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Stripes & Crosses

Top

©2014 Hooked by Anna. For personal use only, you may not sell or distribute this pattern. All rights reserved.

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General Notes
This pattern uses American crochet terminology.

A breeze to make, this summery cover-up consists of basic crochet stitches and only a
couple of slightly less common techniques: foundation double crochet and reverse
single crochet, also known as crab stitch. There are numerous great tutorials of both
on YouTube, which is why I have not included descriptions here.

The top is made up of two identical rectangular pieces, front and back, each crocheted
in rows back and forth. The size (see below) determines the width of each piece and
hence the circumference of the finished top. You decide the length; cropped or
perhaps tunic?

The identical front and back pieces are attached by crocheting together the top
corners (shoulders) and then by sewing together the sides from the arm holes down to
the waist.

Help!?
For any questions regarding this pattern, please feel free to contact me:
crochet@hookedbyanna.com

Abbreviations
fdc foundation double crochet
dc double crochet
ch chain
sc single crochet
sk skip
rev.sc reverse single crochet (A.K.A. Crab Stitch)
beg beginning
st stitch
slst slip stitch
ea each
yo yarn over
ch-sp chain space

©Hooked by Anna Stripes & Crosses Top 2

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Materials
600-1000m ( 650-1100 yards) sport weight cotton yarn, depending on size.

I used 5 skeins (700 m) of Marks & Kattens FLOX, colour 2023 for a size S, 8 pattern
repeats long (8 rows of crosses).

3 mm hook (or hook required to meet gauge).

Darning needle for sewing together the sides and weaving ends.

Sizing & Gauge

Gauge: 10 cm (4 ins) = 18 stitches in dc.

The height of your stitches doesn’t matter, as you decide yourself how long you want to
make your top/ how many rows to work. When deciding on the length/number of
pattern repeats, consider (a) that you will add chains (crosses) when joining the
shoulders and (b) that the garment may stretch a little length wise with blocking,
perhaps 1-2 inches.

Width wise, the finished top does have a couple of inches of stretch. However, it will
look more flattering with some drape to it. Pick the size that closest matches your
chest circumference. If you are unsure or in-between two sizes, go for the larger size.
If you make the top too fitted it will bunch up.

Size No. of FDC Top Circumference (match to your chest circumference)

XS: 67 74 cm / 29 in
S: 73 80 cm / 31.5 in
M: 79 88 cm / 34.5 in
L: 85 94 cm / 37 in
XL: 91 100 cm / 39.4 in

If you want a smaller or larger size than the ones listed above – no problem! Just work
any number of foundation double crochets that is divisible by both 3 and 2, plus one
more fdc. (E.g. the XS size, is 66+1, where 66 is divisible by both 2 and 3.)

©Hooked by Anna Stripes & Crosses Top 3

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Front and Back

Two identical rectangular pieces. One pattern repeat is 5 rows (rows 2-6). You decide the
number of pattern repeats (i.e. the length of the top).

Foundation: Work the number of fdc according to your size (see ‘Sizing & Gauge’).
(Row 1) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 4, sk 1 st, dc in nxt st, *ch 1, sk nxt st, dc in nxt st*. Repeat from * to *
(dc mesh) to end. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in 1st ch-sp, dc in 1st dc, *dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt dc*. Repeat
(dcs) from * to * to end. (The final dc of the row is worked into the 3rd ch of the
beginning ch-4.) Turn.

Row 4: Ch 20, sk nxt 5 sts, sc in nxt st, fold the loop you just made to the back of
(loops) the work to avoid it getting tangled up, 3 rev.sc (thus going backwards 3
sts), ch 20, sc in the 3rd st from where you attached the last loop, *fold
loop to back of work, 3 rev.sc (taking you back to the st where you
attached prev. loop), ch 20, sc in the 3rd st from where you attached the
last loop*, repeat from * to * across. (The final sc of the row is worked
into top of beginning ch-3.) Turn.

To attach the loop, sc in the 3rd st from where The 3 rev.sc will take you back to the same st
you attached the prev. loop (= the 6th st from where you attached the previous loop. Now
where you started the current loop). Then ch 20 to make the next loop.
rev.sc in ea of the 3 sts marked with arrows.

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Row 5: Ch13, sc into top of first loop, *ch 2, sc into top of nxt loop*, repeat from *
(join loops) to * across, ch 12, slst into first ch of first loop (=first st of row 4). Slst 9
times back upwards along the ch-12 you just made (leaving 3 chs
unworked). Turn.

Row 6: Ch3, *2 dc into 1st ch-sp, dc into nxt sc*, repeat from * to * to last ch-sp,
(dcs) 3 dc into last ch-sp. Turn.

Repeat rows 2 to 6 until piece is required length, finish with a row 3.

Joining Shoulders & Sides

Crochet together the front and back pieces at the shoulders. Then join the sides from
armholes down with standard whip stitch.

Put the two rectangular pieces down in

front of you, as illustrated on p. 6, short

B  
sides together. It doesn’t matter which
piece is front or back; we’ll call them A
and B, where A is the piece nearest to you.
You will join the yarn to the top right
corner of piece A, working into the
opposite corner of piece B (marked red in
illustration on p. 6).

Once you have worked one shoulder, turn

your work 180 degrees in order to start
joining the second shoulder. So what was
piece A when you joined the first shoulder
now becomes piece B. See illustration on A  
p. 6.

Join yarn at top right corner of piece A. Ch10, sc in opposite corner of piece B, ch10, sk
2 sts in piece A & sc in nxt dc, ch10, sk 5 sts in piece B & sc in nxt dc, 3 rev.sc, ch10, sk
2 sts in piece A & sc in nxt dc, *ch10, sk 2 sts in piece B & sc in nxt dc, 3 rev.sc, ch 10,
sk 2 sts in piece A & sc in nxt dc*, repeat * to* once more, ch10, sc in nxt st in piece B.
Fasten off.

Try the top on to work out what size to make the armholes. Use a stitch marker or
safety pin to mark where to start stitching the sides together. Whip stitch together the
sides from armholes down. Make sure to line up the sides stitch by stitch. If you like,
you can leave the last few inches unworked at the bottom, for side slits.

©Hooked by Anna Stripes & Crosses Top 5

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Blocking - just do it!

Your work will look much better after blocking. Here’s how.

Blocking will make a huge difference to this top, relaxing the stitches to really show off
the pattern in the fabric. Soak or carefully hand wash your finished garment, wring out
excess water and lay it down on a towel to dry, stretching/arranging it into required
shape. I personally don’t find pinning is necessary.

Hope you like your top!

A
B

B
A

1. Join 1st 2. Turn 180° 3. Join 2nd 4. Sew sides

shoulder (red) shoulder (green)

©Hooked by Anna Stripes & Crosses Top 6

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