Belgrade: Winter/Spring 2019

Sightseeing Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Wine Hotels Map
Belgrade
Winter/Spring 2019
Must-See Attractions
All you need to know about
the city‘s essential sights
Foodies Delight
Belgrade‘s culinary scene
continues to impress
Issue Nº21
inyourpocket.com
Contents
Where are you E S S E N TI A L
travelling to
C I TY G U I D E S
Belgrade Basics 7
Essential info and interesting facts
next?
Arriving & Getting Around 9
Planes, trains and automobiles
Culture & Events 11

Festivals, concerts, exhibitions and more
Restaurants 15
Belgrade’s culinary scene is booming
Cafés 24
Coffee, tea, ice cream and cake in the capital
Nightlife 27
The city that seldom sleeps
Belgrade: Like home

I grew up and have lived What’s better than celebrating New Year’s Eve in Belgrade? Cel-
around the world. I have ebrating it twice in two weeks, which is exactly what you can do
the privilege of travelling thanks to the Julian calendar, which places Orthodox New Year on
frequently and to great 14 January, photo by Rasica/Shutterstock.com
distances, and the luck to
be born and, as someone Sightseeing 32
else has said, to wake up,
among my own world - in The best of what to see in the city
Belgrade.
Because Belgrade is truly
Leisure 39
special. Something between the East and the West. Indoor fun for any weather
World metropoles and Balkan towns. Old Town
pavilions and New Belgrade boulevards. Museum Health & Wellness 40
silence and city bustle. Pamper yourself at the spa
At the same time, both antique and modern. Both
elegant and charmingly unrefined. Busy and casual. A Shopping 41
city for an almost provincial family life, successful busi- Where to go and what to buy
ness and exciting pastimes. A city that has managed
to preserve the tastes and smells of traditional cuisine, Where to Stay 45
25 but also openly accepts specialties from all meridians

An open city, of hospitable hosts and welcome
Business suites to budget beds
years guests, who in Belgrade, at an incredible speed, like

nowhere else in the world, cease to be strangers.
Vrnjačka Banja 48
One of Serbia’s top spa resorts
Because no matter where you come from or where you
MOBILE | ONLINE | PRINT return from, you will always feel like home in Belgrade. Kopaonik 49
A year-round mountain resort
Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides Marko Čadež
President of the Chamber City centre map 50
inyourpocket.com
of Commerce and Industry of Serbia Find your way around town
www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 5

Foreword Belgrade Basics
Whether you’re reading this on a blustery winter morning, a
wet afternoon in March or a warm spring evening, if you’re in
Belgrade you can rest assured that there’s something excep-
tional to experience just around the corner! This is only one
of the many reasons why the Serbian capital has always been
one of our favourite cities in Europe (or anywhere for that mat- E S S E N TI A L
Publisher C I TY G U I D E S
ter). Long hailed as amongst the continent’s top party cities, Serbia In Your Pocket
in recent years Belgrade has become an increasingly popular IQBator d.o.o.
bul. Zorana Djindjica 77/16, Belgrade, Serbia
and diverse tourist destination, attracting visitors not only for tel: +381 61 28 25 727
its legendary nightlife, but also for its history, culture, cuisine belgrade@inyourpocket.com
and most importantly its people, whose genuine hospitality
and insatiable joie de vivre is what truly makes visiting Serbia Director Antoanela Petrović
nela.petrovic@inyourpocket.com
an unforgettable experience. On the pages below we’ve in-
cluded our favourite places to eat, drink, shop and see, as well ISSN 1820-7693
as some essential practical info and other tidbits to make your © IQbator d.o.o.
CIP - Каталогизација у публикацији Народна библиотека
time in Belgrade as enjoyable as possible. You can also find Србије, Београд Don’t let a little bit of snow stop you from seeing the sights, including the obligatory of or in front of the Belgrade sign on Nikola Pašić Square, Nenad
lots more of our witty insights and recommendations, up-to- Nedomacki/Shutterstock.com
date info, interviews and special features on our website, app Editorial
Editor Emilija Mirković
or by following us on social media. If you’ve got a few minutes, Contributors John Bills, Richard Schofield, Yuri Barron, Mila Belgrade’s history has been tumultuous to say the least.
we always love to get feedback from our readers at belgrade@
inyourpocket.com. And finally, a big thank you to everyone
Nikolić
Design Radomir Lazović
There is definitely a sense of intrigue people feel while
walking down the streets of this old city. The overwhelm-
Religion
Photographs Shutterstock or as otherwise credited
who helped us make this issue of Belgrade In Your Pocket our Cover photo Zoran Mesarović / @zoranmesarovic ing feeling though, is of healing. The people enjoy life as The percentage of Serbian Orthodox Christians is over
best yet - we couldn’t have done it without all the hard work much as they can, party as much as they can, work as 80% making it the main religion by a long shot. There
and dedication from our local team members and amazing much as they can because they are driven to provide Ser- is an abundance of Orthodox churches and most, if not
partners. Hvala! Sales & Circulation all, allow tourist to take a look. Other places of worship
Antoanela Petrović, Ljiljana Živić, Svetlana Pejović bia with a much nicer future, compared to their past. This
feeling definitely rubs off on those visiting as well. In order include a catholic church, mosque and synagogue.
Cover story Printed by PUBLIKUM, Slavka Rodića 6, Belgrade, Serbia
Circulation 20,000 copies, printed twice per year
to ensure a good time, as well as safety, the list below has
Copyright notice
some basic information about the culture and the city. Mobile Phones
Standing proudly over the city, the
Text and photographs copyright Belgrade in Your Pocket. All Even if you’re only in town for a couple of days and don’t
14m-high Pobednik (or Victor) Mon-
ument, is arguably Belgrade’s most
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review,
Belgrade Weather plan to make any local calls, it could be worth getting a
without written permission from the publisher and copyright Belgrade has classic Mediterranean weather. Winters get local Serbian SIM card so you can always stay connected to
famous landmark. However, it’s slat-
owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license pretty cold, ranging from 5 to -5 degrees Celsius. There the internet without incurring any eye-watering roaming
ed to undergo major repairs in 2019, from UAB In Your Pocket, Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel.
is usually snow, which can look pretty nice, however, it charges on your next bill at home. It also makes booking a
so get those photos while you can. +370 5 212 29 76.
makes the city collapse, causing traffic jams everywhere. taxi much easier. What’s more, Serbians are about the most
The summers also get pretty hot, ranging from 30 to 40 hospitable people in the world, so there’s a good chance
you’ll make some new friends while your here, and having
About IYP degrees Celsius which can sometimes be unbearable, but
thankfully most places have pleasant summer gardens and a local number makes it easier to meet up the next day for
air conditioning amped up to the max, providing some whatever adventure you drunkenly planned to undertake
DUTCH In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading pub- kind of sanctuary from the heat the previous night. There are three mobile network opera-
CARIBBEAN
lisher of locally-produced city guides sin- tors, mts (by Telekom Srbija), Telenor and Vip Mobile, all of
ce 1992, recently launched a brand new which offer similar prepaid plans that start from around
Crime & Safety
ESTONIA
LATVIA RUSSIA smartphone app: In Your Pocket City 500din and include some free data.
NORTHERN LITHUANIA Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked Despite what most people might think, Belgrade is very
IRELAND
safe. Whenever there is a major event in town, such as a
IRELAND
NETHERLANDS
POLAND
BELARUS venues and sights alongside essential
travel information, these city guides football match or concert, the police can be seen every- Tourist Organisation
where. Some parts of town can be a bit sketchy (train and
of Belgrade
GERMANY UKRAINE
BELGIUM CZECH have been carefully crafted by our lo-
REPUBLIC bus stations are problematic in every city) but major inci-
cal editors and include only the places
AUSTRIA dents are extremely rare. Walking on the streets at night is
SWITZERLAND
SLOVENIA
HUNGARY
ROMANIA GEORGIA they are happy to recommend. The app totally fine, and the only crime tourists should take care of In addition to promoting tourism in the Serbian capital
CROATIA
ITALY
BOSNIA SERBIA - available on both iOS and Android - is is certain taxi drivers ripping you off and tourist traps. both at home and abroad, the Tourist Organisation of
BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ Belgrade, or just TOB for short, operates several tourist
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
app on your smartphone to download it.
Money info centres in the city. The most convenient for visitors
is the one right in the middle of Knez Mihailova pedes-
AUSTRALIA To keep up with all that’s new at In Your The local currency is the Serbian Dinar, which you will common- trian street, while those arriving by plane at Nikola Tesla
SOUTH
AFRICA
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. ly see abbreviated both as RSD and din. Compared to Northern airport will also pass one in the baggage claim area.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. and Western Europe, prices in Serbia are extremely cheap. The QKnez Mihailova 56, +381 11 26 35 622, www.tob.
com/inyourpocket). taxation on alcohol and tobacco is much lower than in the EU, a rs. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00
fact that also contributes to the amazing night life.
6 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 7
Belgrade Basics Arriving & Getting Around
MARkET VAlUES Welcome to BGD
Product Price Great cities like Belgrade
McDonald’s Big Mac Meal (medium) €4.30 have always been like
Slice of pizza €1.30 people, showing their
Slice of burek €0.84 varying personalities to
Cup of coffee €1.10 the traveller. Depend-
Bottle of vodka €10.00 ing on the city and on
Bottle of decent local wine €4.50 the traveller, there might
Bottle of local beer (shop) €0.67 begin a mutual love or
Pint of beer in a pub €1.30 friendship. Only through
Pack of cigarettes €3.00 travel can we know where
Single bus ride €0.80 we belong or not, where we are loved.
Movie ticket €4.20 Among other things Belgrade streets are made
Litre of petrol €1.30 to be walked. Our city is the language, handful of
Taxi ride across town €10.00 possibilities, so while walking you will learn our lan- Like much of the rest of the city, Belgrade’s public transport infrastructure is becoming more modern and efficient every year. Photo by
David Djordjevic studio / Shutterstock.com
guage which is in fact, many languages even long
forgotten ones, spoken when our world was much
younger. So if architecture limits where you can In the past 20 or so years, Belgrade has become much many new direct routes opening in recent years. Currently,
walk, walker invents his path, therefore speaking in more accessible. Whether by car, train or plane, many some 28 airlines service Belgrade, a lot of which are low
ExChAngE RATES the language of its own. routes have been opened and renewed, making travel cost. Most European cities are covered by these, yet there
Our struggle to survive at a crossroads of civilizations much less of a hassle. are still many more planned.
100 RSD = 0.84 EUR = 64.3 RBL = 0.96 USD and important roads, living in a place everybody else The local airport, Nikola Tesla, is 18km away from the city
= 5.14 TRY = 3.53 AED = 6.61 CNY would like to take and move you out, our capability centre, making it very accessible. Although there are a few
= 51.9 MKD = 3.93 RON = 273 HUF (7 Dec 2018) to adapt, but also to fight made us for what we are.
Good spirited people even in times of distress, re-
By bus bus routes to the airport (the A1 is the most frequent, with
stops in New Belgrade, Savski Trg and Slavija Trg, and the
sourceful and capable to infect our optimism on oth- Belgrade has an excellent network of long-distance buses, 300din fare can be paid to the driver), the easiest option
ers. Otherwise we wouldn’t survive. Fortunately, we connecting it to all parts of Europe. The Central Bus Station, is taking a taxi. Just make sure you secure one through the
now use our talents predominantly for hospitality. one of the ugliest structures to be seen on entering the official taxi stand in the arrivals gate where they will give
Serbia in numbers Dear traveller, on these pages you will see Belgrade city, sits next to the former Central Railway Station, so the you a fixed fare, ensuring you don‘t get ripped off.
through our eyes. This is one concept and construc- same warnings about pickpockets and taxi crooks apply The less known and much cheaper airport in Serbia is Con-
tion. Feel free to make your own. Just remember here. The same goes for the info on how to get to the city stantine the Great in Niš. And although you can enjoy the
Population
this: Belgrade has the capability to provide some- centre. The station features exchange offices, ATMs and left cheap transportation via Ryanair and the likes, if your final
Serbia 7,020, 858 (2017 estimate)
thing for everybody, only if it is created by every- luggage office. Arrivals are physically separated from the destination is Belgrade, you will have to add another 3
Belgrade 1,166,763 (2011)
body. Including you. station building, they are located across the street, next to hours to your journey.
Miodrag Popović a park. You can find a tourist info centre at the neighbour-
Area
Director of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade ing railway station.
88,361km2
Car parks
Economy
GDP $112.5bn (PPP), $42.4.5bn (nominal) By car Parking presents a problem. There are very few parking
garages, and only a few companies can boast the luxury
Per capita $16,063 (PPP), $6,052 (nominal) SYMBOL key Belgrade lies at the intersection of E-70 and E-75 motor- of private parking. To compound the mess, the Old Town is
ways. Foreign drivers in Serbia need an international driving divided into three parking zones: red zone (one-hour park-
Local time P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted license, vehicle registration certificate, and insurance policy. ing limit), yellow (two-hour) and green (three-hour). You
Central European (GMT +1)
O Casino H Conference facilities The valid insurance policies are issued by signatory countries can pay for parking by filling out a parking coupon for the
of the “Vehicle Insurance Convention”, and citizens of other relevant zone, available at kiosks with instructions in English
Longest river
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled countries are required to buy an insurance policy on enter- overleaf. Another way to pay for parking is to send an SMS
Danube 588km (in Serbia)
ing Serbia. You cannot miss Belgrade, because the motor- message with the number of licence plates to 9111 for Zone
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
way runs through the city. The speed limit in the city is set at 1, 9112 for Zone 2 and 9113 for Zone 3. You will receive a
Highest mountain
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. confirmation message in Serbian, so it might be safer to use
Midžor 2169m
the parking coupon, in case you were rejected. If you opt for
K Restaurant J Old town location parking in a parking garage, no parking limit applies.
International borders
Albania 115km, Bosnia 302km, Bulgaria 318km, D Sauna C Swimming pool
By plane You may notice that some local drivers have a habit of
parking their cars with blithe insouciance in the middle
Croatia 241km, Hungary 151km, Macedonia 62km, I Fireplace W Wifi After the UAE-based Etihad Airlines bought a stake in the of the street, even in the yellow lane, reserved for public
Montenegro 124km, Romania 476km
B Outside seating
venerable JAT Airways, the latter transformed almost over- transport, without suffering any consequences. This occurs
night in a modern operation now known as Air Serbia, with with annoying regularity on Nušićeva, Kraljice Marije, 27.

Arriving & Getting Around Culture & Events
Marta, Svetogorska and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra among
others. We do not advise you to follow their example be-
cause it is an ugly habit, posing a problem for other drivers.
Taxis
Like most things in Belgrade, taxis have become a bit more
modern and reliable in recent years, and are still quite cheap
by western standards. Like anywhere in the world there are
Car rental a few bad apples who might try to run up the fare on you
Zim Rent-a-Car or engage in some other dubious activity. However, from our
After a decade of working in travel and tourism, the personal experience the average Serbian taxi driver will go
friendly folks behind Zim decided to start their own car out of his way to get you where you’re going as quickly as
rental business in 2002 and haven’t look back. They’ve possible, whilst expertly negotiating Belgrade’s often chaotic
since grown in to one of the top rental companies in Bel- traffic. Most drivers are not exactly fluent in English, but are
grade, with a wide range of cars in their fleet and compet- more than happy to chat with passengers as much as possible
itive pricing to go along with their personalised service – and any Serbian vocabulary proffered on your part is sure to
and hospitality.QC‑3, Tadeuša Košćuška 28, tel. +381 11 impress. Tips aren’t the norm, but with the low fares and fre-
3036 500, www.zim-rentacar.com. quent en route entertainment we recommend paying it for-
ward as much as your budget allows. All reputable companies
are part of the local Taxi Association, with standard fares set at
170din flag drop, 65/85/130din per kilometre depending on
Public transport the time of day, and 750din per hour of wait time.
Belgrade does not have an underground railway system,
and it does not look as if it is going to get one soon (al- CarGo
though it has one of the deepest tube stations in Europe, CarGo is the coolest ride sharing app in Belgrade. With
at 42m below ground level). City transport comprises the CarGo app you can order a ride from point A to point
buses, trams and trolley buses. Buses are operated by a B, with your payment being handled automatically. They
public utility company controlled by the city council and currently support PayPal, mts credit, Telenor bank and
a number of private companies, which accounts for the major international credit cards, and you are guaranteed
differences in shape, colour and age of the buses out on a safe and hassle free ride. Download their app, where
the streets. you will always be able to see a fare estimate of your trip,
The best option for paying are the newly launched BusPlus and make your transport easier. We always use them to xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
tickets, which cost 100 dinars and are good for 75 minutes get to the airport, as rides out to Nikola Tesla start at only
with unlimited connections on buses and trams. There are 1000din.Qwww.appcargo.net/.
also single-ride tickets for 72 dinars, or you can buy a fare
on board from the driver for 140 dinars. You have to vali- Pink Taxi Festivals 22.03 - 12.04 » Belgrade Dance Festival
One of the largest events of its kind in Europe, the Bel-
date your ticket once you get on board. Qtel. +381 800 11 9803/19803, www.pinktaxi.info/. 09.03 - 10.03 » Balkan Cheese Festival grade Dance Festival will be bringing some of the world‘s
A ride without a valid ticket could cost you a 3000 dinar All foodies, gourmands and lovers of cheese will want to most accomplished artists of contemporary dance to the
fine. Public transport runs (roughly) from 04:30 to 23:30. Radio Beo Taxi circle 9-10 March on their calendars, as that‘s when the 9th Serbian capital this spring. Under the theme of ‚Emotion‘,
During night time, buses run at 1-hour intervals. Night Qtel. +381 11 241 5555/19999, www.radiobeotaxi.co.rs/. annual Balkan Cheese Festival will be setting up shop at 16 groups from 11 countries will be performing 19 cho-
buses depart from special stops on Trg Republike towards Dom Omladine. Visitors will have the chance to taste some reographed pieces as well as 25 solos and duets for lucky
other parts of the city. The night fare is 100 dinars, avail- Taksi Taxi 300 different cheeses from region, with exhibitors coming enthusiastic audiences. While medium of contemporary
able on board. You are advised to avoid trams if you are Qtel. +381 11 318 5 777/19919, www.taksi.rs/. from Serbia, Bosnia and Hercegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, dance has the tendency to be mocked by the general
in a hurry, because one broken tram blocks an entire line Montenegro and Slovenia to present their indigenous and public, we recommend checking out some of the videos
(or two), and this invariably happens right in the middle of Žuti Taxi Beograd original produce. And since no self-respecting cheese festi- on the official website of the various groups performing -
two stops, in pouring rain. Qtel. +381 65 9802 000/19802, www.taxi.rs/. val can take place without the undisputed king of cheese- we spent the better part of a recent afternoon doing just
making being represented, there will also be cheesemakers this, and a lot of it actually seemed quite cool.Qwww.
from France in attendance, as well as ltaly. Wine and other belgradedancefestival.com.
delicacies will also be presented for tasting. Best of all, ad-
mission is only 250 dinars. Don‘t miss it!QD‑5, Dom omla-
dine, Makedonska 22, tel. +381 11 324 82 02, 250 dinars. Food & Drink
04.11 - 29.12 » Sunday Brunch at the
12.03 - 17.03 » Guitar Art Festival Hilton
2019 is a special year for Belgrade‘s Guitar Art Festival, as The Hilton‘s Sunday brunch is especially popular with lo-
it marks the event‘s 20th year of bringing together clas- cal families, with a kid‘s corner to keep the young ones
sical guitarist of all kinds from around the world for a occupied and prices 50% off for those between seven and
week-long celebration of the instrument they love. From 12-years-old (while those under seven eat for free). The
amateurs and students to instructors and some of the buffet is salaš style, like that found on the typical Serbian
world‘s most famous guitarists, the festival comprised of countryside estate. Reservations are recommended.QTwo
various different workshops, concerts, events and other Kings, Kralja Milana 35, tel. +381 11 7555 700, 2990din
Ada Bridge (page 31) is one of Belgrade’s most impressive and photographed sights, photo by Predrag Mladenovic/Shutterstock.com activities.Q. per person, www.www3.hilton.com. Every Sunday.
Culture & Events Culture & Events
21.02 - 24.02 » 10th BEO Wine Fair Distance Urban variety, which means navigating on pave-
Now in its 10th year, the Wine Fair is a relatively new ments, in alleyways and garden squares, and it‘s an official Events
event at Belgrade Fair, featuring one of the fastest grow- World Ranking Event and the Serbian Sprint Champion-
ing sectors in Serbia - wine production and distribution. ship.QBelgrade Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 1 Jan - Victor Ruiz @ Hangar 22 Mar - Partibrejkers @ Ranko Žeravica Sport Hall
Wine tourism is also promoted intensively at the Wine 58, tel. +381 11 220 22 22.
Fair, which takes place concurrently with the International 1 Jan - Goa Experience @ Ego Club 22-24 Mar - Oriental Fairy Tales @ Zira Hotel
Tourism Fair, a testament to the increasing importance of
wine to the wider tourism industry. The most prominent
local and regional wine manufacturers, wine cellars, wine Sport 7 Jan - Million Mask March (Anonymous) 22-31 Mar - 54th International Motor Show @ Bel-
grade Fair
companies and distributors take part, and compete for 14.04 10:00-16:00 » Belgrade Marathon 11 Jan - Perc @ Drugstore
several awards, including Best Local Wine, Best Wine at Now in its 32nd year, the Belgrade Marathon is larger and 23 Mar - Grand Tasting @ Metropol Palace
the Wine Fair and a Sommelier Competition. There are more international than ever. The route crosses both the 13 Jan - Marika Rossa & Juliet Sikora @ Hangar
also auction-style wine sales, and many tastings are or- new and old parts of the city, starting at the intersection 29 Mar - Septicflesh @ Božidarac
ganised at the exhibitors’ stands daily.QA‑10, Belgrade of Kralja Aleksandra Boulevard and Resavska Street and 18 Jan - Schiller @ Ranko Žeravica Sport Hall
Fair, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. (+381) 11 220 22 22, ending on Terazije in front of Hotel Mosvka, which means 30 Mar - Wine Style Salon @ Crowne Plaza
300din, www.sajam.co.rs. that in addition to the sport aspect it‘s a great chance 25 Jan - Rammstein Tribute @ Vrtoglavnica Subculture
to see the sights. If the full 42km is too daunting, there‘s 4-6 Apr - Balkan Rhino Forum @ Hilton Belgrade
also an official half marathon, while for those of us who 26-27 Jan - Tantric Dance Workshop @ New Perspec-
aren‘t in the best shape there‘s even a 5km fun run which
Special Events doesn‘t require any registration. Still inexpensive com-
tives Centre 4-7 Apr - McLennan Cup (hockey) @ Pionir Ice Hall
10.03 10:00-18:00 » 64th International pared with other marathons around the continent, the 29 Jan - Music Awards Ceremony @ Stark Arena 5-7 April - Zombies Cup 2019 (lacrosse) @ New Belgrade
Dog Show registration fee is only 3600din before 28 February, and
This is like a beauty pageant, only a 100 times better, 4800 if you wait till the very last day.Q. 6-7 Feb - Qubit Conference @ Metropol Fair 5-7 Apr - LibertyCon Europe @ Kolarčeva Zadužbina
because its contestants are friendly, furry, four-legged
creatures that we call our best friends for the above men- 7 Feb - Captain Khalid (comedy) @ TBA 5-7 Apr - 23rd Children‘s Fair @ Belgrade Fair
tioned reasons. And those lovable beasties are, of course, Editor’s Pick
dogs! We‘re pretty sure they‘re all good boys and girls, but 8-10 Feb - Wedding Fair Weekend @ Hyatt Regency 30 Apr-7 May - Belgrade Tango Festival
here a panel of judges will rule based on the aesthetic cri-
teria. There will be more than 1200 dogs (imagine cud- 8 Feb - Norman Baker Trio @ Atom Akademija 5 May - Wings for Life Run @ Ušče Park
dling with all of them, we know, the definition of joy) com-
peting for the title of the most beautiful dog. The prizes 9-10 Feb - Beekeeping Fair @ Belgrade Fair 10 May - English Language Teachers Association
are cups, diplomas and, naturally, food for our cute con- Conference @ ELTA Serbia
testants. QA‑10, Belgrade Fair, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 9 Feb - Winter Night Half-Marathon @ Nebojša Tower
14, tel. +381 11 265 55 10. 22 May - Andre Rieu @ Stark Arena
11 Feb - Algiers @ Elektro Pionir
03.05 - 04.05 » Walking With Dinosaurs 24-26 May - Belgrade Manifest Festival
Even though it might seem like we humans have got ev- 12 Feb - Tom Odell @ Ranko Žeravica Sport Hall
erything completely figured out, we‘ve actually still got a 4-6 Jun - 12th Belgrade Future Gaming @ Belgrade Fair
lot to discover about history. Walking With Dinosaurs fea- 14 Feb - Massimo @ Sava Centre @ Nove Perspektiv
21.02-24.02 Belgrade Tourism Fair
tures, in a realistic and high tech manner, new discoveries
The largest tourism event in Serbia and the Southeast
about these magnificent creatures that once roamed the 18 Feb - 53rd Sommelier Training @ Hyatt Regency
Europe region takes place at the Belgrade Fair at the end
Earth. Visitors will learn all about the evolution process,
of February each year. For some 40 years the Belgrade
discoveries about the feathers some had and the ways 21-24 Feb - HORECA Equipment Fair @ Belgrade Fair
Tourism Fair has been the most important meeting place
in which herbivores protected themselves from the car-
for regional businesses in the tourism industry, and in
nivores. Large scale replicas of nine of the most famous 1-5 Mar - Nautic, Hunting & Fishing Fair @ Belgrade Fair
recent years has increasingly become important for in-
dinosaur species from different periods will be on display.
ternational participants as well, with 340 international
QBelgrade Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. 2 Mar - Lovefest Fire @ Hangar
exhibitors coming from 55 countries in 2018 – a reflec-
+381 11 220 22 22.
tion of the growing role that the tourism sector plays in
the Serbian economy and development. Since 2003, the 2-3 Mar - Priestess: An Initiation (workshop) @ Tulip Inn
18.05 » Urban O Cup 2019
event has been a member of the European Tourism Trade
This full weekend of urban orienteering is organised by 14 Mar - Youth Dialogue on Relations Between
Fairs Association (ETTFA), and since 2005 both the Cater-
the Magic Map Orienteering Club, and the competition Belgrade and Prishtina
ing Equipment Fair HORECA and the BEO Wine Fair have
race will be taking place in New Belgrade amongst the
been held in conjunction with the main event. While it’s
social-era blocks and grids of streets that have retained 16 Mar - Lovefest Fire @ Hangar
an important event for professionals, it’s also a great time
their ‚communist chic‘ feel. There‘s definitely a rich history
for the general public, with food, drinks, music and lots
along the residential streets intersected by wide boule- 17 Mar - John Paul Keith @ Grad Culture Centre
more taking place and an admission price of only 300
vards, squares, parks, numerous government buildings
dinars.Q A‑10, Belgrade Fair, Bulevar vojvode Mišića Algiers
and countless urban eye-candy. For those familiar with 17 Mar - Antimatter @ Elektro Pionir
14, www.beogradskisajamturizma.rs, 300din
orienteering, the courses are of the Spring and Middle

Culture & Events Restaurants
Art Galleries Theatres

These are some of the city‘s more established smaller gal- Atelje 212
leries, many of which have art available for sale. For infor- Drama, Comedy.QE‑5, Svetogorska 21, tel. (+381) 11 324
mation on larger galleries and museums, take a look at our 73 42, www.atelje212.rs.
Sightseeing section.
BDP - Belgrade Drama Theatre
Arte QE‑5, Svetogorska 29, tel. +381 11 324 39 96, Drama.QD‑3, Mileševska 64a, tel. (+381) 11 283 70 00,
www.arte.rs. Open 10:00 - 21:00. www.bdp.rs.
Beograd GalleryQC‑5, Kosančićev venac 19, tel. Bitef Theatre

+381 11 303 39 23, www.galerijabeograd.org. Open Modern dance, Drama.QE‑8, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel.
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (+381) 11 322 06 08, www.bitef.rs.
Cvijeta Zuzorić Art PavilionQB‑3, Kalemeg- JDP - Yugoslav Drama Theatre

dan 1, tel. +381 11 262 15 85, www.ulus-art.org. Open Drama.QE‑7, Kralja Milana 50, tel. (+381) 11 306 19 57,
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. www.jdp.co.rs.
New Moment GalleryQF‑5, Hilandarska 14, Madlenianum Opera and Theatre

tel. +381 11 322 99 92, www.newmoment.com. Open Opera, Ballet, Drama.QE‑8, Glavna 32 (Zemun), tel.
09:00 - 17:00. (+381) 11 316 25 33, www.madlenianum.rs.
RTS GalleryQE‑6, Takovska 10, tel. +381 11 321 18 National TheatreQE‑8, Francuska 3, tel. (+381)
33. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 11 262 09 46, www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs.
Cantina de Frida
SANU GalleryQE‑8, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. +381 Puž
11 218 53 23, www.sanu.ac.rs. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat Children’s theatre.QG‑9, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. Named after the famous artist Frida Khalo, with its colorful interior and excellent food this place is the embodiment of her way of life.
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. (+381) 11 243 80 36, www.pozoristancepuz.com.
Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circum- grandmothers, the restaurant is a treasure trove of mouth-
SKC GalleryQE‑7, Kralja Milana 48, tel. +381 11 Terazije Theatre stances this country has been exposed to throughout the watering flavours. It’s also a place to relax and enjoy your
268 84 68, www.skc.org.rs. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat Musical, Ballet.QD‑6, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel. (+381) 11 centuries - a combination of various culinary influences meal, with the accompaniment of fine local wine and raki-
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 330 26 50, www.pozoristeterazije.com. prepared in an entirely unique and original way. ja, in other words, a place to feel at home.QTošin Bunar
The food served in restaurants is healthy and completely 179, tel. +381 11 6555 097, www.restoranbelareka.rs/.
ULUS GalleryQE‑8, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. +381 Zvezdara Theatre organic - with no genetically modified products or artificial Open 08:00 - 23:45. P
11 262 31 28, www.ulus.org.rs. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat Drama, Comedy.QMilana Rakića 38, tel. (+381) 11 241 flavourings, and the portions tend to be large. Most meals
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 96 64, www.zvezdarateatar.rs. are prepared with a considerable amount of meat, and Dva Jelena
served with a variety of vegetables. Home-cooked meals If its good enough for Tito, its good enough for us. One of
tend to be more spicy. the most famous tavens on a street full of them, a laundry
Cinemas Tickets agents list of historical figures have dined at Dva Jelena, and one
May 22-27
DKC Theatre
Bilet servisQC-2, Trg Republike 5, tel. 303 33 11,
www.biletservis.co.rs. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Saturday Serbian can only speculate as to the stories these walls could tell.
Traditional Serbian cuisine and plenty of history await at
A presentation of 12 newly-released Spanish films. 09:00 - 15:00, Sunday Closed. Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circumstanc- this celebrated Skadarlija spot.QE‑4, Skadarska 32, tel. +
EventimQC-2Topličin venac 19-21, 3281-025, www. es this country has been exposed to throughout the centu- 381 11 7234 885/+ 381 62 350 002, www.dvajelena.rs.
CineplexxQBulevar Mihajla Pupina 4, Ušće Shop- eventim-yu.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Saturday 10:30 - ries - a combination of various culinary influences prepared Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. APXBEJ
ping Centre, tel. +381 11 3113370, www.cineplexx.rs. 18:00, Sunday Closed. in an entirely unique and original way. The food served in
TicketlineQC-2, Čika Ljubina 18-20 (Plato Music Store), restaurants is healthy and completely organic - with no ge- Kafana ? (Znak Pitanja)
KinotekaQMuseum of Yugoslav Film ArchivesQE‑6, tel. 203 05 70, www.ticketline.rs. Open 12:00 - 18:00, netically modified products or artificial flavourings, and the The oldest kafana in the city, ? (‘Znak Pitanja’, if you’re
Kosovska 11, tel. (+381) 324 82 50. Sunday 12:00 - 20:00. portions tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a asking) is as much an iconic spot as it is a restaurant. The
considerable amount of meat, and served with a variety building itself is coming close to 200 years of existence,
Kolosej CineplexQB‑2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4 of vegetables. Home-cooked meals tend to be more spicy. built in the 1820s on the orders of Miloš Obrenović him-
(SCUšće), tel. (+381) 11 285 44 95. Venues self. That history is palpable in the walls, although its cli-
Belgrade Arena (Štark Arena)QBulevar Bela Reka entele is definitely of a more modern sort. Vuk Karadžić
KonBank Dvorana Cineplex.QD‑6, Dečanska 14, Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. +381 11 220 22 22, www. In older times everyone used to know exactly what was was known to dine here, back when the famous linguist
tel. (+381) 11 323 48 49. starkarena.co.rs/. APXTEH needed for an excellent meal: a good recipe and fresh had both of his legs. Decent traditional Serbian food hap-
local ingredients prepared with a lot of love. Luckily for pens to be available alongside the history.QKralja Petra
Tuckwood QE‑6, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. (+381) 11 323 Belgrade FairQA‑10, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, you, at Bela Reka they still know the truth of these simple 6, tel. +381 11 263 5421. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00
65 17, www.tuck.rs/cms/view.php?id=109. tel. (+381) 11 220 22 22, www.sajam.co.rs. fact. Inspired by the traditional recipes known to Serbian - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Closed Mon.

Restaurants Restaurants
Kod Dvoglavog Orla Lovac We’ve always loved the rustic wooden furnishings, superb
An interesting concept of three combined venues, including Lovac is the Serbian word for ‘hunter’, and this place definitely service and timeless charm that greets us on a retreat from CHEF IVAN OF KOVAČ
a traditional Serbian restaurant, an international eatery and a looks like a hunter’s cabin, with the walls covered in rifles, tro- the bustle of the city. The menu is largely made up of the
summer garden, Kod Dvoglavog Orla is hidden away in plain phies and large deer antlers, all of which gives it a special touch. traditional grilled meat dishes that all travellers to this part
sight just off Terazije. Brick walls, wood and metal along with You recommend trying ‘Charcoal on the table’, a very special of the world will known and love, along with some of the
mediaeval decoration, like shields and swords, may give din- meal and the pride of the restaurant, which consists of several city’s most refreshing salads. The food is good, but it is the
ers a feeling of travelling through time and dining with knights types of meat served on a tiny grill, keeping it hot while you views that really attracts, a stunning expanse of the lushest
and the kings. QD‑6, Terazije 34, www.koddvoglavogorla. eat. During the summer you can relax in their vast garden hid- green.QKneza Višeslava 29, Košutnjak, tel. +381 63 267
com, +381 63 236 868. Open 09:00 - 01:00. den under the linden trees. QE‑8, Alekse Nenadovića 19, tel. 702. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon.
+381 11 243 6128/+381 60 365 4020, www.restoranlovac.
Kovač
In both its cuisine and atmosphere Kovač combines the
rs. Open 09:00 – 01:00, Sat 09:00 – 02:00.
Asian
best of Serbian tradition with modern standards, while Restoran Avala Marukoshi
maintaining a perceptible air of authenticity. The feast Taking its name from the 511m Mount Avala just south of Located in the quiet corner of Dorćol, this hip restaurant
begins with freshly baked cornbread, homemade cheese Belgrade, this restaurant has all the charm befitting an es- with a great interior specialises in Japanese cuisine. Forget
and Serbian prosciutto, and the menu features countless tablishment that opened back in 1945, but has also a mod- sushi for now, if you are craving some real Udon noodle
traditional dishes, such as smoked ribs, boiled ham hock ern ambience after undergoing more recent renovations. Ramen and Gyoza, make sure to pay them a visit. They also Located at the very edge of the Banjica Forest, Kovač was
and steak skewers wrapped with prosciutto. Another Often referred to by locals as Mala Avala (Little Avala) or offer Japanese beers and Sake that can rarely be found in once a humble blacksmith shop, which was transformed
house specialty to try is the veal and pork, which is roast- the diminutive Avalica (which sounds really cute in Ser- the Balkans. And the best part is that they have deliv- into a restaurant in order to provide travellers who pass
ed under the bell (or ‘ispod sača’) with coals piled on top, bian), the food here is exquisite, with a menu is based on ery. Just make sure that you don’t plan your visit on Mon- that way towards Belgrade a meal and a rest. Through
letting the succulent meat slowly cook in its own juices. French cuisine with a unique twist, which shouldn’t come days, as that is their day off. They have delivery from 12 to the years Kovač changed its ambience but never lost its
Make sure to save room for dessert, as the sweets are also as a surprise, since chef Igor Beloševič is also the owner 22 o’clock. QE‑3, Kapetan Misina 37, tel. +381 64 479 traditional background, and now it’s a popular destina-
quite sublime - our personal favourite is the tiramisu with and keeps a watchful eye on everything. QLjutice Bog- 4715, www.marukoshi.rs/. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat tion for both locals and visitors alike, with traditional
quince. The wine collection includes more than 2000 dana 24, tel. +381 11 4042 951, www.restoranavala.rs. 09:00 - 01:00, Closed Mon. APGXTVJ6 Serbian cuisine and acoustic music. We recently had a
bottles, and there is of course an equally impressive se- Open 09:00 – 24:00, Closed Sun. chance to sit down and chat with Ivan, their head chef.
lection of homemade rakija to choose from. Located op-
posite the Banjica Forest in the south of the city, taxi is the Rubin Fusion What makes Kovač unique?
convenient way to get here.QBulevar Oslobođenja 221, With gorgeous views out over Košutnjak as well as Mt JaM Aside from traditional ambience, our ingredients are
tel. +381 11 2462 343, www.restorankovac.com/. Open Avala further to the south, the legendary Rubin is undoubt- A small piece of art on a plate is what you get when you top-notch quality, organic and mostly homemade, we
12:00 - 01:00, Mon 15:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. edly one of the most invigorating restaurants in the capital. visit JaM restaurant in Donji Dorćol. Carefully selected in- get fresh meat from Serbian mountains four times a
gredients are combined into real culinary wonders. From week. All the food is prepared on the spot when it’s
something sounding so everyday like chicken wings, which ordered. Even winter stashes, picked vegetables, are
also got the special JaM touch, to duck’s meat with grilled homemade, prepared by our chefs in Kovač. But we
pumpkin in honey and goose liver mousse, as well as an also really take pride in our wines, we have a selection
abundance of unforgettable seafood specialities. Their of more than 250 wines from all over the world.
drinks menu has a great selection of wine and cocktails
to compliment the cuisine, while lots of wood, stone and What are the best dishes in Kovač?
brass combined with brightly coloured furniture make the I believe that all our guests should definitely try ‘beef
interior a real treat for the eyes as well. QF‑4, Knez Mileti- under the bell’ (ispod sača), because not many res-
na 25, tel. +381 63 338 471, www.justamaestro.rs. Open taurants offer it in Belgrade. Sač is a vintage stove in
08:30 – 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 – 01:00, Closed Mon. which food is cooked in its own juices and the steam
it creates, so that all the flavours are preserved. It re-
Miamiam quires a cook specialised in sač, and we do have such
Miamiam is a place of modern and innovative cuisine a man. It is very hard to work with sač since natural
where the most sophisticated ingredients from the local materials can be very tricky, and the meals must be
Kalenić market are used. In a relaxed and sophisticated preordered, a day in advance, because it requires
ambience, the dishes are made for real foodies at reason- around three hours to prepare.
able prices. Their Indian set menu is a must try addition. It
also has a garden under the greenery of a quiet street on Anything else you’d recommend?
Vračar where you can also enjoy breakfast and teas.QF‑9, We must not forget ćevapi, a dish that every tourist
Kursulina 6, tel. +381 11 344 1503. Open 09:00 - 23:30, should try in Serbia. Podvarak, pickled cabbage that
Closed Mon. APTBSJWK we also prepare in sač and add meat. But we have
many dishes, even though we are a traditional restau-
International rant, it is contemporary traditional, a rather weird mix,
but we make it work by offering dishes for everyone’s
Bistro Mali Pijac tastes. So at one table you can find various dishes, like
Mali Pijac means ‘little market’ in Serbian, but this newly pihtije, ham in horseradish sauce, fried liver with cara-
opened bistro in Savamala doesn’t bear much resemblance melised onions and many more.
to any market we’ve seen. Located on the ground floor of a

restored heritage building, with super high ceilings and mini- +381 11 328 7197/+381 63 808 0035, www.newreset.rs.
Around St Sava malist design, on our first visit we had flashbacks to our sum- Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Serbian Cuisine
mer holiday visiting friends in Stockholm and Copenhagen,
When visiting the Church of St Sava, don’t miss the op- as the somewhat industrial chic interior has a very Scandina- New York New York
portunity to do a bit of exploring in the surrounding vian feel to it. Already a popular brunch spot, it’s one will be New restaurants open and close their doors all the time
neighbourhood of Vračar. While it holds the distinction keeping an eye on.QC‑5, Karadjordjeva 61, tel. +381 69 777 in Belgrade, but New York New York has been a stal-
of being the smallest of Belgrade’s constituent munici- 989. Open 09:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. wart on the city’s culinary scene since all the way back
palities, it’s also the most densely populated and affluent, in 1991. The menu offers a diverse selection of dishes,
with lots of small boutiques, cafés, restaurants and more Franš with pasta and other Mediterranean flavoured delights
to discover. We’ve included a couple of our favourite An elegant restaurant named after the French general, taking centre stage. And if you can dine here without
spots to dine near of Serbia’s most famous church below. Franchet d’Esperey. It has an incredibly extensive menu getting Frank Sinatra’s eponymous song stuck in your
with Serbian and international dishes, an excellent selec- head, then you’ve got more will power than we do. So
tion of wines (over 400 types from all parts of the world), get your vagabond shoes walking towards Vračar to
and specialities made of black or white truffles. This res- make a brand new start of it and have your little town
taurant also owns an impressive collection of paintings blues melt away.QF‑8, Krunska 86, tel. +381 11 2455
that decorate the walls. Their great summer garden offers 625. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circum-
a tranquil spot in the hustle of the city that is well worth stances this country has been exposed to throughout
seeing.QE‑10, Bulevar Oslobođenja 18a, tel. +381 11 Novak the centuries - a combination of various culinary influ-
2641 944/+381 65 2641 944, www.frans.rs. Open 10:00 This restaurant is named after, and owned by, one of ences prepared in an entirely unique and original way.
- 00:00. Closed Sun. €€. APGXTBL the best tennis players in the world, Novak Djoković. The food served in restaurants is healthy and com-
Located in his home town, it has a lot to offer. Be- pletely organic - with no genetically modified prod-
Ceger Jerry side various tennis memorabilia, they specialises in ucts or artificial flavourings, and the portions tend to
Located near the Temple of St Sava and the National Li- Set beneath a modern block of flats in New Belgrade, the international dishes, but also have various vegan and be large. Most meals are prepared with a considerable
brary of Serbia, Ceger is known for its good energy, great sophisticated ambiance takes you by surprise when you gluten free options. Their dessert menu is a category amount of meat, and served with a variety of veg-
service, beautiful design, large garden and spacious inte- first enter - the fact that it’s named after a real life chihua- in itself, and since they luckily offer catering, your etables. Home-cooked meals tend to be more spicy.
rior gallery for those who want a little more privacy in the hua (who adorns the logo and by all accounts is the boss) cake needs for any occasion are sorted!QBulevar Ar- For the main course, most restaurants in Belgrade
centre of the city bustle. Ah yes, and then there’s the food! also serves to dampen expectations. Nevertheless, the senija Čarnojevića 54a, tel. +381 11 311 31 31, www. will offer roštilj - different types of barbecued
The diverse menu was developed with the help of chef place is exquisitely designed and professionally run, with novak1.rs/. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AZ P T B S meat cuts served with finely chopped onion. Al-
Mirko Stojic, a legend of the Belgrade culinary scene. Ce- some of the best service in town, and most importantly VW K though many world nations prepare their meat
ger works 365 days a year, sometimes 366, because they the food is excellent. However, our favourite part is prob- in a similar style, Serbs have managed to elevate
know how important it is to each of us to have a place that ably the cosy cigar lounge that’s just off the main dining barbecued meat to an art form, and nowhere else
we can always count on.QE‑9, Skerlićeva 20, tel. +381 11 area.QTresnjinog Cveta 11, tel. +381 11 630 2459, www. will you have the opportunity to try such speci-
4065794, www.kafeceger.com/en/. Open 07:30 - 24:00, jerry.rs. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€€. APXBL alities. The meat needs to be primed in a particu-
Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. APTBS6WKi lar way before it can be tossed on the grill, typi-
Madera cally heated with beech charcoal. Barbecue chefs
A renowned Belgrade restaurant with an elegant inte- are a class of their own, and the best of the bunch
rior and beautiful garden located on the periphery of come from the south-Serbian town of Leskovac.
Tašmajdan Park. The food is first-rate, and apart from Types of barbecued meat include ćevapčići (cylinder-
the national dishes on the menu, their resident chef shaped minced meat), pljeskavice (similar to a ham-
who ot his education in France also made sure to in- burger), kobasice (a special, spicy type of sausage for
clude some Italian specialities and desserts. They have the barbecue), ražnjići (chunks of meat on a skewer),
traditional as well as international dishes, and they also Passpartù Cafe & Restaurant vešalice (boneless pork loin, cut lengthwise), chicken
offer sushi. Though the waiters are friendly, they often liver rolled in strips of bacon, etc. If you order the
pay more attention to regular customers.QF‑7, Bulevar Passpartù Cafe & Restaurant Mixed meat, you will get a little of all the above spe-
Kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. +381 11 323 1332, www. Local and international dishes are combined cialities on one plate. If you order the leskovački voz
Pivo i Kobaja maderarestoran.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat in Passpartù’s menu, so there should be something for (Leskovac Train), you will get the same combination,
Pivo i Kobaja, or ‘beer and sausage’ in English, is a superb 10:00 - 01:00. €€. AP X T B E L everyone, from pizza and chicken steaks to Toblerone but on separate plates that will arrive one by one, so
restaurant with, well, beer and sausages. They currently mouse for dessert, and there’s an especially good wine that the various types of meat stay warm.
have three locations in Belgrade, but the original outfit is New Reset list to accompany whatever it is you decide on. After
next to St Sava Temple, in a great neighbourhood that’s You can find many wonders in the neighbourhood work or later in the evenings we recommend giving Bread. As could be concluded from the name, their best
worth a bit of extra exploring either before or after your of Dorćol, and New Reset is one such beauty. Tucked away a few of their famed cocktails a try. The atmosphere seller are the various sandwiches they make with their
meal. Not surprisingly there’s a huge selection of sausages in a century-old old house, it’s a truly unique oasis in the and the interior are very hip, and makes for a relaxing home made sun dried tomato bread. They ensure that
to choose from, and we have never been disappointed, heart of town, hidden from the noise of the city. Art en- atmosphere no matter when you visit.QD‑4, Kneginje their ingredients are organic and fresh, which is evident
while the choice of both draught and bottled beer is thusiasts will find this place even more extraordinary, as Ljubice 20, tel. +381 60 727 2295, www.passpartu- from the flavour and quality of their food. They also of-
equally vast, and makes the perfect pairing with the koba- its walls are embellished with an exhibition of paintings. home.com. Open 08:00 - 00:00. fer smoothies and juices, perfect thirst quenchers in the
ja. You can also find them at Ruzveltova 36 and in Mercator Rib eye steak with forest fruit or risotto with prawns are summer. This type of restaurant is a rare occurrence in Bel-
Center. QF‑9, Braničevska 1, tel. +381 62 404 885/+381 two of our favourites from the diverse menu selection, Red Bread grade, as there is no inside smoking,QE‑4, Dositejeva 22,
62 404 008, www.pivoikobaja.rs. Open 08:00 - 01:00. and their lovely green garden is as equally unique as After all the meat and carbs that Serbian food has to offer, tel. +381 65 227 0099. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00
the rest of this place.QD‑4, Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel. if you are craving a cleanse of sorts, make sure to visit Red - 21:00. €. ZPGTBSVJ6WKi

Vegetarian & Vegan Fish
Radost Fina Kuhinjica Šaran
Think Belgrade is purgatory for vegetarians? Wrong. Ra- More than a century ago, Vicentije Vukotić opened a
dost Fina Kuhinjica is a captivating veggie restaurant by inn on the ground floor of his house, which quickly
Kalemegdan, with an enchanting garden to boot. It might became well-known for its unique fish soup, with a
not be the easiest to find, but simply enter the apartment traditional recipe is still used today. This beautiful
at the address and take your immediate right. The waiters house, right on the right bank of the Danube, preys
will be quick to offer a seat and a menu that proves all the on its architecture and from its inception gathered the
stereotypical worries about vegetarian grub wrong.QB‑4, most famous personalities and names from various
Pariska 3, tel. +381 61 60 44445/+381 60 60 300 23. fields of work and life, and was the first place where
Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon. fresh fish came straight from the fishermen’s own
boats - a fact that Šaran is still proud of to this day.
Smokvica QКеј Oslobođenja 53, tel. +381 69 261 8235, www.
We should say right up front that we love this place. What saran.co.rs/. Open 12:00 - 00:30, Tue 15:00 - 00:30,
started as just an outdoor summer terrace hidden away in a Closed Mon.
charming courtyard in the Dorćol neighbourhood of old Bel-
grade, now has seven venues across the city. However each its garden. The friendly staff is always ready to help you
location brings with it the distinctive Smokvica charm. The select for the best wine with your meal, whether local
food ranges from wraps and burgers, to salads and stakes, or international, but the choice between tiramisu and
with a particular list of pressed fresh juices and refreshments. millefoglie for dessert is the one you’ll have to make on
Which ever site you decide to visit, you will not leave disap- your own. QD‑6, Balkanska 13, tel. +381 60 6886 959,
pointed.QC‑3, Kralja Petra 73, tel. +381 69 44 64 056, www. www.balkon.rs. Open 08:00-01:00, Sat 08:00-02:00.
smokvica.rs. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. € .
Pomodoro
Stara Koliba Great pizza, friendly service and a splendid atmosphere,
Popular with diplomats and politicians, this floating restaurant all of which won’t dent your wallet in the slightest. What
made of wood and reeds is situated in the most beautiful spot more is there to say? We could make mention of the
in town, almost on the river mouth itself. If you don’t have a Talas commitment to all things homely in a environment that come nightfall. Their regulars choose Šešir Moj when they
reservation, the chances of getting a table on the terrace with Zemun, one of the most beautiful parts of Belgrade, a city doesn’t lack for professionalism, or the subtle qualities are in the mood to truly indulge their senses, and their
the stunning view are next to none. Nevertheless, there is also within the city, is now richer by a cool venue, thanks to of the music chosen for ambience, but we’ll stick to the staff see a small victory in every content guest.QE‑4,
charm in sitting at the bar surrounding the cooking area, as Supermarket opening Talas on the river shore. Although whole great pizza thing.QF‑5, Hilandarska 32, tel. +381 Skadarska 21, tel. +381 11 7228 750, www.sesirmoj.rs.
you can watch the cooks prepare meat and fish dishes.QA‑3, you will be feeling beach vibes at Talas, you will just be a 800 300 700/+381 11 334 5405, www.pomodoro.rs. Open 09:00 - 01:00. APTBJWK
Ušće bb, tel. +381 63 1083 147, www.starakoliba.rs. Open short drive away from the city centre. When you find your- Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. APG
12:00 - 24:00. APXBE self in Zemun, craving finger food, craft beer and other XTUBSW
such delights, head over to Talas.QKej Oslobođenja 37, Beton Hala Hot Spot
tel. +381 69 744 017, www.supermarkettalas.com/en/.
Terminal
Open 09:00 - 01:00, Closed Mon. Kafana Cantina de Frida
A kafana (bistro) is an authentic Belgrade restaurant. The This ten-year-old Mexican-Mediterranean bar-restau-
Terminal first ever kafana in Belgrade (and Europe) was opened by the rant is located on the Sava pier. The interior decoration
One of the most popular and largest restaurants with a Turks at the end of the 16th century, in the Dorćol section of unifies lively colours and details that associate to Mexi-
marvelous view of the biggest Serbian Orthodox temple, St the city. Kafana differ from a standard restaurant in the fol- co and the life of the famous artist Frida Kahlo. The lively
Sava Temple, is a regular choice of the number of those who lowing ways: ordering food is not obligatory - you can come colours repeat themselves on the plates, too. The menu
love good food. Relaxing atmosphere in Lounge Cocktail for only a drink, no scornful looks will be thrown your way is based on tapas (plates): hot or cold, based on meat or
Bar perfectly combined with an elegant a la carte restaurant if you dip your bread in the grilled meat juice or rest your sea food. If you decide to share your plate with a friend,
upstairs. Their garden is the right choice for enjoyment with elbows on the table, loud laughter and emotional outbursts the restaurant also offers large tapas. Experienced wait-
the view of the Temple during the sunny days. International are normal occurrences, the guests address the waiters by ers are there to help you make the right choice of meal
cuisine offers a vast selection of dishes at any time of day with their first names, the food is good but never exceptional, and and sauce, thus choosing how spicy you want your
excellent fun in the evening.QF‑9, Bore Stankovića 17, tel. tables are often pushed together for purposes of socialising. dish to be. Don’t miss Diego’s pancakes, made just like
+381 62 8002 017, www.terminalgastrobar.rs/frontpage/. Frida used to cook them. The music is pop and rock in-
Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 01:00. Šešir Moj spired by Frida’s passion for life. This place can get very
Declared as the best tavern in South Eastern Europe, popular, especially in the evening, so check ahead for
Italian in Šešir Moj you will encounter the magnificent spirit of
Skadarlija, the rhythm of Belgrade. If you are looking for an
availability.QB‑4, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. +381 60 365
4030/+381 60 365 4021, www.cantinadefrida.com.
Balkon authentic Serbian tavern, you are in the right place. This is Mon 11:00 - 02:00, Tue, Wed 11:00 - 02:30, Thu 11:00
At the top of Balkanska Ulica, a famous Belgrade street a place you choose to eat and drink among gourmets and - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:30, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€.
with a long tradition, you’ll find Balkon, an Italian restau- bohemians – the atmosphere is relaxing by day and merry APXBEVLW
rant tucked away with a marvellous view of the city from
Latin American Grill Dining in Dorćol
Burrito Madre Durmitor
Like Subway but for burritos (and a whole lot bet- One of the finest restaurants on the other side of the river, Casa Nova
ter), Burrito Madre is a fast food Mexican eatery with Durmitor is a New Belgrade staple that attracts business-
three locations in the city centre. Simply get in line men, families, parties and everything in between. As the
and go through the various stages to create the bur- name suggests, all things Montenegrin are celebrated
rito of your dreams, or at least the burrito that you here. Don’t expect much English, but do expect some
think you’re after at that point in time. You can take marvellous nourishment. It may also offer the best teleća
away or eat in, but enjoyment is as good as guaran- čorba in town, and we don’t throw out such accolades
teed.QD‑5, Terazije 27, tel. +381 11 303 7450, www. lightly.QOmladinskih Brigada 16, +381 11 260 23 30,
burritomadre.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. www.restorandurmitor.rs. APTBSVW
To Je To
Pizza Ćevapi is ubiquitous in Belgrade, but To Je To may just offer
Botako Pizzeria the best in the city centre. Bonus points are awarded for the
If you were to randomly ask anyone on the street benches and friendly service, but it is the juicy quality of the
where their favourite pizza place i town is, you will traditional Balkan grilled meats that takes centre stage. Ran
hear lots of different answers. Some prefer their pizza by a family from a Bosnia, the delicious tastes of Sarajevo
cheesy, while others love a thin crust. But the most have found themselves a great spot in the Serbian capital.
popular answer will no doubt be Botako. There is QBulevar Despota Stefana 21, tel. +381 11 323 12 99,
something about the freshness of their ingredients www.sarajevski-cevapi.com. PTJ
that truly takes you to pizza heaven. You can find
them in two locations, in Dorćol (Šantićeva 8) and
Vračar (Nevesinjska 6), and have various other dishes Quick Eats
on offer. Our personal recommendation is their UFO Loki
pizza, that truly takes you out of this world.QF‑4, Fast food tends to be hit and miss, but you know a place
Santiceva 8, tel. +381 62 249 703/+381 11 3446 770, is good when it is as highly recommended as the restau-
www.pizzabotako.rs/. Open 09:00 - 23:30. PT rants in its part of town. Open 24 hours a day, Loki has a
BS V J W K huge reputation among locals and it isn’t difficult to see Squeezed between the old town, Kalemegdan For-
day lunch.QPožarevačka 51, tel. +381 66 447 446, why. Some of the best meat in town in undoubtedly the tress and the Danube, Dorćol is one of Belgrade’s
Seafood www.bevanda.co.rs. Open 12:00 - 24:00. best bread, this is the place to seek out if midnight is long
behind you and sustenance is required.QE-8, Strahinjića
oldest and most storied neighbourhoods. While
it’s long been primarily residential, in recent years
Bevanda Gušti Mora Bana 36. Open 00:00 - 24:00. S quite a few recommendable dining and drinking
Bevanda is a unique, awarded, family-owned seafood Though Belgrade is far from the seaside, Belgraders options have opened up shop, as well as countless
restaurant located in the quiet heart of Belgrade with love seafood and have very high standards when it Chefs Toast apartments, making it a great option for visitors
a tradition of more than 20 years of culinary seafood comes to preparing it. Here you can try fresh saltwa- Located just a few minutes away from the main pedes- looking to avoid the more touristy part of town.
masterpieces. A playground in the back of the restau- ter fish, lobster and shellfish prepared in the same trian street, Knez Mihajlova, Chefs Toast is a superb place
rant makes it perfect for a family visit with the kids. style as in the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. The wait- for anyone who likes to start their day with a rich, tasty Casa Nova
It’s also a great place for a romantic date or a business ers are kind and obliging. Even though the restaurant sandwich. Sandwiches are made from local and home- Mixing French and Italian food, Casa Nova is one
meeting, away from the city noise, or even just a mid- is located in a rather unattractive part of the city made ingredients and come in various shapes and sizes of a new breed of swanky restaurants in town. Bel-
(and just next door to a tyre repair shop), the excel- depending on your appetite and company. You can also grade is full of romantic restaurants, but there is a
Middle Eastern lent food it offers makes it a very popular place, even
among local celebrities.QRadnička 27, tel. +381 11
get huge sandwiches made out of whole loaves of bread
for up to five people. Caution, try not to eat too much of
class about this Dorćol spot that demands extra
attention from the amorous and affectionate. This
355 1268, www.gustimora.com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. these sandwiches, you might not have room for the deli- is one of the rare venues in Belgrade with a sepa-
Lavash €€€. AP X B S W cious muffins they also sell.Q Višnjićeva 7. +381 66 8834 rate room for nonsmokers. Apart from being so
Lavash is an original mix of the Balkans and the Ori- 228. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. elegant, it’s cosy and private atmosphere makes
ent. The food prepared here is just as unique as the Tata Mata it great for meeting with friends and shooting the
venue and combines the two cultures perfectly, giv- The name of this place isn’t just cheeky, it is also a nod Pile & Prase breeze with a quality wine in your hand. QD‑3,
ing guests a modern Balkan experience with a twist. to the legacy of the building itself. The restaurant was Found on one of the Belgrade’s main thoroughfares, Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel. +381 11 303 6868,
The traditional Balkan music that plays in the back- once home to famous Serbian theatre and film direc- southeast of the city centre, Pile & Prase is one of the www.casanova.rs. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
ground always makes us feel a real taste of ‘merak’ tor Mata Milošević, and the grandiosity of the stage better fast food options in a town teeming with them. AP X B S W
(the Serbian word for extreme enjoyment) and gives is echoed in the ambience today. Mediterranean and Their ćevapi and pljeskavice are awesome and the best
the dining experience an extra portion of authen- seafood dishes dominate the menu, with plenty of part is that it can be delivered to your door, which is free
ticity. QB‑4, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. +381 11 40 36 wine waiting to compliment your meal.QDalmatin- for orders larger than 700 dinars. However, if you’re in the
430/+381 62 562 751, www.lavash.rs. Mon 12:00 ska 98, +381 11 380 6347, www.tatamatakonoba. neighbourhood the dark interior is a cool spot to dine. Many more restaurants online at
- 01:00, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 02:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:30, com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri -Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Q Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 144, +381 60 066 66 96,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Sun 12:00 - 21:00 www.pileiprase.rs. Open 00:00 - 24:00.
iyp.me/belgrade/restaurants

Cafés Cafés
away lands, you can also order tasty sweets like cheese-
CoffeeRoom cake or different flavoured ice cream. QD‑5, Balkanska
2, tel. +381 69 3130 132/+381 11 2055 060. Open 07:30
- 22:00, Sat 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 08:30 - 21:00.
Kafe 16
Even though Kafe 16 is in our ‘Classic Cafés’ category, it
hides a story that makes it so much more than a classic
cafe. 16 is a social company that helps children included
in street work integrate into society, and has also cre-
ated a support system for every child in peril. The shel-
ter supports both children involved in street work and
those that are at risk of becoming a part of it. They help
wiches and salads), but primarily for enjoying a great educate the children over the age of 16 to start careers
coffee. This place is recognizable by two things: the qui- in bartending, which is where the name comes from.
et park by which it is located, and by the rich supply of The cafe itself is pretty laid-back with colourful furniture
sweets provided by the Homemade Company, including and great music of various genres. The staff is as wel-
cookies, ice cream and French macaroons. You can also coming and nice as their idea of supporting this noble
find them at Ušće Shopping Centre from 9 o’clock until cause. QE‑4, Cetinjska 15a, tel. +381 63 591 415. Open
22:30.QC‑5, Topličin venac 17, tel. +381 60 300 3234, 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00.
www.coffeeroom.rs. Open 08:00 - 23:00.
Kafeterija
Coffee, Tea & Sympathy While we’re a little reticent to push visitors in the di-
This café in Balkanska Street, right behind the Mosk- rection of cafe chains, Kafeterija isn’t your ordinary
Coffee, Tea & Sympathy va Hotel, is a great place to spend your afternoon, have cafe. With a number of locations dotted around the
a relaxing drink and enjoy the breathtaking view of Bel- city, it retains a certain sense of independence and
grade from the outdoor seats. The goal of the place is a credibility, thanks largely to the dedication to good
In addition to the eponymous Coffee, Tea & Sympathy, this cheekily named café behind the Moskva Hotel also offers a cosy interior
and breathtaking views of Belgrade promotion of tea and coffee-based drinks with the best coffee and a style that ticks all the boxes. You can buy
ingredients. Apart from a wide variety of amazing bever- the beans to take away, but we wholeheartedly rec-
should be put to one side when talking about Avia- ages prepared in a traditional way and those from far- ommend settling in for a long afternoon with some of
Classic Cafés tor Coffee Explorer. The name conjures up images of

intrepid cosmonauts in search of all things caffeine,
Amelie but you will find a down to earth mood and plenty
Inspired by the cult classic film with the same name, of excellent caffeine at one of the many locations
Amelie cafe offers everything you may need if your throughout the city. There are six Aviator cafes, Tera-
life was a romantic novel based in Paris. it is the per- zije 28, Gundulićev venac 59a, Čarlija Čaplina 26, Cara
fect spot to have a cup of tea, while wistfully looking Nikolaja II 42, Batutova 1 and Retail park Shoppi, Zren-
out the window, while some smooth jazz plays in the janinski put BB.QD‑6, Terazije 28, tel. +381 66 330
background. But even if you have interests other than 900. Open 07:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:30.
acting out movie scenes, their garden can often be
found full especially if they have a gig going on inside. Bookastore
QC‑5, Topličin Venac 4. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat This place is the black sheep of Belgrade cafes for
09:00 - 00:30. AP T B J 6 W many reasons, which doesn’t mean we like it any less
than others, on the contrary! What started as a book
Apropo shop, now has a cafeteria on top of it as well, and ev-
Hold on, tea over coffee and no smoking allowed? Are erything on the menu is locally produced. This itself
we still in Belgrade? Apropo bucks every trend, and is surprising to encounter in Belgrade, so the fact that
is a genuine treat as a result. Located just off of Knez it is both non-smoking and pet friendly really makes
Mihailova, it also works as a book shop, meaning the Bookastore a hidden gem. Don’t worry, there is no
holy trifecta of good literature, a languid atmosphere catch, you can easily find them just of Knez Miha-
and air free of tar is ready and waiting. The staff can be jlova street.Q C‑4, Cara Lazara 12, tel. +381 11 328
a little terse, but that might be smoker’s withdrawal. 5422, www.booka.in. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
QC‑4, Cara Lazara 10, tel. +381 11 262 5839, www. - 18:00, Closed Sun. AP G T J 6 W
apropo.co.rs. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00,
Closed Sun. G CoffeeRoom
Coffee Room at Topličin Venac (or “at the Palace”, how
Aviator neighbours like to call it) grew into a favourite meeting
While we can understand a certain reticence when it place over the course of only a few years. A frequent
comes to drinking in chain cafes, those expectations place for shorter business meetings, light lunches (sand-
Cafés Nightlife
the best coffee in town.QE‑3, Žorža Klemensoa 10,
tel. +381 11 406 3969, www.kafeterija.com. Open Editor’s Pick
07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. AP T B J W
Pržionica
Makadam Take a break while wandering the streets of trendy
Located in Kosancicev venac, the cobbled stone street lower Dorćol and stop for a coffee in Pržionica. It’s con-
of old Belgrade, Makadam offers a different experience. veniently located next to Dorćol Platz, a venue that of-
Combining a store and a bistro, it welcomes visitors to ten hosts vintage markets, festivals and gigs of various
enjoy a space designed to provide an escape to the fast kinds, so you will be in the company of some of Bel-
pace of modern living. The bistro with a terrace offers grade’s influencers and creatives. If you’re experienc-
great local wines, spirits and delicacies as well as little ing culture shock with all the smoking indoors, this
bites. QB‑5, Kosančićev Venac 20, tel. +381 11 4054 coffee roastery is an ideal place for you to enjoy a cup
755, www.makadam.rs. Open 09:00 - 00:00. of great coffee, without the fumes.QE‑3, Dobračina
59, www.przionica.rs. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
Natalie Cafe & Bistro 09:00 - 17:00. APGTBJ6W
Authentic French ambiance with rock, pop and French
rhythm, make Natalie Cafe & Bistro a real treat, just a
short walk away from the centre of town. It’s a per- which case you might also have a pup to pet as this place is
fect place for an afternoon coffee and some gossip very much pet friendly.QE‑4, Cetinjska 15. Open 09:00 -
with friends, or just some me time with a cup of tea 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. APTBEJ6W
and a good book. Impeccable service provided by
their helpful staff is one of the reasons they’ve got Zoom Art Café & Photo Studio (Art Cafe
such a loyal clientele. QD‑7, Kraljice Natalije 45, tel. and Photo Studio)
+381 64 002 8000. Open 07:00 - 24:00. Lower Dorćol is alive once again, and Zoom is another Streets of Belgrade are the most beautiful during the night, so even a return trip from a night partying is an experience to
excellent establishment blending together the com- remember.
OK.NO plimentary worlds of art and coffee. The upper level is
With pop, rock and blues tunes coming out of this given over to the gallery, while the ground floor is awash Belgrade is synonymous with nightlife. Wherever you go, cially at weekends, is Blaznavac. If you want to sip a cocktail
retro styled cafe bar, you might expect drinks to go with artists and everyday folk sipping coffee, tea, cock- you’ll be greeted by a positive vibe that will make you feel with a unicorn head hanging above you, surrounded by
with the ambience. And you would be right, since tails and the rest. If the question is ‘how much art can be at home, as if among friends. People go out on all nights of people talking loudly over music, this is the place you have
they have happy hour every day of the week, with stashed into a cafe?’, the answer can be found at Zoom. the week, and they do it spontaneously - at any given time been looking for. This is a famous first stop for drinks on our
Mondays being reserved for rakija, Tuesdays are for QE‑3, Dobračina 76, tel. +381 63 189 7567, www. and regardless of the amount of work that awaits them the way to one of Belgrade’s many clubs. We also recommend
tequila, Wednesdays for rakija cocktails etc. Their gar- zoomstudio.rs. Open 09:00 - 23:00. following day. The most exciting and busiest nights out on a coffee in their garden during the day, when it is not as
den rarely has a free seat, making it a great place to the town are not dictated by the day of the week but by packed, and it is easy to forget that you are in the centre of
spend an entire evening.QD‑5, Obilićev Venac 17,
tel. +381 11 262 9072. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
Dessert circumstances and events. The variety of clubs, venues and
bars is unmatched and we are certain that every visitor will
the city.QD‑4, Knjeginje Ljubice 18, tel. +381 11 3285857,
www.blaznavac.wordpress.com. Open 09:00-01:00, Fri,
08:00 - 01:00. Ispeci pa reci find what they are looking for here. The type of club that is Sat 09:00-02:00. €€. ABJ6W
Ispeci pa reci is the only pastry shop in Belgrade that specific for Serbia, and thus deserves special mention, are
Zaokret serves just American sweets. From creamy brownies, over the splavs (or splavovi to use the proper Serbian form) that Brankow Bar
The home of the Belgrade hipster scene. Zaokret is a part of the crunchy American pies, supersize muffins to unforget- adorn the river banks with their parties and music. Because A new project from the management team responsible
the Cetinjska complex, and is almost always full, and with good table cookies with as much as eight flavours. As you pass of their distance from residential areas, there is no need to for a handful of Belgrade’s more popular nightspots,
reason. They frequently host gigs and DJ sets that range from near, you’ll be drawn to the shop by the smell of vanilla, worry that the music will turn off and the lights will turn on, Brankow may end up being our favourite of the bunch as
jazz to house. You might have a better shot of finding a seat cinnamon and butter that spreads all around, and will bringing your night out to a halt. The list below provides a the interior bears all the standards trademarks of famed
if you pay a visit in the afternoon for coffee and a muffin, in wish to come back here due to irresistibility tasty sweets diverse selection of places, for everyone‘s taste. club architect Đorđe Gec, but at the same time manages
and pleasant atmosphere.QE‑4, Gundulićev venac 34, to maintain a moody, somewhat brooding industrial feel
tel. +381 11 339 1662, www.ispecipareci.rs. Open 08:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Bars that we can’t seem to get enough of these days. However,
those a bit light in the wallet should note that the prices,
Azbuka Bar attire and clientele here are not exactly budget traveller
Candy Square Beautiful garden bar and restaurant in the middle of one friendly.QC‑5, Crnogorska 12, tel. +381 69 8300 777,
This cute little diner all in pastel colours sells the most of the busiest streets in Belgrade. An oasis of sorts that www.brankow.com. Open 23:59 - 04:30, Closed Mon,
amazing sweets. Waffles with ice cream or colourful pan- offers an amazing fusion menu. A regular place for live Tue, Wed. APBK
cakes with chocolate and fruit toppings taste as divine music and drinks, and even though the entrance might
as they sound. Chocolate sprinkles galore on the top of hint otherwise, this venue is quite sophisticated with both Informbiro
sweet cream covered waffle. And just imagine a sugar- its interior and clientele.QD‑6, Kralja Milana 2, tel. +381 Located a few steps off Knez Mihailova, the city’s main
free pancake with three types of fruit, that is not even 11 4077 364. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, pedestrian street, Informbiro is known as the club of
cheating your diet, but it sure does taste like it. Their blue Closed Sun. the Belgrade Philharmonic. You can purchase tickets to
and pink, cupcake-like seats will make you feel like you’ve various concerts and theatrical performances along with
travelled back to the 1950s, the time of Elvis and rockabilly. Blaznavac your espresso or cocktail, and the ceiling has been signed
QMarka Nikolića 19, +381 11 2613 449. Open 09:00 - One of the most eccentric bars in Belgrade, also one of the by every member of the orchestra. Despite its decidedly
Amelie 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00 bars you are least likely to find a space in at any time, espe- upmarket connections, the place maintains a laid-back

Nightlife Nightlife
Đura Cafe Bar that they’ve got a smart casual dress code and an age
Streets in Belgrade change their names often, and this limit of 23.QB‑5, Karađorđeva 46, tel. +381 65 449
wine bar in Dorćol got its name after the previous name 5555, www.hypebelgrade.com. Open 00:00 - 05:00,
of the street in which it is located Đura Đaković Street. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun.
It can get quite energetic in here when the sun goes
down, with plenty of live music and DJs on hand to Kabinet
keep the party going late into the evening. Well, until Kabinet is one of the new breed of Serbian clubs that
two in the morning at least.QF‑4, Venizelosova 62, could be referred to as either a club with great food or a
tel. +381 64 910 8628, www.djurabar.rs/. Open 08:30 late opening restaurant with live music and a dance floor.
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 02:00. Whatever you call it, it’s got both good food and a great
party atmosphere for up to some 350 people. Find it on
Clubs Studentski trg (Student Square) next to the Ethnographic
Museum. QC‑4, Studentski Trg 15, tel. +381 69 2010
Drugstore 110. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
This club is often named as Belgrade’s equivalent of Ber-
lin’s infamous Berghain. With an industrial interior that Kasina by Community
features an ominous red light, this venue often hosts dark Kasina was once a pub that was transformed into a
techno parties, as well as other subgenres of electro mu- club. The venue is pretty big and it gets renovated ev-
sic, and is a haven for those that live at night. The entrance ery year, giving it a more or less permanently the look
fee is usually very cheap, making this a regular spot for of a brand new place, which the local love, as they turn
students. In the summer, they host parties in their garden, up here en masse to enjoy good pop and rock music by
providing a change from the sounds of bass echoing off some of the most famous Serbian artists. QD‑5, Tera-
their usual concrete walls. Check their Facebook and Ins- zije 25, tel. +381 63 111 121, www.kasinabar.rs. Open
tagram pages for more information on their most recent 08:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00.
events.QBulevar Despota Stefana 115, tel. +381 63
8287928. Fri, Sat 23:00 - 10:00. PE KC Grad
When it comes to nightlife it doesn’t get better than Belgrade. Newly opened club The Bank is the epitome of this. From afternoon coffee, evening drinks, through stand
Gadost up nights, drag nights and other various parties, this
atmosphere and is popular with locals from open till close. mosphere with all those vinyl records on the shelves and With a name that that literally means “disgust”, you can jewel of Sava Mala seems to do it all. When you are
QD‑4, Uskocko Sokace bb, tel. +381 65 471 3613. Open marvellous tables of wood and wrought iron and other vin- only imagine the kind of things that go on in there. Don’t unsure of where to spend your evening, check their
08:30-02:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 10:00. APB6W tage-looking furniture. QC‑3, Gospodar Jevremova 6, tel. let your imagination wander too much though, as this events on facebook to see if they are hosting some-
+381 11 324 7258/+381 65 324 7258, www.leila.rs/. Open venue genuinely isn’t that bad. A famous spot for after thing that might seem interesting to you, as this is a
Jazz Bašta 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 00:00. parties as the night takes off here when it ends elsewhere. place that captures the soul of Belgrade youth. It is
The name is a bit of a giveaway as to what you should ex- The industrial interior and pulsing techno beats put you pet friendly, child friendly, LGBT+ friendly and overall a
pect here, namely some fine jazz in an idyllic garden set- Rob Roy 1884 in a sort of limbo making it easy to forget what time it good night out.QB‑5, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. +381
ting. There is more to it than that of course, with a delightful Trains may no longer trundle into Belgrade’s monumental is. Nevertheless, a night out here is hard to forget. QB‑5, 11 3282 370, www.gradbeograd.eu. Open 12:00 -
interior and some fine food and drink on hand to accentu- central train station, but at least some of the iconic build- Karadjordjeva 44, tel. +381 69 8300 770. Thu 22:00- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
ate the smooth tones emanating from the speakers. The ing’s premises are being put to good use. This is where 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00-09:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
bar has a great view of Branko’s Bridge too, although it you’ll find Rob Roy, which according to their slogan pro- Mladost
admittedly isn’t the prettiest bridge in the city.QB‑5, Male vides “a bit of everything”. In most cases this “everything” Gotik Designed by noted nightspot architect Djordje Gec, this
stepenice, tel. +381 62 871 1475, www.jazzbasta.com/. includes whiskey, which should come as no surprise since Located in the popular Beton Hala waterfront area, Go- bar-cum-club is divided between two levels, upstairs
Open 17:00 - 01:00, Closed Tue, Wed, Thu. it’s named after the 17th Scottish outlaw and folk hero. tik might be one of the newest nightspots in Belgrade, there’s a long bar with colourful somewhat futuristic
Paying homage to the other side of the Atlantic, Rob Roy but it already regularly hosts some of the biggest furniture and design, while the basement below opts for
Kandahar is also the first and only Jack Daniels bar and grill in Serbia, names in Serbian music. A true luxury clubbing expe- cave-like aesthetics. Music takes centre stage here with a
A café named after the city in Afghanistan. The interior is with bourbon even finding its way into quite a few dishes rience, with state-of-the-art light and sounds systems mix of disco, funk, jazz and house, and separate DJ booths
decorated in the Oriental style and filled with colourful on the menu.QC‑6, Savski Trg br.2, tel. +381 66 6655 and simply gorgeous interior design, it’s not difficult to downstairs.QB‑5, Karadjordjeva 44, tel. +381 69 8300
pillows, and the exterior features an unusual open terrace 775. Open 09:00 - 02:00. see why it attracts crowds of beautiful and well-to-do 770. Open 10:00-05:00. APXJ
with low tables and canopies. With a large selection of tea Belgraders.QB‑4, Karađorđeva 2, tel. +381 65 2321
blends and alcoholic beverages, this is one of the few spots Soul Society 983/+381 62 8222 000, www.gotiknightclub.com/. Mr Stefan Braun
in town where you can try real Turkish coffee and Yeni Raki. Located in the same building as the Bitef Theatre, Soul So- Open 23:00 - 04:00. Located on the ninth storey of a commercial building,
QC‑3, Strahinjića Bana 48, tel. +381 11 291 0311. Open ciety is the place to go for sounds of real old-school soul, Mr Stefan Braun is a legendary nightspot throughout the
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. APB jazz and funk. Bring back the vibes of the good old days Hype entire region. There are lovely views of the city below
when this music could be heard everywhere, it’s a rare Located in Belgrade’s famous Savamala nightlife dis- and a large bar in the centre of the club, which is sturdy
Leila Records gem today, and definitely not the typical place you’d ex- trict, in the former premises of the legendary Mikser enough to endure the weight of the barmen and dancing
Leila Records is a unique bar just off the main Knez Mi- pect to find in Belgrade. The venue is also cool, with high House, Hype is a large, ultra-modern club with focus guests. The club hosts various themed nights depend-
hailova promenade, which also sells records and serves as ceilings, lots of exposed brick, tons of room and a great on electronic music - house and tech house to be ing on the day of the week, but is often packed, so try
an arts space. They host well-known local DJs who spin an atmosphere. QE‑4, Drinčićeva 1, tel. +381 63 377 420, exact. On certain nights the DJs will also be spinning to get there before 01:00, or you might have trouble get-
eclectic selection of music, especially jazz, soul and funk. www.soulsociety.rs. Tue 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - disco, R’n’B and various pop hits from the 80s and 90s. ting in.QD‑7, Nemanjina 4, tel. +381 65 5566 456, www.
The venue itself is filled with light and has a has unique at- 02:00, Closed Mon, Wed, Thu, Sun. To avoid disappointment at the door, it’s worth noting mrstefanbraun.rs. Open 23:00 - 07:00. PX

Nightlife Sightseeing
The Bank find this place packed, as it is greatly loved by locals.
Opened in Beton Hala, near the confluence of the Every Friday and Saturday rock gigs are hosted and on
Sava and Danube rivers, in 2016, The Bank is known for the long list of both local and international beers, they
its R’n’B parties, with some of the most popular Serbia have the very rare craft, Brent Red on tap and bottled
DJs spinning here on a regular basis. It’s a medium- Krueger. QG‑6, Dalmatinska 44, tel. +381 11 407
sized club by Belgrade’s standards, which can host 8641. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. €.
parties for up to 400 people. It’s almost always full, so PE J 6 W
you’ll definitely want to make reservations in advance
if you want any hope of getting in.QB‑4, Karađorđeva Samo Pivo
2-4, tel. +381 66 519 8888, www.thebank.rs. Open A pub whose name is literally “Just Beer”, so you get
00:00 - 04:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. the idea what to expect. They literally offer only beer.
But the beers that they do offer is of such various sorts
Pubs and all parts of the world. This unique concept shop is
located on a balcony area in Balkanska street, around
Black Turtle the corner from Hotel Moskva.QD‑6, Balkanska 13,
Craft beer is now well and truly on the menu in the www.samopivo.rs/. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
pubs of Belgrade, but The Black Turtle was there long - 01:00. AP B J W
before it came into fashion. A true Belgrade institu-
tion, the iconic pub has three locations across the Three Carrots Irish Pub
city centre that each offer something unique that al- Among the many Irish pubs in Belgrade, the Three
most demands a visit. The pub’s eponymous beers are Carrots takes the crown for authenticity. Although it
absolutely worth trying as well, for taste as much as isn’t the only place with draught Guinness, the beer
history. A fantastic mix of history, modernity and fine, there has the true taste of Ireland. Don’t be surprised
fine beer. QB‑4, Kosančićev Venac 30, tel. +381 11 if you bump into the few Irish ExPats watching rugby
3286656, www.theblackturtle.com/. Open 09:00 - on a Sunday, as this pub represents their home away
24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PE J 6 from home. QE‑6, Kneza Miloša 16, tel. +381 11 268
3748. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 -
Cigla i Krigla 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AP G X L
One of the many local pubs that brew their own beer.
Located in Dalmatinska street, you are most likely to
Adult Entertainment Belgrade is a city on a confluence of Sava and Danube rivers, which give it a certain charm, making it even more appealing as a blend of
nature and man-made creations. Photo by Goga Lukić
Black Rose VIP
Black Rose VIP is the most well-known and exclusive strip The legacy of wars has left behind deep scars on the Ada Ciganlija
club in Belgrade. Entry is free and in addition to the attractive city. Belgrade was razed to the ground 40 times and you Belgrade’s seaside isn’t quite on the coast, but you’ll
ladies on the stage providing seductive adult entertainment, will not find here a single building older than 250 years, be hard pressed to care once you set up shop along-
the Black Rose menu also has something for the ladies, with although it is one of the oldest cities in Europe. side the refreshing shores on Ada Ciganlija. When the
male dancers available on request. The club specialises in or- thermometer reaches its summer heights it seems as
ganising stag and hen nights, if you are in the mood to amp though the entire city descends upon this river island,
up your party to the extreme and make some bad decisions
before tying the proverbial knot to the old ball and chain.Q Must-See Attractions some for active recreation and others for the more
tranquil pastime of lying in the sun with a beer. It isn’t
Kneza Miloša 7, +381 65 616 75 25, www.blackrose.rs. Ada Bridge particularly easy to get to without a car or bike, so we
Open 22:00-06:00 One of the largest construction projects ever under- recommend downloading the Car:Go app and making
taken in Serbia (and at a cost of over €400m also one the trip a whole lot easier.
Romansa of the most expensive), after nearly eight years of
Just how romantic can a strip club get? We’ve honestly got planning and three years of construction the massive Church of St Sava
no idea, but more likely than not romance isn’t the first thing Ada Bridge was opened to the public at the stroke of Churches in the Balkans don’t come much more mono-
on patron’s minds here. In any event, some hot fun is guaran- midnight on 31 December 2011. Forever changing the lithic than this. That is a descriptor and a fact, as the
teed with 17 gorgeous girls, all of whom are experienced pro- skyline of Belgrade, the structure is the largest single Church of St Sava is the largest in the region and one of
fessional dancers ready to make sure you have a good time. pylon suspension bridge in the world, with separate the biggest Orthodox cathedrals on the planet. Built on
Romansa has two locations in the centre of Belgrade, and spans of 376m, 338m and 250m and a height of some the spot where the eponymous saint’s remains were
admission is free, so absolutely worth checking out if that’s 200m. Originally envisaged by urban planners as far supposedly burned to dust in 1594, work on the church
your bag.QE-4, Skadarska 40, +381 63 24 4561, www. back as 1923, the bridge will now form the centrepiece began in the late 19th century and continues to this day.
romansa-nightclub.com. Open 22:00 - 05:00 of the city’s new Inner City Semi-Ring Road, which will That work was understandably interrupted by World War
help divert traffic from city centre with three vehicle II, before Tito and the socialists decided it would make a
lanes, one tram track and one pedestrian/cycling lane good place for a car park. It wasn’t until 1985 that work
in each direction. Already featured in an episode of the on what many assumed was an old castle continued. The
Many more nightspots online at Discovery Channel’s popular series Build It Bigger, the interior is still under construction, but that adds a certain
iyp.me/belgrade bridge figures to become an essential tourist attraction humanity to this most impressive of spiritual buildings.
in the years to come.Qwww.savabridge.com. QE‑9, Svetosavski Trg.

Sightseeing Sightseeing
Kalenić Pijaca Museum of Yugoslavia nas with intense creative thought and emptying the
The biggest Belgrade open-air market is a vibrant
place which valiantly fights off competition from su-
Consisting of three separate buildings, the Museum
of Yugoslav History should be the first stop for visi-
cellars of whatever booze was available. The artists
have now been replaced with tourists, but the street Belgrade Fortress
permarkets. Besides the obvious fresh fruits, veggies,
meat, eggs, fish and seafood, honey, pickles and craft-
tors interested in the former Yugoslav state. With over
200,000 items the museum presents a comprehensive
remains one of the most energetic spots of this most
energetic city.QE‑4, Skadarska Street. (Kalemegdan)
work, you will find national delicacies such as sir (cot- picture of the country that existed from WWII till the
tage cheese) and kajmak (clotted cream). Take a walk 1990s, with special emphasis placed on the life and
through colourful stands, chat with the vendors and
you will be offered to taste fruits, cheese or prosciutto
work of Josip Broz Tito. In fact, the museums premises
contain the so-called House of Flowers, which is the Art Galleries
for free, and you will learn that fruits and veggies of final resting place of Tito. Meanwhile temporary ex- Art for All
perfect shape and colour, straight from greenhouses, hibitions and special events are held in the adjacent The conceptual gallery Art for All highlights modern
‘that have not seen the light of day’ are haughtily 25th of May museum, while the Old Museum houses a and contemporary art. Their goal is to wake up the col-
disdained and those with a beautifully fresh scent, dizzying array of gifts given to Tito by various foreign lector in each of us, offering affordable and accessible
sold by elderly women in headscarves, are vastly pre- dignitaries, statesmen and visiting delegations over local art and designs. Located in the most beautiful
ferred. The green market is lined with bakeries, pastry the years, and serves as a sort of mini-ethnological part of old Belgrade, at the Cathedral, you will find an
houses, restaurants and small shops. Try and visit this presentation of the represented countries. Definitely oasis of durable style and value. The Art for All gallery
wonderful green market before the end of the year as not to be missed!QMihaila Mike Jankovića 6, tel. is proof that straying away from the main streets has its
proposed renovations aim to make it look like a super- +381 11 3671485, fax +381 11 2660170, www.muzej- benefits!QD‑3, Kralj Petra 4. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat Located on a hill overlooking the confluence of the
market with a glass facade.QG‑9, Maksima Gorkog jugoslavije.org/. Open 10:00-18:00, Closed Mon. 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Sava river into the Danube. The Romans were the first
bb. Open 06:00 - 19:00. Admission 400din adults, 200din children. Under 10 to build a fort (castrum) at this site and in the late 1st
free. Singidunum Gallery century AD, it became HQ of the IV Flavian Legion.
Knez Mihailova Street The Singdunum gallery has been a centre of cultural, Over the centuries of sieges, battles and conquests,
It might not be the geographical centre of the city, Pobednik touristic and business events of Belgrade for the past the fortress was repeatedly razed to the ground, re-
but it is hard to argue against Knez Mihailova being The major symbol of Belgrade, the Pobednik (Victor) 40 years. The name of this gallery is what Belgrade con- built and restructured. It took on its present shape
the middle of Belgrade’s intangible essence. The most statue stands tall in the upper part of the city’s fortress, nects to its ancient history, as the city itself was named round the end of the 18th century, but again, the wars
famous street in the city is also its most popular, and proudly looking out over the Sava river towards New Singidunum, and it is a sales-type gallery for works in that followed swept away nearly all the buildings.
all generations of Belgraders can be found strolling up Belgrade and on to the rest of Europe. Victory is given the field of applied and fine arts. All exhibits are pieces Belgrade Fortress consists of Upper Town, Lower
and down its tiles from early in the morning until late at the form of a naked man with a falcon in one hand and made by the members of the Serbian Society of Ap- Town and Kalemegdan Park. Kalemegdan Park
night. The street is lined with shops, cafes, restaurants a sword in the other, and this déshabillé was the rea- plied Art, and you can find anything from unique ce- was created as late as the 19th century, on a plateau
and buildings of interest, along with a roster of buskers son behind the statue’s current position. It was initially ramics, sculptures, lighting fixtures, paintings, prints, in front of the fortress, which had been cleared for
that range from dishevelled squawkers all the way to supposed to be located on Terazije, but the elderly in icons, painted textiles, jewellery, souvenirs, etc. A centuries to allow for unobstructed view of the ad-
impeccable orchestral quartets.QC‑4. the neighbourhood weren’t happy at the prospect of smaller second gallery (Mala galerija), with oft-chang- vancing enemy. The park is popular because of its
looking at bronze buttocks all the time. The monument ing exhibitions, is located a few minutes walk away many shady benches, random sculptures, art pavil-
was thus moved to Kalemegdan where it has stayed at Uzun Mirkova 12.QC‑4, Knez Mihailova 40, tel. ion, Zoo, amusement park, souvenir vendors. It is
ever since, although it has slowly been tilting.QKale- +381 11 2185 323, www.galerijasingidunum.com. the favourite haunt of chess players, squirrels and
megdan. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun. couples in love.
The most of the preserved fortress ramparts and
Republic Square gates are located in the Upper town, as well as the
If you’re making plans to meet with friends in the cen-
tre of Belgrade, you are more than likely going to be Churches Military Museum, St. Petka and Ružica churches,
Roman Well (an intriguing building whose eerie
meeting here. We could probably even narrow that When you visit churches and other religious buildings, waters claimed many lives) and the symbol of Bel-
down to meeting ‘kod konja’ (‘below the horse’), and you are expected to behave respectfully and speak qui- grade - Pobednik (The Victor). The plateau with the
Belgrade’s Republic Square is well and truly the cen- etly. Churches are open throughout the day and you can statue of Pobednik offers stunning views over the
tral meeting point in the city. It also happens to be enter even during a service, but try not to interrupt it or rivers and incredible sunsets. The Lower Town at
ringed by some seriously impressive sights, including draw attention to yourself. You are not allowed to enter the banks of the Danube was the main city centre
the National Museum, National Theatre and more. The wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt, with your belly ex- in the Middle Ages. It was surrounded by walls and
horse in question is the statue of Prince Mihailo atop posed... Women are not allowed in the altar area behind had a port. Only a few buildings remain today: Kula
his trusty steed.QD‑5, Trg Republike. the iconostasis. Taking photos with permission only. Nebojša (Daredevil Tower) from 1460, Turkish Bath
from the 18th century (today housing a planetari-
Skadarlija Cathedral Church um), Gate of Carl VI from 1736.QB‑3. Open 00:00
Belgrade’s Bohemian Quarter isn’t entirely Bohemian The main church of the city, dedicated to St Michael - 24:00. No admission fee.
and constitutes more of a street than a quarter, but the Archangel. The present church (from 1845) was
that doesn’t make it any less essential when visiting the built on the site of a former Cathedral Church, dating
Serbian capital. A cobblestoned thoroughfare lined by from the 16th century, which had been repeatedly de- Serbian rulers of the Obrenović dynasty - Miloš, Mi-
restaurants, bars and artisanal stores from top to bot- molished and desecrated by the Ottoman Turks. The hailo and Milan. The interior is richly decorated with a
tom, it has come a long way from being where those church treasures the holy remains of Serbian saint Em- gold-plated carved iconostasis. Across from the church
the city deemed undesirable were forced to live in the peror Uroš (the last of Nemanjić Royal house), and it is is the seat of the Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox
Skadarska Street in the Skadarlija bohemian quarter is usually one of Bel- Church, a building completed in 1935.QC‑4, Kneza
grade’s most bustling spots to dine, drink and stroll, photo by Vladimir 19th century. The early 20th century saw the writers, the burial site of some of the most important figures in
artists and drunks of the city move in, filling the kafa- Serbian history: Vuk Karadžić, Dositej Obradović, and Sime Markovića bb.
Nenezic/Shutterstock.com

There’s no more fitting place to ring in the Orthodox New Year on the night of 13 January than one of the largest Orthodox churches in the
world, the massive St Sava in Vračar, photo by Nenad Nedomacki/Shutterstock.com
St Mark’s Church architecture heralds your arrival into the rump of the capi-
Serbia has no shortage of religious buildings, and Belgrade’s tal. Belgrade doesn’t get any more Brutalist than this. The
Church of St. Mark is without doubt one of its most striking. taller of the two towers is actually residential, while offices
This Serbo-Byzantine beauty is located in Tašmajdan Park and neglect occupy the second one.QNarodnih Heroja.
and was built in 1940, and it stood tall as the largest Serbian
church until work resumed on the Church of St. Sava. The
interior is full of the usual frescoes and icons, with the work
of some of Serbia’s most beloved painters adorning the Mosque
walls.QE‑6, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 17. Bajrakli Mosque
Considering Belgrade spent five centuries under the Islamic
fist of the Ottoman Empire, it is either very surprising or en-
Historic Buildings tirely understandable that just one mosque remains from
those times. Bajrakli Mosque is thus the centre of modern
Gardoš Tower (Millennium Tower) day Islam in Belgrade, a fairly unassuming structure in
Located on Gardoš, approached by a path leading from Dorćol that seemingly comes out of nowhere. It is named
Grobljanska Street. It was built by Hungarians in 1896, to after the flag that was once raised to initiate the beginning
celebrate a thousand years of their presence in the Pan- of prayers in the city, although today that flag heralds wor-
nonian Plain. Four such towers were erected on the bor- ship in one mosque as opposed to nearly 300.QC‑3, Gos-
der, and this one marks the southernmost corner of the podar Jevremova 11, tel. +381 11 262 24 28. J
empire. It was built on ruins of a 15th century fortress. It
has been closed to the public for some time now, but is
well worth a visit because Gardoš, an old part of Zemun,
is such a quaint romantic place. Only a twittering of swal- Museums
lows interrupts the calm of narrow cobbled streets and Military Museum
rows of low houses. Gardoš features a broad array of small While we would love to describe Belgrade’s Military Mu-
cafés and fish restaurants, and the plateau in front of the seum as ‘hidden within Kalemegdan’, it is difficult for some-
tower offers magnificent views of the city.QVisoka bb. thing to be hidden when there are a load of old tanks out-
side it. The history of Belgrade is impossible to tell without a
Genex Tower litany of military tales, and this museum tells that story with
Love it or hate it, Belgrade’s Genex Tower is pretty difficult a little bit of Serbian bias sprinkled on top for good measure.
to ignore. That is especially true if you are entering the city QKalemegdan, tel. +381 11 3343 441, www.muzej.mod.
from the west, as the formidable piece of otherworldly gov.rs. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon.
www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 35
Sightseeing Sightseeing
Department of Textile and Costume, Department of National Museum
Metal Jewellery, Ceramic, Porcelain and Glass Section,
Department of Photography and Applied Graphics, De-
The National Museum in Belgrade is a complex mu-
seum. It is the largest and oldest central museum of LOCAL STORIES:
partment of Contemporary Applied Arts and Depart-
ment of Architecture.QC‑4, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel.
Serbia, which today, after its long existence since being
founded in 1844, preserves more than 400,000 objects BELGRADE MILLENNIUM
+381 11 2626 841, www.mpu.rs/. Open 11:00 - 19:00, that make up a unique cultural heritage of Serbia, the
Closed Mon, Sun. Central Balkans, and Europe. The new permanent ex-
hibition of the museum encompasses the immense
Museum of Jovan Cvijić chronological range from the distant Palaeolithic era
The Museum of Jovan Cvijić is located in the house to the art of the 20th century. After being closed for
where the famous scientist, geographer, and anthro- 15 years, we can finally visit this true Serbian land-
pologist used to live. The building was constructed mark. QD‑5, Trg Republike 1, tel. +381 60 807 5104,
in 1905, in accordance with Cvijić’s drawings, and the www.narodnimuzej.rs. Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun 10:00 -
interior was designed by Dragutin Inkiostri Medenjak 18:00, Thu, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon. Free ad-
in an Art Nouveau style, underlined by elements of Ser- mission on Sundays. PG T J
bian traditional applied arts. Both the house, and the
garden showcase the spirit of the early 20th century. Nikola Tesla Museum
QJelene Ćetković 5, +381 11 322 3126. Open 10:00 - Undoubtedly the most popular Serbian of the last cen- Seven thousand years have passed since the first
17:00 , Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. tury, Nikola Tesla’s life is covered in this small museum urban settlement in Europe was born on the rim
in Vračar. A short video gives a strong overview of the of Belgrade. It was known as Vinca, after which a
Museum of Vuk and Dositej great man, before visitors get the chance to interact great cultural era is still called today. This is not the
The Museum of Vuk and Dositej, technically a memorial with some of his most famous inventions. The rest of beginning of a story about Belgrade, but about Eu-
museum, is dedicated to the two great characters of the museum is given over to a Tesla-centric exhibition. rope. So today we can recognize the place where
Serbian culture, the first Serbian Minister of Education If you are in any way curious about the life of the Elec- today’s “Old Lady” was born. Perhaps this is the
Dositej Obradović and the reformer of the Serbian lan- tric Jesus, be sure to make a beeline for the Nikola Tesla reason why the story of this city is the most ruth-
guage and the creator of the Serbian literary language, Museum.QF‑8, Krunska 51, tel. +381 11 24 33 886, less. All the miraculous energies in this area some-
Vuk Karadzić. The museum building is located in one of www.nikolateslamuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 20:00, where had their eruption in this place – the site of
Kalemegdan Fortress has countless corner to explore, photo by Vladimir the oldest parts of Belgrade, together with the Bajrak- Closed Mon. some 115 battles, and demolished or burnt to the
Nenezic/Shutterstock.com li Mosque and Šeih-Mustafa turbet, is an architectural ground some 40 times.
testimony of the long-standing presence of Turkish Petar Lubarda Heritage House The city has endlessly sustained the most brutal,
Museum of African Art rule in Belgrade. The museum is located in the oldest The legacy of Petar Lubarda, the house where the artist historic blows in this part of the world. And again,
The Museum of African Art in Belgrade is the only preserved residential building in Belgrade, which was lived with his wife Vera, is located in the residential part contemporary Belgrade keeps many traces of in-
Museum in the region entirely dedicated to promot- built in the first half of the 18th century. As part of the of Dedinje. Petar Lubarda is one of the most important numerable civilizations that left their seals on it.
ing the arts and cultures of the African continent. As National museum, here you will be able to find vari- protagonists of the contemporary history of Yugoslav The National Museum exhibits the oldest Roman
part of the Socialist Yugoslav context, at the time of ous memorabilia commemorating these two men, and art. His exhibition in 1951 announced the break with monuments preserved from the time of the Sin-
its opening to the public in 1977, the Museum was Serbian culture throughout history. QD‑3, Gospodar the art of social realism and an introduction to the art digunum, as originally called the settlement at the
promoted as the only anti colonial European museum. Jevremova 21, www.narodnimuzej.rs/. Open 10:00 - of abstraction. The villa in Dedinje exhibits works in a confluence of the Sava in the Danube. The Romans
To this day the Museum continues to foster good rela- 18:00, Closed Tue. permanent setting in which visitors can see part of the even had colossal plumbing and underfloor heat-
tions with the African diplomatic community in Bel- gift, composed of paintings, furniture, photographs ing systems, seen only in the most developed cit-
grade, institutions in Africa, and aims to maintain a and correspondence left by the artist and his wife to ies of the empire.
referential role in the wider European academic field his beloved city.QIličićeva 1, tel. +381 11 7700 299, Every century brought new traces and demoli-
of African Studies. Besides collection based exhibi- Editor’s Pick www.kucalegata.org/. tions, but also new architecture, as different styles
tions, the museum’s aspires to host internationally re- quickly shifted in it. But this is the trouble of the
nowned and yet to be recognised artists from the Afri- Museum of Contemporary Art Princess Ljubica’s Residence (Konak inhabitants of this city, which they say have “built
can continent or artists with an “African” background. (MSUB) Kneginje Ljubice) a house in the middle of the road”. That was the
QAndre Nikolića 14, tel. + 381 11 2651 654, www. After being closed for more than 10 years, the Princess Ljubica’s Residence is one of the most impor- case, so it is today. The last waves of the Pannonian
mau.rs/en/. Open 10:00-18:00. newly renovated museum of contemporary art is tant monumental buildings in Belgrade, and one on the Sea lapped the Victory monument on Kalemeg-
an important stop when visiting the left side of rare preserved memorials of the Obrenović dynasty. It dan 13.5 million years ago. And, apparently, it has
Museum of Applied Art the river. Besides the historical relevance that it was under construction from 1829 to 1831 as a court never been quiet here since the ancient sea has
The Museum of Applied Arts was founded in 1950, and holds, the museum is a testimony for Yugoslavian of Prince Miloš Obrenović, but due to the fact that the withdrawn from these areas. From fossils of marine
belongs to the category of specialised artistic muse- and Serbian art, something people don’t hear Turkish army resided nearby, Milos used it occasion- animals and shells to cannon shells and missiles
ums. Its original collection consisted of a collection of about too often. Explore the five levels of this ally and built another residence in Topčider. After exile from several gigantic conflicts in the last century
3000 items collected by the famous painter and graph- unique building as an introduction to the vari- of Obrenović family in 1842 it lost its original purpose. - Belgrade keeps everything!
ic artist Ljuba Ivanović, and over the years the collec- ous galleries, exhibitions and festivals you might After reconstruction, in 1980s it became a part of Bel-
tion has been enriched with purchases, gifts from citi- stumble across, as well as the brutalist architec- grade City Museum. “Interiors of XIX century Belgrade Zoran Nikolić is a journalist, writer and tourist guide.
zens and donor legacies. Today, the museum has more ture you will be seeing around the city.QA‑4, houses” is permanently exhibited there.QC‑4, Kneza Discover more of the city’s countless stories on the
than 37,000 applied art pieces, including works of ex- Ušće 10, tel. +381 11 3115 713, www.msub.org. Sime Markovića 8, tel. +381 11 263 8264, www.mgb. Belgrade Underground Tour (www.beogradispod-
ceptional artistic and cultural significance. The muse- rs. Open 10:00-18:00, Closed Tue. org.rs. Tue, Wed, Thu, Sat 10:00-17:00, Fri 10:00-18:00, beograda.com).
um has eleven sections: Department of Style Furniture, Sun 10:00-14:00, Closed Mon.

Sightseeing Leisure
Sekulić Icon Collection
Part of Belgrade City Museum, this collection of
icons was assembled in the post-war period by Milan
and Pava Sekulić. There are some 165 icons in all, from
Greece, Russia and Serbia, which provide an insight
into the history of iconography in Orthodox Christian-
ity between the late 14th and mid-19th centuries. The
Collection also includes paintings and works of applied
arts.QUzun Mirkova 5, +381 11 2182 961. Open Fri
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Parks & Gardens Don’t let a little snow stop you from visiting the Monument to the
Unknown Soldier at the top of Mt Avala near Belgrade, photo by Milos
Avala Mountain
jaksic/Shutterstock.com
Located some 16km from the city centre, though en-
tirely within the municipality of Belgrade, at 511 metres well-connected to the city centre by public transport,
Mount Avala earns its title by a scant eleven metres and is most easily reached by bus from the Trošarina
but owing to the surrounding lowlands it still provides neighbourhood.QT6 K
beautiful panoramic views of the city and beyond. The
mountain has been protected as a nature reserve since Košutnjak
1859 by the order of Prince Miloš Obrenović of Serbia, Belgrade has gained itself a reputation for being a grey
who originally intended to have it surrounded by a city, but this is unfair to say the least. The city is full
massive fence, and has served as a recreational area for of lush parks and tree-lined boulevards, and Košutnjak
the residents of Belgrade for even longer. Aside from is one of our favourites when it comes to the former.
Don’t believe your eyes at the Museum of Illusions
an abundance of animal species the mountain is also Loving referred to as the city’s ‘oxygen factory’, what
known for its diverse plant life, which includes some began as a hunting ground for the rich has evolved into
600 species of flowers, herbs and trees - many of which one of Belgrade’s most popular parks all year round. Museum of Illusions petitive spirits all in one go.QGradski Park 2, tel. +381 11
are also protected due to their rarity. A wide variety of flora can be found here, along with The Museum of Illusions has more than 70 exhibits that 377 1612, www.zabac.rs, zemun@zabac.rs. Open 10:00
Man-made sights can also be found in abundance on a small number of cute mammals like hedgehogs and will surely make you awe in amazement. It is a great - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 00:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00
the mountain, including the Monument to the Un- squirrels. It makes an excellent excursion from town, place for all who like to puzzle their mind with optical
known Hero (completed in 1938 and dedicated to the and you can find many activities to fill your day, such illusions and possibly intrigue and confuse their friends Belgrade Bike Central
unknown Serbian soldier from World War I), a Memo- as horseback riding, biking and jogging. The 330 hect- with memorable photos. The museum teaches about Belgrade is a city with many faces, distinct cities within a
rial Park (in honour of the victims of World War II), the are space is sprinkled with picnic tables that are often vision, perception and human brain, which might help city. To see them all in short amount of time, renting a bi-
Monument to Soviet War Vetrans (commemorating visited by locals playing music out of their cars while you understand how your brain works and why your cycle is the best option. A city bike for a day or a couple of
Red Army officers killed in a plane crash on Avala in firing up a barbecue.QKneza Višeslava. brain can’t comprehend what your eyes see. QD‑5, days is the best thing to do if you want to discover the city
1964) and the Monument of Vasa Čarapić (one of the Nušićeva 11, tel. +381 63 611 911, www.muzejiluzija. on your own, especially since Belgrade developed a net-
leaders of the First Serbian Uprising in 1804, which Tašmajdan Park rs. Open 9:00 – 22:00. work of bike lanes. They also offer any technical support
liberated Belgrade from the Turks). The mountain is It may have been unveiled in the 1950s, but Vračar’s you might need, but if you want to hear stories, to see
Tašmajdan Park only received its current aesthetic fol- The Code Escape Rooms those hidden, of-the-beaten-path places, then our guid-
lowing a major upgrade in 2010. What an upgrade it An escape room is a physical adventure game in which ed tour is highly recommended. It was voted as one of the
was, a peaceful place of recreation that is light years players are locked in a room and have to use elements of
Tourist Information away from hosting Karadjordje’s band of rebels or the the room to solve a series of puzzles and escape within
top 10 European alternative tours by Guardian magazine
and it won the Certificate of excellence on Tripadvisor in
bombs of NATO in 1999. A children’s theatre was among a set time limit. Code Escape Rooms’ second generation 2018.QC-5, Kraljevića Marka 6, tel. +381 61 6269 297,
Tourist Organisation of Belgrade the buildings destroyed in the latter, and a monument rooms are carefully designed to deliver the whole new es- www.belgradebikecentral.com.
In addition to promoting tourism in the Serbian to the young lives lost stands in the centre of the park. cape experience, however, and provide the perfect activ-
capital both at home and abroad, the Tourist Or- QF‑6, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43. TJ 6 K ity for friends and families, tourists, date nights, celebra-
ganisation of Belgrade, or just TOB for short, oper- tions and of course team building.QC‑4, Nikole Spasica
ates several tourist info centres in the city. The most 3, tel. +381 65 225 3439, www.codescape.rs/. Open
convenient for visitors is on Knez Mihailova pedes-
trian street near Kalemegdan, while those arriving
Tours 11:00 - 23:30.
by plane at Nikola Tesla airport will also pass one in Explore Belgrade Bowling Club Žabac
the baggage claim area. If you don’t see any In Your Private and small group tours with Explore Belgrade The first Žabac Bowling Club was opened in Zemun in
Pocket guides or maps on the shelves, ask if they’ve are an awesome way to get to know the city, and ex- 2011, later opening a second venue in down in the south-
got any behind the counter as they seem a popu- perience the culture. With a team of licenced guides ern neighbourhood of Vidikovac. Both options are a bit far
lar item with visitors.QD‑5, Knez Mihailova 56, and heritage interpretors, professional yet fun, ready to from the centre, but are definitely worth your time, be-
tel. +381 11 26 35 622, www.tob.rs. Open 09:00 answer all your questions about the city and show you cause bowling is fun for all ages, no matter if you are 7 or
- 19:00, Sun 10:00-15:00. its highlights.QStojana Protića 45, +381 64 153 1524, 77. An awesome idea for a first date or family time, or even
www.explore-belgrade.com team building, to help foster both team work and com-
Health & Wellness Shopping
Spas Hospitals
Passpartù Spa
If you need a break from accumulated everyday stress or Bel Medic
just want to relax and enjoy a nice evening, Passpartù Spa Bel Medic was the very first private practice to open
is the place for you - a peaceful little oasis in the very heart in Serbia. Founded in 1995 by Dr Jasmina Knežević
of the busy city. Whether you prefer the steam bath, or a and Milan Knežević, at that time it had only three
sauna, Jacuzzi or a massage, it’s all available here, you just employees in a shared space. Nowadays, Bel Medic
have to choose which you prefer, or really treat yourself has some 600 doctors at five locations around the
and take a bit of everything. QD‑4, Kneginje Ljubice city. Bel Medic is open 24 hours a day, every day of
20, tel. +381 60 727 2295, www.passpartu-home.com. the week, and are equipped with the latest state-of-
Open 08:00 - 00:00. the-art technology, to provide maximum efficiency
and service.QKoste Jovanovića 87, tel. +381 11
Royal Wellness Centar 309 1000, www.belmedic.rs
Royal Wellness Centar’s slogan ‘swim and enjoy’ paints a
good picture of the atmosphere here. The spa includes a Bel Medic Novi BeogradQPalmira Tol-
large number of different ways to enjoy oneself, includ- jatija 1, tel. +381 11 309 1000
ing a pool, Jacuzzi, Turkish bath, saunas and salt room, all Bel Medic slavijaQKneginje Zorke 7, tel.
designed in the latest fashion. To ensure your complete +381 11 309 1000
relaxation, there’s also a cafe area where you can enjoy Bel Medic Voždovac IIQViktora Igoa 1, tel.
detox beverages, and also some fun programmes to keep +381 11 309 1000
the youngest guests entertained. QRada Neimara 11,
tel. +381 60 0404 124, www.royalwellness.rs.
seurs. Thai Spa can be found at two attractive locations
Thai Spa in Belgrade, Strahinjića Bana 8 and Đorđa Stanojevića 9v.
The idea behind this spa is just the simple wish to provide Our personal favourite is the massage with aromatherapy
people in these parts with an opportunity to become oils, as it both feels and smells great.QD‑3, Strahinjića
familiar with the benefits of Thai massages, based on a bana 8, tel. +381 65 328 3786, www.thaispa.rs/. Open If you need to look your best in Belgrade, Hugo Boss is there for you
long tradition of natural treatment with professional mas- 10:00 - 22:00.
Belgrade has quite a few major shopping malls where and also buy some cool stuff. Perhaps a nice t-shirt,
you can expect major brands such as Zara, HM and a hoodie that will always keep you warm and re-
such. However, there are a few fashion districts in the mind you of the days spent in Belgrade, or a wallet
city that you should definitely keep an eye on. Local for a friend, because everyone needs one, no matter
designers provide products of all sorts that or on trend whether they use cash or card. All their souvenirs are
and unique. Concept stores are also a big thing, where designed in an authentic street style in collaboration
you can purchase custom accessories and souvenirs. with the local artists.QD‑5, Čika Ljubina 7, tel. +381
62 837 3800. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
Concept Stores Gradstor
Fab Living by Una KC Grad has been cooperating with various designers and
Fab Living by Una is a modern and personal approach artists since its founding, so Gradstor somehow originat-
to retail, offering carefully chosen pieces of fashion, ed from the idea of gathering all of them in one place. KC
home decor as well as original works of art. Living Grad’s fashion shows create a community of artists and
in all corners of the world, for many years, Una was designers that then sell their pieces in this store. The cut-
exposed to international cultures and in that way ting edge of Serbian fresh fashion scene. Recommended.
gained a different perspective of art, which she now QC‑4, Pop-Lukina 1, tel. +381 11 263 2236. Open 12:00
incorporates into her shop. When in doubt about re- - 20:00, Sat 16:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun.
tailing, she always questions her refined tastes for the
best results. Her concept store of more than 130 m2 Makadam
presents the Serbian fashion, Contemporary Serbian The store presents a curated collection of fashion
art collection, but also a selection of handmade inte- and homeware made by Serbia’s finest artisans and
rior design products.QF‑7, Krunska 50, tel. +381 11 designers, products created for the Makadam brand,
2434 838. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. as well as a selection of natural cosmetics, books,
art and vintage objects. The vintage items are espe-
Gradski Kutak cially interesting for they tell a tale of Serbian culture
At Gradski Kutak you can have a tasty homemade and how people of this country used to live. QB‑5,
drink, like a cup of coffee with a Turkish delight or Kosančićev Venac 20, tel. +381 11 4054 755, www.
a raspberry juice, try unusual food combinations makadam.rs. Open 12:00 - 20:00.

Shopping Shopping
Small & Tall Concept Store
Fantasia di Yeya is a brainchild of Jelena Bukvić
Atanasković, who’s originally from Cetinje in Montene-
gro and now lives in Belgrade. Former Yugoslav mon-
asteries inspired Jelena to create this authentic brand,
and it actually became the first one with monastic
patterns. It is an exceptional example of how one art
springs from another. When this pattern is combined
with contemporary trends it creates a real piece of
art, suitable for a strong and modern woman. You can
also buy her designs in several stores, including Art for
All, Fab Living and Beogradski izlog. QE‑7, Svetozara
Markovića 27, tel. +381 65 900 5557/+381 11 400
8561. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun.
Victory
Victory is a local fashion brand dedicated to modern
and contemporary women, emphasising her individu-
ality and her own style. Their pieces are made from
imported Italian materials of top quality such as wool,
silk, and viscose. What makes them truly special is de-
sign and quality. In addition to the Victory brand, at
their lovely boutique in the old town you can also buy
various other Italian brands, such as the Save My Bag
and beautiful jumpers from Alpha Studio.QC‑4, Kneza
Sime Markovića 10, www.victoryfashiohouse.rs/. MERKATOR CENTAR BEOGRAD
Open 12:00 - 20:00. PJ movem.rs
Hugo
Fashion & Accessories Hugo is a brand of authentic clothes for both men and
Boss women. Bold styles and superb designs, suitable for any-
Whether you need business apparel, sportswear or elegant one who enjoys using fashion as a form of expression and
evening attire, BOSS offers it all. Authentic luxurious fashion understands what great power clothing has. Whether
for both men and women, made from high quality mate- casual or formal, all their clothes are well tailored from
rials with extraordinary fit. Their classic, fashionable and refined materials and really give value for money. QD‑4,
modern creations are suitable for every occasion. The shop Čika Ljubina 12, tel. +381 64 812 1054. Open 10:00 -
is located in the very centre of Belgrade, close to the main 20:30 , Sat 10:00 - 18:00 , Sun 11:30 - 15:30.
promenade and just around the corner from its brother
Hugo.QD‑4, Zmaj Jovina 18, tel. +381 60 8121 060. Open
10:00 - 20:30 , Sat 10:00 - 18:00 , Sun 11:30 - 15:30.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Beogradski Izlog
Furs This well laid-out showroom conveniently located at the
end of Knez Mihailova just off Trg Republike, not only of-
fers an assortment of original souvenirs, but there’s also
Krzno Stevanović two separate bookstores, a ticket service office and even
The Krzno Stevanović brand is a fusion of handmade a café. When it comes to deciding what to take home
artistry and a genuine love of the craft, which has with you, we wish you the best of luck, as they’ve got
been passed down through the family for genera- everything from locally designed shirts and bags to Yugo-
tions. Distinctive designs, exceptional craftsmanship themed snow globes featuring the stalwart visage of Jo-
and the careful selection of only the finest furs is sip Broz Tito.QD‑5, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. +381 11 2631
what makes Stevanović products unique. Their retail 721, www.kcb.org.rs. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
salon can be found at Belgrade’s Hyatt Regency ho- 15:00. Closed Sun.
tel, where there’s an impressive selection of unique
handmade fur creations as well as custom-made ser-
Milentija Popovića 5, Novi Beograd (hotel Hyatt Regency Belgrade) vices. QMilentija Popovića 5, tel. +381 62 851 81 Many more shops online at
82/+381 11 711 00 13, www.krznobundesubare.
+381 62 851 81 82 / +381 11 711 00 13 com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/belgrade/shopping
web: www.krznobundesubare.com • e-mail: krznostevanovic@gmail.com
facebook: Krzno Stevanovic • instagram: @furs_stevanovic
Shopping Where To Stay
Tricikl
Located in a building once owned by the family of a real- Editor’s Pick
life WWII double agent that inspired Ian Fleming in cre-
ating 007, Tricikl shop is a go-to place for innovative and Boya Porcelain Shop & Studio
contemporary souvenirs that tell the story of Belgrade If arts and crafts are more your thing, Boya Porcelain
and Serbia through works of young Serbian designers. is a stop that shouldn’t miss. Their selection of por-
Nikola Tesla’s patents as t-shirts or wall art, Cyrillic alpha- celain pieces is delicately designed featuring beauti-
bet totes, award-winning design home decor pieces, ful pastel hues and is crafted on the spot. If you’re
handcrafted leather notebooks, chocolates with a Serbian left feeling inspired, we have some great news: at
twist, inspiring books and so much more is waiting for Boya you can actually participate in creating your
you at their downtown location.QD‑4, Francuska 5, tel. own custom set, and be a part of the whole cre-
+381 11 406 99 87, www.tricikl.rs. Open 09:00 – 21:00, ative process. If your Belgrade trip has ended before
Sat 10:00- 20:00, Sun 12:00 – 18:00. your ceramic pieces are finished, the nice people
of Boya can ship your unique set to your home.
Amazing!QE‑4, Zetska 4a, tel. +381 64 301 76 98,
Shopping Centres www.boyaporcelain.com/. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon, Sun. Townhouse 27 was the first place we stayed in Belgrade on a business trip almost a decade ago, and it’s still one of the finest accommodation options
Big Fashion in town today
Another new addition to Belgrade’s shopping scene,
Big Fashion opened in spring 2017, offering more than and multi-brand stores. With an affluence of local Despite many recent additions, Belgrade could easily do with Holiday Inn
100 shops and views of the Danube.QVišnjička 84, and international brands, as well as great restaurants more hotels, in every category. There are days, especially during Popular for business travellers, as it’s got a business cen-
www.bigfashion.rs. Open 10:00 - 22:00. and breathtaking views of the city, the fundamentals big international events, when rooms in the city are somewhere tre and 14 meeting and conference rooms. Reliable chain.
of shopping in Belgrade are evolving, and Rajiceva between difficult and impossible to find. If you seek comfort QŠpanskih Boraca 74, tel. +381 11 310 00 00, fax +381
Mercator Centar Shopping Center is where it’s happening.QC‑4, Kneza and luxury, there is an array of hotels built over the past ten 11 310 01 00, www.holidayinn.com.
Very popular shopping centre housing a self service res- Mihaila 54, www.rajicevashoppingcenter.rs. Open years, well-worth their price tags. On the budget end, you can
taurant, children’s playroom, supermarket, cafés, a post 09:00 - 22:00. AP T U B L J W K get a nice and cheap cabin in a floating hostel moored in the Hyatt Regency
office and a bank open on Sundays.QBulevar Umet- Danube, offering a great view of an island providing refuge for As far as hotels go, the Hyatt is the ideal place to let off
nosti 4, www.mcentargrand.rs. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Ušće Shopping Centre 196 bird species. In the mid-range categories, be aware of some some steam, whether in the spa, restaurant or bar.QMi-
Everything you’d expect from the largest shopping centre of the old hotels time seems to have stopped in late eighties, for lentija Popovića 5, tel. +381 11 301 12 34, fax +381 11
Rajićeva Shopping Center in Serbia. Situated in New Belgrade, just across Brankov better or worse depending on your taste. 311 22 34, www.belgrade.regency.hyatt.com.
Rajićeva Shopping Center offers pure shopping bliss Most from the Old Town.QBulevar Mihajla Pupina 4,
www.usceshoppingcenter.rs. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
in the heart of the city, with more than 80 new single
Over €150
Saint Ten Hotel
A high-end boutique hotel, we’ve got no qualms with there
philosophy of ‘Enter as a guest, feel like a saint, leave with
memories’.QE‑8, Svetog Save 10, tel. +381 11 411 66 33,
www.saintten.com.
Townhouse 27
A boutique hotel in the centre of town, Townhouse 27 is
one of the finest accommodation options in a city full of
the things. Rooms range from simple doubles all the way
to luxury suites, it manages to offer the full Belgrade cen-
tre experience along with simple tranquillity and peace,
a testament to those working here and the impressive
repose of the rooms themselves. With good reason, the
Townhouse 27 has been nominated with TripAdvisor Hall
of Fame accolade multiple times, and despite not be-
ing a five star chain, it is just as luxurious and indulgent
as a resort, but with more style, privacy and class.QC‑5,
Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. +381 11 202 29 00, www.
townhouse27.com.
Hilton Belgrade
The internationally famous chain has made its way to the
Serbian capital, bringing its usual brand of class, opulence
and style with it.QE‑8, Kralja Milana 35, tel. +381 11
For truly unique gifts (for other or for yourself) check out Boya Porcelain in Skadarlija 7555700, www.www3.hilton.com/.

Where To Stay Where To Stay
Metropol Palace Radisson Collection Old Mill Luca & Deluca
A local hotel held in high regard and rated accordingly. Their
spa facilities are frequently visited by locals, as well as their res- Passpartù Preserves the heritage of the 19th-century Old Mill, while
combining it with a modern industrial-chic aesthetic.QB‑9,
Luca & Deluca offer four luxury rooms equipped with every-
thing necessary to make your stay as comfortable as possible.
taurant.QF‑7, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 69, tel. +381 11 333 Bulevar Vojvode Mišić 15, tel. +381 11 6357 357, www. QD‑5, Terazije 13/5, tel. +381 64 000 5050.
3100, www.metropolpalace.com. radissoncollection.com/en/old-mill-hotel-belgrade.
Royal Inn Hostels

€100-150 The oldest hotel in Belgrade, Royal Inn was built in 1883 and Balkan Soul Hostel
Belgrade Art Hotel is located in one of the oldest streets in the city. QC‑3, Kralja Very close to the heart of the city, with many popular attrac-
Belgrade Art Hotel is located in the center of Belgrade and it Petra 56, tel. +381 11 400 26 21, www.royalinn.rs. tions and nightlife destinations nearby, yet very far from the
has the privilege of being the only hotel in the capital’s main noise, Balkan Soul Hostel is a great option for budget travel-
street, in the pedestrian zone of Knez Mihailova. Your stay at
Belgrade Art Hotel will give you the opportunity to explore Apartments lers. Modern wooden bunk beds, a communal kitchen and a
cosy living room area (dubbed the Soul room), where you can
the most attractive parts of the city by foot, and the absence Stan na Dan mingle and meet new people, all help the place receive high
of vehicles guarantees a peaceful night. As stated in the very Your perfect Belgrade experience begins with where you stay. marks from guests.QC‑5, Kosancicev venac 11a, tel. +381 60
name of the hotel, their concept revolves around art. The art Passpartù Hotel Their friendly and knowledgeable team can help you find 6600 685.
of design, the art of gratifying their guests, and just a touch Modern and sophisticated, Passpartù offers different your dream apartment in Belgrade. Each of their flat rentals
of modern art. All this is weaved into the fine details of your accommodation to meet guests needs, deluxe triple are picked to ensure it meets your high standards, including Sun Hostel
stay in the hotel. Recommended. QD‑4, Knez Mihailova and double rooms, a superior apartment with the views outstanding locations at your will. When you’ve booked, the If you want to experience Belgrade as a local, in the company
27, tel. +381 11 3312 000, fax +381 11 3312 099, www. of Dorćol centre from its balcony, perfect for luxury en- adventure begins! With a simple search through their site, of people who share enthusiasm for travel, spontaneous
belgradearthotel.com. thusiasts, and a two bedroom apartment, in case you’re you can find exactly what you need. Each of their apartments adventure.QG‑9, Novopazarska 25, tel. +381 11 2400 820,
travelling with friends or just want some privacy from have wifi, a/c, cable TV. Although their prices are significantly www.sun-hostel.com/.
Crowne Plaza Belgrade the kids. All rooms are modernly designed and comfort- lower than in hotels, their standards are dramatically higher.
The Crowne Plaza has been a New Belgrade mainstay for able, they offer everything necessary for a pleasant stay. Stan na dan removes the stress of travel, leaving you to en- Hostel Home Sweet Home
years, and is always a popular choice for business travellers. Breakfast is included in the price.QD‑4, Kneginje Ljubi- joy the perfect Belgrade stay!Qtel. +381 64 2929 111, www. Home Sweet Home Hostel is located in the very heart of
QVladimira Popovica 10, tel. +381 11 220 4004, www. ce 20, tel. +381 60 727 2295, www.passpartu-home. stannadan.com. the city in Balkanska Street near Terazije. There are vari-
crowneplaza.com. com. Open 08:00 - 00:00. PJWKCDwi ous sized rooms in this hostel, some with their own bath-
Envoy Wake Up Apartments rooms and some with the use of the shared bathroom.
The Envoy Hotel, whose rooms are decorated with prints of If you are looking for comfort at a reasonable price, Wake Up Cosy interior will make you feel just like at home. Free cof-
Momo Capor, is a piece of art itself.QD‑4, Čika-Ljubina 13, short walking distance.QE‑6, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. +381 11 offers just that with its spacious rooms and modern furni- fee and tea for the guests are available all the time. There
tel. +381 11 414 46 46, www.envoy-hotel.com. 440 2900. ture.QC‑5, Kraljevića Marka 7, tel. +381 63 325 345, www. is also a laundry room in hostel. QD‑6, Balkanska 29, tel.
hotelwakeup.rs/. +381 11 2688 251, www.homesweethome.rs/.
Falkensteiner Hotel Belgrade Belgrade Inn
Worth a stay for the unique building alone. The facilities are Locations don’t get any better than the Belgrade Inn, just steps
modern and the staff truly make you feel at home with their away from Trg Republike, Skadarlija and Dorćol.QD‑4, Fran-
hospitality.QBulevar Mihaila Pupina 10k, tel. +381 11 225 cuska 11, tel. +381 11 4000 660, www.belgradeinn.com.
0000, www.falkensteiner.com.
Constantine The Great
Life Design Constantine The Great is the first choice you should consider
Highly recommended design hotel situated in the very heart if your stay is work oriented.QF‑6, 27. Marta 12, tel. +381 11
of the city. This 4 star hotel is popular with both both busi- 4012 457, www.constantinethegreatbelgrade.com.
ness and tourists.QD‑6, Balkanska 18, tel. +381 11 3534 300,
www.lifedesignhotel.rs. Courtyard by Marriott Belgrade City
Center
€50-100 Great location near the National Theatre and National Muse-
um just off Trg Republike - Marriott standards at very reason-
88 Rooms able prices.QD‑4, Vase Čarapića 2-4, tel. +381 11 400 3000,
This chic hotel is located charmingly close to the Botanical www.marriott.com.
gardens providing peace and quiet to your stay, yet still it is
walking distance to any sights you might be interested in see- Jump Inn
ing. Each of their 88 rooms are designed according to Feng Located in an historic building in the hip Savamala arts dis-
Shui, so your relaxation and rest are in good hands. Their at- trict, book a deluxe room to get views of the Sava River.
tention to detail is astounding yet subtle, making sure your en- QC‑6, Koče Popovića 2a, tel. +381 11 404 9650, www.
ergy is refreshed for the duration of your stay.QG‑5, Takovska jumpinnhotelbelgrade.com.
49, tel. +381 11 411 9080, www.88rooms.com.
Mark Hotel
Mercure Belgrade Excelsior Hotel Mark welcomed its first guests at the beginning of March
Mercure Belgrade Excelsior is surrounded by luscious parks, 2018, and it was conceived as an oasis of peace.QE‑7, Resavska
with every main attraction you might want to see within a 29, tel. +381 11 334 5400, www.markhotelbelgrade.com/.

Vrnjačka Banja Kopaonik
Kopaonik is both the largest and second highest mountain
in Serbia, covering some 82 kilometres and and reaching
a height of 2017 metres at Pančić‘s Peak of 2017. The cli- Hotels
mate here is extraordinary, even though the temperatures Grand Hotel & Spa
drop during the winter, there is a lot of sun nevertheless, Grand Hotel and Spa is located next to the ski lift, with a
with around 200 sunny days throughout the year, it is no great view of the ski slopes and the nature surrounding
wonder some call it ‘The Mountain of Sun‘. On the other them. The popular hotel incudes 170 minimalistic, mod-
side it snows from November until May, 159 days a year on ernly decorated rooms and apartments that are mostly
average. Sometimes you can even see people sunbathing in wood and warm soft tones as is the rest of the hotel.
with bikinis and all, while others are skiing. It truly is a win- A luxurious spa is available for guests, featuring saunas,
ter wonderland. Several spa resorts are a part of Kopaonik, massages beauty saloon, pools, Jacuzzi and other ameni-
making it great even for people who seek relaxation and ties. Qtel. +381 11 655 7585.
rest as a cure. Kopaonik is filled with mineral resources, and
due to its rich mines, through history, has also been called Mujen Lux
‘Silver Mountain‘. Built in authentic mountain style and modernly equipped,
Mujen Lux apartments provide ample comfort, and the
Pančić’s Peak spa and other facilities all but guarantee complete relax-

Pančić’s Peak is the highest summit in the Kopaon- ation during both winter and summer. One of the best
ik Mountain Range, and also the second highest point in things about this place is that it provides services for both
Serbia at 2017 metres above sea level. It was was previous- active and passive vacation, or a combination of the two.
ly named Milan’s Peak after a Serbian king, but its name Since the apartments are few kilometres away from the
was changed in 1951 in honour of Josif Pančić, a botanist ski resort, free transport to the slopes is available upon
who was buried in a little mausoleum on the very top. It’s request.QVikend Naselje bb, tel. +381 36 427 327/+381
Vrnjačka Banja is the perfect destination for a relaxing weekend away also part of the Kopaonik National Park. 64 869 78 15, www.mujenlux.com. WKC
Vrnjačka Banja is one of the most popular spa destinations in

Serbia thanks to its thermal waters with healing powers for
many diseases, which have been used for their curative proper- Sightseeing
ties ever since the days of the Roman Empire. The waters range Belimarković Castle
from cold to body temperature warm, and are all located in Belimarković Castle is the oldest building in Vrnjačka
the park in the centre of town, open to the public. Prince Miloš Banja. The castle was originally a summer house of
Obrenović was the one who transformed Vrnjačka Banja into general and statesman Jovan Belimarković, who first
a tourist destination at the beginning of the 19th century, and made a name for himself during the Ottoman wars of
ever since those times it has received a great number of tourists the mid-19th century. The construction lasted from
seeking treatment and relaxation. 1888 to 1894, and the castle was built in the North-
The small town in Raška District, in Central Serbia has only Italian style which was popular at the time. Nowadays
some 10,000 inhabitants, which makes it the perfect place the magnificent manor has been transformed into a
for a relaxing weekend getaway form the noise of a big city. local museum with three permanent exhbitions in the
The climate of the area is especially favourable, with mild collection presenting the rich and fascinating history
winters as well as summers. An interesting thing is that it of Vrnjačka Banja.Qtel. +381 36 612 144. Open 07:00 -
holds the Guinness World Record for the largest Opanak, a 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
type of Serbian peasant shoe, made by a local shoemaker
in 2006. Not far from Vrnjačka Banja there are several cul- Bridge of Love
tural monuments from mediaeval times, which are under The Bridge of Love looks charming enough, but it actu-
the protection of UNESCO. Some of the most important ally conceals a story that is quite tragic. There was a
buildings near Vrnjačka Banja are Žiča, Sopoćani and Stu- girl called Nada who fell in love with a young officer
denica Monasteries, known for their long, rich history. named Relja, and they used to meet on the bridge.
But a war separated the young lovers, and Relja was
Churches sent to Greece. In this case the distance did not make
the heart grow fonder, at least not for Relja, who af-
The Temple of the Nativity of the ter some time fell in love with a Greek girl, and forgot
Blessed Virgin Mary about Nada waiting for him back in Vrnjačka Banja.
In 1834, Hadži Jeftimije Popović, archpriest of Vrnjačka Betrayed and devastated, Nada fell into melancholy
Banja, built The Temple of the Nativity of the Blessed Vir- and soon died of a broken heart. Girls stricken by the
gin Mary, and he continued to serve there for 47 years. sadness of this story and the fear of losing their loved
The nativity is celebrated on 21 September, to which an ones decided to write their and their significant other’s
amazing mosaic above the entrance testifies. The church names on a padlock, which is then tied to the bridge
was expanded in both 1936 and 1973. and they key thrown the key into the river. Head south to Kopaonik for some of the finest skiing in the region

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.
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Sightseeing Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Wine Hotels Map

Where are you E S S E N TI A L

Culture & Events 11

Belgrade: Like home

25 but also openly accepts specialties from all meridians

years guests, who in Belgrade, at an incredible speed, like

www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 5

8 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 9

12 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 13

Art Galleries Theatres

Beograd GalleryQC‑5, Kosančićev venac 19, tel. Bitef Theatre

Cvijeta Zuzorić Art PavilionQB‑3, Kalemeg- JDP - Yugoslav Drama Theatre

New Moment GalleryQF‑5, Hilandarska 14, Madlenianum Opera and Theatre

14 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 15

16 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 17

18 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 19

22 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 23

Classic Cafés tor Coffee Explorer. The name conjures up images of

26 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 27

28 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 29

30 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 31

32 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 33

36 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 37

40 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 41

44 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 45

Royal Inn Hostels

46 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 47

Vrnjačka Banja is one of the most popular spa destinations in

48 Belgrade In Your Pocket belgrade.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/BelgradeInYourPocket Winter/Spring 2019 49

Mar ilic vic

Manjez Park Museum

Temple VRACAR Macvanska

starijeg Cubura Park

ICA Radisson Blu a Varnave

JVO tic a Cernisevskog

an I BOU Brace Radovanovic

TAKE YOUR GUIDE

serbia.inyourpocket.com | belgrade@inyourpocket.com | tel. (+381) 61 28 25 727

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