Contemporary Bead & Wire Jewelry

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Nathalie Mornu & Suzanne J.E. Tourtillott

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Editors
Nathalie Mornu
Tourtillott, Suzanne J. E.
Suzanne J. E. Tourtillott Contemporary bead & wire jewelry / Suzanne J.E. Tourtillott and co-author
Nathalie Mornu.- 1st ed.
Art Director p. cm.
Stacey Budge Includes index.

ISBN 1-57990-700-8 (he)
I.Beadwork. 2. Jewelry making. I. Mornu, Nathalie. 11.Title. 111.
Photographer Title: Contemporary bead and wire jewelry. .
Stewart O’Shields n860.T78 2006
745.594'2-dc22
Cover Designer 2005016774
First Edition
Barbara Zaretsky
Published by Lark Books, A Division of
Associate Art Director Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
Shannon Yokeley 387 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016
© 2006, Lark Books

Assistant Art Director
Bradley Norris Distributed in Canada by Sterling Publishing,
c/o Canadian Manda Group, 165 Dufferin Street
Art Interns Toronto, Ontario, Canada M6K 3H6
Nate Schulman
Distributed in the UK by Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd., Castle Place, 166 High Street, Lewes,
Emily Kepley
East Sussex, England BN7 1XU
Tel: (+ 44) 1273 477374, fax: (+ 44) 1273 478606, e-mail: pubs@thegmcgroup.com,
Editorial Assistance Web: www.gmcpublications.com
Delores Gosnell
Distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link (Australia) Pty Ltd., PO Box 704, Windsor, NSW 2756 Australia
Editorial Interns
The written instructions, photographs, designs, patterns, and projects in this volume are intended for the
Kelly J. Johnson
personal use of the reader and may be reproduced for that purpose only. Any other use, especially
Metta L. Pry commercial use, is forbidden under law without written permission of the copyright holder.
David Squires
Every effort has been made fo ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to
Illustrator differing conditions, tools, and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses,
and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.
Orrin Lundgren
If you have questions or comments about this book, please contact:
Lark Books
67 Broadway
Asheville, NC 28801
(828) 253-0467
Manufactured in China
All rights reserved
ISBN 13:978-1-57990-700-6
ISBN: 1-57990-700-8
For information about custom editions, special sales, premium and corporate purchases, please contact
Sterling Special Sales Department at 800-805-5489 or specialsales@sterlingpub.com.
Beaded Channel Ring,

page 93
Contents
Introduction 7
Bead and Wire Basics 8
The Projects
Temple Earrings 24 Beaded Dragonfly Broooh 78
Spring Blossom Ring 26 Follies Chandeliers 81 ■
Whisper Drops 28 icy Drops Neoklace and Earrings 83
Silver Flow Brooch 30 Stargazer Armband 86
Caught-in-Honey Pendant 32 Festive Spiral Earrings 88
Wandering Gypsy Bracelet 35 Leaping Copper Collar 90

k Cauglit-in-Honey
Ruby Wave Bracelet 37 Beaded Channel Ring 93 Pendant, page 32
Coppery Pink Flower Pin 39 Chui Necklace 95
Sante Fe Cuff 41 River Dance Bracelet 98
Sassy Pin 43 Lantern Earrings 100
Mardi Gras Bracelet 46 Cleopatra’s Collar 102
Pearly Spirally Post Earrings 48 Bollywood Dreams 104
Hypnosis Ring 50 Confetti Hoops 106
Amber Arc Bracelet 52 Venetian Reverie Neoklaoe 108
Vortex Neoklace 54 Flame Pendant 110
Celtic Crystal Bracelet 57 Pearl-Set Ring 113
Lucky Necklace 59 Fiesta Necklaoe and Earrings 115
Love Knot Chandeliers 61 Opulence Necklace 118
Odyssey Necklace 64 Jellyroll Bracelet 120
Anemone Choker 66 Key to Wire Gauges 123
Turquoise Twists Necklace About the Designers 124

and Earrings 68
Acknowledgments 126
Quatrefoil Earrings 71
Index 127
Arabesque Necklace and Earrings 73
Rajah Bangle 76
Anemone Choker,
page 66
JEWELRY
Introduction
WIRE
The world has always had a love affair with beads. And who wouldn’t fall for them?
&
We’re entranced by the abundance of color choices, their sparkle, and the way they
BEAD
feel as they trickle through your fingers.
A bead’s “personality” is defined by its shape, material, translucency, and surface

decoration. And for every kind of bead, whether faceted crystal, polymer clay, lustrous
CONTEMPORARY
ceramic, or dainty seed, there’s a header somewhere who covets it. Vintage beads are
prized by certain crafters; chunky, oversized beads made from resin or plastic are
particularly of-the-moment. In a word, beads are fascinating.
Wire is the backbone of the jewelry shown in this book, and the projects demonstrate
how truly versatile and beautiful it can be. The subtle gleam of metal, whether cool silver,
glowing gold, or one of dozens of funky colored wires, gives every piece a polished look.
Just as there are beads and wires for every look and taste, the talented designers who
share their designs in this book use a wildly wonderful range of styles, materials, and
techniques. In fact, this collection represents some of the very best in bead and wire
jewelry being made today. The necklaces, earrings, rings, and bracelets are so inventive
and appealing that, seen together, we feel they elevate this type of jewelry to a new and
exciting level. Now, more than ever, bead and wire is a jewelry technique worth exploring.
There are contemporary jewelry designs for every skill level. The remarkable Anemone
Choker by Elizabeth Larsen practically reinvents bead and wire’s traditional look.
It might appear to be challenging to make, yet you may already be familiar with its main
technique. Diane Gueizow’s Wandering Gypsy Bracelet is eclectic, but its versatile style
ensures a uniquely personal result every time. More experienced artists will find some
intriguing wire techniques among the offerings. The delicate filigreed appearance of
Rachel Dow’s Temple Earrings gives new dimensionality to the extra-long style that’s
so popular right now.
Finally, the basics section has all the details about the supplies, tools, and tried-and-true
techniques you’ll need to make the projects in this book and create still more in your
own designs. You can start with a few specialized tools and add what you need as you
gain in aptitude and inspiration. Even the practice will be fun. So go ahead. Indulge your
love for beads right now!
—Nathalie Mornu and Suzanne J. E. Tourtillott
Follies Chandeliers, page 81

Bead and Wire
BASICS
FOR AN ARTIST, it’s no Stretch to Beads
conceive of wire as a linear element,
If you’ve never worked In this medium
and beads as dots or points. The beauty
before, you’re in for some pleasant hours
of the projects in this book is that each
of bead browsing—the hardest part is
transforms these simple building blocks
stopping! You’ll find a fabulous range
into chic pieces to wear as ornament.
of beads in glass, semiprecious stone,
This chapter contains all the information ceramic, and polymer clay; you can buy
you need to enter a world of creative lampworked one-of-a-kinds, silver- and
expression making bead and wire jewelry. rhinestone-studded spheres, and cloudy
moonstone orbs. Sift through bins of
carved wooden beads; pick up some
Materials bits of dichroic or tumbled glass. Build a
and Supplies collection and store it in stacks of headers’
boxes with little compartments.
Shopping for the materials to create the
projects in this book is a little like taking Most beads are organized in the stores by
a trip around the globe: you’ll find African their material, shape, and diameter. (Tiny
trade beads, lampworked glass crafted in seed beads are sized using a special
India, cloisonne treasures made in China, scale, in which the smallest ones have
shimmering Austrian crystal, and wire the highest numbers.) Be prepared to
from, well, all over. verify that your wire fits through your
E W E L. R Y
You can keep your beads organized by storing
them in smail boxes with dear iids.
WIRE
&
BEAD
BEADWISE
CONTEMPORARY
Wondering where to start when you look for beads? You could
fill an entire dictionary with the evocative names of just the bead
shapes that are available: rondelle, briolette, facet, montee,
baroque drop, teardrop. What a whirlwind of choices!
Then there are the names that indicate a bead’s function. A focal
bead is one that stands out from all the rest, either due to its
size or some other exceptional feature. Some have a strong,
beads’ holes; some very large beads can graphic quality; others use a carved or figurative motif. Spacers
have surprisingly small holes, and vice are generally smaller, plainer elements that are used to set off
versa. Unfortunately, there’s no standard more exciting beads, but they too can be pretty interesting.
relationship between the size of a bead’s Intricate little Bali beads typically come from the Indonesian island
hole and its diameter. and are made from semioxidized silver; plainer-style heishi beads,
originally made from seashells, are now available in stone and
If you can’t find beads to replicate the
metals. Tube and bugle beads are long, slender cylinders,
projects in this book, by all means
sometimes made of twisted metal. Finally, metal bead caps
purchase different styles; bear in mind
(and cones), placed at the ends of a round bead, can set it off
that in doing so, you may achieve a
and make it delightfully different.
completely different look, and you’ll
need to make certain that your selections
match the bead sizes specified in
the instructions.
O O
Focai beads Clockwise from top left: Bead caps

spacers, tubes, Balls, twisted
bugles, and heishi beads
Traditionally, wire made from sterling silver about wire gauges and their U.S. and softer than others. However, wire stiffens
or gold has been a popular choice for bead U.K. specifications. a bit as you work with it, adding more
and wire jewelry, but many other wire support to your work. This process is
The projects in this book suggest that you
products may be used too. Metal craft wire called work hardening; if wire gets handled
use a specific size of wire, generally from
is now avaiiable in a wide variety of colors; too much, it becomes brittle and breaks.
14 to 26 gauge. Using gauges other than
relative newcomers include anodized and
those specified in the instructions is fine, Silver and gold wires are made and sold in
dyed metals such as aluminum, or niobium,
but keep in mind that very thin wire, different hardnesses: dead soft, soft, and
which you can use alone or combined
though easier to shape, isn’t strong half hard. In most cases, our designers
in the same piece of jewelry. Still other
enough for a lot of heavy beads, and very have recommended the appropriate silver
kinds of wire include brass, nickel, copper,
thick wire isn’t suitable for small-scale or gold wire hardness for their projects;
and even platinum. Unlike these more
designs—not to mention the limitation when in doubt, use half-hard wire. Avoid
malleable metals, super-springy memory
of the size of a bead’s hole. Wires of the dead-soft wire; it’s difficult to work with
wire, made from base metal or sometimes
same gauge will all feel a bit different to and won’t retain shaping or angles.
stainless steel, can be stretched and
manipulate, because some metals are
permanently bent, but it will always retain Many of the projects use sterling silver
its initial coiled silhouette. wire, but wire made from an alloy (a blend
of less expensive metals) is an acceptable
Whatever the metal, most wire comes in a
substitute, especially for jewelry for
large range of sizes and shapes, or
everyday wear or for working an unfamiliar
profiles. Gauge is a scale
design or technique. It’s a great idea to
of measurement that
use practice wire (of a similar gauge
indicates a wire’s
and hardness) if you plan to make a
diameter: the higher
piece of jewelry from very expensive
the numeral, the finer the
wire. Any inexpensive alloy wire
wire. (Memory wire is the
will do.
exception; it’s sold in sizes
to fit the neck, wrist, or Depending on the metal, wire is
finger.) Page 122 lists sold many different ways: on
some helpful information spools, in prepackaged coils, by
Colored wire comes in a

range of hues and gauges.
4 E W E L B V
&
BEAO
Various gauges and types of wire
(from left): gold wire, memory wire,
and silver wire
A. H T
C O N T E fifi 1= O
weight, and by length. Look for various
types in jewelry supply shops, craft
retailers, and in certain areas of hardware
stores (including the electrical supply and
framing departments). The Internet is also
a vast resource for wire of every kind.
In addition to the plain round variety,

wire is made with different cross-section
profiles, such as square, half round, and
triangular. Some wire companies sell
lengths of pretwisted single-strand wire,
or you can make your own with the pin
vise tooi, as explained later on. Twisted
wire is also created when two lengths of
nonround wire are twisted together for a
beaded or rippled effect. Although most
of the projects in this book are made with
the common round variety, a few, such
as the Beaded Channel Ring on page 93,
use these novelty shapes, which create
a completely different look. It’s possible to
alternate links of round, flat, and twisted
wire with stunning results.
Festive Spiral Earrings, page 88

JEWELRY
Clasps, Pins, and Such

Findings are prefabricated, basic jewelry It’s easy to trim off excess wire, but there’s
pieces; they are made from many of the nothing to be done when there’s not
same kinds of metals that are available In enough. Just like wire, head pins and eye
unformed wire, and there are popular silver pins are available in different gauges. Be
WIRE
and gold options too. Necklaces may not sure they’ll fit through the beads’ holes.
need them, but bracelets almost always
You can use commercial clasps or closures
require clasps. To make an earring design
&
on any of the projects In this book, but

wearable, use ear wires or posts; brooches
in some cases our designers give you
BEAD
sometimes need pin backings. Beads are

instructions on how to fashion them
often linked with head pins or eye pins. The
yourself, such as in the Sassy Pin on
head pin is simply a short, straight piece of
page 43. Making your own closures gives
CONTEMPORARY
wire with one flattened end to stop the

a piece of jewelry a more integrated look.
bead, whereas an eye pin has an open loop
Findings often become important elements
at one end of the wire section. For either
to the overall design, so you’ll want to
type, you form another loop at the other
take care that even purchased ones are
end after a bead has been strung onto it.
made of materials of a quality and style
Choose extra-iong pins if you plan to add
that complement it.
more than one bead.
Lantern Earrings,
page 100
Left column: ear wires; center column (from top): pin backings, toggles, clasps; right column
(from top): ball-end pins, eye pins, head pins
JEWELRY
Jump rings are another popular finding.
These simple rings, usually made from
plain silver or gold, or from base metal,
are great for connecting links. They can
WIRE
be found in a variety of sizes (by diameter
and by wire gauge), or you can make
your own (see the Handmade Jump Rings
&
sidebar on page 19).
BEAD
For the bead-and-wire jeweler, a commer¬
cially made chain can be a foundation to
which beads are attached with head pins,
CONTEMPORARY
or else with jump rings. You can buy
various styles of chain—from very delicate
to quite chunky—prepackaged. Some
beading shops stock commercial chain
on large spools and will cut it to the
length you specify. In any case, for certain
projects you might need to be able to
open the chain’s links. If the links have
been soldered closed, you’ll have to
use jump rings or bead loops to attach
anything to them.
Machine-made chain and

jump rings are sometimes
used as important design
elements in their own right
The Basic Tool Kit
In your tool kit you should have certain Needle Files
items that are indispensable for creating
Use a metal file with a fine tooth to
the jewelry in this book; wire cutters,
smooth out the rough edges of cut wire
needle files, pliers, crosslocking tweezers,
ends and any other marring that may
protective eyewear, a pin vise or clamp,
occur during the forming stages. Unfiled
a permanent marker, and a ruler with
ends scratch and catch on fabric, so resist
both U.S. and metric measurements.
the temptation to ignore this crucial step.
Jewelry wipes, which are soft papers
(And remember, too, that good wire cut¬
impregnated with polish, keep your work
ters help ensure that you won’t have to do
bright and clean. Each project’s instructions
a lot of filing.) Follow these rules: softer
presume that you have this basic tool kit,
wire need be filed only with the finest
so only specialized tools needed to make
of your files; start with a slightly coarser
a project are listed.
file for harder wire.
Wire Cutters
Pliers
A good pair of wire cutters is essential
Pliers are a bead and wire jewelry maker’s
for making all of the jewelry in this book.
best friend. Round-nose, chain-nose, and
There are several different styles, but
flat-nose pliers are the most-used types,
whichever ones you use, make sure they
although other, more specialized pliers
cut absolutely flush, since the shape of
can be found. To prevent damage to your
the cut’s end, or burr, will need to be filed.
wire as you work, select a type with
The smaller the burr, the less filing will
smooth jaws rather than serrated ones.
be needed. Since you will often need to
Inexpensive pliers are fine for beginners.
cut wire in very small spaces, bigger is
If wire jewelry ever becomes your life’s
definitely not better. Pointed tips give you
passion, you can easily trade up to a
the most control.
better brand.
Round-nose pliers are essential for making

loops (described on pages 20-21).
Because the jaws are wide at the base
and tapered at the tip, you can vary the
size of your loops depending on where
along the jaw you place the wire to start.
The basic tool kit contains (from top): wire

cutters, a set of needle files, a permanent
marker, crosslocking tweezers, protective
eyewear, jewelry wipes, and a ruler.
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
This fancy pin vise uses interchangeable tips,
BEAD
to hold wires of different sizes.
CONTEMPORARY
Chain-nose pliers get this name because Pin Vise
they’re ideal for opening and closing chain
This simple tool allows you to create
links. They’re also useful for opening and
lengths of twisted wire in just minutes
closing loops and jump rings, working in
You can work with a pair of pin vises,
tight spots, and, if you don’t have special
or use just one pin vise and some sort
crimping pliers (read more about them in
of clamp (or use pliers instead, if you
the Additional Tools section, on page 16),
have only a short quantity of wire to
for crimping the ends of wire wraps.
twist). See page 21 for an explanation
Chain-nose pliers are sometimes confused
of the technique.
with needle-nose pliers, the electrician’s
tool that has serrated teeth in its jaws
(though these can be used to add texture
to wire). Flat-nose pliers resemble chain-
nose pliers, but their jaws, instead of
tapering, remain wide all the way to the
tips. They’re perfect for making sharp
bends and for holding wire. Here’s a tip:
when working with colored wire, always
wrap your pliers’ tips with plastic tape to
prevent marring the colored finish. For
extra-gentle wire handling, you can some¬
times find pliers with plastic-coated jaws.
i■
,s
-i
i
1: 4 basic array of wire-working pliers includes
r (from top): chain nose, round nose, and flat nose.
(
JEWELRY
The tools shown on these two pages are used

for only some of the projects; left, a wire jig;
below, a ring mandrel
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Tool Kit Additions

These tools, while not essential for every Mandrel
jewelry project, will be needed for some.
A mandrel is any straight or tapered rod
Check the projects’ tool lists before
around which you can wrap wire to shape
you begin.
it into coils. It’s an essential tool for
making jump rings, the loops in closures,
Jig or uniformly sized units for links. Metal
A wire jig is a lifesaver when you’re knitting needles make ideal mandrels,
making a piece that uses multiple links but you can use a nail, a dowel, one of the
made in the same shape, although lots metal rods of various diameters sold in
of wire jewelry can be made without hobby shops, or even a pen. Mandrels
ever using one. Essentially, the tool is a don’t have to be round. For jewelry with
base with a grid of holes that hold tiny, a completely different look, try using a
I
moveable pegs, around which you square, oval, or rectangular mandrel.
i
wrap the wire. The result; near-perfect For certain applications—for instance,
consistency for each link. when making long coils for jump rings—
you might even try a coiling tool, but it
Jigs are also a good design tool; just play
isn’t necessary for any of the projects
around with some inexpensive wire and
in this book.
different peg placements to create your
own wire patterns. Your local jewelry
shop probably has books that contain
a nice variety of jig patterns. You can
purchase commercial jigs in craft stores
or make your own with a block of wood
and some finishing nails.
Hypnosis Ring, page 50
16
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAO
CONTEMPORARY
Hammers and Anvil
A few of the projects were hammered, or
forged, to change the shape of the wire a
bit. You can employ a common carpentry
hammer and work on a smooth, very hard
surface, such as a steel block or an anvil.
To shape or flatten wire without marring it
or changing the wire’s profile in any way,
use a rawhide or plastic hammer.
Crimping Pliers
A few projects use crimping beads, which
are tiny tubelike beads made of metal
soft enough to allow them to be
compressed against wire or cord with
a pair of crimping pliers.
Eggbeater Drill
This tool will enable you to rapidly coil
long guantities of wire around a small
mandrel and is particularly helpful for
making a lot of jump rings. See the
Handmade Jump Rings sidebar on page 19
to learn about using an eggbeater drill.
J!
Ul
UI
-)
UI
ff
mm
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Wire Techniques
Now for the fun: learning how to wrangle Straightening Using Jump Rings
the wire into a great jewelry design using
To keep it in good condition, wire is stored Always open and close jump rings by
basic wire techniques. Unless you’re
and sold in coils. Coiling wire saves holding each end with pliers and twisting
already familiar with them, you’ll probably
space, but it’s best to straighten out its one ring’s end toward you and the other
want to practice these techniques with
curve before you begin working with it. end away, as shown in figure 1; pulling
a low-cost wire first—it’s not easy to
To straighten a short length of wire, hold the ends straight apart, laterally, will distort
straighten wire once it’s bent the wrong
one end of it with chain-nose pliers. the ring’s shape and can undermine the
way. You might want to use the fun
Just above the pliers, grasp the wire strength of the wire and cause it to break.
colored-wire products to make your
with a cloth or paper towel to keep your
learning curve more enjoyable. The
hands clean and to prevent friction burn.
results might be good enough to use for
Squeezing your fingers slightly, pull the
a later project.
length of wire through them.
Sometimes it may seem as if your wire
If the wire bends or crimps at any time,
has a mind of its own. To keep spooled
gently run your finger along it to smooth
wire under control, put it in a small plastic
the kink, or rub the wire over the edge
storage bag. Pull out a length of wire as
of a table padded with newspaper. Don’t
needed. If you’re working with a coil of
smooth a crimp too vigorously, or the wire
wire rather than a spool, wrap a piece
could break. (Shaping wire, remember,
of masking tape around it so it can’t
hardens it. The more it’s worked, the
spring open in all directions. Good-looking
more brittle it becomes.)
jewelry pieces are those with smooth and
confident swoops, angles, and curves,
made from kink-free wire. Wrapping
No matter what you’re wrapping the wire
around, always pull it tightly against the
pliers, mandrel, bead, or wire. When
you’re making jump rings, keep each pass
of the wire as even and as close to the
last one as possible.
8
HANDMADE JUMP RINGS
To make your own jump rings, simply wind a length of wire tightly
around a mandrel. If you want to make a lot of jump rings at
once, you might consider using an eggbeater drill to quickly do
the job. Secure both the mandrel and one end of the wire tightly
in the tool’s jaws. As you turn the handle, hold the wire close to
the mandrel. Whether you use a drill or not, keep the rounds of
wire as straight and as close to each other as possible. After
you’ve wound all the wire, slide the coil you’ve just formed off
the mandrel and trim the ends. Use wire cutters, in exactly the
same position each time, to free a fully circular ring—no more, no
less—from the coil. One last tip: it’s tempting to use your fingers
to pry open a jump ring, but avoid splitting your nails by using
two pairs of flat-nose pliers instead.
I
Spirals
To create flat spirals, use the tip of a pair FIGURE 3
of round-nose pliers to curve one end of
the wire into a half-circle or hook shape
about % inch (0.3 cm) in diameter (see
figure 2). Use the very tips of the pliers to
i
i curve the end of the wire tightly into itself,
as shown In figure 3, aiming to keep the
shape round rather than oval. Hold the
spiral in flat- or chain-nose pliers and
1 push the loose end of the wire against the
already-coiled form (see figure 4); as you FIGURE 4
continue, reposition the wire in the pliers
!
as needed.
19
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Links and Loops

A link is simply one unit in a piece of the tips themselves stationary, rotate the FIGURE 5
jewelry. A link can be formed either by pliers up and away from you (see figure 6).
hand or with a jig. It can be an elaborate Be careful not to pull out the right-angle
wire shape full of curls and curlicues or bend you made earlier. Stop rotating when
be based on a simple form, such as an you’ve made half the loop.
S shape or a figure eight.
Slide the pliers’ tips back along the wire a
A loop is an important part of a link. The bit and resume the rotation. To prevent the
perfect loop should be precisely circular, loop from becoming misshapen, make
centered over the straight part of the wire sure to keep one of the pliers’ tips snugly
from which it’s formed, and it should close inside the loop as you make it, so that the
tightly. Perfect your technique by making loop is being formed by a combination
loops from different gauges of scrap wire. of rotation and shaping around the
“mandrel” of the pliers. Keep working,
Start with 6 inches (15.2 cm) of wire and
sliding the pliers back as needed, until the
work with a pair of round-nose pliers.
loop is closed against the 90-degree bend
Make a sharp 90-degree bend about
(see figure 7). To make all your loops look
inch (1.3 cm) from one end of the wire, a
nice and consistent, see the Same-Sized

as shown in figure 5. This measurement
Loops (Every Time!) sidebar on page 21.
will vary, depending on how large a loop
you want to make; with practice, you’ll get A bead loop link is made by enclosing a
to know how much wire to allow for it. bead between two loops. Another option is
to start with an eye pin, so that you’ll have
Hold the wire so that the longer portion
to fashion only one closing loop.
points to the floor and the short, bent end
is pointing at you. Grasp the short end Of course, there are hundreds of variations
with the round-nose pliers, holding the of these basic links. Links can be attached
pliers so that the back of your hand faces to each other with jump rings or linked
you. The closer to the tips you work, the directly together as you make them.
smaller the loops you can make. Keeping
FIGURE 8 A wrapped bead loop is a simple variation Twisting
of the bead loop link just described.
Only square wire can be twisted. Round
Use an extra length of wire for the
wire won’t show the twisting properly, and
90-degree bend. Once you’ve made the
the process will just work-harden It.
loop, reposition the pliers so that the
lower jaw is inside it. Use your other hand To create twisted wire In no time at all,
to wrap the wire’s tail around the base of work with a pair of pin vises. Insert each
the loop several times, as shown in figure end of a piece of wire into a pin vise,
8. Slide on one or more beads and, if the tighten the chucks, and twist them in
design calls for It, repeat the loop-forming opposite directions until you like the look
FIGURE 9
process at the other end to make a you’ve achieved. If you have only one pin
wrapped bead loop link (see figure 9). vise, secure the other end of the wire in
Trim off any excess wire. a clamp or table vise (or in a pair of pliers
if you have just a short quantity to twist).
You can also use this tool to twist two
Opening and Closing Loops
lengths of the same wire together,
Just as with jump rings, use two pair of creating a heavier look, or to twist together
pliers to open and close loops. Twist the two different colors of wire.
cut end sideways while keeping the other
side of the loop stationary. Pulling it open
SAME-SIZED LOOPS
(EVERY TIME!) any other way will distort the loop’s shape.
Be sure to tighten any gaps in loops after
With a permanent marker,
you’ve attached your links.
draw a line on the jaw of your
round-nose pliers. If you
place the wire there every
time you make a loop, you
can count on it always to
be the same size.
Jig-Formed Links The Needle Arts
A jig tool helps you make the same Crocheting and knitting with wire aren’t
wire shape (usually a link) consistently, all that different from the yarn variety—
over and over. To keep your links identical, and you needn’t worry about your project
always follow the same circuit on the jig shrinking in the wash later. Because wire
and try to work in the same manner each is thinner and more slippery than yarn, the
time. Using flat-nose pliers, hold a piece of techniques may feel a little awkward at
wire tightly at one end, or place its tail In first. Even if you already have experience,
an empty hole In the jig that’s near the you’ll find that when using wire, you’ll
first peg (or nail). Wrap the wire tightly need to use a light hand In establishing
around the pegs, following the pattern the tension (i.e., how tightly or loosely the
indicated in the instructions. Once you’ve material is woven together), because this
made one unit, remove it from the jig and material has no elasticity whatsoever.
repeat to make all the units that you need.
Creating a siipknot requires a different
It’s that easy.
approach than with yarn, since wire
doesn’t actually slip. Instead of pulling
Polishing on one end to tighten it, tug on both. The
You can polish your jewelry with a jewelry wire loop should still be able to move
buffing cloth (sometimes called a rouge easily up and down the needle or hook.
cloth) or papers, which are available from As you work, resist the temptation to
most jewelry suppliers. Before using any wrap the wire around your finger, as is
cleaning solution, test it on a scrap piece typical when working with yarn, because
of wire first. A tumbler is an option for it will create even more kinks and crimps.
some pieces, but make sure you’re familiar And although you can smooth the kinks
with its operation and consider that many somewhat, don’t worry too much about
beads aren’t suitable for the process. them, because for the most part they
won’t be noticeable in the finished piece.
Often, all the beads in a project are

threaded onto the wire before you cast Mardi Gras Bracelet,
page 46
22 1
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
on, and then each one slipped into place Crocheting
as needed (usually after each stitch). As
Crochet hooks also come in different sizes
you cast on, be prepared to leave a tail
and may be aluminum, wood, or plastic;
long enough to finish the piece and hold
you can use a hook made from any
the clasp.
material you like. Hook size affects how
Colored craft wire is popular for knitting tightly or loosely woven the fabric appears
and crocheting. If you’d like to try working between stitches, so if you want to
with silver wire, consider using gold or duplicate the project, make sure to use
fine silver wire, which is softer and lighter the size specified in the instructions.
(though more expensive) than sterling.
The only two crochet stitches used to
create the projects in this book are the
Knitting simplest ones—chain stitch and single
The projects in this book use only the crochet. Crocheted chain has a tendency
knit or purl stitches, and they employ the to twist, so be prepared to do some
standard knitting abbreviations you’re smoothing as you work. Hold the loop
used to seeing for yarn projects. Pull your you’re working on with the thumb and
knitting down and away from the needle finger of your nondominant hand so you
as you go, flattening it slightly with your can control its size and shape.
fingers, so as to make it easier to work

the next row. Knitting needles come in
different diameters and materials.
Time for lots of beady, loopy fun! You
Aluminum needles are more practical than
have a basic tool kit, some wire, and an
wood or bamboo, simply because the wire
exciting array of handpicked beads;
will slip better on them, but what’s most
you’ve practiced the techniques and know
important is to use the size listed in the
a wrapped loop from a bead link. You’re
instructions in order to reproduce the
ready for the rewarding handicraft of
project closely. Short, double-pointed
making bead and wire jewelry, and we
needles are sometimes recommended
have 43 delightful projects waiting.
for smaller-size pieces.
i
The silhouette of these

gold-and-crystal earrings
recalls the roof of an
ancient Chinese pagoda.
Their airy cage frames,
ingeniously wrapped, hold
clusters of bead links.
JEWELRY
Rachel Dow, Designer
Temple Earrings
WIRE
&
BEAD
MATER IALS INSTRUCTIONS
22 bi-cone glass beads in various MAKE 2.
colors, 4 mm diameter
4
CONTEMPORARY
Make a chain of three linked Attach a jump ring to the frame
22-gauge dead-soft gold-filled wire,
wrapped-loop beads with the where the spokes cross. Add the
IVi feet (76.2 cm) long, for the
22-gauge wire. Make eight eye pins from beaded chain element from step 1 to
cascading chain and eye pins
the same wire, slip a bead on each, and the jump ring.
18-gauge dead-soft gold-filled wire,
add three of these as dangles to the last
1 foot (30.5 cm) long, for the Finish wrapping the armature,
loop of the bead chain. Attach two more
armature making a double wrap on the last
to the next loop up. Finally, attach the last
26-gauge dead-soft gold-filled wire, spoke. Trim any excess wire.
three in the next loop (see figure 1). Set
3 feet (91.4 cm) long, for the wraps
this element aside.
Add an ear wire to the jump ring.
2 dead-soft gold-filled jump rings,
18-gauge, 6 mm diameter 2 Use flush cutters to cut two pieces
of 18-gauge wire, each 3 inches FIGURE 1
2 gold ear wires
(7.6 cm) long. Make small spirals on the
ends of each wire. Center one piece of
TOOLS
wire on the dowel and form the wire
Dowel, 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) diameter over it. Pinch the coiled ends toward each
other while the wire is still on the dowel to
make an element that looks like figure 2.
Remove from the dowel and repeat with
the other piece of wire.
Pair up the wires and wrap the

26-gauge wire three times around
the apex of their curves. Push apart the
two 18-gauge wires so that they criss¬
cross where they’re bound together. Wrap
the 26-gauge wire over the curves of the
armature. As you come to a spoke, wrap
it. Complete two full circuits over the FIGURE 2
armature, leaving a little space between

the “rungs.” To avoid distorting the
armature’s shape, hold the spoke that
you’re working with between your thumb
and index finger. If the wrapping wire
becomes bent or kinked, use chain-nose
pliers to straighten it out.
With every gesture, the
beads on this unusual ring
click together in a delightful
way. Beads placed atop
tube beads resemble a
flower’s stamens, and the
color scheme feels fresh
and appealing.
Spring
JEWELRY
Blossom Ring
WIRE
Nathalie Mornu, Designer
&
BEAD
MATERIALS INSTRUCTIONS
15 assorted green beads Carefully measure the width of edge of a corner. Tightly wrap it around
C O N T E M |3 O R A R Y
your finger at its base. Subtract the ring clockwise, keeping the coils as
3 assorted orange beads
Vi6 inch (0.2 cm) from that measurement. close together as possible; remove the
3 silver tube beads, each % inch
Draw a square with sides of that length pieces of masking tape as you reach
(0.95 cm) long
on the board. each one during the process. Continue
20-gauge silver-plated copper wire, wrapping to just beyond the last corner.
12 inches (30.5 cm) long, for Make a jig by driving four of the
the band nails into the board so that their As you wrap the last side of the
outermost edges are completely within ring’s base, you’ll create a series
24-gauge sterling silver wire, 48 inches
(1.2 m) long, for the wrap the lines. Hammer an anchoring nail of integrated loops on which you’ll later
a few inches away from one corner attach head pins strung with beads.
18 head pins (20 gauge or size
of the square. Lay a nail along the edge of the partially
needed to fit inside bead holes),
each 2 inches (5.1 cm) long unwrapped side. Wrap the wire once
Following the shape of the square,
around both then carefully shift the nail
wrap the 20-gauge wire a few times
so you can wrap the wire twice around
TOOLS around the anchor then tightly around the
only the band. Create six loops in this
jig four times. As you wrap, keep straight¬
Small wooden board
way. Slide the nail out from under the last
ening the wire by pressing against it with
Hammer loop, then resume wrapping the band.
5 small nails
your fingers, and make the corners crisp
by pressing them with the flat side of a
pair of pliers. Once you’ve wrapped the
6 Twist the wire ends around each
other a few times, snip off the
Masking tape
wire, pull out two of the nails so you can excess wire, and flatten the twist with
remove the shape easily from the jig. the side of a pair of pliers. Straighten
Precisely trim the ends of the wire so that the loops so that they’re parallel; if
only three full wraps of the square shape necessary, reshape them by reinserting
remain. Use your fingers and pliers to true the nail. Set the ring aside.
the shape of the square. Slip the band on
your finger to make sure it’s a good fit: it
7 Place one bead on each head pin.
Add a tube bead to three of the pins.
should feel only slightly loose.
To keep the beads on them, make a loop
Bind small bits of masking tape at at the open end of each head pin. Attach
the center of each side of the trios of bead-strung head pins to each of
square wire form to prevent it from the ring band’s loops, working out from
distorting as you work with it. Start the the center. Position the pins with tube
wrap of the 24-gauge wire at a 1 o’clock beads on them nearer the middle, so that
position. Vs inch (0.3 cm) from the inner the shorter pins that are clustered around
them will hold the taller ones aloft.
These
delicate,
lightweight
earrings can
dress up or
dress down.
Whatever the
occasion, their design
will be to your jewelry
box what the little
black dress is to
your wardrobe.
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
Ellen Gerritsej Designer
Whisper Drops
CONTEMPORARY
18 sterling silver seed beads MAKE 2.
18 white-frost twisted tube beads, ■A Slip one eye pin onto another eye pin,
12 mm long
I then a seed bead, a tube bead, and a
18 sterling silver crimp beads crimp bead. Close the crimp bead onto the
18 sterling silver eye pins, beaded eye pin, Vi inch (1.3 cm) from the end.
1 inch (2.5 cm) long
2 sterling silver ear wires

2 Add another eye pin to the element you
made in step 1, with the same sequence
of beads and ending in a crimp bead.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make two

3 more beaded elements.
4 Hang all three elements on an ear

wire loop.
JEWELRY
Silver Flow
WIRE
Brooch
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
4 round glass beads, 5 mm diameter Straighten the wire. Make a loop on

one end to use later for making a
16-gauge dead-soft sterling silver wire,
10 inches (25.4 cm) long hook for the pin stem.
Shape the wire to match figure 1,

adding the beads as you work. After
you shape the brooch, 1% inches (4.4 cm)
of unbent wire should remain. File the
end of this wire to a gradual taper for the
pin stem, making the pin’s point 14 inch
(0.6 cm) long.
To make the hook for the brooch,

open the loop from step 1 with
chain-nose pliers. Bend it at a right angle
to the brooch.
4 Use round-nose pliers to bend

the pin stem toward the hook.
The pin stem should extend beyond the
hook by 14 inch (0.6 cm); make adjust¬
ments as necessary.
Elegant twisted gold
wire frames a large
pendant of gleaming
amber, with a delicate
freshwater pearl
accenting the whole.
The designer was
lucky enough to find
a chunk of amber with
^ tiny insect preserved
E W E L R Y
Michaeianne Hall, Designer
WIRE
Caught-in-Honey
&
BEAD
Pendant
CONTEMPORARY
1 small freshwater pearl, 3 to Working with the 24-gauge wire and (2.5 cm) long. On either side of the U,
4 mm diameter
needle-nose pliers, turn Vie inch wrap these three times around all the
1 piece of amber, 20 to (0.2 cm) at one end and pinch it against 22-gauge wires, making sure to keep
25 mm diameter the rest of the wire to make a tiny eye. them side by side as you wrap. Trim any
1 gold bead, 2 mm diameter String the gold bead and the pearl on the excess 20-gauge wire, so that the ends
wire. Make a wrapped bead loop above are on the side opposite the U bend.
24-gauge half-hard 14-karat gold round
wire, V/2 inches (3.8 cm) long, for the pearl.
Holding the wrapped area gently
hanging the pearl Cut four pieces of 22-gauge wire, with needle-nose pliers, twist
22-gauge soft 14-karat gold-filled each 8 inches (20.3 cm) long. both ends of the inner wire that’s not
square wire, 32 inches (81.3 cm) Mark the center of only one of the wires the U wire.
long, for the decorative wirework and use round-nose pliers to bend it into a
Place one end of the amber against
20-gauge half-hard 14-karat gold U. Measure and mark Vk inch (0.5 cm) the wrapped quartet of wires and
half-round wire, AVi inches from the bottom of the U and bend the
use your fingers to curve them against
(11.4 cm) long, for the wraps wire 90 degrees there, to look like figure
1. Slide the pearl element made in step 1
FIGURE 1
TOOLS onto the U.
Masking tape Place the four 22-gauge wires

together, side by side, with the
Round dowel, 6 mm diameter
U-shaped wire in an inner position. Cut
two pieces of 20-gauge wire, each 1 inch
'■^'3
>
K
Caught-in-Honey
Jl
U Pendant
Ul
T
Ui
s
MB
eS
Q
«(
Ul
SI FIGURE 2
>•
cc
<
E
0
a
S
lU
h
S
0
u
the stone. Referring to figure 2, hold your Remove the masking tape. Evenly -1 Use the remaining wires to make
work so that the U-shaped wire is in the divide the wires into two groups of I Ky the bail. Twist the ones that
#2 position. Shape both ends of the twist¬ four, making certain the group on the right aren’t already twisted. Place the dowel
ed wire (#3) along either side of the amber side of the pendant contains two wires behind them, right above the binding. Hold
piece. Snug wire #1 over the front of the that aren’t twisted. Arrange the wires in the wires against the dowel with your
amber piece, and wire #4 around the this set side by side, making sure the two thumb and bend the wires slightly toward
back. Shape wire #2 so that it gently outer wires are not twisted ones. you. Wrap the left-hand wire away from
curves no more than Va inch (0.3 cm) away you and to the left twice around the
Still working from the right side
from the amber. dowel. Repeat with the wire on the right
of the pendant, twist the two inner
so that it mirrors the left side. Remove the
Collect all the wires at the top of the wires. Use your fingers to shape the four
dowel and pinch the wraps close together.
pendant, making certain that they wire ends across the front of the amber,
hold the amber securely. Wrap masking then around the outside of wire #2. Hook H ^ Bring the left-hand wire of the bail
tape around them, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) their ends around wire #2 and clip off any I I down to wrap around wire #2, near
above where you will bind them. Cut a excess wire. the shoulder of the pendant. Clip any extra
piece of 20-gauge wire IVz inches (6.4 wire. Working from front to back, wrap the
Select two of the remaining four
cm) long and, working from bottom to bail’s right-hand wire twice around the top
wire ends at the top of the pendant
top, bind the wires together securely by of the four wires that cross the front of the
and bend them straight down over the
wrapping the wire four times around amber. Snip off any excess wire.
back of the binding. Clip the wires % inch
them. Trim any excess wire on the back
(1 cm) long. Turn under the ends and tuck
side of the pendant.
them between the binding and the stone.
34
U E W E L. R Y
Wandering Gypsy
Bracelet
WIRE
Diane Gueizow, Designer
&
BEAD
C O N T E M P O R A R Y
Eclectic, colorful, energetic—
this bracelet’s carefree mix
of texture and bright shapes
is just as fun to put together
as it is to wear.
JEWELRY
Wandering Gypsy Bracelet

MAT E RIA LS INSTRUCTIONS
42 assorted beads (pearls, crystal,

sterling silver, glass, polymer clay,
H Cut the 16-gauge silver wire into six
I pieces, each 214 inches (6.4 cm) long;
7 Make three jump rings of any diameter
you like out of the brass wire, and at
WIRE
bone, round and donut-shaped least 15 eye pins from the 20-gauge wire,
set aside the 2-inch piece that’s left. File
semiprecious stones, and large
the ends smooth. Using the chasing some with creatively shaped bead stops,
seed beads)
hammer and working on a steel bench such as spirals and wrapped loops. Slip
&
16-gauge sterling silver wire, 20 inches block, flatten the last 14 Inch (0.3 cm) of between one and three beads on each of
(45.7 cm) long, for the links and
BEAD
the wire ends slightly. these, as well as on the purchased head

the hook
18-gauge brass wire, 15 inches

2 With round-nose pliers, form side
loops, facing in opposite directions,
pins. Trim and file the eye and head pins as
needed. Attach beads to all of the links and
(38.1 cm) long, for the jump rings
C O N T £ IWl P O R A R V
the jump rings between them.

on the wire ends (see figure 1). Form each
(25.4 cm) long, for the eye pins piece of wire into an S to create a link
(see figure 2).
9 sterling silver head pins, 4 mm long
3 To give the links some variety,
gently hammer the outermost parts
TOOLS
of the loops on the bench block. If the
Chasing hammer hammering distorts their shapes, reshape
Steel bench block them with round-nose pliers. Set the
links aside.
Dowel, y? Inch (1.3 cm) diameter
4 Using the dowel and the 18-gauge
brass wire, make 15 jump rings.
FINISHED LENGTH
Hammer them slightly, but if their ends
814 inches (21 cm) spread apart a bit as a result, reshape
them as needed.
5 To assemble the bracelet, connect

the links with two jump rings
between each. Add a single jump ring to
one of the outer links to serve as part of
the closing clasp. Set aside the remaining
two jump rings.
6 Create the hook for closing the

bracelet with the leftover piece of
16-gauge wire from step 1. File both
ends smooth. Gently hammer the last
14 inch (0.3 cm) of the ends flat. Using 1
round-nose pliers, create a small side loop
on one end. Shape this side of the wire
into a hook, then flatten all but the loops.
On the other end of the wire, create a
large side loop, bending it perpendicular to
the hook. Use two jump rings to attach
this loop to the last link.
36
Ruby Wave
Bracelet Chris Orcuttj Designer
Natural ruby beads

ride a wave of gold
wire in this ingeniously
crafted sculptural band.
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Ruby Wave
Bracelet
2 round natural ruby beads,

8 mm diameter
-1 Shape the center area of the 14-gauge
I wire into a gentle curve with round-
6 String the beads onto the 20-gauge
gold-filled wire, starting and ending
i
1 natural ruby faceted rondelle, nose pliers. with a sterling silver spacer and using a
12 mm diameter
4 oxidized Bali sterling silver spacer

2 Use a ball-peen hammer and a jew¬
eler’s anvil to flatten the curved area.
spacer between each bead. Slide the
beads to the middle of the wire.
beads, 2 x 6.9 mm

Keeping one end each of the sterling
7 Secure the beaded wire to the
bracelet form with a few pleasing¬
silver and the 16-gauge gold-filled
12 inches (30.5 cm) long looking loops, making sure to pass it
wires together in your hand, shape the gold
16-gauge dead-soft gold-filled wire, between the spacers and the beads.
wire into curves and loops over and around
12 inches (30.5 cm) long Snip off any excess wire and tuck in
the silver wire, and use your fingers and
20-gauge dead-soft gold-filled wire, the ends among the beads.
round-nose pliers to wrap a large loop
6 inches (15.2 cm) long
close to the center of the bracelet. 8 Form the bracelet over a bracelet
mandrel and tap it into shape
Once you’re satisfied with the design,
TOOLS with a plastic mallet. Give the piece
flatten a portion of the large gold loop
Ball-peen hammer and anvil a final polish with a soft cloth or jewelry¬
as you did for the silver wire in step 2.
polishing material.
Bracelet mandrel
With your fingers or flat-nose pliers,
Plastic mallet twist the silver wire at the ends of
the bracelet several times around the gold-
filled one. Squeeze the bracelet ends
(including the twists) with flat-nose pliers.
Round off the cut ends with a fine file.
38
This glistening flower brooch
is built on a type of pierced-
dome pin back that’s often
used in qostume jewelry.
Loops of crocheted copper
wire and indescent beads
form the petals, while twisted
wire and the teensiest faceted
. . '■ ■ ^ r*
V - y
beads make the stamens: T .;

JEWELRY
Coppery Pink Flower Pin

INSTRUCTIONS
I
Tie a knot in one end of the copper
wire to prevent the beads from sliding
6 Gently coil the beaded brass wire
stamens into a loose rosette. Attach
WIRE
off. Randomly thread all of the beads, the arrangement to the center of the
except the pearl, on it. flower, trimming the wire ends on the
2 inner side of the dome.

&
Leaving approximately a 2-inch

(5.1 cm) tail, make a slipknot to With the remainder of the chain of
BEAD
begin. Crochet a single chain, with a bead pink beads, make a 2-inch (5 cm)
in every stitch, to measure 40 inches loop, adding the pearl to its base. Attach
(1.02 m) in length. To secure the stitching, the loop at the center of the brooch with
CONTEMPORARY
pull the remaining wire through the last a bit of wire; trim any excess.
chain. Leave a 2-inch (5.1 cm) tail.
Glue the pin back to the inside of the
Cut off the excess with wire cutters.
back of the domed caging screen’s
Make the first “petal” from a 31/2- to mounting plate. Set it aside to dry. When
4-inch (8.9-10.2 cm) loop of beaded dry, attach the mounting plate to the
MATERIALS
chain. Hook a folded 2-inch piece of wire domed part of the finding with needle-
65 pink oval beads, 6 mm diameter
through one end of the beaded chain. nose pliers, folding the prongs securely
30 pink crystal teardrop beads, Bring the ends of the folded wire through over the screen.
3 mm diameter a hole in the screen and twist them
24 pink faceted crystal beads, together on the underside. Repeat four
3 mm diameter more times, to make five petals in all,
32 gold faceted crystal beads, around the outer edge.

3 mm diameter 4 Repeat the process described in
step 3 to make five 3- to 3y2-inch
1 pink pearl, 6 mm diameter
(7.6-8.9 cm) loops inside the ring of
26-gauge copper wire,
8 yards (7.3 m) long outer petals. Set aside.
26-gauge brass wire, Make the stamens by threading

2 yards (1.8 m) long the gold beads onto the brass wire.
22 mm domed caging screen Tie a small knot at each wire’s end, then
with a 4-prong mounting plate* gently fold it in half, arranging 16 beads
on each side. Push one bead into the
1-inch (2.5 cm) pin back
fold and twist the wire until the twist is
1/2 inch (1.3 cm) long. Randomly twist the
TOOLS beads into Vi- to %-inch (1.3-1.9 cm)
Crochet hook, 5 mm (size H U.S.) “branches” until the central “trunk”
measures approximately 114 inches (3.2
Tape measure
cm) long, as shown in figure 1. Repeat for
Tetrachloroethylene adhesive,
the other half of the wire, making a total
such as E6000
of 12 to 14 branches. Trim off the excess
wire from each end.
*Order from a supplier that sells
costume jewelry findings.
40
Santa Fe Cuff
Michaelarine Hail, Designer
This cuff
proves that less
really is more. Its
design incorporates
both linear and circular
forms, and the use of
turquoise lends its style
a southwestern touch.
JEWELRY
Santa Fe Cuff
5 gold-filled round beads, ^ Straighten the silver wire, then cut 8 Slide four turquoise beads against
the wire wrap you just made and,
4 mm diameter I one piece 15)^ inches (39.4 cm) long
WIRE
and two pieces each 6)^ inches (16.5 cm) using the same method as before, wrap a
24 turquoise round beads,
4 mm diameter long. Mark the center of the long piece piece of half-round wire on the other side
with a permanent marker, center it in the of the beads to frame them. Slide one gold
20-gauge halt-hard sterling silver
&
jaws of flat-nose pliers, and bend both bead against this wrap, then wrap another
square wire, 31 inches (78.7 cm)
piece of half-round wire on the bead’s
BEAD
long, tor the cuff’s exterior and sides of the wire to make a U. Set aside
the hook these wires. other side. Repeat, leaving the last four
20-gauge half-hard 14-karat gold-tilled

turquoise beads on this side free. Repeat
Cut the 20-gauge gold-filled square
square wire, 26 inches (66 cm) long, with the beads on the other side of the
CONTEMPORARY
wire into four pieces, each 61/2 inches

for the cuff’s interior center gold bead.
(16.5 cm) long. Mark Vi inch (1.3 cm) from
24-gauge half-hard 14-karat gold-filled each end. Use a pin vise to twist all four Cut two pieces of half-round wire,
square wire, 6V2 inches (16.5 cm) each 18 inches (45.7 cm) long. Hook
pieces of wire between the marks, leaving
long, for stringing the beads
the ends untwisted. one piece next to the last set of four
20-gauge half-hard 14-karat gold-filled turquoise beads closest to the U-shaped
half-round wire, 46 inches (1.2 m) String all the beads on the 24-gauge
bend in the silver wire. Wrap the half-
long, for the wraps wire, alternating four turquoise
round wire 16 to 18 times, until the ends
beads with a gold one.
of the interior parallel wires are no longer
TOOLS Place the U-shaped silver wire from visible. Repeat on the other side, leaving
Masking tape step 1 on your work surface; its legs the two outermost silver wires exposed.
will be the outermost wire of the cuff.
Use flat-nose pliers to bend the
Place all the 6y2-inch (16.5 cm) wires
outermost silver wires outward
between the legs and parallel to each
45 degrees. Trim each to % inch (1 cm)
other, alternating the twisted wires with
long. Use round-nose pliers to roll them
the silver ones; put the beaded wire in the
inward to make loops.
middle. Align the ends of the seven
straight wires M inch (0.6 cm) away from To make the hook for the clasp,
the U-shaped bend. Use masking tape to cut a piece of square silver wire
secure all the wires on each end, keeping 2V2 inches (6.4 cm) long. Bend it into a
the square wires flat. U shape. Using round-nose pliers held

perpendicular to the wire, grasp the tip of
Mark the interior wires at their
the bend and angle it slightly. To form the
midpoints. Center the third gold
hook, move your pliers to just beyond the
bead from the end on this midpoint mark.
angled tip and use your fingers to bend
Cut 10 pieces of 20-gauge half- the wire ends around the outer part of the
round wire, each 3 inches (7.6 cm) tool’s tip. Now bend the ends of the wire
long. Use needle-nose pliers to make a outward 30 degrees. Mark % inch (1 cm)
hook at one end of each piece. from each end and make a loop from that
Working directly next to the center length of wire. Attach the hooks to the
gold bead, hook the sharp bend of loops on the cuff.
one of the half-round wires over the silver Starting at the middle of the
outermost wire and, using needle-nose bracelet, slowly and gently shape
pliers, make three wraps around the its form until you can close the clasp.
bundle of wires. Trim it and finish by
hooking the end to the inside.
Make this eye-catching piece with
beads that connplennent a favorite
jacket, a knitted muffler, or anything
that’s big and bold enough to stand
up to such sassiness.
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Sassy Pin
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Z MATERIALS INSTRUCTIONS
0
0 2 small beads* (the project uses a
striped glass bead and a square
To make the coiled element, place the
18-gauge wire across the 14-gauge
4 Use flat-nose pliers to stretch out
the spiral to the length of the focal
hematite one) wire. Coil the lighter gauge wire around bead. Open the spiral slightly in the middle,
1 resin focal bead,* V/i inches (3.8 cm) the heavier one. Remove the 14-gauge insert the focal bead in one end, and
long wire. To form a loop that will allow you to stretch the wire over the other end of the
1 plastic disk bead,* % inch (1.9 cm) attach the coiled component to the brooch bead (see figure 3). Twist the wire so that
diameter later, use pliers to flip the last round on it fits snugly around the bead, then use
one end of the coil away from the rest of flat-nose pliers to adjust the coil’s spacing
1 dotted resin bead,* % inch (1.9 cm)
diameter them. Do the same on the other end. so that the rounds look even.
18-gauge dead-soft sterling silver wire, Mark the midpoint of the 14-gauge To form the spiral clasp, grasp the
20 inches (50.8 cm) long, for the wire with a permanent marker. Use 16-gauge wire with flat-nose pliers,
coiled element small round-nose pliers to make a spiral 172 inches (3.8 cm) from one end, and
14-gauge dead-soft sterling silver wire, that ends at the midpoint mark. Repeat make a right-angle bend. Grasp the long
8 inches (20.3 cm) long, for wrapping the same process with the other end of wire at the joint with round-nose pliers,
around the focal bead the wire, making a spiral oriented in the holding them parallel to the bent wire (see
16-gauge half-hard or dead-soft sterling opposite direction from the first one. figure 4). Start the spiral by using your
silver wire, 15 inches (38.1 cm) long, thumb to push the long wire away from
With the tips of the pliers, push out
for the body of the brooch you, partway around one of the pliers’ tips.
the central section of both spirals
* The holes must be large enough to Reorient the pliers as necessary to make a
(see figure 1 on page 47). Hoid fhe com¬
accommodate 16-gauge wire. spiral with five revolutions, with the short
ponent by its midsection, in the tips of
tail of wire sticking out from the center of
chain-nose pliers. With your thumb and
FINISHED LENGTH
it. Grasp the long wire with flat-nose pliers
index finger, pinch the bases of the coned
33/4 inches (9.5 cm) where the spiral straightens out and make
spirals together (see figure 2).
a right angle. Later you’ll place the beads
along this wire.
JEWELRY
FIGURE 1
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPOrSARY
6 To make a hook to hold the pin
stem, hold the center of the spiral
8 Form the spring by holding the brooch
so the front of the spiral faces you,
with flat-nose pliers, with the long wire with the opening of the clasp pointing up.
extending to the right, and bend the short With long round-nose pliers, grasp the wire
tail up so that it almost rests against the 1 to 1 Vi inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) away from
spiral. Now grasp the short wire with the dotted bead. Make one and three-
round-nose pliers, close to the bend you quarters revolutions perpendicular to the
just made; shape the wire back over the spiral, meanwhile making sure the end of
pliers into a hook. Cut the tail so that it the wire rotates under the spring.
extends Vi inch (0.6 cm) below the spiral.
To make the pin stem, put the working
Using small round-nose pliers, make a
wire into the clasp. Cut the end of the
small loop in the end of it. Ideally, when
wire so that it’s just slightly longer than the
you look at the front of the spiral, the
clasp. File it to a point sharp enough to
clasp should not show at all.
penetrate loosely woven clothing, but not
Place the beads on the long wire, so sharp that the tip can be bent.
starting with the striped one; slide it
close to the right angle to serve as a stop.
Next, slide on a loop end of the coiled
element you made in step 1. Add the
caged focal bead, the other end of the coil,
the hematite cube, the plastic disk, and
finally the dotted bead. To withstand the
rigors of opening and closing the brooch,
this last bead should be a sturdy one.
This knitted-wire band
with brightly colored
beads is a party on your
wrist. Pair it with the
sanne designer’s
Festive Spiral Earrings
on page 38 for an
especially lively set.
JEWELRY
Mardi Gras
WIRE
&
Bracelet
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
MATERIALS I INSTRUCTIONS
95 gemstone and freshwater pearl

beads in complementary colors,
I
I
Note: Standard knitting abbreviations are
used. After you have finished each row,
2 Place five evenly spaced jump rings
along a short end of the band,
4 to 6 mm diameter I pull the knitted strip down and reshape it. slipping each ring through two strands
26-gauge dead-soft gold-filled wire, Make sure not to kink the wire. Use chain- of wire. Attach each jump ring to a ring
15 feet (4.6 m) long nose pliers to straighten it out if you do. on one of the clasp elements. Attach the
10 sterling silver jump rings, other short end of the band to the other
Thread all the beads onto
4 mm diameter clasp element in the same way.
the wire.
1 sterling silver 5-ring multistrand
Loosely CO 5 sts.
slide clasp
Row 1: K without adding any beads.
Row 2: P, adding beads randomly.
TOOLS
Alternate rows of k and p, adding beads
Knitting needles, 2.25 mm (size 1 U.S.)
randomly, until the band measures
7 inches (17.8 cm) long. The last
FINISHED LENGTH
row should be k without any
beads added.
7 inches (17.8 cm)
BO sts. Weave in both tail ends
of the wire.
/■
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Make these gleaming post¬

style pierced earrings in a
flash. Two versions are shown
here: one with pearls and
another pair made with paua
shell beads, both ingenious
interpretations of an
all-one-piece design.
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Pearly Spirally
Post Earrings
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Hanni Yothers, Designer ^ ^
MATER IALS INSTRUCTIONS
2 gray button pearls, 4 x 7 mm (or use Cut the wire into two 1 y2-inch finger near the bend in order to keep the
paua shell beads) (3.8 cm) pieces and two IVi inch pearl and spiral flush against the wire
22-gauge, half-hard 14-karat gold-filled (6.4 cm) pieces. bend. With your other hand, grasp the
wire, 8 inches (20.3 cm) long long wire and pull it as tightly as possible
Make a spiral from a iy2-inch (3.8
2 14-karat gold-filled ear nuts over the top and down the back of the
cm) piece of wire, until it’s at least
pearl. Wrap the long wire around the post
yi6 inch (0.5 cm) but not more than
wire, as close to the back of the pearl as
14 inch (0.6 cm) wide. Trim any remaining
possible. Keep each wrap tight against the
wire and file any sharp edges. Repeat the
previous one. Cut the wire when this spiral
process with the second piece of Vh inch
looks the same as the one on the front of
(3.8 cm) wire.
the earring.
Using your chain-nose pliers, make a
File any sharp edges on the spiral
90-degree bend % inch (1.9 cm)
wrap and on the post that extends
from the end of a 2y2-inch (6.4 cm) piece
straight out from the pearl. File a tiny
of wire. This will be the earring’s post.
notch all the way around the post to keep
Thread one of the spirals you made in step
the ear nut securely on it.
2 onto the short section of the wire, until it
touches the bend, followed by a pearl (with Repeat steps 3 through 5 for the
the round side facing the spiral). second earring.
Use your thumb and middle finger

(it’s sometimes hard to hang on to)
to grasp the pearl. Keep the long wire
pointing up, pushing on it with your index
Beware of gazing at this chic
ring for too long-
designer’s sleek brass
wirework is Just as
mesmerizing as
-’"F,
■■
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
Hypnosis Ring
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Joanna Goilberg, Designer
1 half-drilled bead or pearl,

4 mm diameter
Make a 90-degree bend in the wire, 3 To make the spiral, carefully hold
the peg with flat-nose pliers so you
inch (0.6 cm) away from its end.
12-gauge brass wire, 6 inches While holding the tail end of the bend in don’t break it off. Use your fingers to
(15.2 cm) long flat-nose pliers, completely wrap the wire fashion the long end of the wire into a
once around the mandrel at your ring size. spiral that’s perpendicular to the peg.
Extra-strength glue
Continue until the spiral is the size you
File the tip of the bend to make the
desire, then cut off any excess wire and
TOOLS wire thinner, until it fits into the hole
file the end.
of the bead or pearl like a peg. Make sure
Ring mandrel
to leave the wire thick near the crook of Put a small dot of extra-strength
the bend, because you’ll need to grasp it glue on the peg, then gently place
there when you make the spiral. the half-drilled bead or pearl on it. Allow
the glue to dry.
Like an artist’s squiggle,
this bracelet’s tree-form
wirework, wrapped onto
memory wire, has a
playful, intuitive quality.
Have fun choosing
not-quite-matched beads
that can be unified by an
overall color theme.
JEWELRY
Amber Arc
WIRE
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Bracelet
BEAD
syndee holt, Designer
CONTEMPORARY
Assortment of amber-colored beads of

various sizes, shades, and shapes
Select a bead with a hole large
enough to accommodate both the
4 Repeat steps 2 and 3, randomly
stringing different numbers of beads
24-gauge orange wire, 3 feet (91.4 cm) 24-gauge and the memory wire, put a dab on both wires and making arcs of different
long, as the decorative wirework of glue in the hole, and slip just the tips of lengths and shapes, until you’ve beaded
one end of both wires into it. Allow the all but the last Vi inch (1.3 cm) of the
Gold-tone memory wire, 23 inches
(58.4 cm)* glue to dry completely. memory wire. Make sure the last bead has
a hole large enough for both wires; put
Bead and glass glue or 5-minute epoxy String four beads on the memory
glue in the hole, and string both wires
wire; the last one should have a hole
through it. Trim away any extra wire. Allow
* This is enough to circie a wrist about large enough to accept both wires. Slide
the glue to dry completely.
three times. the beads along the memory wire until
they’re against the glued bead.
String two beads on the 24-gauge

wire and slide them along to the end
with the glued bead. Pull the 24-gauge
wire through the fourth bead that’s on the
memory wire. Don’t pull the 24-gauge
wire tight, but instead leave a small arc,
along which the two beads can move
freely. If you desire, you can alter the
shape of the arc—for example, giving
it a tight curve that stands away from
the memory wire, or making several
small bumps.
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around the beads in this necklace. The
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pendant to a chain crafted entirely of
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handmade links.
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Mami Laher, Designer

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Vortex Necklace
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MATERIALS INSTRUCTIONS FIGURE 1 h
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1 flat turquoise bead, Cut a piece of wire 6 inches (15.2 cm) 0
0
VA inches (3.2 cm) diameter I long. On one end, make a spiral.
6 round turquoise beads, Thread the large bead on the wire, then
1 cm diameter bend just the spiral around the end of the
stone to cup the front of it. On the other
2 faceted turquoise beads,
7 mm diameter end of the bead, make a wrapped loop.
Cut the wire tail VA inches (3.8 cm) long
18-gauge sterling silver wire,
and form it into a spiral. Bend this spiral
10 feet (3.1 m)
to cup the top of the bead.
58 sterling silver jump rings,
18-gauge, 5 mm diameter Cut four pieces of wire, each
3 inches (7.6 cm) long. Make four
TOOLS
bead links shaped like figure 1, two with
round beads on them and two with
Hammer and block
faceted beads on them. After you’ve
finished the initial wire shaping, forge
FINISHED LENGTH each link’s curve at its apex, as shown
17 inches (43.2 cm) by the wider areas in the illustration (if

the link loses its form during this process,
simply readjust its shape with pliers).
These are A links.
3 Cut four pieces of wire, each

inches (11.4 cm) long. Using a round
bead on each, fashion bead links shaped
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Vortex Necklace
like figure 2, forging the apexes of the the following order: ACBCBCCCCCC FIGURE 2
curves, as shown. These are B links. CCA. The first A iink should be one with
Cut 20 pieces of wire, each a round bead on it, and the last A link
3V2 inches (8.9 cm) long. Shape

should have a faceted one. Repeat to
each into a link as you did in step 3, but make the other half of the chain.
without a bead on it. These are C iinks. Place one chain on the work surface,
To make the clasp, cut a piece of with the links laid out in the
wire 2Va inches (5.7 cm) long. sequence from the previous step. To its
Shape and forge it as shown in figure 3, left, place the other chain so it mirrors the
then forge the outer curves. first. Keeping the chain pieces in this
FIGURE 3
orientation, attach both of the round-bead
Make halt of the chain by joining
A links to the wrapped loop of the center-
the links with pairs of jump rings,
piece, using jump rings through their
keeping each one oriented as shown in
spirals. Then use a jump ring to attach the
the photograph. Use two jump rings to
forged curves of both A links together.
attach each link to the next, with the jump
ring at the top connecting through the On one end of the chain, use a jump
center of the spiraled area of one link and ring to attach the clasp. Attach the
the curved part of the next, and the jump two remaining jump rings, one linked to
ring at the bottom likewise connecting the the other, to the other end of the chain.
links in a mirrored fashion. Join them in

JEWELRY
Celtic
Crystal
WIRE
&
Bracelet
BEAD
Marie Lee Carter, Designer
CONTEMPORARY
Pairs of double-spiral
elements in this design
recall the intricacies
of a Celtic motif.
Combined with
crystal beads,
the result is
a wonderfully
wearable bracelet.
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Celtic Crystal
Bracelet
6 rondelle beads * 6 mm diameter Make the double-spiraled elements Connect the double-spiral elements
by cutting six pieces of 16-gauge wire, with 4.5-mm jump rings.
(35.6 cm) long, for the spiraled
elements
each 2 inches (5.1 cm) long. Flatten each
end by striking it three or four times with a
6 Use a jump ring to connect the
ends of the double-spiral linked
hammer. Make pairs of symmetrical spirals
20-gauge sterling silver wire, 15 inches chain to an end loop of a trio you made
(38.1 cm) long, for the bead links on each. Set aside.
7 sterling silver jump rings, 16-gauge,

6 mm diameter
2 Put on protective eyewear. Make a
chain of three linked wrapped-loop
in step 2.
To make the clasp’s eye, attach a

6-mm jump ring to one end of the
10 to 12 sterling silver jump rings, beads with the 20-gauge wire. Repeat.
bracelet; using a 4.5-mm jump ring,
16-gauge, 4.5 mm diameter
To make the hook, use the remaining attach the hook to the other. (You may use
2-inch piece of 16-gauge wire. Make additional jump rings to extend the length
* The holes must be large enough to
a large hook with a tiny loop at one end of the bracelet.) File any burrs.
accommodate 20-gauge round wire.
and a larger loop at the other. File any
rough edges, then gently hammer the
TOOLS hook’s curve.
Hammer and block 4 Join pairs of double-spiraled

elements by lining one atop the other
and inserting a 6-mm jump ring through
the centers of both. File any burrs. Lay
open each pair, as you would a book, with
the coils to the inside.
«f E W E i-R Y
Lucky
Necklace
WIRE
&
BEAD
O R A R V
c O N T E M
The carved charm on this
spectacular necklace might
attract good fortune. Though
the bead links look ornate,
they consist of just
a few simple elements.
JEWELRY
Lucky Necklace
25 assorted honey-colored glass

beads, 5 mm
^ Cut and twist four pieces of
I 20-gauge square wire, each
7 Make a second chain, as described
in the previous step, but on the end
WIRE
4 dichroic glass cube beads, 9 mm 8 inches (20.3 cm) long. with the 5-mm bead, use a 5-mm jump
ring to attach a 9-mm jump ring.
12 faceted beads, 1 cm Cut two pieces of twisted wire,
each 31/2 inches (8.9 cm) long. An extra length of chain will be
&
4 rondelles, 1 cm
Cut one piece of untwisted 20-gauge added to the 9-mm jump ring. To
BEAD
2 flat stone beads, 1 inch square wire 414 inches (10.8 cm) long. make it, link together the five remaining
(2.5 cm) diameter
Slip two 5-mm beads on each twisted bead loops by their loops. Use the 3-mm
1 round carved charm, 1% inches wire and one glass cube on the untwisted jump ring to hang one end of the chain to
CONTEMPORARY
(4.4 cm) diameter

wire and place them side by side, as the 5-mm jump ring.
20-gauge gold-filled square wire, shown in figure 1, shaping the wires into
Cut a piece of 16-gauge wire
49 inches (1.2 m) long, for the bundles at the ends.
caged bead links
22-gauge gold-filled square wire,

3 Cut two pieces of 22-gauge square
wire, each 6 inches (15.2 cm)
2 inches (5.1 cm) long and shape
it to look like figure 3. Use the remaining
9-mm jump ring to hang the charm from
48 inches (1.2 m) long, for the
long. Clamp the end of one in the vise the central loop of this element. Attach a
caged bead links
and wrap the other end four times chain through the center of each spiral
18-gauge gold-filled wire, 27 inches
around one of the bundled wire ends; with a 5-mm jump ring.
(68.6 cm) long, for making bead
loop links repeat for the other end. Make spirals out
of all six wire ends. Repeat the process FIGURE 1
16-gauge gold-filled wire, 4V4 inches
to make a total of four caged-bead links.
(10.8 cm) long, for the clasp and a
connection element 4 Using the 18-gauge wire, make
bead loop links out of each faceted
28 jump rings, 18-gauge gold filled,
5 mm diameter bead, rondelle, stone bead, and the
remaining 5-mm beads.
2 jump rings, 18-gauge gold filled,
9 mm diameter To make the clasp, use a piece
1 jump ring, 18-gauge gold filled, of 16-gauge wire 214 inches
3 mm diameter (5.7 cm) long. Shape it as shown in figure
2, then forge the large outside curves.
TOOLS Adjust the clasp’s form if the hammer’s
blows distort it.
Tabletop vise
Hammer and block

6 To assemble one side of the chain,
attach the links with 5-mm jump
rings. For the caged bead links, pass the
FINISHED LENGTH
jump ring through the spiral of the center
27 inches (68.6 cm) wire. The parts are assembled with
faceted beads alternating a caged bead,
a stone, a caged bead, and ending with
two rondelles and two 5-mm beads. On
the end with a 5-mm bead, attach the
clasp with a jump ring.
Chandeliers
Shifting angles of view make

dichroic glass beads come alive in
these show-stopping earrings. The
coiled area may look challenging 4
to make, but it’s actually as easy 3
as slipping keys on a key ring. 3^
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Love Knot
Chandeliers
10 disk-shaped dichroic glass spacer

beads, x ^ inches (0.3 x 1.6 cm)
Note: The earrings’ finished dimensions
are 11/2x3 inches (3.8 x 7.6 cm); for
3 Carefully thread one coil through
the other, as if adding a key to a
8 saucer-shaped sterling silver beads, smaller-scale earrings, use smaller split-ring key chain. Once the coils are
5 mm diameter dowels and add more turns to the spirals entwined, spread their outer sides.

7 feet (2.1 m) long
on the crosspiece. Other components
should be adjusted accordingly, so you
4 Cut a piece of wire 3 inches (7.6 cm)
long. Using round-nose pliers, make
may wish to make a sample earring using
2 French ear wires a small wrapped loop at one end. Thread a
an inexpensive wire first.
dichroic bead on the wire; slip it through
TOOLS
-A Create the Love Knot by wrapping a the center of the Love Knot, making sure
I 14-inch (35.6 cm) piece of 20-gauge that it passes straight through all its rings;
%-inch (0.95 cm) dowel or
wire around the dowel 12 times. Remove and add another dichroic bead onto it. Use
other mandrel
the coil from the dowel and trim any the round-nose pliers to make a long, oval¬
excess wire from the ends. shaped wrapped loop, y2 inch (1.3 cm)
2 Gently grasping the ends of the coil,

spread it so that the sixth wrap is
from the last bead. This loop should be
long enough to hold two pieces of
20-gauge wire lying side by side.
exposed just enough to cut the coil neatly
in half with flush cutters. Be careful not to
spread the entire coil apart. 5 Repeat steps 1 through 4 to make
a second knot assembly.
6 Connect the knot assemblies to ear

wires by their loops.
62
I
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
7 Bend a 3-inch (7.6 cm) piece of wire
at its center, so that it’s shaped like
9 For the crosspiece, you’ll need a
61/2-inch (16.5 cm) piece of wire.
For the side dangles, cut a
2-inch (5.1 cm) piece of wire and
a U. Thread this wire through the oval loop Use a permanent marker to mark the make a small loop at one end of it. (If you
on one of the knot components. Insert center of the wire. Make a spiral until you wish, you may substitute manufactured
both ends of the wire through a dichroic are 14 inch (0.6 cm) from the center mark. head pins.) Use needle-nose pliers to bend
bead. Trim each end of the wire so that it this loop 90 degrees. Thread a silver
Thread the crosspiece through
extends no more than % inch (0.95 cm) saucer bead, a dichroic bead, and another
the lower loop of the knot
from the bottom of the bead. Shape the silver saucer bead onto the pin. Make a
assembly. Make another spiral at the
ends of the wire into a pair of small, side- U-shaped bend % inch (1.0 cm) away
other end. If necessary, use needle-nose
by-side loops that are perpendicular to the from the last bead. Thread the wire
pliers to pinch the lower loop on the
large loop above the bead. Repeat for the through one of the crosspiece spirals and
knot assembly so that the crosspiece
other earring. then close it with a wrapped loop, making
rests above, not beside, the wire holding
sure the pendant swings freely. Repeat
For the center dangle, make a spiral the center pendant.
this step for the other dangle.
with a 4-inch (10.2 cm) piece of
Repeat steps 9 and 10 for the
wire, stopping when there’s just Vi inch
other earring.
(1.3 cm) of wire left. Grasp the end of it
and make a small loop in the direction
opposite the spiral at the other end.
Open the loop and thread it through the
pair of side-by-side loops you created
^ in step 7. Close the loop. Repeat for the
other earring.
This designer used
bold glass beads and
branching links to
create an unusual
geometric piece with
lean, high-tech style.
Despite the complex
result, the necklace is
actually quite simple
to make.
isi.
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Odyssey tc
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Necklace
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Ellen Gerritse, Designer <9
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MATERIALS
UI
INSTRUCTIONS
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20 black pyramid-style stone beads, You will make three different strands. The fifth eye pin has the same beads as >
6 mm diameter For the first strand, place the follow¬ the first eye pin. For the sixth one, add a cc
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57 sterling silver tube beads, 6 mm ing, in order, on an eye pin: a second eye black glass bead, a silver tube bead, and a
diameter pin, followed by a black pyramid bead, a crimp. Hammer and file as before. Repeat 0
silver tube bead, and a crimp bead. the pattern, alternating white, red, and a
57 sterling silver crimp beads, 1.3 mm
Hammer the end of the first eye pin to black glass beads on the even-numbered
s
diameter UI
flatten it, then file the rough ends. eye pins, until you have strung 19 eye pins h
57 matte-gray Japanese tube beads, Z
together. As in the first strand, the 19th eye
3 mm diameter On the second eye pin, slip a third 0
pin has no eye pin added onto it; instead, 0
6 assorted white glass beads, 15 mm eye pin, followed by three gray tube
add only three gray tube beads, a silver
maximum diameter beads, a silver tube bead, and a crimp
tube bead, and a crimp bead. Finish the
bead. As before, flatten and file the end
6 assorted red glass beads, 15 mm end of the 19th eye pin with a loop.
maximum diameter of the second eye pin.
The third strand differs from the
6 assorted black glass beads, 15 mm On the third eye pin, repeat what
others only in its bead pattern. On
maximum diameter you did with the first eye pin. With
the first eye pin and all subsequent odd-
the fourth eye pin, repeat what you did
1 57 sterling silver eye pins, VA inches numbered ones, add a second eye pin, then
(3.8 cm) long with the second eye pin. Keep alternating
a black pyramid bead, a silver tube bead,
bead patterns until you’ve used 19 eye
2 medium sterling silver jump rings and a crimp bead. Hammer and file the first
pins. Don’t add an eye pin to the 19th eye
1 sterling silver clasp and hook eye pin. As in the second strand, the even-
pin, only a black pyramid bead, a silver
numbered eye pins get an additional eye
tube bead, and a crimp bead. Finish the
pin, a glass bead, a silver tube bead, and
TOOLS end of the last eye pin with a loop.
Hammer and block 4 For the second strand, work in the

same manner as the first strand, but
a crimp bead added to them, but the color
pattern changes to red, then black, then
white, and repeats as before, until you have
with a different bead pattern. On the first strung 19 eye pins together. As in the first
FINISHED LENGTH
eye pin, add a second eye pin, then three strand, the 19th eye pin gets no eye pin
16 inches (40.6 cm) gray tube beads, a silver tube bead, and a added onto it, only a black pyramid bead,
crimp bead. Hammer and file as before. On a silver tube bead, and a crimp bead.
the second eye pin, add the third eye pin, a As before, the end of the 19th eye pin is
white glass bead, a silver tube bead, and a finished with a loop.
crimp bead. Hammer and file the end. On
Open the first and last loops on all
the third eye pin, repeat what you added to
three strands. Attach all the first
the first eye pin in this strand. On the
loops to one jump ring, and all the last
fourth, add a red glass bead, a silver tube
loops to another. Attach one half of the
bead, and a crimp. Again, hammer and file.
clasp to each jump ring.
OD3
Designer Elizabeth Larsen evokes
an exotic sea creature with this
high-contrast necklace. Her elegant
method of wrapping snow jade beads
',.- iv'C'' ■''•■■ '
with tendrils of black, spiraled wire
iiv i. V. '."^.'-^ofe'- i' ■'• ■ makes a stunning piece.
:"S: ••'■’!•
JEWELRY
WIRE
Anemone Choker
&
BEAD
Elizabeth Larsen, Designer
CONTEMPORARY
148 round white jade beads, 6 mm

diameter
Using the 20-gauge silver wire and
the knitting needle, make 274 jump
3 To attach the beads to the chain,
start at one end of the chain. Open
84 round white jade beads, 8 mm rings. Link the jump rings two by two to a jump ring in the first pair, slip on two
diameter make a chain 15 inches (38.1 cm) long. 6-mm wire-wrapped beads by their loops,
Attach each half of the clasp to either end and close the jump ring. Open the other
36 round white jade beads, 10 mm
diameter with jump rings. Set the chain aside. jump ring from the same pair, attach it to
the same loops of the wrapped beads, and
20-gauge round sterling silver wire, Cut a piece of black wire 6 inches
close it. Repeat for all the pairs of jump
12 feet (3.7 m) long, for the jump (15.2 cm) long. Using round-nose
rings rings, first attaching half the 6-mm beads,
pliers, form a loop at one end. Add a white
then half the 8-mm beads. Attach all the
24-gauge round black wire, 134 feet jade bead to the wire, then form a second
10-mm beads, then the remainder of the
(40.8 m) long, for the wrapped loop. Hold this second loop with a pair of
bead loops 8-mm ones, and finally, the rest of the
flat-nose or needle-nose pliers and loosely
6-mm beads.
1 fancy “wave”-style clasp spiral the remaining wire around the bead
with your free hand. Fasten the wire
Hypo cement adhesive for nonporous
surfaces around the base of the first loop with one
full wrap, then cut off any extra wire. Use FIGURE 1
needle-nose pliers to secure the end of the

TOOLS
wire snugly around the base of the loop
Knitting needle, 2.75 mm (size 2 U.S.) and secure it with a dab of glue. Figure 1
shows the finished element. Repeat for
each bead. Depending on the bead’s
FINISHED LENGTH
diameter, you may need more or less than
17 inches (43.2 cm)
6 inches (15.2 cm) of wire for each.
67
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
These delicate accessories

feature tiny turquoise facets that
shimmer on twisted silver wire.
68
JEWELRY
Turquoise Twists
WIRE
Necklace and
&
BEAD
Earrings
CONTEMPORARY
Marinda Stewart, Designer
MATERIALS FOR THE INSTRUCTIONS

N EC KLAC E
120 turquoise faceted glass beads,

Thread all the beads onto the wire
in random order. Wrap one end of
3 Wrap the neck ring tightly without
beads for 14 to % inch (0.6 to
4 mm and 6 mm diameter
the wire tightly onto the neck ring for 1 cm). You should have used most of
26-gauge silver-tone wire, 10 yards
1/2 inch (1.3 cm).
(9.1 m) long
With a permanent marker, make FIGURE 1
1 silver neck ring
a mark 20 inches (50.8 cm) from
where the wire comes off the neck ring.
Fold this section of wire in half and slide
the first bead into the fold. “Capture” it
by twisting the wires together for approxi¬
mately Vi inch (1.3 cm). Slide the next
bead VA inches (3.8 cm) away from the
base of the first twist and capture the
bead by twisting the wire halves together
for about % inch (1.9 cm). Bring the next
loose bead to the base of the last twist,
create another twist, and create a
“branch” there, as shown in figure 1.
Working in turn with each loose bead on
the untwisted wire, randomly twist beaded
branches with two or three arms on each
until you’ve used six or seven beads.
JEWELRY
Turquoise Twists
Necklace and i
I
Earrings t
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WIRE
the 20 inches of wire that you had :\
marked in step 2.
4 Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make a

&
total of 18 branches. End with a

BEAD
y2-inch (1.3 cm) wrap as at the beginning

of the ring. Trim any excess wire.
5 Arrange the arms so all the beads

CONTEMPORARY
point down. If necessary, carefully

slide the branches along the neck wire to
center them.

EARRINGS
MAKE 2.
42 turquoise faceted glass beads,
4 and 6 mm diameter H Cut a piece of wire 24 inches (61 cm)
26-gauge silver-colored wire, I long. String 19 beads of both sizes
48 inches (1.2 m) long randomly on it and knot the ends so the
2 ear wires beads stay on. As with the necklace, twist

the wire, with beads captured in it, into a
pair of opposed branches.
Cut off the knots at the ends of the

wires. Fold the branches together in
the middle and twist. Thread a 6-mm and
a pair of 4-mm beads onto this twisted
wire. Attach an ear wire to the earring
using a wrapped-loop finish. Trim any
excess wire.
70
JEWELRY
Quatrefoil
WIRE
Eni Oken, Designer
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Pearl, crystal, and rhinestone
beads are transformed into
a four-petaled focal point in
these earrings. Sea-blue
briolette dangles complete
the delicate design.
I Quatrefoil Earrings
INSTRUCTIONS
MAKE 2.
I
Form the dangle chains: cut three
3-inch (7.6 cm) lengths of wire. Slip
9 Pass the wire behind the loop and
slip on a small pearl, a rose-montee,
one end of a wire on a y2-inch (1.3 cm) and another pearl. Bring the wire across
briolette, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) tail. the quatrefoil (to the 6 o’clock position)
Bring both wires together and wrap the and wrap it firmly around the shank of
shorter end around the longer one. Trim the loop that holds the dangle. Trim
the short end with a flush cutter. the wire closely.
Form a small loop with the round- Cut a 6-inch (15.2 cm) length of
nose pliers on the longer end of wire. Slip it onto the rose-montee
the wire, as close as possible to the and add a pearl to each side. Attach it to
previous wrap. Wrap the wire on top of the quatrefoil by wrapping it once onto the
the previous wrap. Trim the wire very right side, between the first and second
closely with the cutter. beads, and once on the left side, between
the third and fourth beads.
Repeat steps 1 and 2, using two
of the %-inch (1 cm) briolettes. Using round-nose pliers, wrap a
MATERIALS
loop on each side, slipping a dangle
Form a quatrefoil: cut a 9-inch
4 sea-green faceted briolettes, made in step 3 into each loop. Trim the
% inch (1 cm) long* (22.9 cm) length of wire. Slip four
excess wire.
faceted round beads onto the wire and
2 sea-green faceted briolettes,
form a circle, twisting the wires together, Using flat-nose pliers, open the
1/2 inch (1.3 cm) long*
with a 2-inch (5 cm) tail on one side. loop on the ear wire. Slip the
8 round faceted green crystal beads,
earring on it and close the loop.
5 mm diameter Bring the longer end of the wire
between the first and second bead
8 pearls, 2 mm diameter
and wrap it once around that part of
2 lavender rose-montees (mounted the wire that is holding the four beads in
rhinestones), 5 mm diameter
their circle shape; the first bead is now
26-gauge dead-soft sterling silver wire, framed by wire.
4 feet (1.2 m) long
2 sterling silver lever-back ear wires

6 Use round-nose pliers to wrap the
short end of the wire into a wrapped
* Briolettes are also called flat pears. loop, which is at the 12 o’clock position.
7 Repeat step 5 between the second

and third beads. Create a wrapped
loop to hold a y2-inch (1.3 cm) briolette
dangle here. Figure 1 shows what your
work should look like.
Repeat step 5 for the third and

fourth beads. The wire has gone all
the way around the circle of beads and is
now back at the top loop.
a E W E L. R Y
Arabesque
Necklace and
WIRE
Earrings
&
BEAO
Susan Campanlinij Designer
CONTEMPORARY
Small companion beads in
black and silver complement
the pattern of these exotic
lampworked beads. These
beaded
elements, paired
with jig-formed
wire links, create
a design with
Eastern flourishes.
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UI For beaded elements in necklace -4 To make each bead loop link, slip
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and earrings I beads on an eye pin in the following
0 26 white luster seed beads, size 11 order: a white seed bead, a black round,
0 a silver spacer, a black rondelle, and a
26 black glass rounds, 4 mm diameter
lampgiass bead (if the glass bead has a
26 silver-colored metal spacers, 4 mm hole so large that it slips around on the
diameter
pin, try putting a seed bead inside it
26 black glass rondelles, 6 mm diameter before continuing), a black rondelle, a
13 black-and-white dotted lampgiass silver spacer, a black round, and a white

beads, 8 x 12 mm seed bead. Finish the link with a loop.
Repeat to make a total of 11 beaded links
2
18-gauge silver wire, 85 inches (2.2 m)
long for the jig-formed links To fabricate a jig-formed link, place
16-gauge silver wire, 18 inches the pegs in the jig as shown in

(45,7 cm) long, for the clasp figure 1. Slip one end of the 18-gauge
13 silver eye pins wire into the hole in the jig (marked
with an X in the figure), then wind the
2 surgical steel or silver French
working end of the wire around the pegs
ear wires
in the order and direction shown. Use
the knitting needle to ease the finished
TOOLS
element off each peg without distorting
Wire jig with 8 pegs the wire’s shape. Cut any extra wire off
either end of the link; use round-nose
Knitting needle, any size
pliers to completely close the outermost
2 wood blocks, each 2x2 inches
(#8 and #1 in the figure) loops at both
(5x5 cm)
ends. To flatten the element, place it on
a wood block and strike it once with
FINISHED LENGTH the second block. Make a total of nine
Necklace: 23 inches (58.4 cm) jig-formed links.

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looped ends of four jig-formed ones,
Make the hook and clasp from
16-gauge wire. For the clasp, make
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alternating them so that the chain begins another wire element by following the 0
and ends with beaded elements. Repeat, directions in step 2. Fashion the hook in a 0
so that you finish with two short chains, similar way, but make one of its outermost
each composed of nine links. loops longer by moving the appropriate
peg out by two more holes. Squeeze the
Link the two chains together by
long loop to elongate and narrow it, then
attaching an outermost loop from
bend it with pliers to form a hook.
one end of each of them into an outermost
loop of the remaining jig-formed link,
which will serve as the top element of the
6 For earrings, make a pair of bead
loop links as described in
necklace’s pendant. Hang the remaining step 1, then attach them to ear wires.
bead loop link from the opposite loop.
Make a smaller wire dangle by wrapping
the 18-gauge wire around only the first
three pegs of the jig. Remove it carefully,
then cut and flatten it as you did for the
jig-formed links; hang the dangle from the
free end of the bead loop link.
Dynamic silver coils
hold a row of tiny
faceted beads in this
wonderfully simple
bangle that recalls the
ankle bracelets of India.
.JEWELRY
Marie Lee Carter, Designer
Rajah Bang
WIRE
S:
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
10 faceted round beads, 4 mm Note: Makes one bracelet Wrap the 20-gauge wire over the
diameter* * 22-gauge wire. At the section with
Straighten the 14-gauge wire by
14-gauge sterling silver wire, 8 inches the beads, make two wraps between
gently pulling it through plastic-coated
, (20.3 cm) long, for the bracelet’s each bead, checking your work for
pliers. Use a ball-peen hammer to flatten
armature uniformity. Finish as you did in step 2.
each end of the wire (three or four taps
22-gauge sterling silver wire, 80 inches should do it). Make a loop at each end Create the hook of the clasp by
(2 m) long, for the wrap
with round-nose pliers. Bend them back prying open a loop on one end of
20-gauge sterling silver wire, 75 inches a bit, to center them over the straight part the bangle with round-nose pliers. Grasp
(1.9 m) long, for the wrap of the wire. Mark the center of the wire the hook with flat-nose pliers and turn
* The holes must be large enough to with a permanent marker, then make a it 90 degrees. Carefully file any rough
accommodate 22-gauge wire. mark 1 inch (2.5 cm) from each side of edges. Slightly taper the tip of the hook.
the center point.
TOOLS
Pliers with plastic-coated jaws

2 Put on eye protection to shield
yourself as you work with the long
With the plastic mallet, tap the
bangle gently (avoiding the beads,
which should face out) against the
pieces of wire. Starting at one loop, wrap mandrel until it has a satisfactory shape.
Ball-peen hammer and block
the 22-gauge wire onto the 14-gauge
Bent chain-nose pliers Make sure that the hook fits into the
wire. When you reach the first mark,
loop that serves as the eye, gently
Plastic mallet thread a bead onto the 22-gauge wire,
twisting either as necessary.
Bracelet mandrel (a baseball bat then hold it there as you make three more
is a fine substitute) wraps. Add another bead and wrap as
before, until you’ve used all the beads;
finish wrapping the rest of the 14-gauge
wire. Snip the end of the 22-gauge wire
and press it into the coils with the bent
chain-nose pliers. File any rough edges.
The deep, iridescent
jewel tones in this
brooch charmingly
capture one of
nature’s prettiest
flying creatures.
Colored wire skillfully
ties together the
overall color scheme.
JEWELRY
WIRE
Beaded
&
BEAD
Dragonfly Brooch
CONTEMPORARY
■■■■■■■■MHWMIllWMWMIllllllllllllllllllllillllll lli'lii
250 assorted seed beads in blues, Note: Use pliers with plastic-coated jaws, FIGURE 1
greens, iridescent, and crystal or wrap metal jaws with duct tape, to
2 faceted iridescent beads, protect the colored wire from scratches.
4 mm diameter
Shape the green wire into the dragon¬
2 round crystal beads, 8 mm diameter fly shape with round-nose pliers,
18-gauge green wire, 20 inches using figure 1 as a template. Start at the

(50.8 cm) long head, making the first bend Vh inches
(3.8 cm) from one end to form the small
22-gauge blue or purple wire,
20 inches (50.8 cm) long V between the eyes. Shape symmetrical
eye loops on either side of the bend,
28-gauge wire in color of your choice,
using round-nose pliers.
56 inches (1.4 m) long
Make the U bend for the tail in the
Small pin back
long end of the wire, 214 inches
Jewelry glue (optional)
(6.4 cm) below the eyes.
Holding the dragonfly body near its

center, make the loop for the top
right wing first, 14 inch (1.3 cm) below
the eyes. Shape the other wings in a
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figure-eight motif. Make the bottom wings 6 Cut 12 inches (30.5 cm) of
28-gauge wire. Anchor one end
8 Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the
remaining three wings.
u slightly longer than the top wings if you
wish. The wingspan should be 2V2 inches
(6.4 cm) when you are finished.
near the base of the first wing by tucking
it into the wire wrapping on the body.
9 Use the rest of the 28-gauge wire
for the final embellishing. Fold the
4 Push the wire’s ends back toward
the center of the body so they clasp
Wrap it once around the base of the wing,
then add the first seed bead. (Spill the
wire into a narrow U shape and position
it under the body, just below the pin back;
seed beads onto a woven dishtowel or
the loose frame a bit tighter, but don’t bring its ends to the front and twist them
other fabric to control them.)
twist them. (You will wrap the body to hold
it tighter in the next step.) Shorten the
ends if necessary. Smooth, torque, and
7 Work back and forth across the
wing, toward the tip, using a snug
firmly together. Thread a 4-mm iridescent
bead onto the pair of wires and push it
down on the twisted wire, against the
flatten the framework with flat-nose piers. figure-eight wrap (i.e., over and under the body. Twist the wires together several
5 Using the blue or purple wire, hold

the pin back against the framework,
frame in an alternating pattern). Add just
enough seed beads to the beading wire
times until you have one strong wire that
stretches to the neck. Add the two crystal
to fill the space each time you wrap, beads onto the twisted wire. They should
a short distance from the head, and wrap
snugging each line of beading against the cover the area where the wings adjoin the
the thorax area from top to bottom. (Keep
one before it. Add beads in rows of related body; if not, add another 4-mm iridescent
the pin back open so that the wire binds
colors, occasionally punctuating the wing bead before adding the crystal ones.
only the spine of the pin back.) Make a
with one or two especially brilliant or
couple of X-shaped wraps where the Wrap the two separate ends of
sparkly beads. The outermost tip of the
wings intersect, to stabilize them, as you I the wire behind the neck of the
wing has two beads sitting atop the frame,
go. Keep the wrapping as neat and flat as dragonfly. Cinch everything together by
with extra wire wraps. If you can, run the
possible. Check often to be sure that the twisting the ends behind the neck. Cut the
tail end of the beading wire back through
pin back can still close. excess wire, leaving inch (1.3 cm) of
one of the beads, then clip any excess.
twisted wire curved and tucked behind
Use your pliers to put a tiny curve in the
larger wires. If you wish, you can control
wire end and press it between the beads.
the position of the embellishment beads
and the wire ends with a small drop or
two of jewelry glue.
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Chandeliers Eni Okeo, Designer

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Beaded tendrils dangle from a larger bead

that’s framed by an unusual herringbone
weave. The result is an airy design—daringly
long yet light as a feather.
JEWELRY
Follies Chandeliers
INSTRUCTIONS
H Make the central dangles. Cut two closed (see figure 1). Trim the ends of the
I pieces of 26-gauge wire 3 inches wires with a flush cutter.
8
WIRE
(7.6 cm) long each. Slip a y2-inch (1.3 cm)

To craft a herringbone weave around
flat pear on each of them and use a
the 10-mm rondelle, cut a piece of
1 -inch (2.5 cm) tail to make wrapped
26-gauge wire IVi feet (76.2 cm) long.
&
bead loops, trimming the tails’ excess.
2 Secure the wire by wrapping it twice

BEAD
With the remaining wire and round- around one of the shanks, near the bead.
nose pliers, form small wrapped Trim the tail. Bring the working wire down
loops as close as possible to the ones you one side of the bead, and clockwise
CONTEMPORARY
just made. Wind the wire on top of the around the shank, from front to back,
previous wrapping; this gives the fine wire positioning the wire as close to the bead
a more substantial appearance. Trim the as possible; do the same on the other side
wires closely. of the bead. This completes one entire
3 Cut two pieces of 26-gauge wire

3 inches (7.6 cm) long. Make two
herringbone weave around the bead.
9 Repeat to complete five full weaves

wrapped loop bead links with a 9-mm around the bead. As you progress,
rondelle on each, catching a !/2-inch snug the wire against the bead’s sides.
(1.3 cm) flat pear dangle at one end of
Weave the top of a sixth herring¬
each of the links. Trim off any extra wire.
MATERIALS bone, but before wrapping the
Make the four side dangles, as you wire on the lower shank, slip one of the
2 deep-red faceted flat pears,* Vi inch
did in steps 1 and 2, using y2-inch smaller-bead dangles onto the wire. Twist
(1.3 cm) diameter
(1.3 cm) flat pears instead. a small loop at the 4 o’clock position. After
2 deep-red faceted rondelles,
weaving the wire around the lower shank,
9 mm diameter Fabricate four smaller dangles
make another small loop at the 8 o’clock
from 4-inch (10.2 cm) lengths of
4 deep-red flat pears,* % inch (cm) position for another dangle. Bring the wire
26-gauge wire. Make four wrapped bead
diameter
to the top shank, wrap it tightly twice
loop links with two 5-mm beads each,
8 deep-red round beads, around it, and trim any extra wire.
catching a dangle from step 4 in one end
5 mm diameter
of each. Trim away any extra wire. Repeat steps 5 through 9 for the
2 deep-red faceted rondelles, other earring.
10 mm diameter Cut a piece of 24-gauge wire
4 inches (10.2 cm) long. Make Attach the ear wires to the empty
26-gauge sterling dead-soft silver
a wrapped loop near one end of it, loops at the ends of the shanks.
wire, 6 feet (1.8 m) long
wrapping as many times as it takes to
24-gauge sterling dead-soft silver create a shank inch (0.6 cm) long. FIGURE 1
wire, 8 inches (20.3 cm) long
(Counting the number of times you wrap
2 sterling silver lever-back ear wires will help you replicate the shank on the
* Flat pears are sometimes called opposite side of the bead.)
briolettes,
Slip a 10-mm rondelle onto the
working end of the wire and make
another V4-inch (0.6 cm) shank with a
wrapped loop on the other end of the
wire, attaching the dangle you made in
step 1 into the loop before you wrap it
Icy Drops
Necklace and
Earrings
Kate Drew-Wilkinson, Designer
I g This designer drapes

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( siiver chain in an
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night out. rny
JEWELRY
MATERIALS FOR THE

NECKLACE
13 tapered faceted crystal beads, 4 mm

diameter
21 round silver spacers, 2 mm diameter

WIRE
1 faceted crystal drop, 13.5 x 9 mm
1 flat silver spacer, 6 mm diameter
1 tapered bell-shaped faceted crystal

&
bead, 6.6 x 6 mm
BEAD
7 flat sliver spacers, 4 mm diameter
5 long tapered faceted crystal beads,

12.5 X 5 mm
CONTEMPORARY
17 silver saucer beads, 4 mm diameter
8 round silver spacers, 2.5 mm

diameter
1 sterling silver melon bead, 6.5 x 2.5 Icy Drops Necklace and Earrings
mm
INSTRUCTIONS
2 faceted crystal drops, 12 x 8 mm
^ With a piece of wire 114 inches (3.2 a 2-mm round spacer, the melon bead,
2 flat silver spacers, 5 mm diameter
I cm) long, make a wrapped bead loop another 2-mm round spacer, a saucer,
link with a 4-mm tapered crystal bead and a 2.5-mm round spacer. Attach the
diameter
threaded between a pair of 2-mm round head pin from the previous step to the
4 faceted crystal rounds, 5 mm second loop.
spacers; before closing the loops, slip the
diameter
2 sterling silver seamless teardrop

last link of one end of the chain on one, and
the clasp on the other. Make another
4 Put the following beads on a short
head pin: a 12 x 8-mm crystal drop,
beads, 8 x 4 mm
wrapped bead loop link for the other end of a 5-mm flat spacer, a 6-mm tapered
2 faceted crystal rounds, 7 mm the chain. The free loop should be larger crystal bead, a 4-mm flat spacer, a 5-mm
diameter than usual, to serve as the eye for the crystal round, a saucer, and a 2.5-mm
20-gauge half-hard wire, 15 inches clasp. round spacer. Make a loop to close the
(38.1 cm) long
2 Put the following beads on the end. Repeat.
1 sterling silver triple long and short
3.1 mm chain,* 15 inches (38.1 cm)
longer head pin: the 13.5 x 9-mm
crystal drop, the 6-mm flat spacer, the
5 Using a piece of wire 1% inches
(4.4 cm) long, make a wrapped
long
bell-shaped crystal bead, a 4-mm flat
bead loop link, attaching the first loop to
1 sterling silver clasp spacer, a long tapered crystal bead, a
the next round link over from the center
1 half-hard sterling silver ball-end head saucer, and a 2.5-mm round spacer.
of the chain; thread the following beads
pin, 20 gauge, 2V2 inches (6.4 cm) long Make a loop on the end.
onto the working wire: a 2-mm round
8 half-hard silver ball-end head pins,
20 gauge, 2 inches (5.1 cm) long
3 Mark the central round link of
the chain. Using a piece of wire
spacer, a seamless teardrop bead,
a 2-mm round spacer, a 4-mm tapered
* Triple long and short chain is composed of 1% inches (4.4 cm) long, make a wrapped crystal bead, and another 2-mm round
rectangular links alternating with three bead loop link, attaching the first loop to spacer. Before closing the wire, attach
linked jump rings. the central link of the chain; thread the the head pin made in the previous step
following beads on the working wire: to the second loop. Repeat, attaching this
FINISHED LENGTH
151/2 inches (39.4 cm)

JEWELRY
pair of links on the opposite side of the
chain, in the next round link over from
the center one.
6 Thread the following beads on a

short head pin: a 7-mm crystal
WIRE
round, a 4-mm flat spacer, a long tapered
crystal bead, a saucer, and a 2-mm
round spacer. Close the end by making
&
a loop. Repeat.
BEAD
Using a piece of wire VA inches (3.2
cm) long, make a wrapped bead
loop link, catching the first loop in the
CONTEMPORARY
next free round link over from the center
of the chain; on the working wire, string
a 4-mm tapered crystal bead between a
pair of 2-mm round spacers. Attach the
MATERIALS FOR THE
head pin from the previous step to the INSTRUCTIONS
EARRINGS
second loop before closing it. Repeat, MAKE 2.
mirroring the placement on the other side.
8 String the following beads on a

short head pin: a 6-mm tapered
diameter

-1 Set aside six spacers and two of the
I 4-mm beads. Divide the rest of the
diameter beads into two identical sets.
crystal bead, a 4-mm flat spacer, a 7-mm
crystal round, a 5-mm crystal round, a
2 faceted crystal rounds, 8 mm
2 long tapered faceted crystal beads,

2 Cut three pieces of chain, ranging
their length from Vi to % inch (1.3
saucer, a 4-mm tapered crystal bead,
12x8 mm to 2.2 cm) long. Use three of the head
another saucer, and a 2.5-mm round
spacer. Make a loop in the end. Repeat. 2 faceted crystal drops, 12.5 x 5 mm pins and one set of beads to make the trio
of dangles, stringing the larger crystals
30 silver spacers, various sizes and
9 Repeat step 7. shapes
Silver chain, 6 inches (15.2 cm) long

closer to the balled tip of each head pin,
and stringing random numbers of spacers
-4 On a head pin, thread the between each crystal. Make a wrapped
I following beads: a saucer, a long 6 half-hard ball-tipped head pins, loop at the open end of each head pin,
20-gauge, each 2 inches (5.1 cm)
I tapered crystal bead, another saucer,

a 4-mm tapered crystal bead, another
saucer, and a 2-mm round spacer.
long
20-gauge half-hard wire, 3 inches

slipping one end of a segment of chain
onto the loop before closing it.
3 Cut a piece of wire Vh inches

Make a wrapped bead loop to attach it (7.6 cm) long
(3.8 cm) long. Make a wrapped
to the next free round link on the chain. 2 silver ear wires
bead loop link, slipping all three of the
Repeat, attaching this dangle so it mirrors
free ends of the chain segments from the
the placement of the previous one.
previous step onto the loop before closing
it. Randomly string three of the spacers
and one of the crystals you set aside in
step 1 onto the wire. Before closing the
other end, slip an ear wire onto the loop.
i
I
If you get starry-eyed over mystical
dichroic-blue beads, you’ll love
making this adjustable bracelet.
Tiny Bali spacer beads perfectly
echo the wire’s coil pattern.
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Armband
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Hanni Yothers, Designer oS
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MATERIALS INSTRUCTIONS a
2 lampworked glass beads, 12x11 mm >

Note: The bracelet shown here has a (1.3 cm) coil, 12x11 -mm bead, spacer, s
5 lampworked glass beads, 7x11 mm 5y2-inch (14 cm) circumference. 7 X 11-mm bead, y2-inch (1.3 cm) coil, <
7x11 -mm bead, spacer, 5 x 9-mm bead,
cc
3 lampworked glass beads, 5 x 9 mm Straighten the length of 12-gauge 0
diameter and a y4-inch (0.6 cm) coil. CL
5 Bali silver spacer beads, 1 x 6 mm

diameter
wire by working it gently with your
fingers or pulling a soft cloth down the
length of the wire while holding one end.
5 Trim the 12-gauge wire so that
inches (3.8 cm) extend beyond the
1
m
H
Z
last coil. File the sharp ends of the wire.
12-gauge dead-soft sterling silver wire, Hold the 18-gauge wire tightly 0
10 inches (25.4 cm) long crosswise to the 12-gauge wire,
Grasp the very end of the wire with pliers u
and spiral it in toward the beads until it
18-gauge half-hard sterling silver wire, with a y2-inch (1.3 cm) tail. Coil the
touches the last coil you added to the
24 inches (61 cm) long 18-gauge wire around the heavier wire,
bracelet, making sure that this spiral is on
keeping your turns as tight as possible.
the same plane but facing in the opposite
Pull off the coil, which should be about
TOOLS
direction as the first spiral. The spiral
2y2 inches (6.4 cm) long, and cut it into
Steel wool should be tight up against the end of the
four y2-inch (1.3 cm) sections and two
y4-inch (0.6 cm) coil so that the coil can’t
Cookie sheet y4-inch (0.6 cm) sections.
move onto the spiral.
File one end of the 12-gauge wire,
grasp it with pliers, and wind it
6 Use your fingers to gently bend
the bracelet into a shape that is
loosely around them to make a flat spiral
comfortable to wear on your wrist,
y2 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Try to get the
keeping in mind that the spirals should
curved spiral to touch the flat wire that
be flat against the underside of your wrist.
leads to the bracelet to keep beads from
moving onto the spiral. 7 When you have a comfortable shape,
put the bracelet on a cookie sheet
Slide one of the y4-inch (0.6 cm)
and place it in your oven at 550°F
coils onto the 12-gauge wire and
(287.8°C) for 2 to 2y2 hours; the heat
push it up against the spiral. Add one of
will harden the sterling and make it
the 7 X 11 -mm beads, a spacer, and a
more springy.
5 X 9-mm bead. Add the following
elements, in this order; y2-inch (1.3 cm) 8 Remove the oxidation caused by the
heat by brushing the bracelet with
coil, 7x11 -mm bead, spacer, 12x11 -mm
bead, y2-inch (1.3 cm) coil, 5 x 9-mm steel wool under running water until you
bead, spacer, 7 x 11-mm bead, y2-inch achieve the desired finish.
The dynamic spiral shape and
brightly colored beads of these
earrings are sure to attract
attention at parties, or simply
enhance an upbeat mood.
JEWELRY
WIRE
Festive Spiral
&
BEAO
Earrings
CONTEMPORARY
10 pairs of round or button-shaped MAKE 2
freshwater pearl beads in various !

colors, 4 mm diameter | Note: Match the sizes, shapes, and color bead, and tuck it into the spiral’s loop.
patterns of the beads. Hold the bead in place and wrap the wire
2 pieces of 18-gauge colored wire,
twice around the spiral.
each 672 inches (16.5 cm) long, : Straighten out the 18-gauge wire.
for the armature Make a closed loop at the end of the Add nine more beads, leaving a little
2 pieces of 26-gauge dead-soft gold- ^ wire. Grasp the loop with the widest part bit of spacing between each one. As
filled wire, each 1014 inches (26 cm) | of a pair of chain-nose pliers and, holding you work, make sure that your wrapping
long, for the wrap I your pliers hand stationary, rotate the is tight and that the beads are snug
!
2 gold-tone ear wires wire into a loose spiral shape, leaving against the spiral without distorting its
14 inch (1.3 cm) of the tail end of the shape. Straighten any kinks with chain-
wire remaining. nose pliers. Finish by wrapping the lighter
2 Make another loop in the opposite

direction as the spiral, with the
wire three times tightly around the base of
the spiral’s outer loop. Snip off any extra
wire. When you wrap the second spiral,
remaining tail end of the wire. As you
make a mirror-image earring by working
work, align it with the loop at the spiral’s
on the opposite side and in the opposite
center. Trim any extra length of the wire
direction as the first one.
that’s left.
Attach the gold-tone ear wires to
Secure the 26-gauge wire around
the earrings’ exterior loops.
the center loop in the spiral, slip on a
Large copper-cofored buttons function as
beads in this glamorous, unusual piece. Its
imaginative wire form, embellished with all
manner of copper bits, springs fancifully
into space.
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Leaping Copper
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Collar
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Ellen Gerritse, Designer
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INSTRUCTIONS
0.
MATERIALS
s
7 mother-of-pearl buttons, 1 inch Coil the copper wire 15 times around lU
(2.5 cm) diameter h
the mandrel. Cut the coils apart, into z
7 mother-of-pearl buttons, V/2 inches perfect circles, with flush cutters. On each 0
(3.8 cm) diameter 0
ring, use a permanent marker to mark a
60 round copper spacer beads, 3 mm point opposite that of the cut ends. Set two
diameter rings aside; you’ll use them later to attach
the clasp pieces.
60 copper crimp beads
Line up all the buttons, alternating
32 brown glass beads, 5 mm diameter
large and small side by side; the
32 fancy copper star-and-moon bead
buttons’ edges should just touch each
caps, 8 mm diameter
other. Working from left to right, measure
18-gauge copper wire, 3 yards (2.7 m) the distance between the right hole of the
long
first button and the left hole of the next
Flat-link copper chain, 1 inch (2.5 cm) one. Divide this distance by 2, and mark
long one-half of it on either side of the center
1 copper toggle clasp marks you made in step 1. Use chain-nose
pliers to bend a ring 90 degrees at the
2 copper jump rings
marked points. Use the same pliers to
straighten the wire between them.
TOOLS
Pass the wire “legs” through the two
Bracelet mandrel or dowel at least
holes you measured in step 2. Repeat
2 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter
Hammer and block
FINISHED LENGTH
17y2 inches (44.5 cm)

JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Leaping
Copper Collar
the process until all the buttons are linked beads firmly against the flattened end of the ends of the legs together and slip
together in this way (see figure 1). the wire and close the crimp bead with them through the last buttonhole. Slide a
4 On each leg, push a copper bead,

then a crimp bead, up against the
crimpling pliers. round spacer and a crimp bead all the
way down to the button and crimp as
Cut the copper chain into two parts
buttonhole and use crimping pliers to before. Repeat for the other end. Add a
of equal length. Attach one half of
close the crimp bead. Repeat for all the series of beads as you did in step 4; crimp
the toggle clasp to an end link in a chain
buttons. the bead and flatten and file the wire end.
piece with a copper jump ring; repeat for
Finish the end of each leg by placing the other part of the clasp.
one crimp bead, one brown glass Slip a link from the clasp chain to the
bead, one bead cap, and one copper bead center of one of the two reserved
on it. Hammer the ends of the wire flat to copper rings. Use round-nose pliers to
prevent the beads from falling off, then file form a loop around the chain’s link; the
the ends smooth. Now push the loose legs should cross each other now. Pinch
FIGURE 1
r
JEWELRY
Channel Ring
WIRE
&
Dianne Karg Baron, Designer
BEAD
C O N T E nn P O R A R Y
This dainty
ring can be worn
day in and day out,
with Just about anything;
its classic good looks
are always right.
Beaded Channel Ring
I NSTRUCTIONS
Note: You’ll need enough wire to wrap the Slide the ring onto the mandrel and
mandrel three times at the next-larger apply pressure to even up Its shape.
ring size, plus a bit of extra. You can use Remove the masking tape and set the
some string or a paper strip to find the ring aside.
right length. Using the rouge cloth, clean and
Clean and straighten the square wire straighten the half-round wire.
by pulling it through the rouge cloth. Placing it at one end of the line of beads,
Tightly coil the wire around the narrow end and with the flat part of the wire facing in,
of the mandrel, keeping it perpendicular wrap the wire around the band twice. Trim
to the tool as you go. To enlarge the coil, any extra wire from the inside of the ring,
push it gently down the mandrel, twisting file its tip with a needle file, and press it
the tool as you work; periodically remove flat with flat-nose pliers.
the coil, flip it over, and replace it on the Repeat step 6 on the other end of
mandrel, then continue enlarging it. the line of beads before removing
Increase the diameter of the coil until it’s the masking tape.
one size larger than the ring size you wish
MATERIALS
to make. There should be three revolutions
5 round silver beads, 2 mm diameter of wire all around it.
22-gauge soft square wire, for the

ring’s band (see Note, below)
2 Use a permanent marker to draw
lines where the ends of the wire
22-gauge half-hard half-round wire, crisscross. This line represents the bottom
2 inches (5 cm) long, for the wraps of the ring. Mark another line on the
opposite side of the coil to represent
TOOLS
the top of the ring. Remove the ring from
the mandrel.
Rouge cloth
Wooden ring mandrel

3 Thread the beads onto one of the
wire ends and move them around
Masking tape the coil until they’re positioned at the
wire’s midpoint. Wrap a piece of masking
tape around the beads and shank to hold
the beads in place. Measure and mark two
lines, each ¥\6 inch (0.5 cm) long, on
either side of the bottom line.
4 Using flat-nose pliers, grasp the

shank parallel to one of the new
marks. Bend one of the ends of the wire
90 degrees across the exterior of the
shank, doing so at the mark closest to it,
then wrap the wire around the shank
twice. Trim it on the interior of the shank
and press it tightly against the band, using
flat-nose pliers. Repeat at the other mark
with the other end of the wire.
Chui Necklace
A bright mix
of shapes
and textures
abounds in this
African-inspired creation, which is named after the
Swahili word for “leopard.” The chain, made from hand¬
made jump rings, has just the right visual weight to
complement its spiraled-wire pendants.
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Chui Necklace
MATERIALS
6 brown glass seed beads Note: Adjust the length of the necklace if Use wire cutters to cut 10 pieces of
desired; it takes 6 jump rings, made from 6-inch (15.2 cm), 20-gauge wire.
6 sterling silver saucer-shaped beads,
5 mm diameter 16-gauge wire on a Vi-lnch (0.6 cm) Make 10 spiral head pins (the spiral
dowel, to make 1 inch (2.5 cm) of chain. technique is described on page 19); four
3 vintage red glass spacers, 4 mm thick
full turns should be sufficient. These will
To make a handmade chain, make a
1 lampworked cylinder bead, % inch be used to make beaded pendants.
(1.9 cm) long coil roughly 3 inches (7.6 cm) long on
the dowel with the 16-gauge wire. Thread 1 seed bead, 1 silver saucer,
2 palm-wood bi-cone beads, each
Remove the coil and use wire cutters to 1 red spacer, another saucer, and
Vi X % inch (1.3 X 2.2 cm) long
cut 116 rings from the coil’s length. another seed bead onto a spiral head pin.
2 lampworked cylinder beads, % inch
(1.6 cm) long 2 Using the needle-nose pliers, close
half the rings.
Using round-nose pliers, make a small loop
at the top of this bead that is perpendicular
2 round mother-of-pearl beads, 8 mm to the spiral. Trim any excess wire. Thread
diameter Thread one open ring through two the small loop onto the outermost wrap of
16-gauge dead-soft sterling silver wire, closed ones. another spiral head pin. You may need to
15 feet (4.6 m) long loosen the last wrap a bit so the pendant
Use an open ring to join a closed ring
20-gauge dead-soft sterling silver wire, to one end of the short bit of chain can hang properly from it. Add the %-inch
5 feet (1.5 m) long you made in step 3. Close the open ring. (1.9 cm) cylinder bead to this second spiral
1 sterling silver toggle clasp Repeat this process until you’ve used all head pin. Make a loop at the top of this
but two of your rings. Use the final two bead and trim any excess wire. Attach this
rings to attach your toggle clasp to the jointed pendant to the center link in your
TOOLS
ends of the chain. chain, carefully opening the loop in the
2 pairs of needle-nose pliers with non- same way you would a jump ring.
serrated or plastic-coated jaws
y4-inch (0.6 cm) dowel or similar object

to use as a mandrel
FINISHED LENGTH
20 inches (50.8 cm)

JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAO
CONTEMPORARY
Cut a 6-inch (15.2 cm) piece of
16-gauge wire. Create a large spiral
9 Make and attach two more wavy-wire
pendants, as you did in step 7. If
on one end, turning it three times. Thread necessary, make additional turns to the
the spiral through the second link from the lower spiral so that it’s approximately
center pendant and make another small 114 inches (3.2 cm) long.
spiral at the top, turning this spiral one
Thread one of the smaller cylinder
and a half turns in the direction opposite
beads onto a spiral head pin.
that of the large spiral. To make it more
Make a loop at the top of the bead. Repeat
visually interesting, use your thumb and
to make a second pendant. Attach the small
forefinger to make the straight portion
loops to the chains as before.
of the wire slightly wavy, until this short
pendant is PA inches (4.4 cm) long. Make another pair of wavy-wire
Make another wavy-wire piece for the spirals from 6-inch (15.2 cm) pieces
other side of the center pendant. of 16-gauge wire, turning them each four
times. Attach them as before, closing with
Make two more beaded pendants
a small spiral at the top. These pendants
as described in step 6, using bi¬
should be approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm)
cone beads instead of cylinders. Attach
long. If necessary, make additional turns to
them to the chain, on either side of the
the lower spiral to achieve this length.
wavy wire pendants, skipping a link
between them. Thread one mother-of-pearl bead
onto each of the last two spiral
head pins. Make loops at the tops of the
beads and attach these outermost pendants
to the chain.
97
Since every river-polished
stone has its own shape
and personality, tailor the
way you wrap ich one to
duality
AW*
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Rachel Dow, Designer {£
River Dance eS
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Bracelet a
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5 tumbled river stones, 14 to 16 mm

diameter 1
Lay out the stones in the order you
wish to place them on the bracelet,
3 Determine where to hang the
wrapped stones on the chain; they
H
Z
0
keeping in mind how their colors and shouldn’t be too close to the toggle ends. u
18-gauge dead-soft sterling silver
wire, 12 feet (3.7 m) long shapes relate to each other. Attach the center stone first, hanging it
from a short chain made from three linked
1 sterling silver chain-link bracelet Cut five pieces of wire, each
with toggle, 8 inches (20.3 cm) long jump rings. Stagger the lengths of the
6)4 inches (15.9 cm) long. Leaving
other stones by changing the number of
At least 11 sterling silver jump rings, a tail 1 inch (2.5 cm) long at the top of
jump rings from which they hang.
4 mm diameter the center stone, wrap the long end of
the wire around it. Hold both stone and
wire firmly as you crisscross the wire.
FINISHED LENGTH
Once you’ve finished, wrap the working
7)^ inches (19 cm)
wire twice around the tail, then form a
wrapped loop. Wrap the rest of the stones.
The carved amethyst
beads and golden fringes
of these super-simple
earrings evoke swaying
paper lanterns of
the Orient.
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
Lantern Earrings
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
4 round beads, 14-karat gold filled, MAKE 2.
2.5 mm diameter
8 spacers, 14-karat gold tilled,

I
Cut six segments of chain that range
in length from % to 1 % inches (1.9 to
3 Cut a piece of wire 1 !/2 inches
(3.8 cm) long. Make a wrapped
2.5 mm diameter
4.4 cm). bead loop link with beads in the following
4 turquoise beads, 6 mm diameter
4 spacers, 14-karat gold filled, 4 mm

2 Cut a piece of wire 3 inches
(7.6 cm) long. Fashion it into a
sequence: 2-mm round, 2.5-mm spacer,
4-mm turquoise, 2.5-mm spacer, and
diameter 2-mm round. Trim off the extra wire.
2 carved amethyst oval beads,
10 X 15 mm
wrapped bead loop link, catching one
end of all the pieces of chain in one loop
and stringing beads onto it in the following
4 Attach the two bead links to each
other with a jump ring. Connect the
4 round beads, 14-karat gold filled, sequence; 2.5-mm round, 2.5-mm spacer, ear wire to the shorter bead link.
2 mm diameter 6-mm turquoise, 4-mm spacer, amethyst,
2 turquoise beads, 4 mm diameter 4-mm spacer, 6-mm turquoise, 2.5-mm
spacer, and 2.5-mm round. Cut off any
22-gauge half-hard 14-karat gold-
filled wire, 9 inches (22.9 cm) long extra wire.
14-karat gold-filled 1 mm flat chain,

2 gold jump rings, 5 mm diameter
2 14-karat gold-filled ear wires

You’ll look
perfectly regal
in this knitted
neckpiece. Colored
wire sets off ruby-colorec
beads in this easy-to-knit
design. Prior knitting experience
is essential!
JEWELRY
WIRE
Marinda Stewart, Designer
Cleopatra’s Collar
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Red teardrops,* 3 and 6 mm diameter Note: The designer recommends For the next row, deci, k3, deci, to
knitting in the Continental, rather than make 3 sts.
Red pearls,* 6 mm diameter
American, style.
Matte red faceted beads,* K for 2 rows.
4 mm diameter String 40 inches (1 m) of beads in
BO. Cut all of the extra wire, leaving
random order onto each spool of wire.
Transparent red faceted beads,* 4-inch (10.2 cm) tails.
4 mm diameter Leave the bead-strung wire extended
20 yards (18.3 m) but still attached to Secure each wire end to one half of
Transparent red faceted beads,* the toggle by wrapping it repeatedly
the spools.
6 mm diameter
through the first row of stitches and
Working with the 2 wires tog, CO 3 sts,
Red pyramid beads,* 6 mm diameter through the toggle’s loop. Weave any
leaving a 4-inch (10.2 cm) tail.
2 spools of 28-gauge red craft wire, excess wire through the work; bury the
each with a minimum of 20 yards Rows 1 & 2: K. ends in the stitches.
(18.3 m) of wire
1 toggle clasp
Row 3: Inci, k3, inci, for a total of 3 Contour the necklace to your neck
by compressing the stitches on the
5 sts.
You will need enough beads to string inside edge and stretching those on the
*
Row 4: K. As you work the first st, slide
80 Inches (2 m) of wire. outer edge.
a bead from the first spool into the
first St. For the next st, pull a bead
TOOLS from the second spool. Continue to
Knitting needles, 10 mm (size 15 U.S.) alternate a bead from each spool with
every st.
FINISHED LENGTH K every row until the work measures

19 inches (48.3 cm) long.
25 inches (63.5 cm)
K 1 row without any beads.
Carnelian beads
and gold wire
combine to create
exotic earrings
reminiscent of the wares
of Far Eastern markets.
The designer’s fine
wirework has the
appearance of
filigree.
JEWELRY
Bollywood
Dreams
WIRE
Eni Oken, Designer
&
BEAD
MATERIALS
INSTRUCTIONS
12 round beads, 7 mm diameter MAKE 2.
CONTEMPORARY
2 top-drilled faceted flat pear carnelian
beads,* * y2 inch (1.3 cm) long Cut 6 pieces of 26-gauge wire, each for 74 inch (0.6 cm); trim the tail. Slip a
3 inches (7.6 cm) long. Make eye pins seed bead onto the working wire, making
20 round carnelian seed beads,
with tiny wrapped loops out of each of sure the bead is positioned at the outer¬
3 mm diameter
them, then slip a 7-mm round bead onto most edge of the wire teardrop, and
2 round carnelian beads,
each. Close the open ends with another continue coiling another Tie inch (0.5 cm).
5 mm diameter
miniscule wrapped loop. Cut off any Add another seed bead to the working
26-gauge gold-filled dead-soft wire, excess wire. wire and coil another Te inch (0.5 cm).
9 feet (2.7 m) long, for the wraps
Now slip a seed bead and one of the
Cut the 18-gauge wire in half.
18-gauge gold-filled dead-soft wire, dangles you made in step 1 onto the
Working with one piece, form small
IVi inches (19 cm) long, for the working wire. Continue to wrap the wire
loops at both ends of it. Using the wooden
teardrop-shaped element and add the seed beads and dangles in
dowel and your fingers, form the wire into
2 gold-filled lever-back ear wires this way until you’ve attached them all.
a teardrop shape. Flatten the shape on an
After you finish, if the beads aren’t
* Faceted flat pear beads are sometimes anvil with a mallet or hammer until it’s
called briolettes. symmetricaily spaced on the teardrop,
work hardened.
spread out the coils a bit until they are.
To create the flat-pear dangles at
TOOLS Bring together the two loops of the
the earring’s center, cut a piece of
teardrop element so that one is atop
Wooden dowel or pen, % inch (1.9 cm) 26-gauge wire, 3 inches (7.6 cm) long.
the other, then wrap them together twice
diameter Place a flat pear on it, leaving a tail 1 inch
tightly. Form a small cap by wrapping the
Mallet or hammer (2.5 cm) long on one side; wrap the shorter
shoulders of the teardrop, below the loops,
wire around the longer one several times.
Anvil six more times. On the last wrap, slip the
Trim the short end of the wire. Now use
flat pear dangle onto the working wire,
round-nose pliers to form a small wrapped
then use round-nose pliers to twist a small
loop from the remaining wire, making the
wrapped loop that faces into the center
loop as close as possible to the wrapping
of the teardrop shape. Finish by tightly
you just did and winding some of the
coiling it around the teardrop wire, near
excess wire on top of the existing wrap¬
the cap. Trim any excess wire.
ping. Trim the wire closely.
Using a 3-inch (7.6 cm) length of
To assemble all the elements, cut a
26-gauge wire and a 5-mm bead,
piece of 26-gauge wire 272 feet
make a wrapped bead loop link that
(76.2 cm) long. Leaving a 1-inch-long
connects one of its loop to the two joined
(2.5 cm) tail to help you hold onto it, start
loops above the cap, and the other one
at one of the loops on the teardrop shape
in an ear wire.
and tightly coil the wire to one of the loops
Long, dangling earrings
are the vogue. Fine-
gauge silver wire and
tiny, twinkling glass
beads give these
earrings a cool,
airy style.
JEWELRY
WIRE
Confetti Hoops
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
MAKE 2.
48 gemstone beads in various colors,
3 to 4 mm diameter
Using flush cutters, cut four pieces Use a fingernail or the tip of
of 26-gauge wire, each 514 inches chain-nose pliers to separate the
4 feet (1.2 m) long
(13.3 cm) long. beginning/end wraps of wire on one of the
8 jump rings, 16-gauge sterling silver,
bead-wrapped jump rings, and attach an
10 mm diameter Wrap one piece of 26-gauge wire
ear wire there.
twice around a 10-mm jump ring to
6 jump rings, 18-gauge sterling silver,
6 mm diameter secure it; using chain-nose pliers to grasp Using three 6-mm jump rings, link
the thinner wire will help you get a tight three more bead-wrapped jump rings
2 sterling silver ear wires
wrap. Add a bead to the wire, hold it in sequentially to the one with the ear wire.
place on the outer edge of the 10-mm
jump ring, and wrap the wire tightly
around the jump ring twice, being careful
not to kink the light wire as you work.
Add another bead to the wire and

continue wrapping and adding
beads, working your way around the jump
ring until you’ve attached six evenly
spaced beads to it. Secure the tail of the
wire by wrapping it tightly twice around
the jump ring, close to the point where you
began the wrapping. Cut off any extra wire.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make a

total of four bead-wrapped 10-mm
jump rings.
The chunky millefioh
glass beads on
this necklace evoke
Old World charm.
Wrapped loops of
heavy wire echo the
patterns on the
ornate bead caps.
JEWELRY
WIRE
Venetian Reverie
&
BEAD
Necklace
CONTEMPORARY
18 silver beads, 2.5 mm diameter

I
Cut every third link of the chain to
free a pair of links, until you have
3 Make another wrapped bead loop
link, slipping the free chain link from
9 lampworked glass beads, 16 mm
diameter eight pairs of chain links. the previous step into the loop before
18-gauge half-hard sterling silver wire,

3 feet (91.4 cm) long
2 Using the wire, make a wrapped
bead loop link, attaching one half
closing it. String the link with beads, as
described in step 2, and again add a pair
of the toggle clasp to the loop before of chain links to the second loop before
18-gauge sterling silver chain with 6 x
closing it. String the link with a silver you close it. Trim the remaining wire.
8 mm links, 8 inches (20.3 cm) long
Repeat until you’ve used all the beads.
bead, a bead cap, a glass bead, another
18 silver bead caps, 10 mm diameter
Add the other half of the toggle clasp to
bead cap, and a silver bead. Add a pair of
Large heart-shaped silver toggle clasp the last loop before closing it.
chain links to the second loop before you
close it. Cut off the remaining wire.
FINISHED LENGTH
251/2 inches (64.8 cm)

Like fire personified, this dynamic
pendant explores the entire warm
color range. Be sure to finish it with a
silk ribbon that does it justice.
!
.JEWELRY
WIRE
&
Ronda Kivett, Designer
BEAD
Flame Pendant
CONTEMPORARY
20 red glass seed beads, size 6/0 -4 To create the armature, form the FIGURE 1
1 small tube of matte orange glass

I 18-gauge wire, using figure 1 as a
seed beads, size 11/0 template. At the top of the armature,
make the loop twist sideways, rather
3 red glass tube beads, 14 x 4 mm
than toward the front, so that the pendant
2 red round glass beads, 6 mm will face forward when it hangs from
diameter
the ribbon.
45-55 pink (of various shades) glass
seed beads, size 6/0
2 Cut a piece of 24-gauge wire 1 yard
(91.4 cm) long. To secure it, wrap
18-gauge silver-tone wire, 8V2 inches
one end three or four times around the
(21.6 cm) long, for the armature
lower left corner of the triangular part of
24-gauge red wire, 3 yards (2.7 m) the armature.
long, for the wraps
%-inch (1.9 cm) wide silk ribbon,

3 String one red 6/0 seed bead, one
orange seed bead, and another red
6/0 seed bead onto the 24-gauge wire;
holding the beads along the exterior of
the armature, wrap the lighter wire twice
around the armature to secure them.
This creates a “picot.” Repeat four times,
working from the bottom left corner
of the triangle to the loop at the top
of the armature.
4 Wrap the 24-gauge wire, with no

beads on it, six times around the
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
base of the loop, then continue all along

the loop itself.
7 Use a random selection of beads for
the rest of the triangular shape—but
9 String one 6-mm bead onto the
wire, hold it to the center of the
not the spirals at the pendant’s bottom. As spiral, and secure it to the armature.
Working from the base of the loop
needed to fill in gaps, string short sections Bring the wire back around and through
to the bottom right corner of the
of pink and orange seed beads onto the the bead’s hole again; string six orange
triangle, repeat step 3 to make five picots
remaining 24-gauge wire; wrap it around seed beads, then secure the wire near the
on the armature. Wrap the remaining
a picot or the armature to hold the beads spot where it went into the bead so that
24-gauge \wire around the wire along
in place. When you’re finished, secure the the orange beads form a halo around the
the baseline of the triangular shape,
wire around the form and trim off any outer half of the 6-mm bead. Trim any
then trim any excess.
extra material. excess wire.
Cut another piece of 24-gauge wire,
Cut a piece of 24-gauge wire 15 Using another piece of 24-gauge
1 yard (91.4 cm) long. Securely
inches (38.1 cm) long. Secure one wire 15 inches (38.1 cm) long,
wrap one end of it four times between the
end to one of the spirals at the bottom, bead the other spiral, mirroring the
third and fourth picots you made in step 3.
close to the corner of the triangle. String beading done on the first one.
String one tube bead on the wire, then
an orange seed bead onto the wire, hold
wrap the wire tightly between the second Thread the ribbon on the pendant’s
the bead inside the curve of the spiral, and
and third picots you made in step 5. String loop with half the length on each
wrap the wire around the armature to hold
another tube bead on the wire, then wrap side. Knot it close to either side of the loop
the bead in position. Working toward the
the wire tightly around the center of the to keep it on. As a decorative accent, add
center, repeat to fill the exterior part of the
base of the triangular shape. String the evenly spaced knots along the length of
spiral’s curve with orange beads. Wrap the
last tube bead onto the wire, then wrap the ribbon.
rest of the spiral with the light wire until
the wire tightly in the same place you first
you reach its center.
secured it. Don’t trim the wire.
112
Pearl-Set Ring
JEWELRY
Dianne Karg Baron, Designer
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Using a clever mock-
prong setting, this
delicate ring shows
off a single pearl
bead as if it were a
precious gem.
11
1 pearl, 6 mm diameter ’ H Wrap a piece of masking tape one and

I a half times around the ring mandrel
5 Bind the shank with the half-round
wire, wrapping the entire section
22-gauge soft square wire, 12 inches
(30.5 cm) long, for the band j at one size larger than the desired finished between the two inner marks. Start and
i
size. Mark a vertical line on the tape at the end the wrapping so that the cut ends are
20-gauge half-hard half-round wire, I
point where it overlaps itself. Peel up on the same side of the shank. Press the
6 inches (15.2 cm) long, for the wraps |
i enough of the top layer of tape so that you ends flat with flat-nose pliers.
24-gauge soft wire, 4 inches
(10.2 cm), for attaching the bead
|
can transfer the line onto the bottom layer
of tape as well. Remove the tape from the
6 With the cut ends of the wrapping
to the inside, bend the shank around
ring mandrel and place the tape on a work
the ring mandrel, starting a few sizes
TOOLS surface. Measure and mark the midpoint
smaller than the finished size you desire.
Masking tape | between the two lines, then draw lines
Slide it along the mandrel until it’s one
yi6 inch (0.5 cm) on either side of that.
Wooden ring mandrel | size larger than the desired size. Take it
Using the rouge cloth, clean and off the mandrel and remove the tape from
Rouge cloth
straighten the square wire. Cut it both ends.
exactly in half. Align both pieces of wire
together, tape the ends, and measure and
7 Measure Vs inch (0.3 cm) from each
end and mark across the wires.
mark the midpoint of the bundle. Line up
Bend the wires 45 degrees at these
the midpoint of the tape with the midpoint
marks, using flat-nose pliers, to form
of the wires, then transfer all five lines
the mock prongs.
from the tape to the wire. Remove the
tape from the wires. 8 Measure and mark the midpoint of
the round wire. Feed it through the
At the outer marks, fold each
right-hand opening of one pair of prongs.
wire inward so that their ends meet
String the pearl to the wire’s midpoint.
at the center. If the wires overlap, trim
Position the pearl between the two sets
them flush.
of prongs, then feed the wire through the
Put the wires together, side by side; diagonally opposite prong’s bend.
the ends should be next to each
other on the inside. To create a flat shank
9 Wrap the wire three times around
the bends in the shank. Trim any
four strands wide, tape both ends.
excess wire from inside the ring and press
the end flat against the band.
11 ••.1-
Kate Drew-Wilkinson, L
>
E
J
I
U
U)
lU
E
■■
3
lO
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Fiesta Necklace
and Earrings
NECKLACE
22 red ceramic donut beads, Vi inch

Set aside 7 donut beads, 11 round 4 Using the beads set aside in step 1,
make a bead loop link threaded with
I ceramic beads, 19 spacers, and 20
(1.3 cm) diameter
sterling silver beads. the same beads as in step 2. Before
27 turquoise round ceramic beads,
8 mm diameter 2 Cut the wire into 3-inch (7.6 cm)
pieces. Using one piece of wire,
closing the second loop, attach it to
the sixth donut from the clasp. Repeat,
57 antique copper heishi spacer beads attaching a bead loop link to the next four
make a wrapped bead loop link with a
54 sterling silver round beads, 2.5 mm donuts. Make and attach two more bead
sterling silver bead, a spacer, a round
diameter loop links on the eighth donut.
20-gauge half-hard silver wire, 6 feet

(1.8 m) long
ceramic bead, another spacer, and another
sterling silver bead on it. Slip a donut on a
loop before closing it. Keep the loops large
5 Make a bead loop link threaded with
a sterling silver bead, a spacer, and
4 silver ball-end head pins, 2 inches enough to allow the donut free movement. another sterling silver bead, adding the
(5.1 cm) long
1 pierced silver pendant, 3.5 x 4.5 cm

link threaded with the same beads
silver pendant to one loop; attach the
other loop to the center link hanging on
the eighth donut.
as in step 2, slipping the donut from the
1 silver S-clasp
previous link onto one loop and adding
another donut to the loop at the other end.
6 Thread a turquoise bead, a spacer,
and a sterling silver bead on each
FINISHED LENGTH
Repeat the process until you’ve used all ball-end head pin. Attach one each to the
25y2 inches (64.8 cm) the beads except those set aside in step fifth and eleventh donuts, and the last
1. Slip the ends of the S-clasp onto the two at the ends of the two links on the
free loops at the beginning and end of the eighth donut.
strand, closing the necklace.
EARRINGS
MAKE 2.
20 sterling silver round beads, 2.5 mm
diameter ■A Cut the wire into 3-inch (7.6 cm)
20 copper heishi spacer beads I pieces.
8 red ceramic donut beads,
(1.3 cm) diameter
Vi inch 2 Make two wrapped bead loop links,
threading a sterling silver bead,
6 turquoise ceramic beads, 8 mm three spacers, and another sterling silver
diameter bead on each; slip an ear wire on one loop
end and a donut on the other. Keep one of
20-gauge half-hard silver wire, 2 feet
(61 cm) the loops large enough to allow the donut
free movement.
2 ear wires
link with a sterling silver bead, a
spacer, and another sterling silver bead
threaded on it, attaching one loop to the
donut from the previous step and leaving
the other loop empty.
4 Make a bead loop link like the ones

from step 2 for the necklace. Before
closing the loops, attach a donut to one of
them, then link the other loop to the empty
end of the link from the previous step.
Repeat two more times.
Turquoise nuggets
and bronze-colored
IS knitted-wire
necklace, its
imposing size
:es a stunning
statement as
wearable art.
JEWELRY
Opulence
Necklace
WIRE
Susan I. Jones, Designer
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
17-20 faceted turquoise pebbles, a Place all the beads in a pan and mix Slide off any unused beads. Make
% inch (1.9 cm) diameter I them. Randomly string all the beads an overhand loop in the tails, feed
60 tumbled turquoise nuggets, on the separate wires; it’s not important the wire ends through it, and tighten it.
Vi inch (1.3 cm) diameter to have an equal amount of beads on
Attach one end of the necklace to
each, but the first and last 4 inches
100 turquoise rondelles, 6 mm each piece of the toggle clasp by
diameter (10.2 cm) of beads should be only smaller
slipping the tails through its loop, pulling
ones, so they will be at the back of the
36 round turquoise beads, 8 mm them tight, and twisting the wire five times
finished piece. Don’t cut off the extra wire.
diameter around the base of the clasp. Trim the
Holding both wire ends tog, make wires and hide their raw ends inside a
30 greenish-gold freshwater pearls,
7 mm diameter an overhand loop, leaving a tail nearby bead.
26-gauge gold-tone wire, 30 yards

(27.4 m) long
10 inches (25.4 cm) long, and
CO 2 sts.
4 To shape the necklace, poke the large
nuggets through the knitting so they
26-gauge aqua wire, 30 yards Rows 1-3: K2. all lie on the same side of it. As needed,
(27.4 m) long compress the necklace by hand to give it
Row 4: Inci, k3, feeding beads from
a smooth curve, making it narrower and
1 gold-tone toggle clasp alternating wires as you k in all
longer in places; also gently spread the
rows hereafter.
stitches to make it shorter and wider where
TOOLS Rows 5-7: K3. necessary. If you notice any bare areas, you
Shallow pan or tray Row 8: Inci, k4. can slip a leftover bead onto a short piece
of wire and attach it directly to that spot by
Knitting needles, 10 mm (size 15 U.S.) K every row until the piece measures
twisting it around a stitch and burying the
16 inches (40.6 cm) long.
raw wire ends into a nearby bead.
FINISHED LENGTH In the next row, deci st, k.
2374 inches (59 cm) K the next 3 rows.
From this point on, stop adding beads

as you k. Deci st, k.
K 3 rows.
Instead of BO, remove the knitting

needles and cut the wires
together, leaving a tail 10 inches
(25.4 cm) long.
Here’s a lighthearted,
uncomplicated
bracelet that’s so
easy to fashion you
can make several in
various colors for
party favors—or wear
them all yourself,
gypsy style.
JEWELRY
WIRE
Jellyroll Bracelet
&
BEAD
Andrea L. McLester, Designer
CONTEMPORARY
3 disk-shaped resin beads, % inch

(1.6 cm) diameter
Note; Be aware that the colored coating
on anodized and plated wires is soft and
4 Bend both short ends of the wire, in
the same direction, so they lie flat
can be easily scratched. If you don’t have over the spirals. Fold the spirals together,
3 pieces of 20-gauge anodized wire,
each 14 inches (35.6 cm) long, for the plastic-coated pliers, wrap your with these short wires to the inside. Coil
the jellyroll links regular ones with plastic tape.
3 pieces of 20-gauge anodized wire, To make a jellyroll link, use round- FIGURE 1
each 21/2 inches (6.4 cm) long, for nose pliers to make a 90-degree bend
the wrapped bead loop links in a 14-inch (35.6 cm) length of wire,
2 pieces of 20-gauge anodized wire, 2 inches (5 cm) from one end. Grasp the
each 7 inches (17.8 cm) long, for long end of the wire at the bend so that
the clasp the pliers’ jaws lie parallel to the bent part
of the wire (see figure 1). Keeping the wire
TOOLS near the tip of the pliers’ jaws, make a
spiral until you have 7 inches (17.8 cm) of
y2-inch (1.3 cm) dowel or other
mandrel wire left. The short piece of wire will be
standing straight out from the center of
Round-nose pliers with plastic-coated
the spiral.
jaws
Using the round-nose pliers, bend
FINISHED LENGTH the longer section of wire 90

degrees, 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the end,
8% inches (22.2 cm)
but in the direction opposite that of the
bend you made in step 1.
3 Make another spiral at this end of

the wire, rolling it in the opposite
direction as the first, until the second
roll is Vi inch (1.3 cm) from the first.
1
JEWELRY
WIRE
&
BEAD
CONTEMPORARY
Jellyroll Bracelet
them until they are aligned, one over the
other, forming a double-sided “jellyroH”
8 To make the eye of the clasp, use a
7-inch (17.8 cm) piece of wire.
FIGURE 2
link. See figure 2 for an exploded view of Make a wrapped loop over the dowel,
what the element should look like. Make wrapping the wire twice around it. Thread
wrapped loops on both ends of the wire. a resin bead onto the wire, then make a
wrapped loop on the other end, slipping a
5 Repeat steps 1 through 4 to make

three more jellyroll links. jellyroll link onto the loop before closing it.
9
6 Make a wrapped bead loop link with
a resin bead on a 2y2-inch (6.4 cm)
To make the hook, fold the last piece
of wire double, with one end 2 inches
piece of wire. Before closing each loop, (5.1 cm) longer than the other. Do not trim
thread a jellyroll link on it. Cut off any the ends. Use your thumb to fold the bent
excess wire. Repeat at the other end. end of the wire over the dowel. Grasp the
7 Connect the two sections with a

wrapped bead loop link.
folded end of the wire with round-nose
pliers and make a loose spiral.
H Slip the free end of the wire into

I the loop of the last jellyroll link,
then make an extra-long wrapped loop out
of the rest of the wire.
Key to Wire Gauges :
111
The projects in this book were made using wire manufactured in the United States, whose
standards for wire diameters differ from those in the British system. AWG is the acronym w
for American, or Brown & Sharpe, wire gauge sizes and their equivalent rounded metric 5
measurements. SWG is the acronym for the British Standard, or Imperial, system in the 5
UK. Refer to the chart below if you use SWG wire. Only part of the full range of wire eg
gauges that are available from jewelry suppliers is included here.
BEAD
AWG IN. AWG MM Gauge SWG in, SWG mm
CONTEMPORARY
0.204 5,18 4 0,232 5,89
0,182 4.62 5 0.212 5.38
0.162 4,12 6 0,192 4.88
0.144 3,66 7 0.176 4,47
0.129 3,28 8 0.160 4.06
0.114 2.90 9 0,144 3,66
0.102 2,59 10 0,128 3,25
0.091 2,31 11 0,116 2.95
0.081 2,06 12 0.104 2.64
0.072 1,83 13 0.092 2,34
0.064 1.63 14 0.080 2.03
0.057 1,45 15 0.072 1,83
0.051 1.30 16 0.064 1,63
0,045 1,14 17 0,056 1.42
0.040 1.02 18 0,048 1,22
0,036 0,914 19 0.040 1,02
0,032 0.813 20 0.036 0.914
0.029 0,737 21 0.032 0,813
0.025 0.635 22 0,028 0.711
0.023 0.584 23 0.024 0.610
0,020 0.508 24 0,022 0,559
0,018 0,457 25 0,020 0.508
0.016 0,406 26 0,018 0,457
Ruby Wave Bracelet, page 37

JEWELRY
About the Desianers

Dianne Karg Baron is a Canadian metal- Marie Lee Carter began learning her craft Ellen Gerritse taught fine art in Europe for
WIRE
smith who has created jewelry using in a metalsmithing class at the Fashion a long time but now has the opportunity to
precious metal wire and gemstones for Institute of Technology in New York. She travel the world extensively. After a recent
10 years. She graduated from Ryerson used a range of skills that allowed her move to the United States, she received
&
University with a bachelor of applied arts to work at home without the chemicals an MFA in jewelry from the Glassell School of
BEAD
(interior design) in 1988 and completed and fumes of solder, pickle, and buffing Art in Houston, Texas. The greatest
the Jewellery Techniques Certificate at compounds. In each of her unique pieces, influences on her work have come from
George Brown College in Toronto, Ontario, Marie aims to tell a short story in precious traveling in Asia. Being constantly on the
CONTEMPORARY
where she now teaches. Dianne has also metal and stone. She can be contacted at move, with a limited knowledge of local
taught at workshops in Canada and the marielcarter@verizon.net. suppliers, she finds herself drawn to create
United States and is a member of the objects from simple, accessible materials
Rachel M. Dow specializes in fabricated
Metal Arts Guild of Canada, the Ontario and the few tools close at hand. She finds
sterling silver, metal clay, and found object
Crafts Council, and the International Guild this way of working challenging to her
jewelry. She has a BA in photography and
of Wire Jewelry Artists. Her work has been way of thinking.
an MA in art education from California
featured in craft magazines, including
State University of Northridge. When she’s Joanna Gollberg is a studio artist working
Lapidary Journal, and books. She sells
not banging on metal, she runs around with in Asheville, North Carolina. She graduated
her work at galleries and craft shows in
her three-year-old son and works with from the Fashion Institute of Technology
Canada, as well as through her website,
fiber. Rachel’s work is shown in selected with a degree in jewelry design, and
www.wrapturewirejewellery.on.ca. She
galleries and studios. She lives in Rolla, exhibits her work at craft fairs and galleries
lives in Toronto with her husband and kids.
Missouri, and maintains a website at throughout the United States. Joanna has
Susan Campanini is crazy about beads. www.rmddesigns.com. designed projects for Fabulous Jewelry
This retired academic began making from Found Objects (Lark Books, 2005),
Kate Drew-Wilkinson was born and raised
earrings 15 years ago as gifts for family and she is the author of two books. Making
in England and began her professional life
members, but there just weren’t enough Metal Jewelry (Lark Books, 2003) and
as an actress. She was always fascinated
earlobes there, so she started selling her Creative Metal Crafts (Lark Books, 2004).
by the history and magic of beads, however,
creations at local art shows. She loves Joanna has also taught workshops at John
and during her travels in many countries,
making one-of-a-kind pieces incorporating C. Campbell Folk School and the Penland
she studied their use in jewelry. By 1990
all sorts of materials—especially vintage School of Crafts.
Kate had discovered the joy of lampworking.
beads and unusual handmade items—and
She has written two books on bead jewelry, Diane Gueizow is a wife, mom, special
includes wire elements created on a jig
48 articles for Lapidary Journal, and she education teacher, empty-nester, art
by her husband. Her business. Beaded
also makes instructional films. Kate teaches educator, and a lady who likes to keep
Jewelry by Susan, located in Champaign-
bead jewelry design and lampworked bead busy. Making jewelry serves as therapy
Urbana, Illinois, has a huge inventory of
making in Europe. in the fast-paced world in which she lives
more than a thousand unique earrings
because it slows her down and allows her
and hundreds of necklaces ... with Connie Fox teaches wire jewelry and cold
to mellow out and listen to what her soul
more to come! She can be reached at connections. She and her husband, Jim,
wants her to express. For Diane, working
campanin@uiuc.edu and sells online operate Jatayu, an Internet wire jewelry
with sterling silver wire and beads is like
through http://www.artisanstreet.com. business. A nasty allergy to flowers led
working with little treasures collected
Connie to explore the wondrous world of
throughout her life, or akin to keeping a
wire jewelry; ask her sometime and she’ll
journal; she reveals her “life’s diary” through
tell you all about it. She may be contacted
her jewelry. And, boy, there’s a lot to tell! She
through her website, www.conniefox.com.
can be reached at artandmind@yahoo.com.
Michaelanne Hall is a self-taught artist Elizabeth Larsen works as a biologist Carolyn Skei is a mixed-media artist >
living in Asheville, North Carolina. She sells for Snohomish County in Washington but who has many years of experience with ^
her jewelry in a gallery there. Her e-mail started beading as a hobby four years ago polymer clay jewelry making, fiber arts, w
address is MichaelanneOrig@aol.com. to challenge her creative side. She partic¬ papermaking, bookbinding, and experi- ^
m
ularly enjoys working with sterling silver mental photography. An admitted “work- t
syndee holt is a polymer clay designer
wire and semiprecious stones. She lives in shop junkie,” she loves both to teach and u
and professional photographer, as well
Snohomish with her husband, Mitch, her to learn new techniques. In 2000 Carolyn K
as a band mom and a kendo mom. She MM
stepson, Nico, and their three dogs, Misha, relocated from California to her native g
writes for many national and international
Rocky, and Cordelia. Her e-mail address is Texas. She has taught for the Craft Guild
magazines and teaches throughout the
elarsen2003@yahoo.com. of Dallas, the Brazosport Center for the
world. Her website is http://synspage.com.
BEAD
Arts and Sciences, and the North Texas
Andrea L. McLester has had the pleasure,
Susan I. Jones creates over-the-top bead Polymer Clay Guild. A certified Texas
as a theatrical designer and costumer, of
and fiber art in her studio, and there is
Master Gardener, she draws much of
creating jewelry for some of the world’s
little that escapes her zeal to embellish.
CONTEMPORARY
her inspiration from the ecosystem in her
legendary ballerinas and opera singers.
She has a firm belief that chocolate should
own backyard. She may be reached at
She currently resides in Rockport, Texas,
be on every materials list. Susan lives with
ctexasskei@comcast.net.
where she is represented by The Gallery
her husband. Skip, and two cats in artistic
of Rockport. Marinda Stewart is a designer, writer,
chaos in Chandler, Arizona. Her e-mail
and teacher who resides in Santa Maria,
address is susanijones@hotmail.com. Nathalie Mornu definitely doesn’t hold
California. Her accomplishments include
with the theory that less is more where
Ronda Kivett is a self-taught mixed-media a line of patterns for clothing and
shiny things are concerned. She has
artist who lives in Prescott Valley, Arizona. accessories, many magazine and book
designed projects for other Lark books,
Her creativity thrives on experimenting contributions, television appearances,
includingDecorating Your First Apartment
with many different materials, but her national ads, and several embellishment
(2002), Hip Handbags (2005), Exquisite
preferred medium has always been beads. books. Her work has appeared in museum
Embellishments for Your Clothes (2006),
Ronda’s work has appeared in exhibitions and gallery exhibitions and is in the
and Creative Stitching on Paper {2006).
and galleries across the United States, as collections of several corporations and
well as in books and magazines. Visit her Eni Oken’s jewelry embraces an eclectic celebrities. She currently works with
website at www.kivett-studio.com. mix of techniques and precious materials. corporate clients, designing and consulting
Fantasy art, sculpture, architecture, and on end uses for their products. Her web¬
Mami Laher is a jewelry designer and
lace-making techniques all come together site is at www.marindastewart.com.
artist who loves, more than anything,
in her intricate and ornamental designs.
searching for originality and uniqueness Hanni Yothers grew up on Lake Huron in
Originally from Brazil, Eni now lives in
in creative expression. She prides herself Michigan’s beautiful Upper Peninsula,
Los Angeles, where she explores new
on making bead and wire jewelry with no where huge old trees, wildlife, and
techniques and creates. She also writes
jig, only basic tools. She enjoys painting incredible views surrounded her childhood
and teaches about art and jewelry making.
with watercolors and has an affinity for home and instilled in her a love of all
You can see more of Eni’s work and her
flowers, abstract as well as real. She can things natural. When she discovered
lessons at www.enioken.com.
also often be found ice-skating. Mami stones and metal and realized that these
originally hails from Japan but now Chris Orcutt has worked as a jeweler pieces of the earth could be made into
resides in Los Angeles. View a sampling since 1985, fabricating one-of-a-kind beautiful jewelry, her career path was set.
of her jewelry, glass beads, and painfings jewelry by hand. She loves her current job She has designed, created, and sold her
on her website at www.mamibeads.com. as a goldsmith, jewelry designer, and jewelry worldwide for more than 12 years,
salesperson at the Metal Waterfall Gallery and lives with her husband, five golden
and Christine Ann Jewelry in downtown retrievers, two red-tail hawks, and
Leavenworth, Washington. Christine also assorted chickens. View her jewelry on
sells her unique pieces through an online the Internet at www.heyjewelry.com.
auction, which can be accessed at
www.christineannjewelry.com.
JEWEURV 1
Acknowledgments
This book wouldn’t have seen the light of day without the talented designers who shared
WIRE
their fabulous work and creative energy with us. They were a pleasure to work with, and
we’re grateful for their great ideas and flexibility.
We’re indebted to Chevron Trading Post & Bead Company, for graciously lending us many
&
of the lovely beads and tools that illustrate the Basics section of this book. Stop by their
BEAD
well-stocked store if you’re ever in Asheville, North Carolina, or visit their website at
www.chevronbeads.com.
We also appreciate the loan of additional tools from our colleague Terry Taylor.
A R Y
Thank you to Orrin Lundgren for his precise illustrations that shine as a guiding beacon.
Our deepest thanks go to Stewart O’Shields for producing the gorgeous photographs that
T IE IVI P O
grace these pages, and to Stacey Budge for styling an elegant book.
Nathalie Mornu and Suzanne J. E. Tourtillott

S O
JEWELRY
Index
Acknowledgments, 126 Jump rings, 13; making and using, 18-19
WIRE
Anvils, 17 Knitting, 22-23
Beads, 8-9 Links, making, 20-21
&
Bead loop links, 20 Loops, making and using, 20-21
BEAD
Bracelets, 35-38, 41-42, 46-47, 52-53, Mandrels, 16
57-58, 76-77, 86-87, 98-99,
Necklaces, 54-56, 59-60, 64-70, 73-75,
120-122
CONTEMPORARY
83-85, 90-92, 95-97,102-103,
Brooches, 30-31,39-40, 43-45, 78-80 108-109,115-119
Chains, 13 Needle files, 14
Chokers. See Necklaces Pendants, 32-34,110-112
Clasps, 12 Pin backings, 12
Crochet, 22-23 Pins. See Brooches
Drills, eggbeater, 17 Pin vises, 15
Earrings, 24-25, 28-29, 48-49, 61-63, Pliers, 14-15,17

68-75, 81-85, 88-89,100-101,
Polishing, 22
104-107,115-117
Rings, 26-27, 50-51,93-94,113-114
Ear posts. See Ear Wires
Spirals, making, 19
Ear wires, 12
Steel blocks, 17
Eye pins, 12
Wire, 10-11; gauge equivalents, 123;
Findings, 12-13
straightening, 18; twisting, 21;
Hammers, 17 wrapping, 18
Head pins, 12 Wire cutters, 14
Jig-forming links, 22 Wrapped bead loops, 21
Jigs, 16
Beaded Dragonfly Brooch,
page 78
CRAFTS/JEWELRY
contemporary
Bead & Wire Jewelry
A Fresh, Inventive
Approach to Bead
& Wire Jewelry
There's never
been a better
time to create
sophisticated,
chic jewelry,
thanks to the many wonderful beads and
types of wire available and to the creative
minds of the top designers in the craft.
A range of styles is reflected in 43 projects,
which include a pair of filigree-inspired
earrings with far-Eastern flair and an exotic
bangle that showcases a row of tiny beads,
held in place with fluid silver wire coils.
Gleaming, sparkling, and simply beautiful,
the contemporary pieces in this collection
are distinct from the jewelry typically made
with beads and wire.
ISBN-13: 576-l-S7550-7Q0-t
ISBN-10: 1-57550-700-6
5 2 4 9 5
9 781579 907006

Contemporary Bead & Wire Jewelry

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< ^ A Lark Jewelry Book

Nathalie Mornu & Suzanne J.E. Tourtillott

Stacey Budge Includes index.

© 2006, Lark Books

All rights reserved

Beaded Channel Ring,

Bead and Wire Basics 8

Temple Earrings 24 Beaded Dragonfly Broooh 78

Spring Blossom Ring 26 Follies Chandeliers 81 ■

Whisper Drops 28 icy Drops Neoklace and Earrings 83

Silver Flow Brooch 30 Stargazer Armband 86

Caught-in-Honey Pendant 32 Festive Spiral Earrings 88

Wandering Gypsy Bracelet 35 Leaping Copper Collar 90

Sante Fe Cuff 41 River Dance Bracelet 98

Sassy Pin 43 Lantern Earrings 100

Mardi Gras Bracelet 46 Cleopatra’s Collar 102

Pearly Spirally Post Earrings 48 Bollywood Dreams 104

Hypnosis Ring 50 Confetti Hoops 106

Amber Arc Bracelet 52 Venetian Reverie Neoklaoe 108

Vortex Neoklace 54 Flame Pendant 110

Celtic Crystal Bracelet 57 Pearl-Set Ring 113

Lucky Necklace 59 Fiesta Necklaoe and Earrings 115

Love Knot Chandeliers 61 Opulence Necklace 118

Odyssey Necklace 64 Jellyroll Bracelet 120

Anemone Choker 66 Key to Wire Gauges 123

Turquoise Twists Necklace About the Designers 124

A bead’s “personality” is defined by its shape, material, translucency, and surface

—Nathalie Mornu and Suzanne J. E. Tourtillott

Follies Chandeliers, page 81

Focai beads Clockwise from top left: Bead caps

Colored wire comes in a

In addition to the plain round variety,

Festive Spiral Earrings, page 88

Clasps, Pins, and Such

on any of the projects In this book, but

sometimes need pin backings. Beads are

wire with one flattened end to stop the

Machine-made chain and

Round-nose pliers are essential for making

The basic tool kit contains (from top): wire

The tools shown on these two pages are used

Tool Kit Additions

Links and Loops

nice and consistent, see the Same-Sized

Often, all the beads in a project are

fingers, so as to make it easier to work

The silhouette of these

22 bi-cone glass beads in various MAKE 2.

Pair up the wires and wrap the

armature, leaving a little space between

18 sterling silver seed beads MAKE 2.

2 sterling silver ear wires

Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make two

4 Hang all three elements on an ear

4 round glass beads, 5 mm diameter Straighten the wire. Make a loop on

Shape the wire to match figure 1,

To make the hook for the brooch,

4 Use round-nose pliers to bend

Masking tape Place the four 22-gauge wires

Wandering Gypsy Bracelet