and encouragement from Ted Weasma and
by assessing the potential for archaeological research to Larry Vredenburg,, which has been incorporated into my
contribute to protohistoric population research. We also database. I want to thank them both.
briefly examine whether the independent nature of disease Creating a mining district is much like creating a corpo-
vectors supersedes the need for precise archaeological ration. You need to designate a hierarchy, delineate your
data. boundaries, and have a product. All this needs to be re-
corded with the county in which you are located and with
the proper state & federal agencies as necessary. You need
The Search for Mining Districts to keep accurate records and provide help and other ser-
Robin Laska, Archaeological Information Center, San vices to your members or mine owners. A mining district
Bernardino County Museum, Redlands CA 92374. has members with a product that needs to be refined and
rlaska@sbcm.sbcounty.gov shipped to market. They need a mill, living spaces, roads,
transportation, and someone to sell the product to the end
When I began my study of mining, I was told that there user. This is a simple model, but you get the idea. This
had only been 20 to 25 mining districts in San Bernardino mining district may decide to sell out to a new “owner”
County in its 150 years of history. Sources included Divi- and that requires a new name, a new corporate structure,
sion of Mines publications, Journal of Geology, books on and lots of paperwork just to keep the mines operating
mines, and state and federal geologists who, one would without skipping a heartbeat.
think, would have a good handle on this subject. I also
talked to county personnel and found that this county
didn’t have a list of mines in the county, much less mining
districts. Several different agencies had a few pieces of
Sourcing the green pigment from
information, but only the County Archives, the BLM and Newberry Cave
National Archives had any data older than 1995. To add Amy Leska, Lompoc, CA; Robert M. Housley, 210
to the confusion, the county became smaller in acreage in S. Catalina Ave. #3, Pasadena CA 91106. rhousley@its.
1893 when Inyo and Riverside Counties were formed and caltech.edu
land formerly in San Bernardino County now was in oth- Approximately 3500 years ago, Native Americans visited
ers. Add to that the fact that the California–Nevada state a cave in the Newberry Mountains. These natives, most
line was also found to be in error and that played havoc likely men, painted the wall faces in green (approximately
with property ownership. In the two years or so that I 68%), with some white and red. At the present time, New-
have been studying this, I have come up with 111 mining berry Cave is the only place in the Mojave Desert known
districts! A couple are questionable, but most are cited in to have green pigment in its rock art. It is also the only
reputable publications, location papers at the County Ar- archaic site in the Mojave with prehistoric pictographs
chives, or on maps of the county. Some have been spelled of animals, as well as the only site known with split twig
several ways, but are easy to recognize. figurines and rock art, making it a truly unique place.
As far as I can determine, the first mine to be located What process did these Native Americans employ to
and recorded within the county boundaries was at Salt make those green paintings? First, gathering the green
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
mineral was important. Several chunks were left behind in tain alunitized Mesozoic quartz monzonite, cupriferous
the cave, collected thousands of years later and studied. Miocene gravels, and phosphate-rich Pliocene basalts, a
Examination under a scanning electron microscope (SEM) combination that has allowed ground water to precipitate
determined the green pigment is composed of celadon- turquoise—copper aluminum phosphate. Although gener-
ite, found fairly commonly in volcanic rocks. It gives the ally botryoidal, turquoise also fills voids and replaces origi-
greenish color to some volcanic ash layers and frequently nal minerals in miarolitic cavities in the Teutonia quartz
occurs in pure form in vesicles in basalts. Celadonite is monzonite pluton. Turquoise mining in the Halloran Hills
generally formed by hot water alteration of volcanic rocks has continued from 500 A. D. to the present: over one
so it is not uniformly distributed in a volcanic unit. It is thousand years of mining.
localized to areas where the rock interacted with water for
a substantial period of time while it was still hot. There are
outcrops containing celadonite in the Newberry Moun-
tains within easy walking distance of the cave. Paleoenvironmental and geochemical
The celadonite from Newberry Cave was generally analysis of arthropod-bearing lacustrine
very fine grained and homogeneous, suggesting it was deposits, Black Canyon, Barstow
ground down, perhaps mixed with water and reformed Formation, southern California
into chunks or balls. The SEM examination found no Rodney Spencer, Department of Earth and Biologi-
evidence of a binder. One ball had a hole drilled through cal Sciences, Loma Linda University, Loma Linda, CA
the center, so it could be carried on a string. Another had 92350. Rspencer04g@ns.llu.edu
a small twig embedded. These portable paint balls were
then ground down again to a paint-like consistency. It A new arthropod-bearing concretion locality, consisting
was then applied to the cave walls, atlatl shafts, and other of three distinct horizons, has recently been reported in
objects, most likely with ceremony, in enduring designs the Black Canyon area, approximately 30 km west of the
still visible today. Barstow Formation type section in the Mud Hills. Previous
studies have focused on the systematic paleontology of the
arthropod fauna from the Calico Mountains and correla-
tion of the microfossil horizons between Black Canyon,
Lost lakes of the east Mojave Desert:
the Mud Hills, and the Calico Mountains. However, little
rediscovery and recreation potential. research has been conducted on the sedimentology and
William Presch, Desert Studies Center, Zzyzx, CA. mineralogy associated with the concretions and no previ-
wpresch@exchange.fullerton.edu ous research has been conducted on the sediments associ-
The recent rains in southern California resulted in the fill- ated with the Black Canyon concretions.
ing of the water supply reservoirs for most of San Diego, The objectives of this study are to: 1) describe the pa-
Orange, Riverside and San Bernardino counties. Addition- leoenvironment and geochemical conditions under which
al rains have forced the water agencies to release water the arthropod-bearing concretions formed within Black
from the reservoirs to make room for snow melt and any Canyon; 2) determine if cycles of events occurred within
additional rains that may occur in the next month. The the concretion-bearing section and within each of the
effects of released water from the Silverwood reservoir three distinct, concretion-bearing horizons; 3) describe the
and the flow of water down the Mojave River resulted in lacustrine sediments associated with the concretions and;
a large volume of water flowing through dry river basins, 4) compare the sedimentology and mineralogy associ-
causing damage to county and private infrastructure and ated with the concretions from Black Canyon with those
filling some of the lost dry lakes of the east Mojave Desert. reported from the Calico Mountains.
Rainfall data at selected sites at the source of the river and The preliminary results of this study suggest: 1) cyclic
along the Mojave River and photographs of the resultant events were responsible for the three microfossil horizons,
down stream flow will be presented. Recreational opportu- possibly the result of lake transgressions and regressions;
nities, unseen for 50 years, have resulted in an increase in 2) cyclic patterns within each individual fossil horizon in
the number of users and a “flood” of people to view the the Black Canyon consist of alternating carbonate and
wildflower bloom. mudstone beds with intermittent gypsum beds.
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The 2005 Desert Symposium
complete, approximately two million year old stratigraphic clays for pottery, sand for pottery temper, and pigments
record of predominantly playa and lacustrine deposition. for various uses.
The transition from a closed-basin playa to the through-
flowing ancestral Mojave River and ancient Lake Manix is
recorded by these Plio-Pleistocene strata. Sediments within
the basin are exposed along the Mojave River and are
particularly well exposed near Manix wash. The east-west
trending, left-lateral Manix fault cuts the Plio-Pleistocene
sediments in the same vicinity; the area was, in fact,
the location of a ML=6.2 earthquake in 1947, the larg-
est recorded earthquake in the Mojave prior to the 1992
Landers earthquake. Aftershocks following the Manix
earthquake suggest that it occurred at the intersection of
the Manix and Pisgah faults. Aftershocks from the Landers
earthquake and the 1999 Hector Mine earthquake attenu-
ate along the Manix fault. The area is thus particularly
well-suited for unraveling both the short-term and long-
term history of the Manix fault, as well as being a region-
ally important location in the context of Mojave tectonics.
A strain gauge was installed across the Manix fault in
1970 approximately five kilometers east of the Mojave
River/Manix wash intersection. The strain gauge requires
manual data recording; in the subsequent 35 years, 21
measurements have been recorded. These measurements
are remarkably consistent, and, assuming pure strike-
slip motion, they indicate that this strand of the fault is
creeping left-laterally at a rate of approximately 0.1 mm/
year. Our detailed mapping of the area indicates that
the fault consists of at least three significant strands in
this area, with the strain gauge spanning just one of the
strands. Therefore it is quite possible that the total slip rate
on the fault is greater than the 0.1 mm/year indicated by
the strain gauge. Additional mapping of Plio-Pleistocene
sediments should reveal offsets across the fault that place
constraints on the earlier history of the fault.
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