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End Table: Rockler

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Carlos
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
96 views

End Table: Rockler

Uploaded by

Carlos
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 6

BUILD

Stock Item
34802 Beadlock Basic Starter Kit
20796 Beadlock Tenon Stock, 12" lengths
21597 Taper / Straight Line Jig
34215 Table Top Fasteners
91815 3/16"-radius Edge Beading
Router Bit

Painted Table:
Yellow Poplar Lumber
3/4" x 3" x 50"
3/4" x 6" x 54"
11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 50"
58884 General Finishes Chalk Paint
Key West Blue
53869 General Finishes Flat Out Flat
Topcoat

Cherry Table:
Cherry lumber
3/4" x 3" x 50"
3/4" x 51 ⁄ 2" x 11-ft.
11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 50"
36795 Watco Danish Oil Finish Natural
53869 General Finishes Flat Out Flat
Topcoat

All items subject to changes in availability.

CUSTOMIZE
• Select a hardwood lumber species
• Select a General Finishes chalk paint color
Plan Value $9.99 • Select a Watco Danish Oil color

BUILD IT WITH
ROCKLER END TABLE www.rockler.com
800-279-4441
© 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.
3
/16" Radius bead

1"

EXPLODED VIEW Top


(Side View)
2" 1
/4"

1 1
Leg
(Inside View)
11/2" MATERIAL LIST
Cabinet TxWxL
11/2"
1 Top (1) 3/4" x 18"x 18"
31/2"
2 Aprons (4) 3/4" x 3" x 12"
3
/4" 3 Legs (4) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 221 ⁄ 4"
4 Table Top Fasteners (4) Steel
2
Apron 2
3 (End and Inside Views)
7
/16" 2" 4
1 /2"
1 5
/16" 1
/2"
2
2 2 4
3
/8"
3 115/16"
5
/8" 2
3
3
/16" Radius bead

3
Tabletop
(Top View)

3
18"
Grain

1 251/2"
11/2"

11/2"
31/2"
25 /2" 1
3
/4"

1"

3 © 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.


Make the Table Top
1. GLUE UP THE TABLE TOP 2. LAY OUT THE TABLE TOP

1. Glue up the pieces that you’ve chosen for the top. If you’re using a stain or clear
topcoat that will leave the wood grain exposed, you can add a bit of visual interest by 2. Use a steel square to draw the layout
running the grain diagonally across the top. Aligning the boards diagonally also results for the diamond-shape across the grain.
in a uniform end grain pattern on all four edges. Glue up the top boards to create a Then clamp a straightedge to the tabletop,
square that is at least 251 ⁄ 2" x 251 ⁄ 2". If you plan to paint your table, then glue the top and cut out the shape with a circular saw.
boards to create a 18" x 18" square top.

© 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.


Make the Apron and Legs
3. BEVEL CUT THE TABLE TOP RABBETS 4. CUT TABLE TOP FASTENER GROOVES IN APRONS

3. Use the table saw to cut bevels on the top edges oof the
tabletop. Tilt the table saw blade to 20˚. Then position the 4. Next cut a groove in the apron stock for the table top fas-
fence 1/4" away from the base of the blade. Use a tall aux- teners. The table top fasteners require a 3/32" wide groove to
iliary fence to prevent the work piece from tilting during the fit into. Use a full-sized saw blade, not a thin kerf, to cut this
cut. Before cutting your tabletop edges, clamp a test piece to groove. It’s easiest to cut this groove and to rout the bead in
the auxiliary fence and cut a test piece so you can fine-tune the apron and leg stock before cutting each part to length.
your settings. When you are satisfied with the results, cut the
bevels on all four edges of the tabletop.

© 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.


5. CUT BEADS IN APRONS AND LEGS 6. TAPER THE LEGS

Leg

5. Use a 3/16"-radius edge beading bit to cut the bead


along the bottom edge of the aprons. If you are using a
handheld router, use another board alongside the aprons
to give you more surface area to balance the router. Use
the same router setup to cut the bead on the outside
corner of each leg, make passes on both outside faces of
each leg to get a fully rounded bead.
Cut the aprons and legs to final length after routing
the bead profiles.
6. The two inside faces of each leg are tapered. The taper
starts 31⁄2" down from the top of the leg. This leaves a flat
surface that is perpendicular to the top where the legs and
the aprons will be joined with a loose tenon. Use the Rockler
Taper / Straight Line jig and a table saw to safely and accu-
rately make the taper cuts. Use a scrap piece of wood that
matches your leg stock to set up the jig and make test cuts.
Taper cut the two inside faces of each leg.

© 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.


7. BEADLOCK JOINERY 8. ATTACH THE TABLETOP TO THE BASE

8. Sand and finish the tabletop and base. Apply a coat of


Watco finish, allowing it to cure for forty eight hours. Then
apply three coats of Flat Out Flat water based poly. Finish
both faces of the tabletop to prevent warping.
Center the table base on the upside-down tabletop. It
is important to consider wood movement when attaching
a tabletop because solid wood expands and contracts with
changes in temperature and humidity. It is most common to
Shims attach a tabletop with the grain running parallel and perpen-
dicular to the aprons. In those cases, the tabletop fasteners
should only be installed in the aprons that run perpendicular
with the grain, allowing the fasteners to slide in the groove
as the top expands and contracts side to side across the
grain.
In this design, the tabletop grain runs diagonal to the
aprons. None of the aprons are perpendicular to the grain.
7. Use the Beadlock Joinery Kit to join the aprons to the legs. Position an apron against a leg with the tops of the Install the fasteners in aprons on opposite sides of the table.
leg and apron flush. Draw alignment lines 11 ⁄ 2" down from the top of each leg and apron. First, bore the moritse Do not force the fastener to the back of the apron groove.
in the apron. Set the jig to the A position and clamp it on the apron. Align the straight edge of the half-moon Leave a gap between the end of the fastener and the back
shape on the jig with your pencil line and drill the first set of holes 5/8" deep into the end of the apron. With- of the apron groove to allow the top space to expand and
out unclamping, adjust the jig to the B position. Drill your second set of holes. Next, make the mortises in the contract.
legs. Use shims to create a 3/8"-thick offset between the leg and the jig. This will position the mortise close Drill pilot holes for the screws that will attach the tabletop
to the leg’s center. Bore the mortise using the same A and B jig settings. Cut 11 ⁄ 8" long Beadlock tenons. Apply fasteners. Use a piece of tape on your drill bit to mark how
glue inside each mortise, insert a tenon, and clamp the legs and aprons. deep to drill. Secure fasteners with 5/8” screws.

© 2017 Rockler Companies Inc.

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